314 degrees 30 minutes, over an undulating plain, with low sand hills and
wide valleys, with plenty of grass and salt bush. After ten miles the
sand hills ceased, and at thirteen miles we reached the point of the
stony table land. Here we saw, to the north-north-west, what was
apparently a large gum creek, running north-east and south-west. Changing
our bearing to 285 degrees, after seven miles of very bad stony plain,
thinly covered with salt bush and grass, we came upon the creek, and
found long reaches of permanent water, divided here and there by only a
few yards of rocks, and bordered by reeds and rushes. The water hole, by
which we camped, is from forty to fifty feet wide, and half a mile in
length; the water is excellent, and I could see small fish in it about
two inches long. About ten miles down the creek the country seems to be
more open, and the gum-trees much larger, and in a distant bend of the
creek I can perceive a large body of water. The first of the seven or
eight tent-like hills that were to the east of our route to-day presents
a somewhat remarkable appearance. Of a conical form, it comes to a point
like a Chinaman's hat, and is encircled near the top by a black ring,
while some rocks resembling a white tower crown the summit. Distance
to-day, twenty miles.
Sunday, 27th June, Large Water Creek. Cloudy morning, with prospect of
rain. A swan visited the water hole last night, and to-day we have seen
both the mountain duck and the large black duck. Having a shoe to fix
upon Jersey, and my courses to map down, we did not get a start until 10
o'clock, and we were obliged to stop early in consequence of the grey
mare getting so lame that we were unable to proceed. We had an old shoe
or two, and Mr. Forster managed to get one on the mare. We started to-day
on a bearing of 270 degrees for eight miles to a low flat-topped hill,
when we changed to 220 degrees for five miles to a gum creek with rain
water. About five miles to the north of our line there are flat-topped
ranges, running north-east. The main creek runs on the south side of this
course, and nearly parallel to it. Further to the south, at a distance of
about ten miles, is still the stony table land with the sand hills. The
country is fearfully stony, but improves a little in grass as we get
west. It seems to be well watered. Distance to-day, about twelve miles.
Monday, 28th June, Gum Creek. There has been a little rain during the
night, and it is still coming down. As I am so far north, I regret that I
am unable to go a little further, fearing the lameness of the horses from
the stony nature of the country. I intend to follow the creek up, if it
comes from the west, or a little to the north of west, to see if I cannot
make the fall of the country to the south-west, and get on a better road
for the horses. We started on a bearing of 305 degrees, but after a mile
and a half, finding the creek wind too much to the north, we changed our
course to 287 degrees for five miles to a small flat-topped hill. Changed
our bearing again to 281 degrees for twenty-two miles to a tent hill, on
the south side of which we camped. This part of the country is very stony
and bad, with salt bush and very little grass. It has evidently been the
course of a large water at some time, and reminded me of the stony desert
of Captain Sturt. Bleak, barren, and desolate, it grows no timber, so
that we scarcely can find sufficient wood to boil our quart pot. The
rain, which poured down upon us all day, so softened the ground that the
horses could tread the stones into it, and we got along much better than
we expected. Distance to-day, twenty-eight miles and a half.
Tuesday, 29th June, South Side of Tent Hill. Started at 8.30 a.m. on a
bearing of 305 degrees. At eight miles crossed a gum creek, with
polyganum, running to the north. At twelve miles crossed another,
trending in the same direction. These creeks are wide and formed into
numerous channels. I expected to have done thirty miles to-day, but am
disappointed, for we were obliged to halt early, after having gone only
eighteen miles, as my horse was quite lame. How much do we feel the want
of another set of horse-shoes! We have, however, still got an old shoe
left, which is put on this afternoon. It had continued raining all last
night, but not heavily, and cleared off in the morning shortly after we
started. Our travelling to-day has been still very stony, over stony
rises; the stony table land that has been all along on our left is now
trending more to the south-west. The country is more open: in looking at
it from one of the rises it has the appearance of an immense plain,
studded with isolated flat-topped hills. The last eight miles is better
grassed and has more salt bush. Camped on a small creek in the stony
rises. Distance to-day, eighteen miles.
