the south-west to see if he can get round the marsh. If it is firm ground
I shall endeavour to make the mouth of the river by that way. After a
long search he has returned and informs me that it is impracticable,
being too boggy for the horses. As the great object of the expedition is
now attained, and the mouth of the river already well known, I do not
think it advisable to waste the strength of my horses in forcing them
through, neither do I see what object I should gain by doing so; they
have still a very long and fatiguing journey in recrossing the continent
to Adelaide, and my health is so bad that I am unable to bear a long
day's ride. I shall, therefore, cross this creek and see if I can get
along by the sea-beach or close to it. Started and had great difficulty
in getting the horses over, although we cut a large quantity of grass,
putting it on the banks and on logs of wood which were put into it. We
had a number bogged, and I was nearly losing one of my best horses, and
was obliged to have him pulled out with ropes; after the loss of some
time we succeeded in getting them all over safely. Proceeded on a
west-north-west course over a firm ground of black alluvial soil. At two
miles came upon an open part of the beach, went on to it, and again found
the mud quite impassable for horses; in the last mile we have had some
rather soft ground. Stopped the party, as this travelling is too much for
the horses, and, taking Thring with me, rode two miles to see if the
ground was any firmer in places; found it very soft where the salt water
had covered it, in others not so bad. Judging from the number of shells
banked up in different places, the sea must occasionally come over this.
I saw at once that this would not do for the weak state in which my
horses were, and I therefore returned to where I had left the party,
resolving to recross the continent to the City of Adelaide. I now had an
open place cleared, and selecting one of the tallest trees, stripped it
of its lower branches, and on its highest branch fixed my flag, the Union
Jack, with my name sewn in the centre of it. When this was completed, the
party gave three cheers, and Mr. Kekwick then addressed me,
congratulating me on having completed this great and important
undertaking, to which I replied. Mr. Waterhouse also spoke a few words on
the same subject, and concluded with three cheers for the Queen and three
for the Prince of Wales. At one foot south from the foot of the tree is
buried, about eight inches below the ground, an air-tight tin case, in
which is a paper with the following notice:
"South Australian Great Northern Exploring Expedition.
"The exploring party, under the command of John McDouall Stuart, arrived
at this spot on the 25th day of July, 1862, having crossed the entire
Continent of Australia from the Southern to the Indian Ocean, passing
through the centre. They left the City of Adelaide on the 26th day of
October, 1861, and the most northern station of the Colony on 21st day of
January, 1862. To commemorate this happy event, they have raised this
flag bearing his name. All well. God save the Queen!"
[Here follow the signatures of myself and party.]
As this bay has not been named, I have taken this opportunity of naming
it Chambers Bay, in honour of Miss Chambers, who kindly presented me with
the flag which I have planted this day, and I hope this may be the first
sign of the dawn of approaching civilization. Exactly this day nine
months the party left North Adelaide. Before leaving, between the hours
of eleven and twelve o'clock, they had lunch at Mr. Chambers' house; John
Bentham Neals, Esquire, being present, proposed success to me, and wished
I might plant the flag on the north-west coast. At the same hour of the
day, nine months after, the flag was raised on the shores of Chambers
Bay, Van Diemen Gulf. On the bark of the tree on which the flag is placed
is cut--DIG ONE FOOT--S. We then bade farewell to the Indian Ocean, and
returned to Charles Creek, where we had again great difficulty in getting
the horses across, but it was at last accomplished without accident. We
have passed numerous and recent tracks of natives to-day; they are still
burning the country at some distance from the coast. Wind, south-east.
Latitude, 12 degrees 14 minutes 50 seconds.
...
RETURN.
Saturday, 26th July, Charles Creek, Chambers Bay, Van Diemen Gulf. This
day I commence my return, and feel perfectly satisfied in my own mind
that I have done everything in my power to obtain as extensive a
knowledge of the country as the strength of my party will allow me. I
could have made the mouth of the river, but perhaps at the expense of
losing many of the horses, thus increasing the difficulties of the return
journey. Many of them are so poor and weak, from the effects of the
worms, that they have not been able for some time to carry anything like
a load, and I have been compelled to make the (symbol crescent over C)
horses stand the brunt of the work of the expedition. As yet not one of
them has failed; they have all done their work in excellent style. The
sea has been reached, which was the great object of the expedition, and a
practicable route found through a splendid country from Newcastle Water
to it, abounding, for a great part of the way, in running streams well
stocked with fish--and this has been accomplished at a season of the year
during which we have not had one drop of rain. Started, following my
tracks back. Passed my former camp on the Thring; went on and crossed it.
