all gone this morning. It would take us nine hours to water the horses
here, so slowly does it come in; I must therefore go back to our last
camp. I shall follow the creek round, for there might be a chance of
getting some nearer. Saddled, and proceeded up the creek, and at four
miles found a little under the limestone rocks coming from a small side
creek; gave the horses a drink turning back, and made for the Finke on a
course of 160 degrees. Crossing a few stony hills and small plains, at
ten miles, we ascended a broken table range, which I have named Warwick
Range; it is composed of hard grey limestone and ironstone. We then
proceeded through a well-grassed country, with mulga bushes, and at
twenty miles camped under a redstone hill, not being able to get any
further. No water.
Saturday, 4th August, Small Hill between the Hugh and the Finke. The
horses strayed a long way in the night, so that I did not get them till
after 11 o'clock this morning, and could not start until noon. Passed
over a country of much the same description as yesterday, crossing three
stony hills running nearly east and west, and at nine miles camped,
without water, in a fine grassy country, which, as the grass is green,
will be quite a treat for the horses. About six miles north of Chambers
Pillar. Wind, south-east.
Sunday, 5th August, North of Chambers Pillar. At sunrise heavy clouds
came up from the south-east, bringing with them a very thick fog, through
which I had great difficulty in steering my course; it cleared off about
10 o'clock. I expected rain, but none has fallen; it is now quite clear
again. Arrived at the Finke at 12 o'clock, and was very much surprised to
find so little water. I had no idea it would have gone away so soon. The
bed is very broad and sandy, which is the cause of the rapid
disappearance of the large quantity that I saw when I crossed before.
This is a great disappointment, as it was my intention to run it down, in
the hope that it would take me into South Australia. I shall go one day's
journey down, and see what it is; if I can find no more water I must
return to this, to rest my horses, and push for the Stevenson. I cannot
remain here, for this water will only last a short time. My provisions
will barely carry me down, and there is not the least appearance of rain.
I am afraid my retreat is cut off. Wind, south-east. Clouds.
Monday, 6th August, The Finke. Thick fog again this morning. From the
heavy clouds that have passed yesterday to the south of us, I think a
shower of rain may have fallen there; I ought not to allow the chance of
it to escape, as it is likely to be my only one until the equinox, and I
have not provisions sufficient to remain until that time, so I must push
the horses as far as they will go, and then we must walk the rest, which
is a very black prospect, considering the weak state we all are in.
Proceeded to the south-east, having camped on my former course at two
clay-pans, where I think there is a chance of water, if a shower has
fallen there. Started on our former course and arrived at the clay-pans
without seeing a drop of water; neither is there any in them. Camped; the
horses being very tired, from coming through so many sand hills.
Tuesday, 7th August, Clay-pans in Sand Hills. A light dew fell last night
and this morning, which I am very glad of; it will be a good thing for
the horses. Kekwick was unwell last night, but I cannot stop on his
account. He must endure it the best way he can. If I find water at where
I suppose the Finke joins the gum creek that runs a little north of Mount
Humphries, I will remain there a day to give him rest. He is completely
done up. I hope he will not get worse. I must push back as quickly as
possible, and get him into the settled districts. At noon we made the
Finke. Still the same white, sandy bed; but here it is about a quarter of
a mile broad, and the east bank is composed of white sandstone, with a
course of light slate on the top of it, then courses of limestone and
other rocks, and, on the top of all, red sand hills. The gum-trees are
not so large as they are further north. On first striking the creek we
could find no water, but, by following it down for a short distance, we
discovered a little, which will do for us. It is more than I expected,
and I feel most thankful for it. Kekwick still very ill. Poor fellow, he
is suffering very much. I dare not show him much pity, or I should have
the other giving in altogether. I hope and trust he will soon get better
again, and that to-morrow's rest may do him good. He has been a most
valuable man to me. I place entire confidence in him. A better one I
could not have got. I wish the other had been like him, and then neither
he nor I should have suffered so much from hunger. Wind, south-east.
Wednesday, 8th August, The Finke. Resting Kekwick and shoeing horses.
This water was going away very rapidly, so I rode down the creek for ten
miles to see if there were any more, that I may risk following it down.
After joining the West Creek it spreads itself over a broad valley,
bounded on the north by sand hills and on the south by stony hills.
