the Neale here; the banks were too boggy and steep. We therefore followed
it round on a west course for three miles, and found that it came a
little more from the north. Changed to 290 degrees, after trying in vain
to cross the creek at this point. At about four or five miles
south-south-west from this point there are two high peaks of a low range.
The higher one I have named Mount Ben, and the range Head's Range; its
general bearing is north-west to opposite this point; it turns then more
to the west. I can see another spur further to the west, trending
north-west. At four miles and a half after leaving we found a ford, and
got the horses across all safe. I then changed to the north-west again,
through a scrubby country--mulga, acacia, hakea, salt bush, and numerous
others, with a plentiful supply of grass. The soil is of a red sandy
nature, very loose, and does not retain water on the surface. We had
great difficulty in getting through, many places being so very thick with
dead mulga. We have seen no water since we left the creek. Distance,
eighteen miles. I was obliged to camp without water for ourselves. As we
crossed the Neale we saw fish in it of a good size, about eight inches
long, from which I should say that the water is permanent. I shall have
to run to the west to-morrow, for there is no appearance of this scrubby
country terminating. I must have a whole day of it.
Sunday, 25th March, Mulga Scrub. I can see no termination, on this
course, to this thick scrub. I can scarcely see one hundred yards before
me. I shall therefore bear to the west, cut the Neale River, and see what
sort of country is in that direction. At ten miles made it; the water
still running, but not so rapidly. The gum-trees still existed in its
bed, and there were large pools of water on the side courses. We had the
same thick scrub to within a quarter of a mile of the creek, where we met
a line of red sand hills covered with a spinifex. The range on the
south-west side of the creek seemed to terminate here, and become low
table land, apparently covered with a thick scrub, the creek coming more
from the north. I did not like the appearance of the spinifex, an
indication of desert to the westward. Camped on the creek. Wind
north-west; heavy clouds from the same direction.
Monday, 26th March, The Neale River West. I am obliged to remain here
to-day to repair damages done to the packs and bags, which have been torn
all to pieces; it will take the whole of the day to put them in order. We
have seen very few signs of natives visiting this part of the country. I
shall go north to-morrow and try to get through this scrub. Wind south,
sky overcast with heavy clouds; looks very like rain.
Tuesday, 27th March, West Neales. Rained very heavily during the night,
and is still doing so, but less copiously. About noon it cleared up a
little. I have sent Kekwick to get a notion of the country on the other
side of the low range, while I endeavour to obtain an observation of the
sun. The range is scrubby, composed of a light-coloured and dark-red
conglomerate volcanic rock, easily broken. The view from it is not
extensive. At a mile from the creek the sand ceases, and stony ground
succeeds up to the range. Feed excellent south-west from the camp. To the
eastward rugged hills, apparently with fine open grass and forest lands.
Numerous rows of water holes visible. To the south-east, country more
open. To the south-south-east and south still the same good country. From
south to west the same; hills to the west from five to eight miles
distant. View from another hill north-west two miles and a half. The
hills on the west still continue towards the north-west, but become
lower. Country scrubby, with occasional patches of open grass land. Creek
coming in from north-north-west. From north-west to north-north-east
mulga scrub. From north-north-east to east low range in the distance,
like table land. Too cloudy to take an observation; occasional showers
during the day. Wind south-south-east; still looking very black.
Repairing my saddles; some of my horses are getting bad backs.
Wednesday, 28th March, West Neale River. Started on a north course to get
through the mulga scrub. At ten miles could see the range to the
north-east. The scrubby land now became sand hills; I could see no high
ground on ahead, the scrub becoming thicker; it seemed to be a country
similar to that I passed through on my south-east course (first journey),
and I think is a continuation of it. I therefore changed my course to the
north-east range, bearing 35 degrees. After five miles through the same
description of country, mulga scrub with plenty of grass, we arrived at
water, where three creeks join, one from the south-west, one
west-north-west, and the other from about north-west. The water was still
running in the one from the west-north-west with large long water holes;
also water holes in the other two; gum-trees in the creek. I suppose this
to be the Frew; excellent feed on the banks of the creek up to the range,
which is stony. I ascended the table range in order to have a view of the
country round. To this point the range comes from east-south-east, but
here it takes a turn to the east of north, all flat-topped and stony,
with mulga bushes on the top and sides; the rocks are of a light, flinty
nature. At about six miles north the country seems to be open and stony.
