to rights, and started towards the high bluff. I find that my poor little
mare, Polly, has got staked in the fetlock-joint, and is nearly dead
lame; but I must proceed. At six miles and a half we again crossed the
Hugh, and at another mile found it coming through the range, which is a
double one. The south range is red sandstone, the next is hard white
stone, and also red sandstone, with a few hills of ironstone; a
well-grassed valley lying between. The two gorges are rocky, and in some
places perpendicular, with some gum-trees growing on the sides. The
cucumber plant thrives here in great quantities, and water is abundant.
At twelve miles we got through both the gorges of the range, which I have
named the Waterhouse Range, after the Honourable the Colonial Secretary.
The country between last night's camp and the range is a red sandy soil,
with a few sand hills, on which is growing the spinifex, but the valleys
between are broad and beautifully grassed. At fifteen miles again crossed
the Hugh, coming from the east, with splendid gum-trees of every size
lining the banks. The pine was also met with here for the first time.
There is a magnificent hole of water here, long and deep, with rushes
growing round it. I think it is a spring; the water seems to come from
below a large bed of conglomerate quartz. I should say it was permanent.
Black cockatoos and other birds abound here, and there are numbers of
native tracks all about. I hoped to-day to have gained the top of the
bluff, which is still seven or eight miles off, and appears to be so very
rough that I anticipate a deal of difficulty in crossing it. I am forced
to halt at this bend of the creek, in consequence of the little mare
becoming so lame that she is unable to proceed further to-day. Our hands
are very bad from being torn by the scrub, and the flies are a perfect
torment. Indications of scurvy are beginning to show themselves upon us.
Wind west; cool night.
Thursday 12th April, The Hugh. Started for the bluff. At eight miles we
again struck the creek coming from the west, and several other gum creeks
coming from the range and joining it. We have now entered the lower hills
of the range. Again have we travelled through a splendid country for
grass, but as we approached the creek it became a little stony. At twelve
miles we found a number of springs in the range. Here I obtained an
observation of the sun. As we approached near the bluff, our route became
very difficult; we could not get up the creek for precipices, and were
obliged to turn in every direction. About two miles from where I obtained
the observation, we arrived with great difficulty at the foot of the
bluff; it has taken us all the afternoon. I expected to have gone to the
top of it to-night, but it is too late. It will take half a day, it is so
high and rough. We are camped at a good spring, where I have found a very
remarkable palm-tree, with light-green fronds ten feet long, having small
leaves a quarter of an inch in breadth, and about eight inches in length,
and a quarter of an inch apart, growing from each side, and coming to a
sharp point. They spread out like the top of the grass-tree, and the
fruit has a large kernel about the size of an egg, with a hard shell; the
inside has the taste of a cocoa-nut, but when roasted is like a potato.
Here we have also the india-rubber tree, the cork-tree, and several new
plants. This is the only real range that I have met with since leaving
the Flinders range. I have named it the McDonnell Range, after his
Excellency the Governor-in-Chief of South Australia, as a token of my
gratitude for his kindness to me on many occasions. The east bluff I have
named Brinkley Bluff, after Captain Brinkley, of Adelaide, and the west
one I have named Hanson Bluff, after the Honourable R. Hanson, of
Adelaide. The range is composed of gneiss rock and quartz.
Friday, 13th April, Brinkley Bluff, McDonnell Range. At sunrise I
ascended the bluff, which is the most difficult hill I have ever climbed;
it took me an hour and a half to reach the top. It is very high, and is
composed principally of igneous rock, with a little ironstone, much the
same as the ranges down the country. On reaching the top, I was
disappointed; the view was not so good as I expected, in consequence of
the morning being so very hazy. I have, however, been enabled to decide
what course to take. To the south-west the Waterhouse and James ranges
seem to join. At west-south-west they are hidden by one of the spurs of
the McDonnell range. To the north-west the view is intercepted by another
point of this range, on which is a high peak, which I have named Mount
Hay, after the Honourable Alexander Hay, the Commissioner of Crown Lands.
