[Illustration: CONVENIENT ARRANGEMENT FOR KITCHEN DEVICES]
HOME LABOR SAVING
DEVICES
BY
RHEA C. SCOTT
INSTRUCTOR IN HOME DEMONSTRATION WORK AT GEORGE PEABODY COLLEGE
FOR TEACHERS. NASHVILLE, TENN.;
FORMERLY ASSISTANT STATE DEMONSTRATION AGENT IN LOUISIANA.
ILLUSTRATED BY
MRS. R. E. GAMBLE
SECOND EDITION, REVISED.
[Illustration]
PHILADELPHIA AND LONDON
J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY
COPYRIGHT, 1917, BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY
COPYRIGHT, 1918, BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY
_Electrotyped and Printed by J. B. Lippincott Company
At the Washington Square Press, Philadelphia, U. S. A._
TO THE WOMEN AND GIRLS OF THE FARM, LOVERS OF THE
FIELDS, AND FRIENDS OF THE FLOWERS, WHOSE HEARTS
HEAR THE CALL AND WHOSE HANDS SEEK THE SKILL TO
MAKE THE RURAL HOME A PLACE OF LIGHT, OF HEALTH,
OF BEAUTY, THIS LITTLE VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY
DEDICATED
PREFACE
The point of view from which this manual was written is indicated in
the introduction.
The aims are to increase efficiency in the farm home and to satisfy the
growing demand for useful information in the country schools.
This is done by giving suggestions and directions for practical work to
be done in the home and at school.
Throughout the country to-day many rural schools are expressing a
desire to add to their present school curricula courses which are
practical. The ideal kept in mind during the preparation of this manual
has been to supply that need and at the same time to make it possible
for any woman to use the book in her own home.
The limitations in the size have caused many omissions. It is the
intention of the author to enlarge upon this material as the demand
increases. Ideas and suggestions from other States have been dominant
throughout, thus carrying out the true demonstration point of view.
THE AUTHOR.
January, 1917.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Acknowledgment and thanks are gratefully given to the following persons
for suggestions, use of material, and corrections:
Miss Ola Powell, United States Department of Agriculture, Washington,
D. C., for making this little volume possible by inspirational
suggestions furnished throughout the preparation of the manual and
especially for the use of her two models of jelly strainers and
illustrations on cheese making.
Mr. O. B. Martin, United States Department of Agriculture, Washington,
D. C., for his most valuable suggestions and sympathetic interest
during the entire preparation of the material.
The United States Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C., for
photographs of roller tray wagon, water works system, and ideas
obtained from circular letter prepared by Miss Mary E. Creswell and
Miss Ola Powell, of the States Relations Service, Office of Extension
Work in the South.
Mr. Harry M. Lamon, Poultry Division of the Bureau of Animal Industry,
United States Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C., for
illustrations of poultry house, dry mash hopper and chicken coop, and
the use of information in Farmers’ Bulletin, No. 574.
Mr. B. H. Rawl, Chief of the Dairy Division, Bureau of Animal Industry;
United States Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C., and Mr. J.
H. McClain and other specialists in the Dairy Division for assistance
in taking the pictures and for criticisms and corrections of the
material.
Mr. N. E. D. Talcott, State Agent in Poultry Club Work in Virginia, for
the use of his dry mash hopper and oat-sprouting rack.
Dr. John W. Wayland, State Normal School, Harrisonburg, Va., for his
appropriate dedication.
Miss Elizabeth C. Cleveland, Head of the English Department, State
Normal School, Harrisonburg, Va., for reading and correcting manuscript.
Mrs. K. C. Blythe, Leesburg, Va., for permission to use a dish drainer.
Mr. C. E. Hanson, A. & M. College, College Station, Texas, for his
interest and helpful suggestions.
Miss Emma Chandler, State Agent in Home Demonstration Work, Stillwater,
Okla., for the use of iceless refrigerator No. 2 and directions for
making same.
Mr. Thos. H. Fullan, Alabama Polytechnic Institute, Auburn, Ala., for
the use of his milking stool and suggestions for making the shower bath.
Mrs. Helen Brown Wolcott, State Agent in Home Demonstration Work,
Lexington, Ky., for ideas for making the dish rack.
To “The Country Gentleman” for illustrations of cheese making.
Also others who have contributed to this volume.
