natives again made their appearance, sixteen in number, with small
spears. Sent Mr. Kekwick to see what they wanted. On his coming up to
them they put two fingers in their mouths, signifying that they wanted
more fish-hooks, but we had no more to spare. They remained looking at us
until the horses were packed and started. After Thring and Frew had
brought in the horses, they rode up to where they were. They (the
natives) did not fancy being too near the horses, but having dismounted,
it gave them confidence, and they returned again. Thring opened the lips
of one of the horses, and showed them his teeth, the appearance of which
did not suit their taste. Some of them thought the further off they were
from such weapons the better, and ran off the moment they saw them.
Others remained, but kept at a respectful distance. Thring pulled a
handful of grass, and it amused them much to see the horses eating it.
After starting they followed us for some miles, when Mr. Waterhouse,
observing a new pigeon, shot it. They, not liking the report of the gun,
went off, and we saw no more of them. Started at 8.20, following the
river on a course 30 degrees east of north. After a mile it gradually
came round to the south-east, and was a running stream in that direction.
As that course would take me too much out of my road, I changed my
bearing to north-west, to an opening between the hills. After passing a
number of fine ponds, many of them with water in them, came upon a large
creek, having long reaches of water in it, but not running. It winds
about a great deal. Its general course to-day has been west-north-west.
The reedy swamp must be a mass of springs, which causes the Roper to run
with such velocity. A little after one o'clock camped. The journey to-day
has been rough, having so many small creeks to cross, and the day being
excessively hot, the horses seem fagged. They have been covered with
sweat since shortly after starting until now, and as some of the drowned
horse is not quite dry, I have halted earlier than I intended. The
country gone over to-day is of the same kind, beautiful soil, covered
with grass. We occasionally met with stony hills coming down to the
creek, also well grassed and timbered to their tops. Wind west, with
heavy clouds from the south-east. Latitude, 14 degrees 41 minutes 39
seconds.
Wednesday, 2nd July, West-north-west of Reedy Swamp, River Chambers.
Started 7.40, following the river up until ten o'clock. We kept nearly a
north-west course: it then went off to the south-west; as that would take
me too much out of my course, I kept the north-west course, crossing the
saddle of broken hills, amongst which we have now got; and at twelve
again met the river, now coming from the north through the hills,
following it still, having plenty of water. At a very large water hole
surprised some natives, who ran off at full speed when the rear of the
party was passing their camp. One stout fellow came running up, armed
with spears, and loaded with fish and bags filled with something to eat.
Mr. Kekwick rode towards him. The native held up a green bough as a flag
of truce, and patting his heart with his right hand, said something which
could not be understood, and pointed in the direction we were going. We
then bade him good-bye, and proceeded on our journey. At one o'clock the
river suddenly turned to the east, coming from very rough hills of
sandstone and other rocks. At one mile and a half on that course it was
coming from the south of east, which will not do for me. Changed to the
north, and got into some terrible rough stony hills with grassy valleys
between, but not a drop of water. It being now after two o'clock, too
late to encounter crossing the table land, I again changed my course to
south-east for the Chambers, and at 5.3 camped at a large water hole at
the foot of a stony rise lined with cabbage (palm) trees. The country
although rough is well grassed to the top of the hills, with an abundance
of permanent water in the river. I am sorry it is coming from the
south-east, and have been in hopes it would carry me through this degree
of latitude. To follow it further is only losing time; I shall therefore
take to the hills to-morrow. Frew, on coming along, picked up a small
turtle alive. Light wind from the south-east; heavy clouds from the
south-west. Latitude, 14 degrees 32 minutes 30 seconds.
