of rain, which again raised our hopes, and about 4 o'clock it looked as
if we were to have a deluge, but, alas! it only rained for about two
minutes, and as much fell as would wet a pocket-handkerchief. Saddled and
started through the range, my poor little mare looking very bad this
morning; I have taken everything off her, so that she may hold out until
we get to water, and I have been obliged to leave as many things at this
camp as I could possibly do without. The mare lies down every few yards,
I am therefore compelled to leave her for the sake of the others. From
the number of birds about here, I think there must be water near; I hope
she may find it, although I am afraid she is too far gone even to try it.
At 1 o'clock, at the foot of Mount Woodcock, the horses' spirits revived
at sight of their old track. I shall now be able to get all the rest of
them safe to water, although there is one still doubtful. My own black
mare shows a few symptoms of madness, but still keeps on, and does her
work well. About an hour before sundown arrived at the water without any
more losses, for which I sincerely thank the Almighty. We have had a
terrible job to keep the horses from drinking too much water, but, as
they have now eaten a few mouthfuls of grass, I have allowed them to
drink as much as they thought proper. The natives have been here since we
left.
Tuesday, 12th June, Bishop Creek. Resting: the horses look very bad; they
remained by the water all night.
Wednesday, 13th June, Bishop Creek. The horses still look very bad this
morning; they have again stayed by the water nearly all night; they had
been one hundred and one hours without a drop, and have accomplished a
journey of one hundred and twelve miles; they will require a week to
recover; one of them is very lame from a kick the little mare gave him in
her madness. Thus ends my last attempt, at present, to make the Victoria
River; three times have I tried it, and have been forced to retreat.
About 11 o'clock I heard the voice of a native; looked round and could
see two in the scrub, about a quarter of a mile distant. I beckoned to
them to approach, but they kept making signs which I could not
understand. I then moved towards them, but the moment they saw me move,
they ran off immediately. About a quarter of an hour afterwards they
again made their appearance on the top of the quartz reef, opposite our
camp, and two others showed themselves in about the same place as the two
first did. Thinking this was the only water, I made signs to the two on
the reef to go to the water; but they still continued talking and making
signs which I could not understand; it seemed as if they wished us to go
away, which I was determined not to do. They then made a number of
furious frantic gestures, shaking their spears, and twirling them round
their heads, etc. etc., I suppose bidding us defiance. I should think the
youngest was about twenty-five years of age. He placed a very long spear
into the instrument they throw them with, and, after a few more gestures,
descended from the reef, and gradually came a little nearer. I made signs
of encouragement for him to come on, at the same time moving towards him.
At last we arrived on the banks of the creek, he on one side, and I on
the other. He had a long spear, a womera, and two instruments like the
boomerang, but more the shape of a scimitar, with a very sharp edge,
having a thick place at the end, roughly carved, for the hand. The
gestures he was making were now signs of hostility, and he came fully
prepared for war. I then broke a branch of green leaves from a bush, and
held it up towards him, inviting him to come across to me. As he did not
seem to fancy that, I crossed to where he was, and got within two yards
of him. He thought I was quite near enough, and would not have me any
nearer, for he kept moving back as I approached. I wished to get close up
to him, but he would not have it; we then stood still, and I tried to
make him understand, by signs, that all we wanted was water for two or
three days. At last he seemed to understand, nodded his head, pointed to
the water, then to our camp, and held up his five fingers. I then
endeavoured to learn from him if there was water to the north or
north-east, but I could make nothing of him. He viewed me very steadily
for a long time, began talking, and seeing that I did not understand him,
he made the sign that natives generally do of wanting something to eat,
and pointed towards me. Whether he meant to ask if I was hungry, or to
suggest that I should make a very good supper for him, I do not know, but
I bowed my head as if I understood him perfectly. We then separated, I
keeping a careful watch upon him all the time I was crossing the creek.
Before I left him the other one joined. The first was a tall, powerful,
well-made fellow, upwards of six feet; his hair was very long, and he had
a red-coloured net tied round his head, with the ends of his hair lying
on his shoulders. I observed nothing else that was peculiar about them.
