and then; began talking on all sorts of subjects--some of them the
very serious and earnest subjects that one occasionally drops into by
mere chance, with mere strangers. I recall that half hour on Kynance
Sands as one of the pleasant memories of our tour, though to this day
I have not the remotest idea who my companion was. Except that as soon
as he spoke I recognised the reader whose voice had so struck me in
last night's thanksgiving service; reminding me of Frederick Denison
Maurice, whom this generation is almost beginning to forget, but whom
we elders never can forget.
The tide was creeping on now--nay, striding, wave after wave, through
"parlour" and "drawing-room," making ingress and egress alike
impossible. In fact, a newly arrived party of tourists, who had stood
unwisely long contemplating the Bellows, were seen to gaze in despair
from their rock which had suddenly become an island. No chance for them
except to wade--and in a few minutes more they would probably have
to swim ashore. What became of them we did not stay to see, for an
anxious, prudent little voice, always thoughtful for "mother," insisted
on our precipitate flight before the advancing tide. Kynance, lovely as
it is, has its inconveniences.
Departing, we met a whole string of tourist-looking people, whom we
benevolently warned that they were too late, at which they did not
seem in the least disappointed. Probably they were one of the numerous
pic-nic parties who come here from Falmouth or Helstone, to spend a
jovial day of eating and drinking, and enjoy the delights of the flesh
rather than the spirit.
At any rate the romance and solitude of the place were gone. The quaint
old woman at the serpentine shop--a mild little wooden erection under
the cliff--was being chaffed and bargained with by three youths with
cigars, which defiled the whole air around, and made us take refuge up
the hill. But even there a white umbrella had sprung up like a gigantic
mushroom, and under it sat an energetic lady artist, who, entering at
once into conversation, with a cheerful avidity that implied her not
having talked for a week, informed us of all she was painting, and all
she had meant to paint, where she lodged, and how much she paid for her
lodging--evidently expecting the same confidences from us in return.
But we were getting hungry, and between us and dinner was a long
two-miles walk over the steep downs, that were glowing, nay, burning,
under the September sun. So we turned homeward, glad of more than one
rest by the way, and a long pause beside a pretty little stream; where
we were able to offer the immemorial cup of cold water to several
thirsty souls besides ourselves. Some of us by this time were getting
to feel not so young as we had fancied ourselves in the early morning,
and to wish regretfully for Charles and his carriage.
However, we got home at last--to find that sad accompaniment of many a
holiday--tidings of sickness and death. Nothing very near us--nothing
that need hurry us home--but enough to sadden us, and make our evening
walk, which we bravely carried out, a far less bright one than that of
the forenoon.
The girls had found a way, chiefly on the tops of "hedges," to the
grand rock called Lizard Point. Thither we went, and watched the
sunset--a very fine one; then came back through the village, and made
various purchases of serpentine from John Curgenven's wife, who was
a great deal younger than himself, but not near so handsome or so
original.
But a cloud had come over us; it did not, and must not stay--still,
there it was for the time. When the last thing at night I went out into
the glorious moonlight--bright as day--and thought of the soul who had
just passed out of a long and troubled life into the clearness of life
eternal, it seemed as if all was right still. Small cares and worries
dwindled down or melted away--as the petty uglinesses around melted
in the radiance of this glorious harvest moon, which seemed to wrap
one round in a silent peace, like the "garment of praise," which David
speaks about--in exchange for "the spirit of heaviness."
DAY THE EIGHTH
And seven days were all we could allow ourselves at the Lizard, if we
meant to see the rest of Cornwall. We began to reckon with sore hearts
that five days were already gone, and it seemed as if we had not seen
half we ought to see, even of our near surroundings.
"We will take no excursion to-day. We will just have our bath at Housel
Cove and then we will wander about the shore, and examine the Lizard
Lights. Only fancy, our going away to-morrow without having seen the
inside of the Lizard Lights! Oh, I wish we were not leaving so soon. We
shall never like any place as we like the Lizard."
