with the water-bags. It takes two men nearly half a day to fill them. The
orifices for filling them are a great deal too small; they ought to be at
least two inches in diameter. The American cloth with which they are
lined is useless in making them watertight, and is a great annoyance in
emptying them, for the water gets between it and the leather. It takes a
long time to draw through again, and does not answer the purpose it was
intended for. A piece of calico would have done far better. It is very
vexing to bring things so far, and, when required, to find them nearly
useless. Wind, south-east. Cloudy. Nights cold, but the day hot.
Friday, 13th June, Purdie Ponds. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge of the
party, started at fifteen minutes past eight with Thring and Auld, also
with King and Billiatt, who were to bring back the horses carrying the
water-bags. Proceeded on a north course, and at seven miles crossed what
seemed to be a water-shed, seemingly running to the west of north. Halted
the party, and sent Thring a short distance to see if the flow was in
that direction. In a quarter of an hour he returned and informed me that
it was, but only very slightly so. Changed to north-north-west to follow
it. It gradually assumed the appearance of a small creek. At two miles
came upon three small pools of water. I now resolve to follow it down and
see where it goes to. I should think there must be more water further on.
Its course is west of north. Continued to follow it down, winding and
twisting about very much to almost every point of the compass. At seven
miles from the pools found a little more water, but not a drop between.
Allowed the horses to drink what there was, and proceeded down it. I sent
Thring to follow it on one side, while I and the rest of the party kept
on the other. By this we were enabled to cut off the bends and see all
the creeks, so that no water could escape us. Twice it became very small,
and I was afraid we were going to lose it altogether, but it commenced
again and became a fine creek. Not a drop of water. At a quarter to five
camped without it. Stony rises are now commencing, which are covered with
gum and other trees, also a low scrub. They are very rough and running
nearly west and south. The one on the west is a continuation of the one I
crossed in coming to Purdie Ponds. The general flow of the creek is
north. Some of the new trees are growing very large on its banks. The
cabbage-tree is growing here also. This is the first time I have met with
it, sometimes growing to the height of fifteen feet. All along the banks
of the creek, and apparently for some distance back, is covered with an
abundance of grass, but all dried up. In some places both horse and rider
were completely hidden by it. Wind, south-east--few clouds. Latitude, 15
degrees 30 minutes 27 seconds.
Saturday, 14th June, River Strangways. Named after the Honourable H.B.
Templar Strangways, Commissioner of Crown Lands, South Australia, and
who, since his taking office, has done all in his power to promote
exploration of the interior. Sent King and Billiatt back with the horses
to the camp at Purdie Ponds, whilst I proceed with the further
examination of the creek. I find it now running to the east of north, and
the stony rises are closing upon it at two miles and a half. They begin
to assume the shape of hills, which causes the travelling to be rather
rough. At three miles and a half the hills run close to the creek, and
are precipitous; the bed is very rough and stony--so much so that I could
not take the horses down it. Ascended a hill near the creek to see what
it and the country ahead was like; the hills being so rough that I could
not get the horses close enough to see if there was any water, dismounted
and scrambled to the top of the precipices; was delighted to see below me
a large hole of water. Sent the horses across a gully to another hill
still higher, while I descended into the creek; found the bed very rough,
having large masses of sandstone and ironstone, which rendered it
impassable for the horses. Found the water to be deep and beautifully
clear; proceeded down a little further, and saw another large one. The
hills close to the creek are very precipitous, and we shall have
difficulty in getting the horses down to water; the hills, where they
come close to the creek, are covered with spinifex. I shall therefore
require to camp the party at the mouth of the gorge, where there is
plenty of feed. The hill I had sent the horses to was so rocky they were
unable to cross it, and there being higher hills still on ahead, I have
left the horses with Auld, and, taking Thring with me, have walked to the
top of it to see what course the creek was taking, but they are all so
much of the same height and appearance that I can scarcely tell in which
direction it runs. There is an appearance of a large creek coming in from
the westward, and higher hills towards the north. I shall return and send
the party on to this permanent water, and try to find an easy road over
the ranges for them. I would have gone on to-day, but my horses are
without shoes, and some of them are already lame, and the shoes I brought
with me are nearly all exhausted; we have not been using any since
shortly after leaving South Australia. Returned to our last night's camp,
where we had left the canvas tank with some water that the horses did not
drink in the morning; gave them what remained, and proceeded up the
creeks to the last water we saw yesterday, where we arrived at sundown
and camped. Wind, south.
