of my approbation of Billiatt's thoughtful, generous, and unselfish
conduct throughout the expedition. I started at 7.40 this morning, course
north-west. Crossed granite and quartz rises, with broad valleys between,
both splendidly grassed. At three miles crossed a small creek with water;
at another mile the same creek again; one also to my line on the
south-west side, and immediately went off to the south-west. At six miles
the river came close to the line, and immediately went off to the west.
Continued on my course through granite and quartz country, splendidly
grassed, and timbered with stringy-bark and gums, pines, palms,
nut-trees, and a wattle bush, which in some places was rather thick, but
not at all difficult to get through. At ten miles again struck the river;
it is now apparently running to the north. Changed to that course, but it
soon left me. At three miles and a half on the north course struck
another creek running from the range north-east; it has an abundance of
water, and is rather boggy. King's horse fell with him in it, but did no
further injury than giving him a wetting. A few of the other horses
stumbled and rolled about in it for a short time, but we got them all
across without accident. Changed to west of north; at half a mile reached
a saddle between two hills, and ascended the one to the west, the river
now running between ranges to the west; they seemed a good deal broken,
with some high points to the north-west. There is a higher one, seemingly
running north and south, with apparently a plain between about four miles
broad, on which are four or five lines of dark trees; this leads me to
suppose that the river is divided. The plain being very thickly timbered,
I could not see distinctly which was the main channel. Descended, and
proceeded on a north-west course. At one mile and a half struck the
river, again running north; changed to that, and at two miles and a half
camped. The country is now all burnt. I am obliged to stop where I can
get feed for the horses. One of the channels comes close to the bank,
east side, about six yards wide and two feet deep; bed sandy. The main
channel must be in the middle of the plain. The hill I ascended to-day
has been under the influence of fire; it is composed of quartz, and a
hard dark-coloured stone; the quartz runs in veins throughout it, in
places crystalline, and formed into spiral and many-sided figures; in
places there is a crust of iron, as if it had been run between the
stones, that is also crystalline. Wind, south-east. Latitude, 13 degrees
17 minutes 22 seconds.
Wednesday, 16th July, The Mary, Adelaide River. Started at 7.40, course
north. The river runs off again to the north-west, and I have passed over
an undulating country, all burnt, but the soil of the richest
description. The rises are comprised of quartz and a hard white stone,
with occasionally a little ironstone. At three miles crossed a creek with
water holes. At five miles crossed another. At seven miles came close to
a high hill--ascended it; at the foot it is composed of a hard slaty
stone covered with a cake of iron; about the middle is quartz, and on the
top conglomerated quartz. The view from south-west to north-west is
extensive, but this not being the highest hill, the rest is hidden. To
the west is a high hill, bluff at both ends, seemingly the last hill of
the range; its course apparently north-west and south-east. At this bluff
hill the range seems to cease, or drops into lower hills. A branch of the
river lies between it and me, but there are still a number of stony hills
before I can reach it. To the north-west and north there are high and
stony hills. The river now seems to run to the west, on a bearing of 30
degrees north of west. From twenty to twenty-five miles distant is
another range, at the foot of which there is a blue stripe, apparently
water, which I suppose to be the main stream of the Adelaide. Descended,
as the country is too rough and stony to continue either to the north or
north-west. I changed to 3 degrees north of west, crossed some stony
hills and broad valleys with splendid alluvial soil, the hills grassed to
the top. On that course struck the branch of the river. Still very thick
with the same kind of timber already mentioned. Most of the bamboos are
dead. I suppose the fire has been the cause of it. I again find it
running to the north; I turn to that course. At three miles struck a
large creek coming from the east with large sheets of water; had to run
it up half a mile before I could get across it. Crossed it all right, and
passed through a beautiful valley of green grass. After that, found that
I was again on the stony rise, where every blade of grass had been burned
off, and not knowing how far this may continue, I have turned off again
for the creek, to give the horses the benefit of the valley. The timber
is the same as yesterday in some places; the stringy-bark is much larger.
