But in order to show the correct idea of a close fitting pants, I have
added Dia. XXVI to the supplement. It is for a form which will go with
Dia. II. Seat size 35, waist made up 33, knee and bottom 17 in., length
of legs 32 in. It may be called old style now, but it will be in style
at the close of the Nineteenth century, or certainly at the dawn of the
Twentieth century.
For spring bottoms allow on each side of the back, starting about 5 in.
above the bottom, and take away from the bottom of the forepart an equal
amount on each side, or so much until the forepart is reduced to less
than 7 in. Dia. XXVI is marked “_7 in. above bottom_” for the reason that
the width of the pants, about 7 in. above the bottom, must be the same,
no matter if the legs are 30 or 35 in. long. The seams are notched from
a sweep having its pivot at point 80, which of course is cut off on this
diagram. Sweeping each side separately from the bottom of the pants and
on each line of the angle of 10 deg. will result in the same thing.
The diagrams in the whole book represent the following seat sizes: 29,
35, 38, 39, 40, 46; and it seems to me that any new beginner should be
able to control the different parts in the intervening sizes.
As to coats, there will be no trouble to cut them with the scale and
according to instructions. But for pants, the scale can only be relied on
for the crotch or fork; all other points, such as waist, hip, knee and
bottom, must be cut according to the measure. Hence the pants diagrams
are given in different sizes. The fork as given by the scale is large
enough with 4 on double cloth for the dress side, but may be made with 4¼.
I will again warn a cutter against giving more fork for extra looseness,
nor to allow behind on top of back for extra waist proportion, but to
allow all extra cloth at the side, unless it is for a large waist, when
it is to be cut like Dia. XX or XXIV. The top line of the back slope of
15 deg. is large enough for all forms, and besides it is large enough
to buckle up ½ on each side of the back seam, and which may be cut away
there, or may be cut away in the gore in the middle of the back when an
extra close waist is to be made. The back slope must remain permanent,
and all changes made sidewise or forward.
I will here add two very important points in altering pants: Pants which
must be cut down because they are too large in size can always be made
better if they are opened in front and cut smaller there and down to the
knee. It is true, it may take one hour longer to do it than to make the
alteration behind, but if a pants is worth altering, it is worth altering
right.
[Illustration: DIA. XXVI.]
About six months ago I thought I would try a few pants with the fork
points cut ½ in. higher, leaving all other points the same, but they
turned out to be first-class failures. They were too short at the bottom,
and fitted only when the legs were spread apart several feet, and in
which position they were long enough, but when the person sat down they
crawled up to the top of his shoes. From this I drew the following
conclusion: Stretching the inseams will throw the legs sidewise, and
will have the same effect as cutting the crotch higher, and whenever
pants work that way, the fork points should be cut down about ½ inch,
but without disturbing the point in front of line 8 any more than can
be helped, but the fork width must be re-established. This may make the
bottom short, and requires the legs to be let out below, but it will
establish a better fit. I will here again point out the fact, that the
inseam stretches more easily than the outside, and cutters must provide
for such defects, from whatever cause they may originate.
I cannot specify amounts, but can only point out the way of alteration,
either after the pants are made or before they are cut, and will only
add: Cutting the fork ½ inch down will cause the leg to be thrown 1½
inch more toward the center of the leg, and ½ inch of alteration may be
considered the extreme alteration for any pants cut according to this
work. If a pattern is cut for pants with plenty notches at the seams, a
cutter can soon find out whether the seams have been stretched, and how
much.
It pays to cut all garments over patterns.