Proceeded on my east course to the west, about one mile and a half, to
some small green marshy plains of black alluvial soil, with a spring in
the centre, covered with fine green grass. Camped. Wind, south. Latitude,
12 degrees 30 minutes 21 seconds.
Sunday, 27th July, Small Grassy Plains. Day rather warm; mosquitoes
terrible; no sleep last night; never found them so bad before; not a
breath of wind to drive them away.
Monday, 28th July, Small Grassy Plains. Started at 7.40, course 25
degrees west of south, for my camp of the eighteenth instant. At ten
miles struck my tracks, thus avoiding the boggy creeks that flow into the
large marsh. On this course passed five small black alluvial plains,
covered with grass, three of them having springs with water on the
surface. They lie between slightly elevated country of light-brown soil,
having stringy-bark and gums, with occasionally a thin scrub abounding in
grass. On the plains there is occasionally a little of the volcanic rock
cropping out. Followed my former tracks to the camp on the Lily Marsh,
and remained for the night. We all passed a miserable night with the
mosquitoes. My hands, wrists, and neck, were all blistered over with
their bites, and were most painful.
Tuesday, 29th July, Lily Marsh. At half-past seven o'clock proceeded on
the track. Passed my camp of 17th instant, and arriving at the one of the
16th at four o'clock p.m., camped. Wind, south.
Wednesday, 30th July, Side Creek, Adelaide River. All were delighted with
a comfortable night's rest--no mosquitoes. Proceeded to Billiatt Springs
and camped. One of the horses, Jerry, has been ill for the last three
weeks, and although he has not had anything to carry, it has been as much
as we could do to get him into the camp. This afternoon he gave in
altogether, and Mr. Kekwick was quite unable to get him a step further,
and was compelled to leave him about three miles back, where there is
some water and plenty of feed. Wind, south-east.
Thursday, 31st July, Billiatt Springs. Proceeded and passed our camps of
13th and 12th instant. Crossed the Mary branch of the Adelaide: went
along the south side, expecting to avoid the boggy creek crossed on the
12th instant. When nearly opposite to it, camped. Found this part of the
branch deep, broad, and boggy; but I think we will be able to cross in
the morning by cutting down a number of cabbage palms, which are growing
very thick here. Light winds from south-east.
Friday, 1st August, South Side of the Mary. Recrossed the Mary, which is
very boggy on the banks. We were enabled to cross it safely by cutting a
large quantity of long grass, laying it on the sides of the banks, with a
few logs and pickets driven into the bed to prevent the current from
carrying away the grass. In this we succeeded very well. After crossing I
found we had still to encounter the other running and boggy creek of the
12th ultimo; but, by repeating the same operation, we were successful.
Passed our camp of the 11th ultimo, and proceeded on towards the table
land. On approaching it, where the springs come from underneath, found it
very boggy; had some difficulty in getting the horses through it. Got
them all through with the exception of Frew's horse, which stuck hard and
fast in it, and we were obliged to pull him out, which was soon
accomplished, and we got him safe on terra firma. Continued along the
foot of the table land, and halted at our camp of the 10th ultimo. At
about seven p.m. last night I heard something plunging in the river; sent
down to see what it was; found two of the horses bogged, and unable to
extricate themselves. Got ropes, and all the party to pull them out.
After an hour's hard work succeeded. On coming near the table land the
country is all on fire, causing a dense black smoke and heated
atmosphere. Wind, south-east.
