hills to cross, and being anxious to meet with the gum creek that the
blacks have talked about, I have determined to proceed to-day, but if I
do not find it on this course I shall turn to the south. Started at eight
a.m. on a bearing of 122 degrees. At five miles, one mile to the south is
a large reedy swamp. At fourteen miles changed the bearing to 135 degrees
to the head of a swamp, two miles and a half, found it dry, a large
clay-pan about three miles in circumference. I am obliged to halt, the
horses are very tired and want rest; and there being plenty of beautiful
green feed about, I have halted without water. Our journey has been
through a very thick mulga scrub and sand hills, very heavy travelling.
The trees in the scrub are of a different description to any that I have
seen; they grow high and very crooked, without branches until near the
top, and with a rough, ragged bark; seven or eight seem to spring from
one root. The wood is very tough and heavy, and burns a long time, giving
out a glowing heat. The leaves resemble the mulga, but are of a darker
colour and smaller size. The native name is Moratchee. Shot a wallaby,
and had him for dinner. They are very wild, no getting within shot of
them, which is unfortunate, as our provisions are getting rather short.
From the number of native tracks about, this would seem to be their
season for hunting in the sand hills, which accounts for everything being
so wild. We saw five turkeys yesterday, but could not get within shot of
them. All the water seems to drain into the reedy swamp and clay-pans. I
shall go no further to the east on this course, for I can see no
inducement. I shall go south to-morrow, and see what that produces; if I
cross no large creek within forty-five miles in that direction, I shall
then direct my course for the north-west of Fowler's Bay to see what is
there. Distance to-day, sixteen miles.
Monday, 27th July, Sand Hills and Dense Scrub. Left our camp at 9.20 a.m.
on a southerly course, 182 degrees. At thirteen miles we camped at some
rain water to give the horses a little rest. We have come through a very
thick scrub of mulga, with broken sand hills and a few low rises of lime
and ironstone. We have seen two or three pines for the first time, and a
few black oaks. No appearance of a change of country. From a high sand
ridge I could see a long way to the north-east, seemingly all a dense
scrub. The grey mare is unwell again. Distance to-day, thirteen miles.
Tuesday, 27th July, Sandy Undulations. Started at 9 a.m. on the same
bearing as yesterday, 182 degrees. At twenty-one miles changed our course
to 235 degrees to some gum-trees. The first part of our journey the scrub
became lower and more open, with limestone and sand rises at intervals,
and with a good deal of grass in places. The last ten miles the mulga
scrub was so dense that it was with difficulty we managed to get through.
We have seen no water on this day's route, except that in the lagoon we
are now camped at, and which is as salt as the sea. There is another
large lagoon about a mile to the westward of us, which I will examine
to-morrow to see if it gives rise to any creek. Distance to-day,
twenty-two miles.
Wednesday, 28th July, Sand Hills. Started at 9 a.m. on a bearing of 283
degrees for two miles to examine the other lagoon, which is about three
miles long, water salt. Changed our course to 182 degrees for ten miles
to a large lake crossing our course. Changed our bearing to 240 degrees,
and at four miles changed to 270 degrees, crossing some horse-tracks
going towards the large lake. This seems to be a country of salt lagoons,
for we passed three, and have seen a great many more. The large one that
crossed our south course is evidently the head of Lake Gairdner. I could
see it winding away in that direction. We have now got upon a plain
slightly undulating with thick scrub and the unceasing mulga, intermixed
with a few black oaks; no signs of water, no creeks. I intend to proceed
north of west to intersect any creek or country that may come from the
good country that we found on our south-east course, and the land of
kangaroos; there is no hope of anything here. Camped without water.
Distance to-day, twenty miles.
Thursday, 29th July, Mulga Plain, West of Lake Gairdner. Our course
to-day is 310 degrees. Left our camp at 8.30, and accomplished twenty
miles of the same scrubby plain, slightly undulating. Plenty of grass,
but no water. Same description of country as on the 18th instant.
Friday, 30th July, Mulga Plain. Started at 7.35 on same course, 310
degrees. The scrub is so dense that I cannot see above one hundred yards
ahead, and sometimes not that. During the night some swans and two ducks
flew over, apparently from Lake Gairdner, and going in our direction. At
ten miles, having met with some rain water, we halted, for the horses had
been three nights without it. I have given them the rest of the day to
drink their fill. This seems to be a continuation of the stony plain we
crossed on our south-eastern line. The country appears open to the south,
but no sign of any permanent water. Forster bakes the last of our flour
this afternoon--the last of our provisions. Distance to-day, ten miles.