Course, eastward. It is divided into numerous courses; very sandy, and
immense quantities of drift wood about it. Some very large gum-trees
piled high on the banks, and a great number of birds of every
description; but I could find no water. It is so broad, with so many
courses, that it would require half a dozen men to examine it well. If we
were to stay searching for water here, and be unsuccessful, and the
creeks on ahead were to be dried up, we should lose our horses and have
to walk, which Kekwick could not do. I do not consider it would be right
thus to risk his life. I shall therefore make for the Stevenson, where I
am almost certain to find water. Wind, east.
Thursday, 9th August, The Finke. Started early on our former tracks,
passing Mount Humphrey and Mount Beddome. Camped at our old place. I
should think from the appearance of the country that the Finke takes a
south-east course from where I left it yesterday. The hills run that way.
Wind, south-south-east.
Friday, 10th August, South of Mount Beddome. Proceeded on our former
course to the Stevenson, which we made a little before dark, and found
water, but I am quite surprised to see so little of it left. The fine
large holes are nearly dry. Wind, east.
Saturday, 11th August, The Stevenson. The horses having lost some shoes,
I am forced to remain here to-day to put others on. There is more water a
little further down the creek, at which I camped. No rain seems to have
fallen since I was here before. The sun has been very hot to-day. Wind,
east-south-east.
Sunday, 12th August, The Stevenson. I was too unwell to move yesterday,
but, feeling a little better this morning, I rode down the creek. For
three miles it takes a south-east course, then east-south-east through
table land, with rocky and precipitous hills on each side. I then went on
a south-east course for nine miles, through a splendidly-grassed country,
with numerous small creeks running into the Stevenson. During my ride I
found plenty of water, and splendid grass, up to the saddle-flaps, and
quite green. Ducks and numerous other birds abound here; the water is
quite alive with them. I regret that I have not provisions enough to
enable me to follow this creek round its different bends. It is a
splendid feeding country for cattle, and much resembles Chambers Creek.
Wind, south-east.
Monday, 13th August, The Stevenson. Started on a course of 135 degrees to
see if the Stevenson comes from the south; continued on the table land,
from where I left it yesterday for sixteen miles from last night's camp,
when we suddenly dropped into the bed of a large broad sandy gum-creek,
coming from the west, which I find to be the Ross. There are many rushes
about it; it runs in three or four courses, in all of which water can be
obtained by scratching in the sand. There are plenty of birds. It is
evidently raining to the east of this. Camped. My course takes me across
the middle of a range, which I shall endeavour to cross to-morrow. There
are two small springs, but they are brackish. Wind, south.
Tuesday, 14th August, The Ross. Started on the same course, 135 degrees,
and again ascended the stony table land. Crossing thence, we met two
small myall-creeks running north-east with birds upon them. At seven
miles crossed another, and found a fine large deep water hole with ducks
on it. We again ascended the table land, which continued to the range,
and at sixteen miles gained the top, which is table land about a mile
broad; the view is extensive to the east-north-east and north. We
descended on a course of 175 degrees to search for water in the creek
below. We crossed a number of myall-creeks, coming from the range, and
running south-east; in many the water has just dried up. At six miles on
the same course we found water and camped, the horses being tired by
their rough journey. This water hole is not permanent although when full
it is deep and large, and will last a considerable time. The Stevenson
and Ross seem to take a north-east course. On a further examination of
this creek I found a large hole of water about two hundred yards long and
thirty broad, with birds upon it, and plants that grow round permanent
water. I also found shells. This creek I have named Anderson Creek, after
James Anderson, Esquire, of Port Lincoln, and the range Bagot Range,
after the Honourable the Commissioner of Crown Lands.
Wednesday, 15th August, Anderson Creek. Started towards the south-east
point of Bagot range, which I find to be five miles distant. The country
between is undulating and stony, with plenty of grass. To the east, about
thirty miles, is a high isolated hill, bearing 100 degrees. At six miles
and a half crossed a myall and gum creek, in which, about a mile to the
east, under a red bank, is a large water hole, seemingly permanent. At
ten miles crossed the Frew, whose bed is sandy, and has many courses, the
banks being covered with rushes. The rest of the day's journey was
through mallee scrub and sand hills, in which we camped without water;
the feed, however, is abundant, yet not so thick as when I crossed
before.* (* See ante, March 28, 29, and 30.) Wind, south.
