(for we started with provisions only for three months, and have been out
now for three months and more), I must sound a retreat to get another
supply at Chambers Creek. It was my intention to have sent two men down
for them, but I am sorry to say that I have lost confidence in all except
Kekwick. I cannot trust them to be sent far, nor dare I leave them with
our equipment and horses while Kekwick and I go for the provisions.
Situated as I am with them, I must take all the horses down; and if I can
get men to replace them at Chambers Creek, I will send them about their
business. They have been a constant source of annoyance to me from the
very beginning of my journey. The man that I had out with me on my last
journey has been the worst of the two. They seem to have made up their
minds to do as little as possible, and that in the most slovenly and lazy
manner imaginable. They appear to take no interest in the success of the
expedition. I have talked to them until I am completely wearied out;
indeed, I am surprised that I have endured it so long. Many a one would
have discharged them, and sent them back walking to Adelaide; in fact, I
had almost made up my mind to do so from here, and to run the chance of
getting others at Mr. Barker's. Although they have behaved so badly, and
so richly deserve to be punished (for they have taken advantage of me
when I could get no others to supply their places), I could not find in
my heart to do it. Kekwick is everything I could wish a man to be. He is
active, pushing, and persevering. At any time, and at any moment, he is
always ready, and takes a pleasure in doing all that lies in his power to
forward the expedition. Would that the two others were like him! I should
then have no trouble at all. Started at 7 a.m. on my return on a
south-east course, and camped at a small spring on the east side of Mount
Younghusband. Distance, twenty miles.
Saturday, 7th January, Mount Younghusband. Started at 7 a.m. for the
Milne Springs, where I shall remain for a day or two to get all the
horses fresh shod, and leave what things I do not require, intending to
get them on my return. Arrived there at 11 o'clock. Found the water much
the same as it was when I first saw it.
Sunday, 8th January, Milne Springs. Severe attack of lumbago. Sun hot;
but cool breeze from south-east.
Monday, 9th January, Milne Springs. Unable to ride, so I was obliged to
send Kekwick and one of the men to the westward. This was a great
disappointment to me, as I should like to have seen the country myself to
have connected it with my farthest north-west point on my first journey.
The other man was shoeing the horses. Sun hot. Cool breeze from
south-east. Very cold night and morning.
Tuesday, 10th January, Milne Springs. Latitude, 28 degrees 15 minutes 45
seconds. Shoeing horses. Flies a great trouble; can do nothing for them.
If they are allowed to remain a moment on the eye, it swells up
immediately, and is very painful. Kekwick and the other man returned at 9
o'clock p.m. They report having found two springs, one about nine miles
west, and the other about thirty miles, in a large spring country, which
they had not time to examine well. Although I am so unwell, I must start
to-morrow and see what it is. Judging from their description, there must
be something good; and I cannot leave without seeing it, although my
provisions are nearly done.
Wednesday, 11th January, Milne Springs. Shortly after sunrise started
with Kekwick on a west course for the larger spring country, leaving the
near one until our return. At eleven miles and a half crossed the Blyth,
coming from the south. At twenty-eight miles reached the spring country.
Changed to 150 degrees, and at two miles camped at the spring. The
springy place has the appearance of a large salt lagoon, three miles
broad and upwards of eight miles long. At the south end of it is a creek
with brackish water, and on its banks are the springs, the water from
which is very good; they are not running.
Thursday, 12th January, West Springs. There are a number of natives at
these springs. We have seen their smoke, and both old and recent tracks.
Started on a south course. At four miles and a half came upon a creek,
with reeds and brackish water, running a little to the west of north.
Traced it down for upwards of a mile and a half. Saw that it ran into the
swamp west of where we struck it. Could see no springs upon its banks.
Returned to the place where we first struck it, and proceeded a mile on a
course of 120 degrees to three large patches of very green reeds, which
turned out to be eight feet high. Could find no surface water except what
was brackish. The country was moist all round. Thence on the same bearing
for two miles. Sent Kekwick to examine some places that looked like
springs. They were in the middle of a large salt lagoon, having a crust
of limestone, under which the water was, and if broken open, in many
places where there was no sign of water, a beautiful supply could be
obtained. Changed to 245 degrees, and, at about fifteen miles, changed to
90 degrees, through sand hills. We have seen many places where water can
be obtained at a few inches below the surface. Camped at the spring. Feel
very ill; can scarcely sit on my horse.
