seize the chance of doing some shopping, if there was a shop in Lizard
Town. So we walked--I ought rather to say waded, for the road was
literally swimming--meeting not one living creature, except a family of
young ducks, who, I need scarcely say, were enjoying supreme felicity.
"Yes, ladies, this is the sort of weather we have pretty well all
winter. Very little frost or snow, but rain and storm, and plenty of
it. Also fogs; I've heard there's nothing anywhere like the fogs at the
Lizard."
So said the woman at the post-office, which, except the serpentine
shops, seemed to be the one emporium of commerce in the place. There we
could get all we wanted, and a good deal that we were very thankful we
did not want, of eatables, drinkables, and wearables. Also ornaments,
china vases, &c., of a kind that would have driven frantic any person
of æsthetic tastes. Among them an active young Cornishman of about a
year old was meandering aimlessly, or with aims equally destructive
to himself and the community. He all but succeeded in bringing down a
row of plates upon his devoted head, and then tied himself up, one fat
finger after another, in a ball of twine, upon which he began to howl
violently.
"He's a regular little trial," said the young mother proudly. "He's
only sixteen months old, and yet he's up to all sorts of mischief. I
don't know what in the world I shall do with he, presently. Naughty
boy!" with a delighted scowl.
"Not naughty, only active," suggested another maternal spirit, and
pleaded that the young jackanapes should be found something to do that
was not mischief, but yet would occupy his energies, and fill his mind.
At which, the bright bold face looked up as if he had understood it
all--an absolutely fearless face, brimming with fun, and shrewdness
too. Who knows? The "regular little trial" may grow into a valuable
member of society--fisherman, sailor, coastguardman--daring and doing
heroic deeds; perhaps saving many a life on nights such as last night,
which had taught us what Cornish coast-life was all winter through.
The storm was now gradually abating; the wind had lulled entirely, the
rain had ceased, and by sunset a broad yellow streak all along the west
implied that it might possibly be a fine day to-morrow.
But the lane was almost a river still, and the slippery altitudes of
the "hedges" were anything but desirable. As the only possible place
for a walk I ventured into a field where two or three cows cropped
their supper of damp grass round one of those green hillocks seen in
every Cornish pasture field--a manure heap planted with cabbages, which
grow there with a luxuriance that turns ugliness into positive beauty.
Very dreary everything was--the soaking grass, the leaden sky, the
angry-looking sea, over which a rainy moon was just beginning to throw
a faint glimmer; while shorewards one could just trace the outline of
Lizard Point and the wheat-field behind it. Yesterday those fields had
looked so sunshiny and fair, but to-night they were all dull and grey,
with rows of black dots indicating the soppy, sodden harvest sheaves.
Which reminded me that to-morrow was the harvest festival at
Landewednack, when all the world and his wife was invited by shilling
tickets to have tea in the rectory garden, and afterwards to assist at
the evening thanksgiving service in the church.
"Thanksgiving! What for?" some poor farmer might well exclaim,
especially on such a day as this. Some harvest festivals must
occasionally seem a bitter mockery. Indeed, I doubt if the next
generation will not be wise in taking our "Prayers for Rain,"
"Prayers for Fair Weather," clean out of the liturgy. Such conceited
intermeddling with the government of the world sounds to some
ridiculous, to others actually profane. "Snow and hail, mists and
vapours, wind and storm, fulfilling His Word." And it must be
fulfilled, no matter at what cost to individuals or to nations. The
laws of the universe must be carried out, even though the mystery
of sorrow, like the still greater mystery of evil, remains for ever
unexplained. "Shall not the Judge of all the earth do right?"
And how right is His right! How marvellously beautiful He can make this
world! until we can hardly imagine anything more beautiful in the world
everlasting. Ay, even after such a day as to-day, when the world seems
hardly worth living in, yet we live on, live to wake up unto such a
to-morrow--
But I must wait to speak of it in another page.
DAY THE SIXTH
And a day absolutely divine! Not a cloud upon the sky, not a ripple
upon the water, or it appeared so in the distance. Nearer, no doubt,
there would have been that heavy ground-swell which is so long in
subsiding, in fact is scarcely ever absent on this coast. The land,
like the sea, was all one smile; the pasture fields shone in brilliant
green, the cornfields gleaming yellow--at once a beauty and a
thanksgiving.
