until after dark, we were amused by a farce enacted by the natives,
apparently to keep us quiet and render us powerless, while they
approached the water hole and got what water they required. They
commenced at some distance off, raising a heavy black smoke, (by setting
fire to the spinifex), and calling out most lustily at the top of their
voices. As the sun got lower I had the party prepared for an attack; on
they came, the fire rolling before them. We could now occasionally see
them; one was an old man with a very powerful voice, who seemed to be
speaking some incantations, with the most dreadful howl I ever heard in
my life, resembling a man suffering the extremes of torture; he was
assisted in his horrid yell by some women. As the evening got darker and
they were within one hundred and fifty yards of us, and nearly opposite
our camp, the scene was very pretty--in fact grand. In the foreground was
our camp equipment with the party armed, ready to repel an attack. On the
opposite side of the creek was a long line of flames, some mounting high
in the air, others kept at a low flickering light. In the midst of the
flames the natives appeared to be moving about, performing all sorts of
antics; behind them came the old man with his women. At every high flame
he seemed to be performing some mysterious spell, still yelling in the
former horrid tone, turning and twisting his body and legs and arms into
all sorts of shapes. They appeared like so many demons, dancing,
sporting, and enjoying themselves in the midst of flames. At last they
and their fire reached the water hole after continuing this horrid noise
for nearly two hours without intermission; as soon as they came in sight
of the water, those in front rushed down into it, satisfied themselves,
filled their troughs and bags, except the old man, who kept up his howl
until he was stopped by a drink of water. This seemed to satisfy them,
for they went off from us about three quarters of a mile and camped, I
suppose thinking they had done great things in keeping us so quiet.
Shortly after this something started the horses which made them all rush
together. I kept the party under arms till nine o'clock p.m. and then,
everything appearing to be quiet, I sent them all to bed except the one
on guard. The natives were quiet during the night. This morning the
blacks watched us collecting the horses and watering them; they then very
quietly slipped down to the water, filled their troughs, etc., and in
about half an hour went off and left us in possession of the water. They
must certainly think we are very much to be frightened by fire and a
great noise, or they would never have come in the way they did last
night; they would have been rather surprised had they attacked us, to
find that we could both speak and injure by fire. I am better pleased
that they went away quietly; it is far from my wish to injure one of them
if they will let me pass peaceably through. About two o'clock p.m. Thring
returned; he had examined up the Hanson, but could not find a drop of
water, either on the surface or by digging. On his return to where he had
left the two men to dig, he found there would not be enough water for the
whole party, as it came in so slowly; it is on the top of hard burnt
sandstone; he therefore came on to inform me of the result, leaving the
two men still there. They had been visited by the natives, who appeared
to be inclined to be rather unfriendly at first, but on showing them they
were welcome to use the water as well as the party, they became friendly,
and came over night and morning to fill their troughs and bags. They
pointed to the south-south-east, and made signs, by digging with a scoop,
that there was water in that direction, but how far he could not make
out. This is a sad disappointment to me. I dare not move the party on to
where they are digging, there is too little water. To-morrow morning I
must send Thring and King on to Anna Reservoir to see if there is any
there; if that is dry I shall be locked in until rain falls, and that may
not be before the equinox, in March, a very dismal prospect to look
forward to. I shall start Thring and King to-morrow morning; they will
reach where the diggers are to-morrow night, and will rest their horses
there on Sunday. On Monday morning start for Anna Reservoir--King, with a
pack-horse carrying water, will go on one day with Thring. The water to
be given to Thring's horse night and morning. Thring will proceed to the
Reservoir. King will return to the diggers with the empty bags, have them
filled, and next morning start with fresh horses and the water to meet
Thring on his return in case the Reservoir is dry; this is the only way
that I see it can be done. I now begin to feel the want of my health
dreadfully. Although Thring is a good bushman and does his best, poor
fellow, yet he wants experience and maturer judgment; he has had hard
work of it lately, but he is always ready to start again at any moment
that I wish. Wind, south-east. A few light clouds about.
