Fisher, bearing 120 degrees. Started at 7.15 a.m., bearing 290 degrees;
at 11.40 changed to 264 degrees, to some rising ground; at 12.45 p.m.,
after crossing stony hills, we crossed a gum creek on the west side, with
long reaches of water in it running north-west, which I supposed to be
the Bonney; but as there appeared to be more and larger gum-trees farther
on, I continued, to see if there were not another channel. Proceeded
three miles over low limestone rises, with small flats between, on which
was growing spinifex, and the gum-trees which I had seen--exactly the
same description of country from which I was forced to return through
want of water on my former journey from Mount Denison to north-west. I
therefore returned to the creek, which I find to be the Bonney, now much
smaller, but containing plenty of water--followed it down to
north-north-west for about one mile, and then camped. The water is in
long reaches, which I think are permanent.
Tuesday, 16th April, The Bonney. Still cloudy. Started at 8 a.m. on a
bearing of 380 degrees. At 11.15 changed to 40 degrees, with the
intention of cutting the McLaren. Camped at 3.40 p.m. Three miles from
our start the creek spreads itself over a large grassy plain, thickly
studded with gum-trees, covered with long grass, and a great number of
white ants' nests of all sizes and shapes, putting one in mind of walking
through a large cemetery. In many places it was very boggy. We followed
it for ten miles, but it still continued the same; I could not see more
than one hundred yards before me, the gum-trees, and sometimes a low
scrub, being so thick. Not seeing anything of the McLaren coming into the
plain, I changed my course to cut it and run it down, as I think that it
will form a large creek where they join. In three miles we got out of the
plain upon a red sandy soil, with spinifex, and scrubs of all kinds, in
some places very thick, and difficult to get the horses through. When we
were in the gum plain the atmosphere was so close and heavy, and the
ground so soft, that the sweat was running in streams from the horses;
and when we halted for a few minutes they were puffing and blowing as
though they had just come in from running a race. I continued the second
course for fourteen miles, but saw nothing of the McLaren; it must have
joined the plain before I left it. Thus ends the Bonney and the McLaren.
We passed over several quartz and ironstone ranges of low hills crossing
our course, and camped under a high one, without water. Wind south-east.
Cloudy.
Wednesday, 17th April,* (* The Journal of this Expedition, as published
by the Royal Geographical Society, commences here.) Quartz Hill, West
Mount Blyth. Started at 7.25 a.m. on a bearing of 70 degrees. We again
passed quartz hills running as yesterday; the spinifex still continuing,
with a little grass, until we came within a mile of the hills in the
Murchison range; finding some water, I camped, and gave the horses the
rest of the day to recruit. Last night after sundown, and during the
night, we had a few slight showers of rain, and a great deal of thunder
and lightning, mostly from south-west. About 11 to-day the clouds all
cleared away. About a mile before camping, we observed the ground covered
with numerous native tracks; also that a number of the gum-trees were
stripped of their bark all round.
Thursday, 18th April, West Mount Blyth. Started at 7.40 a.m., same
bearing, across the Murchison range, in which we found great difficulty.
On the north-east side of Mount Blyth we found a large gum creek of
permanent water, and camped. I have named this Ann Creek. I then rode to
the highest point of the range, taking Thring with me, to see if there is
any rising ground to north-west by which I may cross the gum plain. I
could see no rise, nothing but a line of dark-green wood on the horizon.
We had great difficulty in getting to the top, the rocks being so
precipitous. In coming down the eastern side we were gratified by the
sight of a beautiful waterfall, upwards of one hundred feet high, over
columns of basaltic rock, its form, two sides of a triangle, the water
coming over the angle. Wind, south-east.
Friday, 19th April, Ann Creek. Started at 7.45 a.m., on a course of 324
degrees, towards Mount Samuel. After sundown arrived at Goodiar Creek;
one of the horses done up; had to leave him a little distance back; he is
unwell. On leaving the Murchison range we crossed a number of quartz
reefs and hills running east and south-west. Wind, south-south-east.
Saturday, 20th April, Goodiar Creek. Three horses missing this morning,
in consequence of the scarcity of feed. The horse left behind last night
has been brought in; he looks very bad indeed. About 11 a.m. the other
horses were found, brought in, and saddled, and we proceeded on a
north-north-west course for Bishop Creek, but found the sick horse too
ill to proceed further than Tennant Creek, where we camped, there being
plenty of water and feed. Two natives were seen by Masters this morning
when in search of the horses--he could not get them to come near him.
