the question. "The fishermen's cottages were full, and so was the
parsonage. We gave them clothes, and kept them till they could be sent
away. Yes, it was an awful night; I got something to remember it by,
here."
He held out his hand, from which we noticed half of one finger was
missing.
"It got squeezed off with a rope somehow. I didn't heed it much at
the time," said John carelessly. "But look, we're at the first of the
caves. I'll row in close, ladies, and let you see it."
So we had to turn our minds from the vision of the wreck of the
_Brest_, which John's simple words made so terribly vivid, to examine
Raven's Ugo, and Dolor Ugo; _ugo_ is Cornish for cave. Over the
entrance of the first a pair of ravens have built from time immemorial.
It is just accessible, the opening being above the sea-line, and hung
with quantities of sea-ferns. Here in smuggling days, many kegs of
spirits used to be secreted: and many a wild drama no doubt has been
acted there--daring encounters between smugglers and coastguard men,
not bloodless on either side.
Dolor Ugo is now inaccessible and unusable. Its only floor is of
heaving water, a deep olive green, and so clear that we could see the
fishes swimming about pursuing a shoal of launce. Its high-vaulted roof
and sides were tinted all colours--rose-pink, rich dark brown, and
purple. The entrance was wide enough to admit a boat, but it gradually
narrowed into impenetrable darkness. How far inland it goes no one can
tell, as it could only be investigated by swimming, a rather dangerous
experiment. Boats venture as far as the daylight goes; and it is a
favourite trick of the boatman suddenly to fire off a pistol, which
reverberates like thunder through the mysterious gloom of the cave.
A solemn place; an awful place, some of us thought, as we rowed in, and
out again, into the sunshiny open sea. Which we had now got used to;
and it was delicious to go dancing like a feather up and down, trusting
to John Curgenven's stout arm and fearless, honest face. We felt sad to
think this would be our last sight of him and of the magnificent Lizard
coast. But the minutes were lessening, and we had some way still to
row. Also to land, which meant a leap between the waves upon slippery
sea-weedy rocks. In silent dread I watched my children accomplish this
feat, and then--
Well, it is over, and I sit here writing these details. But I would
not do it again, not even for the pleasure of revisiting Dolor Ugo and
having a row with John Curgenven.
Honest fellow! he looked relieved when he saw "the old lady" safe on
_terra firma_, and we left him waving adieux, as he "rocked in his
boat in the bay." May his stout arms and kindly heart long remain to
him! May his summer tourists be many and his winter shipwrecks few!
I am sure he will always do his duty, and see that other people do
theirs, or, like the proverbial Cornishmen, he "will know the reason
why."
Charles was ready; waiting patiently in front of a blacksmith's shop.
But, alas! fate had overtaken us in the shape of an innocent leak in
John Curgenven's boat; nothing, doubtless, to him, who was in the habit
of baling it out with his boots, and then calmly putting them on again,
but a little inconvenient to us. To drive thirty miles with one's
garments soaked up to the knees was not desirable.
There was a cottage close by, whence came the gleam of a delicious fire
and the odour of ironing clothes. We went in: the mistress, evidently
a laundress, advanced and offered to dry us--which she did, chattering
all the while in the confidential manner of country folks.
A hard working, decent body she was, and as for her house, it was a
perfect picture of cleanliness and tidiness. Its two rooms, kitchen and
bedroom, were absolutely speckless. When we noticed this, and said we
found the same in many Cornish cottages; she almost seemed offended at
the praise.
"Oh, that's nothing, ma'am. We hereabouts all likes to have our places
tidy. Mine's not over tidy to-day because of the washing. I hadn't time
to clean up. But if you was to come of a Sunday. Look there!" Her eye
caught something in a dark corner, at which she flew, apron in hand. "I
declare, I'm quite ashamed. I didn't think we had one in the house."
"One what?"
"One spider web!"
Dried, warmed, and refreshed, but having found the greatest difficulty
in inducing the good woman to receive any tangible thanks for her
kindness, we proceeded on our journey; going over the same ground which
we had traversed already, and finding Pradenack Down as bleak and
beautiful as ever. Our first halt was at the door of Mary Mundy, who,
with her unappreciated brother, ran out to meet us, and looked much
disappointed when she found we had not come to stay.