They had neither skins nor anything round their bodies, but were quite
naked. They then took their departure. A short time afterwards I saw them
joined by five others. We have seen nothing more of them to-day, and I
hope they will not trouble us any more, but let me get my horses rested
in peace. Wind south, all the clouds gone; nights and mornings very cold.
Occupied during the day in shoeing horses, and repairing and making
saddle-bags.
Thursday, 14th June, Bishop Creek. On examining the water holes, I find
there are small crab fish in them, which leads me to think this water is
permanent. This morning we again hear the voices of the natives up the
creek to the west. There must be plenty more water up there, as most of
the birds go in that direction to drink, passing by this water. The
natives have not come near us to-day, but we have seen the smoke of their
fires. Shoeing horses, repairing and making saddle-bags, which were torn
all to pieces by the scrub.
Friday, 15th June, Bishop Creek. Resting horses, and getting our
equipment in order for another trial, as I think the horses will be ready
to start on Monday morning. No more of the natives but their smoke is
still visible. Wind south; day hot, night cool.
Saturday, 16th June, Bishop Creek. The horses are still drinking an
immense quantity of water; they are at it five and six times a day; they
must have suffered dreadfully. The grass here is as dry as if it were the
middle of summer, instead of winter. I hope we may soon have rain, which
would be a great blessing to me.
Sunday, 17th June, Bishop Creek. The horses still pay frequent visits to
the water. We have found more about a mile up the creek, and there seems
to be plenty further up in the hills; I cannot examine it just now, in
consequence of the natives being about. It would not do for me to leave,
as the party is so small, nor do I like sending one of them, for he might
be taken by surprise and cut off, which would ruin me altogether, being
able to do scarcely anything myself. Although I am much better, I am
still very weak; the pains in my limbs are not so constant. I attribute
the relief to eating a number of native cucumbers which are in quantities
on this creek. The horse that was kicked by the mare is still very lame.
Wind south-east.
Monday, 18th June, Bishop Creek. Started at 9.30 on a bearing of 18
degrees, through a plain of alternate grass, scrub, and spinifex, and at
five miles passed a number of isolated hills close together, composed of
large masses of ironstone, quartz, and a hard brown rock, very irregular,
and all sorts of shapes; the stones seem as if they had undergone the
action of fire. We then proceeded through some very bad spinifex,
dark-coloured, long, hard and dry; we could scarcely get the horses to
face it. We then came upon a grassy plain, and at ten miles struck a gum
creek coming from the west of north-west, and running (at this place)
east-north-east; followed it and found an abundance of water in long deep
holes, with shells of the crab fish lying on the banks. The water is
upwards of a mile in length; the creek then spreads out over a grassy
plain with scrub and gum-trees, and is joined by the other creeks coming
from the McDouall range. I thought it advisable to camp here for the rest
of the day, as a further journey would be a risk for the horse that is
lame, and I do not wish to lose any more; as it is, I am afraid he will
not be able to cross Short range, which I hope to do in a few hours.
Natives about. Splendid grass on this plain, and on the banks of the
creek, which I have named Phillips Creek, after John Phillips, Esquire,
J.P., of Kanyaka. Wind variable.
Tuesday, 19th June, Phillips Creek. Started at 8 o'clock on the same
bearing, 18 degrees. We first passed through a well-grassed plain with a
little scrub, then again through hard spinifex to the range. At one mile
crossed another gum creek with water in it, coming from Short range. At
four miles reached the top of the spur of the range; and at seven miles,
the top of the range. About two miles to the east, the range seems to
terminate in a gum plain, a spur from the McDouall range running on the
other side of the plain, and crossing our line a few miles further on.