Sunday, 15th June, River Strangways. Returned to the Depot at Purdie
Ponds; found all well. Wind, south-east. Cool.
Monday, 16th June, Purdie Ponds. It was late before the horses could be
found. Proceeded to the first pool of water in the River Strangways,
distance about ten miles, and camped. Wind, south-east.
Tuesday, 17th June, River Strangways. Proceeded down the creek to the
gorge and camped; day very hot. We had some difficulty in finding a way
down for the horses to drink, it being so very rough and stony, but at
last succeeded. On the west side there is a layer of rocks on the top of
the hard sandstone, black and rugged, resembling lava; spinifex close to
the creek. Wind, south-east.
Wednesday, 18th June, Gorge, River Strangways. I shall require to have
some of the horses shod for further exploration, and shall therefore
remain here to-day to get that done. I sent Thring and King a little way
down the creek to see what the country is, and if there is any more
water. They went about nine miles, but could see no more. In some places
the country is sandy, and in others stony and grassy. Mr. Kekwick has
discovered four new trees that we have not seen before, and several new
shrubs. Some of the party succeeded in catching a few fine large fish,
some of them weighing two pounds and a half. Some were of the perch
family, and others resembled rock cod, with three remarkable black spots
on each side of their bodies. There are also some small ones resembling
the gold fish, and other small ones with black stripes on their sides,
resembling pilot fish. Wind, south-east. Latitude, 15 degrees 30 minutes
3 seconds.
Thursday, 19th June, Gorge, River Strangways. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in
charge of the party, started with Thring, Auld, and King, to look for
water. No rain seems to have fallen here for a long time back; the grass
is quite dry and withered. At 8.15 proceeded down the river, and, to
avoid the hills, I went about a mile to the west, and found a very
passable road; for about two miles we had sandy soil and spinifex mixed
with grass, also a few stony rises of lime and sandstone. The country
after that again became excellently grassed, the soil light and a little
sandy. No water in the bed, which appears to have a very rapid fall; its
general course is about north-north-east. At twelve miles, seeing a stony
hill of considerable elevation, I left the bed, and went towards it. At
the base of it was a deep creek; I was pleased to see a fine supply of
water in it. I immediately sent Thring back to guide the party up here
to-morrow, whilst I with the two others proceeded with the examination of
the river further down. After following it for about ten miles through a
beautifully grassed country, passing occasionally sandstone rises, with
apparently scrub on their tops, camped at the base of one of them.
Friday, 20th June, First Camp North of Gorge. Returned to the other
water, and at noon met the party and brought them on to this water. We
have passed a few stringy-bark trees. In the bed of the river there is
growing some very large and tall timber, having a dark-coloured bark, the
leaf jointed the same as the shea-oak, but has not the acid taste: the
horses eat it. There are also some very fine melaleuca-trees, which here
seem to displace the gums in the river. We have also passed some more new
trees and shrubs. Frew, in looking about the banks, found a large creeper
with a yellow blossom, and having a large bean pod growing on it. I shall
endeavour to get some of the seed as we go on to-morrow. I shall now move
on with the whole party, and I trust to find water in the river as long
as I follow it; its banks are getting much deeper and broader, and likely
to retain water; it is dreadfully slow work to keep searching for water.
Before this I could not do otherwise, in consequence of the season being
so very dry. Since the commencement of the journey the only rain that we
have had to have any effect upon the creeks was at Mr. Levi's station,
Mount Margaret. Since then we have had only two or three showers, which
have had no effect upon the creeks. Light winds, south-east. Latitude, 15
degrees 15 minutes 23 seconds.
