around us. It was my intention last night to have gone this morning to
Kekwick Ponds to water the horses, then to give them the day to rest, and
proceed to-morrow back again to the large creek, and go on to the distant
hills that I was steering for on the 25th instant, but, after considering
the matter over the whole night, I have most reluctantly come to the
determination to abandon the attempt to make the Gulf of Carpentaria.
Situated as I now am, it would be most imprudent. In the first place my
party is far too small to cope with such wily, determined natives as
those we have just encountered. If they had been Europeans they could not
better have arranged and carried out their plan of attack. They had
evidently observed us passing in the morning, had examined our tracks to
see which way we had gone, and knew we could get no water down the creek,
but must retrace our steps to obtain it above them; they therefore lay in
wait for our return. Their charge was in double column, open order, and
we had to take steady aim, to make an impression. With such as these for
enemies in our rear, and, most probably, far worse in advance, it would
be destruction to all my party for me to attempt to go on. All the
information of the interior that I have already obtained would be lost.
Moreover, we have only half rations for six months, four of which are
gone, and I have been economizing as much as I possibly could in case of
our having to be out a longer time, so that my men now complain of great
weakness, and are unable to perform what they have to do. Again, only two
showers of rain have fallen since March, and I am afraid of the waters
drying up to the south, and there is no appearance of rain at present.
The days are now become very hot again, and the feed for the horses as
dry as if it were the middle of summer. The poor animals are very much
reduced in condition, so much so that I am afraid of their being longer
than one night without water. Finally, my health is so bad, that I am
hardly able to sit in the saddle. After taking all those things into
consideration, I think it would be madness and folly to attempt more. If
my own life were the only sacrifice, I would willingly risk it to
accomplish my purpose; but it seems that I am destined to be
disappointed; man proposes, but the Almighty disposes, and his will must
be obeyed. Seeing the signal fires around, and dreading lest our black
friends at Kekwick Ponds might have been playing a double part with us,
in spite of their Masonic signs, I gave them a wide berth, and steered
for Bishop Creek. Arrived there in the afternoon, and found that the
creek had not been visited by natives since we left. These natives do not
deposit their dead bodies in the ground, but place them in the trees,
and, judging from the number of these corpses which we have passed
between this and the large creek, where they made their attack upon us,
they must be very numerous. These natives have quite a different cast of
features from those in the south; they have neither the broad flat nose
and large mouth, nor the projecting eyebrows, but have more of the Malay;
they are tall, muscular, well-made men, and I think they must have seen
or encountered white men before.
Thursday, 28th June, Bishop Creek. Camped at the rocky water hole
north-east side of the McDouall range.
Friday, 29th June, Anderson Creek. Crossed the McDouall ranges and camped
on a gum creek on the north-east side of the Murchison ranges, which I
have named Gilbert Creek, after Thomas Gilbert, Esquire, late Colonial
Storekeeper.
Saturday, 30th June, Gilbert Creek. Crossed the Murchison ranges, and the
large gum creek coming from them, and running west-north-west, which I
have named Baker Creek, after the Honourable John Baker, M.L.C. I did not
examine it, but should think from its appearance that there is water in
it; besides, I can distinguish the smoke of a native encampment.
Proceeded to the creek where we camped before, but found all the water
gone, except a little moisture in the bottom of the holes. I was rather
surprised at this, for I thought it would have lasted three months at
least. Went to another creek, where there was a large hole of water in
conglomerate rock; this we found also to be very much reduced; when we
last saw it, its depth was four feet, and now it is only eighteen inches.
Camped.
Sunday, 1st July, Murchison Ranges. My horses very tired, and three of
them are nearly done up.
Monday, 2nd July, Murchison Ranges. Proceeded to the Bonney Creek to get
feed for the horses, there being very little besides spinifex under the
ranges. Smoke of native encampments on and about the creek; I must be
very careful.