Wind, south-west.
Sunday, 21st April, Tennant Creek. Wind from south-west; a few clouds
from east.
Monday, 22nd April, Tennant Creek. Started at 7.30 a.m., course 21
degrees, for Bishop Creek, and at twelve miles made it. I find that two
of the horses are so weak that they are unable to go any further without
giving in, I have therefore camped, giving them the remainder of the day
to recruit. Native fires are smoking all around us, but at some distance
off. Wind, east.
Tuesday, 23rd April, Bishop Creek. It is late before we can get a start
to-day, in consequence of one of the horses concealing himself in the
creek. He is an unkind brute, we have much trouble with him in that
respect; he is constantly hiding himself somewhere or other. Started at
9.30 a.m., on a course of 17 degrees, to cross Short range. Found plenty
of water in Phillips Creek; the grass on its banks, and on the plains
where it empties itself, is splendid, two feet and a half long, fit for
the scythe to go into, and an abundant crop of hay could be obtained. We
then crossed the range a little north of where I passed before, and found
some slight difficulty. After descending, we struck a small creek which
supplies Kekwick Ponds, and is a tributary to Hayward Creek; found plenty
of water and camped at 3 p.m. Feed abundant. Wind, south-east.
Wednesday, 24th April, Hayward Creek. Started at 7.40 a.m.; course 17
degrees. At 9.30 changed to 14 degrees 30 minutes west of north, and at
12.30 arrived at Attack Creek; camped at the same place that I did on my
former journey. Tracks of natives about, but we have seen none of them. I
kept about a mile to the west of my former track, and found the country
much more open. The banks of both creeks for two or three miles are
splendidly covered with grass, in some places over the horses' heads.
Four of the horses are ill, and looking very bad indeed. Wind,
south-west.
Thursday, 25th April, Attack Creek. Started at 7.50 a.m., on a course of
294 degrees, to the top of the range, which I have named Whittington
Range, after William S. Whittington, Esquire, of Adelaide. At six miles
reached the top. At 9.50 changed to north-west, and at 11.30 struck a
large gum creek running east, with large water holes in it. At about two
hundred yards crossed it again, running to the west, and shortly
afterwards crossed it again, running to the east. I have called it
Morphett Creek, after the Honourable John Morphett, Chief Secretary. We
then ascended another portion of the range, and continued along a spur on
our course. This range presents quite a new feature, in having gums
growing on the top and all round it; it is composed of masses of
ironstone, granite, sand, and limestone, and in some places white marble.
Thinking that the creek we had passed might break through a low part of
the range, which I could see to the north-west, at ten miles I changed to
west, and crossed to the other range, but found the dip of the country to
the south. We could find no water; traced the creek to the south-east for
two miles, found some water and camped. The range is very rough and
stony, covered with spinifex; but the creeks are beautifully grassed.
Native smoke to east. This is one of the sources of Morphett Creek, and
flows to the east; it is as large, if not larger, than Attack Creek, and,
in all probability, contains water holes quite as fine to the eastward.
Latitude, 18 degrees 50 minutes 40 seconds.
Friday, 26th April, Morphett Creek. At 8 a.m. started on a course of 300
degrees to cross the north-west part of the range. Camped upon a plain of
the same description as John Plain, that I met with on my former journey
to the north-east of Bishop Creek, a large open plain covered with grass,
and with only a few bushes on it. The journey to-day has been very rough
and stony. Not a drop of water have we passed to-day, nor is there the
appearance of any on before us. I shall be compelled to fall back
to-morrow to the water of last night. Four of the horses, I am afraid,
will not be able to get there. I must try more to the north, and
endeavour to get quit of the plains, and get amongst the creeks. There is
no hope of success on this course. Latitude, 18 degrees 38 minutes. Wind,
east.
Saturday, 27th April, Grassy Plains. Started at 7.10 a.m., course 110
degrees, to the other side of the plain. At three miles came upon a small
creek running towards the north; I followed it down to the north. At
three miles came upon a fine large creek, coming from the south-east,
with plenty of water. Returned to the party, took them down to the large
creek on north course, and at three miles camped. Two of the horses are
nearly done up. Wind, south-east. Latitude, 18 degrees 35 minutes 20
seconds.
