=PORCH EQUIPMENT=
ICELESS REFRIGERATOR NO. 1
Country homes without ice houses and too far from town to have access
to manufactured ice may have an iceless refrigerator as a good
substitute. This convenience comprises a simple wooden frame with a
covering of canton flannel, burlap, Indian-head cloth or linen crash
made to fit so that little air is admitted into it. Wicks made of the
same material as the cover are tacked on top of each side of the cover
and extend over into the pan of water sitting on top of the frame. This
water is taken up by the wicks and carried down on the sides of the
cover by capillary attraction when evaporation takes place, drawing
the heat from the inside and lowering the temperature. The more rapid
the evaporation, the lower the temperature. Tests have shown that if
the refrigerator is kept in a place where the air circulates around it
freely, a temperature of 50 degrees Fahrenheit may be obtained.
MATERIALS:
40’ of white pine.
1 pair of 1½” (butt) hinges to fasten the door.
1 2” gate hook to close screen door.
½ lb. 5-penny nails to build frame.
3½ yds. wire screening to cover frame.
4 sq. ft. sheet zinc to make shelves.
1 pt. white paint.
1 can white enamel.
1 square pan for top of refrigerator.
1 large pan for bottom.
Sandpaper.
2 cards of snap hooks and eyes to put on cover.
5 yds. white canton flannel.
DIMENSIONS:
_Frame_: 4 pieces ½” thick × 3” wide × 48” long, for upright
pieces.
16 pieces 1” thick × 1” wide × 16” long, to be used as
crosspieces for top, bottom, and shelves.
_Door_: 2 pieces ½” thick × 3” wide × 39” long, for upright
pieces.
2 pieces 1” thick × 1” wide × 16” long, for crosspieces.
[Illustration]
DIRECTIONS:
Make the frame 3½’ high with twelve crosspieces tacked to the
four posts, nailing the first 4 strips 9” from the bottom of
the frame, and the remaining 8 strips about 11” apart. An 18½”
square frame is made of wood and nailed on top of the posts. The
corners of this square are mitered or lapped over and tacked
together. Use a biscuit pan to fit in top of the square to hold
the water. The whole refrigerator should stand in a larger pan
which catches the drippings from the cover and keeps away the
insects. The screen door is made 39” long × 16” wide, which is
joined to the frame with hinges and fastens with a hook. Three
movable shelves with perforations in them are made of zinc.
Cover the whole frame with wire screening to protect it from the
flies. When the frame is finished it should be painted white
and enameled. This will permit of its being washed every day. A
covering of white canton flannel is made to fit the screen, with
the smooth side out, care being taken that the cover comes to
the lower edge of the frame. The wicks are made half the width
of the sides and tacked on the top edge of each side. These
must be long enough to extend 3” over into the water. Strips of
canton flannel 2” wide are tacked all around the sides and the
top of the frame, and the eyes are sewed on these. White tape
may be used for this purpose if more convenient. Sew one row of
hooks on the edge of the covering near the latch and the other
just opposite the opening, with the hem to extend far enough
over on each side to cover crack at the edge of door. This
permits the door to be opened without unfastening the hooks,
keeping out the warm outside air and at the same time retaining
the cool air inside the refrigerator. Hook the covering around
the top also. Place the refrigerator in a shady place where the
air will circulate around it freely. Keep the wicks in a supply
of fresh water in the top pan. The water is taken down the sides
by capillary attraction, and when evaporation takes place the
heat is taken from the inside thereby lowering the temperature.
[Illustration]
[Illustration:
First View Second View Third View
Iceless refrigerator]
ICELESS REFRIGERATOR NO. 2
Another type of iceless refrigerator which appears more crude can
be made at a cost of $1.80. In this a cotton sack is used for the
covering. This refrigerator has proved more satisfactory than one would
suppose. The butter and milk from several cows has been kept in a model
of this type at ten degrees cooler than the outside air. It might be
well to use cotton flannel for the covering instead of ducking because
when the cloth is wet evaporation takes place more rapidly.
MATERIALS:
24½’ yellow pine.
5½ yds. canton flannel.
15 10-penny nails.
1 No. 2 galvanized tub.
DIMENSIONS:
_Stem_: 1 piece 2” thick × 4” wide × 5’ long.
_Shelves:_ 2 pieces 1” thick × 32” wide × 32” long.
1 piece 1” thick × 20” wide × 20” long.
_Supports_: 2 pieces 2” thick × 4” wide × 18” long to be used as
braces for the foundation.
_Cleats_: 4 pieces 2” thick × 4” wide × 30” long to support shelves.
[Illustration]
DIRECTIONS:
Nail the piece (2” × 4” × 18”) on the side of the stem making it
even with the bottom piece. Saw a 2” base out on the side of the
stem and nail the other piece measuring 2” × 4” × 18”. Measure
25” from the bottom of the stem and nail on 2 cleats to support
the shelf. Cut space in the center of piece (1” × 32” × 32”)
large enough to fit the stem and nail it to the cleats, thus
making the first shelf. From this point measure 20” and nail 2
cleats on the stem to support the second shelf (1” × 32” × 32”).
Measure 13” from the top of the stem and nail on shelf (1” ×
20” × 20”) after cutting an opening (2” × 4”) in the center of
shelf. The curtain is made of 4 widths of the canton flannel
measuring 66” in length with a draw string put at the top and
bottom of the curtain. This makes the refrigerator dust and fly
proof.