Short range here is composed of quartz, ironstone, and red granite, with
a little limestone. Descended into the plain, and at ten miles came upon
another gum creek, spreading over a grassy plain, but could find no
water. At thirteen miles came upon some dry swamps with a number of birds
about them. At fourteen miles reached the top of the next range. From
this the appearance of the country, on this course, is evidently very
scrubby. On a bearing of 55 degrees, in the far distance, is the
termination of another range. I do not like facing the scrub again so
soon after my late loss, and with my horses not yet recovered. I shall
return to the swamps and look for water. If I find any, I shall start in
the morning for the end of the distant range. My lame horse is unable to
do more to-day; crossing the range has been very hard upon him. Returned
to the swamps and found a fine pond of water. Camped. The water is
derived from the creek that we passed in the middle of the day. I have
named these ponds after Kekwick, in token of the zeal and activity he has
displayed during the expedition.
Wednesday, 20th June, Kekwick Ponds. Saddled at sunrise, and proceeded to
the top of the low range, from which I turned back yesterday, and changed
my course to 56 degrees to the northernmost point of the distant hills,
through a plain of alternate grass and spinifex. At 3 o'clock struck the
William Creek again, with splendid grass on its banks. It ran nearly our
course for about three miles, and then turned to the east. We then
entered the same sort of scrub as that in which I lost my horses; this
continued until we reached the hills, which we did in about eighteen
miles. From this we can see a range to the south-south-east. About ten
miles off there is a large lake, with red sand hills on the east side. I
cannot see the extent of it, the hills that I am now on being so low;
they are composed of granite, and run north and south. To the north and
north-east is another lake, about the same distance, to which I shall go
on a course of 32 degrees 30 minutes. On the north side of this one there
are also sand hills with scrub. For two miles after leaving the hills we
passed through a soft, sandy, scrubby country and spinifex. It then
became harder, with grass and spinifex alternately. At four miles from
the hills we camped without water. My horses have not recovered from
their last trial, and seem to be very tired to-night, although to-day's
journey was not a long one, but it has been very hot, and the scrub thick
and difficult to get through.
Thursday, 21st June, Scrub. The horses having gone back on the track, we
did not get a start until 8.30--course, 32 degrees 30 minutes to a high
hill on the other side of the lake, passing through a thick scrub of
cork-tree and gums, with spinifex and grass. At seven miles came upon
what I thought was the lake, but it turns out to be a large plain of rich
alluvial soil covered with dry grass, which gave it the appearance of a
lake. It was three miles across to the top of the hill; no water-course
through, nor any water to be seen. The hills on the north side are
composed of ironstone and granite, and, from the distance, looked very
much like sand hills. From the top of the hill I can see the plain
extending a little to the west of north, but I cannot see far for the
mirage. To the north-north-east is another plain of the same description,
but much smaller, about a mile and a half broad, and nearly circular. To
the north-east is another very extensive one; its dimensions I cannot
see. I seem to have got into the land of grassy plains and low stony
hills. I wish my horses had had water last night or yesterday. They seem
to be very much in want of it. I must devote the rest of this day to a
search for it. I shall now direct my course for the south part of the
plain that I have just crossed; it seems to be the lowest part, and the
flight of the birds is directed that way. Searched all round, but can
find no water; so I must return to Kekwick Ponds. The day is extremely
hot, and my horses cannot stand two more nights without water. Would that
they had more endurance! It is dreadful to have to turn back almost at
the threshold of success. I cannot be far from the dip of the country to
the Gulf. Returned by another course to where I camped last night, but
still no water. I would fain try the plain to the south, but I dare not
risk the loss of more horses. Proceeded to the low range that I crossed
yesterday; examined round it, but cannot find any water. Camped. Two of
the horses very much done up. I must go back through that nasty scrub
again.
Friday, 22nd June, Under the West Low Range. Started at sunrise for the
ponds, and at 1.30 arrived; the horses being very much exhausted. I am
glad I did not remain another night without water; three of them are
completely done up, and it has been with difficulty that we have got them
here. Wind south-west.
