to-day. I shall also require to build a cone of stones upon Mount
Hamilton (the one built by Major Warburton having fallen down), and get
an observation of the same. Latitude, 29 degrees 27 minutes 37 seconds.
The springs are certainly very remarkable, and Major Warburton gives a
very good description of them.
Tuesday, 10th May, Mount Hamilton. Started for the Beresford Springs.
Arrived at Mount Hugh at 11 o'clock, seven miles distant from Mount
Hamilton, and, as I anticipated, found a number of splendid springs,
giving out a fine stream of water, not the least brackish. The hill from
which this stream issues is one hundred feet above the level of the
plain, the water coming from the very top. My horse got bogged on the
top, and I had some difficulty in getting him out, but I did so at last
without injuring him. Started from the mount at 12.30, and, after three
miles and a half, arrived at Beresford Springs. The Beresford Springs are
nothing in comparison to the others; there are only two that are running,
but they are very good. The country travelled over to-day has been very
well grassed, with salt bush; take it altogether I have not seen better
runs in the colony, and in the driest summer the furthest distance from
water will not be above five miles at the most, but the feed is so
abundant that they would not require to go so far. On that account they
will feed double and treble the number of stock that the runs down the
country do. At two miles on this side of the Hugh Springs discovered
another batch of springs with plenty of water running from them; there
are about eight or nine of them very good; those springs have not been
visited by Major Warburton. We examined all round, but could find no
tracks. I have named them the Elizabeth Springs. There is enough water
running to drive a flour-mill in two or three places. They are really
remarkable springs--such a height above the level of the plain; I saw
them from a hill on Chambers Creek (the Twins). From whence do they
derive their supply of water, to cause them to rise to such a height? It
must be from some high ranges to the north-west, or a large body of fresh
water lying on elevated ground. This is another strange feature of the
mysterious interior of Australia. I shall remain here until after 12
to-morrow, to get an observation of the sun to fix this hill. I shall
return to Mount Hamilton, and proceed to examine the country west of
North Lake Torrens, for one of the east runs, which will complete my
survey of them, and I shall despatch thence a messenger to Oratunga.
Wednesday, 11th May, Elizabeth Springs. Latitude, 29 degrees 17 minutes
43 seconds. I omitted to mention yesterday that, two miles before we
reached Beresford Hill, we crossed Pasley Ponds and saw one of the
Major's camps. The water is brackish, but not bad. The white deposit
round these springs, and also round the Elizabeth, is soda. In returning,
I examined the Coward Springs; the water is good, and running. There is a
plentiful supply. It was dark when I arrived at Mount Hamilton. Saw four
natives to-day, but they gave us a wide berth; they do not like to come
near us.
Thursday, 12th May, Mount Hamilton. Some of the horses require shoeing,
and I wish to get another observation of the sun. I shall remain here
to-day, and examine the country to the north-east. About seven miles in
that direction is the salt creek of Major Warburton. The country is of a
light sandy soil covered with grass.
Friday, May 13th, Mount Hamilton. Started to the eastward, to complete
the survey of the runs, and see if there are any more springs. To the
south of east, about four miles, we discovered four springs not seen by
the Major; there is a plentiful supply of water, and would be more if
they were opened. One is choked up with reeds, but the other two are
running. Saw some natives; they seemed frightened at first, but were
induced to come close up: they were very much amused at our equipments.
Two had seen or heard of whites before; they knew the name of horse, but
no more; they call water courie, and some of their words very much
resemble those of the natives in Port Lincoln. We could make nothing of
them--they repeat every word of the question we ask them. They followed
us over to the Margaret, and took us to some fresh-water springs in the
creek, the water of which is very good. There is a quantity of reeds
growing round them, also tea-tree. From this we followed the creek to the
north, thence north-east towards the lake, but the water being too
brackish, I returned to the springs, the natives walking with us all the
time; they seemed very inoffensive. In following down the creek, another
native joined us from the creek, carrying a net in which were some small
fish; the net was a hoop one, well made.
