passed two or three holes containing fish about eight inches long, and
enclosed by small brush fences, apparently for the purpose of catching
fish. They also saw a lot of shields, spears, waddies, etc., which the
natives had deposited under a bush. As to the aborigines themselves,
although it was evident there were plenty of them about, they never
allowed themselves to be seen. There was an abundance of timber which Mr.
Stuart says would be well suited for electric-telegraph poles.
Mr. Stuart's journal continues as follows:
Tuesday, 5th March, The Finke. Started at 8.5 a.m., bearing 345 degrees,
for the Hugh, with Thring and Lawrence. On arriving there found the water
nearly all gone, only a little in a well dug by the natives; cleared it
out, but it took us until 12 p.m. to water the four horses. At three
miles further, we passed round a high conspicuous table hill, having a
slanting and shelving front to the south; this I have named Mount Santo,
after Philip Santo, Esquire, M.P. The country passed over to-day has been
sand hills, with spinifex, grassy plains, with mulga and other shrubs,
and occasionally low table-topped hills, composed of sand, lime, and
ironstone, also the hard whitish flinty rock; kangaroo plentiful, but
very wild. Wind south-east. The day has been very hot; horses very tired.
Wednesday, 6th March, The Hugh. Started at 8.45 a.m. on a bearing of 209
degrees. At nine miles, finding the water gone that I had seen on my last
return, I dug down to the clay, and obtained a little, but not enough for
us. Followed the creek up into the gorge, and found it very dry. Our
former tracks are still visible in the bed of the creek. No rain seems to
have fallen here since last March. I had almost given up all hopes of
finding any water, when, at seven miles, we met with a few rushes, which
revived our sinking hopes; and, at eight miles, our eyes and ears were
delighted with the sight and sound of numerous diamond birds, a sure sign
of the proximity of water. At the mouth of a side creek coming from the
James range, on the eastern side of the Hugh, found an excellent water
hole, apparently both deep and permanent. We saw a native and his lubra
at the upper end at a brush fence in the water; they appeared to be
fishing, and did not see us until I called to them. The female was the
first who left the water; she ran to the bank, took up her child, and
made for a tree, up which she climbed, pushing her young one up before
her. She was a tall, well-made woman. The man (an old fellow), tall,
stout, and robust, although startled at our appearance, took it leisurely
in getting out of the water, ascended the bank, and had a look at us; he
then addressed us in his own language, and seemed to work himself up into
a great passion, stopping every now and then and spitting fiercely at us
like an old tiger. He also ascended the tree, and then gave us a second
edition of it. We leisurely watered our horses, and he was very much
surprised to see Thring dismount and lead the pack-horse down to the
water, so much so that he never said another word, but remained staring
at us until we departed, when he commenced again. This water being
sufficient for my purpose, I will go no further up the creek, but return
to the last night's camp. Wind, south-east.
Thursday, 7th March, The Hugh. As my horses are very tired, and the
distance between my main camp on the Finke and the water we discovered
yesterday being upwards of fifty miles, I will remain here to-day, dig
down to the clay, and try if I can obtain enough water for all the party;
for, owing to the extreme heat, and the dryness of the feed, many of our
weak horses are unable to go a night without water. By 8 p.m. we dug a
trench ten feet long, two feet and a half deep, and two feet and a half
broad; it is about twelve feet below the level of the creek. We have had
a very hard day's work. Wind, south-east. Day very hot.
Friday, 8th March, The Hugh. This morning very cold; wind, still
south-east. The trench is quite full; our four horses made very little
impression on it. I shall send up and enlarge the trench, so that we may
be enabled to water the whole lot. At 6.40 a.m. started back for the
camp. At 1.45 p.m. halted to give the horses a little rest. At 2.30 p.m.
changed to 184 degrees, and at four miles reached the table hills, but
there was no creek, only a number of clay-pans, all quite dry, with
stunted gum-trees growing round them. Changed my bearing to Mount Santo,
passing a number of clay-pans of the same description; from thence
proceeded to the camp; arrived there at sundown, and found all right.
Plenty of water; the horses make little impression on it. Wind,
south-east.
Saturday, 9th March, The Finke. I shall give Thring a rest to-day, and
will send him with two others, and a part of the horses, to-morrow to the
Hugh, to make a place large enough to water all. From about 2 a.m. until
after sunrise the morning has been very cold. Wind, south-east.