CONTENTS
PAGE
INTRODUCTION 13-14
CHAPTER I
KITCHEN CONVENIENCES 15
Vegetable Paring Table, Wall Cabinet for the Kitchen,
Ironing Board, Jelly Strainer, No. 1 and No. 2, Dish
Drainer, Dish Rack, Coal Box, Wood Box, Fireless
Cooker, Home-made Cook Stove Drier.
CHAPTER II
DINING ROOM CONVENIENCES 43
Roller Tray Wagon, Sideboard, Screen.
CHAPTER III
PORCH EQUIPMENT 51
Iceless Refrigerator, No. 1 and No. 2, Umbrella Stand,
Blacking Box, Towel Roller, Porch Swing.
CHAPTER IV
MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT 67
Dustless Mop, Folding Canning Table, Fly Trap,
Garbage Barrel, Scrubbing Chariot, Sewing Screen,
Shower Bath, Practical Waterworks System.
CHAPTER V
POULTRY DEVICES 84
Poultry House, Nests, Egg Tester, Dry Mash Hopper,
No. 1 and No. 2, Rack for Oat-Sprouting Trays, Dust
Boxes, Drinking Vessel, Chicken Brooder.
CHAPTER VI
DAIRY DEVICES 99
Butter-making, Butter Worker, Milking Stool,
Cheese-making Equipment.
APPENDIX
Fundamentals in Woodworking, Suggested List of Tools,
List of Publications for Supplementary Reading.
INDEX 117
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
CONVENIENT ARRANGEMENT FOR KITCHEN DEVICES _Frontispiece_
AN EXHIBIT OF HOME-MADE LABOR SAVING DEVICES 14
HOME-MADE DRIERS READY FOR USE 36
ASSEMBLED MATERIAL FOR BUILDING A FIRELESS COOKER 40
ROLLER TRAY WAGON, INCLUDING COMPARTMENT FOR CHINA AND
A DRAWER FOR SILVER AND LINEN 44
ICELESS REFRIGERATOR 54
SEWING SCREEN 78
A PORTABLE POULTRY HOUSE, SHOWING THE EXTERIOR AND INTERIOR 84
CHURNING OPERATIONS 104
DRAWING THE CURD 108
PRESSING THE CURD 108
MOULDING THE CHEESE 109
NECESSARY EQUIPMENT USED IN CHEESE-MAKING 109
INTRODUCTION
BY PRESIDENT JULIAN A. BURRUSS
State Normal School for Women, Harrisonburg, Va.
No phase of modern social development has received more attention in
recent years than that of our rural population. Advances have been
striking along all lines of country life. It would, however, be too
much to say that the interests of women and their work in the home have
received the attention properly due them. Frequently farmers of the
highest type will equip their farms with the latest and best implements
and machinery for their work and yet will fail to provide their homes
with equipment equally as essential and desirable for the work of the
women members of their households. Women’s organizations and the agents
of the Home Demonstration Work, together with other agencies, have done
much to direct attention along this very important line and in many
communities labor-saving devices of a most ingenious character have
been developed.
What is good for one busy housewife is not too good for another, and it
is a good rule to push a good thing along for the benefit of others.
With this in view the author has gathered together numerous inventions
of home-made devices of a labor-saving and efficiency-increasing
kind, and describes them in this little volume so that all to whom
it may come may have the opportunity to make such contrivances, or
modifications of them, for their own use. In doing this, the author has
not merely had in her mind her own State, but has sought to recognize
the viewpoints of women in as many other States as possible.
The author is peculiarly fitted for the task she has set herself. As
Assistant State Agent for Home Demonstration Work in Virginia, under
the direction of the United States Department of Agriculture, and
as supervisor and community worker for a number of years in various
rural districts before assuming the duties of her present position,
she has had abundant facilities for becoming familiar with the
conditions prevailing in country homes. Having maintained sympathetic
relationships with country women for many years, she knows their
problems and their needs, and she is also familiar with the sources
from which help may be drawn.
There can be no real improvement in social life in the country unless
there is leisure time to be devoted to uplifting, cultural, and
recreational purposes. The only way in which this may be obtained is
by means of labor-saving and time-saving appliances. The articles here
described are intensely practical and may be readily made in any home
at a nominal cost. To make two blades of grass grow where one formerly
grew is certainly a very valuable achievement; but to save muscles and
nerves, and to give time and energy for mental and social and spiritual
development, is far more valuable and desirable. If the information
given in this book serves to lighten the burden and shorten the daily
drudgery of a single housewife, its publication will be justified; and
it should find a cordial reception in a multitude of homes.