"But you will come some time, ladies, and I'll make you so comfortable.
And you'll give my duty to the professor"--it was vain to explain that
four hundred miles lay between our home and his. "I hope he's quite
well. He was a very nice gentleman, please'm. I shall be delighted to
see him again, please'm," &c., &c.
We left the three--Mary, her brother, and Charles--chattering together
in a dialect which I do not attempt to reproduce, and sometimes could
hardly understand. Us, the natives indulged with their best English,
but among themselves they talked the broadest Cornish.
It was a very old church, and a preternaturally old beadle showed it in
a passive manner, not recognising in the least its points of interest
and beauty, except some rows of open benches with ancient oak backs,
wonderfully carved.
"Our vicar dug them up from under the flooring and turned them into
pews. There was a gentleman here the other day who said there was
nothing like them in all England."
Most curious, in truth, they were, and suited well the fine old
building--a specimen of how carefully and lavishly our forefathers
built "for God." We, who build for ourselves, are rather surprised
to find in out-of-the-way nooks like this, churches that in size and
adornment must have cost years upon years of loving labour as well as
money.
It was pleasant to know that the present incumbent, a man of
archæological tastes, appreciated his blessings, and took the utmost
care of his beautiful old church. Success to him! even though he cannot
boast the power of his predecessor, the Reverend Thomas Flavel, who
died in 1682, and whose monument in the chancel really expresses the
sentiments--in epitaph--of the period:
"Earth, take thine earth; my sin, let Satan have it;
The world my goods; my soul my God who gave it.
For from these four, Earth, Satan, World, and God,
My flesh, my sin, my goods, my soul, I had."
But it does not mention that the reverend gentleman was the best
_ghost-layer_ in all England, and that when he died his ghost also
required to be laid, by a brother clergyman, in a spot on the down
still pointed out by the people of Mullion, who, being noted for
extreme longevity, have passed down this tradition from generation
to generation, with an earnest credulity that we of more enlightened
counties can hardly understand.
From Mullion we went on to Gunwalloe. Its church, "small and old," as
Charles had depreciatingly said, had been so painfully "restored,"
and looked so bran-new and uninteresting that we contented ourselves
with a distant look. It was close to the sea--probably built on the
very spot where its pious founder had been cast ashore. The one curious
point about it was the detached belfry, some yards distant from the
church itself. It sat alone in a little cove, down which a sluggish
river crawled quietly seaward. A sweet quiet place, but haunted, as
usual, by tales of cruel shipwrecks--of sailors huddled for hours on
a bit of rock just above the waves, till a boat could put out and
save the few survivors; of sea treasures continually washed ashore
from lost ships--Indian corn, coffee, timber, dollars--many are still
found in the sand after a storm. And one treasure more, of which the
recollection is still kept at Gunwalloe, "a little dead baby in its cap
and night-gown, with a necklace of coral beads."
After this our road turned inland. Our good horse, with the dogged
persistency of Cornish horses and Cornish men, plodded on mile after
mile. Sometimes for an hour or more we did not meet a living soul;
then we came upon a stray labourer, or passed through a village where
healthy-looking children, big-eyed, brown-faced, and dirty-handed,
picturesque if not pretty, stared at us from cottage doors, or from the
gates of cottage gardens full of flowers and apples.
Those apples! They were a picture. Hungry and thirsty, we could not
resist them. After passing several trees, hung thickly with delicious
fruit, we attacked the owner of one of them, a comely young woman, with
a baby in her arms and another at her gown.
"Oh yes, ma'am, you may have as many apples as you like, if your young
ladies will go and get them."
And while they did it, she stood talking by the carriage door, pouring
out to me her whole domestic history with a simple frankness worthy of
the golden age.
"No, really I couldn't," putting back my payment--little enough-- for
the splendid basket of apples which the girls brought back in triumph.
"This is such a good apple year; the pigs would get them if the young
ladies didn't. You're kindly welcome to them--well then, if you are
determined, say sixpence."
On which magnificent "sixpenn'orth," we lived for days! Indeed I think
we brought some of it home as a specimen of Cornish fruit and Cornish
liberality.
[Illustration: THE ARMED KNIGHT AND THE LONG SHIP'S LIGHTHOUSE.]