It was indeed very delightful. Directly after breakfast--and we are
people who never vary from our eight o'clock breakfast, so that we
always see the world in its early morning brightness and freshness--we
went
"Brushing with hasty steps the dew away,"
along the fields, which led down to Housel or Househole Cove. Before
us, clear in the sunshine, rose the fine headland of Penolver, and
the green slopes of the amphitheatre of Belidden, supposed to be the
remains of a Druidical temple. That, and the chair of Belidden, a
recess in the rock, whence there is a splendid view, with various
archæological curiosities, true or traditionary, we ought to have
examined, I know. But--we didn't do it. Some of us were content to
rejoice in the general atmosphere of beauty and peace without minute
investigation, and some of us were so eminently practical that "a good
bathe" appeared more important than all the poetry and archæology in
the world.
So we wandered slowly on, rejoicing at having the place all to
ourselves, when we came suddenly upon a tall black figure intently
watching three other black figures, or rather dots, which were climbing
slowly over Penolver.
It was our clerical friend of Kynance; with whom, in the natural and
right civility of holiday-makers, we exchanged a courteous good morning.
[Illustration: THE LION ROCKS--A SEA IN WHICH NOTHING CAN LIVE.]
"Yes, those are my girls up on the cliff there. They have been bathing,
and are now going to walk to Cadgwith."
"Then nobody fell into the Devil's Throat at Kynance? They all came
back to you with whole limbs?"
"Yes," said he smiling, "and they went again for another long walk
in the afternoon. At night, when it turned out to be such splendid
moonlight, they actually insisted on going launce-fishing. Of course
you know about launce-fishing?"
I pleaded my utter ignorance of that noble sport.
"Oh, it is _the_ thing at the Lizard. My boys--and girls too--consider
it the best fun going. The launce is a sort of sand-eel peculiar to
these coasts. It swims about all day, and at night burrows in the sand
just above the waterline, where, when the moon shines on it, you can
trace the silvery gleam of the creature. So you stand up to your ankles
on wet sand, with a crooked iron spear which you dart in and hook him
up, keeping your left hand free to seize him with."
"Easy fishing," said I, with a certain pity for the sand-eel.
"Not so easy as appears. You are apt either to chop him right in
two, or miss him altogether, when off he wriggles in the sand and
disappears. My young people say it requires a practised hand and a
peculiar twist of the wrist, to have any success at all in launce
fishing. It can only be done on moonlight nights--the full moon and
a day or two after--and they are out half the night. They go about
barefoot, which is much safer than soaked shoes and stockings. About
midnight they light a fire on the sand, cook all the fish they have
caught, and have a grand supper, as they had last night. They came home
as merry as crickets about two o'clock this morning. Perhaps you might
not have noticed what a wonderful moonlight night it was?"
I had; but it would not have occurred to me to spend it in standing for
hours up to the knees in salt water, catching unfortunate fish.
However, tastes differ, and launce-fishing may be a prime delight to
some people; so I faithfully chronicle it, and the proper mode of
pursuing it, as one of the attractions at the Lizard. I am not aware
that it is practised at any other part of the Cornish coast, nor can
I say whether or not it was a pastime of King Arthur and his Knights.
One cannot imagine Sir Tristram or Sir Launcelot occupied in spearing a
small sand-eel.
The bathing at Housel Cove was delightful as ever. And afterwards we
saw that very rare and beautiful sight, a perfect solar rainbow. Not
the familiar bow of Noah, but a great luminous circle round the sun,
like the halo often seen round the moon, extending over half the sky;
yellow at first, then gradually assuming faint prismatic tints. This
colouring, though never so bright as the ordinary arched rainbow, was
wonderfully tender and delicate. We stood a long time watching it,
till at last it melted slowly out of the sky, leaving behind a sense of
mystery, as of something we had never seen before and might never see
again in all our lives.
It was a lovely day, bright and warm as midsummer, tempting us to some
distant excursion; but we had decided to investigate the Lizard Lights.
We should have been content to take them for granted, in their purely
poetical phase, as we had watched them night after night. But some of
us were blessed with scientific relatives, who would have despised us
utterly if we had spent a whole week at the Lizard and never gone to
see the Lizard Lights. So we felt bound to do our duty, and admire, if
we could not understand.
Which we certainly did not. I chronicle with shame that the careful and
courteous explanations of that most intelligent young man, who met us
at the door of the huge white building, apparently quite glad to have
an opportunity of conducting us through it, were entirely thrown away.