Saturday, 2nd August, North-west Side of Table Land. Proceeded up the
creek to the gorge--where we came down from the top of the table land;
ascended it, which they all did well except one horse, which refused to
go up, and caused me to lose more than an hour with him; we had to take
all the things off him and carry them to the top on our backs. We had to
zigzag him backwards and forwards, and got him to the top after a deal of
trouble. Crossing on the top we met with a large fire about two miles
broad. The wind not being strong, nor the grass very long, we got through
it well, but my weak eyes suffered much from the smoke coming from the
burning logs, trees, and grass. The atmosphere very hot and almost
overpowering before we got through it. One of the horses knocked up, but
we were able to get him on to the running creek connected with Kekwick's
large group of springs, where I am obliged to camp and try to recover
him. This is the first one of the (symbol crescent over C) horses that
has failed; but he has not had fair play, through the negligence of the
man who had him. He has for some time been carrying a load of one hundred
and forty pounds without my knowledge, far more than he was able to
carry. He has been a good horse, and has done a deal of work. There are a
number of native tracks both up and down our tracks. One of the natives
seems to have a very large foot. Wind, south.
Sunday, 3rd August, Kekwick's Large Springs. Last evening, just as the
sun was dipping, five natives made their appearance, armed with spears,
and came marching boldly up to within eighty yards of the camp, where
they were met by Mr. Kekwick and others of the party who had advanced to
meet them. They were all young men, small, and very thin. Seeing so many
approaching them they soon went off. They were all smeared over with
burnt grass, charcoal, or some other substance of that description. This
morning, shortly after sunrise, the same five again made their
appearance. I went up to them to see what they wanted. Saw that they had
painted their bodies with white stripes ready for war. As it is my
intention to pass peaceably through the different tribes, I endeavoured
to make friends with them by showing them we intended them no harm if
they will leave us alone. One of them had a curious fish spear, which he
seemed inclined to part with, and I sent Mr. Kekwick to get some
fish-hooks to exchange with him, which he readily did; we then left them.
They continuing a longer time than I wished, and gradually approaching
nearer to our camp, thinking perhaps they really did not wish to part
with the spear, I sent Mr. Kekwick back with it to them to see if that
was what they wanted, and to take the fish-hooks from them. But when they
saw what was intended, they gave back the spear and retained the hooks.
They offered another with a stone head upon the same terms, which was
accepted. Mr. Kekwick had a deal of trouble before he could get them to
move off, when they were joined by another, and then went off by twos. In
a short time they set fire to the grass all round us to try to burn us
out. Two of them came again close to the camp under pretence of looking
for game before the fire, at the same time setting fire to the grass
closer to us. But Mr. Kekwick and one of the others, seeing their
intention, ran up to them, who, on their approach, ran off, setting fire
to the grass as they went along, which gave us a deal of trouble in
putting out, as we wished to save as much feed for the horses as will do
for them till to-morrow morning; we have managed that, if they do not
come and set fire to it again. If they do I shall be compelled to use
preventive means with them, for I can stand it no longer; they must be
taught a lesson that we possess a little more power than they anticipate.
I would have moved on, but some of my horses are so ill that they are
unable to travel. If the natives we have seen to-day are a sample of
those that inhabit this country, they are certainly the smallest and most
miserable race of men that I have ever seen. In height about five feet,
their arms and legs remarkably thin, they do not seem to want the
inclination of doing mischief if they could get an opportunity, but they
find we are rather too watchful to give them a chance. From their manner
I have no doubt there were many more concealed, who intended attacking us
under cover of the smoke--indeed if they see us unprepared they may yet
do it before evening. At sundown they have not again made their
appearance. Wind, south.
Monday, 4th August, Kekwick's Large springs. Proceeded to the Katherine
and camped. The horse that knocked up on Saturday gave in again two miles
before we arrived here, although the distance is only thirteen miles, and
he had a rest all Sunday. I shall be compelled to leave him here; he only
destroys other horses dragging him along, and as the season is so far
advanced, I am doubtful of the water in some of the ponds, and therefore
cannot stop with him. I have been so very unwell to-day, with symptoms of
fever, that I could scarcely reach this place; but I hope I shall be
better by to-morrow. Nights and mornings are now very cold, but the sun
is very hot during the middle and afterpart of the day. Wind, south-east.
Tuesday, 5th August, The Katherine. Leaving the knocked-up horse behind,
proceeded to the Fanny, and camped. It was as much as I could do to sit
in the saddle this distance. Wind, south.
Wednesday, 6th August, The Fanny. Proceeded to the Waterhouse and camped.
