I also add a double-breasted vest. Knowing what trouble I have had myself
in getting the front of such a vest to fit, I came to the conclusion
that this work is not complete without such a diagram, and Dia. IV A is
presented. It has the neck and the shoulders on the same principle points
as Dia. IV, and it only remains for me to say a few words about several
points. At the bottom of the armhole the back is placed at point 11, and
is ¼ of a number longer than in Dia. IV, but that ¼ extra length of back
should be given to a double-breasted vest because the long and open front
can settle better to its place. On account of the large curve in front,
the neck band is about ½ inch higher behind, thus giving less spring, and
for this reason the side of the neck should be pretty well stretched. The
diagram itself furnishes no spring outside of the angle of 135 deg., but
¼ may be given and the back sewed on smooth.
The gore under the collar should be cut for all such vests, but that gore
should hardly be more than the two seams. If the seam is drawn together a
cut of ⅜ is plenty, providing the neck is not stretched again by sewing
the collar on. The bottom of front is represented with a good sized “_lap
over_,” and if less is desired take ¼ inch off at the front edge and set
the buttons ¼ inch forward. The buttons are 2½ numbers backward of the
straight front line. A double-breasted vest, to button up to the neck,
must have a large gore under the collar as shown in Dia. IV A, for two
straight pieces will never fit the chest of a man when they are to be
lapped over each other from three to four inches. For the whole bottom of
the forepart sweeps from 4* and the lap over will fit. This sweep must
extend through the whole front angle of 15 deg. and may be swept clear
back to the side seam, as shown in Dia. IV A, but may be sunk down ½ inch
at the side seam, starting at the plumb base line.
Notch the shoulder from a sweep from the side of the back or at a point
4½ numbers from O on the top square line. Dia. IV A is shown with a large
open front and well curved out, but may be cut straighter or higher, or
even lower to suit fancy or style. A customer may put up with a coat that
shows the corners on each side of the bottom of the front, but he will
not wear a double-breasted vest with one side longer than the other, and
it is astonishing how many such vests are found, especially amongst the
ready made clothing. That defect is not caused by cheap ready made work,
but it is caused by the designer of the patterns over which such vests
are cut, and for which clothing manufacturers usually pay a liberal price.
Writing about ready made clothing brings me to another point. Coats cut
over Dia. II, VIII B and X, will give a better average fit and a nicer
shoulder and an easier armhole, than the great majority of ready made
clothing can boast of, and the same is true of the pants and vests.
[Illustration: DIA. IV A.]