Tuesday, 3rd July, The Bonney Creek. We have not seen any more of the
natives yet. I shall rest the horses to-day, there being plenty of feed,
which they very much want. Being so very few of us, I am obliged to turn
them out with the saddles on; so that, if we are attacked again, one can
put the packs on, while I and the other defend him. The water in this
hole is very much reduced, but I think it will not fail altogether, in
consequence of the small fish being in it. From the diminution of the
water in this creek since I left it, a month ago, I am inclined to think
that I shall have a very hard push to get back; my horses being so weak
from the hardships they have undergone, that they are now unable to do as
much as they did before. I fear that I shall not get any water between
this and Forster's range, a distance of upwards of eighty miles, so I
shall rest them here for a week, if the natives will be quiet; if not, I
must run the risk of losing more of them. To-day, I had made up my mind
to follow out this creek, to see if the waters continue, and if it would
take me to the north of the spinifex and gum-tree plain which I had to
turn back from on my north-west course from Mount Denison, and if rain
falls to try again for the Victoria River. I am, however, disappointed,
for, on weighing the rations, I find I am terribly short, which I did not
expect, and which cuts off all hope of my attaining that point. My
troubles and vexations seem to come upon me all at once. Had I but a
stronger party, and six months' rations, I think I should be able to
accomplish something before my return. I have done my best, and can do no
more. My eyesight is now so bad that I cannot depend upon my
observations, which will be a great loss to me; and the scurvy has
returned with greater severity. Before I start on my return, if
everything goes right, I shall run down this creek a short distance. It
may, at some future time, turn out to be the road to the Victoria River,
or one of its tributaries. Wind south and south-west.
Wednesday, 4th July, The Bonney Creek. The water in this hole has been
diminishing very rapidly since we were here; it is falling at the rate of
six inches per day, which is a poor look-out for us on our homeward
course. I have not a day to spare now, as the weather is becoming very
hot, and will dry it up much faster. I must push back as soon as my
horses are rested and able to undergo the eighty miles without water. I
must give up the examination of this creek, for every day now is of the
utmost importance, and I must not give the horses one mile more than I
can help. Oh! that rain would fall before I leave this. It would indeed
be an inestimable blessing. Wind from all points. At sundown a few clouds
have made their appearance.
Thursday, 5th July, The Bonney Creek. During the night it became very
cloudy from the west, and this morning still continues. My hopes are
again raised. If it should rain, I shall try for the Victoria River
again, even though I should be without rations for my return; I could
kill one of the horses and dry his flesh, and that would take me back.
Still very cloudy, and every sign of rain. I am making preparations for
another trial. At sundown there are still heavy black clouds coming from
the west, which have raised our hopes of success to the highest point,
and I ardently trust they will be realized. No natives have come near us,
yet they are still about.
Friday, 6th July, The Bonney Creek. A sad, sad disappointment; all our
most sanguine hopes are again gone, for, during the night, the clouds
broke up and have all vanished; it is very vexing. I shall rest the
horses till Monday, and then, ill and dispirited, commence my homeward
journey. I dare not venture into a new route, for, want of water, and the
low condition of my horses, compel me to keep my former track. Last night
about 10 o'clock, I observed the comet for the first time, above the west
horizon; it set at 7 o'clock 20 degrees north of west. At sundown it has
become overcast with heavy clouds, and my hopes are again raised; I trust
we may get it now. Midnight: still cloudy, and every appearance of rain.
Wind changeable.
Saturday, 7th July, The Bonney Creek. Alas! all the clouds are again
gone; our hopes were only raised to be dashed down with greater
disappointment. The wind has returned to its old quarter, south-east.
Natives still about, but they do not come near us. I shall now prepare
for my return on Monday morning; it is very disheartening.
Sunday, 8th July, The Bonney Creek. The weather has every appearance of
being dry for some time to come, not a cloud to be seen; the wind
south-east, and very cold night and morning. All hope of making the coast
is now gone. On weighing our rations to-day, I find that we are again
short since we halted here. The man Ben has been making it a regular
practice to steal them since he has been with me. I have caught him
several times doing so, and all the threats and warnings of the
consequences have had no effect upon him. They deter him for a day or
two, and then he is as bad as ever. I have been in the habit of reducing
our allowance to make up for the loss, which has been very hard upon
Kekwick and myself; he has helped himself to about double his allowance
during the journey.