The natives have been along our track, and burned the grass to within
three miles of our camp. On arriving here I was much disappointed on
finding all the water gone, but, following back the north-west branch, I
found enough for our use to-night and to-morrow morning. The country is
all on fire to the south-east. Wind, variable. The journey has been
rather rough and stony, and my weak horses feel it very much. I am afraid
I shall be compelled to leave some more of them behind. I cannot now stay
for them to recover, after seeing the rapidity with which this water has
dried up. A long delay will cause my retreat to be cut off in the pond
country. Wind, south-east. There is still permanent water up the
north-west branch of this creek.
Thursday, 7th August, The Waterhouse. Started at half-past seven, and at
two minutes past ten o'clock I arrived at the running stream (the
Chambers) of the 4th ultimo and camped. Weak horses looking very bad.
Country on fire round about us. A number of natives have been following
on our former tracks. Wind, south.
Friday, 8th August, Running Stream, The Chambers. Crossed the hard
sandstone range, and got upon the branch of the Chambers that I followed
up, passing our camp of 3rd ultimo, with plenty of permanent water.
Followed it down to our camp of the 2nd ultimo and remained there. Had to
leave one of the done-up horses about two miles behind. Another horse
gave in, and it was as much as Mr. Kekwick could do to get him thus far.
The natives have burned all the grass throughout this day's journey. A
little has escaped at this camp, and I am now compelled to give my horses
a rest until Monday morning. I thought they would have been able to carry
me across the Chambers before I gave them a rest, but, if I proceed
further, I shall lose more of them. The weather is beginning to be again
very hot in the middle of the day. Wind, south-east.
Saturday, 9th August, River Chambers. Resting horses. Day hot. Wind
variable.
Sunday, 10th August, River Chambers. Resting horses. I have sent Thring
to bring up the one that was left behind on Friday; in a short time he
brought him up, looking a most deplorable picture; the other one that
gave in the same day is quite as bad. I shall have to leave them behind;
it is only destroying other horses to force them along. I must also
reduce the weight the others are carrying, to enable them to get along. I
have had all the saddle-bags overhauled, and shall leave everything we
can possibly do without--even boots and clothes belonging to the party
have not been spared; all were quite willing to sacrifice anything they
had, with the exception of one who had a pair of new boots he had never
put on. I told him to put them on, and leave the old ones, but he
immediately told me that he had got a bad foot; I very soon cured him of
that by telling him if that was the case he might leave the new ones. I
have managed to leave about three hundredweight; many of the things I can
ill spare, but I hope by doing this to be able in a short time to push on
a little quicker. Light winds, variable.
Monday, 11th August, River Chambers. Two of the horses having strayed
this morning, it was a quarter past nine before I could get a start. I
had to proceed very slowly, in consequence of five of the horses being so
ill that they were unable to walk quickly. Proceeded on my former tracks,
cutting off the bends of the river. In some places it is very stony. Late
in the afternoon managed to get all the horses to the first camp on this
river. Light winds, south-east.
Tuesday, 12th August, River Chambers. Horses missing again this morning.
Started at half-past eight. Proceeded to the south-east end of the reedy
swamp, and at half-past three o'clock camped. An hour before halting, we
surprised a number of native women and children who were preparing roots
and other things for their repast. The moment they saw us they seized on
their children, placed them on their shoulders, and ran off screaming at
a great rate, leaving all their things behind them, amongst which we saw
a piece of iron used as a tomahawk; it had a large round eye into which
they had fixed a handle; the edge was about the usual tomahawk breadth;
when hot it had been hammered together. It had apparently been a hinge of
some large door or other large article; the natives had ground it down,
and seemed to know the use of it. Left their articles undisturbed, and
proceeded to the river Roper. My horses are still looking very bad. The
cause must be the dry state of the grass; it is so parched up that when
rubbed between the hands it becomes a fine powder, and they must derive
very little nourishment from it. I can hear natives talking and screaming
on the other side of the river, which at this place is a strong running
stream about thirty yards wide and apparently deep. Wind, south-east,
blowing strong.