Friday, 13th January, West Springs. Being anxious to see the nature of
the country between this and the Mount Margaret range, I started at 6.30
on a course of 110 degrees over occasional sand hills and stony places,
with splendid feed. At ten miles and a half reached a stony rise, and
changed my course to 76 degrees, for five miles, to a black hill composed
of ironstone. Changed to 105 degrees, for one mile, to examine a white
place coming down from the range, which had the appearance of springs,
but found it to be composed of white quartz. Changed again to 50 degrees
to a rough hill, which had also the appearance of springs. At two miles
crossed the bed of the Blyth, which takes its rise in the range. No water
in it, but loose sand and gravel. At seven miles reached the rough hill,
after crossing three small tributaries; was disappointed in not finding
water. Ascended the hill, from which we had a good view of the
surrounding country, but see no indications of water. I must now make for
the second spring found by my men three days ago. Course north, over
stony hills and table land, in which I crossed my former tracks going to
the Freeling Springs. Arrived at the spring at 7.30 p.m. All of us, men
and horses, very tired.
Saturday, 14th January, Springs South of Mount Younghusband. Examined the
spring, and found it to be a very good one; it is situated near the banks
of the Blyth, on the same spongy ground that I discovered last time, and
which was marked off as a run. Searched about, and found two more good
springs. There was plenty of water in the creek, but the dry season had
made it brackish. Discovered a spring in one of the creeks that runs east
from Mount Margaret. The natives had cleared it out, and the water, which
was very good, was about two feet from the surface. In the other two
creeks we also found springs which only required opening. I then made for
the camp, where I found everything all right.
Sunday, 15th January, Milne Springs. Preparing for a start to-morrow for
Chambers Creek, by way of Louden Springs; I must endeavour to find some
more springs, for I am not quite satisfied yet about that country. Very
much annoyed by the misconduct of the two men I left behind at the camp;
they have had the impertinence to open my plan-case, and have so damaged
my principal plan with their hot moist hands, that I know not what to do
with it. This is not the first time they have done it.
Monday, 16th January, Milne Springs. Started at 7.10 a.m. on a bearing of
138 degrees 30 minutes. At about twenty-two miles struck four other
springs, beyond the Messrs. Levi's boundary; from one of them there is a
strong stream of water flowing. They are almost completely hidden, and
one cannot see them until almost on the top of them. I have taken
bearings to fix them, and have named them Kekwick Springs. Five o'clock
p.m. Arrived at Louden Springs. Distance, thirty-one miles.
Tuesday, 17th January, Louden Springs. Started shortly after daybreak, on
a course of 110 degrees, over as fine a grass country as I have yet
travelled over. At sixteen miles crossed the Douglas, running through
sand hills covered with grass, but no water, nor any signs of springs.
Proceeded in the same direction for eight miles, when we were stopped by
a lagoon. Changed my course to south-south-west to a hill that had the
appearance of water, but found beyond it another large dry lagoon, on the
banks of which we saw the tracks of a single horse crossing the end of
the lagoon, and steering for Lake Torrens; they seemed to be about two
months old. Can they be the tracks of that infatuated man who left me on
the 20th of November? In all probability he has lost my downward track
and himself also. They are only about two miles to the east of mine.
Camped without water on a sand hill.
Wednesday, 18th January, Sand Hill. Started shortly after daybreak on a
south-south-east course, still in search of springs (crossing my outward
track of last journey), at a place where I thought it most likely for
them, but was unsuccessful. If I could have found one here, I should have
gone direct to the Emerald Springs, but the horses would suffer very much
if they were to be another night without water; the food is so dry, and
the weather so hot, they cannot endure more than two days and one night
without it. Changed my course to Strangway Spring. Arrived there at 2.30.
Some of the horses very much done up. Camped, and gave them the rest of
the day to recruit.
Thursday, 19th January, Strangway Springs. Started for the Beresford
Springs. At nine miles and a half arrived there; and, at eight miles
beyond, made the Hamilton Springs, where we camped for the night.