Monday, 9th July, The Bonney Creek. Started for the Davenport range,
where we camped before; the water is all dried up. Ascended the range,
and changed my bearing to Mount Morphett, 196 degrees, in the Crawford
range, in the hope of finding water there. At four miles struck the creek
that I have before crossed nearer to the range, found water, and camped
to give my horses every chance. I have named this creek Barker Creek,
after Mr. Chambers' brother-in-law. I do not think this water is
permanent, but, from the number of birds that are passing up the creek, I
think there must be permanent water higher up. This range seems to yield
a deal of water on both sides. Native graves about.
Tuesday, 10th July, Barker Creek. Started at 6.30 on a bearing of 196
degrees towards Mount Strzelecki. At six miles crossed a gum creek,
coming from the range, and running to the west, on my former track. I
crossed it where it lost itself on the plain. The country is well
grassed, with a little spinifex occasionally, from the range to this
point. At twelve miles it became scrubby and sandy with a little grass,
spinifex predominating, which continued to where we camped. Wind,
south-east.
Wednesday, 11th July, Scrub North-north-east of Mount Strzelecki. One of
the horses having parted from the others, and gone a long distance off in
search of water, it was 9 o'clock before we could get a start. At seven
miles arrived at a lagoon north-east of Mount Strzelecki. Found a little
water and feed for the horses. Camped to give them the benefit of it.
Wind, south-south-east. Cold.
Thursday, 12th July, Lagoon North-east of Mount Strzelecki. Made an early
start, crossing the range, on a south course. Very rough and difficult.
Could see no water. To the south-east of Mount Morphett there is the
appearance of a creek, and on the south-west there are also the signs of
a watered country, which is more hilly. Proceeded on through the thick
dead mulga scrub, to the north side of Forster range, where we camped at
dark without water. The country passed over to-day is splendidly grassed,
especially as we approached the range. There is also a little spinifex,
but not much. Distance to-day, thirty-two miles.
Friday, 13th July, North Side of Forster Range. Started early, proceeding
to the gum creek coming from the north side of Forster's range, where we
found a little water, numerous fresh tracks of natives, and a great
number of birds. I have named this the Barrow Creek, after J.H. Barrow,
Esquire, M.P. Crossed the range to the Stirling Creek, which we followed
down, and found an abundant supply of water. The upper part of it is now
dry, and it is difficult to say whether it is permanent or not; but, to
judge from the number of native tracks and encampments, and the many
birds, I should think it is. The wood-duck is also on some of the pools.
At dark we can hear the natives down the creek.
Saturday, 14th July, Stirling Creek. I shall give the horses a rest
to-day and to-morrow, for I do not expect to get water before we reach
the reservoir in the Reynolds range. I am afraid it will be all gone in
the Hanson and at the Centre.
Sunday, 15th July, Stirling Creek. Resting horses, etc., etc.
Monday, 16th July, Stirling Creek. The natives were prowling about during
the night, and startled three horses, which separated from the others,
went off at full gallop, and were not recovered till noon, about four
miles off. Too late to start to-day, for which I am very sorry, as every
hour is now of the utmost value to us, in consequence of the evaporation
of the water. Not the slightest appearance of any rain yet. Wind, south.
Tuesday, 17th July, Stirling Creek. Proceeded to the Hanson. Shortly
after we started, we were followed by the natives, shouting as they came
along, but keeping at a respectful distance. They followed us through the
scrub for about two hours, but when we came to the open ground at the
lagoons they went off. I intended to have halted and spoken to them
there, thinking it would not be safe to do so in the scrub. They were
tall, powerful-looking fellows, and had their arms with them. We then
went on to the Hanson, crossing numerous fresh native tracks. On nearing
the water, we saw five blacks, who took fright and went off at full
speed. There were many more in the distance; in fact, they seemed to be
very numerous about here. The country all round was covered with their
tracks. Found water still there, but had to clear the sand away a little
to give the horses a drink. Thinking that it would not be safe to camp in
the neighbourhood of so many natives, I went on to the Central Creek, and
in going through some scrub, we again disturbed some more, but could only
see children, one a little fellow about seven years old, who was cleaning
some grass seeds in a worley, with a child who could just walk. The
moment he saw us he jumped up, and, seizing his father's spear, took the
child by the hand and walked off out of our way. It was quite pleasing to
see the bold spirit of the little fellow. On nearing Central Mount Stuart
we saw two men, who made off into the scrub. Arrived at the creek after
dark, but the water is all gone. On examining the hole where the water
was, we discovered a small native well, with a very little water, too
little to be of any service to me. To-morrow morning I must push on
through the scrub to Anna's Reservoir. My horses are still very weak, and
I do not think they will be able to do it in a day. Wind variable.