Thursday, 3rd July, River Chambers. Started at 8.10 o'clock, north-west
course. At one mile and a half again struck the river coming from the
west-north-west; left it and followed its north-west course: and at
another mile again came upon it with plenty of water. Saw four natives,
who ran off the moment they saw us. Followed the river, the hill coming
quite close to it, very steep and rocky, composed of a hard sandstone,
and occasionally a little ironstone. At nine miles again left the river,
finding it was coming too much from the eastward; crossed the saddle of
the two spurs again; came upon a creek, which I think is the river; ran
it up to the west for about a mile, but no appearance of water; left it,
and ascended a very rough rugged hill. In the creek we have just left
there is a deal of limestone. Crossed three more small spurs and small
creeks, but not a drop of water. It being now afternoon, and wishing to
see from what direction the river is coming, I changed to north-east, but
found that I was still among the rough hills; I then went east for a
short distance, and made the river, now quite dry, and having a sandy
bed. Followed it up, but saw there was no hope of water; turned, and
traced it down to try and find water. After following it for three miles,
came upon a fine permanent hole of water, a short distance from where we
left in the former part of the day. If it would only rain and put some
water in the deep dry holes that are in the other creeks crossed to-day,
I should then be enabled to steer a straight line for the Adelaide. It is
very tedious and tiresome having to look for water every day. We have now
reached to the top of one of the tributaries of the Chambers. This is
apparently the last water. It seems to take its rise in a grassy plain to
the east of this. The valley through which the creek flows is well
grassed, but the sides and the tops of the hills are spinifex mixed with
grass. All the small valleys are well grassed. Wind, south-east.
Latitude, 14 degrees 26 minutes 50 seconds.
Friday, 4th July, Last Water Hole in the Chambers. Started at 8.10,
course north-west, following up the river to its sources. At four miles
ascended a rise, which was very rough, composed of sandstone, ironstone,
and limestone, with ironstone gravel on the top. Descended on the other
side, and at about five miles came upon a nice running stream, but very
rough and stony round about it. After crossing several stony rises, in
which we had some difficulty in getting our horses over, arrived at a
nice broad valley with a creek running through it, course north-west. At
a mile it received a large tributary from the east of north, and the bed
seems sandy; melaleuca and gum-trees in it; also the bean-tree. The
valley is covered with grass from two to four feet high. There is a ridge
of rough sandy stone hills, with occasional ironstone on each side, from
the direction it was at first taken. I thought I was fortunate in meeting
with one of the sources of the Alligator or Adelaide River. After
following it for five miles, sometimes going west and south, it went
through a stony gorge, and seemed to run to the south, which is a great
disappointment. I ascended one of the hills to view the country, but
could see very little, it being so thickly wooded. To the north is the
appearance of a range running to the east and west that I must endeavour
to cross to-morrow if I do not find another creek running to the
north-west. There is one benefit I shall derive from following down this
creek a day; it will enable me to round the very rough sandstone range
that runs on the north side of the creek. It is so rough that I could not
take the horses over it. Camped at the gorge of this creek, which I
suppose, from the course it is now taking, to be another tributary of the
Chambers. The gorge is impassable for horses. It has a very picturesque
appearance; immense masses of rock--some thousands of tons in
weight--which had fallen from the top of the cliff into the bed of the
creek. Mr. Kekwick found a number of new plants, among them a fine
climbing fern. Light winds, east. Plenty of permanent water in the creek.
Latitude, 14 degrees 25 minutes 8 seconds.
Saturday, 5th July, Gorge on another West Branch of the River Chambers.
Started 8.15; course, 5 degrees west of north. After travelling two miles
over stony rises we ascended a low table land with coarse grass and a
little spinifex; at six miles came up to a high stony tent-hill, which I
ascended and named Mount Shillinglaw. All round are stony hills and
grassy valleys--dip of the country seemingly to the south. There is
apparently a continuous range in the distance to the north-west, the
Chambers range. Changed my course to 325 degrees, and at four miles
struck another large branch coming from the north-east, and running
apparently south--plenty of water in it. This I named the Waterhouse, in
honour of Mr. H.W. Waterhouse, naturalist to the expedition. Some of the
horses are become so lame on account of the stones they will not be able
to travel another day. I have camped early to have them shod, for on
Monday I intend taking a north-west course to strike the source of the
Adelaide. The country on the last course is again of the very best
description and well grassed. The hills are stony, but abound with grass;
they are composed of sandstone, ironstone, and occasionally a little
limestone; the trees are the same as those on the Roper. Wind,
south-east. Latitude, 14 degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds.