About five miles to the north are numerous small spurs, beyond which
there is an extensive wooded or scrubby plain; and beyond that, in the
far distance, is another range, broken by a high conical hill, bearing
about west-north-west, to which I will go, after getting through the
range. To the north-east is the end of another range coming from the
south. On this, which I have named Strangway Range, after the Honourable
the Attorney-General, is another high hill. Beyond is a luminous, hazy
appearance, as if it proceeded from a large body of water. A little more
to the east there are three high hills; the middle one, which I should
think is upwards of thirty miles from us, is the highest, and is bluff at
both ends; it seems to be connected with Strangway range. To the east is
a complete mass of ranges, with the same luminous appearance behind them.
I had a terrible job in getting down the bluff; one false step and I
should have been dashed to pieces in the abyss below; I was thankful when
I arrived safely at the foot. I find that I have taken the wrong creek to
get through the bluff. The Hugh still comes in that way, but more to the
westward. Started at 10 o'clock; the hills very bad to get over; wind
easterly. Camped at sundown on the creek; there is an abundance of water,
which apparently is permanent, from the number of rushes growing all
about it. The feed is splendid. There are a number of fresh native
tracks.
Saturday, 14th April, McDonnell Range. Started at 8 o'clock to follow the
creek, as it seems to be the best way of getting through the other
ranges; but, as it comes too much from the east, I must leave it, and get
through at some of the low hills further down. This we at last contrived
to do after a severe struggle. It has taken us the whole day to come
about five miles. We are now camped, north of the bluff, at a gorge, in
which there is a good spring of water; the creeks now run north from the
range.
Sunday, 15th April, The North Gorge of McDonnell Range. I ascended the
high hill on the east side of the gorge; the atmosphere being much
clearer, I got a better view of the country. To the north-west, between
the McDonnell range and the conical hill north-north-west, is a large
plain, apparently scrub; no hills on the horizon, but a light shade in
the far distance; the conical hill bears 340 degrees from this; it
appears to be high. From the foot of this, for about five miles, is an
open grassy country, with a few small patches of bushes. A number of gum
creeks come from the ranges, and seem to empty themselves in the plains.
The country in the ranges is as fine a pastoral hill-country as a man
would wish to possess; grass to the top of the hills, and abundance of
water through the whole of the ranges. I forgot to mention that the nut
we found on the south side of the range is not fit to eat; it caused both
men to vomit violently. I ate one, but it had no bad effect on me.
Monday, 16th April, The North Gorge of McDonnell Range. Started at 9
o'clock to cross the scrub for the distant high peak. For five miles the
plain was open and well grassed: afterwards it became thick, with mulga
bushes and other scrubs. At twenty miles we again encountered the
spinifex, which continued until we camped after dark. Distance, thirty
miles. Met with no creek or watercourse after leaving the McDonnell
ranges.
Tuesday, 17th April, In the Scrub. Got an early start, and continued
through the scrub and spinifex on the same course, 340 degrees. At three
miles passed a small stony hill, about two miles to the west of our
course. At eighteen miles saw to the west two prominent bluff hills, and
two or three small ones, about ten miles distant from us. At thirty-two
miles crossed a strong rise. There are three reap-hook hills about three
miles west, their steep side facing the south. At sundown reached the
hills. At two miles passed a small sandy gum creek, the only watercourse
we have seen between the two ranges. Followed the range to the north-west
till after dark, hoping to find a gum creek coming from the range, but
without success; nothing but rocky and sandy watercourses. Camped. The
poor horses again without water; I trust that I shall find some for them
in the morning; if not, I shall have to return to the McDonnell range.
Very little rain seems to have fallen here; the grass is all dried up.
The spinifex continues until within a mile of the range. The small gum
creek that we passed is running south-west into the scrub.
