48 minutes. Variation, 3 degrees 20 minutes east. Mount Denison and the
surrounding hills are composed of a hard reddish-brown sandstone. About
one hundred yards from the summit is a course of conglomerate, composed
of stones from half an inch to four inches in diameter, having the
appearance of being rounded at a former period by water. From the foot to
the top of this course is about ten feet, and the breadth on the top is
about twelve feet. There is red sandstone on the summit, with three or
four pines growing. The mount and adjoining hill are covered with
spinifex, but the plain is grassed. The wind has now changed to the west,
and it is much hotter.
Monday, 30th April, Under Mount Denison. The wind changed again to the
south-east during the night, and is much colder. Started on a course, 315
degrees, across the plain towards Mount Barkly. The highest point of the
mount is eighteen miles distant from our camp on the creek. We had to
round the west side of it, finding no water until we came upon a little
in the gorge coming from the highest point. It was dark before we
arrived, so that we could not take the horses up to-night. Wind
south-east, blowing a hurricane, and very cold.
Tuesday, 1st May, North-west Side of Mount Barkly. On examining the
water, I find it is only a drainage from the rocks, and there is not more
than two gallons for each horse. I ascended the hill, but could see
nothing more than I had seen from Mount Denison. The base is composed of
a hard red sandstone, the top of quartz rock. I do not like the
appearance of the country before us. Started on a course of 335 degrees,
and at six miles and a half came upon a large gum creek divided into
numerous channels: searched it carefully, without finding any surface
water; but I discovered a native well about four feet deep, in the east
channel, close to a small hill of rocks. Cleared it out, and watered the
horses with a quart pot, which took us long after dark--each horse
drinking about ten gallons, and some of them more. Natives have been here
lately, and from the tracks they seem to be numerous. We also observed
the rose-coloured cockatoo. I have named this creek The Fisher, after Sir
James Hurtle Fisher; it runs a little east of north.
Wednesday, 2nd May, The Fisher. We did not start until 11 o'clock in
consequence of it taking a long time to water the horses. We steered for
some hills that I had seen from the top of the last two mounts. At
thirteen miles arrived at the hills, but found them low, and no
appearance of water. Changed my course west 35 degrees north to some
higher hills. At 6.30 camped in the scrub without water. The country from
Mount Denison to this is a light-red sandy soil, covered with spinifex,
with very little grass, and is nearly a dead level. In some places it is
scrubby, having a number of gum-trees, and the new tree of Captain Sturt
growing all over it. From a distance it has the appearance of a good
country, and is very deceiving; you constantly think you are coming upon
a gum creek. Wind south-east; very cold at night and morning.
Thursday, 3rd May, Spinifex and Gum Plains. Started on the same course,
west 35 degrees north, and at four miles reached the top of the hills,
which are low and composed of dark-red sandstone and quartz. The bearings
to Mount Denison, 146 degrees; Mount Barkly, 142 degrees; to another hill
west-north-west, 302 degrees, distant about ten miles, which I have named
Mount Turnbull, after the late Gavin Turnbull, Esquire, Surgeon in the
Indian Army. The morning is very hazy, and I cannot see distinctly;
besides, my eyes are again very bad. The appearance of the country all
round is that of having gum creeks everywhere. To the north there are
some more low hills. A short distance off, on a bearing of 328 degrees,
there appears to be a gum creek with something white as if it were water,
so I shall change my course. At 3.50 camped, some of my horses being
nearly done up from want of water, and having nothing to eat but
spinifex. I have now come eighteen miles, and the plain has the same
appearance now as when I first started--spinifex and gum-trees, with a
little scrub occasionally. We are expecting every moment to come upon a
gum creek, but hope is disappointed. I have not so much as seen a
water-course since I left the Fisher, and how far this country may
continue it is impossible to tell. I intended to have turned back sooner,
but I was expecting every moment to meet with a creek. It is very
alluring, and apt to lead the traveller into serious mistakes. I wish I
had turned back earlier, for I am almost afraid that I have allowed
myself to come too far. I am doubtful if all my horses will be able to
get back to water. In rainy weather this country will not retain the
water on the surface, and we have not so much as seen a clay-pan of the
smallest dimensions. The gum-trees on this plain have a smooth white
bark, and the leaves are some light-green and some dark. Most of the
trees seem very healthy; there are very few dead ones about. To-morrow
morning I must unwillingly retreat to water for my horses. There is no
chance of getting to the north-west in this direction, unless this plain
soon terminates. From what I could see there is little hope of its doing
so for a long distance.