Saturday, 23rd June, Kekwick Ponds. Resting horses. About 1 o'clock we
were visited by two natives, who presented us with four opossums and a
number of small birds and parrots. They were much frightened at first,
but after a short time became very bold, and, coming to our camp, wanted
to steal everything they could lay their fingers on. I caught one
concealing the rasp that is used in shoeing the horses under the netting
he had round his waist, and was obliged to take it from him by force. The
canteens they seemed determined to have, and it was with difficulty we
could get them from them. They wished to pry into everything, until I
lost all patience and ordered them off. In about half an hour two other
young men approached the camp. Thinking they might be in want of water,
and afraid to come to it on account of the horses, I sent Ben with a tin
dishful, which they drank. They were very young men, and too much
frightened to come any nearer. About an hour before sundown, one of the
first that had come, returned, bringing with him three others, two of
whom were young, tall, powerful, well made, and good-looking, and as fine
specimens of the native as I have yet seen. On their heads they had a
neatly-fitting hat or helmet close to the brow, and rising straight up to
a rounded peak, three or four inches above the head and gradually
becoming narrower towards the back part. The outside was net-work; the
inside was composed of feathers very tightly bound together with cord
until it was as hard as a piece of wood; it may be used as a protection
from the sun, or as armour for the battle-field. One of them had a great
many scars upon him, and seemed to be a leading man. Only two had helmets
on, the others had pieces of netting bound round their foreheads. One was
an old man, and seemed to be the father of these two fine young men. He
was very talkative, but I could make nothing of him. I have endeavoured,
by signs, to get information from him as to where the next water is, but
we cannot understand each other. After some time, and having conferred
with his two sons, he turned round, and surprised me by giving me one of
the Masonic signs. I looked at him steadily; he repeated it, and so did
his two sons. I then returned it, which seemed to please them much, the
old man patting me on the shoulder and stroking down my beard. They then
took their departure, making friendly signs until they were out of sight.
We enjoyed a good supper from the opossums, which we have not had for
many a day. The men are complaining of weakness from the want of
sufficient nourishment. I find the quantity of rations is not enough;
five pounds of flour per week is too little for many weeks together. It
may do very well for a month or so, but when it comes to the length of
time we have been out, we all feel it very much; and the dried meat that
I brought with me being very young, it has not half the strength in it
that old meat has.
Sunday, 24th June, Kekwick Ponds. Our black friends have not made their
appearance to-day.
Monday, 25th June, Kekwick Ponds. Started again on a bearing of 345
degrees to some very distant hills, to see if I can get into the face of
the country to the Gulf of Carpentaria. At two miles crossed a large gum
creek (with long beds of concrete ironstone), which I have named Hayward
Creek, after Frederick Hayward, Esquire. The banks are beautifully
grassed, and extend for four miles on the north side. At fourteen miles
struck a gum creek with large sheets of water in which were plenty of
ducks, native companions, black shags, cranes, and other birds. Camped
here for the remainder of the day. The course of the creek at this point
is to the north of east, and coming from the north of west, apparently
from the range, which is distant about ten miles. It very much resembles
Chambers Creek. The ponds (in which we found some small fish) are about
eighty yards broad, and about three quarters of a mile long, having large
masses of concrete ironstone at both ends, separating the one pond from
the other; large gum-trees being in the ponds. Wind north-west. Very hot.
