Kekwick to find the lake on an easterly course, keeping to south of east,
to avoid a soft lagoon. Travelled over a fair salt-bush and grass
country, with stones on the surface. In places the grass is abundant,
though dry. At seven miles the sand hills commenced; they are low, with
broad valleys between, covered with stone. On the sand hills there was
plenty of grass, and numerous native and emu tracks going towards the
Neale, which is to the south of us. At fourteen miles struck a gum creek
with salt water. Searched for springs, but could find none with
fresh-water. Continued on a course east over sand hills and stony plain,
and at twenty miles crossed the Neale. It is very broad, with numerous
channels. In the main one there was plenty of water, but it was very
brackish. We scratched a hole on the bank about two feet from the salt
water, and found plenty of good water at six inches from the surface, of
which our horses drank very readily. This seems to be the mode in which
the natives obtain good water in a dry season like this. The emus and
other birds also adopt the same plan. An immense quantity of water must
come down this creek at times. The drift stuff was upwards of thirteen
feet high in the gum-trees. A number of native tracks all about the
creek, quite fresh, but we could not see any one. After giving our horses
as much water as they would drink, we crossed the creek, which now runs
north, and proceeded, still on our easterly course, over stony plains for
four miles, then over sand hills, which continued to the lake, which we
struck at thirty-five miles. The atmosphere is so thick, it is impossible
to say what it is like to-night. Camped without water under a high sand
hill, so that I may have a good view of the lake in the morning. I like
not the appearance of it to-night; I am afraid we are going to lose it.
Friday, 2nd December, Lake Torrens. Got up at the first peep of day and
ascended the sand hill. I fear my conjecture of last night is too true. I
can see a small dark line of low land all round the horizon. The line of
blue water is very small. So ends Lake Torrens! Started on a course of 30
degrees west of north to where the Neale empties itself into the lake. At
seven miles struck it; found plenty of water, but very salt, with
pelicans and other water-birds upon it. Traversed the creek to the
south-west in search of water for the horses. At five miles came upon a
number of water-bushes growing on the banks of a large brackish water
hole. Scraped a hole about two feet from the bad water, and got good
water six inches from the surface for ourselves and horses. Gave them an
hour's rest and started on a west course for the camp, where we arrived
at 9.30 p.m. The country was similar to that on our outward route; feed
more abundant. At sundown we crossed the broad channel of a creek, with
moisture in the centre. Having neither time nor light to examine it
to-night, I must do so to-morrow, as I think there must be springs to
supply the moisture.
Saturday, 3rd December, Primrose Springs. Sent Kekwick to examine the
creek we crossed last night. I cannot go myself, for my eyes are so very
bad I can scarcely see anything. This is the first time I have had such a
long continuance of this complaint. I am trying every remedy I can
imagine, but each seems to have very little or no effect. At sundown
Kekwick returned, and reported having found the springs which supply the
creek, but they are salter than the sea, or the strongest brine that ever
was made. He brought in a fine sample of crystal of salt, which he got
from under the water, attached to the branch of a bush which had blown
into it. The creek is the upper part of the first gum creek crossed
yesterday, and flows into the Neale, which accounts for the water being
so salt at the mouth of it. No fresh-water springs to be seen round
about.
Sunday, 4th December, Primrose Springs. Examining the Neale for
fresh-water springs. The water holes are abundant, but all more or less
brackish; plenty of rushes on the banks, where fresh water can be had by
scratching a little below the surface. I have not the least doubt but
there will be plenty of fresh water on the surface for a long time after
the creek comes down and sweeps all the soda and salt into the lake. It
is the rapid evaporation that causes it to be so brackish, and I should
think the consumption by stock would make a great improvement in it;
there would not be so much of it exposed to the sun, and the evaporation
would be much less. After considering the matter of having seen the
northern boundary of Lake Torrens, I am inclined to think I have been in
error. What I have taken for the lake may have been a large lagoon, which
receives the waters of the Neale before going into the large lake: I must
examine it again. After my surveys are completed, I shall move my party
down the creek to where we found the good water, and from there see what
it really is. I cannot bring my mind to think it is the northern boundary
of the lake.
Monday, 5th December, Primrose Springs. Moved the party down to the South
Parry Springs. My eyes are still very bad.
