Breast, 34, close measure; waist, 30; seat, 34½; length of legs, 29.
Form: Erect—long neck—flat shoulder blades—all normal cut coats fall away
from his neck—are too long and too wide in the back and too small in
the breast. Model: Dia. II—the square was made 17¾—top of back 2⅝—side
of neck 3—shoulders lap ⅞ at the neck and ½ toward the blade—height
of back above line 9, 14½ numbers. Gore between back and sidepiece: ¾
at armhole—meets at line 11—½ at line 9 and 14½—¾ at 15—1 at 17½—⅝ at
20—meet again at 25 to 30—¼ at 35. Spring back from 15—allow ¾ at 25—1¼
at 30—and allow for the hook. The front is straight—single-breasted—the
lapel is 3 in front of the base on top—3¾ in front of 11¼—meets the
front angle at 15½—thence parallel with the plumb base. The waist seam
is even at the underarm cut—skirt and front laps 1 at line 20, running
so forward. Bottom of skirt sinks ½ in front. The vest had ¾ lap at the
shoulder seam toward the neck and top of back was placed at 3⅛, and had a
spring of 1¼ at the center of back at line 20. The vest was cut size 33,
and ¼ inch allowed in front of the breast, which accounts for the small
square and the full breast.