Saturday, 31st July, South Stony Plain. Left at 8.30 on the same bearing,
310 degrees. At ten miles we ascended a low range running north and
south. We did not see a drop of water all day. Our course was over a
gradually rising plain, well grassed at intervals, with plenty of salt
bush, and with stone on the surface, composed of quartz, ironstone, and
the hard white flinty stone so frequently met with. The scrub has nearly
ceased. The dip of the country is south. During the night we again heard
a dog barking at one of the horses, and during the day we saw two
kangaroos. At ten miles we crossed a valley, through which water has been
flowing to the south-south-west. Camped without water. Distance to-day,
fifteen miles.
Sunday, 1st August, Stony Plain Valley. Left at 8.45 on the same bearing,
310 degrees. My reason for keeping this bearing is that there seems to
have been very little rain to the south of us, and I am unwilling to get
too far away from where it has fallen, in case I have to put to my former
line for it. If I should meet with it to-day I shall turn south-west or
west. This country is very dry, and absorbs all that falls. It is of a
bright red soil, mixed with sand and, in some places, lime. At ten miles
I am obliged to stop, in consequence of the grey mare being quite done
up; the stones play the mischief with her. I have great doubts of her
living through the journey. Distance to-day, ten miles.
Monday, 2nd August, Salt Bush--a Stony Plain. We had a little rain during
the night. Started at 9 on a bearing of 315 degrees. At three miles
changed our course to 230 degrees. The last three miles of this day's
journey were through rather a thick scrub, but well grassed, with few
stones. The former part was through a very well-grassed country, with a
little salt bush and low scrub. Saw a number of kangaroos, but they were
too wild to get near them. Distance to-day, twenty miles.
Tuesday, 3rd August, Good Country. It has rained during the whole night,
and is likely to do so to-day. Started at 9, on the same course as
yesterday, 230 degrees. The first portion of our journey was over six
miles of splendid alluvial country, covered with grass--partly spear
grass--with a little salt bush intermixed with it, also a few mulga
bushes at intervals; no other timber. It is a most beautiful open piece
of country, and looks much better than the Adelaide plains did at the
commencement of the colony. Four miles further it was not so good; the
soil became a little lighter, with more salt bush, and a little scrub.
The last eleven miles the soil is good, with grass and salt bush in
abundance, but much thicker with mulga and other low scrubs. It seems to
be a continuation of the same scrub that we passed over on the 19th
ultimo, and I observe that the ants build their habitations in the same
style as they did there. They are about one foot in diameter at the base,
and formed in the shape of a cone, and are supported by the dead root of
a mulga. Others, however, stand from eighteen inches to three feet in
height, built of clay, and on the surface. The kangaroo and emu inhabit
the country. We have also found a number of places where the natives have
been encamped. They seem to be numerous, judging from the number of
places where they have had their fires; but we have not seen any of them.
We have had it raining nearly all day, and it still looks bad. Our black
fellow left us during the night; he seemed to be very much frightened of
the other natives. He knows nothing of the country, and if he follows our
tracks back, I don't envy him his walk. He was of very little use to us,
and I wish I had sent him off before, but I thought he might be useful in
conversing with the other natives when we should meet them. He was of no
other use than for tracking and assisting in getting the horses in the
morning, for I have given them every advantage--they have been seldom
hobbled. There are three small valleys on our line in which water seems
to have run at some former period. We have crossed no course of rocks of
any description since our northern line; from which I am of opinion that
the drainage is underneath, so that there ought to be numerous springs
near the sea-coast. Camped without water. Distance to-day, twenty miles.
Wednesday, 4th August, Scrubby Good Country. Started at 8 on the same
bearing as yesterday, 230 degrees. At thirteen miles ascended a low red
granite range in which there is water. Changed our bearing to 209 degrees
to a hill on the opposite range; when I returned I found the grey mare so
done up that she is unable to proceed. I should not like to leave her,
but I cannot delay longer with her. For about half a mile under the range
where we are now camped is beautiful feed up to the horses' knees. Six
cockatoos passed over to another range. We have also found a small
running stream where I shall leave the mare to-morrow; I will make an
attempt to regain her as I return.
Thursday, 5th August, Granite Range. Started at 8 on the same bearing for
the hill on the opposite range. At six miles another low granite range
with water, where we left the mare. At twelve miles went to the highest
point of the range composed of hard flinty quartz and ironstone. We had a
good view of the surrounding country, which was generally low and
undulating, with salt lakes crossing at about ten miles. This region
appears to be dotted with the lagoons from nearly the foot of the range.