Saturday, May 14th, The Margaret Creek. The morning very cloudy; every
appearance of rain. Saddled and proceeded in search of Emerald Spring, on
a north course. At seven miles made Mr. Babbage's old camp on a sand
hill. Camped a little way from it. I did not know the position of the
spring, but Herrgott informed me that it was three miles to the west. It
commenced raining before we started, has rained all the way up, and is
still doing so; it is a very light rain, but the wind is very strong and
cold from the south-west. Intended to have brought up my plan, but the
rain and wind prevent me.
Sunday, 15th May, Mr. Babbage's Old Camp. It cleared off during the
night, but the clouds have come up again this morning and look very
threatening. Sent Herrgott to find the spring. The wind is still from the
same quarter, and too strong for me to do anything to the plan, which is
a great annoyance. I will finish the survey of the runs from this place,
and send Campbell back to Oratunga with the plan. Herrgott did not return
until after sundown: he could not find the spring.
Monday, 16th May, Same Place. Sent Muller to the west; he returned at 10
o'clock, having found the spring about two miles and a half distant from
the camp; it is not hot, but a little warmer than milk-warm. There is a
good stream running from it, and the water is excellent; to me it has a
mineral taste, very good. There were some small fish lying dead on the
bank, near the mouth; they seemed to have been left there by the retiring
of the flood--they were quite dried up. I intended to have taken some
with me, but they were too dry--nothing but skin and bone. The creek
empties itself into the lake, about a mile north from where Chambers
Creek goes into it.
Tuesday, 17th May, Same Place. Again very cloudy, with a little rain.
Busy finishing the survey. Could not obtain an observation of the sun.
Wind still very strong.
Wednesday, 18th May, Same Place. Weather clearing up. Engaged with
survey.
Thursday, 19th May, Same Place. Finishing tracings, etc.
Friday, 20th May, Same Place. At sunrise started Campbell for Oratunga
with tracings, letter, etc., with orders to proceed to Finniss Springs,
thence to Herrgott Springs, thence to St. A'Becket's Pool, thence to
Mount Glenns, thence to Mount Stuart, and thence to Oratunga, taking six
days to perform the journey. Preparing my other plans for a start
to-morrow for the north-west, to see what the Davenport range is.
Latitude, 29 degrees 23 minutes 20 seconds.
Saturday, 21st May, Same Place. Started at 8 o'clock on a bearing of 310
degrees for the Davenport range. At twenty-two miles changed our course
to examine a large lagoon to the south-west of us, bearing 238 degrees.
At two miles reached the lagoon, which we examined for springs, but found
none. I suppose it receives Major Warburton's salt creek. It is caked
with a crust of salt, and is dry; it is seven miles long by three broad,
running north-west and south-west. On the south-west side it is bounded
by steep cliffs, and high sand hills on the top. Changed to 310 degrees,
our original course. Came upon some rain water at four miles, and camped
for the night. Distance to-day, twenty-eight miles.
Sunday, 22nd May, Rain Water. Sent Herrgott to examine the south-west
side of the lagoon which we passed last night, with orders to overtake me
by 11.30, so that I may get an observation of the sun at noon. The horses
having strayed some distance during the night, our start was delayed
until 9.15. Started on the same bearing as yesterday, 310 degrees.
Stopped at 11.20 for Herrgott to come with the instruments, but he did
not come up until 1.15, so that I lost my observation. I had told him, if
there was no appearance of springs not to go far, but to return
immediately; instead of which he went round the lagoon. Camped on a stony
rise, with a little wood. Distance to-day, twenty-one miles.