[Illustration: AN EXHIBIT OF HOME-MADE LABOR SAVING DEVICES BY THE
CANNING CLUB AT THE STATE NORMAL SCHOOL, HARRISONBURG, VA.]
HOME LABOR SAVING
DEVICES
CHAPTER I
=KITCHEN CONVENIENCES=
VEGETABLE PARING TABLE
A convenient kitchen table made of poplar and covered with zinc with
an opening in the center through which the parings of vegetables or
the scraping of dishes may be put into a pail sitting on the lower
shelf. This saves soiling the floor and many steps while preparing
the vegetables for cooking. It should be remembered that the pail
underneath must be removed and the contents emptied into the garbage
barrel after each using. It is not a garbage pail and should in no
sense be used as such. Above the table hooks on which hang many smaller
cooking utensils, such as paring knives, graters, spoons, scissors, or
can openers, are all arranged to accommodate the housekeeper.
MATERIALS:
12’ poplar.
¼ lb. 6-penny nails to construct table.
1 piece of sheet zinc, 12” × 30”, to cover the top of table.
DIMENSIONS:
_Top_: 1 piece 1” thick × 18” wide × 26” long.
_Shelf_: 1 piece 1” thick × 10” wide × 32” long.
_Legs_: 4 pieces 1½” thick × 1½” wide × 24” long.
_Cleats_: 4 pieces 1” thick × 1” wide × 14” long.
DIRECTIONS:
After cutting legs, nail on cleats even with the top edge,
measuring 14” for the bottom cleat. Measure 2” from the ends
and sides of the top and nail on the legs. Measure 7¾” from
the right-hand end and 9” from the side and make a hole 8” in
diameter. Nail the bottom shelf at an equal distance from the
bottom of the legs.
[Illustration]
WALL CABINET FOR THE KITCHEN
(MADE FROM DRY GOODS BOXES)
A comfort to the housewife is a kitchen cabinet, containing different
compartments for spices and such accessories necessary in cooking. It
is made of boxes and should be put at some place convenient to the
work table so the woman will not have to move to get these things
when preparing a meal. It surely fulfils the old adage, “A place for
everything and everything in its place.”
MATERIALS:
1 box of the required dimensions to build the body.
12 salt boxes used as drawers in the compartments.
⅓ lb. 8-penny nails to be used in the construction of the cabinet.
12 round-head screws to be used as knobs.
Sandpaper and stain.
DIMENSIONS:
_Body_: 1 box 4¾” deep × 13¼” wide × 18¼” long.
_Shelves_: 4 pieces ⅜” thick × 4¾” wide × 12¼” long.
_Drawers_: 12 salt boxes, 4” × 4” × 4”.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
DIRECTIONS:
Remove the sides from the box, making them the exact length
of the inside of the box. Draw a line across the bottom and
the ends of the box about 2” from the edge of the sides. Nail
the sides to the bottom and the ends of the box about 2” from
the edge of the sides, with outside faces on pencil line.
Plane and sandpaper the edges until they are smooth. Nail the
shelves in at equal distances apart to make four compartments of
equal size. Place three of the salt boxes in each compartment.
Sandpaper, stain, and polish.
IRONING BOARD
This ironing board is a very great step saver. It is always ready and
in place. It is fastened to the wall at the most convenient place and
adjusted to suit the one who is to use it. When not in use it can be
folded up and hinged against the wall out of the way. The leg is hinged
to the ironing board and falls into position when the board is lifted.
Skirts may be easily ironed without changing the position of the leg.
MATERIALS:
8’ of pine.
3 3” plain steel (butt) hinges.
2½ doz. 1½” No. 12 flat-head screws.
2 yds. of white cotton flannel.
2½ yds. unbleached muslin.
2 pieces of cotton tape.
DIMENSIONS:
1 piece 1” thick × 14” wide × 3’ long to be used as top of board.
1 piece 1” thick × 4” wide × 10” long to be used as a board strip.
2 pieces 1” thick × 2” wide × 4” long to be fastened to the wall
to hold the board in position.
1 piece 1” thick × 4” wide × 14” long to be used as a wall strip.
1 piece 1” thick × 4” wide × 4’ long to be used as brace for board.
1 piece 1” thick × 4” wide × 8” long to be used as brace support.