Changed our bearing to 268 degrees for nine miles. Camped under a range
of low hills with good feed for the horses. On our west course we crossed
a plain of red light soil, with abundance of grass and a little salt bush
with a very thick scrub close to the range, but as we advanced it became
more open, and the scrub lower. Shot a wallaby and had him for supper.
Distance to-day, twenty-five miles.
Friday, 6th August, Under the Low Range. Left at 8.30 a.m. on a bearing
of 239 degrees to avoid the stones on the hills. At five miles and a half
got some rain water; at nine miles changed our bearing to 255 degrees; at
fifteen miles camped among the sand hills. Shot another wallaby. The
timber about here is very large, consisting of black oaks, mallee, mulga,
the native peach, the nut, and numerous low scrubs. The grass is good in
some places. The mountain that I am steering for is further off than I
anticipated; we got sight of it a short time before we halted; it seems
to be very high, and I expect something good will be the result of our
visit to it to-morrow. The hills that we were camped under last night are
composed of quartz, and are connected with the range that we were on
running to the south-west. Distance to-day, twenty six miles.
Saturday, 7th August, Sand Hills going to the High Mount. Left at 8.30
a.m. on the same bearing, 255 degrees, for eighteen miles to the foot of
the mountain. At fifteen miles camped under the highest point, which is
composed of quartz rock. The journey to-day has been through horrid dense
scrub and heavy sand hills, to the foot of the hill, which I have named
Mount Finke. It is as high as Mount Arden; I have not light to get on the
top of it to-night. Very little rain has fallen here, and we have been
without water for the last two nights: the country is of such a light
sandy soil that it will not retain it. I almost give up hopes of a good
country; this is very disheartening after all that I have done to find
it. If I see nothing from the top of the mount to-morrow, I must turn
down to Fowler's Bay for water for the horses. As I could not remain
quiet, I got on one of the lower spurs of Mount Finke to see what was
before me. The prospect is gloomy in the extreme! I could see a long
distance, but nothing met the eye save A DENSE SCRUB AS BLACK AND DISMAL
AS MIDNIGHT. On my return I found that Forster had succeeded in finding
water by digging in the creek. Distance to-day, twenty miles.
Sunday, 8th August, Mount Finke. At dawn of day I ascended the mountain,
but was unable to see much more than I did last night, in consequence of
there being a mist all round. No high rising ground is to be seen in any
direction. A FEARFUL COUNTRY. Left the mount at 9.30 a.m. on a bearing of
270 degrees. At eighteen miles halted to give the horses some food, as
they were obliged to be tied up all last night, there not being any feed
for them, and the scrub very dense. The horse Blower seems to be very
unwell; he has lain down twice this morning, and an hour's rest will do
him good. After leaving the mount we have a thick mallee and mulga scrub
to go through with spinifex. At ten miles changed our bearing to 190
degrees; at eight miles camped. The whole of our journey to day has been
through a dreadful desert of sand hills and spinifex. In the last eight
miles we have not seen a mouthful for the horses to eat and not a drop of
water; it is even WORSE than Captain Sturt's desert, where there was a
little salt bush; but here there is not a vestige. Distance to-day,
twenty-five miles.
Monday, 9th August, Desert. Started at 8.30 on the same bearing, 190
degrees. At five miles there is a change in the country; the spinifex has
suddenly ceased and low scrub taken its place; the sand ridges are spread
and the valley wider. At seven miles discovered some rock water in the
middle of a valley with plenty of salt bush and green grass, first rate
for the horses, which have had nothing to eat for two nights. I shall
give them the rest of the day to recover. They were beginning to be very
much done up, and it was with difficulty we could get them to face the
spinifex. Shot a pigeon and had him for supper. We have seen where a
horse has been a long time ago. Distance to-day, seven miles.
Tuesday, 10th August, Rock Water. Started at 8.30 on a bearing of 180
degrees. Camped at eighteen miles without water, and a very little food
for the horses, only a little salt bush. The appearance of a change from
the dreary desert lasted only for about one mile from where we camped
last night; it then became even worse than before--the sand hills higher,
steeper and closer together, the spinifex thicker and higher; we got the
horses through it with difficulty. It rained all last night and all day.
There is some rising ground to the west. Distance to-day, eighteen miles.
