Freeling range, and see what that is made of. Started at 7.30 on a
bearing of 84 degrees twenty-two miles. Rock water with plenty of grass.
Gave the horses the rest of the day.
Monday, 6th September, South of Mount Sturt. Started at 8.15 on a bearing
of 84 degrees for twenty-five miles. Changed the bearing to 60 degrees
for three miles to a fine plain covered with grass. Halted. No water.
There are some high hills to the east-north-east, to which I have now
changed my course, and which I conclude to be the Freeling range. Our
journey to-day has been through very scrubby and sandy country,
especially the last fifteen miles. At six miles south there is a high
table-topped hill, which I think is granite. I intended going down to it,
but the country, so far as I could see, was apparently not good, and,
having crossed the tracks of some horses going towards it, and being very
unwell myself, I thought it would be useless my going. Distance to-day,
thirty-eight miles. No water.
Tuesday, 7th September, Freeling Range. Started for the range at 8 on a
bearing of 60 degrees. At eleven miles ascended the south-west hill of
Freeling range, Mount Sturt bearing 266 degrees. Changed the bearing to
96 degrees to a stony hill of granite. Found a little water, and halted
for the remainder of the day. Distance, fifteen miles.
Wednesday, 8th September, Freeling Range. Started at 7.30 for Separation
Camp, bearing 72 degrees. Halted at thirty-three miles. The first
twenty-five miles were mallee scrub with patches of grass; the last eight
miles were over elevated table land, salt bush, and a little grass with a
few patches of scrub, the soil being red, with a few fragments of quartz
and ironstone on the surface. No water.
Thursday, 9th September, Salt-Bush Country. Started at 9.15 on the same
bearing, 72 degrees, fourteen miles; changed to 160 degrees (1.30 p.m.)
two miles and a half; thence 80 degrees three miles to a small creek,
where we can obtain water by digging in the sand. Camped. Distance
to-day, twenty miles. Did not see Separation Camp; it is wrongly placed
on the map.
Friday, 10th September, Small Creek. Started at 9 on a bearing of 110
degrees for Cooroona; at seventeen miles made Cooroona. Camped fifteen
miles beyond.
Saturday, 11th September. Arrived at Mr. Thompson's station, Mount Arden.
I cannot conclude this narrative of my first journey, without
acknowledging that it was with the advice and assistance of my friend Mr.
Finke SOLELY, that I undertook this exploration of the country. I
therefore look upon him as the original pioneer (if I may be allowed so
to express myself) of all my subsequent expeditions, in which our friend
Mr. Chambers afterwards joined.
JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S SECOND EXPEDITION (IN THE VICINITY OF LAKE
TORRENS). APRIL TO JULY, 1859.
Saturday, 2nd April, 1859. Started from Mr. Glen's for St. A'Becket's
Pool, where we camped. This water hole is a large one, and likely to last
a long time. The country around is good--a large salt bush and grassy
plain, with upwards of 300 cattle feeding upon it. Found the native
cucumber growing.
Sunday, 3rd April. Shortly after sunrise started from St. A'Becket's
Pool, over low sand hills with large valleys between, well grassed, as
described by Mr. Parry. Camped about two miles to the north-east of it,
in a polyganum and grassy valley.
Monday, 4th April. The saddles injuring our horses' backs, we must stop
and repair them. Herrgott and I rode to Shamrock Pool. There is still
water there. It may last about a month, but it is not permanent.
Tuesday, 5th April. The horses could not be found before noon. One of
them has lost a shoe, which will require to be put on. It is too late to
start to-day for St. Francis' Ponds, the distance being thirty-two miles,
and no water between. I deem it advisable to remain until to-morrow.
Wednesday, 6th April. Started on a bearing of 330 degrees, and at six
miles came upon a gum creek, with abundance of water, which I believe is
permanent. For fifty yards on each side of the creek there is a great
quantity of polyganum and other water-bushes. On the water there are a
great many ducks, cranes, and water-hens. The water hole is upwards of
three-quarters of a mile long; at the broadest place it is fifty yards in
breadth. There are two trees marked "J.G. and W. Latitude, 30 degrees 4
minutes 1 second." At one mile struck Mr. Parry's tracks; had a view of
the country on the bearing that I intended to steer; saw that it would
lead me into a very rough country, therefore followed his tracks to where
he had camped. Camped south of Mount Delusion, without water. I do not
doubt that there is water further down the creek to the eastward.