DIRECTIONS:
Plane the top of the board (1” × 14” × 3’) on the smoothest
side. With a radius of 4½” lay out a semi-circle at the middle
of one end of the board as shown in illustration. This may be
done with a compass or with a string and pencil. Make the other
end of the board square with one edge. Two feet from each end
make a mark on each edge and draw a straight line from each of
these marks tangent to the semi-circle. Saw along these lines,
smoothing the edges with the plane. Fasten the wall strip (1”
× 4” × 14”) to this top with 2 No. 3 (butt) hinges. Bore 3 ¼”
holes through the board strip (1” × 4” × 10”) and fasten it to
the bottom of the top at a distance of 34” from the wall strip.
The brace (1” × 4” × 4’) is fastened to the board strip with
one No. 3 (butt) hinge. ¾” holes are bored through the wall
strip and it is fastened at a convenient height to the wall
with 3 flat-head screws. After boring 3 ½” holes through the
brace support (1” × 4” × 8”) it is screwed to the wall with 3
flat-head screws. Place this support directly below the wall
strip and at such a distance from it to make the board level
when the brace is in position. Bore 2 ¼” holes in one of the
pieces measuring 1” × 2” × 4”, and one hole through the other
piece. Fold the board up against the wall and fasten the piece
with the two holes to the wall just a little to one side of the
board and 2’ above the wall strip. The other piece with one hole
is fastened to this piece to hold the ironing board in position.
[Illustration]
The covering may be made of cotton flannel or an old blanket.
Allow 2” on the sides and the end to be turned under after it
has been cut the shape of the board. This must be tacked
firmly and smoothly on the board. The ironing sheet may be made
of unbleached muslin or an old sheet. This is also cut the shape
of the board, allowing 4” on the sides and end for the hem.
Attach pieces of tape to the opposite sides about 10” apart to
tie the sheet on the board.
JELLY STRAINER NO. 1
An old chair is generally used to hang the jelly bag over while the
juice is dripping. As a substitute the device shown in the following
illustration is suggested as being more convenient and sanitary in
every way. It not only provides a place for the bag to hang, but it
also has a shelf on which the pan sits to catch the drippings from
the bag. The legs are adjustable; hence it is easily taken apart and
kept in a small space. This makes the strainer especially convenient
to the Canning Club Agent as she goes her daily rounds teaching the
housekeepers the art of jelly-making. It can be easily made at home and
at a little cost.
MATERIALS:
3’ poplar.
12 No. 10 screws, 2¼”, to fasten the adjustable legs to the
shelves.
8 No. 9 screws, 1”, to fasten braces to the top of strainer,
1 yd. white flannel for the jelly bag.
1 piece of white tape to make loops on bag.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
DIMENSIONS:
_Legs_: 4 pieces 1½” thick × 1½” wide × 31½” long.
_Shelves_: 4 pieces 1” thick × 1½” wide × 7” long to make the
upper shelf.
1 piece 1” thick × 15” wide × 15” long for lower shelf.
_Braces_: 4 pieces 1” thick × 2½” wide × 3” long to be cut into
4 equal triangles.
DIRECTIONS:
Bevel the tops of all 4 of the legs at an angle of 45°. Make the
upper shelf of the 4 pieces measuring 1” × 1½” × 7”. Measure
2¼” from the tops of the 4 legs and screw the upper shelf to
the legs at these points. A solid piece of wood with a hole in
the center may be used in making this shelf. Support this upper
shelf by screwing the four triangular braces (1” × 2½” × 3”)
in the corners of the shelf. Use the 8 1-inch No. 9 screws for
this purpose. Saw the lower shelf out 1½” on each corner and
screw it on the legs at a distance of 9” from the bottom of the
legs. Sandpaper but do not stain. Take a piece of flannel of the
desired size and make the jelly bag in the shape of a triangle.
Sew a loop of tape at each corner to hang the bag over the posts.
JELLY STRAINER, NO. 2
While this jelly strainer is unique and useful in its construction
it is not adjustable. It is made of poplar at a minimum cost. Around
the top edge are arranged little brass hooks. These are put at equal
distances apart. At the lower end of the trough two plugs are put, one
above the other, through which the jelly juice flows out into a pan
placed beneath the plugs.
[Illustration]
The jelly bag is made of an oblong piece of flannel with ivory rings
sewed around the edges so as to hang the bag on the brass hooks around
the top of the frame.
MATERIALS:
4’ of poplar.
4 No. 9 screws, 1½”, to fasten handles on the sides.
16 No. 10 screws, 2”, to fasten ends on the sides.
5 No. 10 screws, 1¼”, to fasten the sides together at the bottom.
14 brass cup hooks arranged around the top edges.
14 white ivory rings to be sewed on jelly bag.
1 yd. white flannel for jelly bag.