Wednesday, 18th July, Centre. Starting early, we crossed the Hanson, and
got through the scrub to the gum plains, where we camped at sundown, the
horses not being able to do the whole journey in one day. The creeks
empty themselves into the plains, but there is no water. Still, from the
number of birds that are about, I think there must be water not far away,
but I have no time to search for it. If I do not find water in the gum
creek (which is doubtful) the horses will have another long day's
journey. They are suffering much from the dryness of the feed, three of
them being infected with worms. Wind, south-east.
Thursday, 19th July, Gum Plains. Made our way through the remainder of
the scrub, and arrived in the afternoon at the gum creek, where we found
a little water, and clearing away the sand, obtained enough for our
horses. There will be enough for them to-day and to-morrow morning. I
shall therefore stop here for the rest of the day. There are some heavy
clouds coming up from the west and south-west, which I hope will give us
rain. Wind still from the south-east. The natives have been upon our old
tracks through the whole of the scrub in great numbers, and there are
many traces of them about this creek, some of which are quite fresh. The
drying up of the water round about has compelled them to collect round
this and other creeks which are permanent.
Friday, 20th July, Gum Creek North-east of Mount Freeling. Crossed the
Reynolds range to Anna's Reservoir, which is still full of water. I may
now say that this is permanent. The water we camped at is gone, but there
is still a little down the creek. We could not get enough for the horses
this morning in the creek we have left. Judging from the number of native
tracks that we have crossed this morning, there must be permanent water
on the north side of the range, which is composed of immense blocks of
granite, apparently on the top of mica slate, with occasional courses of
quartz and ironstone. To the north-east of where we camped last night,
about three miles distant, is the point of the range, on which there is a
very remarkable high peak, composed of ironstone, with a number of very
rough rounded ironstone hills. I have named this Mount Freeling. Here I
found indications of copper, the only place I have seen it in all this
journey. The natives do not seem to have frequented this reservoir much
of late, as there were no fresh tracks within two miles of it. In the
creek close by, there were some very old worleys. No rain;
clouds all gone. Wind, still south-east.
Saturday, 21st July, Anna's Reservoir, Reynolds Range. I shall remain
here till Monday morning to rest the horses, for they need it much; they
all have sore backs. A small pimple made its appearance under the saddle,
and has gradually spread into a large sore, which we cannot heal up; it
makes them very weak. The clouds have again made their appearance from
the north-west, and the wind has also changed to that quarter. I hope we
shall now get some rain, so that I can make short journeys for my horses,
to enable them to gather strength. Two long journeys on successive days
without water would reduce them again to the same state of weakness as
they were in at the Bonney Creek. For the last fourteen days we have been
getting a quantity of the native cucumber and other vegetables, which
have done me a great deal of good; the pains in my limbs and back are
much relieved, and I trust will soon go away altogether if these
vegetables hold out. We boil and eat the cucumbers with a little sugar,
and in this way they are very good, and resemble the gooseberry; we have
obtained from one plant upwards of two gallons of them, averaging from
one to two inches in length, and an inch in breadth.
Sunday, 22nd July, Anna's Reservoir. On examining the creek near the
reservoir, we have found some more large and deep water holes. I have
named this Wicksteed Creek. The clouds are again heavy, and have every
appearance of rain; they and the wind both come from the north-west.
Monday, 23rd July, Anna's Reservoir. No rain has fallen; again all the
clouds are gone. Started early for the spring in the North gorge,
McDonnell range, which we noticed on April 14th. Camped at dark in the
thick scrub and spinifex. No feed for the horses, so we had to tie them
up during the night. Wind, south-east again.