The banks of the river, when we first came upon it to-day, were high and
stony. The range to the east seems to cease about here. We are now
crossing low undulations. I have seen a number of kangaroos to-day; they
do not seem to be as large as those in the south. The valleys are
composed of conglomerated ironstone underneath the soil. A large number
of new birds seen to-day, some of them with splendid plumage. Wind,
south-east. Latitude, 13 degrees 7 minutes 21 seconds.
Thursday, 17th July, Tide Creek, Adelaide River. Started at eight
o'clock, course north-west; passed over some stony hills, small creeks,
and valleys well grassed. At three miles again met with the branch of the
river, with bamboos and trees of the same description as before, a
running stream, but not so rapid. At five miles, observing an open plain
among the trees, and the river trending more to the westward, I changed
my course to it, 15 degrees west of north; found it to be open plain, of
rich alluvial soil in places; at times it seemed to be subject to
inundation, I suppose the drainage from the range to the eastward, which
is distant about four miles. I am pleased it has been burnt, but where it
has not the grass is most abundant; where the water seems to remain it is
rather coarse. The plains are studded with lines of green gum-trees, and
the cabbage palms are numerous, which give them a very pretty park-like
appearance. They continued for ten miles, when we made a small stony
hill; we met with a large creek, with large holes of water in it, and
supposing I had got upon the plain that ran to the sea-coast, and seeing
those I had passed over so dry, camped; and having sent Thring to a rise
to see where the river is, he returned, but can see nothing of it, but
reports high hills to the north-west. I am glad of this, for it is not my
intention to follow the river round if I can get water in other places,
for it has already been well described south of this by Lieutenant
Helpman when he came up in a boat, and I wish to see what the country is
away from its banks. Wind south-east, with a few clouds from the north.
For the last week the weather has been excellent, not too hot during the
day, and cool and refreshing at night. The mosquitoes are very annoying,
and the flies during the day are a perfect torment. This creek I have
called Priscilla Creek. Latitude, 12 degrees 56 minutes 54 seconds.
Friday, 18th July, Priscilla Creek. Started at 8.15, course north-west.
Passed over grassy plains and stony rise; when, at three miles, seeing
the termination of a range in a bluff point, changed my course to 310
degrees. Proceeded, still crossing stony hills, consisting of ironstone,
slate, and a hard white rock, which is broken into rectangular fragments;
also over broad valleys, which are covered with grass that when green
must have stood very high, but is now so dry that it breaks off before
the horses. My horse being first, collects so much on his front legs that
I have been obliged to stop, pull him back, and allow it to fall, so that
he may step over it, go on, get another load, and do the same. At six
miles and a half, after crossing a plain, crossed a deep bamboo creek;
this I have named Ellen Creek. Proceeded over two other stony rises and
valleys of the same description, and came upon extensive plains, well
grassed, and of beautiful alluvial soil; crossing them towards the bluff
point at fifteen miles, came upon the Adelaide between me and the bluff,
which is about a mile further on; the river is about eighty yards wide,
and so still that I could not see which way the current was. I suppose
its being high tide was the cause of this. The banks are thickly lined
with bamboo, very tall and stout, very steep, and twelve feet down to the
water's edge; the water appeared to be of great depth, and entirely free
from snags or fallen timber. The range on the opposite side of the river,
for which I was directing my course, being the highest I have seen in
this new country, I have named it after His Excellency the
Governor-in-Chief of South Australia, Daly Range, and its highest peak to
the north Mount Daly. Before reaching the river, at thirteen miles, we
passed a high conspicuous tent hill, at right angle, north-east to our
line; this I have named Mount Goyder, after the Surveyor-General of South
Australia. Followed the river on a north course for about a mile, when I
was stopped by a deep side creek of thick bamboo, with water; turned to
the east, rounded the bamboo, but found myself in a boggy marsh, which I
could not cross. This marsh is covered with fine grass, in black alluvial
soil, in which is growing a new kind of lily, with a large broad
heart-shaped leaf a foot or more across; the blossoms are six inches
high, resemble a tulip in shape, and are of a deep brilliant rose colour;
the seeds are contained in a vessel resembling the rose of a
watering-pot, with the end of each egg-shaped seed showing from the
holes, and the colour of this is a bright yellow. The marsh is studded
with a great number of melaleuca-trees, tall and straight. As I could not
cross, I had to round it, which took me a little more than an hour; when
I got upon some low undulating rises, not far from Mount Goyder, composed
of conglomerate ironstone and ironstone gravel, which seem to produce the
springs which supply the marsh. Camped on the side of the marsh, to give
the horses the benefit of the green grass, for some of them are still
troubled with worms, and are very poor and miserable, and I have no
medicine to give them, and there is not a blade of grass on the banks of
the river--all has been burnt within the last four days. Native smoke in
every direction. Wind south-east, with a few clouds. Latitude, 12 degrees
49 minutes 30 seconds.
