Creek on the 31st. On April 3rd, while crossing the Gleeson, Kekwick's
horse fell back with him in ascending the bank, and broke the stock of
his gun, but he himself escaped unhurt. On Saturday, April 5th, they
camped at the east end of Newcastle Water, and the following day, "at
about 9 o'clock a.m. Kekwick, in endeavouring to shoot some ducks, went
towards some native smoke, and was met by two natives, who ran away. In
an hour afterwards, five natives came within a hundred yards of the camp,
and seemed anxious to come up to it, but were not permitted. Two hours
afterwards we were again visited by fifteen more, to some of whom a
present was made of some looking-glasses and handkerchiefs; at the same
time they were given to understand that they must not approach nearer to
the camp, and signs were made to them to return to their own camp, which
they shortly did. In the afternoon we were again visited by nineteen of
them, who approached within a hundred yards of the camp, when they all
sat down and had a good stare at us, remaining a long time without
showing any inclination to go. At length some of them started the horses
which were feeding near the water, and made them gallop towards the camp.
This so frightened the natives that they all ran away, and we were not
troubled with them for the rest of the evening."
The next day the camp was moved to the north end of Newcastle Water,
where they remained for a week resting horses and repairing bags,
saddles, etc. The Journal then continues as follows:
Monday, 14th April, North End of Newcastle Water. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in
charge of the party, started with Thring and Frew at 7.15 a.m., on a
northerly course, in search of water; and at six miles, on the edge of
the open plains, found some rainwater, sufficient for a few days.
Proceeded across the plain on the same course; but at three miles saw
something like a watercourse, and changed my course to 20 degrees, to see
what it was. At two miles I struck a dry course running south-west.
Followed it up towards the small rise without finding any water. Three
miles further on the same course I ascended a low stony rise, from which
I could see nothing but a thick forest of tall mulga and gums. I changed
to a northerly course, and, at 4.20 p.m., camped in a forest without
water. Wind, south-east.
Tuesday, 15th April, Sturt Plains, Forest. Proceeded on a course of 250
degrees, and at five miles again struck the open plains, and changed to
180 degrees. At one mile I found a fine water hole three feet deep and
about forty feet in diameter, the edge of which was surrounded with
conglomerate ironstone rock; watered the horses, and proceeded on a
southerly course, through grassy plains with stunted gum-trees, to the
first water I found yesterday, and camped. The plains and forest are of
the same description as I have already given, only that the plains have
not quite so many holes in them, and the forest in many places is covered
with ironstone gravel. I shall try a course to the north of west
to-morrow, to see if I can find water. Wind variable.
Wednesday, 16th April, Frew's Water Hole, Sturt Plains. Started at 7.45
a.m., on a course of 302 degrees, keeping along the edge of the open
plain. I have made many twistings and turnings, but my general course is
north-west for ten miles. Seeing a small rise on the open plain, a little
to the north of west, I changed to 275 degrees; and at two miles came on
some fine ponds of water about one mile and a half long, twenty feet
broad, and three feet and a half deep. I examined them on both sides, to
see if they would do for a permanent camp for the party as it is a point
nearer; and I think I may depend on the water lasting two months without
any more rain. I shall camp here to-night, and try another day to-morrow
to the westward, and endeavour to make the Victoria, for I can see but
little chance of making the Adelaide. By my journal of the 14th,
everything is quite dry and parched up; no rain seems to have fallen
there for a long time. The last two days have been excessively hot. The
further to the west the hotter I find it. The natives seem to be
numerous, for their smoke in the scrub is to be seen in every direction.
I name these ponds after John Howell, Esquire, of Adelaide.
Thursday, 17th April, Howell Ponds. Started at 7 a.m., on a bearing 10
degrees north of west. At twelve miles crossed the open plains, and
entered a thick forest of gums and other trees and shrubs. Seeing that
there is no chance of finding water to-day, returned to the ponds. The
open plains seem to tend more to the north-west; I shall examine them
when I bring the party up to the ponds. Distance, fifteen miles. Wind,
south-east.