Tuesday, 6th December, South Parry Springs. Shortly after daybreak
started for Louden Springs, taking different courses, in search of more
springs, but can find none. Examined the George Creek, where the small
run is to be laid off; found some good water by scratching in the creek,
where there are plenty of rushes. A little before sundown we arrived at
the springs. I did not observe before that the higher springs on the top
of the hill are warm, but not nearly so hot as the others; the lower ones
are cold. Some other party has been here; we have seen their fresh tracks
and the place where they have camped; they seem to have been wandering
about a good deal before they found these springs.
Wednesday, 7th December, Louden Springs. Went to the top of Mount
Stevenson, built a cone of stones, and obtained bearings to fix it. No
appearance of any springs to the east of this, nor of the lake.
Thursday, 8th December, Louden Springs. Surveying and building
trigonometrical station on a light-coloured hill to the south of this. My
eyes very bad; can scarcely see; can do nothing.
Friday, 9th December, Louden Springs. Nearly blind; dreadful pain; can do
nothing to-day; no sleep last night.
Saturday, 10th December, Louden Springs. All yesterday the wind was hot
and strong from west and north-west; heavy clouds from south and
south-west. In the evening the wind changed to south. This morning still
the same; heavy clouds from same direction. My eyes are a little better,
so that I shall be able to do something. The sky being overcast I shall
put up some of the corners of this run.
Sunday, 11th December, Louden Springs. Still cloudy, but no rain.
Monday, 12th December, Louden Springs. Still very cloudy; wind south;
heavy clouds to north-west; no rain. Finishing the east boundary of
Number 3 run. Can find no more springs in or about this run. At sundown
still very cloudy, but no rain.
Tuesday, 13th December, Louden Springs. Started at 7.15 a.m. to find the
lake on an east course. The horses being a long distance off, it was late
before they came up. At nine miles crossed the gum creek running north,
spread out in a broad valley into numerous courses rich in food for
cattle. At twelve miles sand hills commenced, and continued to the shores
of the lake, with broad stony plains between, and plenty of grass. At
twenty miles crossed the Douglas, running north through sand hills in a
broad valley divided into numerous courses, with dwarf gum-trees, mallee,
tea-tree, and numerous other bushes; the bed sandy, and no water. At
thirty-five miles struck the lake where the Douglas joins it. The country
travelled over to-day has been stony plain (undulating), and low sand
hills, with abundance of feed, but no water. There is some water at the
mouth of the Douglas, but it is salter than the sea. The water in the
lake seems to be a long distance off, but the mirage is so very strong
that I can form no opinion of it to-night. This seems also a bay I have
got into. There is a point of land to the south bearing 25 degrees east
of south, and the other bearing 25 degrees east of north. Searched about
for water, but could find none. Camped in the creek without any. The
country at this part is very low, and nearly on a level with the lake.
The only sand hill I shall be able to get a view from is not above thirty
feet high. At sundown I got on the top of the sand hill, but could see
nothing distinctly; must wait until morning. This creek seems to be very
little frequented by natives; can see very few tracks and no worleys.
Wednesday, 14th December, Lake Torrens. At the first dawn of day I got to
the top of the hill, and remained there some time after sunrise. To the
south-east there is the appearance of a point of land, which I suppose to
be the island which I saw when I first struck the lake. There is the
appearance of water between. A little more to the eastward I can see
nothing but horizon. To the east there is again the appearance of very
low distant land--a mere dark line when seen through a powerful
telescope. To the north of that there is nothing visible but the horizon,
with a blue and white streak between. To the north-north-east beyond the
point, a little low land is to be seen running out from the point, with
water in the far distance. Rode down to the beach to see what that was
composed of; found it to be sand, mud and gravel; firm ground next the
shore. Tried a little distance with the horses, but found it too soft to
proceed with them. I then dismounted, and tried it on foot, but could
only get about two miles; it became so soft, that I was sinking to the
ankles, and the clay was so very tenacious that it completely tired me
before I got back to the horses. The quantity of salt was not so great
here as at the first place I examined. What I thought was a point of land
bearing north-north-east turns out to be an island, which I can see from
here. The point of the bay is north from where I took the bearings.