Saturday, 11th October, The Taylor. The natives camped last night at
their former place; they seem to have given up all their buffoonery. I
suppose they see it has no effect upon us. Shortly after sunrise
despatched Thring and King. The day again oppressively hot, with a few
light clouds from the south. Wind, south-east.
Sunday, 12th October, The Taylor. The natives again encamped in their
former place last night. They came in late and started early this
morning. They always seem to go off to the westward. Day again
oppressively hot. Wind, south-east.
Monday, 13th October, The Taylor. Can see nothing of the natives this
morning; they must have gone off during the early part of last night. We
tried to get near to them yesterday afternoon by making friendly signs,
etc., but the moment we approached them they ran off, and everything we
can think of will not induce them to come near us or allow us to get near
them; they are the most timid race I have ever met with, which I think is
a very bad feature--such are often very treacherous. I should have a much
higher opinion of them if they would come boldly forward and see if we
were friends or foes. Wind from the north; heavy clouds from south and
south-west.
Tuesday, 14th October, The Taylor. During the night there was a deal of
lightning in the south and south-west; clouds about, but high and much
broken. About two o'clock p.m. they collected together and gave a very
promising appearance of a heavy fall of rain; they seemed to be coming up
all round, but the heaviest from the south and south-west. At four
o'clock p.m. it began to lighten and thunder, accompanied by a shower
which did not last above a few minutes. Sundown: still the same promising
dark, heavy, gloomy appearance. Wind, south-east.
Wednesday, 15th October, The Taylor. During the night we had a terrific
storm of lightning and thunder, which continued throughout the night and
morning at intervals, but little rain has fallen, it has merely damped
the surface of the ground. At twelve o'clock to-day it has nearly cleared
all away, leaving only a few light clouds, which is another very great
disappointment. At sundown it again became overcast. Wind variable.
Thursday, 16th October, The Taylor. Still cloudy during the night and
morning, but no rain has fallen; the heavy clouds pass south of us to the
eastward. I am now nearly helpless; my legs are unable to support the
weight of my body, and, when I do walk a little way, I am obliged to have
the assistance of one of the party, and the pains caused by walking are
most excruciating. I get little sleep night or day. I must endure my
sufferings with patience, and submit to the will of the Almighty, who, I
trust, will soon send me some relief. Wind variable.
Friday, 17th October, The Taylor. Still heavy clouds during the night and
day, but no rain will fall. Still very ill. About three o'clock p.m.
Thring returned; he has been to Anna Reservoir and found plenty of water,
and a number of natives camped at it, who ran off the moment they saw
him; he watered his horse and recrossed the range, not thinking it
prudent to camp where there were so many of them. He has met with the
same description of weather that we have had up here, thunder and
lightning with a heavy, cloudy sky, but nothing but a light shower or two
of rain. I shall move the party on to the Hanson to-morrow, and, if I am
able to ride, shall push on to-morrow. Wind variable; sky still overcast.
Saturday, 18th October, The Taylor. Started at twenty minutes to eight
for the Hanson; sky still overcast with heavy clouds. We had two light
showers during the journey. I am now so helpless that I have to be lifted
into the saddle. I endured the pain of riding for the first seventeen
miles far better than I expected; after that it became almost unbearable,
and camped at twenty-four miles, having found as much water in the rocks
of the Stirling as will do for the horses to-night and to-morrow morning,
left from a shower of rain, for which I am very thankful. I could not
have gone on more than three miles. I was then enduring the greatest pain
and agony that it is possible for a man to suffer. On being lifted from
the horse, all power was gone out of my legs, and when I attempted to put
the weight of my body on them the pain was most excruciating. Still heavy
clouds about, indicating rain. Wind, south-east.