Friday, 18th April, Howell Ponds. Started for the camp on the Newcastle
Water. On my arrival, I found the party all right, but very anxious about
me, as I had been absent longer than I intended. No natives had been near
them during my absence at this time; smoke was seen all around. Weather
hot during the day, but cold at night and in the morning. Wind,
south-east.
Saturday, 19th April, North End of Newcastle Water. I shall remain here
till Monday, in order to take some lunar observations, as I am not quite
certain that my longitude is correct. Wind, south-east.
Sunday, 20th April, North End of Newcastle Water. Wind from the east;
blowing strongly during the day, but it dropped a little before sundown,
allowing the mosquitoes to annoy us very much.
Monday, 21st April, North End of Newcastle Water. Some of the horses
having strayed some distance made it 10 o'clock a.m. before I could get a
start. Proceeded through six miles of forest and scrub to the water that
I found on the 14th instant; from thence I changed to 301 degrees 30
minutes for nine miles, and then to 275 degrees, and at two miles camped
at the ponds I had discovered on the 16th. Native smoke all around us.
The day has been very hot, and the flies a perfect nuisance. Wind,
south-east.
Tuesday, 22nd April, Howell Ponds. Preparing for a start to-morrow to the
north-west in search of water. Wind, south-east.
Wednesday, 23rd April, Howell Ponds. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge of the
party, I started with Thring and Frew at 8.5 a.m., on a course of 284
degrees. At 9.55 (seven miles) changed to 320 degrees. At 11.20 (four
miles and a half) crossed the open plain, changing to 40 degrees to avoid
the scrub. At one mile and a half changed to west. At one mile changed to
north-west. At 2.20 (five miles) changed to 45 degrees. At 3 o'clock (two
miles) changed to north. At 3.25 one mile and a half changed to
north-west. At 3.45 camped without water. I have skirted the border of
the forest land in the hope of finding water, but am disappointed. I have
not seen a drop since I started. The plains are covered with beautiful
grass, two or three feet high. There are a great many different kinds of
birds about, and native smoke all round. I have searched every place
where I thought there was the least chance of finding water, but without
success. The day has been exceedingly hot. With such hot weather as this
I dare not attempt to make the Victoria. The horses could not stand a
hundred and forty miles without water. Those I have had with me to-day
seem to have suffered enough, and would not stand another two days
without. I must therefore return to the camp to-morrow. Wind, calm.
Thursday, 24th April, Sturt Plains. Returned to the camp and found all
right. The day has been excessively hot. We have seen nothing new during
the journey--the same open plains, with forest between.
Friday, 25th April, Howell Ponds. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge of the
party, started at 8.20 a.m., with Thring and Frew and fresh horses, on a
northerly course, in hopes of better success in that direction: course
360 degrees for twenty-two miles; grassy plains, covered in many places
with stunted gums, and a new tree with a small green leaf. After that, we
entered again a thick forest, and scrub almost impassable. At
twenty-eight miles, seeing no prospect of getting through it, I returned
two miles to a small open space, where I could tether the horses. I have
not seen a drop of water this day's journey. The forest is so very thick,
and so many twistings and turnings are required to pass through it, that,
although I travelled thirty miles, I don't believe I made more than
fifteen miles in a straight line. The day again exceedingly hot, with a
few clouds. A few birds were seen during this day's journey, but no
pigeons, which are the only sign we have now of being near water. Wind
variable.
Saturday, 26th April, Dense Forest. Returned to the camp. The horses felt
the heat and the want of water very much. In the forest the heat was
almost suffocating. I hope it will rain soon and cool the ground and
replenish the ponds, which are drying up fast. There have been a few
clouds during the day, but after sundown they all cleared away. Wind,
south-east.
Sunday, 27th April, Howell Ponds. A few clouds have again made their
appearance, but still no rain. There has not fallen a drop of rain since
I left the Woodforde, which was on the 9th of March. Wind, south-east.
Latitude, 17 degrees 5 minutes 16 seconds.