Tuesday, 24th July, Dense Scrub and Spinifex. Started through the
remainder of the scrub to the gorge, where we arrived at 7 o'clock, after
twelve hours' journey. Camped outside, and drove the horses up to the
spring. There is still the same supply of water; it is an excellent
spring, and might be of great importance to future exploration. I have
named it Hamilton Spring. Wind, variable.
Wednesday, 25th July, Hamilton Spring, McDonnell range. Resting the
horses. Yesterday afternoon we passed a great number of fresh tracks of
natives apparently going to Hamilton Peak, which leads me to think there
must be permanent water there. The peak is very high--quite as high as
Mount Arden, but there is another part of the spur higher than it, to
which I have given the name of Mount Hugh; further to the west-north-west
is a mount, still higher, which I have named Mount Hay. Wind, north-east.
It has been very hot to-day.
Thursday, 26th July, Hamilton Spring, McDonnell Range. Started across the
ranges to Brinkley Bluff, and camped on the east side. There is still
plenty of water in the Hugh, although greatly reduced. The natives have
been following our former tracks in great numbers; some of their
foot-prints are very large. There is a great quantity of marble in this
creek.
Friday, 27th July, Brinkley Bluff, McDonnell Range. Started down the
Hugh, and camped on the south side of Brinkley Bluff, finding plenty of
water all the way, in holes of various sizes, with reeds and rushes
growing round them, with plenty of feed on the banks. Wind, variable.
Saturday, 28th July, The Hugh, South Side of Brinkley Bluff, McDonnell
Range. Proceeded towards the Waterhouse range, and stopped at my former
camp of the 11th April. The spring still gives out an abundance of water;
we have also found another good spring on the south side of the creek,
which is here very broad, nearly two hundred yards wide, with a good
feeding country all round, and a small strip of salt-bush on the banks.
Splendid gum-trees in the creek. Wind, east; sun, hot.
Sunday, 29th July, The Hugh, between McDonnell and Waterhouse Ranges.
Wind variable; some clouds coming from the south-west.
Monday, 30th July, The Hugh, between McDonnell and Waterhouse Ranges.
Proceeded towards the range; at four miles crossed the creek, and half a
mile further entered the ranges. We made our former camp of April 9th on
the creek, but no water, so followed it down to the westward, and after
clearing a hole, found sufficient for our wants in the sand. Camped. Very
unwell. Wind, south-east. Not a drop of rain has fallen since we were
here before.
Tuesday, 31st July, Between the Waterhouse and James Ranges. Started on a
course of 220 degrees, following down the creek through James range,
instead of crossing it. I am afraid there will be no water at our camp on
the south side. I have a chance of getting some in the range. At two
miles met with a good water hole, under a sandstone hill. At seven miles
the creek enters the range; the bed is broad, sandy, and gravelled. At
twelve miles we found some water, and camped, as I am too unwell to
continue in the saddle any longer. Cleared a hole, and obtained water
sufficient for our purpose. Wind, south-east.
Wednesday, 1st August, In James Range, on the Hugh. Followed the creek
through the remainder of the range, and found water in four different
places. I have not the least doubt that there is plenty, but the creek is
so broad, and divided into so many courses, that it would require four
men at least to examine it well. On arriving at our camp of the 7th
April, we found all the water gone. Scratched in the sand, and found a
little moisture, but no water; after a fruitless search of an hour, I was
going back to the last water that I had seen, six miles distant, when two
emus came into the creek, and made for a large gum-tree in the middle. On
going to it, I found a fine hole of water round its roots. Camped. Wind
the same.
Thursday, 2nd August, The Hugh, South Side of James Range. Went down the
south side of the creek, through good grassy country. At fourteen miles
in a side creek we found a native well about four feet deep. We camped
here, as there is little prospect of finding any more water in the Hugh,
which is become broad and sandy. As to surface water, my men have neither
the strength nor the appliances for digging. There is plenty of water
under this sand, but having only a small tin dish, the labour is too
great. My men have now lost all their former energy and activity, and
move about as if they were a hundred years old; it is sad to see them;
our horses, too, suffer very much from their sore backs. On the south
side of the creek are some isolated hills, chiefly composed of limestone,
ironstone, quartz, and granite. This morning there was ice on the water
left in the tin dish, and also in the canteens, an eighth of an inch
thick. It was very cold.