Wednesday, 18th April, Under the High Peak, Mount Freeling. At daybreak
sent Kekwick in search of water, while I ascended the high mount to see
if any could be seen from that place. To my great delight I beheld a
little in a creek on the other side of the range, bearing 113 degrees,
about a mile and a half. I find this is not quite the highest point of
the range; there is another hill, still higher, about fifteen miles
further to the north-north-west. About two miles off I can see a gum
creek looking very green, coming from the range in the direction in which
I have sent Kekwick, where I hope he will find water. The country from
west to north-east is a mass of hills and broken ranges; to the
south-west high broken ranges. To the north-north-east is another hill,
with a plain of scrub between. To the south-east scrub, with tops of
hills in the far distance. Brinkley Bluff bears 166 degrees and Mount Hay
186 degrees. Returned to the camp, and find to my great satisfaction that
Kekwick has discovered some water in the creek about two miles off. I am
very glad of it, for I am sure that some of my horses would not have
stood the journey back without it. I must not leave this range without
endeavouring to find a permanent water, as no rain seems to have fallen
to the north of us; everything is so dry, one would think it was the
middle of summer. The sun is also very hot, but the nights and mornings
are cool. Wind east. Old tracks and native camps about. The range is
composed of the same description of rocks as the McDonnell ranges, with
rather more quartz than mica. We here found new shrubs and flowers, also
a small brown pigeon with a crest. I have built a small cone of stones on
the peak, and named it Mount Freeling, after the Honourable Colonel
Freeling, Surveyor-General. The range I have called the Reynolds, after
the Honourable Thomas Reynolds, the Treasurer.
Thursday, 19th April, Mount Hugh. The horses separated during the night,
and were not found until after one o'clock. Moved to the east side of the
mount to where I had seen the water from the top. We found plenty of
water in the gum creek which is the head of the one we crossed on Tuesday
night, just before making the range. We were obliged to come a long way
round before we could get to it, the hills being all rough sharp rocks,
impassable for horses; abundance of grass with a little spinifex on the
hills. At this camp I have marked a tree "J. M.D. S."; the cone of stones
on the top of the mount bears 293 degrees. Ten miles distant in a branch
creek about half a mile to the north of this is more water; and a little
higher up, in a ledge of rocks, is a splendid reservoir of water, thirty
yards in diameter and about one hundred yards in circumference. We could
not get to the middle to try the depth, but where we tried it it was
twelve feet deep. A few yards higher up is another ledge of rocks, behind
which is a second reservoir, but smaller, having a drainage into the
former one. Native tracks about. Wind north. I have named this Anna's
Reservoir, after Mr. James Chambers' youngest daughter.
Friday, 20th April, East Side of Mount Hugh. Started to the south-east to
find a crossing place over the range; this was not an easy matter, from
the roughness of the hills; at last, however, we got over it. On the
other side we found a large gum creek with water in it, running to the
north-east. Camped. The range is well grassed, with gum creeks coming
from it, and a little mulga scrub. Here we have discovered a new tree,
whose dark-green leaf has the shape of two wide prongs; the seed or bean,
of which I have obtained a few, is of a red colour; the foliage is very
thick. The stem of the largest we have seen is about eighteen inches in
diameter. The wood is soft; when in the state of a bush it has thorns on
it like a rose. Here we have also obtained some seed of the vegetable we
have been using; we have found this vegetable most useful; it can be
eaten as a salad, boiled as a vegetable, or cooked as a fruit. We have
also some other seeds of new flowers. The bearing from this to the cone
of stones on Hugh Mount, 233 degrees 45 minutes.
Saturday, 21st April, Gum Creek, East Side of Mount Freeling. Started at
half-past seven across the scrub to another high hill. For seven miles
the scrub is open, and the land beautifully grassed. At twelve miles from
the camp we crossed another gum creek, coming from the range; as far as I
could see it ran to the north-east. After seven miles the scrub became
much thicker. We had great difficulty in getting through, from the
quantity of dead timber, which has torn our saddle-bags and clothes to
pieces. There are a number of gum-trees, and the new tree that was found
on Captain Sturt's expedition, 1844, but mulga predominates. At fourteen
miles we struck a large gum plain, but after a short time again entered
the scrub. At about twenty-two miles met another arm of the gum plains,
with large granite rocks nearly level with the surface. We found rain
water in the holes of these rocks. At thirty-two miles crossed the sandy
bed of a large gum creek divided into a number of channels; too dark to
see any water. Four miles further on, camped on a small gum creek with a
little rain water; the creeks are running to the north-east. The soil is
of a red sandy colour: the grass most abundant throughout the whole day's
journey. Occasionally we met with a few hundred yards of spinifex. Wind
south-east. Native tracks quite fresh in the scrub and plain; we also
passed several old worleys.