Sunday, 10th March, The Finke. At 7 a.m. despatched Thring, Thompson, and
Sullivan, with eleven pack and three riding-horses, to the Hugh to dig a
tank. Wind, still south-east; clouds east.
Monday, 11th March, The Finke. Clouds all gone; wind still south-east. I
will remain here to-day with the rest of the party, to give the others
time to have all ready for us when we arrive. One of the horses missing;
found him in the afternoon. Wind variable.
Tuesday, 12th March, The Finke. Started at 8.30 a.m. for the Hugh, course
345 degrees, following our former tracks. The day has been exceedingly
hot; wind from east and south-east, with heavy clouds in the same
direction. About 3 p.m. missed the party that was behind; they were last
seen about one mile and a half back. Thinking that the packs had gone
wrong, and that they were remaining behind to repair them, I waited an
hour, but finding they did not come up, I sent Ewart back to the place
where they were last seen to find out what was wrong; in an hour he
returned, and informed me that their tracks were going away to the
eastward. As the James range was in sight, and two of the party had been
there before, I concluded that they must have lost my tracks and were
pushing on for the water. This loss of two hours would make it late
before we arrived there, so we hurried on; but within four miles it
became so dark, from the sky being overcast with heavy clouds, and the
mulga bushes being so thick, that we were in great danger of losing some
of our pack-horses, for we could not see them more than ten yards off. I
therefore camped until daylight, having to tie the horses during the
night. Wind variable.
Wednesday, 13th March, Between the Finke and the Hugh. Started at
daybreak; and in a little more than an hour arrived at the Hugh; found
that Thring had gone up the creek to the other water, not finding enough
here for the horses he had with him. We could only get sufficient for ten
of ours. As the fire was still alight, I was led to believe that the
other party had arrived here last night, having had two hours more
sunlight than we, and that they, seeing Thring's note to me, which he had
fastened on a tree, and also the small quantity of water, had watered
their horses last night, and gone on this morning, leaving the water that
had accumulated during the night for us and our horses; we cleared out
the hole in order to obtain sufficient for our other five. At about 10
a.m. had breakfast; before we finished, the other party came in sight;
they had lost the tracks, and could not find them again. They made the
creek about one mile to the eastward. Unsaddled and gave their horses a
rest, and as much water as we could get for the weak ones; those of mine
which have had none will have to go without. By 1 p.m. obtained a drink
for seven of them. Pushed on to the other water, fifteen miles up the
creek; arrived there a little before sundown. The day, although cloudy,
has been very hot. Found Thring and his party all right. They had seen no
more of our spitting friend. Wind variable, with heavy clouds from east
and south-east, but still no rain.
Thursday, 14th March, The Hugh, James Range. As the done-up horses will
not be able to travel to-day, I have sent Thring and Wall up the creek to
look for other water. Sky still overcast. No rain. Thring and Wall
returned in the afternoon, having found water a little below the surface,
about nine miles up; a very light shower has fallen. Wind all round the
compass.
Friday, 15th March, The Hugh, James Range. A few drops of rain have
fallen during the night, but this morning it seems to be breaking up
again, which is a great disappointment. Started at 8 a.m., course 10
degrees west of north; passed through the gorge in James range, found all
the water gone that I had seen on my journey down; followed up the creek
to the native wells that Thring found yesterday. This water is situated
about one mile and a half from where the creek enters the gorge in James
range, and under a concrete bank on the north side. The natives seem to
have quitted this water on hearing us coming, for they have left behind
them a large, long, and unfinished spear, two smaller ones, and some
waddies, one of which was quite wet, as if the owner had been in the act
of clearing out one of the wells when he heard or saw us coming: he also
left a shield cut out of solid wood, which I think was, from its
lightness, cork-wood. I also observed on one of the gum-trees, marks
similar to those which I saw on the Finke, broad arrows and a wavy line
round the tree. Still cloudy, but much broken. No rain. Wind, south-east.
Saturday, 16th March, The Hugh, James Range. Rain all gone. Proceeded up
the creek, course 30 degrees, to examine the east bend before it enters
the Waterhouse range; in about six miles arrived and followed it upwards,
pushing on through the gorge to the large water I had previously seen on
the north side of the range; found it gone, but water in some native
wells in its bed. Proceeded on to the second bend of the creek from
Waterhouse range, to a water which I consider to be a spring (it is under
conglomerate rock), and am glad to see that there is still a large hole
of beautiful water, with bulrushes growing round about it. Camped. This
water I have named Owen Springs, after William Owen, Esquire, M.P. Wind
variable, from south-east to north-east. Cloudy.