DIMENSIONS:
_Sides_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 12” wide × 15½” long.
_Ends_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 12½” wide × 17½” long.
_Handles_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 2½” wide × 4” long.
_Plugs_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 1” wide × 3” long.
DIRECTIONS:
Saw the two end pieces according to the illustration. Measure
6½” from the bottom of each end and cut them out ¼” to fit sides
(1” thick) placing the sides ¾” from the outer side of the end
pieces. Measure equal spaces from each side of the ends and put
the handles 1½” from the top edge. Bore two holes ¾” in diameter
near the bottom of the end to fit the plugs. Bevel the two
sides (1” × 12” × 15½”) at the bottom so as to make a tight and
neat joint. Screw the end pieces to the sides. Screw the brass
cup hooks at equal distances apart around the top edge of the
strainer.
[Illustration]
DISH DRAINER
The work of dish-washing is greatly reduced by the use of a dish
drainer. The dishes are carefully washed and arranged in the drainer,
and boiling water poured over them. When they are dry, they can be put
away or allowed to stand with a clean cloth thrown over them until
ready to use.
This dish drainer resembles a box in shape, put on legs, with slats
placed inside at equal distances apart, making the compartments to hold
the dishes. The space in front is made a little larger to accommodate
the irregular dishes. An experienced housewife will know that glassware
and silverware cannot be dried by this method. A hole is made in one
corner of the drainer through which the water drains off into a pail
which is kept under the corner.
MATERIALS:
16’ of white pine.
½ lb. of 4-penny nails for nailing slats in box.
½ lb. of 8-penny nails for nailing box on the legs.
4½’ of sheet zinc to cover the inside of drainer.
4” of half-galvanized pipe for drainage tube.
1 drainage pail.
Sandpaper.
1 can of white paint.
1 can of white enamel.
DIMENSIONS:
_Bottom_: 1 piece 1” thick × 24” wide × 26” long.
_Sides_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 8” wide × 26” long.
2 pieces 1” thick × 8” wide × 24” long.
_Legs_: 4 pieces 1” thick × 4” wide × 36” long, for back legs.
4 pieces 1” thick × 4” wide × 35” long, for front legs.
_Slats_: 2 pieces ¼” thick × 1” wide × 24” long.
6 pieces ¼” thick × 1” wide × 26” long.
DIRECTIONS:
Make a pine box which is 8” deep and 24” × 26” long. The joints
must be laid in white lead in order to make the drainer water
tight. Nail 2 slats ¼” thick × 1” wide × 24” long down flat
from the front to the back of the box at the outer edge. These
are used as supports for the other crosswise slats and also
allow the water to run under the slats. Nail 4 slats on these
supports, beginning 3¼” from the back of the box and making a
distance of 3¼” between each slat. This will leave a 9” space in
front of the box for the irregular dishes. The front legs are
made of the four pieces 1” thick × 4” wide × 35” long, and the
back legs are 1” thick × 4” wide × 36” deep. This slant provides
for the drainage. The drainer should be tipped a little to the
corner in which the drain pipe is placed. If zinc is to be used
for lining, it must be done before the slats are put into the
box.
[Illustration]
DISH RACK
A rack made of poplar, with several compartments to accommodate dishes
of different sizes.
The large platters are put in the largest upright spaces, the dinner
plates being arranged in the middle-sized spaces, with the smaller
plates and saucers in the top spaces. It may be placed at a convenient
place in the kitchen or dining room so as to save the housekeeper
unnecessary steps. Mortise and tenon joints will make a more
substantial rack but these are not necessary. The parts may be nailed
together. After joining the parts together, sandpaper, paint white and
enamel.
MATERIALS:
6½” poplar.
12 No. 6 nails to nail on the top.
45 No. 44 box nails for nailing on upright pieces.
50 No. 16 wire brads, ¾”, for nailing tenons in mortise.
2 No. 9 screws, 1½”, to screw the base on the rack.
Sandpaper for dressing the rack.
1 pt. white paint.
1 pt. enamel.
DIMENSIONS:
_Top_: 1 piece ¾” thick × 4½” wide × 33” long.
2 pieces ¾” thick × 1½” wide × 30” long.
_Bottom_: 2 pieces ¾” thick × 1½” wide × 30” long.
1 piece 1” thick × 2½” wide × 12” long for base.
_Middle_: 2 pieces ¾” thick × 1½” wide × 21” long.
_Ends_: 2 pieces ¾” thick × 1½” wide × 24” long.