Sunday, 6th July, The Waterhouse River. Day again very hot. There is
another branch a short distance off, which seems to come from the
north-west; I shall follow it to-morrow if it continues the same course.
I think these creeks we are now crossing must be the sources of the
Adelaide flowing towards the dry river seen by Mr. Gregory running
towards the north-west. Wind light; sky cloudy.
Monday, 7th July, Waterhouse River. Started at 7.55; course, north-west.
At four miles the creek was coming from the west, north-east, and east; I
therefore left it, crossed two low stony rises, and again struck another
creek coming from the north-east, with plenty of water; followed it for a
short distance to the west, found it so boggy and the body of water so
large that I could not get the party round the stony hills. Returned
about half a mile, and crossed the stony rise, and again struck it. At
eight miles came upon a number of springs coming from the stony rises.
Ascended one of the rises, which are not high, and found myself on a
sandy table land, which continued for six miles, having coarse grass and
spinifex growing on it. Towards the last two miles it again became well
grassed. The timber is stringy-bark, some splendid trees; amongst them
gums and a number of pines, also very fine. The cabbage palm still
growing in the creeks in great numbers, some of them very tall, with
several branches on the top. The first eight miles was again over a
splendid country, and the last three of the same description. A stony
hill being in my course, I proceeded to the top of it, from which I had a
good view of the country before me. This hill I named after Lieutenant
Helpman. At 10 degrees south of west are two remarkable isolated table
hills, Mount Levi and Mount Watts, beyond which is the Chambers range to
the north-west; my view in other directions is obstructed by other hills,
but to the west about one mile and a half is seemingly a creek, to which
I shall go, and if there is water I shall camp. Proceeded and found it a
fine creek with plenty of water; followed it about one mile to the
north-west, when it became dry. There it seems to come from the south.
There are a great number of cabbage palms on its banks. I hope it will
soon come round to the north-west and continue on that course. Light
winds, variable. Latitude, 14 degrees 9 minutes 31 seconds.
Tuesday, 8th July, Water Creek in Stony Rises. Started at 7.40 a.m.,
course north-west; followed the creek a little way, but found it was
running too much to the west of my course; left it and proceeded to the
north-west, crossing some stony rises, now composed of granite and
ironstone, with occasionally some hard sandstone. Crossing three small
creeks running to the west, at six miles came upon a large one with broad
and long sheets of permanent water coming from the north-north-east, and
apparently running to the south-west. This I have named the Fanny, in
honour of Miss Fanny Chambers, eldest daughter of John Chambers, Esquire.
In a small tree on this creek the skull of a very young alligator was
found by Mr. Auld. The trees in this creek are melaleuca and gum, with
some others. Proceeded across the creek, still going north-west; ascended
two stony rises, and got upon low table land with spinifex and grass,
passing two stony hills, one on each side of my course. At eighteen miles
struck the head of a small creek flowing nearly on my course; followed it
down in search of water, now through a basaltic country. At two miles
came upon another large creek, having a running stream to the south of
west, and coming from the north of east. Timber, melaleuca, palm, and
gum, with some of other descriptions. This I have named the Katherine, in
honour of the second daughter of James Chambers, Esquire. The country
gone over to-day, although there is a mile or two of light sandy soil, is
good for pasturage purposes; in the valley it is of the finest
description. Light winds, variable. Latitude, 13 degrees 58 minutes 30
seconds.
Wednesday, 9th July, The Katherine. Started at five minutes to eight
o'clock, crossing the Katherine, and proceeded on a north-west course
over a basaltic country, splendidly grassed. At five miles I ascended a
high hill, which I named Mount Stow, but was disappointed in the view.
