feel but little better this morning, and as the horses require rest, I
shall remain here to-day. Shortly after sunrise, three natives came close
to the camp; Mr. Kekwick went up to them. Two were of the number of those
who visited us the first time at the large reedy swamp. They were very
quiet, and seemed very friendly; they had come to have a look at us, and
satisfy their curiosity. I feel a little easier to-night. Light wind,
variable.
Saturday, 16th August, Mussel Camp. Started at nine o'clock. Another of
my horses very ill; I think that many of them must have eaten some
poisonous plant on the Roper and its tributaries; I never saw horses fall
away so rapidly before. The worst are those that have been in good
condition throughout the journey, and the work they have been doing since
I commenced my return journey any horses ought to have done with ease. I
have never travelled more than eight hours a day, and frequently not more
than six hours. In a day or two they fall away to perfect skeletons, are
quite stupid, and hardly able to walk. I am glad that I am now quit of
the Roper, and hope that I shall have no more of them taken ill. If I can
only get the weak ones beyond Newcastle Water, where I expect to get some
new grass for them (from the June and July rains), they would soon
recover. My old horses are all looking well, although they have had to
carry the heaviest loads throughout the journey. I should have been in a
sad way without them--they are my mainstay. Arrived at the Rock Camp,
River Strangways, at two o'clock without having to leave any more. I feel
a little better to-day, but the motion of the horse has been very severe
throughout the journey. The water at this camp is drying up very rapidly:
it is reduced three feet in depth since we left, and I am very much
afraid it will be all gone in Purdie Ponds--if such is the case, I shall
lose all the weak horses. Wind in strong puffs, variable.
Sunday, 17th August, Rock Camp. Resting horses. Winds light and variable.
Monday, 18th August, Rock Camp. Three of the best horses are missing this
morning--they are the three leading horses--while feeding; and I have
never known them to be away from the others before. The three
horse-keepers have returned at half-past ten, and can see nothing of
them; the ground is so hard that their tracks leave but little
impression, so that they might have passed them unseen. Mounted Thring
and King on fresh horses to round the feeding-tracks again, and at
half-past twelve they returned with them. They happened to come upon
their tracks on a small piece of sandy ground on the opposite side of the
creek; they traced them to a large permanent water lagoon, deep and
broad, with water-lilies growing round it, and a number of ducks upon it;
it is about three quarters of a mile west-south-west from this camp. Not
seeing them there they followed their tracks for another mile, and there
found them, at which I was very glad, for they are three of my very best
horses, on which I am placing my dependence for carrying me back. I felt
very uneasy at their being away, thinking that the natives might have cut
them off during night. Saddled and proceeded to my first camp, north of
the Rocky Gorge, but was disappointed to find all the water gone, which I
did not expect. Proceeded a mile further, and found as much as will do
for a drink for the horses to-night and to-morrow morning. Camped. Light
winds, variable.
Tuesday, 19th August, First Camp North of Rocky Gorge. Started at eight
o'clock, proceeding to the Rocky Gorge, and camped. This water has shrunk
considerably since we left it, and I have now little hopes of there being
any water in Purdie Ponds. If there is not I shall require to push
through to Daly Waters. Light winds, south-east.
Wednesday, 20th August, Rocky Gorge, River Strangways. If there is no
water in Purdie Ponds, I have six horses that will not be able to go
through to Daly Waters; they must be two nights without it, and that they
will not be able to stand. I have therefore determined to send Thring and
King to Purdie Ponds to-morrow, to see if there is any water, and also to
examine another place that I observed in coming through, where I think
there may be water. If they find none at either of these places, I shall
be compelled to leave the six weak horses at the camp, where there is and
will be plenty of food and water for them. To attempt taking them
through, and be compelled to leave them behind where there will be no
chance of their getting a drop of water, would, I consider, be a great
cruelty; here they are safe, and there is a chance of their being picked
up by the next party. If Thring succeeds in getting water, I shall still
endeavour to take them on. I am yet suffering very much from scurvy; my
teeth and gums are so bad that it causes me excessive pain to eat
anything, and what I do eat I am unable to masticate properly, which
causes me to feel very ill indeed. Light winds, south-east.