Saturday, 21st June, First Camp North of Gorge. It was late before we
could get a start, in consequence of our not being able to find two of
the horses which separated from the rest during the night. Started,
following the river down; it frequently separating into two or three
channels, and again joining. Numerous small watercourses are coming in on
both sides, from east and west; it winds about a great deal--its general
course to-day for nine miles has been nearly north-north-east. We passed
a number of large lagoons, nearly dry, close to the stony hills: when
full they must retain water for a long time. There is very little water
in the main channel. At nine miles I found a large and excellent pool of
water in one of the side creeks; it will last some time. It being now
afternoon, and there being a nice open plain for the horses, I have
camped. The river is now running through stony hills, which are very
rough, composed of hard sandstone mixed with veins of quartz, some of
which are very hard, much resembling marble with crystalline grains in
it. We are now passing a number of stringy bark along with gum and other
trees, Mr. Kekwick still finding new shrubs. After we had camped, taking
Thring with me, I ascended a hill a little way from the camp, but was
disappointed in not having an extensive view. To the north, which is now
apparently the course of the river, there seems to be an opening in the
range of stony hills. The dip of the country seems to be that way. At 33
degrees east of north from the camp, about eight miles distant, there is
a high wooded tent-hill on the range; this I have named Mount Muller,
after my friend the well-known botanist of Victoria. All round about are
rough stony hills with grassy valleys between, having spinifex growing on
their sides and tops. The valley through which the main channel flows is
good soil, and covered with grass from two to four feet high. Towards the
north-west the hills appear to be very rugged. Wind south-east, with a
few clouds. Latitude, 15 degrees 10 minutes 40 seconds.
Sunday, 22nd June, Rock Camp, River Strangways. A few heavy clouds about.
We are now in the country discovered by Mr. Gregory. There is a great
deal of very good timber in the valley, which is getting larger and
improving as we advance. It is still very thick--so much so, that the
hills cannot be seen until quite close to them. Wind variable. Latitude,
15 degrees 10 minutes 30 seconds.
Monday, 23rd June, Rock Camp, River Strangways. This morning the sky is
overcast with light clouds coming from the south-east. Started at eight
o'clock, still following the river, which winds about very much; its
general course 10 degrees east of north. At nine miles the channel became
much smaller, and shortly afterwards separated into numerous small ones,
and was apparently lost to me. I continued a north course, and at twelve
miles struck a creek coming from the south-east; at two miles from this
creek found another large one coming from the south-west, with shea-oak
in it, which makes me suppose it is the River Strangways, and that it
formed again and joined this one. At the junction were numerous recent
fires of the natives; there must have been a great many of them, for
their fires covered the ground, also shells of the mussel which they had
been eating. Searched for water, and found a little, but not sufficient
for my horses, and too difficult to approach; the course of the river is
still to the north. One mile and a half from the junction found enough
water that will do for me at night. As there seems to be so little water,
and this day being exceedingly hot and oppressive, I have camped. The
country travelled over to-day has been of the same description,
completely covered with long grass; the soil rich, and a great many of
the cabbage-tree growing about it. Wind variable. Latitude, 14 degrees 58
minutes 55 seconds.
Tuesday, 24th June, Mussel Camp, River Strangways. With the sun there
came up a very thick and heavy fog which continued for about two hours;
it then cleared off and the day became exceedingly hot. The river, after
rounding the hills (where we were camped), ran nearly east for three
miles, meeting there a stony hill which again throws it into a northerly
course. I ascended the hill, but could see nothing distinctly, the fog
being so thick. Descended and pursued the bed, which separated frequently
into many channels, and at ten miles it spread into a large area, and its
courses became small with no water in them. The grass above our heads was
so high and thick that the rear-party lost me and could not find the
rocks; by cooeing I brought them to me again. Before I had heard them I
had sent Thring back to pick up their tracks and bring them to the clear
ground I was on with the rest of the party, but they arrived before he
made up to them. The scrub is also very thick close to the river. Mr.
