became overcast with heavy clouds, which seemed to indicate rain, but
none fell. About eight o'clock the wind changed to north-east, bringing
up very heavy clouds, which led me to expect rain, but I was much
disappointed, for at half-past twelve they all broke up and went off.
This morning, at sunrise, I despatched Thring and Nash to see if there is
water in Hayward, Phillip, Bishop, Tennant, or Goodiar Creeks. If there
is none I shall require to rest the horses for three days, and then push
on for the Bonney. It is a very long distance, and only the very best of
them will be able to do it. I feel a little better this morning, but
still very weak. The pains are increasing in my limbs, and my mouth is so
bad I can eat nothing but a little boiled flour. How I am to get over
such long pushes I do not know. I must trust entirely to Divine
Providence. The natives have not visited us this morning. A little before
four o'clock p.m. Nash returned. Thring had sent him back to report that
there was water, by digging in the sand, at Hayward Creek, while he goes
on to see if there is any other creek. Wind variable, with heavy clouds
at sundown.
Monday, 15th September, Attack Creek. Started at 8.40. On crossing the
creek, one of the weak horses, which had eaten some poison about the
Roper, and which has been getting weaker every day, in attempting to get
up the bank, which was not steep, fell and rolled back into the creek.
There he had to be some time before he was able to get up. I saw that it
was useless taking him any further, therefore left him where he will get
plenty of feed and water. Proceeded to the Hayward, where I met Thring.
There is some soft mud in Phillip Creek, but none in Bishop Creek.
Camped, and cleared out a place for the horses to drink at. A number of
natives have been camped on the opposite side of the creek, where they
have left their spears, dishes, etc. Thring had arrived here some time
before. About twenty of them coming closer to him than was safe, he
mounted his horse and chased them to the hills, where they are now seated
watching us. Some of them are approaching nearer. Mr. Kekwick could not
get them to come near him until one of the old men who visited us at
Attack Creek arrived and came up to him, which gave the others
confidence. A number of them then came forward--tall, stout, well-made
fellows, armed with long heavy spears, having bamboo at one end. One of
them had also part of a large sea-shell, but it is so broken and ground
down for a scoop that I cannot say of what description it is. The bamboo
and the sea-shell show that this tribe has communicated with the
sea-coast. They remained until sundown, and then did not seem inclined to
go away, but prepared sleeping-places for the night--a proof that this is
the only water near. There are upwards of thirty men, besides women and
children. Wind, south-east. Clouds all gone.
Tuesday, 16th September, Hayward Creek. The natives showed themselves
again at daybreak, but kept on the opposite bank of the creek, having a
long look at us, and calling out something at the top of their voices
which we could not understand. Watered our horses, saddled, and moved on
amidst a succession of yells and screeches from old and young. Proceeded
across Short ranges, and Phillip, and Bishop Creeks. Looked into every
place I could think of, but could not find a drop. Moved on to Tennant
Creek. Found that dry. Tried digging in the sand, without effect. Pushed
on to the large rocky water hole in Goodiar Creek, where I made almost
sure that I should find some. On arriving, was sadly disappointed to find
that dry also. Proceeded across the McDouall range, and camped on a
grassy plain between it and Mount Samuel. The natives followed us nearly
to Tennant Creek, raising a line of smoke all the way. They kept about a
mile to the east of us, on some rising ground that runs nearly parallel
with my tracks. We have had to lighten a heavy cart-horse named Charley.
When any hardship is to be undergone, he is always the first to show
symptoms of giving in. He had only thirty pounds to carry to-day, and he
looks ten times worse than those that are carrying one hundred and
twenty. I shall require to let him go without anything to-morrow. We
shall have to watch the horses during the night to prevent them from
straying in search of water. Wind, south-east.
Wednesday, 17th September, McDouall Range. Started at daybreak for the
Murchison range. About eleven o'clock the cart-horse gave in, and would
not move a step further. I am obliged to leave him; he has been carrying
nothing all the morning. Two others that have been very weak from eating
some poisonous plant will, I fear, give in before the end of the day. A
little after four o'clock I found I must leave them. At dark arrived at
the Baker, which I found dry. Camped. This is another night the horses
will be without water, and will require to be watched. A quantity of
native smoke about. There must be permanent water about this range
somewhere, but I have no time to look for it now. Tomorrow I must push on
for the Bonney. If that fails me I shall be in a sad predicament, but I
trust that the Almighty will still continue to show me the same great
kindness that he has done throughout my different journeys. There is very
little improvement in my health. I feel very much being in the saddle so
long. Twelve hours is almost too much for my weak state, but I must
endure it. Wind, south-east.