Monday, 23rd May, Stony Rise. Started towards the Davenport range. The
sand hills again commenced with beautiful feed upon them--low, with broad
valleys; they continued for five miles, when the stony plain again
commenced. The highest part of the range seems to be at the north-eastern
point, which has the appearance of a detached hill. At three miles and a
quarter from the last of the sand hills we saw the Douglas, and changed
our bearing to 328 degrees 30 minutes. At one mile and a quarter struck
the creek, but found no water in it. There were a number of gums, but not
very large, also plenty of myalls there. The bed of the creek is bad, and
will not retain water. We followed it down for three miles to see if
there was water; but no sign of it, the creek still continuing broad and
sandy. I was obliged to return to where I struck it, because it was
nearly sundown, and I had found a little rain water about a mile to the
south, which would do for the horses in the morning.
Tuesday, 24th May, The Douglas. Herrgott's horse in want of shoes. Could
not get a start until late. Found a little more rain water in a clay-pan.
If I can find no water near the range, I shall have to fall back upon
Strangway Springs. I am anxious to see what is on the other side of the
range, or I would run this creek down. There are numerous tracks of
natives about the creek; we have also seen three fires three or four days
old. Latitude, 28 degrees 45 minutes 4 seconds. Started at 12.30 on a
bearing of 313 degrees for the highest point of the range east, over
stony table land. The creek runs in the same direction for four miles, it
then turns to the westward, and is lost sight of among some hills. At ten
miles struck a stony box-tree creek; its bed was sand and gravel, but no
water. At 11.30 descended from the table land, and camped at a gum creek
at sundown; the bed the same as the last, and no water. There were
numerous native foot-tracks here also. I am sorry I could not reach the
range to-night, but we had some very bad ground to travel over, and no
water.
Wednesday, 25th May, Dry Gum Creek. Examined the creek for water, but
found none. Started on the same course as yesterday, 313 degrees, for the
north-east highest point, which I suppose to be the Mount Margaret of
Major Warburton. Native tracks seen in the creek. There may be water some
distance down the creek, but here it is too sandy to retain it. At four
miles struck another gum creek in turning round the south side of the
range; it was of the same description as the others, too sandy to hold
water. Proceeded towards the highest point of the range, and obtained an
observation of the sun within a mile and a half of the mount. Left the
horses in charge of Muller and ascended the mount, which was very
difficult; it took us an hour to go up, and three-quarters of an hour to
come down. The hill is composed of a greenish slate, lying horizontally
at the base, and courses of quartz and granite, with ironstone; but I can
see nothing of Major Warburton's quartz cliffs; they must be more to the
south-west. The range has a very peculiar appearance from a short
distance off; it seems to be an immense number of rugged conical hills
all thrown together. From the top, the view to the north-west was hidden
by a higher point of the range. To the north-north-west there is another
range, about twenty miles distant, apparently higher than this, running
south-west and north-east. To the north is another far-distant range; to
the east, broken hill and stony plain, with a number of clay-pans. A
number of creeks run to the eastward from this range; they become gum
creeks further down, but in and close to the range they have myall
bushes, and other shrubs. No water to be obtained in this range. Changed
my course to the north-east to examine a white clay-pan that I thought
might contain some fresh water. At three miles came upon it, and was very
much disappointed to find it salt. This being the second day that the
horses have been without water, I must give up the search for springs and
return to one mile south of the Douglas, where we had found a little rain
water. It being nearly sundown, I made for the last large gum creek,
striking it lower down, also cutting the other creeks between, hoping to
find water in some, but there was none. Made the large gum creek at 10
o'clock. Camped for the night. Horses very much done up, in consequence
of the ground that we have been travelling over being so rotten and
stony. The country is not good, nor the range; but at three miles to the
east it becomes less stony and better grassed. No water.
Thursday, 26th May, Large Gum Creek. Started at daylight for beyond the
Douglas. At 3 o'clock arrived at water. Horses so much done up that I
shall require to give them two days' rest, if the water will hold so
long, and then I must return to the Strangway Springs, as we know that to
be permanent water. There are some heavy clouds coming up from the
south-west, which I hope will bring rain.