Friday, 4th May, Gum and Spinifex Plains. At times this country is
visited by blacks, but it must be seldom, as since we left the Fisher we
have only seen the track of one, who seems to have come from the east,
and to have returned in that direction. The spinifex in many places has
been burnt, and the track of the native was peculiar--not broad and flat,
as they generally are, but long and narrow, with a deep hollow in the
foot, and the large toe projecting a good deal; the other in some
respects more like the print of a white man than of a native. Had I
crossed it the day before, I would have followed it. My horses are now
suffering too much from the want of water to allow me to do so. If I did,
and were not to find water to-night, I should lose the whole of the
horses and our own lives into the bargain. I must now retreat to Mount
Denison, which I do with great reluctance; it is losing so much time, and
my provisions are limited. Started back at 7.10 a.m., and at thirty miles
came upon a native well, with a little grass round it; the bottom was
moist. Unsaddled, and turned the horses out. Commenced clearing out the
well the best way we could, with a quart pot and a small tin dish, having
unfortunately lost our shovel in crossing the McDonnell ranges. We had
great difficulty in keeping the horses out while we cleared it. To our
great disappointment we found the water coming in very slowly. We can
only manage, in an hour and a half, to get about six gallons, which must
be the allowance for each horse, and it will take us till to-morrow
morning to water them all. One of us is required to be constantly with
them to keep them back, and that he can hardly do; some of them will get
away from him do all he can. Kekwick's horse was nearly done up before we
reached this place; also one of the others. Those nearest to the
cart-breed give in first.
Saturday, 5th May, Native Well. Got all the horses watered by 11 o'clock
a.m., and could only get about five gallons for each horse, although we
were employed the whole of the night, and got no sleep. Started for the
Fisher, and arrived at the native well at sundown. Were obliged to tie
the horses up, to keep them from getting into it. We could scarcely get
some of them as far as this, as they are quite done up. What was still
worse, we found the native well had fallen in since we left. It cannot be
helped: we must take things as they come. Commenced immediately to cut a
number of stakes, rushes, and grass, to keep the sand back, and by 3
o'clock in the morning we got them all watered, and very thankful we were
to do so. It has been, and is still, bitter cold throughout the night and
morning, the wind still coming from the south-east. We had a pot of tea,
although we could ill afford it, and lay down and got a little sleep,
completely tired and worn out with hard work and want of rest.
Sunday, 6th May, The Fisher. Got up at daybreak and went to the well, but
found that the rascals of horses had been there before us, and trodden in
one side of the well. They had as much water last night and morning as
they could drink, and the quantity that some of them drank was enormous.
I had no idea that a horse could hold so much, yet still they want more.
I shall remain here two days, put down more stakes, clear out the well,
and give them as much as they will drink. During this trying time I have
been very much pleased with the conduct of Kekwick and Ben; they have
exerted themselves to the utmost, and everything has been done with the
greatest alacrity and cheerfulness. Although they have only had two
hours' sleep during the last two nights, there has not been a single word
of dissatisfaction from either of them, which is highly gratifying to me.
It is, indeed, a great pleasure to have men that will do their work
without grumbling. Watered the horses as they came in. They do not now
drink a fourth part of what they did at first.
Monday, 7th May, The Fisher. Had a good night's rest, and felt recovered
from the past fatigue. Started for the creek on the east side of Mount
Denison, to the water at which we camped before, keeping to the north
side of Mount Barkly in search of water, but could find none. Arrived at
the creek after dark. Kekwick's horse is entirely done up; he had to get
off and lead him for two miles. Another of the horses is nearly as bad,
but he managed to get to the creek. We found the water greatly reduced,
but still enough for us.
Tuesday, 8th May, Creek East of Mount Denison. I must remain here two
days to allow the horses to recover. I am afraid if we have such another
journey, I shall have to leave some of them behind. I do not know what is
the cause of their giving in so soon; I have had horses that have
suffered three times as much privation, and yet have held out. The light
ones are all right; it is the heavy ones, of the cart-horse breed, that
feel it most. I had been keeping them up on purpose for an occasion like
this, and they all looked in first-rate condition, but the work of the
past week has made a great alteration in some of them. I suppose the
young grass is not yet strong enough for them. It is very vexing to be
thus disappointed and delayed. To think that they should fail me at the
very moment when I expected them to do their best, and after all the
trouble and loss of time I have incurred in giving them short journeys!
However, I cannot improve it by complaining, and must rest contented and
hope for the best. Wind south-east. Storm brewing.
Wednesday, 9th May, Creek East of Mount Denison. Resting horses and
putting our things in order. Wind blowing very strong from the
south-east; it has continued nearly in the same quarter since March.
Thursday, 10th May, Creek East of Mount Denison. I find that I must give
the horses another day; they have not yet recovered, and I expect we
shall have some more hard work for them. We have not quite finished
mending.
Friday, 11th May, Creek East of Mount Denison. Ben was taken very ill
during the night, and is still so bad that I am obliged to remain here
another day. Afternoon: Ben feels much better, so I shall start
to-morrow.