Helstone was reached at last, and we were not sorry for rest and food
in the old-fashioned inn, whence we could look out of window, and
contemplate the humours of the little town, which doubtless considered
itself a very great one. It was market day, and the narrow street was
thronged with beasts and men--the latter as sober as the former,
which spoke well for Cornwall. Sober and civil too was every one we
addressed in asking our way to the house of our unknown friend, whose
only address we had was Helstone. But he seemed well known in the town,
though neither a rich man, nor a great man, nor--No, I cannot say he
was not a clever man, for in his own line, mechanical engineering, he
must have been exceedingly clever. And he was what people call "a great
character;" would have made such an admirable study for a novelist,
manipulated into an unrecognisable ideal--the only way in which it is
fair to put people in books. When I saw him I almost regretted that I
write novels no more.
We passed through the little garden--all ablaze with autumn colour,
every inch utilised for either flowers, vegetables, or fruit--went into
the parlour, sent our cards and waited the result.
In two minutes our friend appeared, and gave us such a welcome! But to
explain it I must trench a little upon the sanctities of private life,
and tell the story of this honest Cornishman. It will not harm him.
When still young he went to Brazil, and was employed by an English
gold-mining company there, for some years. Afterwards he joined
an engineering firm, and superintended dredging, the erection of
saw-mills, &c., finally building a lighthouse, of which latter work he
had the sole charge, and was exceedingly proud. His conscientiousness,
probity, and entire reliableness made him most valuable to the
firm; whom he served faithfully for many years. When they, as well
as himself, returned to England, he still kept up a correspondence
with them, preserving towards every member of the family the most
enthusiastic regard and devotion.
He rushed into the parlour, a tall, gaunt, middle-aged man, with a
shrewd, kindly face, which beamed all over with delight, as he began
shaking hands indiscriminately, saying how kind it was of us to come,
and how welcome we were.
It was explained which of us he had specially to welcome, the others
being only humble appendages, friends of the family, this well-beloved
family, whose likenesses for two generations we saw everywhere about
the room.
"Yes, miss, there they all are, your dear grandfather" (alas, only a
likeness now!), "your father, and your uncle. They were all so good to
me, and I would do anything for them, or for any one of their name. If
I got a message that they wanted me for anything, I'd be off to London,
or to Brazil, or anywhere, in half-an-hour."
And he really looked as if he would.
"But what will you take?" added the good man when the rapture and
excitement of the moment had a little subsided, and his various
questions as to the well-being of "the family" had been asked and
answered. "You have dined, you say, but you'll have a cup of tea. My
wife (that's the little maid I used to talk to your father about, miss;
I always told him I wouldn't stay in Brazil, I must go back to England
and marry my little maid), my wife makes the best cup of tea in all
Cornwall. Here she is!"
And there entered, in afternoon gown and cap, probably just put on, a
middle-aged, but still comely matron, who insisted that, even at this
early hour--3 P.M.--to get a cup of tea for us was "no trouble
at all."
"Indeed, she wouldn't think anything a trouble, no more than I should,
miss, if it was for your family. They never forget me, nor I them."
It was here suggested that they were not a "forgetting" family. Nor
was he a man likely to be soon forgotten. While the cup of tea, which
proved to be a most sumptuous meal, was preparing, he took us all over
his house, which was full of foreign curiosities, and experimental
inventions. One, I remember, being a musical instrument, a sort of
organ, which he had begun making when a mere boy, and taken with him
all the way to Brazil and back. It had now found refuge in the little
room he called his "workshop," which was filled with odds and ends that
would have been delightful to a mechanical mind. He expounded them with
enthusiasm, and we tried not to betray an ignorance, which in some of
us would have been a sort of hereditary degradation.
"Ah! they were clever--your father and your uncle!--and how proud we
all were when we finished our lighthouse, and got the Emperor to light
it up for the first time. Look here, ladies, what do you think this is?"
He took out a small parcel, and solemnly unwrapped from it fold after
fold of paper, till he came to the heart of it--a small wax candle!
"This was the candle the Emperor used to light our lighthouse. I've
kept it for nearly thirty years, and I'll keep it as long as I live.