Between the island and the point I can see nothing but horizon; too low
to see any water. Traced the creek up for seven miles in search of water
or springs, but could see none, nor any indications. Had breakfast, and
started on a course of 20 degrees north of west in search of water or
springs. Crossed the Davenport and ascended a low range, but still could
not see any indications of water; the country similar to that passed over
yesterday. Changed my bearing towards the camp, and arrived there a
little before sundown. The horses were very thirsty, and drank an awful
quantity of water, but being hot it will do them no harm. It is
remarkable that to east of the hot springs I can find no others. This is
the third time I have tried it, and been unsuccessful. I am almost afraid
that the next time I try the lake I shall not find the north boundary of
it. Where can all this water drain to? It is a mystery.
Thursday, 15th December, Louden Springs. Surveyed run Number 4, and sent
Kekwick to correct observations from Mount Stevenson.
Friday, 16th December, Louden Springs. Finished Number 4 run. To-day we
have discovered a large fresh-water hole in a creek joining the George
and coming from the south-west. The water seems to be permanent; it is
half a mile long and seems to be deep. On the banks a number of natives
have been encamped; round about their fires were large quantities of the
shells of the fresh-water mussel, the fish from which they had been
eating: I should think this a very good proof of the water being
permanent. After finishing the survey I followed the creek up for a
number of miles in search of more water, but could find none. It spread
into a number of courses over a large plain, on which there was splendid
feed.
Saturday, 17th December, Louden Springs. Started for the springs under
Mount Margaret to finish the western boundary of Number 1 run. Arrived
towards sundown. Found the creek occupied by natives, who, as soon as
they caught sight of us, bolted to the hill and got upon the top of a
high cliff, and there remained for some time, having a good view of us. I
did everything in my power to induce them to come down to us, but they
would not, and beckoned us to be off back the road we came. At night they
had fires round us, but at some distance off.
Sunday, 18th December, Mount Margaret. About 9 a.m. the natives made
their appearance on the hill, and made signs for us to be off; they were
eight in number. I found that we had camped close to a large quantity of
acacia seed that they had been preparing when we arrived, but had no time
to carry it away before we were on them. One old fellow was very
talkative. I went towards them to try and make friends with them, but
they all took to the hills. By signs I induced the old fellow to stop,
and in a short time got him to come a little nearer. When I came to the
steep bank of the creek he made signs for me to come no further. I showed
him I had no arms with me, and wished him to come up. I could understand
him so far that he wished us to go away, that they might get their seed.
I thought it as well not to aggravate them, but to show them that we came
as friends; and as I had completed all I had to do here, I moved the camp
towards the Freeling Springs, at which they seemed very glad, and made
signs for us to come back at sundown. They seemed to be a larger race
than those down below; the men are tall and muscular, the females are low
in stature and thin. I examined the Mount Margaret range in going along;
there are a number of gum creeks coming from the north side which flow
into the Neale. We searched them up and down, but could find no water.
The number of channels that join them in the range is so great that it
would take weeks to examine them minutely for water. We camped in one of
them without water, although the country promises well for it.
Monday, 19th December, Gum Creek. Started on a north-west course to
examine the country between this and the Mount Younghusband range. We
could see no springs until we reached the Blyth, in which there is water,
but a little brackish; it will do well for cattle. Rode through the
middle of the range, and came upon some horse-tracks, not very old; saw
where the party had camped, and a cairn of stones they had erected on the
top of one of the hills. Followed their tracks some distance down the
gully; they seemed to be going to the Burrow Springs; they appear,
however, to have gone back again. Left the tracks, and proceeded to the
Freeling Springs. Arrived there in the afternoon. No one has been here
since I was, as far as I can see. The country we have passed over
yesterday and to-day has been really splendid for feed. The springs
continue the same, running in a strong stream and of the finest quality.
Tuesday, 20th December, Freeling Springs. Sent Kekwick and one of the men
to examine the goldfield, and to select a place for sinking to-morrow
morning. My eyes were so bad that I was unable to go. They returned in
the afternoon, bringing with them samples from the quartz reefs, in which
there was the appearance of gold. Kekwick said he had not seen such good
quartz since he left the diggings in Victoria. There was every indication
of gold, and I determined to give the place a good trial before leaving
it.