That country I shall steer for to-morrow. To the north-east is the range,
but it seems to drop into low table land; distant about fifteen miles. To
the north-west and west is the thick mulga, scrubby country. There are
numerous tracks of natives in the different creeks, quite fresh,
apparently made to-day. Wind south-east; clouds.
Thursday, 29th March, The Frew. Started on a north course. At one mile,
after crossing a stony hill with mulga, we suddenly came upon the creek
again; it winds round the hill. Here another branch joins it from the
north, the other coming from the east of north. Along the base of the
range there were very large water holes in both branches. The natives had
evidently camped here last night; their fires were still alight; they
seemed only just to have left. From the numerous fires I should think
there had been a great number of natives here. All round about in every
direction were numerous tracks. We also observed a number of winter
habitations on the banks of the creek; also a large native grave,
composed of sand, earth, wood, and stones. It was of a circular form,
about four feet and a half high, and twenty to twenty-four yards in
circumference. The mulga continued for about six miles; but at three
miles we again crossed the north branch of the creek, coming now from the
north-west. The mulga was not thick except on the top of the rises, where
splendid grass was growing all through it. We now came upon the open
stony country, with a few mulga creeks. There was a little salt bush, but
an immense quantity of green grass, growing about a foot high, which gave
to the country a beautiful appearance. It seemed to be the same all round
as far as I could see. At fourteen miles we struck the other branch,
where it joined, with splendid reaches of water, to the main one, which
now came from the west of north, and continued to where our line cut the
east branch. This seems to be the place where it takes its rise. Camped
for the night. The whole of the country that we have travelled through
to-day is the best for grass that I have ever gone through. I have
nowhere seen its equal. From the number of natives, from there being
winter and summer habitations, and from the native grave, I am led to
conclude the water there is permanent. The gum-trees are large. I saw
kangaroo-tracks.
Friday, 30th March, Small Branch of The Frew. Course north. At two miles
and a half changed to 332 degrees to a distant hill, apparently a range
of flat-topped hills. At sixteen miles crossed a large gum creek running
to the south of east; it spreads out over a flat between rough hills of
half a mile wide. The bed is very sandy; it will not retain water long.
On the surface it very much resembles the Douglas, but is broader, and
the gum-trees much larger. There were some rushes growing in its bed. I
have named it the Ross. We then ascended the low range for which I had
been steering. Four miles from the creek it is rough and stony, composed
of igneous rock, with scrub, mulga, and plenty of grass quite to the top.
To continue this course would lead me again into the mulga scrub, where I
do not want to get if I can help it. It is far worse than guiding a
vessel at sea; the compass requires to be constantly in hand. I again
changed to the north, which appears to be open in the distance. I could
see another range of flat-topped hills. After crossing over several small
spurs coming from the range, and a number of small creeks, volcanic, and
stony, we struck another large gum creek coming from the south of west,
and running to the south-east. It was a fine creek. These courses of
water spread over a grassy plain a mile wide; the water holes were long
and deep, with numerous plants growing on their banks, indicating
permanent water. The wild oats on the bank of the creek were four feet
high. The country gone over to-day, although stony, was completely
covered with grass and salt bush; it was even better than that passed
yesterday. Some of the grass resembled the drake, some the wild wheat,
and some rye--the same as discovered by Captain Sturt. There is a light
shade over the horizon from south-east to north-west, indicating the
presence of a lake in that direction. I have named it after my friend Mr.
Stevenson. There are small fish in the holes of this creek, and mussel
shells, also crabs about two inches by one inch and a half.