Sunday, 28th April, Tomkinson Creek. Sent Thring down to examine and see
how the creek runs. I have named it after S. Tomkinson, Esquire, Manager
of the Bank of Australasia, at Adelaide. We have found many new plants
and flowers, also some trees, one of which grows to a considerable size,
the largest being about a foot in diameter. The fruit is about the size
and colour, and has the appearance of plums; the bark is of a grey
colour; the foliage oval, and dark-green. Another is more of a bush, and
has a very peculiar appearance; the seed vessel is about the size of an
orange, but more pointed. When ripe it opens into four divisions, which
look exactly like honeycomb inside, and in which the seeds are
contained; they are about the size of a nut, the outside being very
hard. The natives roast and eat them. The leaves resemble the mulberry,
and are of a downy light-green. We have obtained a few of the seeds of
it. The bean-tree does not seem to grow up here. Mr. Kekwick, in looking
for plants this morning, discovered one which very much resembles wheat
in straw (which is very tough), ear, and seed. It grows two feet high.
The seed is small, but very much like wheat both in shape and colour. At
about 3 p.m. Thring returned, having run the creek out into a large
grassy plain. The course of this creek is west-north-west for about nine
miles; it then turns to west, and empties itself into the plain. There
is plenty of water about, but where it empties itself it becomes quite
dry. The native companion, the emu, and the sacred ibis are on this
creek. The country is splendidly grassed. We have got to the north side
of the Whittington range. I shall have to leave my two done-up horses
here, and will get them when I return. The hills and rocks are of the
same description as the first part of the range. Wind, south. Sun hot,
but the nights and mornings are very cold.
Monday, 29th April, Tomkinson Creek. Had a late start this morning in
consequence of my having to take a lunar observation. Started at 10.30
a.m. At 2.10 p.m. reached the top of a high hill; from this we could see
a gum creek. Started at 2.30 to examine it; found water, and camped at 4.
I have named the hill Mount Primrose, after John Primrose, Esquire, of
North Adelaide. This water will last us six or eight weeks. The country
passed to-day has been mostly stony rises of the same description as the
other parts of the range. The valleys have a light sandy soil, nearly all
with spinifex and scrub. The view from the top of Mount Primrose is not
extensive, except to the west and south-west, which appears to be thick
wood or scrub. Near the top we met with the Eucalyptus Dumosa. Wind,
south-east. Latitude, 18 degrees 25 minutes.
Tuesday, 30th April, Carruthers Creek. The creek in which we are now
camped I have named Carruthers Creek, after John Carruthers, Esquire, of
North Adelaide. Started at 8.50 a.m. At 1.50 p.m. found a creek running
from the range, with a splendid hole of permanent water situated under a
cliff, where the creek leaves the range; it is very deep, with a rocky
bottom. From the top of the range the country seems to be very thick,
which I am afraid is scrub; no high hills visible. To the north of this
the range appears to cease; I wish it had continued for another sixty
miles. The country passed to-day has been stony rises coming from the
range, very rough and rocky indeed. My horses' shoes are nearly all gone;
I am obliged to let some go without--they have felt the last four rough
days very much. Spinifex, scrub, and stunted gums all the day, with
occasionally a few tufts of grass; this is very poor country indeed.
Smoke of native fires still in south-east. The hills of the same
formation as those we first came upon in entering the ranges from Attack
Creek. I have named this creek Hunter Creek, after Mr. Hunter, of Messrs.
Hunter, Stevenson, and Co., of Adelaide. Camped. The horses seem very
tired. Wind, east. Latitude, 18 degrees 17 minutes.
Wednesday, 1st May, Hunter Creek. Started at 8 a.m., course, 305 degrees.
At 8.45 crossed the Hunter going south-west; it came round again and
continued crossing our course thirteen times in nine miles, after which
it was lost in a large grassy and gum plain. At 5.15 camped. The plain in
which the creek loses itself bears south-west; the banks are beautifully
grassed, but about a mile on either side the soil is sandy, with spinifex
and scrub, which continued for nine miles; we then entered upon a scrub
and grassy plain. Here I noticed a new and very beautiful tree--in some
instances a foot in diameter--with drooping branches. Its bark was grey
and rough, and it had a small dark-green leaf, shaped like a butterfly's
wing. Not finding a creek, nor the least indication of a watercourse, and
the scrub becoming very thick, I changed to north, to see if I could find
any water; but at three miles we lost the gums, the new tree taking their
place, and becoming very thick scrub with plenty of grass, but no signs
of a watercourse. I again changed to east in the hope of cutting one in
that direction. At one mile and a half again came upon small gums; and at
three miles, seeing neither creek nor any hope of getting water, camped.