Thursday, 7th April. Went to the top of Mount Delusion and took bearings.
Had some difficulty in finding St. Francis' Ponds. Towards sunset we
found them, and, to our great disappointment, quite dry; all the water
had disappeared, except a little in one of the creeks, which was salter
than the sea, and of no use to us. There seems to have been no rain here
this season; I have searched the country all round, but can see no sign
of water. I must return to-morrow morning to the creek that I passed
yesterday. The horses have now been two nights without water; they appear
to feel it very much.
Friday, 8th April. Started back on a straight line, 6.40, for the gum
creek, and arrived at 1.40 p.m., the horses being so much done up that I
must give them two days' rest. I expect they will endure it better next
time; they now know what it is to be without. In our course we crossed
the middle of Mr. Parry's dry lake. It can be crossed at any time, for
there are large courses of slate running through it in a north and south
direction, level with the bed of the lake. The country around St.
Francis' Ponds is as Mr. Parry describes it, with the exception of the
water, which is gone. There is a great deal of Cooper's Creek grass
growing in places. It is my intention to start with one man (as soon as
the horses recover), and endeavour to find water nearer Mount North-west
range. If I can find water east or west of St. Francis I shall then be
able to make the Finniss Spring.
Saturday, 9th April. Resting the horses.
Sunday, 10th April. I intended to have gone to the north to-day to search
for water, but I am so unwell from the effects of the water of this creek
that I am unable to do so. I have been very ill all yesterday and all
night, but I hope I shall be right to-morrow.
Monday, 11th April. I am unable to go and search for water, being too
weak and not able to ride. I have sent Herrgott and Muller to find St.
Stephen's Ponds, and see if there is water; they are to return by the
foot of the range and endeavour to find water there also. I have been
very ill indeed during the night; I have had no sleep for the last two
nights, and I am so weak that I am scarcely able to move.
Tuesday, 12th April. Feel a little better this morning, but still very
unwell.
Wednesday, 13th April. I feel a good deal better. I hope by to-morrow I
shall be all right again. Herrgott did not return until noon to-day. He
reports that there is no water in St. Stephen's Ponds, which I expected;
but he also states that he has found a batch of springs three miles on
this side of the ponds, with abundance of water. They are twelve in
number. I shall go to-morrow with the party to them. I am very glad he
has found them. There will now be no difficulty in taking stock to
Chambers Creek. From this camp to the springs will be the longest journey
to be encountered in a season like this, in which so little rain has
fallen. After rain has fallen there will be no difficulty at all. The
native cucumber grows about here.
Thursday, 14th April. Started at 8.10. The country travelled over was
fine salt-bush country, but there was no water on our course, although we
disturbed numerous pigeons and other birds. There are three table-topped
hills to the east of the end of our north line; I think they are those
within a short distance of which Major Warburton mentions that he found
water. It would take me too much to the east of my course to examine them
at present. I should have gone that way if Herrgott had not found those
twelve springs, which we hope to make early to-morrow morning, and then
proceed to the Finniss Springs. Camped on the east side of Decoy Hill,
without water.
Friday, 15th April, East Side of Decoy Hill. At daybreak despatched
Campbell for the horses. At 7.30 he returned with only five, and said
that he found them on the track, going back for the water from which we
have come, and that the others had left the tracks and gone west towards
the hills. I immediately despatched Muller on horseback to track and
bring them back, and I sent the others by Herrgott to get water at the
springs. Sundown: no appearance of the horses. They must have gone back.
If they have, it will be the middle of the night before Muller can be
here. It is vexing to be delayed thus with the brutes.