Wednesday, 11th August, Dense Scrub. Left our camp at 8 on the same
bearing, 180 degrees. At 9 obliged to halt for the remainder of the day,
the horses being too tired to proceed further; the fearful sand hills are
very trying for them. To-day's few miles have been through the same
DREARY, DREADFUL, DISMAL DESERT of heavy sand hills and spinifex with
mallee very dense, scarcely a mouthful for the horses to eat. When will
it have an end? We again saw the rising ground a little to the north of
west of us; I should have gone and examined it, but our small remaining
quantity of provisions being nearly exhausted, I could not venture; my
object now being to make Fowler's Bay for water for our horses, and
thence to Streaky Bay, to endeavour to get some provisions there to carry
us home. We have now travelled considerably upwards of a thousand miles,
and in that journey my horses have had only four clear days to
themselves; they have done most excellently well. No water.
Thursday, 12th August. Dense Scrub. Left at 8.25 on a bearing of 165
degrees. Camped at ten miles; the horses done up. The same dreary desert.
No water.
Friday, 13th August. Dense Scrub. The horses look very bad this morning.
I hope we shall be able to make the sea-coast to-day. Started at 8.30 on
the same bearing, 165 degrees, but was unable to get more than ten miles
out of the horses; Bonney is nearly done up, and there is no water for
the poor animals. I hope I shall not be obliged to leave the poor old
horse behind, but I very much fear that I shall have to do so if nothing
turns up to-morrow. The country is still the same. This is dreadful work!
Saturday, 14th August, Dense Scrub. Started at 8.15 on the same bearing,
165 degrees. At ten miles came upon some green feed for the horses, and
gave them the benefit of it for the rest of the day. Bonney still very
bad. For the last two miles we have had no sand hills, but very dense
mallee and tea-tree, with a light sandy soil with a little limestone,
also salt bush and pig-face in abundance. No water.
Sunday, 15th August, Dense Mallee Scrub. Started at 8.45 on same bearing,
165 degrees. At two miles and a half changed our course to 225 degrees,
having found some fresh horse-tracks; at seven miles camped for the
remainder of the day to recruit the horses, having come upon some new
green grass. Distance actually travelled, fifteen miles.
Monday, 16th August, Dense Mallee Scrub. Started at 9 on a course of 205
degrees. Twelve miles to Miller's Water. I intended to have given the
horses two days' rest here, but there is not sufficient water; there are
only three holes in the limestone rock, and the thirsty animals have
nearly drunk it all: there will not be enough for them in the morning.
The country that we have come through yesterday and to-day resembles the
scrub between Franklin Harbour and Port Lincoln--mallee with grassy
plains occasionally--only the mallee is larger, and the plains are met
with at shorter intervals, more numerous and of larger extent. The soil
is good but light, being produced by decomposed limestone, of which the
low range to the north-west is composed. I am unable to go to Fowler's
Bay as I intended; our provisions are exhausted, and the horses unable to
do the journey. I must now shape my course for Streaky Bay to get
something to eat.
Tuesday, 17th August, Miller's Water. Watered our horses from a
waterproof with a quart pot. Started at 9.15, our course 160 degrees, six
miles to Bectimah Gaip. For the first three miles the grassy plains are
very good, and seem to run a considerable distance between belts of large
mallee, in some places wider than in others, and seem to be connected by
small gaips; I think water could be easily obtained by digging. The last
three miles to the coast is very dense small mallee. Actual distance,
twelve miles. I intend to give the horses a rest to-morrow. I regret
exceedingly that I was unable to make Fowler's Bay. It is with difficulty
that I have been able to save Bonney; he is still very weak and unable to
do a day's journey; we can scarcely get him to do the short journeys we
have been doing lately. For upwards of a month we have been existing upon
two pounds and a half of flour cake daily, without animal food. Since we
commenced the journey, all the animal food we have been able to obtain
has been four wallabies, one opossum, one small duck, one pigeon, and
latterly a few kangaroo mice, which were very welcome; we were anxious to
find more, but we soon got out of their country.
These kangaroo mice are elegant little animals, about four inches in
length, and resemble the kangaroo in shape, with a long tail terminating
with a sort of brush. Their habitations are of a conical form, built with
twigs and rotten wood, about six feet in diameter at the base, and rising
to a height of three or four feet. When the natives discover one of these
nests they surround it, treading firmly round the base in order to secure
any outlet; they then remove the top of the cone, and, as the mice
endeavour to escape, they kill them with the waddies which they use with
such unfailing skill. When the nest is found by only a few natives, they
set fire to the top of the cone, and thus secure the little animals with
ease. For the last month we have been reduced to one meal a-day, and that
a very small one, which has exhausted us both very much and made us
almost incapable of exertion. We have now only TWO meals left to take us
to Streaky Bay, which is distant from this place ONE HUNDRED MILES. We
have been forced to boil the tops of the pigface, to satisfy the wants of
nature. Being short of water, we boiled them in their own juice. To a
hungry man they were very palatable, and, had they been boiled in fresh
water, would have made a good vegetable. Yesterday we obtained a few
sow-thistles, which we boiled, and found to be very good.