Sunday, 22nd April, Small Gum Creek, under Mount Stuart, Centre of
Australia. To-day I find from my observations of the sun, 111 degrees 00
minutes 30 seconds, that I am now camped in the centre of Australia. I
have marked a tree and planted the British flag there. There is a high
mount about two miles and a half to the north-north-east. I wish it had
been in the centre; but on it to-morrow I will raise a cone of stones,
and plant the flag there, and name it Central Mount Stuart. We have been
in search of permanent water to-day, but cannot find any. I hope from the
top of Central Mount Stuart to find something good to the north-west.
Wind south. Examined a large creek; can find no surface water, but got
some by scratching in the sand. It is a large creek divided into many
channels, but they are all filled with sand; splendid grass all round
this camp.
Monday, 23rd April, Centre. Took Kekwick and the flag, and went to the
top of the mount, but found it to be much higher and more difficult of
ascent than I anticipated. After a deal of labour, slips, and knocks, we
at last arrived on the top. It is quite as high as Mount Serle, if not
higher. The view to the north is over a large plain of gums, mulga, and
spinifex, with watercourses running through it. The large gum creek that
we crossed winds round this hill in a north-east direction; at about ten
miles it is joined by another. After joining they take a course more
north, and I lost sight of them in the far-distant plain. To the
north-north-east is the termination of the hills; to the north-east, east
and south-east are broken ranges, and to the north-north-west the ranges
on the west side of the plain terminate. To the north-west are broken
ranges; and to the west is a very high peak, between which and this place
to the south-west are a number of isolated hills. Built a large cone of
stones, in the centre of which I placed a pole with the British flag
nailed to it. Near the top of the cone I placed a small bottle, in which
there is a slip of paper, with our signatures to it, stating by whom it
was raised. We then gave three hearty cheers for the flag, the emblem of
civil and religious liberty, and may it be a sign to the natives that the
dawn of liberty, civilization, and Christianity is about to break upon
them. We can see no water from the top. Descended, but did not reach the
camp till after dark. This water still continues, which makes me think
there must certainly be more higher up. I have named the range John
Range, after my friend and well-wisher, John Chambers, Esquire, brother
to James Chambers, Esquire, one of the promoters of this expedition.
Tuesday, 24th April, Central Mount Stuart. Sent Kekwick in search of
water, and to examine a hill that has the appearance of having a cone of
stones upon it; meanwhile I made up my plan, and Ben mended the
saddlebags, which were in a sad mess from coming through the scrub.
Kekwick returned in the afternoon, having found water higher up the
creek. He has also found a new rose of a beautiful description, having
thorns on its branches, and a seed-vessel resembling a gherkin. It has a
sweet, strong perfume; the leaves are white, but as the flower is
withered, I am unable to describe it. The native orange-tree abounds
here. Mount Stuart is composed of hard red sandstone, covered with
spinifex, and a little scrub on the top. The white ant abounds in the
scrubs, and we even found some of their habitations near the top of Mount
Stuart.
Wednesday, 25th April, Central Mount Stuart. There is a remarkable hill
about two miles to the west, having another small hill at the north end
in the shape of a bottle; this I have named Mount Esther, at the request
of the maker of the flag. Started at 9 o'clock, on a course a little
north of west, to the high peak that I saw from the top of Mount Stuart,
which bears 272 degrees. My reason for going west is that I do not like
the appearance of the country to the north for finding water; it seems to
be sandy. From the peak I expect to find another stratum to take me up to
the north-north-west. Around the mount and on the west side, the country
is well grassed, and red sandy soil; no stones. To the north and south of
our line are several isolated hills, composed principally of granite. At
ten miles there is a quartz reef on the north side of the south hills. At
twelve miles struck a gum creek coming from the south and running to the
north; it has three channels. We found a little rain water in one, and
camped, to enable us to finish the mending of the saddle-bags. Wind east;
very cold morning and night. The large creek that flowed round Mount
Stuart is named the Hanson, after the Honourable R. Hanson, of Adelaide.
Thursday, 26th April, Gum Creek on West Course. Started at a quarter past
8 o'clock on the same course for the high peak. At two miles crossed some
low granite and quartz hills; and at four miles crossed a gum creek
running to the north with sand and gravel beds. No water. The country
then became difficult to get through, in consequence of the number of
dead mulga bushes. At ten miles the grass ceased, and spinifex took its
place, and continued to the banks of the next gum creek, which we crossed
at twenty-two miles; the bed sandy, and divided into a number of
channels, coming from the south-east, and running a little to the east of
north, but no water in them. Native tracks in its bed. On the west side
of the creek the grass again begins, and continues to the hills, where we
arrived at five minutes to 7. Camped without water. There seems to have
been very little rain here--the grass and everything else is quite dry.