Wednesday, 13th August, Roper River, Reedy Swamp. One of the horses
missing again this morning; he is one that generally goes off and hides
himself if he can find a place to do so. Searched all round, but could
find nothing of him or his tracks. Thinking that he might be hidden
amongst the thick bushes over the river, sent Frew to look through them
on foot, and Mr. Kekwick to an open place up the river to see if he had
got into it. Mr. Kekwick returned in a short time and reported that he
saw him lying drowned in the middle of it. I am sorry for this: he was a
good horse, in fair condition, was with me last year, and has always done
his work well, although he has caused a deal of trouble and loss of time
by so frequently concealing himself. I shall feel his loss very much, as
so many of the other horses are so poor that they are able to carry but
little of a load, and I am obliged to let four go without carrying
anything; indeed it is as much as they can do to walk the day's journey,
although the journeys are short. I shall be compelled to make them still
shorter to try and get them round again. As we were saddling, one native
man and two women made their appearance and came close to the camp. Mr.
Kekwick and I went up to them; the man was middle-aged, stout and tall,
the women were also tall, one especially. Their features were not so
coarse as those we had seen before--a very great difference between this
fellow and those I saw on the source of the Adelaide River. The man made
signs that he would like to get a fishhook by bending his forefinger and
placing it in his mouth, imitating the method of catching fish. I gave
him one with which he was much pleased: I also gave a cotton handkerchief
to each of the women; one of them no sooner got it than she held out the
other hand and called out "more, more, more;" with that request I did not
feel inclined to comply. They remained until we started. Proceeding about
three quarters of a mile down the river to where I had crossed it before,
I got all the horses over without difficulty. There is now no difference
in the strength, depth, nor velocity of the stream since we were here; it
is exactly in the same state as when we previously crossed it. After
crossing it to the other side, I had to cross another deep although dry
creek coming from the east; proceeded on a south-east course to avoid the
deep boggy creek that comes into the river, but at two miles I was
stopped by an immense number of springs, very boggy, and emitting a large
quantity of water; they seem to come from the east, as far as I could
see, in a wooded valley between two hills. I had to round them until I
got upon the south-east course again. At seven miles came upon a large
creek or chain of ponds, having long broad deep reaches of water;
followed this, running nearly my course for seven miles in a straight
line. Camped. My horses cannot do more. The country that I have travelled
over to-day is of the very finest description, rich black alluvial soil,
completely matted with grass, the water most excellent and abundant. The
timber, gum and melaleuca, a few of the trees resembling the shea-oak
also; a few of the fan palms growing among the springs, very tall,
upwards of forty feet; the cabbage palm, and a number of other bushes.
The general course to-day has been about east-south-east. Wind variable.
Thursday, 14th August, Springs and Chains of Ponds South of the Roper.
Started at half-past seven, intending to follow a south-east course to
make the Mussel Camp on the 23rd of June; but, meeting with another large
creek with continuous water, deep, broad, and boggy, also a number of
springs and water creeks, so boggy that I could not cross them, had to
twist and turn about very frequently, and sometimes to go quite back
again, before I could clear them--which brought me often close to the
river again. About eleven o'clock, as I was approaching the east end of a
low rocky range of hills, where I expected to get rid of all the boggy
ground, I was again stopped by a broad, deep, and boggy sheet of water. A
few minutes before coming to it, I was seized with a violent pain under
the right shoulder-blade, which deprived me of breath and power of
utterance: it darted through my body like lightning, causing the most
excruciating pain that I have ever felt during my life. I had to halt the
party, and was lifted from the saddle completely powerless. After
dismounting, the pain became so violent, and the torture so excessive,
that I thought my career in the world was coming quickly to a close. I
was completely paralysed, and a cold perspiration was pouring in streams
over my face and body. Recollecting I had got a mixture of laudanum and
other strong aromatic tinctures, had it sought for and took a strong
dose. After suffering an hour the extremes of torture, I began to feel
the good effects of the medicine, and obtained a little relief from the
pain ceasing for a few seconds; but still very bad. In a short time
afterwards I was able to bear being lifted into the saddle; again my
sufferings commenced, for every false step the horse made sent the pain
through my body like a knife, and almost brought me to the ground. Being
determined to reach the Mussel Camp to-night, and get quit of the Roper
River, which has been so unfortunate to me in drowning two of my best
horses, I kept my saddle until I reached it--which was not till near five
o'clock. Such a day of torture I never experienced before. On reaching
our tracks, about four miles from the Mussel Camp, another of the horses
knocked up, and we could not get him a step further. I expected to have
lost him long before this; he is one of those that failed on my last
journey, and was sent back from Mount Margaret. Light winds from east.