Sunday, 17th March, Owen Springs, The Hugh. During the night we had a few
light showers, which will be of great advantage to us, causing the green
feed to spring up. The morning still cloudy; wind from the east, with a
few drops of rain. Wind still variable--all round the compass.
Monday, 18th March, Owen Springs, The Hugh. Very heavy clouds this
morning; and it seemed as if it was setting in for a wet day, but it
cleared off, and only a little rain fell. Wind still all round the
compass.
Tuesday, 19th March, Owen Springs, The Hugh. Saddled and started for
Brinkley Bluff, bearing 349 degrees. After entering the McDonnell range
the water is permanent. It has been here for twelve months; no rain has
fallen during that time, for my former tracks, both up and down, are as
distinct as if they had been made a month ago. At 3.30 p.m. camped at the
waterhole about a mile north-west of Brinkley Bluff; it is situated under
a rocky cliff. There are some seams of beautiful grey granite crossing
the creek, and abundance of marble of all colours, also a little iron and
limestone. We found some specimens of the palm tree, but there is neither
seed nor blossom at this season of the year. Lawrence got one of the
leaves, ate the lower end of it, and found it sweet--resembling
sugar-cane; he ate a few inches of it, and in about two hours became very
sick, and vomited a good deal during the evening. Wind variable; but
mostly south-east, with heavy thunder clouds.
Wednesday, 20th March, Brinkley Bluff, McDonnell Range. About 1 p.m. we
were delighted with the sight and feeling of heavy rain. At about 4 the
creek came down, and by sunrise it was running at the rate of five miles
an hour--a new and delightful sight to behold. At about 9 the clouds were
breaking and the rain lighter. We were all truly thankful for this great
boon. It is too wet to move to-day; the horses are bogging up to their
knees. After sundown we had a heavy thunder storm, accompanied by vivid
lightning, and heavy rain from south-east and east. Wind from
same direction.
Thursday, 21st March, Brinkley Bluff, McDonnell Range. Rain has continued
at intervals during the night; a great deal has fallen. A horse having
gone into the creek to drink during the night, one of his hobbles became
undone, and got fastened to his hind shoe. He was found this morning up
to his body in water, and unable to move. Having relieved him, it was
with difficulty he could get out. He is in a tremble all over, and can
scarcely walk. The ground is so soft, even on the hills, that we cannot
walk without sinking above the ankle. I should gain nothing by starting
to-day. It would injure the horses more than a week's travelling.
Friday, 22nd March, Brinkley Bluff, McDonnell Range. About 1 a.m. the
rain came down in torrents, and continued until nearly sunrise, from
south-east. Wind from same quarter. It is impossible to move to-day. The
creek is higher than it has been before, and running with great rapidity.
All the horses were found right this morning but the one which got into
the creek yesterday. After searching all the hills and the creeks round
about, he was found in a small gully by himself.
Saturday, 23rd March, Brinkley Bluff, McDonnell Range. Heavy shower of
rain about 4 a.m. this morning. After sunrise it all cleared away and
became fine. Started at 8.20 to cross the northern portion of the range
by following the creek up. We have had a very hard and difficult journey
of it. It is now 4 p.m., and we have arrived at Hamilton Springs. The
ground was so soft, even at the top of the ranges, that we had the
greatest difficulty in getting the horses through. We did so, however,
with the loss of a great number of shoes, and many of the horses were
very lame. Wind still south-east.
Sunday 24th March, Hamilton Springs. I am compelled to have some of the
horses shod to-day, and also to have a number of saddle-bags mended,
which were torn by the scrub yesterday. This afternoon there is a great
deal of thunder and lightning in the north and north-east.
Monday, 25th March, Hamilton Springs. Part of the horses missing this
morning in consequence of the green feed; did not get a start until 10.20
a.m.; bearing 43 degrees. The country became so boggy after seven miles
that we were unable to proceed further than eleven miles. There being no
surface water, although the ground was so soft that the horses kept
bogging up to their bodies, we were forced to retreat five miles to
obtain some for them. Wind south-east, the stormy weather apparently
breaking up. Camped at 5 p.m. Latitude, 23 degrees 28 minutes 51 seconds.