Thursday, 16th August, Mulga Scrub and Sand Hills. Started at 7 o'clock
on a course of 170 degrees, and in four hours made the Neale, and camped,
as there was still plenty of water.
Friday, 17th August, The Neale. Proceeded on a south-east course, and
camped on a side branch of the Neale, with plenty of water in large
holes. Wind, east.
Saturday, 18th August, Side Branch of the Neale. Proceeded towards the
gap in Hanson range, and camped near one of the large water holes. It is
very cloudy.
Sunday, 19th August, Gap in the Hanson Range. Still cloudy, and looks
like rain, so we must push on to-day, in case the Peake River should come
down and stop us, which would not suit the state of my provisions, as we
have lost a quantity of flour by the scrub scoring the bags, and we have
not enough to take us to Chambers Creek. At eight miles camped
west-north-west of Freeling Springs, having given the horses a drink in
crossing the Neale.
Monday, 20th August, Sand Hills West-north-west of Freeling Springs. It
still threatens for rain. Proceeded to Kekwick Springs to see if the
horse we had left in the Peake had got out. We found his bones; he does
not seem to have made a struggle since we left him, as he is in the same
position. From the number of tracks, the natives must have visited him.
Proceeded to Freeling Springs and camped. There were a number of ducks
and two swans on the large water hole. We shot one of the latter, which
was a great treat to our half-starved party. Wind variable.
Tuesday, 21st August, Freeling Springs. Still cloudy, and we had a few
drops of rain during the night; also distant thunder and lightning.
Resting horses. Wind, north-east.
Wednesday, 22nd August, Freeling Springs. Proceeded through Denison
range, and camped at the Milne Springs. Wind, north-east. Still cloudy,
but no rain.
Thursday, 23rd August, Milne Springs. Went on and camped at Louden Spa.
Wind variable.
Friday, 24th August, Louden Spa. Camped at the William Springs. Wind,
north-west.
Saturday, 25th August, William Springs. Proceeded to the Strangway and
Beresford Springs, and camped at Paisley Ponds. Wind, north-east.
Sunday, 26th August, Paisley Ponds. During the night thunder and
lightning from the north-west, with a few drops of rain. Cloudy this
morning; had a few showers on our journey to Hamilton Springs. Found Mr.
Brodie camped there three miles south-east of Mount Hamilton. He received
and treated us with the greatest kindness.
Mr. Stuart and his party remained at Hamilton Springs until 1st
September, when they proceeded to Chambers Creek, where, having reached
the settled districts, his journal ends.
JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S FIFTH EXPEDITION. FROM NOVEMBER, 1860, TO
SEPTEMBER, 1861.
When Mr. Stuart reached Adelaide, in October, 1860, on his return from
his last expedition, bringing with him the intelligence that he had
penetrated to the northward almost as far as the eighteenth degree of
south latitude, and had only been forced to retreat by the hostility of
the natives, the South Australian Parliament voted a sum of 2500 pounds
for a larger, better-armed, and more perfectly organized party, of which
he was to be the leader. The ill-fated Victorian expedition, under Burke
and Wills, had already started from Melbourne, on the previous 20th of
August, amid all the excitement of a popular ovation, but a messenger was
instantly despatched by the Victorian Government to overtake them, in
order to give them what information the South Australian Government
allowed to be known. On the 29th of November Mr. Stuart was ready to
start once more, and left Moolooloo with seven men and thirty horses,
arriving at Mr. Glen's station on the 1st of December, and at Goolong
Springs on the 4th. He was delayed at the latter place for several days,
in consequence of the horses, and more especially the town horses, being
unmanageable and unequal to their work. The party reached Welcome Springs
on the 8th, and Finniss Springs on the 11th. The water at Finniss Springs
seemed to have an injurious influence on the town horses, but those that
had been with Mr. Stuart on his previous journeys were not so much
affected. The following evening they arrived at Chambers Creek, where
they remained until the end of the month.
During their stay at Chambers Creek they were occupied in killing and
drying bullocks, mending saddles, weighing rations, shoeing horses, and
generally preparing to start. Several of the horses, which had been
knocked up and left behind on the way, had to be brought up; others
became quite blind, one was lost, and one died. On the 31st of December
four fresh horses arrived, which had been kindly sent up by Mr. Finke the
moment he heard of the difficulty in which Mr. Stuart was placed. The
party was also further increased, both by horses and men, so that when it
left Chambers Creek, on the 1st of January, 1861, it numbered twelve men
and forty-nine horses. The following is the list of those who started:--
John McDouall Stuart, Leader of the Expedition.
