the knocked-up horse to the Depot; he appears to be very ill, and is
looking very bad this morning. Arrived there and found all right; they
had been visited by the natives twice during my absence. They appeared to
be very friendly, and were hugging Frew and King, for whom they seemed to
have taken a great fancy; they were old, young, and children. Some pieces
of white tape were given to them, which pleased them much. They still
pointed to the west, as the place where the large water is, and made
signs with a scoop to show that they have to dig for it in going through;
which I am now almost sure is the case from what I saw of the country in
my last journey in that direction. In upwards of fifty miles we did not
see the least signs of a watercourse--nor could I discover any dip in the
country; it has the same appearance all round; one cannot see more than
half a mile before one, and in many places only a few yards. I have been
deceived once or twice by what appeared to be a dip in the country, but
it turned out to be only lower trees and scrub than what we were
travelling through. With a small party I might make the Victoria from
here, but there is every chance of losing the horses in doing so; and I
should be in a sad predicament to be there without horses, and without
the possibility of receiving supplies from the party at the Depot; I
should have to perish there. Therefore, I consider it would be folly and
madness to attempt it, and might be the cause of sacrificing the lives of
both parties. Had the feed been green, or had it any substance in it, I
would have tried, but every blade of grass is parched and dried up as in
the middle of summer, and the horses have not the strength nor endurance
to undergo much privation, of which I have had a proof in the journey I
have just taken. After resting a day or two to recover the horses, and
get ourselves a little refreshed, I shall move the party up to King's
Ponds, and try to push through wherever I can find an opening. Day very
hot. Wind, south-east. A few clouds came up from that quarter after
sundown.
Tuesday, 13th May, Depot, Howell Ponds. Resting ourselves and horses. Day
again hot, with a few clouds round the horizon. The natives had again set
fire to the country all around, which increases the heat. I wish it would
come on to rain, and put out their fires, and fill the ponds, which are
shrinking a great deal more than I expected. Wind, south-east. Clouds.
Wednesday, 14th May, Depot, Howell Ponds. As I don't feel well enough
to-day, I shall remain here, and start to-morrow morning. This morning,
while Thring was collecting the horses, he came on a place where the
natives had been encamped a day or two before, and there saw the remains
of the bones of one of them that had apparently been burnt; this is
another new feature in their customs. Wind, south-east.
Thursday, 15th May, Depot, Howell Ponds. Started with the party across
the plain to Frew's Water Hole, course 15 degrees east of north; found
the plain burnt for ten miles. The fire has been so great that it has
burned every blade of grass, and scorched all the trees to their very
tops. I was very fortunate the other day in having escaped it; nothing
could have lived in such a fire, and had we been caught in it we must
have perished. Wind, south-east. Clouds all gone, Latitude, 16 degrees 54
minutes 7 seconds.
Friday, 16th May, Frew's Water Hole. Started at fourteen minutes past
eight o'clock a.m., course 345 degrees, for King's Chain of Ponds.
Arrived at about half-past three o'clock p.m. In coming through, one of
the horses separated from the rest and bolted off into the dense forest,
tearing everything down before him. We got him in again, but with a
broken saddle, and the top off one of the bags, which we afterwards
recovered. Arrived at the ponds without any further accident. Wind,
north-east. Very hot, and a few clouds. Latitude, 16 degrees 38 minutes
53 seconds.
Saturday, 17th May, King's Chain of Ponds. Sent King and Thring to follow
round the flat to see where the ponds go to. About noon they returned,
and reported that the water loses itself in a flat, which is surrounded
by thick forest and scrub. This certainly is a very pretty place, and a
great pity it is not more extensive. It reminds me much of the park land
found by Captain Sturt in 1845, where he had his second depot, named Fort
Grey. Wind, south-east, with a few clouds.
Sunday, 18th May, King's Chain of Ponds. In the afternoon the sky became
cloudy, and at sundown was quite overcast; the day exceedingly hot, and
the wind nearly calm. The clouds came from the north-west, and the little
wind there is from the south-east.
Monday, 19th May, King's Chain of Ponds. As the sky is overcast with
clouds, so that I cannot see the sun, and as it is nearly impossible to
keep a straight course in such thick country without it, I shall remain
here to-day, and if it should break up I shall endeavour to take a lunar
observation. At 9 o'clock a.m. it cleared up, which enabled me to take
one. The remainder of the day very hot. Wind variable, with clouds from
every direction; towards sundown it again settled in the south-east, and
all the clouds disappeared without any rain falling.