Friday, 20th January, Hamilton Springs. Started by way of the Emerald
Springs, to see if Mr. Barker's party is there, or if any person had been
there and got the parcel, and forwarded it to Mr. Chambers. Arrived at
the springs, and found that some one had got it. Mr. B.'s party had gone.
Went on to Chambers Creek, and found them there.
Saturday, 21st January, Chambers Creek. Here we found provisions awaiting
us, as we expected; but the two men still exhibit a spirit of
non-compliance, and refuse to proceed again to the north-west; they are
bent upon leaving me and returning to Adelaide although they know that
there are no men here to supply their places. They have demanded their
wages and a discharge, which, under all the circumstances of the case,
and considering how badly they have served me, I feel myself justified in
withholding. I shall therefore be compelled to send Kekwick down as far
as Mr. Chambers' station with my despatches, etc., and to procure other
assistance. This will be a great loss of time and expense, which the
wages these men have forfeited by not fulfilling their agreements will
ill repay. Here we heard of the man Smith, who, it seems, left the mare,
whether dead or alive we know not at present. He was lost for four days
without water (according to his own account), and, after various
adventures, and picking up sundry trifles from different travelling
parties, who relieved him out of compassion, reached the settled
districts in a most forlorn condition. Mr. Barker had left his station
some three weeks before we arrived.
JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S FOURTH EXPEDITION--FIXING THE CENTRE OF THE
CONTINENT. FROM MARCH TO SEPTEMBER, 1860.
Friday, 2nd March, 1860, Chambers Creek. Left the creek for the
north-west, with thirteen horses and two men. The grey horse being too
weak to travel was left behind. Camped at Hamilton Springs.
Saturday, 3rd March, Mount Hamilton. Camped at the Beresford Springs,
where it was evident that the natives, whose camp is a little way from
this, had had a fight. There were the remains of a body of a very tall
native lying on his back. The skull was broken in three or four places,
the flesh nearly all devoured by the crows and native dogs, and both feet
and hands were gone. There were three worleys on the rising ground, with
waddies, boomerangs, spears, and a number of broken dishes scattered
round them. The natives seemed to have run away and left them, or to have
been driven away by a hostile tribe. Between two of the worleys we
observed a handful of hair, apparently torn from the skull of the dead
man, and a handful of emu feathers placed close together, the feathers to
the north-west, the hair to the south-east. They were between two pieces
of charred wood, which had been extinguished before the feathers and hair
were placed there. It seemed to be a mark of some description.
Sunday, 4th March, Beresford Springs. Night and morning cold; day very
hot. Wind south-west.
Monday, 5th March, Beresford Springs. Wind changed to the east during the
night. Morning very cold. Arrived at the Strangway Springs. Day very hot.
Wind variable.
Tuesday, 6th March, Strangway Springs. Very hot during the night. Made
William Springs and camped. The day exceedingly hot, wind south-west, in
which direction a heavy bank of clouds arose about noon; in the evening
there was a great deal of lightning, and apparently much rain falling
there, but none came down our way.
Wednesday, 7th March, William Springs. The night very hot and cloudy,
with the wind from the west, but without rain. Started for Louden Spa,*
(* The Louden Springs of the two last expeditions.) the first few miles
being over low sand rises and broad valleys of light sandy soil, with
abundance of dry grass; by keeping a little more to the north-west the
sand rises can be avoided. At seven miles we struck a swamp, but could
see no springs. On approaching the Douglas the country becomes more
stony, and continues so to the Spa, where we camped.
Thursday, 8th March, Louden Spa. Cold wind this morning from the
south-east; the clouds are gone. Camped at Hawker Springs.
Friday, 9th March, Hawker Springs. Very cold last night. Wind from the
south. During the day it changed to the south-east, and the sun was very
hot. Camped at the Milne Springs, and found the articles we had left*
there all right (* See last expedition.); the natives had opened the
place where we had put them, but had taken nothing.
Saturday, 10th March, Milne Springs. At half past 11 last night it began
to rain, and continued doing so nearly all day. Wind south-east.