Kekwick found cane growing in the bed, and also brought in a specimen of
a new water-lily--a most beautiful thing it is; it is now in Mr.
Waterhouse's collection. At twelve miles, finding some water, the horses
being tired in crossing so many small creeks, and working through the
scrub and long grass, I camped at the open ground. The country gone over
to-day is again splendidly grassed in many places, especially near the
river; it has very lately been burned by the natives. There are a great
number of them running along the banks; the country now seems to be
thickly inhabited. Towards the east and the north-east the country is in
a blaze; there is so much grass the fire must be dreadful. I hope it will
not come near us. The day has been most oppressively hot, with scarcely a
breath of wind. Latitude, 14 degrees 51 minutes 51 seconds.
Wednesday, 25th June, River Strangways. Two of the horses having
separated from the others, and crossing the river, quite hidden in the
long grass, it was late before they were found. Started at nine o'clock;
course about 70 degrees east of north, following the channel. I expect,
in two or three miles, to meet with the Roper. At three miles struck a
large sheet of deep clear water, on which were a number of natives, with
their lubras and children; they set up a fearful yelling and squalling,
and ran off as fast as they could. Rounded the large sheet of water and
proceeded along it. At a mile, three men were seen following; halted the
party, and went up to them. One was a very old man, one middle-aged, the
third a young, stout, well-made fellow; they seemed to be friendly. Tried
to make them understand by signs that I wished to get across the river;
they made signs, by pointing down the river, by placing both hands
together, having the fingers closed, which led me to think I could get
across further down. They made signs for us to be off, and that they were
going back again. I complied with their request, and after bidding each
other a friendly good-bye, we followed down the banks of the river, which
I now find is the Roper. At seven miles tried to cross it, but found it
to be impossible; it is now divided into a number of channels, very deep
and full of running water. Proceeded further, and tried it at several
places, but with the same result. At twelve miles, camped close to a
steep rocky hill on the north side of the river. Searched all round for a
crossing, but was unable to find one. To the eastward the country is all
on fire. The banks of the river are thickly lined with cabbage-trees,
also the cane, bamboo, and other shrubs. Two small turtle-shells were
picked up by the party at the native camp. The country is still of the
same fine description. We are now north of Mr. Gregory's tracks.
Latitude, 14 degrees 5 minutes. Wind variable.
Thursday, 26th June, Roper River. As I cannot find a crossing, I shall
have to return to my last camp and try to cross there. Arrived and
camped. Day again oppressively hot. Almost immediately on leaving our
camp this morning I observed native tracks on ours close to it. They must
have followed us up last night, although we saw nothing of them. They are
not to be trusted: they will pretend the greatest friendship one moment
and spear you the next. They have been following us to-day, but keeping
on the other side of the river and setting fire to the grass as they go
along. I wish it would rain and cause the grass to become green, so as to
stop them burning, as well as to give me some fresh food for the horses,
for they now begin to show the want of it very much; it is so dried up
that there is little nourishment in it. Some of them are beginning to
look very poor and are much troubled with worms. My journeys have been
very short last week, in consequence of my being so weak from the effects
of scurvy and a severe attack of dysentery, for I have scarcely been able
to endure the motion of horseback for four hours at a time; but having
lately obtained some native cucumbers, I find they are doing me a deal of
good, and hope by next week to be all right again. Wind, south. Latitude,
14 degrees 51 minutes 51 seconds.
Friday, 27th June, West Roper River. Started on a course of 320 degrees,
crossing the river, and at three miles and a half again struck the Roper,
running. Followed it up, coming nearly from the west, but winding about
very much, and having many branches, which makes it very difficult for me
to get the turns correctly. It is a splendid river. We have passed many
brooks and deep reaches of water some miles in length, and the country
could not be better: it is really magnificent. At 2.30 I was informed
that we were short of a horse. Sent Messrs. Kekwick and Thring back to
see where he was left. We have had to cross so many boggy, nasty places,
with deep water and thick scrub, that he must have been missed at one of
these. The general course of the river to-day has been 280 degrees.