Tuesday, 20th May, King's Chain of Ponds. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge
of the party, I started with Thring, King, and Auld, at half-past nine
a.m., on a northern course; at one o'clock p.m. changed to 65 degrees, to
what appeared to be a bare hill. At a little more than a mile struck a
small watercourse running towards the north; followed it, and at about
two miles and a half came on some ponds of water, but not so large as
those at our depot; at present they are not more than three feet and a
half deep. Examined around the wooded plain to see if there was any
larger body of water, but could see none. This plain is covered with
small gums, having a dark bluish-green leaf with a grey-coloured bark;
there are also a few white ones around the ponds of water, which abound
with grass. Before reaching the plain we crossed what seemed to be
elevated sandy table land, extending about nine miles, covered with
spinifex and dark-coloured gum-trees; we also passed two or three narrow
belts of tall mulga and hedge-trees which grow on the stony rises, about
twenty feet high. These ponds I name Auld's Ponds, in token of my
approbation of his conduct. Wind, south-east. Latitude, 16 degrees 28
minutes 16 seconds.
Wednesday, 21st May, Auld's Chain of Ponds. Started at twenty minutes
past eight o'clock a.m., course north. The morning was so thick, with a
heavy fog, that I did not get a start till late. At three miles I found
another chain of ponds, but not so large; these I name McGorrerey Ponds.
Proceeded on the same course and passed through some thick belts of
hedge-tree and scrub; the country then opened and became splendidly
grassed, with gums and other trees. We also saw, for the first time, a
new gum-tree, having a large broad dark-green leaf, and the bark of a
nankeen colour, which gave a very pretty effect to the country. At
seventeen miles, not finding any water, and having passed five deep holes
surrounded with ironstone conglomerate rock similar to Frew's Water Hole,
but without any water in them, and to all appearance the dip of the
country being to the north-east, I have changed my course to that
direction, again travelling over a splendidly grassed country for ten
miles, occasionally meeting with low stony rises of ironstone and gravel,
at the foot of which were some more deep holes without water. In the last
three miles we had to get through a few patches of scrub; the grass is
all very dry. No rain seems to have fallen here for a long time. At
sundown camped without water. Day very hot. Wind variable, with a few
clouds. Latitude, 16 degrees 8 minutes 39 seconds.
Thursday, 22nd May, Fine Grass Country. Returned to McGorrerey Ponds. Day
very hot, and the horses much distressed for want of water; they have the
appearance of being half-starved for a month, and have taken an immense
quantity of water, having gone to it about four or five times in an hour.
As I am not satisfied that these ponds cease here, I shall try again
to-morrow a little more to the east. Wind, south-east.
Friday, 23rd May, McGorrerey Ponds. Gave the horses a little time to feed
after daylight in consequence of their having been tethered during the
night; the country is so thickly wooded that I dare not trust them in
hobbles the whole night, as, if they were lost sight of there would be
great difficulty in finding them here. There is still the appearance of a
small creek, which I shall follow until it runs out or trends too much to
the east. Started at half-past eight o'clock a.m., course 20 degrees east
of north, following the small creek about two miles; it seems to be
getting larger, with occasionally a little water in it. We have also
seen, on both sides of us, ponds with water surrounded by gum-trees;
these ponds, when full, must retain water for a long time. We have also
seen a new tree growing on the banks of the creek, with a large straight
barrel, dark smooth bark, with bunches of bright yellow flowers and
palmated leaves. At a mile and a half further the creek is improving
wonderfully. We have now passed some fine holes of water, which will last
at least three months; at five miles the water is becoming more plentiful
and the creek broader and deeper, but twisting and turning about very
much, sometimes running east and then turning to the west and all other
points of the compass. Having seen what I consider to be permanent water,
I shall now run a straight course, 20 degrees east of north, and strike
it occasionally to see if the water continues. I have named these Daly
Waters, in honour of his Excellency the Governor-in-Chief. Within a
hundred yards the banks are thickly wooded with tall mulga and lancewood
scrub; but to the east is open gum forest, splendidly grassed. Proceeded,
occasionally touching the creek, and always found fine reaches of water,
which continued a considerable way. At thirteen miles they become smaller
and wider apart; at fifteen miles the creek seems to be trending more to
the eastward, its bed is now conglomerate ironstone, and, as this appears
to be about the last water, I shall give the horses a drink and follow it
as far as it goes. In a short distance it has become quite dry, with a
deep broad course upwards of twenty yards wide. At seventeen miles it
separated into two channels, and at a quarter of a mile the two channels
emptied themselves into a large boggy swamp, with no surface water. I
examined the swamp, but could see no outlet. The country round about is
thickly timbered with gum and other trees. Returned to the last water and
camped. I shall return to the Depot and bring the party up here. Wind,
south-east; a few clouds at sunset.