_Crosspieces_: 2 pieces ¾” thick × 1½” wide × 3” long to be used
as top of rack.
2 pieces ¾” thick × 3” wide × 3” long to be used as bottom of
rack.
_Upright pieces_: 16 pieces ½” thick × ½” wide × 26” long to be
used as side pieces 8 on each side.
2 pieces ¾” thick × 1½” wide × 20½” long.
[Illustration: _Dish Rack_]
DIRECTIONS:
Mortise the two end pieces ¼”, to fit tenon. Nail the two
crosspieces, measuring (¾” × 1½” × 3”) to them. Make ¼” mortises
on the two top pieces (¾” × 3” × 3”). These mortises are made 3”
from the end and the two pieces nailed to crosspieces. Screw on
the bottom board (1” × 2½” × 12”) with 1½” No. 9 screws. Mortise
the 4 top and bottom pieces (¾” × 1½” × 30”) ½” from the top
and bottom and nail them lengthwise on the rack. The two middle
pieces (¾” × 1½” × 21”) are mortised and nailed 11” from the top
edge of the bottom piece. The upright pieces (¾” × 1½” × 20½”)
are nailed 9” from the left side. Nail the eight upright pieces
(½” × ½” × 26”) on each side with No. 4 box nails. The top piece
(¾” × 4½” × 33”) is nailed on the top of the rack. Sandpaper,
paint and enamel.
[Illustration]
COAL BOX
The construction of this box is both simple and convenient, and it
requires little space in the room to accommodate it. There are four
compartments in it. The back is divided equally to provide places for
the kindling and paper; the front space is used for coal, and while it
makes it more durable to line it with metal, this is not necessary.
There is a narrow opening in the front in which the cleaning materials
are kept--polish, brush, and stove rags. Stain or paint will make the
coal box more attractive.
MATERIALS:
27½’ of poplar.
3 pairs of 1½” (butt) hinges.
24 ¾” No. 8 screws for hinges.
2 lbs. 5-penny box nails.
3 screen door handles.
1 iron door button.
4 castors.
5 lbs. sheet metal.
DIMENSIONS:
_Top_: 1 piece 1” thick × 1’ 9¾” wide × 2’ 1½” long to be used as
level top.
_Front_: 1 piece 1” thick × 1’ 7” wide × 2’ 1½” long for the
slanting front.
_Bottom_: 1 piece 1” thick × 1’ 11½” wide × 2’ 10” long.
_Back_: 1 piece 1” thick × 2’ 1” wide × 1’ 11½” long to be used
as the back of the box.
_Ends_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 2’ 2” wide × 3’ long.
_Partitions_: 1 piece 1” thick × 21” wide × 1’ 11½” long to be
used as the partition in the back.
1 piece 1” thick × 2’ 2” wide × 1’ 11½” long to be used as the
slanting partition in the bottom of the coal box.
_Supports_: 1 piece ½” thick × ½” wide × 1’ 11½” long to be used
as a support at the back of the opening in the box to hold
door in place.
_Drawer_: 1 piece 1” thick × 1’ 1½” wide × 2’ 1½” long for the
front of the drawer.
1 piece 1” thick × 5” wide × 1’ 11½” long for the back of the
drawer.
1 piece 1” thick × 10” wide × 1’ 11½” for the top of the drawer.
[Illustration:]
DIRECTIONS:
Measure 1’ 9¾” from the back of the two end pieces (1” × 2’ 2” ×
3’). Cut the corners off from this point to make a slant which
will fit the door 1’ 7” long. Nail the back (1” × 1’ 11½” × 2’
1”) to the two end pieces at the straight edge. The bottom
piece (1” × 1’ 11½” × 2’ 10”) is then nailed to the back and
sides. Cut out a 4” × 1’ 11½” opening in the front piece (1”
× 1’ 11½” × 2’ 1½”) for the drawer and then nail the front to
the sides and bottom. Take the piece which has been cut out and
hinge it to the opening as shown in the illustration. Nail the
back and top partitions in this opening before the slanting
partition which divides this division from the coal bin is
put in. Measure 9” from the back of the coal box and put the
straight partition (1” × 21” × 1’ 11½”) in by nailing it to the
bottom and sides of the coal box. Then the slanting partition
(1” × 2’ 2” × 1’ 11½”) is nailed to the bottom and front edge
of the box as shown in the illustration. Cut an opening (9” ×
1’ 11½”) in the top (1” × 1’ 9¾” × 2’ 1½”) and then nail top on
the box, using the piece which is cut out for the door to the
opening. Hinge this piece on with one pair of 1½” (butt) hinges.
