CHAPTER II

=DINING-ROOM CONVENIENCES=

ROLLER TRAY WAGON

An efficient and convenient table placed on casters and wheels and

comprising a china closet, drawer for silverware, serving table, and

roller tray all in one. This device is invaluable to the housekeeper

who does her own work. It saves her many steps in the preparation and

the serving of her meals. While she is entertaining at a luncheon, it

takes the place of a maid, since the refreshments can be prepared,

arranged on the wagon, and rolled out at the appointed time. The prices

of a tea wagon made in wicker or some expensive wood are very high, but

one like the following illustration can be made at a nominal cost, or

it can be made of dry goods boxes for even less.

MATERIALS:

26’ white pine.

1 piece of jack chain No. 14, 18” long, to support top.

1 pair 1½” (butt) hinges to hold top.

12 No. 5 screws, ¾”, to fasten hinges.

½ lb. 5-penny box nails.

2 brass hand bolts to fasten on drawer.

8 No. 10 screws, 2½”, to fasten legs to bottom shelf.

2 furniture casters to put on legs.

2 swivel or baby carriage wheels.

DIMENSIONS:

_Top_: 1 piece 1” thick × 16½” wide × 26½” long.

_Sides_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 5” wide × 33½” long, for front and

back of body.

_Ends_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 5” wide × 13” long, for top of frame.

_Handles_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 1” wide × 15” long.

_Bottom_: 1 piece 1” thick × 13” wide × 24½” long.

_Legs_: 4 pieces 1½” thick × 1½” wide × 32” long.

_Ends_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 3½” wide × 12” long, allowing 1” on

each end for tenon.

_Drawer_: 1 piece 1” thick × 1½” wide × 23½” long, for foundation

of drawer.

[Illustration]

_Cleats_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 1” wide × 14” long, to support the

drawer.

1 piece 1” thick × 2½” wide × 23½” long, to be used as front to

drawer.

1 piece ½” thick × 2½” wide × 23½” long, to be used as back of

drawer.

2 pieces ½” thick × 2½” wide × 13½” long, to be used as side of

drawer.

1 piece ½” thick × 15” wide × 23½” long, to be used as bottom

of drawer.

1 piece ½” thick × 2½” wide × 3½” long, to be used as partition

in drawer.

_Shelf_: 1 piece 1” thick × 15” wide × 26½” long, to be used as

bottom of shelf.

_Braces_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 1½” wide × 12” long, to support ends

of shelf.

_Brackets_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 8” wide × 8” long, to be used as a

support for wheel.

[Illustration: Roller tray wagon, including compartment for china and a

drawer for silver and linen]

DIRECTIONS:

Take the 2 sides (1” × 5” × 33½”) and round each end in the

shape of a half circle, boring a 1” hole in each end of side

piece to hold handles (1” × 1” × 15”). Fit bottom on inside of

box and nail it. Mortise 3½” from the top of the legs to fit

cross pieces, 1” × 3½” × 12”. Make a ¼” mortise on the legs 9”

from the bottom for the support of the bottom shelf. Measure

2½” from the top of the leg to put tenon for the front drawer

support. Construct the opposite end of the table in the same

way. The upper top of table, showing the lid and handle, should

be fastened to top after the table is made. In making the frame

for the drawer, 2½” deep × 13½” wide × 23½” long, nail the front

and back to the sides. Then nail the bottom of the drawer to

the inside of this frame with one partition nailed crosswise

the center of the drawer. Place handles on the front of the

drawer about 3” from each end. Screw on the 2 pieces placed 9”

from bottom of the leg, with 2½” No. 10 screws. Cut the bottom

shelf out 1½” at each corner, fit to the legs, and screw. This

shelf must be stationary. Brackets, 1” × 8” × 8”, are screwed

on at one end of the shelf to be used as supports to which the

wheels are fastened. The drawer may be used for silverware

and to keep the linen. The side used for silverware should be

lined with felt or outing. The table should be well dressed by

sandpapering, staining, and polishing it. Do not varnish it

because this does not make so attractive a table as the mission

stain.

SIDEBOARD

(MADE OF DRY GOODS BOXES)

A unique article made of dry goods boxes, which may be used in the

dining room as a sideboard or in the kitchen as a cupboard. Two dry

goods boxes are joined together to make the lower section, one end

on each box being removed to be used as shelves in the sideboard.