Sunday, 19th October, The Stirling. I had a few hours' sound sleep last
night, which I find has done me a deal of good. During the early part of
the night two heavy showers of rain fell, and left plenty of water for
the horses; got them up, and saddled and proceeded to the Hanson. At
eight miles arrived there, finding the party all well; they had not been
troubled with the natives except by their coming down to the water during
the night time, and bringing into the hole a quantity of sand with them.
I had to be taken from horseback nearly in the same state as yesterday.
Wind, south-east.
Monday, 20th October, The Hanson. Started early; passed the Centre;
crossed the upper part of the Hanson, and at five miles beyond it camped.
Distance, thirty-five miles. Not a drop of rain seems to have fallen for
a long time. During the whole day's journey this has been a terrible day
of agony for me; nine hours and a half in the saddle. I had to be taken
from my horse in the same helpless state as before. My feet and legs are
now very much swollen; round the ankles they are quite black, and the
pain is dreadful. I still continue to take the bicarb of potash, but it
has little or no effect. Wind variable.
Tuesday, 21st October, South of the Centre. About sunrise started for
Anna Reservoir, and at 5.30 p.m. arrived there, completely exhausted.
Wind, variable. Heavy clouds from the south-east.
Wednesday, 22nd October, Anna Reservoir. Last night I was so completely
overcome by fatigue and exhaustion that I had no sleep during the whole
of the night, which makes me feel very ill indeed this morning. I shall
be obliged to remain here to-day and to-morrow, to see if that will
recruit my strength and enable me to perform the long journeys to the
McDonnell range. About twelve o'clock heavy thundery weather to the west
and south.
Saturday, 23rd October, Anna Reservoir. I shall rest to-day and have what
shoes there are left put on the horses. I, with William Auld, will
proceed to-morrow about ten miles in advance, to divide the long journey
into two, for I have not strength to do it in one day. Wind variable.
Friday, 24th October, Anna Reservoir. Started early, taking with me
Thring, King, and Auld, with one pack-horse to carry my tent, water, etc.
Proceeded through the thick mulga scrub, and at ten miles camped, which I
find is quite as much as I am able to do. Had my tent put up, and myself
carried into it. Sent Thring and King back with the horses to the
Reservoir, keeping Auld with me. The party will start from the Reservoir
early to-morrow morning, pick me up, and proceed to Mount Harris. Wind,
east.
Saturday, 25th October, Mulga Scrub South of Anna Reservoir. A few
minutes before ten o'clock a.m. the party arrived all right. I was soon
ready and lifted up into the saddle, and started at 10.10. During the day
it has been excessively hot. At 5.45 p.m. arrived at Mount Harris, being
nearly eight hours in the saddle, which is far more than I am able to
endure in my terribly weak state. It is between my shoulder-blades and
the small of my back that I am so much affected while riding. When the
pain from them becomes unbearable I endeavour to get on as far as I can
by supporting my weight upon my arms until they give way. I arrived here
in a state of utmost exhaustion; so much so that I was quite unable to
eat a single mouthful of anything. After we had the horses unpacked, a
few natives made their appearance on the side of the mount, calling out
something and pointing to the north-east. Sent Thring and King to see if
they could make anything of them, but they soon ran down the other side
of the mount, and, when seen again, were marching off in the direction
they had pointed out. They had taken good care before leaving to use
nearly all the water in the crevices of the granite rocks; they left
about a quart. Finding it quite impossible to remain so long in the
saddle as I have done to-day, I got Mr. Kekwick and some of the others to
construct a stretcher during the night, which I hope will enable me to do
a long journey to-morrow. Wind, south-east.
Sunday, 26th October, Mount Harris. Had the stretcher placed between two
horses. Had great difficulty before we could get two that would allow it
to be passed between them. At last succeeded in getting two that we
thought would do very well, as they seemed to go very quietly with it. I
shall continue on horseback until I find that I have got enough of it.