Saturday, 31st March, The Stevenson. I am obliged to remain here to-day;
my horses require shoeing. The country cuts up the shoes very much.
Sunday, 1st April, The Stevenson. I find to-day that my right eye, from
the long continuation of bad eyes, is now become useless to me for taking
observations. I now see two suns instead of one, which has led me into an
error of a few miles. I trust to goodness my other eye will not become
the same; as long as it remains good, I can do. Wind east; cool. Heavy
clouds.
Monday, 2nd April, The Stevenson. Started at 8 o'clock; course 355
degrees to distant hills. At six miles we struck a gum creek with water
in it, but not permanent. At ten miles we crossed another, running
between rugged hills; a little water coming from the west and running
east-south-east through a mass of hills. At twelve miles crossed a valley
a quarter of a mile broad, through which a gum creek runs, with an
immense quantity of drift timber lying on its banks. At twenty miles
arrived at the first part of the range, and at twenty-eight miles camped
on a gum creek running east and coming from the south of west. The first
three miles of to-day's journey were over good country; it then became
rather scrubby, with numerous small creeks and valleys running to the
east. Plenty of grass and salt-bush, with gravel, ironstone, and lime on
the surface. At a mile before we made the rugged creek the ironstone
became less, and a hard white stone took its place, and continued to the
range, on which it is also found. Gypsum, chalk, ironstone, quartz, and
other stones, are the chief materials of which it and the other hills are
composed. There are also a few of a hard red sandstone. The range is
broken, and running nearly east and west. The country round is slightly
undulating; numerous small creeks running to the eastward, with a deal of
grass and salt-bush. No water in this creek. Camped without. Wind east.
Tuesday, 3rd April, Gum Creek, South of Range. Ascended the hill at three
miles from last night's camp. The country very rough, stony, and scrubby
to the base. The view from it is very extensive. I have named it Mount
Beddome, after S. Beddome, Esquire, of Adelaide. To the west is another
broken range, about fifteen miles distant, of a dark-red colour, running
nearly north and south. The country between is apparently open, with
patches of scrub. A gum creek comes from the south-west and runs some
distance to the north-east; it then turns to the east. In the distant
west appears a dense scrub. On a bearing of 330 degrees there is a large
isolated table hill, for which I shall shape my course, to see if I can
get an entrance that way. To the north are a number of broken hills and
peaks with scrub between; they are of every shape and size. To the east
another flat-topped range; country between also scrubby; apparently open.
Close to the range, distant about twenty miles saw hills in the far
distance; to the east another flat-topped small range; between it and the
other the creek seems to run. The highest point of it bears 80 degrees,
and I have named it Mount Daniel, after Mr. Daniel Kekwick, of Adelaide.
From east to south-east the country is open and grassy; low ranges in the
distance. Saw some rain water, bearing 30 degrees, to which I will go,
and give the horses a drink; they had none last night. Distance, two
miles. Obtained an observation of the sun, 118 degrees 17 minutes 30
seconds. At six miles crossed the broad bed of a large gum creek; gravel;
no water. At eight miles the red sand hills commence, covered with
spinifex; and on the small flats mulga scrub, which continues to the base
of the hill. Red loose sand; no water. Distance, twenty miles from Mount
Beddome to this hill. The country good, until we get among the spinifex.