Wednesday, 30th June, Stony Rises. We had a little rain in the former
part of the night, and a very heavy dew in the morning. Started at 9.30
a.m., bearing 305 degrees; at five miles crossed the upper part of a gum
creek, and at twelve miles ascended a high flat-topped hill, commanding a
view of an immense stony plain, but it is so hazy that we can see nothing
beyond ten miles. From this hill we changed our course to 309 degrees to
a saddle in the next range. At four miles halted at a gum creek, with
plenty of green feed. Made a very short journey to-day in consequence of
the horses being quite lame. In addition to their want of shoes, a stiff,
tenacious brown clay adhered to the hoof, and picked up the small round
stones, which pressed on the frog of the foot. These pebbles were as
firmly packed as if they had been put in with cement, so that we had hard
work to keep the hoofs clear. Distance travelled, sixteen miles. Weather
showery.
Thursday, 1st July, Gum Greek. The horses have had such poor food for the
last week that I shall rest them to-day. About half a mile below us there
is a large water hole a quarter of a mile long, with a number of black
ducks upon it, but they are very shy. It rained very heavily and without
intermission all last night and to-day. This creek is visited by a great
many natives. We saw them making away as we approached.
Friday, 2nd July, Same Place. The creek came down last night: it is now a
sheet of water two hundred yards broad. Started at 8.45 a.m. over a stony
plain on a bearing of 309 degrees, to the saddle in the range. I ascended
one of the highest hills in this range, but the day was too dull to see
far. I could, however, distinguish what appeared to be a wooded country*
in the distance, from south-west to north-east. (* This "wooded country"
afterwards turned out to be sand hills, with scrub.) Observing that the
country a little more to the north was less stony, I changed our course
to a bearing of 344 degrees, over a plain thinly covered with gravelly
stones, consisting of quartz, ironstone, and a dark reddish-brown stone,
with a good deal of gypsum cropping out. The soil is of a light-brown
colour, with plenty of dry grass upon it, and very little salt bush. In
the spring time it must look beautiful. The country was so boggy from the
heavy rains, that for the sake of my horse I was obliged to stop early.
Camped at a gum creek coming from the south-west, and running a little to
the east of north. Distance to-day, eighteen miles.
Sunday, 4th July, Same Place. Not the slightest appearance of a change.
It rained in torrents all night and all day, though at sundown it seemed
to be breaking a little. The creek came down in the forenoon, overflowed
its banks, and left us on an island before we knew what we were about. We
were obliged to seek a higher place. Not content with depriving us of our
first worley, it has now forced us to retreat to a bare hill, without any
protection from the weather. The rain has come from the north-east.
Monday, 5th July, Same Place. The rain lasted the greater part of the
night, but became light before morning. Started at 12.30 on a bearing of
312 degrees for eleven miles to some sand hills. A fearfully hard day's
work for the poor horses over a stony plain, sinking up to their knees in
mud, until at eight miles we crossed a reedy swamp two miles in breadth,
and how many in length I know not, for it seemed all one sheet of water:
it took our horses up to their bellies.
Tuesday, 6th July, Sand Hills. All our rations and everything we have got
being perfectly saturated with wet, I have made up my mind to stop and
put them to rights; if we neglect them it will soon be all over with us.
This was a beautiful day, not a cloud to be seen. There are a great many
natives' tracks in these sand hills, and plenty of grass.
Wednesday, 7th July, Sand Hills. Heavy dew last night. Started on a
bearing of 312 degrees at 9 a.m. At eleven miles the sand hills cease,
and stony plain commences. The sand hills were well grassed: also the
stony plain. Dip of the country still north-east. We crossed two
watercourses--one at this side of the plain, and the other two miles
back, broad and shallow. I could see gum-trees on the latter about two
miles to the north-east as if it formed itself into a deeper channel.
Travelling very heavy. Distance to-day, twenty-five miles.
Thursday, 8th July, Sand Hills. A very heavy dew again last night.