Monday, 28th April, Howell Ponds. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge of the
party, started with Thring and King, on a course of 338 degrees, to try
and find an opening in the dense forest and scrub, as well as water. At
ten miles we crossed the open plain, with stunted gum-trees and long
grass. At this point we met with a small ironstone rise, about twenty
feet in height. On ascending I was again disappointed in finding before
me a dense forest and scrub. Proceeding in our course, it became thicker
than any which I had ever encountered before, and was almost impassable.
Still continued, and for a short distance in some places it became more
open. A little before sundown I camped on the edge of a stunted gum-tree
plain. There are a few slate-coloured cockatoos and other birds, which
lead me to hope that, in the morning, I may drop across some water. Wind
variable, with a few clouds during the day.
Tuesday, 29th April, Sturt Plains. Started on an easterly course,
following the flight of the birds; but at five miles crossed the open gum
plain, and again encountered the thick forest. Examined every place I
could see or think of where water was likely to be found, but was again
disappointed--not a drop was to be seen. Changed my course, so as to keep
on the plain; at four miles again crossed, and again met the dense
forest, but still no water. Changed to south-east, and at ten miles found
ourselves on a large stunted-gum plain. Changed to a little east of
south, and arrived at the camp without seeing a drop of water. Wind
variable, with heavy clouds from the east.
Wednesday, 30th April, Howell Ponds. I feel so unwell to-day that I am
unable to go out, besides I shall require my compass case and other
things mended; they got torn to pieces in the last journey by the forest
and the scrub. Yesterday's clouds are all gone, and have left us no rain.
Another hot day. Wind, east.
Thursday, 1st May, Howell Ponds. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge of the
party, started with King and Thring to the water hole that I discovered
on the 15th ultimo; arrived in the afternoon and camped. This water hole
I have named Frew's Water Hole, in token of my approbation of his care
of, and attention to, the horses. This waterhole is about twenty feet
below the plain, surrounded by a conglomerate ironstone rock. Since my
last visit it is only reduced two inches, and is still a large body of
clear water from the drainage of the adjacent country; it will last much
longer than I anticipated. I shall use my best endeavours to-morrow to
find an opening in the thick scrub from north to north-west. The course
of the forest seems to run a little west of north, and I am afraid the
open plains are surrounded by it; however, I shall try to get through it
if I possibly can. Wind, south-east. Day excessively hot.
Friday, 2nd May, Frew's Water Hole. Started at half-past seven o'clock
a.m. Course, 335 degrees. At ten miles, a dense forest and scrub. Changed
to 10 degrees east of north. At half a mile struck a water-shed, and
followed it north for two miles. Found a little rainwater in it, and at
two miles further arrived at its source. At three miles further on the
same course changed to 30 degrees east of north. At three miles and a
half again changed to 320 degrees, and at about a mile and a half struck
some fine ponds of water. At two miles further, arrived at what seemed to
be the last water, a small shallow pond. Examined around the plain to try
and find others, but without success. A little before sundown, returned
to the last water and camped. The first part of the day's journey was
over a stunted-gum plain, covered with grass. At ten miles we again met
with thick forest and scrub. I then changed my course to get out of it,
and struck the small water-shed running to the east of south. Following
it generally for two miles on a northerly course, we met with a little
rain water. Continued the same course through a thick forest and scrub
for three miles and a half to get through it if possible. At this point
it becomes denser than ever. Sent Thring to climb to the top of a tree,
from which he saw apparently a change in one of the low scrubby rises,
which appeared to be not so thickly covered with scrub as the others. I
directed my course to it, 30 degrees east of north, to examine it. I
observe that there is some sandstone in the low scrubby rises, which
leads me to hope that I may not be far from a change of country. On this
last course we travelled three miles, through a dense thicket of
hedge-tree, when I observed some large gum-trees bearing 320 degrees, and
decided to examine them before leaving the rise. As I approached nearer
to it I again sent Thring to climb a tree to see if there was any change.