Thursday, 18th September, Murchison Range. Proceeded at daydawn to the
Gilbert. Found it dry. Went on towards the Bonney; crossed the
McLaren--no water. At two o'clock arrived at the Bonney, and am most
thankful to Divine Providence that there is still a good supply of water
that will last some time longer. My horses look very bad indeed. I
expected to have lost more of them. They have got over this first
difficulty very well. Towards the end of the journey my old horse took
the lead. Day hot. Wind, south-east.
Friday, 19th September, The Bonney. From this camp Mount Fisher bears 119
degrees 30 minutes. I must remain here some time to get my horses round
again. A large number of them are looking very ill this morning. Being so
long without water and the dry state in which the grass is, has reduced
them more than three months' hard work would have done. If the grass had
any nourishment in it, two or three days would have done for them. Not a
drop of rain seems to have fallen here for the last twelve months;
everything is dry and parched up. This appears to be the driest part of
the year. I am very doubtful of the water in the Stirling, the next place
that I was depending upon. From the very reduced state in which this is,
I have very little hope of there being any there. The day has been again
oppressively hot. I trust we shall soon have rain. Wind variable. Native
smoke about.
Saturday, 20th September, The Bonney. Resting horses. I feel very ill
again; being so long in the saddle is very severe upon me. Day again very
hot. Wind from the west, with a few clouds, which I trust will bring up
rain.
Sunday, 21st September, The Bonney. Resting horses. Day very hot. Wind,
west; clouds broken up.
Monday, 22nd September, The Bonney. This morning sent Thring up the creek
to see if there is any larger water than this that can be depended on for
some time to come. Very hot. Clouds all gone. Wind variable.
Tuesday, 23rd September, The Bonney. Recruiting horses, etc. About eleven
o'clock Thring returned. He has been about twenty miles up the creek to
where it became much narrower and was joined by a number of small ones
coming from very rough and stony hills. Its general course is about
east-south-east. At four miles from this he found a pool of water four
feet deep, two hundred yards long, and thirty feet broad. There is a
considerable quantity of water all the way up, but shallow, and none of
the extent of the former one found. Should I be forced to retreat, that
will be a safe place to fall back on until rain falls. Day again
oppressively hot. Wind, east.
Wednesday, 24th September, The Bonney. Shortly after sunrise despatched
Thring to see if there is any water in Thring Ponds, or any between them
and this. I would have gone myself, but was quite unable to do so, being
very little better. One of my good horses has met with an accident in
feeding along the bank of the creek in places where it is very
precipitous. A portion must have given way and thrown him into the creek,
injuring him very much in the chest and other parts of the body. I am
afraid he will not be able to travel with me, which will be a great loss,
having so many weak ones already. Wind, south-east, with a few clouds.
Thursday, 25th September, The Bonney. Clouds all gone, no rain. Resting
horses, etc. Day hot, morning and evening cool, with strong wind from
east and south-east. I have been obliged to reduce the rations to five
pounds of flour and one pound of dried meat per week for each man, which
will leave me provisions at that rate until the end of January, in case I
should be locked in with the dry state of the season. The flies at this
place are a perfect torment. A little after three o'clock p.m. Thring
returned. There was no water in the Barker, none in the Sutherland, and
when he got to the ponds, found them quite dry also; he then returned two
miles to where there was some good feed for the horse, and camped for the
night without water, intending to return to this in the morning. In
saddling he observed some crested pigeons fly past him to the south of
east; he thought it would be as well to follow them some distance in that
direction, as they might be going to water, as about that time in the
morning is generally the time they fly towards it. After going a few
miles he surprised fourteen natives at breakfast. As soon as they saw him
they ran off at full speed. Observing some small wooden troughs with
water in them, he collected it together and gave it to his horse.
Examined the small creek for more, but could find none, and knowing the
natives would not carry it very far, and that there must be some no great
way off, went on a little further and found a fine pool of water with
ducks on it, but shallow. He then returned. This will bring the Stirling
within visiting distance. I shall remove the party down to the pool
to-morrow. Strong wind, still from the south-east.
Friday, 26th September, The Bonney. In consequence of the horses
separating during the night, I did not get a start before nine o'clock;
followed my former tracks across Younghusband's range; thence on a
bearing 25 degrees east of south; arrived at the pool of water at 5.15
p.m. Before reaching the water we crossed four red sand hills, with
spinifex, running north-east and south-west, having broad valleys
between, in which are growing melaleucas, gum-trees, and grass. After
rain they retain water, but now are quite dry. This one that we are now
camped at is much larger, having the same description of timber, with
polyganum growing round about it; the water is shallow, and will not last
long. There are a number of ducks, geese, and other water-fowl on it, but
too shy to be approached. A quantity of native smoke about. I am very ill
to-day; I am scarcely able to endure the motion of the horse thus far.