Tuesday, 26th June, Large Gum Creek, with Sheets of Water. I have
resolved to follow this creek down to-day, and, if the water continues,
to follow it out. Started on a course 77 degrees, and at six miles
crossed the creek, which is running a little more to the north. There are
long sheets of water all the way down to this, the banks in some places
being steep, with the lower part formed of concrete, and the upper red
sandy soil, which gives me a bad opinion of it for water, if the concrete
ceases. Here we saw some blacks; they would not come near us, but walked
off as fast as they could. From the top of the rise we saw where they
were camped, on the banks of a large sheet of water; we passed on without
taking any more notice of them, and at nine miles, not seeing any
appearance of the creek, I changed my course to 25 degrees. At three
quarters of a mile cut it again, but without water in it; it is much
narrower and deeper, having sandy banks and bed. Changed again to 77
degrees, the creek frequently crossing our course, and at fifteen miles
saw there was no hope of obtaining water. The country is becoming more
sandy, and is thickly covered with spinifex and scrub. We crossed down to
the banks of the creek; no rising ground visible. I must keep closer to
the hills, and, as the day has been very hot, I shall return and camp at
nine miles from our last camp, if there is water; if not, I shall have to
camp a short way above where we saw the natives this morning. I do not
wish to get too near them, or to annoy them in any way. We could find no
water below where they were camped; I therefore pushed on to get above
them before dark. At half-past one o'clock, about three miles from the
creek, we saw where they had been examining our tracks, and as we
approached the creek their tracks became very numerous on ours. When we
arrived on the top of the rise, where we had previously seen their camp
and fires, we could now see nothing of them, neither smoke, fires, nor
anything else: it was then nearly dark. I concluded they had left in
consequence of having seen us pass in the morning, as natives in general
do. I was moving on to the place where we crossed the creek in the
morning, when suddenly from behind some scrub which we had just entered,
up started three tall powerful fellows fully armed, having a number of
boomerangs, waddies, and spears. Their distance from us was about two
hundred yards. It being so nearly dark, and the scrub we were then in
placing us at a disadvantage, I wished to pass without taking any notice
of them, but such was not their intention, for they continued to approach
us, calling out and making all sorts of gestures apparently of defiance.
I then faced them, making every sign of friendship I could think of. They
seemed to be in a great fury, moving their boomerangs above their head,
bawling at the top of their voices, and performing some sort of a dance.
They were now joined by more of their tribe, so that in a few minutes
their numbers had increased to upwards of thirty; every bush seemed to
produce a man. Putting the horses on towards the creek, and placing
ourselves between them and the natives, I told my men to get their guns
ready, for I could see they were determined upon mischief. They paid no
regard to all the signs of friendship I kept constantly making, but were
still gradually approaching nearer and nearer to us. I felt very
unwilling to fire upon them, and still continued making signs of peace
and friendship, but all to no purpose. Their leader, an old man, who was
in advance, made signs with his boomerang, which we took as a signal for
us to be off. They were, however, intended as tokens of defiance, for I
had no sooner turned my horse's head to comply with what I thought were
their wishes, than we received a shower of boomerangs, accompanied by a
fearful yell; they then set fire to the grass, and commenced jumping,
dancing, yelling, and throwing their arms into all sorts of postures,
like so many fiends. In addition to the thirty that already confronted
us, I could now see many others getting up from behind the bushes. Still
I felt unwilling to fire upon them, and tried again to make them
understand that we wished to do them no harm. Having now approached
within about forty yards of us, they made another charge, and threw their
boomerangs, which came whistling and whizzing past our ears, one of them
striking my horse. I then gave orders to fire, which stayed their mad
career for a little. Our pack-horses, which were on before us, took
fright when they heard the firing and fearful yelling, and made off for
the creek. Seeing some of the blacks running from bush to bush, with the
intention of cutting us off from our horses, while those in front were
still yelling, throwing their boomerangs, and coming nearer to us, we
gave them another reception, and I sent Ben after the horses to drive
them on to a more favourable place, while Kekwick and I remained to cover
our rear. We soon got in advance of those who were endeavouring to cut us
off, but they still kept following, though beyond the reach of our guns,
the fearful yelling still continuing from more numerous voices, and fires
springing up in every direction. It being now quite dark, with the
country scrubby, and our enemies bold and daring, we could be easily
surrounded and destroyed by such determined fellows as they have shown
themselves to be. Seeing there is no hope with such fearful odds (ten to
one at least) against us, and knowing all the disadvantages under which
we labour, I very unwillingly make up my mind to push on to our last
night's camp. We have done so, and now I have had a little time to
consider the matter over I do not think it prudent to remain here
to-night; I shall therefore continue on until I reach the open grassy
plain or gum creek. They are still following us up; I only wish that I
had four more men, for my party is so small that we can only fall back
and act on the defensive. If I were to stand and fight them (which I wish
I could) our horses must remain unprotected, and we, in all probability,
should be cut off from them. Our enemies seem to be aiming at that, and
to prevent our advance up the creek; by this time they have found out
their mistake, as we did not go a step out of our course for them.
Arrived at Hayward Creek at 11 o'clock at night.