Started a little after sunrise. I found I could continue two hours and a
half in the saddle without fatiguing myself too much. Having done this, I
sent to the rear of the party for the stretcher, when, to my great
disappointment and vexation, I found that a short time before something
had annoyed one of the horses, which set to and kicked it all to pieces,
which is a great misfortune. I continued in the saddle, and proceeded
until I was exhausted, which happened at the end of fifteen miles, when I
was compelled to stop. Keeping Auld with me, and some water, I sent on
the party and all the horses to Mount Hay. If they find water they are to
camp and return for me to-morrow; if not, they are to push on to the
Hamilton Spring; if that is gone, they will have to cross the range to
Brinkley Bluff. I find myself getting weaker and weaker every day. I am
very ill indeed. Wind, south-east.
Monday, 27th October, Hills North of Mount Hay. About 11.30 a.m. King and
Nash returned for me. Thring had found water in one of the gullies, but
the approach to it was very rough and stony indeed. Thring had gone to
see if there was any water in the clay-pans that I had camped at on my
journey up, and if there is, will take the party over there, and will
send one of the men to meet me and inform me of it. The distance from
here to the water is ten miles. Had the horses saddled; mounted, and
proceeded towards it. At the end of two hours the motion of the horse
became so dreadful to me, and the pain I was suffering from was such as
no language can describe; but I still continued in the saddle, and,
within a mile and a half of the water, met Frew, whom Thring had sent to
say that he had found plenty of water in the clay-pans, with green grass,
and that the party had moved on to it. Distance from where we were then
to the clay-pans, six miles further. I could no more sit in the saddle
that distance than I could fly; I am now already completely exhausted,
and have still a mile and a half to ride before I can reach the other
water. To that I must go, and see what a night's rest will do in the
morning. While taking a drink of water, I was seized with a violent fit
of vomiting blood and mucus, which lasted about five minutes, and nearly
killed me. Sent Frew on to the party. Went on the best way I could with
the other three to the water. Arrived there feeling worse than I have
ever done before. I have told King and Nash to remain with me in case of
my dying during the night, as it would be lonely for one young man to be
here by himself. Wind, south-east.
Tuesday, 28th October, Mount Hay. Started in the cool of the morning, and
in two hours reached where the party were camped, so much exhausted and
so completely done up that I could not speak a word--the power of speech
has completely left me. I was lifted from the saddle and placed under the
shade of a mulga bush. In about ten minutes I recovered my speech. I find
that I can no longer sit on horseback; gave orders for some of the party
to make a sort of reclining seat, to be carried between two horses, one
before the other; also gave orders that a horse was to be shot at
sundown, as we are getting rather short of meat, and I hope the change of
beef tea made from fresh meat will give me some increase of strength, for
I am now reduced to a perfect skeleton, a mere shadow. At sundown had the
horse shot; fresh meat to the party is now a great treat. I am denied
participating in that pleasure, from the dreadful state in which my mouth
still is. I can chew nothing, and all that I have been living on is a
little beef tea, and a little boiled flour, which I am obliged to
swallow. To-night I feel very ill, and very, very low indeed. Wind,
south-east, with a few clouds.
Wednesday, 29th October, Clay-pans East of Mount Hay. This morning I feel
a little relieved in comparison with my exhausted state of yesterday. I
had a very troubled night's rest. All hands cutting up the horse, and
hanging up the meat to dry. Thring and Nash out for two long poles to fix
the chair in, which they succeeded in finding. At twelve o'clock had all
the meat of the horse cut up and hung up to dry. Day oppressively hot.
Wind, south-east. Clouds.
Thursday, 30th October, Clay-pans East of Mount Hay. I think I am a
little better this morning, but still very weak and helpless. Find that
the chair will not answer the purpose, and must have a stretcher instead.
Wind, south-east.