We mounted ladders, we looked at Brobdingnagian lamps, we poked into
mysterious machinery for lighting them and for sounding the fog-horn,
we listened to all that was told us, and tried to look as if we took it
in. Very much interested we could not but be at such wonderful results
of man's invention, but as for comprehending! we came away with our
minds as dark as when we went in.
I have always found through life that, next to being clever, the safest
thing is to know one's own ignorance and acknowledge it. Therefore let
me leave all description of the astonishing mechanism of the Lizard
Lights--I believe the first experiment of their kind, and not very
long established--to abler pens and more intelligent brains. To see
that young man, scarcely above the grade of a working man, handling
his instruments and explaining them and their uses, seeming to take
for granted that we could understand--which alas! we didn't, not
an atom!--inspired me with a sense of humiliation and awe. Also of
pride at the wonders this generation has accomplished, and is still
accomplishing; employing the gradually comprehended forces of Nature
against herself, as it were, and dominating her evil by ever-new
discoveries and applications of the recondite powers of good.
The enormous body of light produced nightly--equal, I think he said,
to 30,000 candles--and the complicated machinery for keeping the
fog-horn continually at work, when even that gigantic blaze became
invisible--all this amount of skill, science, labour, and money,
freely expended for the saving of life, gave one a strong impression of
not only British power but British beneficence. Could King Arthur have
come back again from his sea-engulfed Land of Lyonesse, and stood where
we stood, beside the Lizard Lights, what would he have said to it all?
[Illustration: HAULING IN THE BOATS.]
Even though we did not understand, we were keenly interested in all we
saw, and still more so in the stories of wrecks which this young man
had witnessed even during the few years, or months--I forget which--of
his stay at the Lizard. He, too, agreed, that the rocks there, called
by the generic name of the Stags, were the most fatal of all on our
coasts to ships outward and homeward bound. Probably because in the
latter case, captain and crews get a trifle careless; and in the
former--as I have heard in sad explanation of many emigrant ships being
lost almost immediately after quitting port--they get drunk. Many of
the sailors are said to come on board "half-seas over," and could the
skilfullest of pilots save a ship with a drunken crew?
Be that as it may, the fact remains, that throughout winter almost
every week's chronicle at the Lizard is the same story--wild storms, or
dense fogs, guns of distress heard, a hasty manning of the life-boat,
dragged with difficulty down the steep cliff-road, a brief struggle
with the awful sea, and then, even if a few lives are saved, with the
ship herself all is over.
"Only last Christmas I saw a vessel go to pieces in ten minutes on the
rocks below there," said the man, after particularising several wrecks,
which seemed to have imprinted themselves on his memory with all their
incidents. "Yes, we have a bad time in winter, and the coastguard
men lead a risky life. They are the picked men of the service, and
tolerably well paid, but no money could ever pay them for what they go
through--or the fishermen, who generally are volunteers, and get little
or nothing."
"It must be a hard life in these parts, especially in winter," we
observed.
"Well, perhaps it is, but it's our business, you see."
Yes, but not all people do their business, as the mismanagements and
mistakes of this world plainly show.
Still, it is a good world, and we felt it so as we strolled along the
sunshiny cliff, talking over all these stories, tragical or heroic,
which had been told us in such a simple matter-of-fact way, as if they
were every-day occurrences. And then, while the young folks went on
"for a good scramble" over Penolver, I sat down for a quiet "think";
that enforced rest, which, as years advance, becomes not painful, but
actually pleasant; in which, if one fails to solve the problems of the
universe, one is prone to con them over, wondering at them all.
From the sunny sea and sunny sky, full of a silence so complete that I
could hear every wave as it broke on the unseen rocks below, my mind
wandered to that young fellow among his machinery, with his sickly
eager face and his short cough--indicating that _his_ "business" in
this world, over which he seemed so engrossed, might only too soon
come to an end. Between these apparently eternal powers of Nature,
so strong, so fierce, so irresistible, against which man fought so
magnificently with all his perfection of scientific knowledge and
accuracy of handiwork--and this poor frail human life, which in a
moment might be blown out like a candle, suddenly quenched in darkness,
"there is no skill or knowledge in the grave whither thou goest"--what
a contrast it was!