Saturday, 16th April, Same Place. Muller and the horses have not yet
come. I must go to the top of Decoy Hill to take some bearings. At 9.30
returned to the camp, and found Muller had just returned, but no horses;
he had followed upon their tracks until they crossed a stony hill, where
he lost them, and, on purpose to find them again, he tied the mare to a
bush; she broke loose, and would not allow him to catch her until she got
to the water. It was then sundown; he remained there during the greater
part of the night to see if the others would come in: they did not, and
he therefore came up to inform me of what had occurred. He was without
fire, blankets, or anything to eat. I did not pity him; he ought to have
been more careful. I had several times warned him not to leave the mare
insecurely tied, or she would be off. I gave him a fresh horse, and sent
him and Campbell off to follow them up to wherever they go, and not to
come back without them. It is most dreadfully annoying to be kept back in
this manner, all through the carelessness of one man: he must have been
quite close to them when the mare got away. They were short hobbled, and
I had looked at them at half-past two in the morning, to see if they were
all right, and found them feeding quietly, so that they could not have
gone far. Sundown: no appearance of the horses. I feel much better
to-day.
Sunday, 17th April, Same Place. Still neither horses nor men. At 1.30
they arrived; my men had gone over to the range, and had searched every
creek, but without success. When found, the runaway animals were standing
on a rise looking very miserable and at a loss what to do; they had
skirted the hill as far down as Mount Delusion. The men took them to the
last water, remained there through the night, and left for this place
this morning. I will give them an hour's rest, and go to the springs
to-night. Arrived at the springs at sundown; they are about nine miles
from Decoy Hill.
Monday, 18th April, Same Place. Resting horses. I went to the top of
Mount Attraction, accompanied by Herrgott, to see what appearance the
country had to the north of west. I observed a high red table-topped hill
bearing 276 degrees from this point, for which I started in search of
water. I had a good view of the country all round; it seems very low to
the westward with low ranges and valleys between; plenty of salt bush and
grass. There is copper with the ironstone on the top of Mount Attraction;
native copper is adhering to the sides of the large pieces of ironstone.
No water. Changed our course to north one mile and a half, thence to
north-east five miles, thence to the springs, but could neither find
water nor Major Warburton's tracks. To-day's journey forty-five miles.
Arrived at the springs after dark.
Tuesday, 19th April, Springs. To the south of our tracks yesterday there
was the appearance of a gum creek, and I think it advisable to send
Herrgott to-day to examine it for water. It would be a great advantage
for stock going to the new country. Seen from a little distance these
springs, at which we are camped, resemble a salt lagoon covered with
salt, which however is not the case; it is the white quartz which gives
them that appearance. There are seven small hillocks from which flow the
springs; their height above the plain is about eight feet, and they are
surrounded with a cake of saltpetre, but the water is very good indeed,
and there is an unlimited supply. Herrgott has taken a sketch of them. He
has returned from examining the gum creek, but can find no water. I must
push on to-morrow for Finniss Springs, and trust to find water on the
way.
Wednesday, 20th April, Same Place. Started at 7.30 on a bearing of 275
degrees over a stony, undulating country with plenty of grass and salt
bush, but no water. At twenty miles we saw a smoke raised by the blacks
to the south of our line, under the range. Camped at 5.15 under a low
range about thirty feet high and very perpendicular, running nearly
north-east and south-west. Distance to-day, thirty-three miles.
Thursday, 21st April. Started at daybreak this morning. Same course. Cut
Major Warburton's tracks at two miles, and changed to his course, 252
degrees. At one mile, saw Finniss Springs a mile and a half to the south
of us; went down to them and camped. There is an immense quantity of
water flowing from them. I shall raise a large cone of stones upon the
hill, which is very prominent and can be seen from a long distance.
Friday, 22nd April, Finniss Springs. Went to the top of Hermit Hill,
whence I obtained a very extensive view of Lake Torrens from north-west
to north-east. Mount Hermit is surrounded by low hills, and in the far
distance there seems to be rising ground. To the south are broken hills,
the termination of the Mount North-west range. I shall examine that part
of the country to-morrow. Between this and the lake (Eyre) to the north
the country is very rough--broken cliffs, with sand; the good country
does not extend more than three miles. The springs are very numerous all
round this mount, and seem to drain into the lake; they give out an
immense quantity of water, and there are many streams of water running
from them. The ground is covered round about the springs with a cake of
soda and saltpetre. I intended to have moved on to Gregory Creek this
afternoon, but took the precaution to send my stockman to see in what
state the water was. He reports the water in the creek to be quite salt,
and many of the small fish dead; he also found some very perfect fossil
shells, the mussel and oyster; they have now become a solid limestone;
they were found in a large circular piece of limestone.