Every year on the anniversary of the day I light it, drink his
Majesty's health, and the health of all your family, miss, and then I
put it out again. So"--carefully re-wrapping the relic in its numerous
envelopes--"so I hope it will last my time."
Here the mistress came behind her good man, and they exchanged a
smile--the affectionate smile of two who had never been more than two,
Darby and Joan, but all sufficient to each other. She announced that
tea was ready. And such a tea! How we got through it I hardly know,
but travelling is hungry work, and the viands were delicious. The
beneficence of our kind hosts, however, was not nearly done.
"Come, ladies, I'll show you my garden, and--(give me a basket and the
grape-scissors,)" added he in a conjugal aside. Which resulted in our
carrying away with us the biggest bunches in the whole vinery, as well
as a quantity of rosy apples, stuffed into every available pocket and
bag.
"Nonsense, nonsense," was the answer to vain remonstrances. "D'ye
think I wouldn't give the best of everything I had to your family? and
so would my missis too. How your father used to laugh at me about my
little maid! But he understood it for all that. Oh yes, I'm glad I came
home. And now your father and your uncle are home too, and perhaps some
day they'll come to see me down here--wouldn't it be a proud day for
me! You'll tell them so?"
It was touching, and rare as touching, this passionate personal
fidelity. It threw us back, at least such of us as were sentimentally
inclined, upon that something in Cornish nature which found its
exposition in Arthur and his faithful knights, down to "bold Sir
Bedevere," and apparently, is still not lost in Cornwall.
With a sense of real regret, feeling that it would be long ere we
might meet his like--such shrewd simplicity, earnest enthusiasm, and
exceeding faithfulness--we bade good-bye to the honest man; leaving him
and his wife standing at their garden-gate, an elderly Adam and Eve,
desiring nothing outside their own little paradise. Which of us could
say more, or as much?
Gratefully we "talked them over," as we drove on through the pretty
country round Helstone--inland country; for we had no time to go and
see the Loe Pool, a small lake, divided from the sea by a bar of sand.
This is supposed to be the work of the Cornwall man-demon, Tregeagle;
and periodically cut through, with solemn ceremonial, by the Mayor of
Helstone, when the "meeting of the waters," fresh and salt, is said to
be an extremely curious sight. But we did not see it, nor yet Nonsloe
House, close by, which is held by the tenure of having to provide a
boat and nets whenever the Prince of Wales or the Duke of Cornwall
wishes to fish in the Loe Pool. A circumstance which has never happened
yet, certainly!
Other curiosities _en route_ we also missed, the stones of
Tremenkeverne, half a ton each, used as missiles in a notable fight
between two saints, St. Just of the Land's End, and St. Keverne of the
Lizard, and still lying in a field to prove the verity of the legend.
Also the rock of Goldsithney, where, when the "fair land of Lyonesse"
was engulfed by the sea, an ancestor of the Trevelyans saved himself by
swimming his horse, and landing; and various other remarkable places,
with legends attached, needing much credulity, or imagination, to
believe in.
But, fearing to be benighted ere reaching Marazion, we passed them all,
and saw nothing more interesting than the ruins of disused tin mines,
which Charles showed us, mournfully explaining how the mining business
had of late years drifted away from Cornwall, and how hundreds of the
once thriving community had been compelled to emigrate or starve. As we
neared Marazion, these melancholy wrecks with their little hillocks of
mining debris rose up against the evening sky, the image of desolation.
And then St. Michael's Mount, the picture in little of Mont St. Michel,
in Normandy, appeared in the middle of Mount's Bay. Lastly, after
a gorgeous sunset, in a golden twilight and silvery moonlight, we
entered Marazion;-and found it, despite its picturesque name, the most
commonplace little town imaginable!
We should have regretted our rash decision, and gone on to Penzance,
but for the hearty welcome given us at a most comfortable and home-like
inn, which determined us to keep to our first intention, and stay.
So, after our habit of making the best of things, we walked down to the
ugly beach, and investigated the dirty-looking bay--in the lowest of
all low tides, with a soppy, sea-weedy causeway running across to St.
Michael's Mount. By advice of Charles, we made acquaintance with an old
boatman he knew, a Norwegian who had drifted hither--shipwrecked, I
believe--settled down and married an English woman, but whose English
was still of the feeblest kind. However, he had an honest face; so we
engaged him to take us out bathing early to-morrow.