Wednesday, 18th August, Bectimah Gaip. Rested the horses and obtained a
few shell-fish from the beach: there are very few, which was a
disappointment to us.
Thursday, 19th August, Bectimah Gaip. Started at 8 a.m. for Streaky Bay.
I managed to get thirty miles to-day, which is a great help. I only hope
that Mr. Gibson is at Streaky Bay, so that we may be able to get
something to eat; we must endure three days' more starving before we
shall be able to reach there.
Friday, 20th August, Smoky Bay. Started at 7.15. Mallee scrub in some
places very dense, in others open, with good grassy plains at intervals,
in which I think water could be had by digging; very few birds about, and
those small. At twenty-five miles we got some rock water. Distance
to-day, thirty-five miles.
Saturday, 21st August, Small Grassy Plains. Started at 7.30 on a
south-easterly course. Got a little water in the limestone rock for our
horses. Camped on the shore at Streaky Bay at sundown. The last sixteen
miles were through very dense scrub; the former part through scrub with
good grassy plains at intervals. Distance, thirty-eight miles.
Sunday, 22nd August, On the Shore at Streaky Bay. Started at 11 a.m. to
make Mr. Gibson's station. The horses did not arrive until 10.30, as they
had gone back on their tracks of yesterday. During the time Forster was
after them, I managed to shoot a crow, and cooked him in the ashes. We
had him for breakfast--the first food we have had for the last three
days; it was very agreeable to taste and stomach, for we were beginning
to feel the cravings of nature rather severely. I hope Mr. Gibson will be
at the Depot; it will be a fine trouble if he is not, and we have to
travel two hundred and forty miles on the chance of shooting something.
Twenty-four miles to Mr. Gibson's station, where we were received and
treated with great kindness, for which we were very thankful. We enjoyed
a good supper, which, after three days' fasting, as may readily be
imagined, was quite a treat.
Monday, 23rd August, Mr. Gibson's Station. Both Forster and myself felt
very unwell, especially Forster, who is very bad; the sudden change from
a state of starvation to plenty of good and wholesome food has been the
cause. I am suffering chiefly from weakness and a very severe pain
between the shoulder-blades, which I have felt for some weeks back. It is
a dreadful pain, and nearly incapacitated me from sitting in the saddle
all day yesterday; I thought I should not have been able to reach here, I
was so very bad with it. I have been obliged to send down to the next
station, about thirty miles distant, to try and get some horseshoes. I
must rest here a few days to recover.
Tuesday, 24th August, Mr. Gibson's Station. Forster appears to be a
little better this morning, but very weak; I also feel a little better
this morning from yesterday's rest.
Wednesday, 25th August, Mr. Gibson's Station. I have succeeded in getting
some shoes for the horses from Mr. Miller, to whom I am deeply indebted
for his kindness in allowing me to have them.
Thursday, 26th August, Mr. Gibson's Station. Shoeing the horses and
preparing for a start at the beginning of next week.
Friday, 27th August, Mr. Gibson's Station. At the same thing. Improving
in health and strength.
Saturday, 28th August, Mr. Gibson's Station. I have been very unwell all
night.
Sunday, 29th August, Mr. Gibson's Station. Still very ill; unable to do
anything.
Monday, 30th August, Mr. Gibson's Station. The same.
Tuesday, 31st August, Mr. Gibson's Station. I had a dreadful night of it;
seized with cramp in the stomach, and thought I should never see morning;
no medicine to relieve me. I intended to have started to-day, but am
quite unable to do so.
Wednesday, 1st September, Mr. Gibson's Station. Can stay no longer; made
a start to-day, and got as far as one of Mr. Gibson's out-stations,
twenty-five miles. Quite done up.
Thursday, 2nd September, One of Mr. Gibson's Out-Stations. Raining this
morning; unable to proceed. Very unwell.
Friday, 3rd September, Same Place. Feel better this morning. Started at
8.30 for Parla. I am unable to make any attempt to recover the grey mare.
Made Parla at 1 p.m.; camped at ten miles beyond. Distance to-day,
twenty-five miles.
Saturday, 4th September, Ten Miles beyond Parla. Started at 8.15 on an
east bearing twenty-three miles to Rock Water. Camped. Very poor country.
The granite range that Mr. Hack has laid down on his chart, I cannot
find. I have come east from Parla, and ought to have crossed about the
middle of it.