Started at 9 a.m. At one mile we came on yesterday's course; could see
nothing; changed the bearing to 272 degrees. At seven miles crossed a
creek running north and a little west, the water being up to our
saddle-flaps. At twelve miles the sand hills ceased, and we came upon an
elevated plain, of a light-brown soil, with fragments of stone on the
surface. At twenty-five miles, in the middle of this plain, we camped,
without wood, and in sight of a large range in the far distance to the
west. Distance to-day, twenty-five miles.
Friday, 9th July, Large Plain. Left our camp at 8.50 a.m. on the same
bearing as yesterday, 272 degrees. At one mile and half came upon a creek
of water, seemingly permanent. Judging from the immense quantity of dry
grass that is strewn over the plain, this must be a beautiful country in
spring. The dip of the country is to the north and west. Our horses are
all very lame for want of shoes, and the boggy state of the soil to-day
has tried them severely. If the country does not become less stony, I
shall be compelled to leave some of them behind. We camped on a gum creek
about three miles to the west of the range. My only hope now of cutting
Cooper's Creek is on the other side of the range. The plain we crossed
to-day resembles those of the Cooper, also the grasses; if it is not
there, it must run to the north-west, and form the Glenelg of Captain
Grey. Distance to-day, twenty-one miles.
Saturday, 10th July, Gum Creek, West End of Large Stony Plain. Rested the
horses to-day. This evening we were surprised to hear a dog barking* at
the grey mare; its colour was black and tan. (* It is commonly supposed
that the native dingo or wild dog does not bark. This is an error. The
dog in this instance being black and tan, was probably a hybrid. (See
below.))
Sunday, 11th July, Same Place. This morning the sun rose at 62 degrees.
Bearing to-day, 272 degrees, so as to round the point of range, which
seems to have a little mallee in the gullies on this side, and some trees
on the west side. Started at 8.30 a.m., and at four miles ascended the
highest point of the range. The view to the north-east is over an immense
stony plain with broken hills in the distance. To the north is also the
plain, with table-hills in the far distance. To the north-west is the
termination of the range running north-east and south-west, distant about
ten miles; about half-way between is a gum creek running to north-east.
To the west is the same range, and a number of conical hills between.
Changed our bearing to 220 degrees in order to break through the range.
This range is very stony, composed of a hard milky-white flint stone, and
white and yellow chalky substance, with a gradual descent on the other
side to the south, which is the finest salt-bush country that I have
seen, with a great quantity of grass upon it. The grey mare has been very
bad; her belly was very much swollen, but this morning she seemed better.
Towards afternoon, however, she fagged very much, which caused me to stop
so soon. I am almost afraid that I shall lose her. I shall see how she is
in the morning, and, if she is no better, I will endeavour to get her on
to some permanent water or creek running to the south. I think we have
now made the dip of the country to the south, but the mirage is so
powerful that little bushes appear like great gum-trees, which makes it
very difficult to judge what is before us; it is almost as bad as
travelling in the dark. I never saw it so bright nor so continuous as it
is now; one would think that the whole country was under water. Camped
without water. No timber as yet on this side of the range, except a few
bushes in the creek. A good deal of rain has fallen here lately, and the
vegetation is looking fresh.
Monday, 12th July, Large Salt-Bush and Grass Plain. The mare seems a
little better this morning, and I shall be able to make a short journey.
There was a very heavy white frost during the night, and it was bitterly
cold. Not a hill to be seen either to the south-west or west--nothing but
plain. Left our camp at 8.30 a.m. on a bearing of 220 degrees; at two
miles and a half changed to 112 degrees for three miles to a small creek
running south with plenty of feed and water. We found our horses very
much done up this morning; they could scarcely travel over the stones,
which caused me to alter my course to the eastward, where I found the
travelling generally better. All the horses are now so lame that I shall
require to rest them before I can proceed. They will not walk above two
miles an hour among the stones. The stony plain seems to continue a long
way to the south-west, but the country being undulating and the mirage so
strong, I cannot say precisely. I intend to see where this creek will
lead me to, for I cannot face the stones again. Our distance to-day, five
miles and a half.
Tuesday, 13th July, Mulga Creek. Went to the highest point on the stony
range east of us, but could only see a very short distance. There are a
number of creeks on the eastern side running into this one. The range is
low and very stony, composed of flints and pebbles of all colours. No
timber.