Saturday, 23rd April, Finniss Springs. Started at 8 a.m. with Herrgott to
examine the country south of this. Between this and the range the land is
good in places. It is a little rotten and stony, but the range is a
beautiful grass country to the very top. In the creeks the grass and
other plants are growing luxuriantly, but we could find no water. I was
unable to prosecute the search as far as I wished, in consequence of my
horse having lost a shoe and becoming quite lame, which forced me to
return to the camp, where we arrived at 9 p.m. The view from a high
conical hill of white granite with black spots at the north-west point of
the range, is very extensive, except to the south, which is limited. We
saw smoke in one of the creeks to the east; but as I was anxious to
examine the creek to the south-west, which we saw from the top of the
conical hill, I did not go to where the smoke was rising, thinking that
the blacks might only be hunting. I therefore crossed the hills to the
creek over a good feeding country, timbered with box and gum-trees. We
expected to find water in it, from the great number of birds of all
descriptions that were flying about; we followed it down, but were
unsuccessful, although the birds continued all the way. There must be
water about the hills in some place. At sundown, my horse becoming very
lame, I was forced reluctantly to return. The flow of the waters is
northward into North Lake Torrens. On Monday I shall start again to the
south-west, and leave the examination of the range to the south-east
until my return.
Sunday, 24th April, Finniss Springs. Latitude, 29 degrees 33 minutes 30
seconds. Rested.
Monday, 25th April, Finniss Springs. As it seemed likely to rain, in
which case the country would be very soft, I started at 9.30 on a bearing
of 242 degrees for Chambers Creek. After three miles of gravelly soil and
scanty feed we came to the banks of the two creeks passed by Major
Warburton, splendidly grassed, but the water very salt. They flow into
Lake Torrens. After leaving these creeks we had four miles of sand hills,
very rich with feed, thence over some stony ground to the creek, all
good; my course brought me about three-quarters of a mile to the south of
the creek, which I expected. Distance from the springs to this water
hole, two miles; this is a very long water hole, with plenty of water in
it, and the feed good. We saw some fresh tracks of natives to-day, but
did not meet with any of them.
Tuesday, 26th April, Chambers Creek. I intend to remain here to-day to
fix this place and examine the country about it. Latitude, 29 degrees 39
minutes 9 seconds. I sent Campbell (my stockman) in one direction, and
Muller (the botanist) in another; they report quantities of water, also a
great deal of salt water, with plenty of salt for the use of stations,
with abundance of feed. The stockman saw numerous fresh tracks, but did
not see any natives. The fires were still burning. Muller saw an old man,
a woman, and a child. They were very much frightened, and when he
approached, they called out "Pompoy!" and moved their hands for him not
to come any nearer. As they seemed quite unwilling to hold any
conversation, he left them.
Wednesday, 27th April, Chambers Creek. Started at sunrise this morning,
accompanied by my botanist. After travelling thirty miles in a fruitless
search for water, we camped upon a large stony plain with plenty of
vegetation. The horses were very much tired by reason of the heavy sand.
We could see no sign of Lake Torrens. Latitude, 29 degrees 53 minutes 58
seconds.
Thursday, 28th April, Large Stony Plain. Saddled by break of day. Changed
my course to see if the water is still at Yarra Wirta. In order to avoid
the heavy sand hills, which will not do for the horses if there is no
water, I steered for the creek, struck it a little to the north of where
I crossed it on my former expedition, and followed it down. Passed my
former encampment, and found no water there, but on following it down to
where I considered it permanent, I found water still there. I shall give
the horses the afternoon to recruit, and start early in the morning.
Distance to-day, twenty-three miles.