It was the very perfection of an autumn morning. We would not lose
an hour of it, but directly after breakfast started leisurely to
find Housel Cove and try our first experiment of bathing in the wide
Atlantic.
The Atlantic it certainly was. Not a rood of land lay between us and
America. Yet the illimitable ocean "where the great ships go down,"
rolled in to our feet in baby ripples, disporting itself harmlessly,
and tempting my two little mermaids to swim out to the utmost limit
that prudence allowed. And how delightful it was to run back barefoot
across the soft sand to the beautiful dressing-room of serpentine
rock, where one could sit and watch the glittering sea, untroubled by
any company save the gulls and cormorants. What a contrast to other
bathing places--genteel Eastbourne and Brighton, or vulgar Margate and
Ramsgate, where, nevertheless, the good folks look equally happy. But
our happiness! No words could describe it. Shall we stamp ourselves
as persons of little mind, easily satisfied, if I confess that we
spent the whole morning in Housel Cove without band or promenade,
without even a Christy Minstrel or a Punch and Judy, our sole amusement
being the vain attempt to catch a tiny fish, the Robinson Crusoe of
a small pool in the rock above high-water mark, where by some ill
chance he found himself. But he looked extremely contented with his
sea hermitage, and evaded so cleverly all our efforts to get hold of
him, that after a while we left him to his solitude--where possibly he
resides still.
[Illustration: THE LIZARD LIGHTS BY DAY.]
How delicious it is for hard-worked people to do nothing, absolutely
nothing! Of course only for a little while--a few days, a few hours.
The love of work and the necessity for it soon revive. But just for
those few harmless hours to let the world and its duties and cares
alike slip by, to be absolutely idle, to fold one's hands and look
at the sea and the sky, thinking of nothing at all, except perhaps
to count and watch for every ninth wave--said to be the biggest
always--and wonder how big it will be, and whether it will reach that
stone with the little colony of limpets and two red anemones beside
them, or stop short at the rock where we sit placidly dangling our
feet, waiting, Canute-like, for the supreme moment when the will of
humanity sinks conquered by the immutable powers of nature. Then,
greatest crisis of all, the sea will attack that magnificent castle and
moat, which we grown-up babies have constructed with such pride. Well,
have we not all built our sand-castles and seen them swept away? happy
if by no unkinder force than the remorseless wave of Time, which will
soon flow over us all.
But how foolish is moralising--making my narrative halt like that horse
whom we amused ourselves with half the afternoon. He was tied by the
leg, poor beast, the fore leg fastened to the hind one, as seemed to be
the ordinary Cornish fashion with all animals--horses, cows, and sheep.
It certainly saves a deal of trouble, preventing them from climbing the
"hedges" which form the sole boundary of property, but it makes the
creatures go limping about in rather a melancholy fashion. However,
as it is their normal condition, probably they communicate it to one
another, and each generation accepts its lot.
This horse did. He was a handsome animal, who came and peered at
the sketch which one of us was doing, after the solemn fashion of
quadrupedal connoisseurship, and kept us company all the afternoon. We
sat in a row on the top of the "hedge," enjoying the golden afternoon,
and scarcely believing it possible that yesterday had been yesterday.
Of the wild storm and deluge of rain there was not a single trace;
everything looked as lovely as if it had been, and was going to be,
summer all the year.
We were so contented, and were making such progress in our sketch and
distant view of Kynance over the now dry and smiling cornfield, that we
had nigh forgotten the duties of civilisation, until some one brought
the news that all the household was apparently dressing itself in its
very best, to attend the rectory tea. We determined to do the same,
though small were our possibilities of toilette.
"But what does it matter?" argued we. "Nobody knows us, and we know
nobody."
A position rather rare to those who "dwell among their own people,"
who take a kindly interest in everybody, and believe with a pardonable
credulity that everybody takes a kindly interest in them.
But human nature is the same all the world over. And here we saw it in
its pleasantest phase; rich and poor meeting together, not for charity,
but courtesy--a courtesy that was given with a kindliness and accepted
with a quiet independence which seemed characteristic of these Cornish
folk.