Wednesday, 21st December, Freeling Springs. Commenced digging, but found
the rocks too near. Surface indications were very slight here, but I
found another place which seemed to promise better, so began sinking
there, and at four feet came upon some large boulders, round which was
very good-looking stuff for washing; took some of it to camp and washed
it. No gold, but good indications; a quantity of black sand and emery,
also other good signs. I shall continue the hole, and see what is in the
bottom. Thunderstorm this afternoon; south-west hot wind.
Thursday, 22nd December, Freeling Springs. Occupied in sinking, but made
little progress in consequence of the stones being so large, and the want
of proper tools, crowbar, etc. Washed some more stuff from round about
the boulders; the produce same as yesterday; no gold.
Friday, December 23rd, Freeling Springs. Found that we could do nothing
with the stones with the tools we have. Examined the country round about,
and found another place, which will be commenced to-morrow. Examined a
quartz reef which had every indication of gold. I regretted that I had
not another man, so that I might be able to examine the country for some
distance round. It is necessary to have two men at the camp, which cannot
be moved to where we are sinking, as there is no water within two miles.
It would not be safe to leave the camp with one man only, and two
digging, which is all our strength. Heavy thunderstorm from the
south-west, but very little rain. The wind blew my tent in two. At
sundown it passed over and cleared up, which I regretted to see, as I
expected heavy rains at this season, to enable me to make for the north
or north-west.
Saturday, 24th December, Freeling Springs. Sank upwards of six feet
through gravel, shingle, stones, and quartz. Wind south-west. Heavy
clouds; wind hot.
Sunday, 25th December, Freeling Springs. Wind south; heavy clouds, but no
rain; towards evening changed to south-east. Cool.
Monday, 26th December, Freeling Springs. Got to the bottom of the hole;
washed the stuff, but no gold. Commenced another hole by the side of the
quartz reef, which looks well. In the morning the wind was from the
north; at 10 a.m. it suddenly changed to south, and blew a perfect
hurricane during the whole day, with heavy clouds; but no rain has
fallen.
Tuesday, 27th December, Freeling Springs. The storm continued during the
night, until about 3 o'clock this morning, when a few drops of rain fell,
but not enough to be of any service to me. Bottomed the hole by the side
of the quartz reef: no gold, and I think we shall not be able to sink any
more; our tools are getting worn out. For the rest of the day examined
the quartz reef, in which there is every appearance of gold; I shall stop
the search for it and proceed to the north-east to-morrow, for I think
some rain has fallen in that direction, which will enable me to examine
the country and see if the lake still continues.
Wednesday, 28th December, Freeling Springs. At 7 a.m. started with
Kekwick on a north-east course. At seven miles crossed the Neale, spread
over a large grassy plain four miles broad, and ascended a low ridge of
table-topped hills, stony, with salt-bush and grassed. Crossed another
creek, at twenty miles, with myall and stunted gums running over a plain
in numerous courses. Plenty of grass but no water. After crossing it,
ascended a high peak, which I supposed to be the top of the Hanson range,
but found another long table-topped hill, higher, about three miles
distant. Ascended that, but could see nothing but more table-topped
ranges in the distance. This hill is thirty-five miles from Freeling
Springs. Searched for water, and after some time found a little water in
one of the creeks, where we camped, it being after sundown. The country
from the last creek is not so good, and very stony, so much so that it
has lamed my horse, and nearly worn his shoes through at the tips. The
horses have drunk all the water, and left none for the morning.
Thursday, 29th December, Hanson Range. Started at 6 a.m. on the same
course for another part of the range. At six miles crossed a grassy creek
of several channels, with myall and gum, but no water, running to
north-east, nearly along our line. At seventeen miles struck the same
creek again where it is joined with several others coming from the
west-north-west and north. They are spread over a large broad plain
covered with grass. Searched for water, but could not find any. Crossed
the plains and creeks to a white hill on a north course, and at three
miles reached the top; it was a low chalky cliff on the banks of the
creek. Changed our course to the first hill I had taken. At seven miles
and a half reached the top, which I found very stony. To the north can be
seen the points of three other table-topped hills; to the north-east is a
large stony plain about ten miles broad, beyond which are high sand
hills, and beyond them again, in the far distance, is the luminous
appearance of water. Not being on the highest part of the range I
proceeded two miles to the south-east to get a better view. From here we
could see the creek, winding in a south-east direction, until it reached
the lake, which seemed to be about twenty-five miles off. We could not
distinctly see it, the mirage and sand hills obscuring our view. My horse
having lost both his fore shoes and there being no prospect of water
further on, I was reluctantly obliged to return to the camp. We had seen
a little rain water on the plain, about seven miles back, at which we
decided to camp to-night. Arrived there a little before sundown. My horse
very lame, scarcely able to walk along the stones. I am disappointed that
there is not more rain water; there seems only to have been a slight
shower.