Thursday, 21st August, Rocky Gorge, River Strangways. At 7.30 despatched
Thring and King to see if there is any water in the Ponds. Resting
horses, repairing saddle-bags, etc. Day hot, night and morning cool;
wind, south-east. My sight has been very much impaired during the last
month; after sundown, I am in total darkness. Even though the moon is
full, and shining bright and clear to the others, to me it is darkness; I
can see her dimly, but she gives me no more light than if she had been
painted on a piece of canvas. I am now quite incapable of taking
observations at night, and I am most thankful this did not happen before
I was enabled to reach the ocean, as the most of my observations are
taken at night. After the equinox the sun is too high to be measured by
the sextant in the artificial horizon.
Friday, 22nd August, Rocky Gorge, River Strangways. Day exceedingly hot.
Wind still from south-east, sometimes blowing in strong puffs. A little
after two o'clock Thring and King returned with the good news that there
is still water in Purdie Ponds; there is as much as will do for us until
Monday morning. I am very glad of it, for it will enable me to get the
weak horses through to Newcastle Water. After that I hope they will soon
recover, for I expect that rain has fallen to the southward of that, and
trust I shall get some fresh feed for them, which they require very much.
I still feel very unwell to-day.
Saturday, 23rd August, Rocky Gorge, River Strangways. Started at
half-past seven, and at four o'clock arrived at the Ponds. The day has
been extremely hot, but about noon some heavy clouds came up from the
east and south-east, which made it a little cooler, and enabled me to get
all the weak horses through; one of them showed symptoms of giving in
before we reached the Ponds, but we got him in all right. I shall remain
here until Monday morning, when I shall have again another long journey
without water (thirty-five miles) to Daly Waters. At sundown the clouds
all cleared away, without giving us any rain. Wind, south-east. This
day's journey has completely knocked me up. At one time I thought I
should never have been able to reach this water. I had no idea I was in
such a weak state, and am very doubtful of my being able to stand the
journey back to Adelaide; whatever may occur I must submit to the will of
Divine Providence.
Sunday, 24th August, Purdie Ponds. Day hot. Wind light, from south-east.
About noon a few clouds came up, but they all disappeared about sundown.
Very little improvement in me to-day.
Monday, 25th August, Purdie Ponds. Started at seven o'clock on my former
tracks towards Daly Waters. At seven miles south of the Blue-grass Swamp
saw a heavy fog to the east, in the same place that I saw the black fog
in coming up; it must be caused by a large body of water in that
direction. The natives have been running our tracks, and have burnt the
grass on both sides of it for some distance. There seem to be very few of
them about this part of the country. At half-past four passed the large
swamp that receives the surplus water of Daly Waters, with water still in
it, but very much reduced. At a quarter past five o'clock arrived at Daly
Waters; found them also very much reduced, but still an abundant supply.
Got all the weak horses through, which is more than I expected. This long
journey has again completely exhausted me, and I feel very ill. Wind,
south-east, with a few clouds.
Tuesday, 26th August, Daly Waters. I feel a little better this morning,
but still very weak and languid. I shall give the horses and myself a
rest to-day, for I am quite unable to ride. Wind, south-east, with a few
clouds from the same direction.
Wednesday, 27th August, Daly Waters. Last evening, about half-past seven,
Thring observed a comet bearing about 20 degrees west of north, and about
15 degrees above the horizon; the tail is short and the nucleus large. I
regret that I am unable to see it. I cannot now see a single star,
everything at night is total darkness. I should like to take some
observations of it, but I am quite debarred from doing so. Started at
half-past seven and proceeded along the Daly Waters, in which we saw an
abundant supply. On reaching McGorrerey Ponds, and finding plenty of
water, camped. I feel a good deal better to-day, but the motion of
travelling on horseback is still very severe. Although Daly Waters is
much reduced, there is still enough to last six months longer, even
should no rain fall. These ponds will also hold out about three months
longer. Wind, strong from south-east, with a few clouds.