The horse that injured himself so much knocked up about two miles from
this water, but we were able to get him to it before sundown. I shall
have to kill him and eat what is good of him; it is useless to attempt
taking him on a long journey without water--he would never be able to do
it; and, as we are now upon half rations of meat, I shall kill and eat
him, so that he will not be lost altogether. Wind variable. Day
exceedingly hot.
Saturday, 27th September, Pool of Water. Before attempting to see if
there is water in the Stirling, I have sent Thring on course 20 degrees
west of south, to see if there is any creek or water between two stony
ranges of hills that lie east of Mount Morphett. At sundown he has not
returned. Wind, west. Day very hot. After sundown we shot the black horse
that was not able to travel; shall cut him up and dry him to-morrow;
there are some parts very much injured by bruises he got in his tumble.
He also showed evidence of having drunk too much water at the Bonney.
Being so exhausted and knocked up on my arrival there, I was unable to go
and see they did not drink too much, and had to leave it to others. In
all my journeys (and my horses have been much longer time without water
than this), this is the first horse that has injured himself in that way.
Sunday, 28th September, Pool of Water. About eight o'clock, Thring
returned, being out all night without food or blankets; he had found a
large gum creek in the place I had sent him to, with water in it, by
sinking in its sandy bed. I shall move the party to it to-morrow morning.
Wind variable, mostly from the north and north-east. Day very hot.
Latitude, 20 degrees 47 minutes 59 seconds.
Monday, 29th September, Pool of Water. Started at seven o'clock, course
20 degrees west of south. For the first five miles we passed over a fine
country, soil red, and in places a little sandy, with gums, grass, a
little scrub, and in places a little spinifex. After this it became
covered with spinifex until within five miles of the creek, where the
mulga commenced, with plenty of grass, which continued to its banks,
where we arrived after twenty-six miles, and had to dig six feet in the
sand before we could get sufficient water for the horses; by ten o'clock
p.m. however we got them all watered. I am inclined to believe this is a
continuation of the Taylor and other creeks coming from Forster range
more to the eastward. After my arrival here, I sent Thring up the creek
to see if he could find any surface water. After dark he returned and
informed me that he had followed it into the Crawford range, and that it
came through the range; if such is the case, there is no doubt of it
being the Taylor with the creeks from Forster range. There is no surface
water, but apparently plenty by digging in the bed of the creek, judging
from the number of native wells that he saw with water in them. At one of
the wells he saw several natives, who ran off on his approach. Latitude,
21 degrees 9 minutes 30 seconds. Wind variable. Day oppressively hot.
Tuesday, 30th September, The Taylor. As soon as I could get the horses, I
despatched Thring to the Stirling to see if there is water. I have sent
King on with him, with a pack-horse carrying two bags of water for the
horse that carries him to the Stirling. They are to follow this creek up,
and, if it is the Taylor, they are to stop to-night at our last camp on
it. Next morning King is to return to me, whilst Thring goes on to
examine the Stirling. Still all hands engaged in sinking for water for
the horses. Wind from the south-east, with heavy clouds from the
north-west and south-west, showing every indication of rain, which I
sincerely hope will fall before morning.
Wednesday, 1st October, The Taylor. About nine o'clock last night there
were a few drops of rain, and almost immediately afterwards the clouds
broke up and went off to the south-east, to our very great
disappointment. This morning there are still a few light ones about, but
very high, and no more appearance of rain. Wind still strong and blowing
from the same quarter. We have now got enough water for the horses, and
can water them all in about two hours. No natives have shown themselves
since we have been here, although their smoke was quite close to us
yesterday. In the afternoon Thring and King returned, having found a fine
pool of water about fifteen miles up the creek, four feet deep, which
will serve us for a short time. Sundown: still blowing strong from the
south-east; clouds all gone.
Thursday, 2nd October, The Taylor. Started at five minutes to eight,
course 3 degrees west of south; at five miles got through the gap in the
range, then changed to 20 degrees west of south, and after ten miles on
that course reached the water hole. The journey to-day has been over
first-rate travelling-ground, avoiding crossing the range at Mount
Morphett. The country in many places along the creek has large grassy
plains with mulga, gum-trees, and scrub, not too thick to get easily
through. Native smoke under the hills to the east. Strong cool wind
blowing all day from the south-east. A little before sundown three
natives came within three hundred yards of the camp, setting fire to the
grass as they came along. We could not get them to come any nearer.