Saturday, 24th May, Chain of Ponds, Large Creek. Followed my tracks back
to Auld's Chain of Ponds, and had difficulty in doing so, the ground
being so hard that the hoofs of the horses scarcely left any impression
on it. This would be a fearful country for any one to be lost in, as
there is nothing to guide them, and one cannot see more than three
hundred yards around, the gum-trees are so thick, and the small belts of
lancewood make it very deceptive. Should any one be so unfortunate as to
be lost, it would be quite impossible to find them again; it would be
imprudent to search for them, for by so doing the searchers would run the
risk of being lost also. Arrived at Auld's Ponds and camped. Wind,
south-east. A few clouds.
Sun day, 25th May, Auld's Chain of Ponds. Proceeded to the Depot, where I
arrived in the afternoon and found all well. No natives have been near
them, although some of their smoke has been seen at a short distance from
the Depot. Yesterday we hoisted the Union Jack in honour of her Most
Gracious Majesty's birthday, that being the only thing we had to
commemorate this happy event, with our best wishes for her long and happy
reign. Wind, south-east.
Monday, 26th May, Chain of Ponds. Removed the party on to Auld's Chain of
Ponds.
Tuesday, 27th May, Auld's Chain of Ponds. Proceeded with the party to the
fourth chain of ponds and creek. This water has every appearance of being
permanent, and I hope I may fall in with such another in the next degree
of latitude. It may be from this that the Wickham receives a supply of
water when this overflows. Wind, south-west. Latitude, 16 degrees 14
minutes 31 seconds.
Wednesday, 28th May, Daly Waters, Fourth Chain of Ponds and Creeks. Sent
Thring and King to round the swamp into which this creek flows, to see if
there is any outlet to the eastward of this within two miles. There are
other ponds and a creek, which also empties itself into a swamp a little
to the eastward of the one into which this one empties itself. In the
afternoon they returned, having found a small watercourse forming the
north-west side of the swamp; followed it, running nearly 10 degrees east
of north. In about one mile and a half they came upon a large swamp
covered with water, but shallow. They then proceeded seven miles on a
north-east course; then meeting with some white-barked gum-trees,
appearing to run to the north-west, followed them for three miles,
crossing a gum and grass plain. Observing some native smoke to
north-east, they returned. Wind, south-east.
Thursday, 29th May, Daly Waters. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge of the
camp, at half-past seven o'clock proceeded with Thring, Auld, and Frew
down the creek to examine the swamp found yesterday. It is about 30
degrees east of north, about three miles from the Depot at Daly Waters.
The water does not appear to be deep, but covers a large area; there were
a few pelicans and other water-birds on it. From this we proceeded, on a
course 20 degrees east of north, to search the flat where Thring and King
saw the smoke yesterday. At eighteen miles from Daly Waters, having
crossed the gum plain without meeting with any water, and being on
apparently higher ground than the plain, I changed my course to 90
degrees east of north. At two miles and a half again crossed the plain,
and got upon low rising ground of ironstone and gravel, but still no
water. Changed to former bearing of 20 degrees east of north, and at
seven miles came upon a dry swamp, covered with long blue grass and deep
holes, but still no water could we find. Proceeded another mile, and
finding I was getting on rising ground, and the horses having done a long
and heavy day's journey, camped without water. After leaving the swamp
with the water (which was very boggy all round it), the country became
similar to that of Sturt Plains surrounding Newcastle Water, being so
full of deep holes that we were in danger of getting our necks broken,
and also the horses' legs. The soil is good, and completely covered with
grass and stunted gum-trees. In rainy weather it seems to be covered with
water. There is no watercourse, or any appearance of which way the water
flows. A number of various kinds of birds were about. Wind variable, but
mostly from south-west. Latitude, 15 degrees 56 minutes 11 seconds.