Saturday, 19th July, Lily Marsh, Adelaide River. Started at 9.10, course
20 degrees east of north. At three miles crossed some stony rises and
broad alluvial grassy valleys; at four miles met the river, had to go
half a mile to the south-east to round it. Again changed to my first
course; at seven miles and a half crossed a creek with water. The country
to this is good, with occasionally a little ironstone and gravel, timber
of stringy-bark, and a little low gum scrub. Having crossed this creek,
we ascended a sandy table land with an open forest of stringy bark (good
timber), palms, gums, other trees and bushes; it has been lately burnt,
but the roots of the grass abound. This continued for about three miles.
There is a small stony range of hills to the west, which at the end of
the three miles dropped into a grassy plain of a beautiful black alluvial
soil, covered with lines and groves of the cabbage palm trees, which give
it a very picturesque appearance; its dip is towards the river; in two
miles crossed it, and again ascended low table land of the very same
description as the other. At fourteen miles struck another creek with
water, and camped. The country gone over to-day, though not all of the
very best description, has plains in it of the very finest kind--even the
sandy table-land bears an abundant crop of grass. The trees are so thick
that I can get no view of the surrounding country; the tall beautiful
palm grows in this creek. Native smoke about, but we have not seen any
natives. There are large masses of volcanic rock on the sides of this
creek. At about a mile to the eastward is a large body of springs that
supply water to this creek, which I have named Anna Creek. Camped at ten
minutes to three o'clock. Wind variable. Latitude, 12 degrees 39 minutes
7 seconds.
Sunday, 20th July, Anna Creek. The mosquitoes at this camp have been most
annoying; scarcely one of us has been able to close his eyes in sleep
during the whole night: I never found them so bad anywhere--night and day
they are at us. The grass in, and on the banks of, this creek is six feet
high; to the westward there are long reaches of water, and the creek very
thickly timbered with melaleuca, gum, stringy-bark, and palms. Wind,
south-east.
Monday, 21st July, Anna Creek and Springs. Again passed a miserable night
with the mosquitoes. Started at eight o'clock; course, north-north-west.
At three miles came upon another extensive fresh-water marsh, too boggy
to cross. There is rising ground to the north-west and north; the river
seems to run between. I can see clumps of bamboos and trees, by which I
suppose it runs at about a mile to the north-north-west. The ground for
the last three miles is of a sandy nature, and light-brown colour, with
ironstone gravel on the surface, volcanic rock occasionally cropping out.
The borders of the marsh are of the richest description of black alluvial
soil, and when the grass has sprung after it has been burnt, it has the
appearance of a rich and very thick crop of green wheat. I am now
compelled to alter my course to 30 degrees south of east, to get across a
water creek coming into the marsh, running deep, broad and boggy, and so
thick with trees, bushes, and strong vines interwoven throughout it, that
it would take a day to cut a passage through. At three miles we crossed
the stream, and proceeded again on the north-north-west course, but at a
mile and a half were stopped by another creek of the same description.