Wednesday, 14th July, Same Place. During the night it became very cloudy,
and I was afraid we were going to have more rain, but it has ended in a
light shower, and cleared off this morning. I shall follow down the creek
and see what it leads to. The grey mare still seems very bad, and I must
make short journeys until she gets a little better. Started at 8.30 a.m.,
bearing 180 degrees for eight miles to Large Mulga Creek, thence 192
degrees for four miles. The country to-day is good on both sides of the
creek, a good salt-bush country with plenty of grass, but rather stony.
The gum trees are becoming a little larger on the creek, which at present
is formed into a great many channels. The timber consists of mulga and
dwarf gum, with saplings. There is plenty of water in the creek at
present, from the late rain, but I see nothing to indicate its becoming
permanent. Distance to-day, twelve miles.
Thursday, 15th July, Mulga and Gum Creek. Left the camp at 9 a.m. on a
bearing of 190 degrees for two miles, thence 230 degrees for one mile and
a half, thence 250 degrees for four miles and a half, thence 286 degrees
for two miles, thence 290 degrees for one mile, thence 270 degrees for
five miles, thence 320 degrees for one mile, to camp at some mallee. The
country on both sides of the creek is good, but subject to be flooded;
the width of the plain is about fifteen miles, bounded on the south side
by bare stony rises, and on the north by scrubby rises. The creek spreads
itself all over the plain, which seems to be very extensive. It has been
excessively cold to-day: wind from the west. Distance to-day, seventeen
miles.
Friday, 16th July, Large Plain, Mulga and Gum Creek. Left the camp at 9
a.m., on a bearing of 270 degrees for nine miles. The first six miles was
a continuation of the creek and plain; it then turned to the north-west
and the sand hills commenced. At nine miles we had a good view of the
surrounding country, from the east to the north-west. To the west we
could see the range that we crossed on the 11th instant trending away to
the north-west as far as the eye could reach, apparently a sandy and
scrubby country with small patches of open ground intervening. There also
appeared to be a gum creek, about five miles west of this point. Seeing
there was no hope for anything to the west for a long distance, I changed
my course to the south on a bearing of 190 degrees to cross the stony
rise, keeping on the sand hills for the benefit of the horses' feet. At
five miles found that the sandy country swept round the stony rise, the
country still having the appearance of scrub and sand hills all round. I
altered my course to south-east to 132 degrees for fourteen miles; on
this course we have ridden over a scrubby plain of a light sandy soil,
most beautifully grassed but dry, the young feed not having sprung. We
have not seen a drop of water on the surface; the ground evidently
absorbs all that falls; the scrub is principally the mulga and hakea
bushes and acacia, with a few other small bushes, but very little salt
bush. Camped to-night without water. The grey mare appears to be getting
round again; it seems to have been an affection of the chest, and has now
fallen down into the left knee, which has become very much swollen, but
it seems to have relieved her chest; she now feeds as well as ever.
Distance to-day, twenty-eight miles.
Saturday, 17th July, Scrub and Sandy Plain without Water. Started at 8.10
a.m. on the same course, 132 degrees. At two miles and a half, rain
water; at seven miles crossed a stunted gum creek running towards the
south-west; at twenty-five miles came upon a little rain water. Camped.
The plain still continues with very low rises at intervals; the scrub is
much thicker and the greater part of it dead, which makes it very
difficult to travel through. The grass is not so plentiful, and it is
more sandy. The creek that we crossed at seven miles was running; it had
salt tea-tree on its banks, and seems likely to have some permanent water
either above or below. I did not examine it, because, the surrounding
country being so sandy and scrubby, it will be of little use. Distance
to-day, twenty-five miles.