Friday, 30th May, North-north-east of Blue-Grass Swamp. Wishing to see a
little more of the country further on and to find where the birds get
their water, I proceeded with Thring, leaving the other two behind with
the horses, three miles and a half on the same course, following their
flight. In half a mile came again upon the stunted gum plain, splendidly
grassed to above the horses' knees. Can find no water, although the birds
are still round about us. The same description of country continues from
the swamp with the water to beyond this, consisting of small undulations
of gravel and ironstone. Retraced my steps to where I had left the other
two, and proceeded towards the Depot at nine miles. The country was in a
blaze of fire to the east of us. I am very thankful there was scarcely a
breath of wind, which enabled us to pass within a quarter of a mile of
it: had there been a strong wind we should have been in great danger, the
grass being so long and thick. Returned to the Depot after six p.m.,
being all very tired with the shaking we have had the last two days by
the horses falling into the holes nearly every step, and they also are
nearly exhausted; twelve hours in the saddle over such a country is no
easy task. It was my intention to have come back more to the east, but
having seen the smoke I saw we should be in the middle of the fire, and
so changed my intention. Wind, south-west. Very hot.
Saturday, 31st May, Daly Waters. As there are no appearances of rain, the
weather very hot, and I have a good deal of work in plans, etc. to bring
up, I shall remain here until Monday. I feel this heavy work much more
than I did the journey of last year; so much of it is beginning to tell
upon me. I feel my capability of endurance beginning to give way. There
are a number of small fish in this water, from three to five inches long,
something resembling a perch; the party are catching them with hooks;
they are a great relish to us, who have lived so long upon dry meat. Any
change is very agreeable. Wind variable.
Sunday, 1st June, Daly Waters. The day has been as hot as if it were in
the middle of summer. Surely we must get a change soon. Wind variable,
with a few light clouds. Mr. Waterhouse has shot two new parrots.
Monday, 2nd June, Daly Waters. Leaving the party in charge of Mr.
Kekwick, I started at twenty minutes past seven (course north), with
Thring, Auld, and Frew. Camped at 4.20. The whole day's journey has been
through a splendid grass country, and open forest of gum-trees and other
shrubs, some of them new to us. Here again we have also met with the
bean-tree, the blossoms of a bright crimson, and at this season they seem
to shed their leaves. The country passed over consisted mostly of
undulations of ironstone and gravel, with a brown-coloured rock
occasionally, between which were broad valleys of a light-coloured soil,
all cracked and having many deep holes, which, being hidden with the long
grass, caused the horses to tumble into them, and made it very fatiguing
both to them and us. I have been constantly in the hope all day of coming
upon some water, but have been disappointed. After rain this country can
be passed over with the greatest facility, for we have passed holes that
will hold water for a long time. The dip of this country is now to the
eastward. To-day I think I have been running along where the dip
commences from the table land. It was my intention to have tried a
journey to the north-west; but, from what I have seen of the country
to-day, and on my other journeys to the north, as well as Mr. Gregory's
description of it on the other side, I am led to believe that it would be
hopeless to expect to find water there. To try it will only be losing
time, and reducing the strength of my horses. I must now try on a
north-east course towards the Gulf of Carpentaria. I do not wish to go
east if I can help it; but I must go where the water leads me. During the
day's journey we passed through three narrow belts of hedge-tree scrub,
which was very thick. There does not seem to be so much of that as we get
to the north, neither is there so much of the tall mulga. We have not
seen a drop of water since we left the camp. Camped without it. Wind,
south. Day very hot. Latitude, 15 degrees 50 minutes 20 seconds.
Tuesday, 3rd June, Gum Forest. Fine country. I sent Thring on three miles
to see if there was any change, there being a number of birds about that
frequent the place where water is. I think there may still be a chance of
falling in with some. He has returned and can see none. Country the same
as that travelled over yesterday. Returned to the Depot. Arrived a little
before sundown, and found all well. Wind light; south. Day again very
hot.
Wednesday, 4th June, Daly Waters. Preparing for a start to-morrow to the
north-east. I shall take the water-bags; they may retain as much as will
suffice for a drink night and morning for four horses. I shall proceed to
the blue-grass swamp that I found in my last north-north-east course,
trace that down as far as it goes, and, should there be no water, shall
strike for the sources of the Wickham River. Wind, south-south-east.
Thursday, 5th June, Daly Waters. Started at a quarter to eight with
Thring and Auld, taking all the water-bags full, also King and Billiatt
to take back the horses that carry the water. I have chosen King for this
purpose, as being the next best bushman to Thring, and one in whom I can
place the greatest dependence to execute any charge I may give him with
care and faithfulness. At four o'clock arrived at the blue-grass swamp.