The door support (½” × ½” × 1’ 11½”) is nailed on the inside
of the back of the box. Bevel the piece (1” × 1’ 7” × 2’ 1½”)
for the slanting door. It must fit each edge as shown in the
illustration. Hinge this door at the upper edge of the top with
one pair of 1½” (butt) hinges. One screen door handle is put on
each opening to lift them. The four castors are placed on the
bottom of each corner of the box to make it more easily moved
about. Stain or paint the coal box.
[Illustration]
A HOME-MADE COOK STOVE DRIER
This apparatus is designed to use on a wood or coal stove, an oil
stove, or a gas range. It can be easily and inexpensively made at home.
MATERIALS:
12’ of poplar for the frame.
14 lbs. black sheet steel, 27 gauge, to cover frame.
9 sq. ft. galvanized wire cloth about ¼” mesh for shelves.
½ lb. 4-penny nails.
1 hook and eye to fasten door.
2 prs. small hinges for the door.
DIMENSIONS:
_Frame_: 4 pieces 1¼” × 1¼” × 23”.
_Sides_: 4 pieces 1¼” × 1¼” × 21”.
_Front_: 2 pieces 1¼” × 1¼” × 11”.
_Back_: 2 pieces 1¼” × 1¼” × 11”.
_Supports_: 6 pieces 1” × 2¼” × 23½”.
_Trays_: 12 pieces ¾” × ¾” × 20½”.
12 pieces ¾” × ¾” × 10½”.
DIRECTIONS:
The frame consists of four wooden posts (1¼” × 1¼” × 23”); four
side pieces (1¼” × 1¼” × 21”); two front pieces (1¼” × 1¼” ×
11”); and two back pieces (1¼” × 1¼” × 11”). To the posts are
lightly nailed on each side six strips (1” × 2¼” × 23½”). These
pieces serve as supports for the drying racks. The corners are
notched out as indicated in the drawing to allow the strips to
extend out to the outer wall of the drier.
For each side use a sheet of light weight sheet steel (23½” × 23”);
for the back a sheet (13½” × 23”); for the top a sheet (13½” ×
23½”). In the top piece an opening about 3” × 10” is cut about
four inches from the back edge to permit the escape of moist
air. It may be found at times that this ventilating opening is
too large. Then it may be partially closed by placing over it a
tin pan or other vessel.
For the bottom a sheet 13½” × 23½” is used. This sheet is
thoroughly perforated with holes to admit the warm air. Another
piece of sheet steel (A on the drawing) (7½” × 17½”) is provided
to make the heat spread more evenly. This piece rests on wires
above the bottom of the drier. These wires are put through small
holes punched in the side sheets (see B on drawing).
The door is made of heavier gauge sheet steel (13½” × 23”).
The legs are made of four pieces of sheet steel bent on an angle as
indicated in the drawing.
All the sheet steel parts may be tacked on the frame but the door,
which is secured by hinges.
The frames of the six trays are made of ¾” wood 10½” wide and 20½”
long. Make the bottom of the trays of wire cloth (20½” × 10½”).
This is tacked on the underside of the frame of the trays.
By referring to the drawing it will be observed that the bottom tray
is shoved back as far as it will go; the next tray above is pulled as
far front as the door will admit; the next tray is shoved back and so
on with each tray shoving one to the back and pulling the other to the
front. The object of this arrangement is to allow the heat to pass
over and around the ends which causes a more rapid movement of the air
current. This is more important in drying than the heat.
It may be necessary to shift the trays by putting the top one on the
bottom and the bottom one on the top during the drying process so as to
dry the products more uniformly.
[Illustration]
[Illustration: Home-made driers ready for use. (Courtesy of Peabody
College for Teachers, Nashville, Tenn.)]
WOOD BOX
(MADE FROM DRY GOODS BOXES)
[Illustration]
What an unsightly spectacle does a wood pile by the stove, on the
porch, or in the corner of the room present! It is a place of refuge
for all trash, such as old papers and rags. This not only adds to
the untidiness of the room or porch, but it makes extra work for the
already overworked woman. The wood box made of old dry goods boxes
should appeal strongly to the home. It can be kept by the stove or on
the porch or in some convenient place to be reached, and to be filled
by the man before he goes to his daily work. A lid will not only cover
up the contents of the box, but it will serve as a comfortable seat to
be used while preparing the meal.