"And to-night, ladies?" suggested the faithful Charles. "Wouldn't you
like to row round the Mount?--When you've had your tea, I'll come back
for you, and help you down to the shore--it's rather rough, but nothing
like what you have done, ma'am," added he encouragingly. "And it will
be bright moonlight, and the Mount will look so fine."
So, the spirit of adventure conquering our weariness, we went. When
I think how it looked next morning--the small, shallow bay, with its
toy-castle in the centre, I am glad our first vision of it was under
the glamour of moonlight, with the battlemented rock throwing dark
shadows across the shimmering sea. In the mysterious beauty of that
night row round the Mount, we could imagine anything; its earliest
inhabitant, the giant Cormoran, killed by that "valiant Cornishman,"
the illustrious Jack; the lovely St. Keyne, a king's daughter, who came
thither on pilgrimage; and, passing down from legend to history, Henry
de la Pomeroy, who, being taken prisoner, caused himself to be bled to
death in the Castle; Sir John Arundel, slain on the sands, and buried
in the Chapel; Perkin Warbeck's unfortunate wife, who took refuge at
St. Michael's shrine, but was dragged thence. And so on, and so on,
through the centuries, to the family of St. Aubyn, who bought it in
1660, and have inhabited it ever since. "Very nice people," we heard
they were; who have received here the Queen, the Prince of Wales, and
other royal personages. What a contrast to the legendary Cormoran!
Yet, looking up as we rowed under the gloomy rock, we could fancy his
giant ghost sitting there, on the spot where he killed his wife, for
bringing in her apron greenstone, instead of granite, to build the
chapel with. Which being really built of greenstone the story must be
true! What a pleasure it is to be able to believe anything!
Some of us could have stayed out half the night, floating along in the
mild soft air and dreamy moonlight, which made even the commonplace
little town look like a fairy scene, and exalted St. Michael's Mount
into a grand fortress, fit for its centuries of legendary lore--but
others preferred going to bed.
So we landed, and retired. Not however without taking a long look out
of the window upon the bay, which now, at high tide, was one sheet of
rippling moon-lit water, with the grim old Mount, full of glimmering
lights like eyes, sitting silent in the midst of the silent sea.
[Illustration: CORNISH FISHERMAN.]
DAY THE TENTH
I cannot advise Marazion as a bathing place. What a down-come from the
picturesque vision of last night, to a small ugly fishy-smelling beach,
which seemed to form a part of the town and its business, and was
overlooked from everywhere! Yet on it two or three family groups were
evidently preparing for a dip, or rather a wade of about a quarter of a
mile in exceedingly dirty sea water.
"This will never do," we said to our old Norwegian. "You must row us to
some quiet cove along the shore, and away from the town."
He nodded his head, solemn and mute as the dumb boatman of dead Elaine,
rowed us out seaward for about half-a-mile, and then proceeded to
fasten the boat to a big stone, and walk ashore. The water still did
not come much above his knees--he seemed quite indifferent to it. But
we?
Well, we could but do at Rome as the Romans do. Toilette in an open
boat was evidently the custom of the country. And the sun was warm, the
sea safe and shallow. Indeed, so rapidly did it subside, that by the
time the bath was done, we were aground, and had to call at the top of
our voices to our old man, who sat, with his back to us, dim in the
distance, on another big stone, calmly smoking the pipe of peace.
"We'll not try this again," was the unanimous resolve, as, after
politely declining a suggestion that "the ladies should walk ashore--"
did he think we were amphibious?--we got ourselves floated off at last,
and rowed to the nearest landing point, the entrance to St. Michael's
Mount.
Probably nowhere in England is found the like of this place. Such
a curious mingling of a mediæval fortress and modern residence; of
antiquarian treasures and everyday business; for at the foot of the
rock is a fishing village of about thirty cottages, which carries
on a thriving trade; and here also is a sort of station for the tiny
underground-railway, which worked by a continuous chain, fulfils the
very necessary purpose (failing Giant Cormoran, and wife) of carrying
up coals, provisions, luggage, and all other domestic necessaries to
the hill top.