IV. MODEL: DIA. II.

Breast, 35; waist, 33; seat, 35. Form: A combination of stooping and

erect—neck bends forward—arms thrown backward—shoulders thrown up and

square—very hollow at the back of the waist but erect there—shoulder

blades prominent—seat shows very little at the back—front of waist and

front of thigh thrown forward—top of back 3¼—side of neck 3⅝—shoulder

laps ⅜ at the neck—⅝ toward the blade. Side of shoulder 9⅛ at 60 deg.

Height of back above line 9 is 15⅜. Underarm gore, ⅛ on line 9—½ at

line 15—1 at 17½—¾ at 20. Gore between the back and sidepiece: ½ at

the armhole—meet at 11½ on the back—½ at 11¼—¾ at 15⅜—1 at 15 over the

front—1⅜ at 17½—1¼ at 20—½ at 25—¼ at 30—¼ at 35. The forepart has a gore

of ½ at the waist seam, and the same gore between the skirt and forepart

in front. Center of back: From 15⅜ upward allow ⅛ outside of the base,

and come even again on top—from 15⅜ downward go inward of the base ¼ at

17½—meet again at 22—go out ⅜ at 30—⅝ at 35 for the center and allow for

the hook, etc. Front: In front of 9 allow 1—meet front edge and front

angle at 14—go out 3¼ at 20—1½ at 30—meet at 35. Sink front of skirt

⅝, and no lap between skirt and forepart at the waist seam except to

straighten the forepart over the gore.

Garment cutting in the twentieth century · 第 72 / 134 题