Distance, thirty-eight miles.
Friday, 27th April, East Side of Mount Denison. Sent Kekwick to the
south-west to a remarkable hill which I hope may yield some water, with
orders to return immediately if he should find any nearer, so that we
might get some for the horses. I waited till past 12, but he did not
return, so I started, intending to go to the top of the mount. On getting
to the north-east side of the ranges, I liked the appearance of the
country for water, and seeing that the top of the mount was still some
distance off, and that it would make it too late to return, I set to work
myself to look for water. After an hour's search I was successful,
finding some rain water in a gum creek coming from the hills. The natives
must have been there quite recently, as their fires were still warm; and,
as I had left the camp and provisions with only one man, I hurried back,
had the horses saddled and packed, and brought them down to the water,
leaving a note for Kekwick to follow in a west-north-west direction to a
gum creek about three miles distant. Kekwick's search was also
successful; he found permanent water under the high peak to which I sent
him, and which I have named Mount Leichardt, in memory of that
unfortunate explorer, whose fate is still a mystery. I have seen no trace
of his having passed to the westward. Kekwick describes the water he has
found as abundant and beautifully clear, springing out of conglomerate
rock much resembling marble; its length is upwards of a quarter of a
mile, falling into natural basins in the solid rock, some six feet in
depth and of considerable capacity. The country round the base of the
range is covered with the most luxuriant grass and vegetation. Mount
Leichardt and the range are composed, at their base, of a soft
conglomerate rock in immense irregular masses, heaped one on the other;
the higher part where the spring appears is of the same conglomerate, but
broad and solid, having smooth faces, which makes the ascent very
difficult.
Saturday, 28th April, Gum Creek under Mount Denison. As soon as the
horses were caught I started for the top of the mount. I left my horse in
a small rocky gum creek which I thought would lead me to the foot of the
mount. At about a quarter of a mile from the mouth of the gorge, I came
upon some water in a rocky hole, followed it up, and, two hundred yards
further, was stopped by a perpendicular precipice with water trickling
over it into a large reservoir. I had now to take to the hills, which
were very rough, and after a deal of difficulty I arrived, as I thought,
at the top, but to my disappointment I had to go down a fearfully steep
gully. At it I went, and again I arrived, as I fancied, at the top, but
here again was another gully to cross, and a rise still higher. I have at
last arrived at the summit, after a deal of labour and many scratches.
This is certainly the highest mountain I have yet ascended; it has taken
me full three hours to get to the summit. The view is extensive, but not
encouraging. Central Mount Stuart bears 95 degrees. Mount Leichardt, 155
degrees 30 minutes. To the south, broken ranges with wooded plains before
them, and in the far distance, scarcely visible, appears to be a very
high mountain, a long, long way off. To the south-west the same
description of range. About thirty miles to the west is a high mount with
open country, and patches of woodland in the foreground. At the
north-west there appears to be an immense open plain with patches of
wood. To the north is another plain becoming more wooded to the
north-east. As this is the highest mountain that I have seen in Central
Australia, I have taken the liberty of naming it Mount Denison, after his
Excellency Sir William Denison, K.C.B., Governor-General. The next range
(bearing 334 degrees), being the last of the highest ones north, I have
named Mount Barkly, after his Excellency Sir Henry Barkly,
Governor-in-Chief of Victoria. When on the second highest point of this
mount, I saw a native smoke rise up in the creek below, a short distance
from where I had tied my horse. This naturally made me very anxious for
his safety, and when I descended I was rejoiced to find him safe. The
natives have been in the creek and on the mount: their tracks, which are
quite fresh, lead me to conclude that they have been running. The descent
was difficult, but I discovered a shorter route, and it has taken me two
hours to come down. Arrived at the camp at 4.30, and found all right. I
intended to have built a large cone of stones on the summit; but, when I
arrived there, I was too much exhausted to do so. I have, however,
erected a small one, placing a little paper below one of the stones, to
show that a white man has been there. I have also marked a tree "J. M.D.
S." on the creek where we are now camped. Mount Denison bears from here
249 degrees.