Saturday, 12th May, Creek East of Mount Denison. Ben is better, and the
horses look as if they can stand a little more hardship. Started at 8.20
on a bearing of 28 degrees east of north, to see if I can get on in that
direction. For fourteen miles our course was through mulga scrub and
spinifex, in some places very thick. At twenty-seven miles camped without
water. The country that we have passed over the last two days is
apparently destitute of water, even in rainy weather. I do not think the
ground would retain it a single day. Very little feed for the horses.
Sunday, 13th May, Scrub and Gum Flat. I do not like the appearance of the
country. As I can see no hope of obtaining water on this course, I shall
change to the east, in order to cut the large gum creek that I crossed on
the 26th ultimo, and, if I find water in it, to follow it out to wherever
it goes. At three miles cut a small gum creek: searched for water both up
and down, but could find none, nor any appearance of it. Still keeping my
east course, we then passed through a very thick mulga scrub, and at ten
miles struck a low range of hills, composed of quartz, with a conical
peak, which I ascended. The prospect from this is very extensive, but
disheartening, apparently the same sort of scrubby country that I have
endeavoured to break through to the north-west. The view to the north is
dismal; there are a few isolated hills, seemingly the termination of John
range, and of the same formation as this that I am now on. To
east-south-east there appears to be a creek, to which I shall now go. At
three miles I reached what I had supposed to be a creek, but it is a
small narrow gum flat which receives the drainage from this low range. We
found a hole where there had been water, but it was all gone. I have
named the peak Mount Rennie, after Major Rennie of the Indian army. In
this small flat we shot a new macaw, which I shall carry with me, and
preserve the skin, if we get to water to-night. The front part of the
neck and underneath the wings is of a beautiful crimson hue, the back is
of a light lead colour, the tail square, the beak smaller than a
cockatoo's, and the crest the same as a macaw's. After leaving this flat,
we passed through some scrub, and came upon another of the same
description. Here I narrowly escaped being killed. My attention being
engaged looking for water, my horse took fright at a wallaby, and rushed
into some scrub, which pulled me from the saddle, my foot and the staff
that I carry for placing my compass on catching in the stirrup-iron.
Finding that he was dragging me, he commenced kicking at a fearful rate;
he struck me on the shoulder joint, knocked my hat off, and grazed my
forehead. I soon got clear, but found the kick on my shoulder very
painful. Mounted again, and at seven miles we came upon some more low
hills with another prominent peak of a dark-red sandstone. This I have
named Mount Peake, after E.J. Peake, Esquire, of Adelaide. I now find
that the gum creek which I crossed between Central Mount Stuart and Mount
Denison runs out and forms the gum plains we have just passed. No hope of
water. I must now bear in for the centre to get it. Passed through a very
thick, nasty mulga scrub for five miles, and camped again without water
under some low stony hills. I feel the effects of my accident very much.
Monday, 14th May, Stony Hills, Mulga Scrub. Feel very stiff and ill.
Started at daylight, and passed through three belts of thick mulga scrub,
between which there were low stony hills. At three miles passed a small
gum creek, emptying itself into the scrub. At seventeen miles passed
another, doing the same; at twenty miles another, and at twenty-four
miles a third, under the hills north-west of Central Mount Stuart. This
has a very remarkable hill at the north-west, in the shape of a large
bottle with a long neck. We have had the greatest difficulty in getting
all our horses to the water; three of them are very bad; two have been
down a dozen times during the journey to-day. On approaching the range,
we passed through some large patches of kangaroo grass, growing very
thickly, and reaching to my shoulder when in the saddle.
Tuesday, 15th May, Centre. The horses look very bad to-day; I shall
therefore give them three or four days' rest. It is very vexing, but it
cannot be helped. The water here will last about ten days. I shall cause
another search for more to be made; I myself am too unwell to assist.
Yesterday I rode in the greatest pain from the effects of my fall, and it
was with great difficulty that I was able to sit in the saddle until we
reached here. Scurvy also has taken a very serious hold of me; my hands
are a complete mass of sores that will not heal, but, when I remain for
two or three days in some place where I can get them well washed, they
are much better; if not, they are worse than ever, and I am rendered
nearly helpless. My mouth and gums are now so bad that I am obliged to
eat flour and water boiled. The pains in my limbs and muscles are almost
insufferable. Kekwick is also suffering from bad hands, but, as yet, has
no other symptoms. I really hope and trust that it will not be the cause
of my having to turn back. I suffered dreadfully during the past night.
This afternoon the wind has changed to the west--the first time since
March; a few clouds are coming up in that direction.