West-north-west course, over a great number of rises thickly timbered
with gum. At 20 degrees north of west is a high bluff point of the range;
the country on that bearing does not seem to be so rough. No more visible
but the range to the west and the hill between. Descended, and changed my
course to the bluff point. At one mile and a half crossed a creek with
water in it, coming from the north-east, and running to the south-west.
At three miles further arrived at the bluff. The basaltic country has now
suddenly changed to slate, limestone, sandstone, and a hard white stone.
Crossed three stony rises, and got upon a white sandy rise, with large
stringy-bark trees growing upon it; and there seemingly being a creek at
the foot of it, from the number of green gums and palm-trees, I went down
to it, and found it to be springy ground, now quite dry, although the
grass was quite green. Proceeded on the westerly course, expecting to
meet with a creek; found none, but large springs coming from sandy rises.
Having found water at thirteen miles, and being so very unwell that I
cannot proceed, I have been compelled to camp. There is an immense
quantity of water coming from these springs; the soil round them is of
the best deep black alluvial. About a mile to the west is a strong stream
running to the south-west from them. I have called them Kekwick Springs,
in honour of my chief officer. Wind light and variable. Latitude, 13
degrees 54 minutes 12 seconds.
Thursday, 10th July, Kekwick's Large Group of Springs. Started at eight
o'clock; crossed the springs without getting any of the horses bogged.
Proceeded on a north-west course, but at a mile and a half again came
upon springs and running water; the ground too boggy to cross it. Changed
to north; at three miles and a half on the course changed to north-west.
Ascended some very rough stony hills, and got on the top of sandy table
land thick with splendid stringy-bark, pines, and other trees and shrubs,
amongst which, for the first time, we have seen the fan palm, some of
them growing upwards of fifteen feet high; the bark on the stem is marked
similar to a pineapple's; the leaf very much resembles a lady's fan set
on a long handle, and, a short time after it is cut, closes in the same
manner. At half-past one crossed the table land--breadth thteen miles.
The view was beautiful. Standing on the edge of a precipice, we could see
underneath, lower down, a deep creek thickly wooded running on our
course; then the picturesque precipitous gorge in the table land; then
the gorge in the distance; to the north-west were ranges of hills. The
grass on the table land is coarse, mixed with a little spinifex; about
half of it had been burnt by the natives some time ago. We had to search
for a place to descend, and had great difficulty in doing so, but at last
accomplished it without accident. The valley near the creek, which is a
running stream, is very thickly wooded with tall stringy-bark, gums, and
other kinds of palm-trees, which are very beautiful, the stem growing
upwards of fifty feet high, the leaves from eight to ten feet in length,
with a number of long smaller ones growing from each side, resembling an
immense feather; a great number of these shooting out from the top of the
high stems, and falling gracefully over, has a very pretty, light, and
elegant appearance. Followed the creek for about two miles down this
gorge, and camped on an open piece of ground. The top course of the table
land is a layer of magnetic ironstone, which attracted my compass upwards
of 20 degrees; underneath is a layer of red sandstone, and below that is
an immense mass of white sandstone, which is very soft, and crumbling
away with the action of the atmosphere. In the valley is growing an
immense crop of grass, upwards of four feet high; the cabbage palm is
still in the creek. We have seen a number of new shrubs and flowers. The
course of the table land is north-north-west and south-south-east. The
cliffs, from the camp in the valley, seem to be from two hundred and
fifty to three hundred feet high. Beyond all doubt we are now on the
Adelaide river. Light winds, variable. Latitude, 13 degrees 44 minutes 14
seconds.