Latitude 21 degrees 22 minutes 12 seconds.
Friday, 3rd October, Surface Water, The Taylor. Shortly after sunrise
despatched Thring and King in search of water higher up the creek. I feel
so weak and ill that I am now scarcely able to move about the camp. This
morning Frew, in searching for some of the horses, came upon the three
natives we saw last night; the moment they saw him off they went at full
speed, and he saw no more of them. They must have been sneaking about and
watching our camp during the night. Wind still blowing strong south-east.
Saturday, 4th October, Surface Water, The Taylor. It still continues to
blow very strong from the same quarter. A little before two p.m. King
returned. They had followed up this creek for a considerable distance
beyond where the Taylor joined it, and as it came more from the
south-east than I had expected, and approached near to Forster range,
Thring changed his course to the Stirling, according to my instructions.
A little before sundown they arrived at my former camp on the Stirling;
found the water hole quite dry; dug down, but could find no moisture.
They had not seen a drop of water during the whole day. In the morning
King returned to me, giving Thring's horse the water that he had carried
with him to enable him to search the Stirling down and round about the
adjoining country. Still blowing strong from the same direction. No
clouds visible.
Sunday, 5th October, Surface Water, The Taylor. Still blowing strong and
cool from the same quarter. About half-past one o'clock Thring returned;
he could find no surface water, neither any to be had by digging. He then
crossed over to the foot of the Hanson, where he saw some native smoke;
on his arriving at it he surprised a native busily engaged in sinking for
water, about six feet deep, in the bed of the creek, who, as soon as he
saw him, jumped out of the well and ran off as fast as he could. He then
tried to see what quantity of water was in the bottom of the well, but
having nothing but a quart pot to clear it out with, he was unable to
form a correct opinion, but from all appearances he thinks there will be
sufficient for our use for some time, only it will require an immense
deal of labour and time to remove the great body of sand to enable the
horses to get down to it. To-morrow I shall send Thring with McGorrerey
and Nash, with four horses and sufficient provisions for a fortnight. On
their arrival at the native well on the Hanson they will be able easily
to get water enough for their four horses that night. McGorrerey and Nash
will then clear out the well and see what quantity there is in it, while
Thring will proceed up the Hanson to see if there is water in the springs
that I discovered on my first journey through the centre. If they are dry
he will proceed with the examination of the Hanson to above where we
crossed it; he will then return to the diggers; by that time they will be
able to judge if there is sufficient water for the whole party. If there
is sufficient he will leave them to dig, and come on to me; if not, and
there is no more water higher up, he will bring them on with him, and I
shall require to try a course more to the south-east. In the afternoon
the three natives again made their appearance, bawling out as they came
near, but retreated as Mr. Kekwick went towards them to see what they
wanted. Wind still south-east.
Monday, 6th October, Surface Water, The Taylor. Shortly after sunrise
despatched Thring with McGorrerey and Nash to the Hanson. Day very hot. I
am still very ill--no improvement whatever. Wind strong from the
south-east.
Tuesday, 7th October, The Taylor. What a miserable life mine is now! I
get no rest night nor day from this terrible gnawing pain; the nights are
too long, and the days are too long, and I am so weak that I am hardly
able to move about the camp. I am truly wretched. When will this cease?
Wind, south-east.
Wednesday, 8th October, The Taylor. Wind still blowing from the
south-east; no appearance of rain.
Thursday, 9th October, The Taylor. Last night, about sundown, a native
woman and youngster came to the waterhole, rushed down, had a drink, and
were running off again, when I cooed and made signs of friendship; in a
few seconds the woman gained confidence, and, not seeing any of us
approach, went down to the hole again, and fetched up a large troughful
of water. Mr. Kekwick tried to induce her to stop, in order to gain some
information from her, but it was of no use; the faster he walked the
faster she did the same, chatting all the time, pointing to the south; so
he left her to walk at her leisure. They do not seem to be at all
frightened of us; but we cannot get any of them to come near, although we
have tried every time they have come. The day again oppressively hot. I
still feel very ill. Wind from south-east. Nothing particular has
occurred during the day. This is dreadful work to be detained here so
long. I am afraid soon I shall not be able to sit in the saddle, and then
what must I do? I feel myself getting weaker and weaker every day. I hope
the Almighty will have compassion on me, and soon send me some relief. He
is the only one that can do it--my only friend.