Wednesday, 16th May, Centre. I despatched Kekwick at daybreak in search
of permanent water, with orders to devote the whole of two days to that
purpose. I must now do everything that is in my power to break this
barrier that prevents me from getting to the north. If I could only get
one hundred and twenty miles from this, I think there would be a chance
of reaching the coast. I wish the horses could endure the want of water a
day or two longer, but I fear they cannot; this last journey has tried
them to their utmost. Two of them look very wretched to-day, and will
with difficulty get over it; one I scarcely think will do so. I should
not have been afraid to have risked two more days with five of them. If
they had been all like these five, I should have tried to the north-west
a degree and back again without water. I have been suffering dreadfully
during the past three weeks from pains in the muscles, caused by the
scurvy, but the last two nights they have been most excruciating. Violent
pains darted at intervals through my whole body. My powers of endurance
were so severely tested, that, last night, I almost wished that death
would come and relieve me from my fearful torture. I am so very weak that
I must with patience abide my time, and trust in the Almighty. This
morning I feel a little easier; the medicines I brought with me are all
bad, and have no effect. The wind still from the north-west, with a few
light clouds. Towards sundown the wind has changed to the south-west;
heavy clouds coming from the north-west.
Thursday, 17th May, Centre. Wind from the south; the heavy clouds
continued until sunrise, and then cleared off. I fully expected some
rain, but was disappointed. I have again had another dreadful night of
suffering; I had, however, about two hours' sleep, which, as it was the
only sleep I have had for the last three nights, was a great boon. This
morning I observe that the muscles of my limbs are changing from
yellow-green to black; my mouth is getting worse, and it is with
difficulty that I can swallow anything. I am determined not to give in; I
shall move about as long as I am able. I only wish the horses had been
all right, and then I should not have stayed here so long. Kekwick
returned at 3 o'clock, and reported having found water in the Hanson,
about fifteen miles from Central Mount Stuart, but only a small supply.
Beyond that the creek divides into two, one running north and the other
east, but he could see no more water further down. He also saw two
natives, armed with long spears, about three hundred yards off; they did
not observe him, and he thought it most prudent not to show himself, but
to remain behind a thick bush until they were gone. In this instance I
regret his caution, for I am anxious to see or hear what is the
appearance of the Central natives. Wind variable, with heavy clouds from
north-west.
Friday, 18th May, Centre. I have again had a very bad night, and feel
unable to move to-day. Wind the same.
Saturday, 19th May, Centre. I had a few hours' sleep last night, which
has been of great benefit to me. I shall attempt to move down to the
water in the Hanson. Arrived there about 1.30 completely done up from the
motion of the horse. The water is a few inches below the surface in the
sand. East side of Mount Stuart bearing 250 degrees, about ten miles
distant. I do not think the water is permanent.
Sunday, 20th May, The Hanson. Another dreadful night for me. Wind and
clouds still coming from the north-west, but no rain.
Monday, 21st May, The Hanson. Unable to move; very ill indeed. When shall
I get relief from this dreadful state?
Tuesday, 22nd May, The Hanson. I got a little sleep last night, and feel
a great deal easier this morning, and shall try my horse back again. I
shall now steer north-east to a range of hills that I saw from the top of
Central Mount Stuart, and hope from these to obtain an entrance to the
north-west or north-east. I also hope to cut the creek that carries off
the surplus water from all the creeks which I have passed since March. It
must go somewhere, for it is difficult to believe that those numerous
bodies of water can be consumed by evaporation. Started on a bearing of
48 degrees, crossed the Hanson, running a little on our right; at six
miles crossed it again, running more to the north for two miles further.
We crossed four more of its courses, all running in the same direction.
The most easterly one is spread over a large salt-creek valley, and forms
a lagoon at the foot of some sand ridges, the highest of which is ten
miles and a half from our last camp. On the east side of it there is a
large lagoon, five miles long by one mile and a half broad, in which
water has lately been, but it is now dry. We then proceeded through a
little scrub, with splendid grass, and at twelve miles cut a small gum
creek, coming from the range. We saw a number of birds about, and there
were tracks of natives, quite fresh, in the creek. Sent Kekwick down it
to see if there were water, while I went up and examined it. This is the
large gum plain that we met with the day we made the Centre; it is
completely covered with grass. Kekwick ran the creek out. At about two
miles he observed a little water in the creek, where the natives had been
digging. He also came upon two of them, and two little children. They did
not observe him until he was within fifty yards, when they stood for a
few minutes paralysed with astonishment; then, snatching up the children,
ran off as quickly as their legs could carry them. They did not utter a
sound, although he called to them. He remarked that they had no hair on
their heads, or it was as short as if it had been burned off close. I
wish I had seen them; I should have overtaken them and seen if it were a
fact that the hair was burnt. It is reported in Adelaide that there are
natives in the interior without hair on their bodies. At fourteen miles
we again struck the creek, and found plenty of water in it. It winds all
over the plain in every direction. Camped for the night very much done
up. I could hardly sit in my saddle for this short distance. Wind
north-west.