Tuesday, 26th March, Scrub North-east of Hamilton Springs. Started at 9
a.m. on a south-south-east course to round the boggy country. At about
six miles we were enabled to cross the lower part, and go in the
direction of a low range. Camped on the north-east side of it. The last
four miles were over fair travelling-country of a red soil, with mulga
and other bushes, in some places rather thick, abounding in green grass.
We also passed many bushes of the honey mulga, but the season is passed,
and it is all dried up. Wind, east. Latitude by Pollux, 23 degrees 24
minutes 51 seconds; by Jupiter, 23 degrees 24 minutes 52 seconds.
Wednesday, 27th March, Low Granite Range in Scrub. More than half of the
horses are missing this morning; at noon we have managed to get all but
ten; they are scattered all over the place; at 5 p.m. they cannot be
found, and the water is nearly all gone, and the country much dried
towards Strangway range. I have sent the horses four miles back to a
large clay-pan that we saw yesterday, to remain there to-night and in the
morning to return. Two of the party to separate from there, and to go in
search of the missing horses, which I suppose have gone back to the
Hamilton Springs; it is very vexing, some of our best are amongst them.
Wind, east.
Thursday, 28th March, Low Granite Range in Scrub. At 11 a.m. the horses
were brought back from the clay-pan. Two of the missing ones were found
about a mile after they started, making towards where they had camped
last night. I think that the other eight must be also in that direction;
we find that all the tracks have gone that way; I shall therefore move
down to-day to the south end of the swampy country, which I know they
cannot cross, and endeavour, if possible, to find them to-night. By 1
p.m. arrived at the end of the swamp; camped, and despatched Thring in
one direction and Sullivan in another to try and cut their tracks; at a
little before sunset Sullivan returned with three of the missing ones.
Five are still wanting. Wind, south-east.
Friday, 29th March, South End of Swamp in Scrub. At sunrise sent Thring
and Sullivan again to look for the missing horses; they arrived at 5 p.m.
with three of them. If we do not find the other two to-morrow, I shall
push on without them, and endeavour to pick them up on our return.
Saturday, 30th March, South End of Swamp in Scrub. Again sent Thring and
Sullivan in search of the two remaining horses; at about 11 a.m. they
returned with them. I shall now move up to our camp of 25th instant.
Camped at some rain water a little south of our former place, where there
is plenty of feed for the horses. Wind, south-east; clouds from
north-west.
Sunday, 31st March, Rain Water in Scrub. All day the sky has been
overcast with clouds from the north-west. Wind from south-east.
Monday, 1st April, Same Place. Started at 7.30 a.m.; course, 330 degrees.
At 1 p.m. we came upon a very pretty flat of beautiful grass, with water
in the middle of it; and, as the afternoon has every appearance of rain,
I have camped--to go on in the rain will only spoil our provisions. We
had scarcely got the packs off when it came on heavily, and lasted about
an hour: it then ceased until sundown, when it came on again, and
continued till 10.30 p.m.
Tuesday, 2nd April, Green Flat in Scrub. Started at 8.20 a.m. on same
course, and camped at 1.30 p.m. under a prominent rocky hill, which I
ascended and have named Mount Harris, after Peter G. Harris, Esquire, of
Adelaide. I obtained bearings of the different points all round. The last
seven miles was sandy soil, with spinifex and scrub, which was mostly
young cork-tree, and the broad-leafed mallee.
Wednesday, 3rd April, Mount Harris. We have put up a small cone of stones
on the top of this mount. Started at 8 a.m. for Anna's Reservoir. Arrived
at the creek about two miles south-south-east of it, and, finding it
running, camped amongst excellent feed. By keeping to west of my former
track I have found the country much opener; but nearly all day the
journey has been through spinifex. Wind from west.
Thursday, 4th April, The Wicksteed, Reynolds Range. Started at 7.40 a.m.
to cross the range, bearing to Mount Freeling 312 degrees. At 1.30 p.m.
crossed the range, and arrived at the creek, camping at the same place as
I did on my previous journey, and finding water and feed abundant. I have
named this creek the Woodforde, after Dr. Woodforde, of Adelaide. After
crossing the range, we found the bean-tree in blossom; it was
magnificent. I have obtained a specimen of it; also some beans, a number
of which were of a cream colour; we have roasted a few of them, and find
that they make very good coffee. Wind, south-east.