Among the little crowd, gentle and simple, we, of course, did not know
a single soul. Nevertheless, delivering up our tickets to the gardener
at the gate, we entered, and wandered at ease through the pretty
garden, gorgeous with asters, marigolds, carnations, and all sorts of
rich-coloured and rich-scented autumn flowers; where the hydrangeas
grew in enormous bushes, and the fuchsias had stems as thick and solid
as trees.
In front of the open hall door was a gravel sweep where were ranged
two long tea-tables filled with the humbler but respectable class of
parishioners, chiefly elderly people, and some very old. The Lizard is
a place noted for longevity, as is proved by the register books, where
several deaths at over a hundred may be found recorded, and one--he was
the rector of Landewednack in 1683--is said to have died at the age of
120 years.
The present rector is no such Methuselah. He moved actively to and fro
among his people, and so did his wife, whom we should have recognised
by her omnipresent kindliness, even if she had not come and welcomed
us strangers--easily singled out as strangers, where all the rest were
friends.
Besides the poor and the aged, there was a goodly number of guests
who were neither the one nor the other, playing energetically at
lawn-tennis behind the house, on a "lawn" composed of sea-sand. All
seemed determined to amuse themselves and everybody else, and all did
their very best--including the band.
Alas, that band! I would fain pass it over in silence (would it
had returned the compliment!); but truth is truth, and may benefit
rather than harm. The calm composure with which those half-dozen
wind-instruments sat in a row, playing determinedly flat, bass coming
in with a tremendous boom here and there, entirely at his own volition,
without regard to time or tune, was the most awful thing I ever heard
in music! Agony, pure and simple, was the only sensation it produced.
When they struck up, we just ran away till the tune was ended--what
tune, familiar or unfamiliar, it was impossible to say. Between us
three, all blessed, or cursed, with musical ears, there existed such
difference of opinion on this head, that decision became vain. And
when at last, as the hour of service approached, little groups began
strolling towards the church, the musicians began a final "God save the
Queen," barely recognisable, a feeling of thankfulness was the only
sensation left.
[Illustration: THE FISHERMAN'S DAUGHTER--A CORNISH STUDY.]
Now, let me not be hard upon these village Orpheuses. They did their
best, and for a working man to study music in any form is a good and
desirable thing. But whatever is worth doing at all is worth doing
well. The great bane of provincial life is that people have so few
opportunities of finding out when they do _not_ do things well, and so
little ambition to learn to do them better. If these few severe remarks
should spur on that anonymous band to try and emulate the Philharmonic
or the Crystal Palace orchestra, it will be all the better for the
little community at the Lizard.
The music in the church was beautiful. A crowded congregation--not a
seat vacant--listened to the excellent chanting, hymns, and a harvest
anthem, most accurately and correctly sung. The organist too--it was
a pleasure to watch that young man's face and see with what interest
and enthusiasm he entered into it all. Besides the rector, there were
several other clergymen, one of whom, an old man, read the prayers
with an intonation and expression which I have rarely heard equalled,
and another preached what would have been called anywhere a thoroughly
good sermon. All the statelier guests at the Rectory tea--probably
county families (one stout lady had the dignity of a duchess at
least)--"assisted" at this evening service, and behind them was a
throng of humbler folk, among whom we recognised our sole friend here,
John Curgenven. We had passed him at the church door, and he had lifted
his hat with the air of a _preux chevalier_ of the olden time; "more
like King Arthur than ever"--we observed to one another.
He, and we, and the aristocratic groups, with a few more of the
congregation, lingered for several minutes after service was over,
admiring the beautiful flowers and fruit. I think I never saw any
decorations so rich or so tasteful. And then, as the organ played us
out with an exceedingly brilliant voluntary, the vision of light and
colour melted away, and we came out upon the quiet churchyard, lying in
the cold, still moonlight.
But what a moonlight! Clear as day, the round silver orb sailing
through a cloudless sky of that deep dark which we know is blue, only
moonlight shows no colours. Oh, Lady Moon, Lady Moon, what a dangerous
night for some of those groups to go walking home in! We saw them in
twos and threes, various young people whom we had got to know by sight,
and criticise, and take an interest in, wandering slowly on through
Lizard Town, and then diverging into quieter paths.