Changed to east, and at half a mile was able to cross it also, and again
went on my original bearing. Continued on it for three miles, when we
were again stopped by another running stream, but this one I was able to
cross without going far out of my course. Proceeded on the
north-north-west course, passing over elevated ground of the same
description as the first three miles. At seventeen miles came upon a
thick clump of trees, with beautiful palms growing amongst them; examined
it and found it to have been a spring, but now dry. Proceeded on another
mile, and was again stopped by what seemed to be a continuation of the
large marsh; we now appeared to have got right into the middle of it. It
was to be seen to the south-west, north-east, and south-east of us.
Camped on a point of rising ground running into it. The timber on the
rises between the creeks is stringy-bark, small gums, and in places a
nasty scrub, very sharp, which tore a number of our saddle-bags: it is a
very good thing the patches of it are not broad. The grass, where it has
not been burned, is very thick and high--up to my shoulder when on
horseback. About a mile from here, to the west, I can see what appears to
be the water of the river, running through clumps of trees and bamboos,
beyond which, in the distance, are courses of low rising ground, in
places broken also with clumps of trees; the course of the river seems to
be north-north-west. On the east side of the marsh is also rising ground;
the marsh in that direction seems to run five or six miles before it
meets the rising ground, and appears after that to come round to the
north. Nights cool. Latitude, 12 degrees 28 minutes 19 seconds. Wind,
south-east.
Tuesday, 22nd July, Fresh-water Marsh. As the marsh seems to run so much
to the east, and not knowing how much further I shall have to go to get
across the numerous creeks that appear to come into it, I shall remain
here to-day and endeavour to find a road through it to the river, and
follow up the banks if I can. I have a deal of work to do to the plan,
and our bags require mending. After collecting the horses Thring tried to
cross the marsh to the river, and succeeded in reaching its banks,
finding firm ground all the way; the breadth of the river here being
about a hundred yards, very deep, and running with some velocity, the
water quite fresh. He having returned with this information, I sent him,
King, and Frew, mounted on the strongest horses, to follow the banks of
the river till noon, to see if there is any obstruction to prevent my
travelling by its banks. In two hours they returned with the sad tidings
that the banks were broken down by watercourses, deep, broad, and boggy;
this is a great disappointment, for it will take me a day or two longer
than I expected in reaching the sea-coast, in consequence of having to go
a long way round to clear the marsh and creeks. The edge of the marsh was
still of the same rich character, and covered with luxuriant grass. The
rise we are camped on is also the same, with ironstone gravel on the
surface; this seems to have been a favourite camping-place for a large
number of natives. There is a great quantity of fish bones, mussel, and
turtle shells, at a little distance from the camp, close to where there
was some water. There are three poles fixed in the ground, forming an
equilateral triangle, on the top of which was a framework of the same
figure, over which were placed bars of wood: its height from the ground
eight feet. This has apparently been used by them for smoke-drying a dead
blackfellow. We have seen no natives since leaving the Roper, although
their smoke is still round about us. On and about the marsh are large
flocks of geese, ibis, and numerous other aquatic birds; they are so wild
that they will not allow us to come within shot of them. Mr. Kekwick has
been successful in shooting a goose; it has a peculiar-shaped head,
having a large horny lump on the top resembling a topknot, and only a
very small web at the root of his toes. The river opposite this, about a
yard from the bank, is nine feet deep. Wind variable. Night cool.
Wednesday, 23rd July, Fresh-water Marsh. Started at 7.40, course 22
degrees east of south, one mile, to round the marsh; thence one mile
south-east; thence east for six miles, when we struck a large creek, deep
and long reaches; thence three quarters of a mile south before we could
cross it. This I have named Thring Creek, in token of my approbation of
his conduct throughout the journey; thence east, one mile and a half;
thence north for nine miles, when I again struck the large marsh. Thring
Creek has been running nearly parallel with the north course until it
empties itself into the marsh. The country gone over to-day, after
leaving the side of the marsh, as well as the banks of the creek, and
also some small plains, is of the same rich description of soil covered
with grass; the other parts are slightly elevated, the soil light with a
little sand on the surface of a brown colour; timber, mixture of
stringy-bark and gums, with many others; also, a low thick scrub, which
has lately been burnt in many places, the few patches that have escaped
abounding in grass. I have come twelve miles to the eastward to try to
round the marsh, but have not been able to do so; the plains that were
seen from the river by those who came up it in boats is the marsh; it is
covered with luxuriant grass, which gives it the appearance of extensive
grassy plains. I have camped at where the Thring spreads itself over a
portion of the marsh. There is rising ground to the north-west, on the
opposite side, which I suppose to be a continuation of the elevated
ground I passed before crossing the creek, and the same that I saw
bearing north from the last camp. I suppose it runs in towards the river.