William Kekwick, Second in Command.
F. Thring, Third Officer.
-- Ewart, Storekeeper.
-- Sullivan, Shoeing Smith.
-- Thompson, Saddler.
-- Lawrence.
-- Masters.
J. Woodforde.
-- Wall.
E.E. Bayliffe.
J. Thomas.
Shortly after starting, the horses that Mr. Finke sent up went off at a
gallop, taking with them one of the others; but, at about a mile, they
were headed by Ewart, Wall, and Lawrence, and brought back covered with
sweat. Not content with this gallop, in a short time afterwards they
bolted again. This last one seemed to content them, for they went very
quietly for the rest of the day; they had, however, lost a pick, which
could not be found. The party arrived at Mr. Ferguson's station, at
Hamilton Springs, that evening. Louden Spa was reached on the 8th of
January. The next day Mr. Stuart writes:
"Wednesday, 9th January, Louden Spa. I am obliged to leave two horses. I
thought that I should have been able to have got them down as far as Mr.
Levi's station. There are three others that I must leave behind; they are
now nearly useless to me, and cause more delay than I can afford. I shall
reduce my party to ten individuals, in order to lighten the horses that I
take with me. I shall take thirty weeks' provisions; the rest I shall
leave there (Mr. Levi's station). The two men who are to return are to
have a month's provisions to carry them down. They will be here two
weeks, and if the horses have not recovered by that time, they will
remain another week, when they will have one week's provisions to take
them to Chambers Creek, where they will get enough to carry them to the
mine."
Bayliffe and Thomas were the two men selected to return, and it may not
be without interest to follow them back to the settled districts. They
did not arrive at Melrose, Mount Remarkable, until the latter end of
March. Thomas was suffering severely from rheumatism, and had to be
conveyed in a cart for the last six miles of his journey from a place
where he and his companion had camped for the purpose of recruiting
themselves. They had been obliged to leave two of the horses at Mr.
Mather's station, and two more had died on the road. The men arrived with
one horse only, which they were using as a pack-horse.
But to return to the rest of the party, who reached Mr. Levi's station
the same evening (January 9th) on which they parted from the two men. On
Friday, January 11th, Mr. Stuart writes:
"I have now all put in order, and consider myself fairly started, with
thirty weeks' provisions. Day extremely hot. An eclipse of the sun took
place at noon. Although our poor little dog Toby is carried on one of the
pack-horses, he is unable to bear this great heat. I fear he will not
survive the day. Arrived at Milne Springs about 5 p.m. At sundown poor
little Toby died, regretted by us all, for he had already become a great
favourite."
On January 21st Mr. Stuart reached the Neale Creek, a little to the east
of where he struck it before, but found that the large bodies of water
had nearly all gone; by digging in the sand of the main channel, however,
they obtained sufficient for their immediate wants. Exploring parties
were despatched up and down the creek, and returned, reporting abundance
of water eight miles above and five miles below where they were. They
also brought back with them some fish, resembling the bream, which were
very palatable when cooked. An attack of dysentery prevented Mr. Stuart
from proceeding for a few days, and, during his stay, the natives, while
studiously keeping themselves out of sight, set fire to the surrounding
grass. On the 27th the expedition arrived at the Hamilton, after a heavy
journey of thirty-five miles. "I observed," says Mr. Stuart, "a peculiar
feature in one of the families of the mulga bushes; the branches seemed
to be covered with hoar frost, but on closer examination it turned out to
be a substance resembling honey in taste and thickness. It was
transparent, and presented a very pretty appearance when the sun shone
upon it, making the branches look as though they were hung with small
diamonds."