And yet--and yet?--We shall sleep with our fathers, and some of us feel
sometimes so tired that we do not in the least mind going to sleep. But
notwithstanding this, notwithstanding everything without that seems to
imply our perishableness, we are conscious of something within which
is absolutely imperishable. We feel it only stronger and clearer as
life begins to melt away from us; as "the lights in the windows are
darkened, and the daughters of music are brought low." To the young,
death is often a terror, for it seems to put an end to the full, rich,
passionate life beyond which they can see nothing; but to the old,
conscious that this their tabernacle is being slowly dissolved, and yet
its mysterious inhabitant, the wonderful, incomprehensible _me_, is
exactly the same--thinks, loves, suffers, and enjoys, precisely as it
did heaven knows how many years ago--to them, death appears in quite
another shape. He is no longer Death the Enemy, but Death the Friend,
who may--who can tell?--give back all that life has denied or taken
away. He cannot harm us, and he may bless us, with the blessing of
loving children, who believe that, whatever happens, nothing can take
them out of their Father's arms.
But I had not come to Cornwall to preach, except to myself now and
then, as this day. My silent sermon was all done by the time the
young folks came back, full of the beauties of their cliff walk, and
their affectionate regrets that I "could never manage it," but must
have felt so dull, sitting on a stone and watching the sheep and the
sea-gulls. Not at all! I was obliged to confess that I never am "dull,"
as people call it, and love solitude almost as much as society.
[Illustration: ENYS DODNAN AND PARDENICK POINTS.]
So, each contented in our own way, we went merrily home, to find
waiting for us our cosy tea--the last!--and our faithful Charles, who,
according to agreement, appeared overnight, to take charge of us till
we got back to civilisation and railways.
"Yes, ladies, here I am," said he with a beaming countenance. "And
I've got you the same carriage and the same horse, as you wished, and
I've come in time to give him a good night's rest. Now, when shall you
start, and what do you want to do to-morrow?"
Our idea had been to take for our next resting-place Marazion. This
queer-named town had attracted us ever since the days when we learnt
geography. Since, we had heard a good deal about it: how it had
been inhabited by Jewish colonists, who bought tin from the early
Ph[oe]nician workers of the Cornish mines, and been called by them
Mara-Zion--bitter Zion--corrupted by the common people into Market-Jew.
It was a quiet place, with St. Michael's Mount opposite; and attracted
us much more than genteel Penzance. So did a letter we got from the
landlord of its one hotel, promising to take us in, and make us
thoroughly comfortable.
Could we get there in one day? Charles declared we could, and even see
a good deal on the road.
"We'll go round by Mullion. Mary will be delighted to get another
peep at you ladies, and while I rest the horse you can go in and look
at the old church--it's very curious, they say. And then we'll go on
to Gunwalloe,--there's another church there, close by the sea, built
by somebody who was shipwrecked. But then it's so old and so small.
However, we can stop and look at it if you like."
His good common sense, and kindliness, when he might so easily have
done his mere duty and taken us the shortest and ugliest route, showing
us nothing, decided us to leave all in Charles's hands, and start at
10 A.M. for Penzance, _viâ_ Helstone, where we all wished to
stay an hour or two, and find out a "friend," the only one we had in
Cornwall.
So all was settled, with but a single regret, that several boating
excursions we had planned with John Curgenven had all fallen through,
and we should never behold some wonderful sea-caves between the Lizard
and Cadgwith, which we had set our hearts upon visiting.
Charles fingered his cap with a thoughtful air. "I don't see why you
shouldn't, ladies. If I was to go direct and tell John Curgenven to
have a boat ready at Church Cove, and we was to start at nine instead
of ten, and drive there, the carriage might wait while you rowed to
the caves and back; we should still reach Helstone by dinner-time, and
Marazion before dark."
"We'll do it!" was the unanimous resolve. And at this addition to his
work Charles looked actually pleased!
So--all was soon over, our easy packing done, our bill paid--a very
small one--our goodnights said to the kindly handmaid, Esther, who
hoped we would come back again some time, and promised to keep the
artistic mural decorations of our little parlour in memory of us. My
young folks went to bed, and then, a little before midnight, when all
the house was quiet, I put a shawl over my head, unlatched the innocent
door--no bolts or bars at the Lizard--and went out into the night.