Thursday, 28th August, McGorrerey Ponds. Proceeded to King's Ponds and
camped. Find that the natives have been running our tracks, and have
burnt large patches of grass; at this camp they have burnt it round. The
water here is nearly all dried up; a few days later and I should not have
got a drop. There is enough to last me to-night and to-morrow morning.
Strong wind from south-east. The natives have cut on one side of my
initials, on a gum-tree by the water where we camp, a figure resembling
(a stylised flying bird).
Friday, 29th August, King's Ponds. Started at quarter past seven;
proceeded to Frew's Pond, but was disappointed to find it quite dry. Dug
down two feet, but could find no water. Proceeded on a straight course
for Newcastle Water. Crossed Sturt Plains, and after dark camped on them.
I would have gone to Howell Ponds, but finding the others so nearly dry,
I was doubtful of them. A little before sundown, after I had passed them
some distance, I observed flocks of pigeons flying towards them, showing
that there is water still there. It is too late for me to go there now,
Newcastle Water being the nearest. Wind, south-east. I feel a little
better than I did on the former long journey.
Saturday, 30th August, Sturt Plains. At dawn of day started, being still
some eight miles from Newcastle Water. The horses look very wretched this
morning, especially the weak ones. About half-past eight arrived there,
and found an abundant supply of water, though much reduced. No rain seems
to have fallen since we left this, upwards of four months ago. A short
time before we arrived a number of natives were observed following at a
distance behind the rear of the party. They followed us on to our old
camp, when I sent Mr. Kekwick up to them to keep them amused until I had
the horses unpacked and taken down to water. By giving them a
handkerchief he obtained a stone tomahawk from them. They are a fine race
of men, tall, stout, and muscular, but not very handsome in features.
They were very quiet. By making signs they were made to understand they
were not to come nearer to our camp than about one hundred and fifty
yards. They remained until noon staring at us and our horses. Some who
could not see us very well got into the gum-trees, and had a long look at
us. They were seventeen in number; four of them were boys, one of them
much lighter than the others, nearly a light yellow. At noon they all
went off, after remaining for four hours. Once more have I returned, if I
may so call it, into old country again, after an absence of four months
and ten days, exploring a new and splendid country from this to the
Indian ocean without receiving a single drop of rain, or without any
hostilities from the natives. I have returned from the coast to this in
one month and three days. The horses have been one night without water,
but got it early next morning, between eight and nine o'clock, and they
would not have been without it if I could have seen to have guided the
party after sundown. After the rays of the sun have left the earth, all
is total darkness to me, even if there is a moon; I was therefore
compelled to camp until daylight. Had my horses been in anything like a
fair condition to have done a day's journey, and my health permitting, I
could have accomplished the journey from the coast to this in three
weeks. Before sundown we were again visited by our black friends; this
time two old men accompanied them, whom Mr. Kekwick recognised as among
those who visited the Depot at Howell Ponds during my absence. They all
came up this time painted in red and white, and after remaining a short
time went quietly to their camp. Wind, south-east.
Sunday, 31st August, North Newcastle Water. The natives again visited us
this morning, and after remaining some time went off quietly. Wind,
south-east. Few clouds at sundown.
Monday, 1st September, North Newcastle Water. Whilst saddling the horses
this morning the natives again came up, and were anxious to know if they
might be permitted to visit the camp after we were gone; that of course I
had no objection to. They have been very quiet and peaceable during our
stay; but I suppose they observed that both night and day we were always
prepared to resist any aggression on their part. Started at seven
o'clock, and proceeded by the base of the Ashburton range to my former
camp on the East Newcastle Water. Distance, twenty-five miles; course
nearly south-east. Arrived at four o'clock and found the water much
reduced, but still in great abundance. Not a drop of rain has fallen
since we left. There are, apparently, two tribes of natives on this
water, one inhabiting the north and the other the south; for, on those of
the north visiting us, we could not recognise any of those we saw on the
southern water. One of the natives was a very amusing little fellow,
rather less than five feet high, having a very peculiar and comical
countenance and antics that would have eclipsed Liston in his best days,
and as supple in the movements of his joints as any clown on the stage.