Sunday, 11th March, Milne Springs. About 10 o'clock last night we were
flooded with water, although upon rising ground, and were obliged to move
our camp to the top of a small hill. It rained all night and morning, but
there are signs of a break in the clouds. During the day it has rained at
intervals. The creek is coming down very rapidly, covering all the valley
with a sheet of water.
Monday, 12th March, Milne Springs. A few heavy showers during the night,
but now there seems a chance of a fine day, which will enable us to get
our provisions dried again. The country is so boggy that I cannot proceed
to-day, but if it continues fair I shall attempt it to-morrow morning.
This rain is a great boon to me, as it will give me both feed and water
for my horses, and if it has gone to the north-west it will save me a
great deal of time looking for water.
Tuesday, 13th March, Milne Springs. Started for Freeling Springs. The
country in some places is very soft, but the travelling is better than I
expected. As we approached the Denison ranges the rain did not seem to
have been so heavy, but when we came to the Peake, we found it running
bank high, and very boggy. Impossible to cross it here, so I shall follow
it up in a west-south-west direction. Camped at Freeling Springs.
Wednesday, 14th March, Freeling Springs. Started on a course a little to
the south of west, to try and find a crossing-place. At two miles it
turned a little to the north of west, but at ten miles it turned to the
south-west, and was running very rapidly, about five miles an hour. I was
obliged to stop at this point, as I could not cross the creek, the banks
being so boggy. I have discovered another spring at eleven miles on the
same bearing as the Freeling Springs, but I cannot get to it. From here
it has the appearance of being very good; a hill covered with reeds at
the top, the creek running round the east side of it. I shall endeavour
to cross to-morrow and examine it.
Thursday, 15th March, The Peake. The creek being still impassable, I
remained here another day. Yesterday the horse that was carrying my
instruments broke away from the man who was leading him, burst the
girths, and threw the saddlebags on the ground. The instruments were very
much injured, in fact very nearly ruined; the sextant being put out of
adjustment, has taken me all day to repair, and I am not sure now whether
it is correct or not. It is a great misfortune. Wind north; clouds
north-east.
Friday, 16th March, The Peake. Saddled and started to cross the Peake
about three miles to the south-west, but had a fearful job in doing so,
the banks being so boggy, and the current so strong. The horses could
hardly keep on their feet, and most of them were up to their
saddle-flaps, and some under water altogether. One poor old fellow we
were obliged to leave in it, as he was unable to get out, and we were
unable to help him, although we tried for hours. He is of very little use
to me, for he has never recovered his trip to Moolloodoo and back. He has
had nothing to carry since we started, and seemed to be improving every
day. I wish now that I had left him at Chambers Creek along with the
grey, but as he looked in better condition, I thought he would mend on
the journey, and I intended him to bring the horses in every morning,
when we got further out. We have been from 10 a.m. to 3.30 p.m. in
getting across, including the time spent in trying to extricate Billy. I
cannot proceed further to-day, and have therefore camped on the west side
of the springs that we saw from the last encampment, which I named
Kekwick Springs. There are six springs. The largest one will require to
be opened; the reeds on it are very thick, and from ten to twelve feet in
height. We tried again to get the horse on shore, but could not manage
it; the more we try to extricate him, the worse he gets. I have left him;
I do not think he will survive the night. It is now sundown, and raining
heavily; the night looks very black and stormy. Wind from the south-west.
Saturday, 17th March, Kekwick Springs. About 8 o'clock last evening the
wind changed to the north-west, and we had some very heavy rain, which
lasted the greater part of the night. Early in the morning the wind
changed again to the south-east, with occasional showers. At sunrise it
looked very stormy. I must be off as soon as possible out of this boggy
place. The old horse is still alive, but very weak. The water has lowered
during the night. If no more rain falls to the south-west it will soon be
dry, when he may have a chance of getting out. I cannot remain longer to
assist him; it would only be putting the rest of my horses in danger. I
would have remained here to-day to have dried my provisions, but the
appearance of the weather will not allow me. They must take their chance.