He could see nothing but the same description of forest and scrub. The
change that he saw from the other tree was the shade of the sun on the
lower mulga bushes, which caused him to suppose that it was more open
country. Not seeing any opening in that direction, I changed to the
gum-trees. At a mile and a half was delighted at the sight of a chain of
fine water holes; their course north-west to south-east, the flow
apparently to south-east. I followed one pond, which was about half a
mile long and appeared to be deep. A number of smaller ones succeeded.
They then ceased, and I crossed a small plain, which shows signs of being
at times covered with water. Observing some green and white barked
gum-trees on the west side of it, I went to them, and found a small
watercourse with small pools of water, which flowed into the plain coming
from the north-west. Following it a little further, we met with some more
water. A short distance above this it ceased in the dense forest which
seems to surround these ponds. I shall endeavour to force my way through
it to-morrow to the west of north. Wind, south-east, with a few clouds in
the same direction. These ponds I name King's Ponds, in token of my
approbation of his care of, and attention to, the horses, and his
readiness and care in executing all my orders. Wind, south-east, with a
few clouds in the same direction.
Saturday, 3rd May, King's Chain of Ponds. Started at twenty minutes past
seven a.m., on a course of 350 degrees. At twenty-four miles changed to
45 degrees; at three miles and a half changed to north; at two miles and
a half camped. At two miles from our last night's camp found an easy
passage through the forest; the rest of the twenty-four miles was over a
well-grassed country, well wooded with gum and some new trees that I had
found last year, and occasionally a little scrub, in some places thick
for a short distance. On my first course, before changing, I was crossing
low ironstone undulations, which caused me to think I was running along
the side of one of the scrubby rises. I therefore changed to 45 degrees
east of north to make the plain--if there is any--the scrub being so
thick that I cannot see more than fifty yards before me. At three miles
and a half I found that I was travelling over the same description of
small rises and getting into much thicker scrub. I again changed to
north, to see if that would lead me into a plain. At two miles and a half
it was still the same, and apparently a thick forest and scrub before us.
I camped a little before sundown at a small open place to tether the
horses. I have not seen a drop of water during the whole journey, nor any
place likely to retain it, with the exception of a small flat about six
miles from the last camp. The day very hot. Wind, south-east, with a few
clouds.
Sunday, 4th May, Dense Forest. Returned to King's Ponds. This country
seems but little frequented by the natives, as we have seen no recent
tracks of them. There are a number of cockatoos and other birds about. We
have seen no other game, except one wallaby and one kangaroo. There are
plenty of old emu tracks about the ponds. Wind, variable. Cloudy.
Monday, 5th May, King's Ponds. Returned to Frew's Water Hole and camped.
Before sundown the sky became overcast with clouds. Wind variable.
Tuesday, 6th May, Frew's Water Hole. Towards morning we had a few drops
of rain. Returned to the camp and found all well. Yesterday they were
visited by a few natives who seemed to be very friendly; they called
water ninloo: they were armed with spears, about ten feet long, having a
flat sharp flint point about six inches long, with a bamboo attached to
the other end. They pointed to the west as the place where they got the
bamboo and water also, but they seemed to know nothing of the country
north of this; they were tall, well-made, elderly men. After talking for
some time they went away very quietly. To-day they have set fire to the
grass round about us, and the wind being strong from the south-east it
travelled with great rapidity. In coming into the camp, about three miles
back, I and the two that were with me narrowly escaped being surrounded
by it; it was as much as our horses could do to get past it, as it came
rolling and roaring along in one immense sheet of flame and smoke,
destroying everything before it.
Wednesday, 7th May, Howell Ponds. Resting. The natives have not again
visited us, but their smoke is seen all around. I shall start to-morrow
on a course west of north, to try and make the Victoria by that route. I
shall take some of the waterbags with me to see how they answer. Wind,
south-east. Clouds all gone.
