Breast, 36; waist, 31; seat, 36. Form: Erect—square shoulders—full
breast—very hollow back, which causes the shoulder blade to appear pretty
prominent—waist diameter very small from side to side. This is a form
which mostly has its coat back too long or too wide, and requires quite a
close breast measure, or a small square and a full breast. An apparently
long coat back behind the arm is caused when the seat has not enough
spring. Model: Dia. II. Square of 17½. The height of back above line 9
over the front is 15 numbers—top of back 3½—side of neck 4. The shoulder
seam is even at both neck and armhole, but toward the blade there is a
lap of ½ inch, and which seam is for the square shoulder. Under-arm gore:
½ at line 15—⅞ at 17½—1 at line 18⅝, which is the length for the waist
on the back—⅞ at 20. For the contracted waist length behind, the top of
skirt, and the bottom of the back sidepiece seam is even, but lap ⅜ at
the underarm gore—1 at the plumb line base—¾ in front. The bottom of the
sidepiece is ⅜ higher behind, but when the coat is on, the run of the
waist seam is even, on the erect form. At the waist the forepart has a
gore of 1¼ starting at line 15. The front of breast is 1⅜ in front of
9—meets the front angle in front of line 15—and strikes the base at 32
for a cutaway. Spring center of back out from line 15: ½ at 20—1 at 25—1⅝
at 30, and then allow 1 in. for the hook. Gore between sidepiece and
back: ¼ at the armhole—meets at 10½ on back—¾ at 11¼ over the front—1¼ at
15 on back—1½ at 15 over the front—1¼ at 17½—⅞ at 20—¾ at 25—¾ at 30.