As we gladly did too. For there, in an open space near the two hotels
which co-exist close together--I hope amicably, and divide the tourist
custom of the place--in front of a row of open windows which showed the
remains of a _table d'hôte_, and playing lively tunes to a group of
delighted listeners, including some children, who had struck up a merry
dance--stood that terrible wind band!
It was too much! All our sympathy with our fellow-creatures, our
pleasure in watching them enjoy themselves, our interest in studying
human nature in the abstract, nay, even the picturesqueness of the
charming moonlight scene, could not tempt us to stay. We paused a
minute, then put our fingers in our ears and fled. Gradually those
fearful sounds melted away into distance, and left us to the silence of
moonshine, and the sight, now grown familiar, but never less beautiful,
of the far-gleaming Lizard Lights.
DAY THE SEVENTH
John Curgenven had said last night, with his air of tender patronising,
half regal, half paternal, which we declared always reminded us of King
Arthur--"Ladies, whenever you settle to go to Kynance, I'll take you."
And sure enough there he stood, at eight in the morning, quite a
picture, his cap in one hand, a couple of fishes dangling from the
other--he had brought them as a present, and absolutely refused to be
paid--smiling upon us at our breakfast, as benignly as did the sun. He
came to say that he was at our service till 10 A.M.; when he
had an engagement.
Our countenances fell. We did not like venturing in strange and
dangerous ground, or rather sea, without our protector. But this was
our last chance, and such a lovely day.
"You won't come to any harm, ladies," said the consoling John. "I'll
take you by a short cut across the down, much better than the cliff.
You can't possibly miss your way: it'll lead you straight to Kynance,
and then you go down a steep path to the Cove. You'll have plenty of
time before the tide comes in to see everything."
"And to bathe?"
"Oh yes, miss, there's the Drawing-room, the Dining-room, and the
Kitchen--all capital caves close together; I wouldn't advise you to
swim out far, though. And keep a sharp look out for the tide--it runs
in pretty fast."
"And the scrambling?"
"Oh, you can easy get on Asparagus Island, miss; it's quite safe. Only
don't try the Devil's Throat--or Hell's Mouth, as some folk call it."
Neither name was inviting; but studying our guide-books, we thought we
could manage even without our friend. So, long ere the dew was dried on
the sunshiny down, we all started off together, Curgenven slackening
his quick active steps--very light and most enviably active for a man
of his years--to accommodate us, and conversing courteously with us all
the way.
[Illustration: KYNANCE COVE, CORNWALL.]
"Ower the muir amang the heather" have I tramped many a mile in
bonnie Scotland, but this Cornish moor and Cornish heather were quite
different. As different as the Cornishman with his bright, frank face,
and his mixture of British honesty and Gallic courtesy, from the Scotch
peasant--equally worthy, but sometimes just a trifle "dour."
John had plenty to say for himself, and said it well, with a quiet
independence that there was no mistaking; never forgetting meanwhile to
stop and offer a helping hand over every bit of rough road, puddle, or
bog. He gave us a vivid picture of winter life at the Lizard: when the
little community has to hybernate, like the squirrels and field-mice,
upon its summer savings.
"Sometimes we don't earn a halfpenny for weeks and months, and then if
we've got nothing to fall back upon it's a bad job, you see, ma'am."
I asked him if much money went for drink; they seemed to me a
remarkably sober set at the Lizard.
"Yes, I think we are; we're obliged to be; we can't spend money at the
public-house, for we've got none to spend. I'm no teetotaller myself,"
added John boldly. "I don't dislike a glass of beer now and then, if I
can afford it, and when I can't afford it I can do without it, and if I
do take it I always know when to stop."
Ay, that is the crucial test--the knowing when to stop. It is this
which makes all the difference between a good man and a villain, a wise
man and a fool. Self-control--a quality which, guided by conscience and
common sense, is the best possession of any human being. And looking at
the honest fisherman, one felt pretty sure he had his share of it.
"Now I must leave you, ladies," said he, a great deal sooner than we
wished, for we much liked talking to him. "My time's nearly up, and I
mustn't keep my gentleman waiting; he goes out in my boat every day,
and has been a good friend to me. The road's straight before you,
ladies; and there's another party just ahead of you. Follow the track,
and you'll soon be at Kynance. It's a lovely day for the Cove, and I
hope you'll enjoy yourselves."