The upper section with its three shelves is made from pieces of

other boxes. On two of the shelves brass hooks are arranged at equal

distances apart, on which the cups hang. A groove may be made under

the lower shelf and on the top shelf, in which the small plates and

saucers rest. The two drawers, made according to dimensions and out

of pieces of boxes, can be lined with felt or outing flannel to hold

the silverware. Attractive curtains may be made of some suitable

material and hung in front of the upper section. This is especially an

interesting problem for boys in a school to work out.

MATERIALS:

3 large boxes for lower and upper sections of sideboard.

3 small boxes to be used for drawers.

2 pairs 1½” (butt) hinges to fasten doors.

½ lb. 6-penny nails to build sideboard.

2 metal knobs to be used on lower doors.

24 brass cup and saucer hooks.

2 hand bolts to be used on front of drawers.

Sandpaper and stain.

DIMENSIONS: Lower Section:

_Body_: 2 boxes 13” deep × 12½” wide × 26” long.

_Shelves_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 12” wide × 24” long.

_Cleats_: 4 pieces ½” thick × ¾” wide × 12” long, to be used under

the shelves.

_Doors_: 4 pieces ¾” thick × 2” wide × 26” long, to be used for

upright pieces.

4 pieces ¾” thick × 2” wide × 8” long, to be used as crosspieces.

2 pieces ½” thick × 9” wide × 23” long, to be used as panels.

_Legs_: 4 pieces ½” thick × 2¾” wide × 36” long.

4 pieces ½” thick × 2½” wide × 36” long.

[Illustration]

Upper Section:

_Body_: 1 box 5” deep × 18” wide × 26” long.

2 small boxes 5” deep × 12” wide × 18” long.

_Drawer_: 1 box 5” deep × 18” wide × 24” long.

DIRECTIONS:

Boxes which can be most easily converted into the desired

sections must be selected. Two boxes (13” × 12½” × 26”) are

joined together to form the body of the lower section of the

sideboard. Remove the ends of the boxes, to be used as shelves,

using the side of a larger box for the top of this section.

The shelves are fastened in by 4 cleats (½” × ¾” × 12”) nailed

crosswise the partition and the sides of the section. Four

strips (½” × 2¾” × 36”) and four strips (½” × 2¼” × 36”) are

taken from the third box to make the legs of the cabinet. The

doors are fastened on with hinges, using two metal knobs in

front of the doors to open them. The foundation of the upper

section is made of a box (5” deep × 18” × 26”). The three

crosspieces used as shelves are made from the two small boxes

(5” × 12” × 18”). Make the drawer of a box (5” × 18” × 24”),

putting a partition through the center of the box and on the

inside if two drawers be desired. Place two hand bolts on the

front of the drawer. Sandpaper, stain, and polish the sideboard.

[Illustration]

SCREEN

[Illustration]

A screen is useful in many ways in the home. It adds a great deal to

the appearance of a bedroom. By putting it around the bed one may often

avoid draughts. In the dining room it is indispensable in the front

of a serving table while the meal is going on. The illustration above

shows a two-panelled screen which may be easily made in the home, or

it furnishes good material for a woodwork problem to be used in the

school. It is made of oak and covered with burlap. By adding to the

number of pieces the third panel may be made with ease.

MATERIALS:

3 feet of oak.

¼ lb. 8-penny nails to be used in making frame.

3 1” (butt) hinges, with screws, to join panels together.

1 box of brass-headed tacks to fasten burlap to frame.

Sandpaper and stain.

3½ yds. burlap to cover panels.

DIMENSIONS:

_Frame_: 4 pieces 1” thick × 1” wide × 5’ long, to be used for

upright pieces.

6 pieces 1” thick × 1” wide × 2’ long, to be used for crosspieces.

DIRECTIONS:

Measure and saw the pieces according to required dimensions. Cut

the joints and nail the three crosspieces to the two upright

pieces. Make the other panel in the same way and join the two

together with the three hinges. Sandpaper, stain, and polish the

frame. After it has dried thoroughly, cover it with the burlap

on the outside, tacking this on with the brass-headed tacks.

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