The horses very tired. Wind light from west-north-west. Latitude, 18
degrees 3 minutes 19 seconds.
Thursday, 2nd May, Large Scrubby and Grassy Plain. Started at 10 a.m. in
consequence of some of the horses having strayed a long way to the east
during the night; course, 143 degrees 30 minutes, back to Hunter Creek. I
have taken a different course to see if there is any creek that supplies
this plain with water. For about nine miles we passed over a splendidly
grassed plain, with gum-trees, the new tree, and a number of all sorts of
bushes. One part for about three miles is subject to inundation, and the
Eucalyptus Dumosa grows thickly on it. We then passed over about two
miles of spinifex and grass, and again entered the grassy plain, which
continued to Hunter Creek. During the whole day we have not seen the
shadow of a creek or watercourse. If there had been any sign of a
watercourse, or if I could have seen any rising ground near our course, I
would have gone on another day. I sent Wall to the top of the highest
tree to see if there was anything within view; he could see nothing but
the same description of plain. If my horses can travel to-morrow, I will
try a course to the north, and run down the creek, to see if there is one
that will lead me through this plain. If I could get to some rising
ground, I think I should be all right; but there is none visible except
the end of the range, which is lost sight of to the north-east. Wind
again south-east, with a few clouds. Latitude, 18 degrees 13 minutes 40
seconds.
Friday, 3rd May, Hunter Creek. Started at 8.40 a.m.; course, north. At
11.15 (nine miles), came upon a creek; bed dry and sandy; searched for
water, and, at three quarters of a mile to east, found a nice hole;
watered the horses and proceeded on the same course--starting at 12. At
3.20 p.m. changed to 20 degrees north of east; the first ten miles were
over a plain of gums covered with grass two feet long; we had then six
miles of spinifex, and a thick scrub of dwarf lancewood, as tough as
whalebone. After that we entered upon another gum plain, also splendidly
grassed, which continued for four miles, when the gums suddenly ceased,
and it became a large open plain to north, as far as I could see. Seeing
no appearance of water, I changed my course to 30 degrees north of east,
to some high gums; and, at one mile, not finding any, I camped without
it. This seems now to be a change of country; there is no telling when or
where I may get the next water on this course, so that I shall be
compelled to go towards the range to-morrow to get some, and have a long
day's journey to the new country. The wind has been from east all day.
Latitude, 17 degrees 56 minutes 40 seconds.
Saturday, 4th May, Sturt Plains. Started at 7.15 a.m., course east, to
find water. At 3.20 p.m. came upon a little creek and found a small
quantity of water, which we gave to the horses. Started again at 9 p.m.,
course south-east, following the creek to find more; at a mile and a half
found water which will do for us until Monday morning. I proceeded to the
top of the range to obtain a view of the country round, but was
disappointed in its height; from the plain it appeared higher than it
really is. This range I have named Ashburton Range, after Lord Ashburton,
President of the Royal Geographical Society. The point upon which I am at
present is about three miles east of our camp; the view from south to
north-west is over a wooded plain; from north-west to north is a large
open plain with scarcely a tree upon it. On leaving our last night's
camp, we passed over three miles of the plain, which is subject to
inundation. There are numerous nasty holes in it, into which the horses
were constantly stumbling. It is covered with splendid grass, and is as
fine a country as I have ever crossed. These plains I have named Sturt
Plains, after the venerable father of Australian exploration and my
respected commander of the expedition in 1845. Ashburton range is
composed of sandstone and ironstone, granite, and a little quartz; it is
very rough and broken. Native tracks about here. Wind, south-east. This
creek I have named Watson Creek, after Mr. Watson, formerly of Clare.
Sunday, 5th May, Watson Creek, Ashburton Range. Sent Thring to the north
along the range to see if there is permanent water; at eight miles he
returned, having found plenty. One large hole is about a mile from here;
in another creek it is apparently permanent, having a rocky bed. A flight
of pelicans over head to-day; they seem to have come from the north-west,
which course I will try to-morrow. Wind, south-east. Latitude, 17 degrees
58 minutes 40 seconds.