Wind, south. Latitude, 13 degrees 22 minutes 30 seconds.
Thursday, 24th July, Thring Creek, Entering the Marsh. Started at 7.40,
course north. I have taken this course in order to make the sea-coast,
which I suppose to be distant about eight miles and a half, as soon as
possible; by this I hope to avoid the marsh. I shall travel along the
beach to the north of the Adelaide. I did not inform any of the party,
except Thring and Auld, that I was so near to the sea, as I wished to
give them a surprise on reaching it. Proceeded through a light soil,
slightly elevated, with a little ironstone on the surface--the volcanic
rock cropping out occasionally; also some flats of black alluvial soil.
The timber much smaller and more like scrub, showing that we are nearing
the sea. At eight miles and a half came upon a broad valley of black
alluvial soil, covered with long grass; from this I can hear the wash of
the sea. On the other side of the valley, which is rather more than a
quarter of a mile wide, is growing a line of thick heavy bushes, very
dense, showing that to be the boundary of the beach. Crossed the valley,
and entered the scrub, which was a complete network of vines. Stopped the
horses to clear a way, whilst I advanced a few yards on to the beach, and
was gratified and delighted to behold the water of the Indian Ocean in
Van Diemen Gulf, before the party with the horses knew anything of its
proximity. Thring, who rode in advance of me, called out "The Sea!" which
so took them all by surprise, and they were so astonished, that he had to
repeat the call before they fully understood what was meant. Then they
immediately gave three long and hearty cheers. The beach is covered with
a soft blue mud. It being ebb tide, I could see some distance; found it
would be impossible for me to take the horses along it; I therefore kept
them where I had halted them, and allowed half the party to come on to
the beach and gratify themselves by a sight of the sea, while the other
half remained to watch the horses until their return. I dipped my feet,
and washed my face and hands in the sea, as I promised the late Governor
Sir Richard McDonnell I would do if I reached it. The mud has nearly
covered all the shells; we got a few, however. I could see no sea-weed.
There is a point of land some distance off, bearing 70 degrees. After all
the party had had some time on the beach, at which they were much pleased
and gratified, they collected a few shells; I returned to the valley,
where I had my initials (J.M.D.S.) cut on a large tree, as I did not
intend to put up my flag until I arrived at the mouth of the Adelaide.
Proceeded, on a course of 302 degrees, along the valley; at one mile and
a half, coming upon a small creek, with running water, and the valley
being covered with beautiful green grass, I have camped to give the
horses the benefit of it. Thus have I, through the instrumentality of
Divine Providence, been led to accomplish the great object of the
expedition, and take the whole party safely as witnesses to the fact, and
through one of the finest countries man could wish to behold--good to the
coast, and with a stream of running water within half a mile of the sea.
From Newcastle Water to the sea-beach, the main body of the horses have
been only one night without water, and then got it within the next day.
If this country is settled, it will be one of the finest Colonies under
the Crown, suitable for the growth of any and everything--what a splendid
country for producing cotton! Judging from the number of the pathways
from the water to the beach, across the valley, the natives must be very
numerous; we have not seen any, although we have passed many of their
recent tracks and encampments. The cabbage and fan palm-trees have been
very plentiful during to-day's journey down to this valley. This creek I
named Charles Creek, after the eldest son of John Chambers, Esquire: it
is one by which some large bodies of springs discharge their surplus
water into Van Diemen Gulf; its banks are of soft mud, and boggy. Wind,
south. Latitude, 12 degrees 13 minutes 30 seconds.