Wednesday, 4th April, Mount Humphries. At break of day ascended the
mount, which is composed of a soft white coarse sandstone. On the top is
a quantity of water-worn quartz, cemented into large masses. The view is
much the same as from Mount Beddome, broken ranges all round the horizon,
and apparently a dense scrub from south-west to west. It then becomes an
open and grassy country, with alternate patches of scrub. I can see a gum
creek about two miles distant; I can also see water in it, which the
horses have not yet discovered. I shall therefore go in that direction,
and give them a drink. To the north and eastward the country appears
good. Went to the aforesaid water, to see if there is any that I can
depend upon. On my return, wanting to correct my instrument, which met
with an accident three or four days ago, by the girths getting under the
horse's belly (he bolted and kicked it off), I sent Kekwick to examine
the creek that I saw coming from the north. He says there is plenty of
water to serve our purpose. The creek is very large, with the finest
gum-trees we have yet seen, all sizes and heights. This seems to be a
favourite place for the natives to camp, as there are eleven worleys in
one encampment. We saw here a number of new parrots, the black cockatoo,
and numerous other birds. The creek runs over a space of about two miles,
coming from the west; the bed sandy. After leaving it, on a bearing of
329 degrees, for nine miles, we passed over a plain of as fine a country
as any man would wish to see--a beautiful red soil covered with grass a
foot high; after that it becomes a little sandy. At fifteen miles we got
into some sand hills, but the feed was still most abundant. I have not
passed through such splendid country since I have been in the colony. I
only hope it may continue. The creek I have named the Finke, after
William Finke, Esquire, of Adelaide, my sincere and tried friend, and one
of the liberal supporters of the different explorations I have had the
honour to lead. Wind south-east. Cloudy.
Thursday, April 5th, Good Country. Started on the same course to some
hills, through sand hills and spinifex for ten miles. Halted for half an
hour to obtain an observation of the sun, 117 degrees 6 minutes. Within
the last mile or two we have passed a few patches of shea-oak, growing
large, having a very rough and thick bark, nearly black. They have a
dismal appearance. The spinifex now ceased, and grass began to take its
place as we approached the hills. From the top of the hill the view is
limited, except to the south-west, where, in the far distance, is a long
range. The country between seems to be scrub, red sand hills, and
spinifex. To the west the country is open, but at five miles is
intercepted by the point of the range that I am about to cross. To the
north-west and east is a mass of flat-topped hills, of every size and
shape, running always to the east. Camped on the head of a small gum
creek, among the hills, which are composed of the same description of
stones as the others. This water hole is three feet deep, and will last a
month or so. The native cucumber is growing here.
Friday, 6th April, Small Gum Creek in Range of Hills. Started on the same
course, 330 degrees, to a remarkable hill, which has the appearance at
this distance of a locomotive engine with its funnel. For three miles the
country is very good, but after that high sand hills succeeded, covered
with spinifex. At six miles we got to one of the largest gum creeks I
have yet seen. It is much the same as the one we saw on the 4th, and the
water in it is running. Great difficulty in crossing it, its bed being
quicksand. We were nearly across, when I saw a black fellow among the
bushes; I pulled up, and called to him. At first he seemed at a loss to
know where the sound came from. As soon, however, as he saw the other
horses coming up, he took to his heels, and was off like a shot, and we
saw no more of him. As far as I can judge, the creek comes from the
south-west, but the sand hills are so high, and the large black shea-oak
so thick, that I cannot distinguish the creek very well. These trees look
so much like gums in the distance; some of them are very large, as also
are the gums in the creek. Numerous tracks of blacks all about. It is the
upper part of the Finke, and at this point runs through high sand hills
(red), covered with spinifex, which it is very difficult to get the
horses through. We passed through a few patches of good grassy country.
In the sand hills the oak is getting more plentiful. We were
three-quarters of an hour in crossing the creek, and obtained an
observation of the sun, 116 degrees 26 minutes 15 seconds. We then
proceeded on the same course towards the remarkable pillar, through high,
heavy sand hills, covered with spinifex, and, at twelve miles from last
night's camp, arrived at it. It is a pillar of sandstone, standing on a
hill upwards of one hundred feet high. From the base of the pillar to its
top is about one hundred and fifty feet, quite perpendicular; and it is
twenty feet wide by ten feet deep, with two small peaks on the top. I
have named it Chambers Pillar, in honour of James Chambers, Esquire, who,
with William Finke, Esquire, has been my great supporter in all my
explorations. To the north and north-east of it are numerous remarkable
hills, which have a very striking effect in the landscape; they resemble
nothing so much as a number of old castles in ruins; they are standing in
the midst of sand hills. Proceeded, still on the same course, through the
sand rises, spinifex, and low sandstone hills, at the foot of which we
saw some rain water, where I camped. To the south-west are some high
hills, through which I think the Finke comes. I would follow it up, but
the immense quantity of sand in its bed shows that it comes from a sandy
country, which I wish to avoid if I can. Wind south-east. Heavy clouds;
very like rain.