Sunday, 18th July, Dense Scrubby Plain. Rain Water. Left at 9.15 a.m. on
the same bearing, 132 degrees. We saw some native worleys, and the tracks
of a number of natives having passed this place a day or two ago, going
to the south-west. Distance to-day, twenty miles. Had to halt early in
consequence of grey mare being done up and unable to proceed. The first
part of the day's journey the scrub became more open and splendidly
grassed, the latter part was fearfully thick, it is composed of mulga,
dead and alive, and a few hakea and other bushes, with salt bush and
plenty of grass of two or three different sorts. We have a view of rising
ground a little to the north of our line, about from fifteen to twenty
miles distant. To-morrow I shall alter my course to strike the highest
point; it is a range, and seems to be wooded. I suppose it is the same
range that we crossed on the 11th instant. It is very cloudy, and seems
as if it will rain. Distance to-day, twenty miles.
Monday, 19th July, Dense Scrubby Plain. Started at 9.15 a.m. on a bearing
of 120 degrees to the highest point of the range. A slight shower fell
early this morning; it still looks very cloudy. We could only accomplish
ten miles to-day in consequence of the grey mare being unable to proceed
farther; if I can get her on to permanent water I shall leave her; she
only keeps me back, and endangers the other horses. I shall be very sorry
to do so, for she is a great favourite. We are now camped at a place
where there are five or six small watercourses; if we can find water I
shall give her until to-morrow to rest. The country that we have come
over to-day is most splendidly grassed, of a red light sandy soil, but
good; the mulga bushes in some places grow thick, and a great many are
very tall. Forster caught an opossum--the first that we have seen; we
intend making a dinner from him to-day. This is the first game we have
been able to secure, except two small ducks we had at the beginning of
our journey. We have found water a little way down the valley, which I
think will become a large creek further to the south-west. We are again
in the country of the kangaroos. Distance to-day, ten miles.
Tuesday, 20th July, Grassy Valley. We had another shower this morning. I
must try and make the hills to-day if I can. Started at 10.10 a.m. on the
same bearing as yesterday, 120 degrees, and at four miles ascended the
peak on the range. I see around me a scrubby country, with open patches,
and here and there in the far distance what appear to be belts of mulga.
Four miles beyond this hill we halted at some rain water. We have seen
three or four kangaroos to-day; they were the red sort with white
breasts. Distance travelled, eight miles.
Wednesday 21st July, Grass and Salt-Bush Plains. Left the camp at 9 a.m.
on a bearing of 97 degrees. Camped at some rain water in a clay-pan. At
twelve miles there is low rising ground running north-west and
south-east, which divides the two plains; there are no creeks, but the
dip of the country is to the south-west. This is as fine a salt-bush and
grass country as I have seen. It is a pity there is no permanent water.
Distance to-day, twenty miles.
Thursday, 22nd July, Open, Good Country. Started at 9 a.m. on the same
course as yesterday, 97 degrees. At ten miles crossed a small watercourse
running to the south-south-west; at sixteen miles came through the saddle
of a low range running north-west and south-east composed of limestone;
it forms one of the boundaries of a large plain, which seems well adapted
for pastoral purposes; it is well grassed, with salt bush, although we
could find no permanent water. I think I can see a gum creek to the east
of us, but the mirage is so powerful that I am not quite certain.
Distance to-day, twenty miles.
Friday, 23rd July, Large East Plain. Started at 9.10 a.m. on a bearing of
82 degrees, and at four miles ascended an isolated hill, but can see
nothing of the gum creek. Changed our course to 122 degrees, and at four
miles crossed a mulga creek running to the east. Camped on the south-east
side of a flat-topped hill, which, although the highest I have yet seen,
enabled me to see nothing but the range to the north-east, and a high
conical hill about ten miles south-west, connected with the ranges. The
country is without timber except a few mulga bushes at intervals.
Distance to-day, twenty-one miles.
Saturday, 24th July, South-east Side of Flat-topped Hill. Left at 8.10
a.m. on the same course, 122 degrees, over an undulating stony plain,
with narrow sand hills at intervals, and a number of lagoons containing
rain water, where we camped. I intend to move to-morrow to another large
lagoon that we have seen from a small rise, and rest the horses there;
they have had a very severe day of it, and feel the want of shoes very
much. The stones are mostly white quartz and ironstone, small and
water-washed. I conclude they have come from the hills that are to the
south-west. Distance to-day, twenty-four miles.