He imitated every movement we made, and burlesqued them to a very high
degree, causing great laughter to his companions and us. He seems to be
the buffoon of the tribe. The other natives delighted in making sport of
him, by ridiculing the shortness of his stature and laughing at him
behind his back. Wind, south-east.
Tuesday, 2nd September, East Newcastle Water. Proceeded to Lawson Creek,
but found no water in the lower part. Went up into the gorge, and there
found as much as will do; it also is nearly gone, but there are still a
few feet of it. I had no idea that such a body of water could have
evaporated so quickly, which now makes me very doubtful of the waters to
the southward. Wind, south-east.
Wednesday, 3rd September, Lawson Creek. As I now do not expect to get
water before I reach the Hunter or the Burke, a distance of upwards of
forty miles, I shall give the horses one day's rest to enable them to do
the journey. I expect to lose some of the weak ones; to delay longer is
only making the risk the greater. This must be an uncommonly dry season;
not a single drop of rain has fallen in this part of the country since we
left it. Last year we had three days' rain about the middle of June, and
I was in hopes there would be the same this year, but am very much
disappointed. I shall lighten the horses as much as I can possibly do, by
leaving the water-bags, which are nearly useless, blankets, rugs, and
cloths, as well as any other articles that can be done without.
Provisions I MUST carry. I sincerely hope the forthcoming equinox will
give me some rain and enable me to return. I feel a little better, but
very weak and feeble from the severe attack of scurvy. My mouth and gums
are so sore that to eat any food gives me the greatest pain. I cannot
chew it, and am obliged to swallow it as it is, which makes me very ill.
I am the only one of the party that is at present troubled with it. Wind,
east.
Thursday, 4th September, Lawson Creek. Started at 6.40, and proceeded to
the Hawker, but found no water there; thence to Watson Creek, none there;
thence to Powell, Gleeson, and a number of other creeks that had water in
them last year, but there is not a drop. Continued on to the creek that I
camped at coming up. Arrived at 6.45 p.m.; found that water also gone,
although it was a large deep hole when we were here before. Camped. Weak
horses nearly done up. About 8.30 p.m. sent Thring up the creek to see if
he could find any water. In three hours he returned: he had followed it
up into the rough rocky hills until he could get no further, without
seeing a drop. Wind, east. A few clouds at sundown coming from the south
and south-east.
Friday, 5th September, Branch Creek of Hunter. Had to watch the horses
during the night to prevent them straying in search of water. Started at
5.40 a.m. for the Hunter; in an hour and three quarters found some water
in its bed. Camped, and will give the horses the benefit of it to-day.
Wind variable.
Saturday, 6th September, The Hunter. Proceeded to the Burke, and found an
abundant supply of water in the large iron conglomerate water hole that I
discovered last year; it is reduced about four feet, but is still deep,
and will last yet a long time without rain. I should say it was permanent
without a doubt. Camped. From here I shall require to send on in advance
to see if there is water in the Tomkinson; if not, I shall require to
rest the horses here for three or four days to enable them to do the
journey to Attack Creek without it. If there is none in the Tomkinson, I
do not expect to find any in the Morphett. Native smoke about. They have
burnt a great portion of the grass about here. The day has been
oppressively hot and close. Wind from the east-south-east, with heavy
clouds from the south-east to the south-west at sundown.
Sunday, 7th September, The Burke. After sunrise the clouds all gone. At
6.30 despatched Thring and King to the Tomkinson to see if there is any
water. The day again oppressively hot, with clouds from south and
south-east. Wind variable.