MATERIALS:
1 packing box, 24” deep × 23½” wide × 32” long.
1 pair 2” (butt) hinges with ⅝” screws to fasten on top.
¼ lb. 8-penny nails to make box.
Sandpaper and stain.
DIMENSIONS:
_Body_: 1 box 24” deep × 23½” wide × 32” long.
_Top_: 1 piece ¾” thick × 18” wide × 32” long.
_Legs_: 4 pieces ¾” thick × 2” wide × 28¾” long.
4 pieces ¾” thick × 2½” wide × 28¾” long.
_Cleats_: 2 pieces ½” thick × 3” wide × 15” long.
_Hinge Strip_: 1 piece ½” thick × 3” wide × 29” long.
DIRECTIONS:
Make the legs 4” longer than the depth of the box after the
cover has been removed, and nail them on the box. Make the cover
2” wider and 2” longer than the outside length and width of the
box. Place each cleat about 3” from the end of the cover and
nail on the cover. Hinges are put 5” from each end of the box.
Sandpaper, stain and polish.
[Illustration]
FIRELESS COOKER
There are many advantages in having a fireless cooker in the home. It
not only saves time and fuel but keeps the woman from standing over
the hot fire, and there are many foods that are better when cooked
at a lower temperature. The principle of the fireless cooker is to
retain the heat by boiling the food in a vessel with a tight cover and
placing it in the cooker in the same vessel, thus keeping the heat from
escaping. An outside container may be made to accommodate one or more
cooking vessels. A cheap but efficient fireless cooker may be made of a
tightly built wooden box, a barrel, or a tin lard can as shown in the
illustration. If the outside container is of wood it must be lined on
the inside with asbestos or heavy paper to keep out the air.
The nest may be a galvanized or tin bucket of a size which will admit
of three inches of packing between the outside container and the nest.
The sides and bottom of the nest are covered with asbestos to prevent
the scorching or the burning of the packing.
The packing must be of some material through which the heat cannot
easily escape. Cork, sawdust, excelsior, hay, or shredded newspaper may
be used to an advantage. Three inches of this packing is put tightly in
the bottom of the outside container and around the sides to fill in the
space between the outside container and the nest.
A four-inch space is left at the top of the fireless cooker in which
a cushion made of unbleached cotton or some other material is stuffed
with the packing and placed to make the cooker air-tight. Cut two
circles out of the unbleached cotton and a three-inch straight piece
to join the circles together. A hot soapstone, stove plate or brick is
placed in the bottom of the nest before the food vessel is placed in
the fireless cooker. The food vessel may be any cooking utensil with a
top that will fit in the nest after the soapstone has been put in. Cut
a circle of tin or cardboard to fit top of inside of cooker with an
opening the size of the nest. This gives a good finish to the top of
the fireless cooker and preserves the packing.
[Illustration]
[Illustration: Assembled material for building a fireless cooker. 1,
Outside container; 2, paper for lining; 3, material for packing; 4,
inside nest; 5, cooker vessel; 6, soapstone; 7, paste; 8, tape; 9,
cardboard; 10 muslin for cushion; 11, stain; 12, a finished cooker; 13,
top to inside nest]
MATERIALS:
1 lard can 18” × 24”.
1 lard can 12” × 15”.
4 lbs. excelsior.
1 yd. asbestos.
¾ yd. unbleached cotton.
1 soapstone.
1 sheet cardboard.
DIMENSIONS:
_Outside Container_: 18” × 24”.
_Nest_: 12” × 15”.
_Cooking Vessel_: 11½” × 13”.
DIRECTIONS:
Place 3” of excelsior in the bottom of the outside container
(18” × 24”) and pack it down tightly. Cover the bottom and sides
of the nest (12” × 15”) with asbestos. Then place nest in the
outside container holding it in place while 3” of packing is
put tightly between the outside container and nest. Cut the
cardboard circle to fit inside of the top of outside container
with an opening to fit the top of the nest and put on top to
give a good finish and to preserve the packing. Make the cushion
for the top of the unbleached cotton by cutting two circles with
3” strip to join them together. Then pack the cushion tightly
with the same packing. Enamel the cooker.
[Illustration]
[Illustration: Any convenient box may be used and any can of convenient
size, such as a lard can, etc. The cans should be wrapped with about 4
or 5 layers of asbestos paper. The space around the cans should be at
least 2 inches, and filled with straw or wood shavings, etc. The top of
the cans should be covered with a pad filled with straw or shavings,
etc.]