John bared his grey head, with a salutation worthy of some old knight
of the Round Table, and then strode back, in double-quick time, as
active and upright as any young fellow of twenty-five, across the level
down.
Beautiful Kynance! When, afterwards, I stood one dull winter day
in a London Art Gallery, opposite the _Cornish Lions_, how well I
recalled this day! How truly Brett's picture gives the long roll of
the wave upon the silver sands, the richly-tinted rocks and caves, the
brightness and freshness of everything. And those merry girls beside
me, who had the faculty of enjoying all they had, and all they did,
without regretting what they had not or what they might not do--with
heroic resignation they promised not to attempt to swim in the tempting
smooth water beyond the long rollers. Though knocked down again and
again, they always emerged from the waves with shouts of laughter. Mere
dots they looked to my anxious eyes--a couple of corks tossed hither
and thither on the foaming billows--and very thankful I was to get them
safe back into the "drawing-room," the loveliest of lovely caves.
There was no time to lose; by noon our parlour floor--what a fairy
floor it was! of the softest, most delicious sand--would be all covered
with waves. And before then there was a deal to be seen and done, the
Bellows, the Gull Rock, Asparagus Island--even if we left out the
dangerous points with the ugly names that Curgenven had warned us
against.
What is there in humanity, certainly in youthful humanity, that if
it can attain its end in two ways, one quiet and decorous, the other
difficult and dangerous, is certain to choose the latter?
"We must manage to get you to the Bellows, it is such a curious sight,"
said my girls as they returned from it. "Don't be frightened--come
along!"
By dint of pulling, pushing, and the help of stick and arm, I came:
stood watching the spout of water which, in certain conditions of the
tide, forces itself through a tiny fissure in the rock with a great
roar, and joined in the childish delight of waiting, minute by minute,
for the biggest spout, the loudest roar.
But Asparagus Island (where was no asparagus at all) I totally
declined. Not being a goat or a chamois, I contented myself with
sitting where I could gain the best view of the almost invisible
path by which my adventurous young "kids" disappeared. Happily they
had both steady heads and cool nerves; they were neither rash nor
unconscientious. I knew they would come back as soon as they could. So
I waited patiently, contemplating a fellow-victim who seemed worse off
than myself; a benign-looking clergyman, who kept walking up and down
the soppy sands, and shouting at intervals to two young people, a man
and a woman, who appeared to be crawling like flies along the face of
the rock towards another rock, with a yawning cave and a wide fissure
between.
"Don't attempt it!" the clergyman cried at the top of his voice.
"That's the Devil's Throat. She'll never manage it. Come down. Do make
her come down."
"Your young people seem rather venturesome," said I sympathetically.
[Illustration: THE STEEPLE ROCK, KYNANCE COVE.]
"Not _my_ young people," was the dignified answer. "My girls are up
there, on Asparagus Rock, which is easy enough climbing. They promised
not to go farther, and they never disobey their mother and me. But
those two! I declare he is taking her to the most dangerous part, that
rock where you have to jump--a good jump it is, and if you miss your
footing you are done for, you go right into the boiling waves below.
Well, it's no business of mine; she is his own property; he is engaged
to her, but"--
I fear I made some very severe remarks on the folly of a young man who
could thus risk life and limbs--not only his own, but those of his wife
to be; and on the weakness of a girl who could allow herself to be
tempted, even by a lover, into such selfish foolhardiness.
"They must manage their own affairs," said the old gentleman
sententiously, perhaps not being so much given to preaching (out of the
pulpit) as I was. "My daughters are wiser. Here come two of them."
And very sensible girls they looked, clad in a practical, convenient
fashion, just fitted for scrambling. By them I sent a message to my own
girls, explaining the best descent from Asparagus Island, and repeating
the warning against attempting Hell's Mouth.
"Yes, you are quite right," said my elderly friend, as we sat down
together on the least uncomfortable stone we could find, and watched
the juniors disappear over the rocks. "I like to see girls active and
brave; I never hinder them in any reasonable enjoyment, even though
there may be risk in it--one must run some risk--and a woman may
have to save life as well as a man. But foolhardy bravado I not only
dislike--I _despise_ it."