Saturday, 7th April, Rain Water under Sandstone Hills. Started on the
same course 330 degrees, over low sand rises and spinifex, for six miles.
It then became a plain of red soil, with mulga bushes, and for seven
miles was as fine a grassed country as any one would wish to look at; it
could be cut with a scythe. Dip of the country to the east, sand hills to
the west; afterwards it became alternate sand hills and grassy plains,
mulga, mallee, and black oak. From the top of one of the sand hills, I
can see a range which our line will cut; I shall make to the foot of that
to-night, and I expect I shall find a creek with water there. Proceeded
through another long plain sloping towards the creek, and covered with
grass. At about one mile from the creek we again met with sand hills and
spinifex, which continued to it. Arrived and camped; found water. It is
very broad, with a sandy bottom, which will not retain water long;
beautiful grass on both banks. Wind east, and cool.
Sunday, 8th April, The Hugh Gum Creek. I have named this creek the Hugh,
and the range James Range. It is scrubby on this side and is not
flat-topped as all the others have been, which indicates a change of
country. On the other side the bearing is nearly east and west. Examined
the creek, but cannot find sufficient water to depend upon for any length
of time; the gum-trees are large. Numerous parrots, black cockatoos, and
other birds. Wind east; very cold during the night.
Monday, 9th April, The Hugh Gum Creek. Started for the highest point of
the James range. At four miles arrived on the top, through a very thick
scrub of mulga; the range is composed of soft red sandstone, long blocks
of it lying on the side. To the east, apparently red sand hills, beyond
which are seen the tops of other hills to the north-east. On the
north-west the view is intercepted by a high, broken range, with two very
remarkable bluffs about the centre. I shall direct my course to the east
bluff, which is apparently the higher of the two. In the intermediate
country are three lower ranges, between which are flats of green grass,
and red sand hills. To the west are grassy flats next to the creek;
beyond these are seen the tops of distant ranges and broken hills; at
about six miles the Hugh seems to turn more to the north, towards a very
rough range of red sandstone. We then descended into a grassy flat with a
few gum-trees. We have had a very great difficulty in crossing the range,
and now I am again stopped by another low range of the same description,
which is nearly perpendicular--huge masses of red sandstone on its side,
and in the valley a number of old native camps. After following the range
three miles, we at last found out a place to cross it. Although this is
not half the height of James range, we encountered far more difficulty;
the scrub was very dense, a great quantity having withered and fallen
down: we could scarcely get the horses to face it. Our course was also
intercepted by deep, perpendicular ravines, which we were obliged to
round after a great deal of trouble, having our saddlebags torn to
pieces, and our skin and clothes in the same predicament. We arrived at
the foot nearly naked, and got into open sandy rises and valleys, with
mulga and plenty of grass, among which there is some spinifex growing. At
sundown, after having gone about eight miles further, we made a large gum
creek, in which we found some water; it is very broad, with a sand and
gravel bottom. Camped, both men and horses being very tired.
Tuesday, 10th April, Gum Creek, Bend of the Hugh. I find our saddle-bags
and harness are so much torn and broken that I cannot proceed until they
are repaired. I am compelled with great reluctance to remain here to-day.
This creek is running to the west. On ascending a sand hill this morning,
I find that it is the Hugh (which seems to drain the sand hills) that we
saw to the east from the top of James range. There is another branch
between us and the high ranges. At about four miles west it seems to
break through the rough range and join the Hugh. A large number of native
encampments here, and rushes are growing in and about the creek: there is
plenty of water.