Friday, 11th July, Adelaide River, North-west Side, Table Land. The
horses being close at hand, I got an early start at 7.20, course
north-west. In a mile I got greatly bothered by the boggy ground, and
numbers of springs coming from the table land, which I am obliged to
round. At two miles got clear of them, and proceeded over a great number
of stony rises, very steep; they are composed of conglomerate quartz,
underneath which is a course of slates, the direction of which is
north-west, and lying very nearly perpendicular, and also some courses of
ironstone, and a sharp rectangular hard grey flint stone. My horses being
nearly all without shoes, it has lamed a great many of them, and, having
struck the river again at fifteen miles, I camped. They have had a very
hard day's journey. The country is nearly all burnt throughout, but those
portions which have escaped the fire are well grassed. I should think
this is a likely place to find gold in, from the quantity of quartz, its
colour, and having so lately passed a large basaltic and granite country;
the conglomerate quartz being bedded in iron, and the slate
perpendicular, are good signs. The stony rises are covered with
stringy-bark, gum, and other trees, but not so tall and thick as on the
table land and close to it, except in the creek, where it is very large;
the melaleuca is also large. Since leaving the table land we have nearly
lost the beautiful palms; there are still a few at this camp, but they
are not growing so high; the cabbage palm is still in the creek and
valleys. Light winds from south-east. Country burning all round.
Latitude, 13 degrees 38 minutes 24 seconds. This branch I have named the
Mary, in honour of Miss Mary Chambers.
Saturday, 12th July, The Mary, Adelaide River. Started at 7.30; course,
north-west. At one mile and a half came upon a running stream coming from
the north-east; had great difficulty in getting the horses across, the
banks being so boggy. One got fixed in it and was nearly drowned; in an
hour succeeded in getting them all safe across. At six miles I ascended a
high, tall, and stony hill; the view is not good, except to the westward.
In that direction there is seemingly a high range in the far distance,
appearing to run north and south; the highest point of the end of the
range is west, to which the river seems to tend. My horse being so lame
for the want of shoeing, I shall strike in for the river and follow it
for another two miles, as it seems to run so much to the westward. I have
resolved to use some of the horseshoes I have been saving to take me back
over the stony country of South Australia. To enable McGorrerey to get
them all shod on the front feet before Monday, I have camped. There is
still a slaty range on each side of the river, with quartz hills close
down to it; the timber the same as yesterday. The country has recently
all been burned; but, judging from the small patches that have escaped,
has been well grassed up to the pass of the hills. The valley and banks
of the creeks are of beautiful alluvial soil. One new feature seen to-day
is the growing of large clumps of bamboo on the banks of the river, from
fifty to sixty feet in height and about six inches in diameter at the
butt. I am now on one of the tributaries of the Adelaide River. There
must have been a dreadful fire here a few days ago; it has destroyed
everything before it, except the green trees, to the edge of the water.
Slight winds, variable. Latitude, 13 degrees 35 minutes 58 seconds.
Sunday, 13th July, The Mary, Adelaide River. Shoeing horses. Wind blowing
strong; variable from all points of the compass.
Monday, 14th July, The Mary, Adelaide River. One of the horses cannot be
found this morning, and he has been for some time very ill and weak, and
no appearance of getting better. It was my intention to have left him. We
have been all round the tracks forward and backward over the
feeding-ground and can see nothing of him. I am afraid he has gone off to
some place and died; I shall therefore waste no more time in looking for
him. If he is alive I may have a chance of recovering him on my return.
Late start, in consequence of so long looking for him. As I have now got
all the horses shod on the front feet, I shall proceed on a north-west
course through the stony rises, which are still quartz and slate,
splendidly grassed, with gums and other trees and bushes not too thick to
get through with ease. Crossed six small creeks, one with holes with
water in them; the third one, a large creek, which I crossed at nine
miles, I have named William Creek, after the second son of John Chambers,
Esquire, of Adelaide; all running at right angles to my course.
Immediately after crossing this last creek the country changed to
granite; the rises are composed of immense blocks of it, with
occasionally some quartz. The country has been all burned. The valleys
between the granite rises are broad and of first-rate soil, many of them
are quite green, caused by springs oozing from the granite rock. We have
passed a number of trees resembling the iron-bark, also some like new
ones, and many shrubs which Mr. Kekwick has found. Wind, south-east.
Latitude, 13 degrees 29 minutes 25 seconds.