Friday, 31st October, Clay-pans East of Mount Hay. I felt a little
improvement this morning, which I hope will continue; and I think I have
reached the turn of this terrible disease. On Tuesday night I certainly
was in the grasp of death; a cold clammy perspiration, with a tremulous
motion, kept creeping slowly over my body during the night, and
everything near me had the smell of decaying mortality in the last stage
of decomposition and of the grave. I sincerely thank the Almighty Giver
of all Good, that He, in His infinite goodness and mercy, gave me
strength and courage to overcome the grim and hoary-headed king of
terrors, and has kindly permitted me yet to live a little longer in this
world. Auld, who was in attendance upon me on that night, informed me
that my breath smelt the same as the atmosphere of a room in which a
dead body had been kept for some days. What a sad difference there is
from what I am now and what I was when the party left North Adelaide! My
right hand nearly useless to me by the accident from the horse; total
blindness after sunset--although the moon shines bright to others, to me
it is total darkness--and nearly blind during the day; my limbs so weak
and painful that I am obliged to be carried about; my body reduced to
that of a living skeleton, and my strength that of infantine weakness
--a sad, sad wreck of former days. Wind variable.
Saturday, 1st November, Clay-pans East of Mount Hay. Although in such a
weak state, I shall try if I can ride in the stretcher as far as Hamilton
Springs. Started early; found the stretcher to answer very well. On
arriving at the springs, saw that there was not sufficient water for the
horses, and, as I had stood this part of the journey so well, made up my
mind to cross the range to Brinkley Bluff. Proceeded, and arrived there
about five o'clock p.m. I have stood the long journey far better than I
expected, but feel very tired and worn out. Wind variable. Cloudy.
Sunday, 2nd November, Brinkley Bluff, The Hugh. Got a few hours' good
sleep during the night, and feel a good deal better this morning. Day
still cloudy. Wind variable.
Monday, 3rd November, Brinkley Bluff, The Hugh. Started at 7.30 a.m. for
Owen Springs. Saw where one of the horses died that I was compelled to
leave behind on coming up. As there is only the hair of his mane and tail
to be seen, and not a single bone, I am inclined to think that he has
been killed, carried off, and eaten by the natives. I expect the other
one has shared the same fate. At 2.20 p.m. arrived at the springs. Plenty
of water. I have stood the journey very well, but am very tired. Wind,
south-east.
Tuesday, 4th November, Owen Springs, The Hugh. Started at 7.20 a.m.,
passing through the gorge of the Waterhouse range. At 1.20 arrived at the
springs under the conglomerate rock, a mile and a half north-east of the
gorge in James range. I feel the shaking of the stretcher very much, and
am again very tired, but am glad to find that I am getting a little
stronger. Wind, south-east. The clouds are all gone.
Wednesday, 5th November, Spring, Conglomerate Rock, The Hugh. Started at
7.25 a.m. Passed through the gorge of James range and proceeded to the
side creek in which water was obtained on coming up. Found some still
there. Camped. Sent four of the party to clear out the hole; in the
meantime sent Thring up the side creek to see if there is any surface
water left from the showers of rain that have fallen here some short time
ago. Since leaving the McDonnell range we have had plenty of green grass,
showing that rain has fallen some time back; it has made no impression
upon the large creek, which is quite dry. In a short time Thring
returned; he has seen as much as will do for forty horses to-night, which
is a good thing. Sent him up with them, and watered the remainder at this
hole, into which the water comes very slowly, in consequence of the main
creek having none in its bed below the sand. I again feel tired from the
shaking of the horses and the stretcher. The swelling of my gums and the
black blisters, which have been so very painful for such a long time
back, are slowly giving way before some vegetable food which I have been
able to get since coming into the green, grassy country; I hope it will
soon cure me. My teeth are still loose, but it is a great thing to get a
little relief from a great mouthful of swollen, blistered, and most
painful gums. When my mouth was closed I had scarcely room for my tongue;
the blisters are now much reduced. Wind, south-east.
Thursday, 6th November, The Hugh. Started at 7.20 towards the Finke; at
five p.m. met with some water in a clay-pan, and camped. I am a little
stronger to-day, and feel that I am gradually improving. Wind,
south-east. Night and morning cool.