Friday, 27th May, The Douglas. Rain all gone after a slight shower, which
did not assist me much. Very sorry for it.
Saturday, 28th May, The Douglas. Horses looking better this morning, so I
will give them this day also. I have sent Muller down the creek to the
eastward, to see if there is any water in it. I should have gone again
to-day to the Davenport range, to see if I could find the quartz reefs by
striking it more to the south-west, but it would be too much for the
horses, which are my mainstay, and this water will not last longer than
to-day; it is going very fast. I do wish to goodness it would rain, for I
do hate going back. Muller returned at sundown. He has been about twelve
miles down the creek, but can find no water. It still continued sandy. He
shot three new parrots.
Sunday, 29th May, The Douglas. Not being satisfied with my hurried
examination of the range, I shall make another attempt to-day, and
endeavour to find water. If we do not succeed we must fall back upon the
springs. Started on a course of west-north-west. Crossed the Douglas
three times. It turned to the south-west, but I continued my course, over
low hills and valleys, with plenty of feed, with quartz, ironstone, and
granite. At fifteen miles changed a little more to the north towards a
rise. The country becomes very broken and rough, but still plenty of
grass. At twenty miles crossed the upper part of the gum creek that I
camped on on the 25th instant. The banks are nearly perpendicular cliffs
of slate. Followed it up for two miles, but no water. I continued my
course for the rising ground. At six miles I found that I was getting
upon high table land; so, as the sun was nearly down, I returned to the
creek, where there is some green feed for the horses, as they will be
without water to-night. It was after sundown before I reached the creek
and camped. I have named this creek Davenport Creek, after the Honourable
Mr. Davenport, M.L.C.
Monday, 30th May, Davenport Creek. Started at sunrise determined to
follow down the creek, for I think there must be water somewhere before
it enters the plain. The flow is to the east. At five miles came upon a
beautiful spring in the bed of the creek, for which I am truly thankful.
I have named this The Spring of Hope. It is a little brackish, not from
salt, but soda, and runs a good stream of water. I have lived upon far
worse water than this: to me it is of the utmost importance, and keeps my
retreat open. I can go from here to Adelaide at any time of the year, and
in any sort of season. Camped for the rest of the day. Latitude, 28
degrees 33 minutes 34 seconds.
Tuesday, 31st May, The Spring of Hope. Shoeing horses, and repairing
various things.
Wednesday, 1st June, The Spring of Hope. Not being satisfied with my
hurried view of the salt clay-pan that I visited on the 25th ultimo, I
have sent Muller to-day to examine it for springs, before I proceed to
the north-west. On a further examination of this water, I find a very
large portion of magnesia in it, and also salt, but very little. Muller
has returned, having been down the creek, and, as I expected, has found a
small spring of very good water on the banks of the salt creek. I expect
there will be others. I shall move down there to-morrow and examine it. I
expect we have fallen upon the line of springs again, which I hope will
continue towards the north. No rain seems to have fallen here for a long
time.
Thursday, 2nd June, The Spring of Hope. Started at 9 o'clock for the
springs, and arrived there in the afternoon. Travelled over a stony but
very good feeding country, which became better as we approached the
springs. There is a creek with a large water hole, and around the small
hills are numerous springs. On the banks of the creek and round the
springs an immense quantity of rushes, bulrushes, and other water-plants
are growing. The quantity of land they cover is very great, amounting to
several square miles. Some of the springs are choked up, others are
running, though not so active as those further to the south. Round about
them there is a thin crust of saltpetre, magnesia, and salt. The water of
these springs is very good, but that of the creek is a little brackish,
but will do very well for cattle. Some of the holes in the creek are
rather salt. There is enough of good water for the largest station in the
colony. Round the small hill, where I am now camped, there are twelve
springs, and the water is first-rate. I have named them Hawker Springs,
after G.C. Hawker, Esquire, M.L.A.* (* Now the Honourable G.C. Hawker,
Speaker of the House of Assembly at Adelaide.) The hills are composed of
slate, mica, quartz (resembling those of the gold country), and
ironstone. Latitude, 28 degrees 24 minutes 17 seconds. One of the horses
seems to be very unwell to-day; he has endeavoured to lie down two or
three times during the journey, but I hope he will be better by the
morning.