Changed my course to 70 degrees east of north, following down the middle
of it, which contains a great number of large deep holes in which water
has been, but are now quite dry. Followed it until it spread itself over
the plain, causing a great number of deep cracks and holes completely
covered with grass, gums, and other trees, too thick to get an easy
passage through. At sundown camped on the plain without water. A few
hours before sundown the sky had a very peculiar appearance to the
eastward, as if a black fog were rising, or smoke from an immense fire at
a long distance off, but it was too extensive for that. At sundown it
assumed a more distinct aspect in the shape of black clouds coming from
that direction. Wind, south-east.
Friday, 6th June, Plain East of Blue Swamp. Sent King and Billiatt back
with the horses, while I proceeded with the other two on a course 70
degrees east of north. At a mile and a half came suddenly upon a scrubby
ironstone rise about twenty feet high. After passing over a rotten plain,
full of holes and covered with grass and stunted gum-trees, proceeded to
the top, from which we had a good view of the surrounding country--to all
appearance one of the blackest and most dismal views a man ever beheld;
even the splendid grass country I had been coming through has the same
appearance. The cause of it is the trees being so thick, and some of them
of a very dark colour, that nothing but their tops can be seen, which
gives it the appearance of being a dense scrub. To the west there is an
appearance of a scrubby rise--the one on which I have been on my other
journeys to the north. No hills visible; all appears to be a level
country. Proceeded down the gradual slope, crossing two other lower
ironstone undulations, meeting occasionally with small rotten plains with
holes, and covered with grass. At five miles the ground became firmer; at
seven miles met with what seemed to be a water-shed. After a long search
found that the flow of the water was to the west of north; traced it a
short distance to the south-east and found a small shallow pool of water
and gave our horses a drink; and wishing to take advantage of anything
that may take me to the north-west, I turned and traced it down; passed
three ponds with some water in them, and at three miles came upon a fine
large one two and a half feet deep; followed it still on, but was
disappointed on finding it terminate in a dry swamp, all cracked and full
of holes; circled round it to see if the creek took up again, but could
see no appearance of any. As this last pond will do for the party, I will
return and bring them up, for there is a slight appearance of rain, and I
wish to get them on as far as possible before the winter rain comes on.
Returned to our last night's camp, where we arrived at sundown. Wind,
south-east, with few clouds.
Saturday, 7th June, Plain East of Blue Swamp. Returned to the Depot;
found all well. Clouds all gone, but the wind blowing strong from the
south-east.
Sunday, 8th June, Daly Waters. Strong winds still from south-east, and
sometimes from the south. Day very hot.
Monday, 9th June, Daly Waters. Last night, a little after sundown, Mr.
Waterhouse was seized with a violent pain in the stomach, which was
followed by a severe sickness, and continued throughout the night; this
morning he is a little better. I think it was caused by eating some
boiled gum which had been obtained from the nut-tree Mr. Kekwick
discovered last year. When boiled it very much resembles tapioca, and has
much the same taste. I also ate some of it yesterday, which occasioned a
severe pain in the stomach, but soon went off. Some of the others also
felt a little affected by it, but none so bad as Mr. Waterhouse; on
others it had no effect whatever, and they still continue to eat it. Mr.
Waterhouse looks so ill that I think it desirable not to move the party
to-day, and trust by to-morrow he will be quite well. Light wind from the
south-east, with a few clouds.
Tuesday, 10th June, Daly Waters. As Mr. Waterhouse is better, I shall
move the party to-day. Started at half-past eight a.m., following my
former tracks. At half-past four p.m. camped at the blue-grass swamp;
twenty-six miles without water. The horses will require to be watched
during the night. Wind, south-east. Day very hot. Latitude, 15 degrees 56
minutes 31 seconds.
Wednesday, 11th June, Blue-Grass Swamp. Started at seven o'clock; course,
70 degrees east of north. At three miles crossed the ironstone rise, and
at eleven miles changed to north, to cut the chain of ponds, which I have
named Purdie Ponds, in honour of Dr. Purdie, of Edinburgh, M.D. At one
mile and three quarters, on the last course, camped on the largest pond.
The country that we have gone over, although there are a number of holes
and cracks in it, is really of the best description, covered with grass
up to the horses' bodies. We have passed several new trees and shrubs.
The bean-tree is becoming more numerous here. At this season and in this
latitude it sheds its leaves; the flower is in full bloom without them.
The course of the ironstone rise seems to be north and south. Wind,
south-east. Weather a little cooler, but clouds all gone. Latitude, 15
degrees 52 minutes 58 seconds.