Thursday, 8th May, Howell Ponds. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge of the
party, started with Thring and McGorrerey, also with King and Nash, who
are to bring back the horses which carry the waterbags, whilst I with
Thring and McGorrerey proceed on a west course. Started at half-past
eight a.m., keeping the former tracks made on my previous journey to the
westward, to where we met with the thick forest. About a mile beyond,
struck a native track, followed it, running nearly north-west, until
nearly three o'clock p.m., when we came upon a small water hole or
opening in the middle of a small plain, which seems to have been dug by
the natives, and is now full of rain water. This is apparently the water
that the natives pointed to, for their tracks are coming into it from
every direction. This opening I have named Nash Spring, in token of my
approbation. I am very much disappointed with the water-bags; in coming
this distance of twenty-one miles they have leaked out nearly half. Wind,
south east.
Friday, 9th May, Nash Spring. Sent King and Nash with the horses that
carried the water-bags back to the depot, while I and the other two, at
twenty minutes to eight o'clock a.m. proceeded on a bearing of 290
degrees, following one of the native tracks running in that direction. At
about a mile they became invisible; for that distance I observed that a
line of trees was marked down each side of the track by cutting a small
piece of bark from off the gum-trees with a tomahawk. This I had never
seen natives do before; the marks are very old. At eighteen miles and a
half struck another track (the trees cut in the same way) crossing our
course; followed it, bearing 10 degrees east of north, and at about two
miles came on a native well with moisture in it. Followed the valley on
the same course, but seeing no more appearance of water, I again changed
to my original course, and, at a quarter to four o'clock, finding that I
was again entering the dense forest and scrub, I camped at a good place
for feed for the horses, but no water. The whole of the day's journey has
been through a wooded country, in some places very thick, but in most
open; it is composed of gums, hedge-trees, and some new trees--the gums
predominating; there were also a few patches of lancewood scrub. For the
first eighteen miles the soil was light and sandy, with spinifex and a
little grass mixed. At the end of eighteen miles I again got into the
grass country, with occasionally a little spinifex. Wind, south-east.
Cold during the night and morning.
Saturday, 10th May, The Forest. Started at five minutes to seven o'clock
a.m. (same course, 290 degrees). Almost immediately encountered a dense
forest of tall mulga, with an immense quantity of dead wood lying on the
ground. It was with the greatest difficulty that the horses could be made
to move through it. At a mile it became a little more open, which
continued for six miles. At seven miles I thought, from the appearance of
the country, that it was dipping towards the north-north-west; I
therefore changed my course to north-west, and in less than a mile again
entered a dense forest of tall mulga, thicker than I had yet been into.
Continued pushing, tearing, and winding into it for three miles. The
further I went the denser it became. I saw that it was hopeless to
continue any further. We were travelling full speed, and making little
more than a mile an hour throughout the ten miles gone over to-day. The
country is a red light soil and covered with abundance of grass, but
completely dried up. No rain seems to have fallen here for a length of
time. We have not seen a bird, nor heard the chirrup of any to disturb
the gloomy silence of the dark and dismal forest--thus plainly indicating
the absence of water in and about this country. I therefore retraced my
steps towards Nash Springs; passed our last night's camp, and continued
on till sundown, one of the horses being completely knocked up. Camped
without water. Wind, south-east.
Sunday, 11th May, The Forest. This morning the horse that was so bad last
night was found dead, which puts us in a very awkward position--without a
pack-horse. We had to leave behind the pack-saddle, bags, and all other
things we could not carry with us on our riding-horses. Proceeded to Nash
Spring, which we reached after two o'clock p.m., with another of the
horses completely knocked up. It was with difficulty that he reached it.
I suppose the days being so extremely hot, and the feed so dry that there
is little nourishment in it, is the cause of this, as they were horses
that had been out with me on my last year's journey, and had suffered
from want of water a longer time than on this occasion. I am nearly in a
fix with a long journey before me, the horses unable to do more than two
nights without water, and the water-bags losing half their contents in
one day's journey. To make the Victoria through the country I have just
passed into would be impossible. I must now endeavour to find a country
to the northward and make the Roper. I am very vexed about the water-bags
turning out so badly, as I was placing great dependence on them for
carrying me through. I must try and push through the best way possible.
Wind, south-east.