Friday, 5th April, The Woodforde, Reynolds Range. Started at 7.30 a.m.
Camped at 4.30 p.m. on the Hanson, which is now a running stream. About
five miles back we passed a freshly-built native worley. I observed a
peculiarity in it which I never noticed in any before--namely, that it
was constructed with greater care than usual. It was thatched with grass
down to the ground. Inside the worley there was a quantity of grass laid
regularly for a bed, on which some one had been lying. Round about the
front was collected a large quantity of firewood, as much as would have
done for us for a night. Latitude, 22 degrees 5 minutes 30 seconds,
bearing to Central Mount Stuart, 25 degrees. Wind, south-south-west.
Saturday, 6th April, The Hanson. Started at 8 a.m., on a course of 46
degrees 30 minutes, to the springs in the Hanson; this course led me
through about four miles of very thick mulga. After crossing the central
line we arrived on the creek and camped, below the springs, at 1.30 p.m.
Bearing to Central Mount Stuart, 251 degrees 20 minutes. Wind variable.
Sunday, 7th April, The Hanson, East-north-east of Centre. Day hot. Wind
variable, with a few clouds.
Monday, 8th April, The Hanson, East-north-east of Centre. Five of the
horses missing this morning. Started at 9.45, course 45 degrees; camped
on the Stirling at 3.50 p.m. Through all the day's journey the country
abounded in grass and water. Wind from south.
Tuesday, 9th April, The Stirling, Forster Range. Started at 7.30 a.m., to
cross Forster range on the same course. At 10.50 a.m. camped on north
side of it, on a large gum creek with water. I have named this the
Taylor, after John Taylor, Esquire, of the firm of Messrs. Elder,
Stirling, & Co., of Adelaide. This is a most beautiful place, a plain
four miles broad between two granite ranges, completely covered with
grass, and a gum creek winding through the centre. I made a short journey
to-day in consequence of having some of the horses lame, and some weak
through the effects of the green grass, and to-morrow's journey will be a
long one. Had I gone on to-day, they would in all probability be without
water, and would require to be tied up during the night. I shall now be
able to get through in one day, and keep them in good condition for the
unexplored country, which I expect to commence next Monday.
Wednesday, 10th April, The Taylor. Started at 7.25 a.m. on a course of 11
degrees 30 minutes for Mount Morphett; at 12.30 ascended the summit. On
the north side we had some difficulty in getting the horses down;
however, we managed without accident. Ran a creek down and found some
water; gave the horses a drink; still followed it until it was lost in a
grassy plain. Proceeded on to the next hills, passed through a gap, and
made for a creek on the north side, in which we found water, and camped
at 4 p.m.
Thursday, 11th April, North Side Mount Morphett, Crawford Range. Started
at 7.45 a.m. on a course of 10 degrees. The first four miles was over a
beautiful grassy plain, with mulga wood, not very thick; it then became
more sandy, and covered with gum, cork-trees, and other scrubs, which
continued within a mile of where we camped, in a small, but beautiful
grassed plain; no water. Latitude 20 degrees 38 minutes 33 seconds. Wind,
south-east.
Friday, 12th April, Grassy Plain. Started at 6.15 a.m., same course. At 1
p.m. arrived at the Bonney; it is now running--green feed abundant. As
some of the horses are still very lame, I will rest them to-morrow and
Sunday, and start into the unexplored country on Monday morning. Wind
from south-east; a few clouds from north-east.
Saturday, 13th April, The Bonney. Sent Thring down the creek to see what
its course is, and if the country gets more open; the men mending
saddle-bags, cleaning and repairing saddles, shoeing horses, etc. While I
and Woodforde were endeavouring to get a shot at some ducks on the long
water holes, a fish, which he describes as being about two feet long,
with dark spots on either side, came to the surface; he fired at it, but
was unsuccessful in killing it. A little before sundown Thring returned;
he gave a very bad account of the creek; it was a dry deep channel. Wind,
variable; cloudy.
Sunday, 14th April, The Bonney. Wind from every quarter, with clouds; a
few drops of rain fell about the middle of the day; after sundown much
lightning in the south-west.