Monday, 8th September, The Burke. The clouds continued to come up du-ring
the night, but after sunrise they cleared off; still no rain. Between one
and two p.m. Thring and King returned with the disheartening tidings that
there was no water in or about the Tomkinson. I shall give the horses two
more days' rest, and push through to Attack Creek, where I am almost sure
of there being water. The wind variable, sometimes north, east, and west.
The clouds are broken up, and are nearly all gone, without leaving rain.
Tuesday, 9th September, The Burke. Resting horses, mending saddle-bags,
etc. Wind, north and variable, with a few clouds from the west and
south-west.
Wednesday, 10th September, The Burke. Thring on his return last Monday
saw some water about four miles higher up this creek, nearly on our
course for the Tomkinson; to that I shall go to-day, and make a start for
Attack Creek to-morrow morning. Every mile now gained is of the utmost
importance to me. Started early, to get there in the cool of the morning.
In an hour and a half arrived at the water and camped. It is situated at
the foot of some ironstone conglomerate rock, and will last a week or two
longer. It has a number of small fish in it. The soil on its banks is
light and a little sandy, with spinifex and grass mixed through it. Wind,
north and north-west; the clouds have all disappeared. This morning I
again feel very ill. I am very doubtful of my being able to reach the
settled districts. Should anything happen to me, I keep everything ready
for the worst. My plan is finished, and my journal brought up every
night, so that no doubt whatever can be thrown upon what I have done. All
the difficult country is now passed, and what remains is well known to
those who have been out with me before; so that there is no danger of the
party not finding their way back, should I be taken away. The only
difficulty they will have to encounter is the scarcity of water, caused
by the extreme dryness of the season.
Thursday, 11th September, The Upper Burke. Started at 6.40; crossed the
Tomkinson and small grassy plains; ascended the north spur of the
Whittington range. After sundown, it becoming quite dark to me, so that I
could not see the horse's head before me, I was compelled to halt on the
top of the range, four miles from my former camp on the Morphett. Day
excessively hot; myself and horses have felt it very much. Wind variable,
from the north and north-east.
Friday, 12th September, Top of Whittington Range. At break of day
started over the range to my former camp, but found all the water gone.
Proceeded down the Morphett, and at four miles found a little in the
sandy bottom of what had once been a large hole. There is as much as
will do for me until to-morrow by digging. All the clouds gone; not the
slightest appearance of rain. The country on fire all round us. Wind,
north-west and variable. Day exceedingly hot.
Saturday, 13th September, The Morphett. Started at 7.20, crossed the
other spur of Whittington range, and at 11.20 arrived at Attack Creek.
There is still an abundant supply of water, although much reduced--much
lower than I have ever seen it. In about an hour and a half after
camping, some native women came to the lower end of the hole where
Billiatt was getting some water. The moment they saw him they went off at
full speed. In a short time afterwards one man made his appearance and
came marching up towards us. Sent Mr. Kekwick to meet him. As he
approached him the black became stationary, and moving back a little,
beckoned to some others to come up. Mr. Kekwick observed five or six
others down at the lower end of the water hole, one of whom came up. I
then sent Frew to Mr. Kekwick. They approached very cautiously, but as
soon as they caught sight of Mr. Kekwick's gun, he could not get near
them. On laying it down he got a little nearer; they shrank back when he
attempted to touch them. Taking out a small strip of white calico which
he had in his pocket, he tore it into two and held it out to them. They
wished to possess it, but did not fancy coming too close to him for it.
He made a sign that he wished to tie it round their wrists; they
gradually approached nearer, holding out their arms at full length, and
so frightened were they to come close, that he had to reach out his full
length to tie them on; after which they gained a little more confidence,
pointed towards the gun, imitated the report with their mouth, and held
up three fingers, signifying that they recollected my first visit and
number, which they do not seem to have forgotten, and seem to dread the
appearance of a gun. The first one that came up had a very long spear,
with a flat, sharp, and barbed point. They were two elderly stout men,
one very much diseased and lame. They remained a long time looking at us.
None of the others came up. In a little more than three hours they went
off and we saw no more of them during the evening. Wind, south-west, with
heavy clouds from the same direction and from the south.