Friday, 29th April, Chambers Creek. Started at sunrise for about a mile
to that part of the north shore of the lake opposite to where the Yarra
Wirta empties itself into it. The country close to the lake is very stony
and scanty of feed; there is some water in it, but it is very salt; a few
salt creeks run into it, but no great body of water. I ascended a hill
for which I had been steering, and obtained an observation of the sun and
bearings. Latitude, 30 degrees 8 minutes 11 seconds. There is no
appearance of any lake between this point and Mount Deception; it appears
to be a stony plain with some ridges of sand hills. This hill, which I
have named Mount Polly, for distinction, is the easternmost of the
flat-topped hills on the north side of the lake, and is a spur from the
Stuart range. It is very stony, and there is grass nearly to the top; it
is very level, and extends for six miles in a north-westerly direction. I
saw that there was little prospect of my obtaining water to-night; and
knowing that the natives had been seen within a few miles of the camp, I
felt anxious about the safety of my party. I determined to proceed
towards the camp on a north-westerly course. Arrived at the creek at
11.30 p.m. and found all right; the natives had paid them a visit, as I
anticipated, but my people could get no information from them. They were
six in number; one was very forward, wishing to examine everything. I had
left orders that, if they came, they were not to be allowed to come near
the camp, but were to be met a little distance from it. They remained for
some time, and then stole off one by one without being perceived, and
were out of sight in a moment. The one that remained to the last in his
flight did not forget to carry along with him a piece of blanket that had
been a saddle-cloth, and which happened to be lying outside the camp.
Saturday, 30th April, Chambers Creek. Sent Muller and my stockman to
build a cone of stones upon the highest of the three table-topped hills,
for the base line of the survey. They are three remarkable hills close
together; two only can be seen coming from the south and from the
north-east. Latitude, 29 degrees 40 minutes 27 seconds. From the hill the
men saw a number of native fires smoking to the westward on the creek,
but have not seen any natives.
Sunday, 1st May, Chambers Creek. This morning we had a heavy dew. Went to
the top of the three table-tops, and had a fine view of Mount Hamilton
and the lagoon where the springs are, and the other hills; they are the
same hills that I saw on my north-west course, when on my last journey.
Monday, 2nd May, Chambers Creek. Sent Muller and Campbell to build a cone
of stones on Mount Strangways, which I have fixed as a south point of my
base line. The mean of all the observations that I have got to-day makes
the latitude to be 29 degrees 39 minutes 15 seconds.
Tuesday, 3rd May, Chambers Creek. Spent the day examining the
neighbourhood for water, and in taking numerous bearings.
Wednesday, 4th May, Chambers Creek. I intend to move to-day to the large
water holes westward, where I first struck the creek. The horses having
strayed a long way off this morning, made it 11 o'clock before we got a
start. About four miles from last night's camp the chain of large water
holes commences, and continues beyond to-night's camp. They are indeed
most splendid water holes--not holes, but very long ponds; they are
nearly one continuous sheet of water, and the scenery is beautiful. I am
sorry I did not name it a river in my former journal. I must bring my
survey up to this night's camp to-morrow. It is very cloudy to-night,
with a strong wind from the south-west, from which quarter the clouds are
coming. The country is a little stony, but well grassed.
Thursday, 5th May, Chambers Creek. Moved the camp to a better situation.
Ascended a hill, got some bearings to fix it, and built a cone of stones
upon it. I have had the creek, which joins this, run up for three miles
to the sources to-day. There is no more permanent water. There are an
immense number of small fish in the ponds, and on the banks there is a
shrub growing that tastes and smells like cinnamon; we happened to stir
up the sugar in a pannikin of tea with a small twig of the bush, and it
left quite the flavour of it in the tea. I have had Herrgott to take
sketches of some of the ponds, also of the fish and other remarkable
things. It has been rather cloudy to-day, and I could not depend upon my
observations. There are numerous tracks of natives about, but we have not
seen any of them; we have also found some new plants in the creek.
Friday, 6th May, Chambers Creek. Moved further up the creek on the south
side to the last water that we knew of. It is a hole of rain water, very
large, and will last a long time, being well sheltered by gum-trees and
other shrubs.
Saturday, 7th May, Chambers Creek. Sent Muller to see if there is any
more water to the west, and went myself to the top of a small hill, and
built a cone of stones to connect this point with the last point. Muller
returned after dark, and reported that there was no more permanent water.
I shall start to the north to-morrow.
Sunday, 8th May, Chambers Creek. Started to the north over the range,
which is rather difficult to get the horses up and down. On the top it is
very stony, with salt bush and scanty grass. Crossed the Margaret and a
salt creek, in which there is water, some of which is salt and some
brackish, but not unfit for the use of cattle. There is abundance of feed
all round. We arrived at Hamilton Springs a little before sundown.
Distance, twenty-one miles.