Friday, 7th November, North of the Finke. Proceeded to Pascoe Springs in
the Finke; found plenty of water and camped. Day oppressively hot. Wind,
south-east.
Saturday, 8th November, Pascoe Springs, The Finke. Proceeded to Sullivan
Creek and found sufficient water to do for us until Monday morning, and
this being a place for feed for the horses, I shall remain here until
that time. I feel very tired and sore after this rough week's work, and
am glad of a day's rest. I feel a gradual improvement in my health and
strength, which I hope will continue to increase. Wind variable, mostly
from south-east.
Sunday, 9th November, Sullivan Creek. During the night had a few drops of
rain; heavy clouds to the west, north-west, north, north-east, and east.
Wind blowing strong and variable. Sundown: the sky overcast with heavy
clouds.
Monday, 10th November, Sullivan Creek. Some of the horses missing this
morning. Did not get a start till nine o'clock a.m. Day oppressively hot.
Crossed the Finke three times, and arrived at Polly Springs, where there
is plenty of water. Camped. Wind, south-east.
Tuesday, 11th November, Polly Springs, The Finke. Proceeded to Marchant
Springs. Camped. The water is low and rather boggy. Dug a place about
eighteen inches deep in the firm ground, and the water came boiling up. I
am happy to find that I am gaining a little strength again. I was able to
walk two or three steps by leaning upon two of the party, but the pain
was very severe. Wind, south-east; a few clouds about.
Wednesday, 12th November, Marchant Springs, The Finke. As I am not
certain of water at the next two camps, I will rest the horses as well as
myself here to-day, for we both require it very much; it will enable them
to stand a long push if required. A number of showers of rain seem to
have fallen here this month. Wind, south-east.
Thursday, 13th November, Marchant Springs, The Finke. Started at 7.40.
Proceeded towards the Goyder, and at nine miles found myself in as dry a
country as ever; not a drop of rain seems to have fallen here for upwards
of twelve months. On arriving at the Goyder found a little moisture at
the bottom of the sand in the rocks--not enough for the horses. Pushed on
towards the Coglin, and at dark camped in the mulga scrub without water.
Day most oppressively hot. Light wind from south-east.
Friday, 14th November, Mulga Scrub. Started at six o'clock a.m. Examined
the different creeks in which I found water on my journey to the north
but there was not a drop. At twelve miles reached the Coglin--none there.
Country all in the same dry state. Proceeded on to the Lindsay, where I
am sure of water. At four o'clock arrived there and found plenty. Camped.
Thanks be to God, I am once more within the boundary of South Australia!
I little expected it about a fortnight ago. If the summer rain has fallen
to the south of this, there will be little difficulty in my getting down.
I am again suffering very much from exhaustion, caused by a severe attack
of dysentery, which has thrown me back a good deal in the strength I was
collecting so quickly, but I hope it will not continue long. Wind,
south-east.
Saturday, 15th November, The Lindsay. At day-break I have sent Thring to
the Stevenson to see if there is water there, either on the surface or by
digging in the sand; if there is I shall move the party over there
to-day, and on Monday morning start for the Hamilton (I expect no water
between); and if not, I shall remain here till that time and push for the
Hamilton. About ten o'clock a.m. he returned and reported no water, only
a little moisture on the top of the clay beneath the sand. Day very hot.
I still continue to be very unwell. Wind, south-east.
Sunday, 16th November, The Lindsay. Day oppressively hot. Light winds,
south-east.
Monday, 17th November, The Lindsay. Started soon after sunrise, crossed
the Stevenson and the Ross; both quite dry. Proceeded across Bagot range
to the gum water-hole; that is also dry. Found a little rain water in one
of the small creeks, but not enough for all the horses. The day being
excessively hot, the journey very rough and stony, and many of them lame
from want of shoes, also it being near sundown, and there being a little
green grass about, I have camped. Wind variable.