Started on a north-west course for the Neale. At fifteen miles struck it,
and changed to the west to a creek coming south from the stony rises. The
banks of the Neale are very boggy. The first four miles to-day were along
the top of a sandy rise, with swampy flats on each side, with a number of
reeds growing in them, also rushes and water-grass. At four miles was a
strong rise, but before we arrived at it we had to cross one of the
swamps, in which we encountered great difficulty. After many turnings and
twistings, and being bogged up to the shoulders, we managed to get
through all safe. It was fearfully hard work. For three miles, on the top
of a stony rise, the country is poor (stones on the top of gypsum
deposit), but after that it gradually improves, and towards the creek it
becomes a good salt-bush country. Wind from the south-east; still very
cloudy.
Sunday, 18th March, Neale River. Wind south-east; heavy clouds. I
observed a bulbous plant growing in this creek resembling the Egyptian
arum; it was just springing. I will endeavour to get some of the seed, if
I can. I hoped we should have got our provisions dried to-day, but it was
so showery we could not get it done. The creek is so boggy that we cannot
cross it, and must follow it round to-morrow. A sad accident has happened
to my plans. There was a small hole in the case that contains them, which
I did not observe, and in crossing the Peake the water gained admittance
and completely saturated them; it is a great misfortune. Sundown: still
raining; wind same direction.
Monday, 19th March, Neale River. Rained during the night, and looks very
stormy this morning. Followed the Neale round to where it goes through
the gap in Hanson range; in places it was rather boggy, but good
travelling in this wet weather--firmer than I expected. We had much
difficulty in crossing some of the side creeks. Camped on the south side
of the gap. Wind south-east; cloudy, with little rain.
Tuesday, 20th March, Neale River Gap, Hanson Range. Wind south-east; a
few showers during the night. Still no chance of getting my provisions
dried. It cleared off about noon, and became a fine day. Followed the
Neale round, and camped on one of the side creeks coming from the south
of west. Ground still soft. Wind south-east. Saw some smoke in the hills
this morning, but no natives. Good country along both sides of the range
on the west side of the Neale.
Wednesday, 21st March, Neale River. Beautiful sunshine. Shall remain here
to-day, in order to dry my provisions. On examining them I find that a
quantity of our dried meat is quite spoiled, which is a great
loss--another wet day, and we should have lost the half of it.
Thursday, 22nd March, Side Creek of the Neale River. Wind south-west;
clear sky. I intended to have gone north-west from this point, but, in
attempting to cross the creek, we found it impassable. My horse got
bogged at the first start, and we had some difficulty in getting him out.
We were obliged to follow the creek westward for seven miles, where it
passes between two high hills connected with the range. We managed at
last, with great labour and difficulty, to get across without accident.
At this place four creeks join the main one, and spread over a mile in
breadth, with upwards of twenty boggy water-courses; water running. It
has taken us five hours, from the time we started, to cross it. The
principal creek comes from the south-west. I ascended the two hills to
get a view of the surrounding country, and I could see the creek coming
from a long way off in that direction. At this point the range seems
broken or detached into numerous small ranges and isolated hills. I now
changed my course to north-west, over table land of a light-brown colour,
with stones on the surface; the vegetation was springing all over it and
looking beautifully green. At six miles on this course camped on a myall
creek. The work for the horses has been so very severe to-day that I have
been induced to camp sooner than I intended. Wind south.
Friday, 23rd March, Myall Creek. Wind south. Started on the same course,
north-west. At three miles crossed another tributary--gum and myall. The
country, before we struck the creek, was good salt-bush country, with a
plentiful supply of grass. The soil was of a light-brown colour, gypsum
underneath, and stones on the surface, grass and herbs growing all round
them. After crossing the creek, which was boggy, we again ascended a low
table land of the same description. At ten miles came upon a few low sand
rises, about a mile in breadth. We then struck a creek, another
tributary, spread over a large plain, very boggy, with here and there
patches of quicksand. We had great difficulty in getting over it, but at
last succeeded without any mishap. We then entered a thick scrubby
country of mulga and other shrubs; the soil now changed to a dark red,
covered splendidly with grass. After the first mile the scrub became much
thinner; ground slightly undulating. After crossing this good country, at
twenty miles we struck a large creek running very rapidly at five miles
per hour; breadth of water one hundred feet, with gum-trees on the bank.
From bank to bank it was forty-four yards wide. This seemed to be only
one of the courses. There were other gum-trees on the opposite side, and
apparently other channels. Wind south. A few clouds from the north-west.