Distance, fifteen miles. Messrs. Kekwick and Thring are returned. They
found the horse bogged in a side creek. It was so thick with cabbage-tree
that they passed in searching for him two or three times. They had great
difficulty in getting him out, but at last succeeded, and arrived at the
camp before dark. A short time before that, another horse got into a very
deep and rapid channel of the river, the top of the banks projecting so
much that he could not get out, and the gum-trees having fallen across
both above and below him, he was completely fixed. We endeavoured to get
him out, but it got so dark that we could not see him, and the rope
breaking that we were pulling him out by, he got his head under water,
and was drowned in a moment. We then found that the cause of the rope
breaking was that he had got one of his hind feet entangled in a sunken
tree. It being now so dark we can do no more to-night, and have left him
in the water until daylight. Wind, south-east. Latitude, 14 degrees 47
minutes 26 seconds.
Saturday, 28th June, Roper River. As I shall be short of meat, I remain
here to-day to cut up the horse and dry him. The water of this river is
most excellent; the soil is also of the first description; and the grass,
although dry, most abundant, from two to five feet high. This is
certainly the finest country I have seen in Australia. We passed three
rocky hills yesterday, not high, but having grass up to their tops, round
which the river winds at their base, forming large and long reaches of
water. On the grassy plains it forms into different channels, and is
thickly timbered with shea-oak, gum, cabbage-trees, and other trees and
shrubs. Wind variable.
Sunday, 29th June, Roper River. We are all enjoying a delightful change
of fresh meat from dry. It is a great treat, and the horse eats
remarkably well, although not quite so good as a bullock. At sundown the
meat is not all quite dry, but I think we shall be able to preserve the
greater part of it. The natives are still burning the grass round about
us, but they have not made their appearance either yesterday or to-day.
Wind variable.
Monday, 30th June, Roper River. Started at 8.10, course west, following
up the river, which winds about very much from north-west to south, and
at last to south-east. When coming close to where the grass was on fire,
finding a good ford, I crossed the party to the north-east side. At
fifteen miles came upon a large reedy swamp through which the river
seemed to flow, and again at twenty miles came upon the river running
into the swamp, and coming from the north-north-west. Although travelling
twenty miles we have not made more than ten miles in a straight line; the
general course is west. The country is of the same excellent description.
We have passed the stony rises on the north side of the river, which are
covered with grass to their tops. After crossing the river I ascended
another of the same kind. To the south are a few hills scattered over the
grassy plains, with lines of dark-green trees between them, showing that
they are creeks flowing into the river whose junctions we have been
crossing to-day; the same to the south-west, and at west 20" south the
distance appears level, with a single peak just visible. To the
north-west seemingly stony hills; to the north the same; to the east I
could see nothing, for the smoke conceals from me the country; it is all
on fire. The river is still running very rapidly, and as this is a
different branch from those previously discovered, I have named it the
River Chambers, after my late lamented friend, James Chambers, Esquire,
whose zeal in the cause of Australian exploration is already well known.
A short time before sundown a number of natives were seen approaching the
camp. We were immediately prepared for them. I sent Mr. Kekwick forward
to see what their intentions were--friendly or hostile. I immediately
followed. On reaching them they appeared quite friendly. There were three
men, four lubras, and a number of children. One, an old man, presented a
very singular appearance--his legs being about four feet long, and his
entire height seven feet, and so remarkably thin that he appeared to be a
perfect shadow. Mr. Kekwick having a fish-hook stuck in his hat, which
immediately caught the tall old fellow's eye, he made signs of its use,
and that he would like to possess it. I told Mr. Kekwick to give it to
him, which seemed to please him much. After examining it he handed it
over to a young man, seemingly his son, who was a fat, stout fellow, and
who was laughing nearly all the time. The other was a middle-aged man of
the ordinary height. The women were small, and very ugly. Wind,
south-east. Latitude, 14 degrees 47 minutes 24 seconds.