Monday, 6th May, Watson Creek, Ashburton Range. Started at 8.20 a.m.,
course 300 degrees, to cross Sturt Plain. At eleven miles arrived at the
hill which I saw from Ashburton range. It turned out to be the banks of
what was once a fresh-water lake; the water-wash is quite distinct. It
had small iron and limestone gravel, with sand and a great number of
shells worn by the sun and atmosphere to the thinness of paper, plainly
indicating that it is many years since the water had left them. Judging
from the water-marks, the lake must have been about twelve feet deep in
the plain. The eucalyptus is growing here. We then proceeded over another
open part of it, for about two miles, when the dwarf eucalypti again
commenced, and continued until we camped at twenty-one miles; the horses
quite worn out. This has been the hardest and most fatiguing day's work
we have had since starting from Chambers Creek; for, from the time we
left in the morning until we camped, we have had nothing but a succession
of rotten ground, with large deep holes and cracks in it, caused at a
former period by water, into which the poor horses have been constantly
falling the whole day, running the risk of breaking their legs and our
necks, the grass being so long and thick that they could not possibly see
them before they were into them. I had a very severe fall into one of
these holes; my horse came right over and rolled nearly on top of me. I
was fortunate enough to escape with little injury. Some of the shells
resemble the cockle shell, but are much longer, many of them being three
or four inches long; the others are of the shape of periwinkles, but six
times as large. Both sorts are scattered over the plain, which is
completely matted with grass. The soil is a dark rich alluvial, and
judging from the cracks and holes, some of which are of considerable
depth, they are splendid plains, but not a drop of surface water could we
see upon them, nor a single bird to indicate that there is any. It was my
intention at starting to have gone on thirty miles, but I find it quite
impossible for the horses to do more; it would be madness to take them
another day over such a country, when from the highest tree we can see no
change. If I were to go another day and be without water, I should never
be able to get one of the horses back, and in all probability should lose
the lives of the whole party. If I could see the least chance of finding
water, or a termination of the plain, I would proceed and risk
everything. I see there is no hope of my reaching the river by this
course. I believe this gum plain to be a continuation of the one I met
with beyond the Centre, and that it may continue to the banks of the
Victoria. The features of the country are nearly the same. The absence of
all birds has a bad appearance. Day very hot. Wind, south-east. Latitude,
17 degrees 49 minutes.
Tuesday, 7th May, Sturt Plains. Before sunrise this morning I sent Wall
up a tree to see if any hills or rising grounds would be visible by
refraction. To the west, with a powerful telescope he can just see the
top of rising ground. As the grass is now quite dry, the horses feel the
want of water very much; many of them are looking wretched, and I hardly
think will be able to reach it. However reluctant, I must go back for the
safety of the party. At 3 p.m. arrived at the creek which Thring found
about one mile to the north of my former camp, with the loss of only one
horse; we had to leave him a short distance behind, he would not move a
step further, although during a great part of the journey he had been
carrying little or nothing. This water will last two months at least;
feed good. It is inside the first ironstone rise in Ashburton range, in a
gum creek which empties itself into the plains. This creek I have named
Hawker Creek, after James Hawker, Esquire, of her Majesty's Customs at
Port Adelaide. The day has been very hot. Wind, south-east. Latitude, 17
degrees 58 minutes.
Wednesday, 8th May, Hawker Creek, Ashburton Range. I have sent Masters
back to bring up the horse we left behind. Sturt Plains have been at one
time the bed of a large fresh-water lake; our journey of the 6th instant
was over the middle of it, and we were not at the end of it when I was
forced to return; the same rotten ground and shells continued, although
we had got amongst the eucalypti. I shall give the horses a rest to-day,
and to-morrow will take the best of them (those that I had out on my
former journey), and endeavour to cross the plain to the rising ground
seen yesterday morning; I shall take Thring and Woodforde, with seven
horses and one week's provisions. I may be fortunate enough to find some
water, but from the appearance of the country I have little hope. I
shall, however, leave nothing untried to accomplish the object of the
expedition. In the morning the horse we left behind could not be found;
sent Masters and Sullivan in search of him; in the afternoon they
returned with him looking miserable. He had wandered away beyond the
other camp.