The course now taken was through Bagot range to the Stevenson, where they
arrived on February 1st. The next day they proceeded northward, and at
eight miles came upon a large water hole, which was named Lindsay Creek,
after J. Lindsay, Esquire, M.L.A. This water hole was one hundred and
fifty yards long, thirty wide, and from eight to fifteen feet deep in the
deepest parts. The native cucumber was growing upon its banks, and the
feed was abundant. Here they met with immense numbers of brown pigeons,
of the same description as those found by Captain Sturt in 1845. There
were thousands of them; in fact, they flew by in such dense masses that,
on two occasions, Woodforde killed thirteen with a single shot. The
travellers pronounced them first-rate eating. Many natives, tall,
powerful fellows, were seen, but they did not speak with them. After
trying for water in the neighbourhood of Mount Daniel, they were
compelled to return to Lindsay Creek, which they did not quit until
February 9th, when they camped on another creek, which was named the
Coglin, after P.B. Coglin, Esquire, M.L.A. From this place Mr. Stuart
started, accompanied by Thring and Woodforde, to examine the condition of
the Finke, and found its bed broad, and filled with white drift sand, but
without water. A hole ten feet deep was sunk in the sand, but just as the
increasing moisture gave them hope of finding water, the sides gave way,
and Thring had a narrow escape of being buried alive. After sinking
several other holes, but without success, they turned to another creek,
coming more from the westward, and in a short time discovered six native
wells near to what was evidently a large camping-place of the natives.
The ground for one hundred yards round was covered with worleys, and at
one spot they seemed to have had a grand corroberrie, the earth being
trodden quite hard, as if a large number had been dancing upon it in a
circle. They had left one of their spears behind, a formidable weapon
about ten feet long, with a flat round point, the other end being made
for throwing with the womera. On the 13th Mr. Stuart and his two
companions returned to the camp on the Coglin, after discovering a place
about four miles from the six native wells, where sufficient water could
be obtained by digging. On the 14th three of the men were sent in advance
to dig a hole at this place, and the following day the whole party moved
forward to join them. Here the natives annoyed them much by setting fire
to the grass in every direction.
Marchant Springs (on the Finke) were reached on February 22nd, and here
Mr. Stuart noticed a remarkable specimen of native carving. He says: "The
natives had made a drawing on the bark of two trees--two figures in the
shape of hearts, intended, I suppose, to represent shields. There was a
bar down the centre, on either side of which were marks like broad
arrows. On the outside were also a number of arrows, and other small
marks. I had a copy of them taken. This was the first attempt at
representation by the natives of Australia which I had ever seen."
Following the course of the Finke, they arrived on the 25th at some
springs which were rendered memorable by Mr. Stuart's favourite mare
Polly. She became very ill, and on the morning of the 26th slipped her
foal. Polly had been with her master on all his previous journeys, and
was much too valuable and faithful a creature to be left behind; besides,
she was second to none in enduring hardship and fatigue. They therefore
waited another night to give her time to recover, and Mr. Stuart named
the springs Polly Springs in her honour. On the 27th they again moved
northwards, still following the course of the Finke, and, after a short
journey of ten miles, camped at what were afterwards called Bennett
Springs. It is worthy of remark that while the horses were in this water
drinking, one of them kicked out a fish about eight inches long and three
broad--an excellent sign of the permanency of the water. Here several of
the horses were taken violently ill, and the next morning one of them
could not be found. Mr. Stuart writes:
"Thursday, 28th February, The Finke, Bennett Springs. Found all the
horses but one named Bennett. Sent two of the party out in search of him;
at 9 a.m. they returned, having been all round, but could see nothing of
him. I then sent out four, to go round the tracks and see if he had
strayed into the sand hills. At noon they returned unsuccessful. Sent
five men to search, but at 2 p.m. they likewise returned without having
discovered him. I then went out myself, and, in half-an-hour, found the
poor animal lying dead in a hole, very much swollen. Blood seemed to have
come from his mouth and nostrils. He must have died during the night. I
am afraid that there is some description of poisonous plant in the sand
hills, and that the horses have eaten some of it. As he lay he appeared
to have been coming from the sand hills, and making for the water. He
seemed to have fallen down three times before he died. I never saw horses
taken in the same way before--in a moment they fell down and became quite
paralysed. The cream-coloured horse, that was taken so ill last night,
must also have eaten the poison. We were upwards of two hours before we
could get him right. As soon as he got on his legs, his limbs shook so
that he immediately fell down. This he did for more than a dozen times.
As we were very much in want of hobble-straps, I sent Mr. Kekwick, with
three others, to take Bennett's skin and shoes off. We found no
indication of poison on opening him. This is a very great loss to me, for
he was one of my best packhorses--one that had been with me before, and
that I could depend upon for a hard push."