UMBRELLA STAND
A good problem to be used in woodwork classes in the school or to be
made by boys in the home. It will be found appropriate and useful in
the reception hall or on the porch. It is built of dry goods boxes,
with a five-cent pan used in the bottom to catch the drippings from the
umbrellas.
MATERIALS:
1 box 9” deep × 12” wide × 30” high.
¼ lb. eight-penny nails to make the frame.
1 small round tin pan to fit in bottom of the stand.
Sandpaper and stain.
[Illustration]
DIMENSIONS:
4 pieces ¼” thick × 2½” wide × 30” long, to be used as upright
pieces.
4 pieces ¼” thick × 2¼” wide × 30” long, to be used as upright
pieces.
6 pieces ½” thick × 3” wide × 12” long, to be used as crosspieces.
6 pieces ½” thick × 3” wide × 11” long, to be used as crosspieces.
_Bottom_: 1 piece 12” thick × 12” wide × 12” long.
[Illustration]
DIRECTIONS:
Make three boxes of the six pieces (½” × 3” × 12”) and six
pieces (½” × 3” × 11”), putting the bottom, 12” square, on the
bottom box to be used as foundation of the frame. Make a hole
in this bottom large enough to hold a round tin pan. This hole
should be cut before nailing the piece on the bottom of the box.
Nail the four long pieces (measuring ¼” × 2¼” × 30”) on the end
of the three boxes, placing the boxes seven inches apart on
the frame. Nail four pieces (measuring ¼” × 2½” × 30”) on the
ends of the boxes to extend one-fourth inch over the first four
strips which were nailed on the boxes. Sandpaper, stain, and
polish.
BLACKING BOX
A necessary and useful home convenience made of a box, with a cover
made in two sections and joined with hinges. It is a time-saver to
the busy housewife who has to go so often in search for blacking and
polish before she can get the children ready for school. It serves as a
reminder to the busy farmer who is disposed to go to town or to church
before giving his shoes a dressing.
[Illustration]
MATERIALS:
1 box.
½ lb. six-penny nails to construct box.
1 pair 1½” (butt) hinges to fasten top.
Sandpaper and stain.
DIMENSIONS:
_Body_: 5¾” deep × 13¾” wide × 14¼” long (inside measurements).
_Top_: 2 pieces ½” thick × 8” wide × 6¼” long.
_Legs_: 4 pieces ⅜” thick × 1⅜” wide × 13¼” long.
4 pieces ⅜” thick × 1¾” wide × 13¼” long.
DIRECTIONS:
Remove the cover from box (5¾” deep × 13¾” × 14¼”) and nail the
legs on, making them seven inches longer than the outside depth
of the box. Nail one half of the cover on top of box, allowing
it to project evenly all round the edge of the box. Fasten the
other half of the cover to this half with hinges. Sandpaper,
stain, and polish.
[Illustration]
TOWEL ROLLER
A towel roller built so simply that any boy on the farm would take
pleasure in working out the problem. It is much easier to keep a clean
towel in the right place when the proper place is provided for the
towel to be kept. This convenience should be a joy to every tired
farmer when he comes in to partake of a meal. Again, the tendency of
all children to throw the towels about the place is a great nuisance
to the housewife. This rack provides that the towel be sewed together
and placed on the roller, which is then slipped into the groove made to
hold it.
[Illustration]
MATERIALS:
3’ of poplar.
¼ lb. 8-penny nails.
Sandpaper and stain.
DIMENSIONS:
_Foundation_: 1 piece ¾” thick × 5” wide × 24” long, to which the
brackets are nailed.
_Brackets_: 2 pieces 5” thick × 5” wide × 5” long.
_Rod_: 1 piece 1¼” thick × 1¾” wide × 24” long.
DIRECTIONS:
The brackets are made any desired shape, with a hole a half-inch
in diameter bored in the centre of each piece. A slit is cut
in one bracket from the hole to the top for the end of the rod
to slip in and out. Round the piece (1¼” × 1¾” × 24”) for the
rod. At each end cut a tenon one inch in diameter. Nail the end
pieces to the board (¾” × 5” × 24”). Insert the rod into the
hole in the one end piece and slip it into the slit at the other
end. Sandpaper, stain, and polish.
PORCH SWING
An inexpensive mission style swing made of oak with space long enough
for two to sit in and broad enough to be used for lounging purposes. A
pad made of burlap and stuffed with an old discarded quilt will add to
the comfort of the swing.
DIMENSIONS:
_Frame_: 4 pieces, ¾” thick × 3” wide × 43” long for rails in frame.
2 pieces, ¾” thick × 3” wide × 22” long for ends of frame.
_Posts_: 2 pieces, 1½” thick × 2” wide × 19” long for front posts.
4 pieces 1½” thick × 2” wide × 23½” long for arms and back posts.
_Slats_: 14 pieces ¼” thick × 3” wide × 14” long for back and end slats.
16 pieces ½” thick × 3” wide × 20” long for slats in seat.
_Cleats_: 2 pieces ½” thick × 2” wide × 48” long.
DIRECTIONS:
Mortise the end posts for the back and the front, also arm
posts. Mortise the back and front and end rails of the frame to
fit the end posts. Nail and glue them into position. Round the
edges of the seat slats and nail to cleats on the front and back
of the frame. Mortise the back and end slats, fitting them into
the rails and frame and fasten with strong glue. Use support
made of iron and fastened to the seat with screws to give
strength to the mortises formed at the arms and front posts. The
chains to suspend the swing are fastened to holes made in these
iron supports. Make the back of the swing first, then the ends
and front, nailing the seat slats in after the glue has fastened
the mortises securely together.
[Illustration]