What a night it was!--mild as summer, clear as day: the full moon
sailing aloft in an absolutely cloudless sky. Not a breath, not a
sound--except the faint thud-thud of the in-coming waves, two miles
off, at Kynance, the outline of which, and of the whole coast, was
distinctly visible. A silent earth, lying under a silent heaven.
Looking up, one felt almost like a disembodied soul, free to cleave
through infinite space and gain--what?
Is it human or divine, this ceaseless longing after something never
attained, this craving after the eternal life, which, if fully believed
in, fully understood, would take all the bitterness out of this life?
And yet, that knowledge is not given.
But so much is given, and all given is so infinitely good, except where
we ourselves turn it into evil, that surely more, and better, will be
given to us by and by.
And so, to bed--to bed! Those only truly enjoy life who fear not death:
who can say of the grave as if it were their bed: "I will lay me down
in peace and take my rest, for it is Thou only, O God, who makest me to
dwell in safety."
DAY THE NINTH
And our last at the Lizard, which a week ago had been to us a mere word
or dot in a map; now we carried away from it a living human interest in
everything and everybody.
Esther bade us a cordial farewell: Mrs. Curgenven, standing at the
door of her serpentine shop, repeated the good wishes, and informed
us that John and his boat had already started for Church Cove. As we
drove through the bright little Lizard Town, and past the Church of
Landewednack, wondering if we should ever see either again, we felt
quite sad.
But sentimental considerations soon vanished in practical alarms.
Leaving the carriage and Charles at the nearest point to the Cove, we
went down the steep descent, and saw John rocking in his boat, and
beckoning to us with a bland and smiling countenance. But between us
and him lay a sort of causeway, of the very roughest rocks, slippery
with sea-weed, and beat upon by waves--such waves! Yet clearly, if we
meant to get into the boat at all, we must seize our opportunity and
jump in between the flux and reflux of that advancing tide.
I am not a coward: I love boats, and was well used to them in my youth,
but now--my heart misgave me. There were but two alternatives--to
stop the pleasure of the whole party, and leave Cornwall with these
wonderful sea-caves unseen, or to let my children go alone. Neither was
possible; so I hailed a sturdy youth at work hard by, and asked him if
he would take charge of an old lady across the rocks. He grinned from
ear to ear, but came forward, and did his duty manfully and kindly. My
young folks, light as feathers, bounded after; and with the help of
John Curgenven, chivalrous and careful as ever, we soon found ourselves
safely in the boat.
[Illustration: JOHN CURGENVEN FISHING.]
Safe, but not quite happy. "Here we go up, up, up, and here we go down,
down, down," was the principle of our voyage, the most serious one we
ever took in an open boat with a single pair of oars. Never did I see
such waves,--at least, never did I float upon them, in a boat that went
tossing like a bit of cork out into the open sea.
John seemed not to mind them in the least. His strong arms swept the
boat along, and he still found breath to talk to us, pointing out the
great gloomy cliffs we were passing under, and telling us stories of
wrecks, the favourite theme--and no wonder.
This sunshiny morning that iron-bound coast looked awful enough; what
must it have looked like, on the winter night when the emigrant ship
_Brest_ went down!
"Yes, it was about ten o'clock at night," said John. "I was fast asleep
in bed, but they knocked me up; I got on my clothes and was off in
five minutes. They are always glad enough to get us fishermen, the
coastguard are. Mine was the first boat-load we brought ashore; we
would only take women and children that time. They were all in their
night-gowns, and they couldn't speak a word of English, but we made
them understand somehow. One woman threw her three children down to me,
and stayed behind on the wreck with two more."
"Were the women frightened?"
"Oh, no, they were very quiet, dazed like. Some of them seemed to be
saying their prayers. But they made no fuss at all, not even the little
ones. They lay down in the bottom of the boat, and we rowed ashore
as fast as we could, to Cadgwith. Then we rowed back and fetched two
boatloads more. We saved a lot of lives that wreck, but only their
lives; they had scarcely a rag of clothes on, and some of the babies
were as naked as when they were born."
"And who took them in?"