Friday, 30th December, Hanson Range. The horses having strayed some
distance, we did not get a start till half-past seven on a course of 323
degrees, to a white hill, to see whether there are any springs on the
other side; at one mile and a half reached it, but no springs. Changed
our course to a very prominent hill (which I have named Mount Arthur)
bearing 275 degrees, and after crossing two small myall creeks and a
stony plain with salt bush and grass, at ten miles we struck a large
myall and gum creek, coming from the north-west, with some very deep
channels. We went some miles up it, but could find no water, the courses
for the water being too sandy and gravelly to retain it. At twenty-four
miles from the last hill arrived at the summit of Mount Arthur. Changed
course to 195 degrees. At ten miles struck another myall and gum creek of
the same description as the others, coming from the range; no water.
Camped. My horse is nearly done up; I am almost afraid he will not be
able to reach the camp to-morrow.
Saturday, 31st December, Hanson Range. Started shortly after daybreak for
the camp. At fifteen miles struck another myall and gum creek running
into the Neale, and at twenty miles came upon the Neale, which is here
three miles broad. Here we saw some recent native tracks and places where
fires had been. Arrived at the camp at sundown; horses quite done up. I
am sorry that I have been unable to make the lake on this journey; I
could have done it, but should most likely have had to leave my horse; he
never could have done it. I should then have been obliged to walk the
distance back, with all the water dried up. Had I seen the least
indication of water on ahead, I should have gone.
Sunday, 1st January, 1860, Freeling Springs. In the afternoon it became
cloudy. Wind north. No rain.
Monday, 2nd January, Freeling Springs. Having observed a hill on Saturday
that seemed to me a spring, where the Neale comes through the range, I
sent Kekwick to examine it, my eyes being too bad. Sent Muller to examine
some more quartz reefs in which I think gold exists. Towards sundown he
returned with two good specimens, in which I am almost sure there is
gold. The reef is twelve feet wide. Shortly after, Kekwick returned and
reported springs and two large water holes, and numerous smaller ones,
with abundance of permanent water, although slightly brackish. I shall
move up and fix their position as soon as I am satisfied with the search
for gold.
Tuesday, 3rd January, Freeling Springs. Sent Kekwick and Muller to get
some more specimens of quartz. They returned with some in which there
were very good indications of gold. It was useless for us to try any
more, our tools being of no use. The reefs would require to be blasted. I
am afraid there will be no surfacing here. I have done all that lies in
my power to get at the gold; but without proper tools we can do nothing,
so I shall be obliged to give it up, and start to-morrow for the Neale,
to where I sent Kekwick yesterday.
Wednesday, 4th January, Freeling Springs. Started at 8 a.m., and arrived
in about thirteen miles. The large water hole is upwards of a mile long,
with fully forty yards of water: in width, from bank to bank, it is
seventy yards, and upwards of fifteen feet deep; there are large mussel
shells on the banks, and plenty of good feed. All round to the south
there are low sand hills covered with grass. To the east, in some places,
it is stony, with salt-bush, and many broad well-grassed valleys coming
from the Mount Kingston range. About a quarter of a mile to the west of
the large hole there is a course of springs coming from the Kingston
Hills and sand hills, and emptying themselves into the creek. The water
is delicious, and plentiful, and, if opened, these springs will yield an
ample supply for all purposes. To the west are hills, with the creek
coming through them, with water all the way up to where I crossed it in
my return last trip. To the north are stony undulating rises, with
salt-bush and grass.
Thursday, 5th January, The Neale. Examining the country round to the
north and round Mount Harvey. It is poor and stony. On the eastern and
northern sides it becomes bad at three miles from the creek. The country
in the other directions is good, and will make a first-rate run. This, in
connexion with the Mildred and McEllister Springs, will feed any number
of cattle.