Friday, 3rd June, Hawker Springs. I find that the horse is too unwell to
proceed. I shall give him another day, for fear I should lose him
altogether. I sent Muller to see if there are any springs round the hill
about six miles to the east. He states that the creek flows past that
hill, and on towards other hills of the same kind. The springs continue
to within half a mile of the hill, where he found two large springs
running over, covered with long reeds. I do not doubt but that they still
continue on towards the lake, (wherever that may be), which I intend to
examine on my return.
Saturday, 4th June, Hawker Springs. This morning the horse does not look
much better, but still I must push on. Started at 8 towards the highest
point of the next range. At one mile struck a gum creek coming from the
Davenport range, and running to the north of east; the bed sandy and
grassy. At four miles another gum creek of the same description, with the
gum-trees stunted. At eight miles and a half struck three creeks joining
at about a quarter of a mile to the east; the centre one is gum, and the
other two myall. At twelve miles changed my course to 29 degrees to
examine three dark-coloured hills, where I think there will be springs.
At a mile and a quarter came upon a small batch of springs round the
north side of the hills in a broad grassy valley, with plenty of good
water. Changed my course again to 318 degrees towards the highest point
of the range. At one mile a myall and gum creek; at three miles another
gum creek; at seven miles a very large and broad gum creek, spread out
into numerous channels. I have not the least doubt but there is water
above and below, judging from the number of tracks of natives and emus
that have been up and down the creek. As this is the largest creek that I
have passed, and is likely to become as good as Chambers Creek, which it
very much resembles, I have called it The Blyth, after the Honourable
Arthur Blyth. I have named the range to the east The Hanson Range, after
the Honourable R.D. Hanson. At nine miles and a half attained the highest
point of the range, and built a cone of stones thereon, and have named it
Mount Younghusband, after the Honourable William Younghusband. From it I
had a good view of the surrounding country, which seems to be plentifully
supplied with springs. To the north-west is another isolated range like
this; I should think it is about seven hundred feet high. I have named it
Mount Kingston, after the Honourable G.S. Kingston, Speaker of the House
of Assembly. To the north the broken ranges continue, and in the distance
there is a long flat-topped range, broken in some places. It seems to be
closing upon my course on the last bearing. I cannot judge of the
distance, the mirage being so great. Descended from the mount, and
proceeded on a bearing of 336 degrees towards a spring that I saw from
the top. As we were rounding the mount to the east, we found eight
springs before we halted, in a distance of three miles; some were
running, and others were choked up, but soft and boggy. At dark arrived
at another batch of springs--not those that I intended going to--they are
on the banks of a small creek, close to and coming from the range; they
are not so active as the others, and taste a little brackish; they are
coated with soda, saltpetre, and salt. The horse seems to be very ill; he
has again attempted to lie down two or three times. I cannot imagine what
is the matter with him.
Sunday, 5th June, Mount Younghusband. I must remain where I am to-day;
the horse is so bad that he cannot proceed; he neither eats nor drinks. I
have sent Muller to the west side of the mount to see the extent of the
springs; they are on the banks of a creek which has brackish water in it,
large and deep, and a great quantity of rushes. The water comes from the
limestone banks which are covered with soda. He rode round the mount: it
is all the same, and the feed is splendid right to the top of the mount.
It is a wonderful country, scarcely to be believed. I have had one of the
springs opened to-day, and the water to-night tastes excellent; it could
not be better. Native tracks about; I am surprised we see none of them;
we are passing old fires constantly. Latitude, 28 degrees 1 minute 32
seconds.