Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat
EXPLORATIONS IN AUSTRALIA.
THE JOURNALS
OF
JOHN McDOUALL STUART
DURING THE YEARS
1858, 1859, 1860, 1861, & 1862,
WHEN HE FIXED THE CENTRE OF THE CONTINENT AND
SUCCESSFULLY CROSSED IT FROM SEA TO SEA.
EDITED FROM MR. STUART'S MANUSCRIPT
BY WILLIAM HARDMAN, M.A., F.R.G.S., &c.
With Maps, a Photographic Portrait of Mr. Stuart, and twelve Engravings
drawn on wood by George French Angas, from Sketches taken during
the different expeditions.
(SANS CHANGER.
S.O. AND CO.)
SECOND EDITION.
1865.
ADVERTISEMENT
TO THE
SECOND EDITION.
Since the first edition of this work was published Mr. Stuart has arrived
in England, and at a recent meeting of the Geographical Society he
announced that, taking advantage of his privilege as a discoverer, he had
christened the rich tract of country which he has opened up to the South
Australians Alexandra Land.
December 1st, 1864.
PREFACE BY THE EDITOR.
The explorations of Mr. John McDouall Stuart may truly be said, without
disparaging his brother explorers, to be amongst the most important in
the history of Australian discovery. In 1844 he gained his first
experiences under the guidance of that distinguished explorer, Captain
Sturt, whose expedition he accompanied in the capacity of draughtsman.
Leaving Lake Torrens on the left, Captain Sturt and his party passed up
the Murray and the Darling, until finding that the latter would carry him
too far from the northern course, which was the one he had marked out for
himself, he turned up a small tributary known to the natives as the
Williorara. The water of this stream failing him, he pushed on over a
barren tract, until he suddenly came upon a fruitful and well-watered
spot, which he named the Rocky Glen. In this picturesque glen they were
detained for six months, during which time no rain fell. The heat of the
sun was so intense that every screw in their boxes was drawn, and all
horn handles and combs split into fine laminae. The lead dropped from
their pencils, their finger-nails became as brittle as glass, and their
hair, and the wool on their sheep, ceased to grow. Scurvy attacked them
all, and Mr. Poole, the second in command, died. In order to avoid the
scorching rays of the sun, they had excavated an underground chamber, to
which they retired during the heat of the day.
When the long-expected rain fell, they pushed on for fifty miles to
another suitable halting-place, which was called Park Depot. From this
depot Captain Sturt made two attempts to reach the Centre of the
continent. He started, accompanied by four of his party, advancing over a
country which resembled an ocean whose mighty billows, fifty or sixty
feet high, had become suddenly hardened into long parallel ridges of
solid sand. The abrupt termination of this was succeeded at two hundred
miles by what is now so well known as Sturt's Stony Desert, to which
frequent allusion is made by Mr. Stuart in his journals. After thirty
miles more, this stony desert ceased with equal abruptness, and was
followed by a vast plain of dried mud, which Captain Sturt describes as
"a boundless ploughed field, on which floods had settled and subsided."
After advancing two hundred miles beyond the Stony Desert, and to within
one hundred and fifty miles of the Centre of the continent, they were
compelled to return to Park Depot, where they arrived in a most exhausted
condition.
A short rest at the Depot was followed by another expedition, Captain
Sturt being on this occasion accompanied by Mr. Stuart and two men. The
seventh day of their journey brought them to the banks of a fine creek,
now so well known as Cooper Creek in connection with the fate of those
unfortunate explorers, Burke and Wills. At two hundred miles from Cooper
Creek Captain Sturt and his party were again met by the Stony Desert, but
slightly varied in its aspect. Before abandoning his attempt to proceed,
the leader of the expedition laid the matter before his companions, and
he writes as follows: "I should be doing an injustice to Mr. Stuart and
my men, if I did not here mention that I told them the position we were
placed in, and the chance on which our safety would depend if we went on.
They might well have been excused if they expressed an opinion contrary
to such a course; but the only reply they made me was to assure me that
they were ready and willing to follow me to the last."
With much reluctance, however, Captain Sturt determined to return to
Cooper Creek without delay. They travelled night and day without
interruption, and on the morning of their arrival at the creek, one of
those terrible hot north winds, so much dreaded by the colonists, began
to blow with unusual violence. Lucky was it for them that it had not
overtaken them in the Desert, for they could scarcely have survived it.
The heat was awful; a thermometer, graduated to 127 degrees, burst,
though sheltered in the fork of a large tree, and their skin was
blistered by a torrent of fine sand, which was driven along by the fury
of the hurricane. They still had fearful difficulties to encounter, but
after an absence of nineteen months they returned safely to Adelaide.
The discouraging account of the interior which was brought by Captain
Sturt did not prevent other explorers from making further attempts; but
the terrible fate of Kennedy and his party on York Peninsula, and the
utter disappearance of Leichardt's expedition, both in the same year
(1848), had a very decided influence in checking the progress of
Australian exploration. Seven years later, in 1855, Mr. Gregory landed on
the north-west coast for the purpose of exploring the Victoria River, and
after penetrating as far south as latitude 20 degrees 16 minutes,
longitude 131 degrees 44 minutes, he was compelled to proceed to the head
of the Gulf of Carpentaria, and thence to Sydney along the route taken by
Dr. Leichardt in 1844. Shortly after his return Mr. Gregory was
despatched by the Government of New South Wales in 1857, to find, if
possible, some trace of the lost expedition of the lamented Leichardt;
his efforts, however, did nothing to clear up the mystery that enshrouds
the fate of that celebrated explorer.* (* It is possible that Mr.
McKinlay has been hasty in the opinion he formed from the graves and
remains of white men shown to him by Keri Keri, and the story related of
their massacre. May they not belong to Leichardt's party?)
The colonists of South Australia have always been distinguished for
promoting by private aid and public grant the cause of exploration. They
usually kept somebody in the field, whose discoveries were intended to
throw light on the caprices of Lake Torrens, at one time a vast inland
sea, at another a dry desert of stones and baked mud. Hack, Warburton,
Freeling, Babbage, and other well-known names, are associated with this
particular district, and, in 1858, Stuart started to the north-west of
the same country, accompanied by one white man (Forster) and a native. In
this, the first expedition which he had the honour to command, he was
aided solely by his friend Mr. William Finke, but in his later journeys
Mr. James Chambers also bore a share of the expense.* (* It is greatly to
be regretted that both these gentlemen are since dead. Mr. Chambers did
not survive to witness the success of his friend's later expeditions, and
the news of Mr. Finke's death reached us while these sheets were going
through the press.) This journey was commenced in May, 1858, from Mount
Eyre in the north to Denial and Streaky Bays on the west coast of the
Port Lincoln country. On this journey Mr. Stuart accomplished one of the
most arduous feats in all his travels, having, with one man only (the
black having basely deserted them), pushed through a long tract of dense
scrub and sand with unusual rapidity, thus saving his own life and that
of his companion. During this part of the journey they were without food
or water, and his companion was thoroughly dispirited and despairing of
success. This expedition occupied him till September, 1858, and was
undertaken with the object of examining the country for runs. On his
return the South Australian Government presented him with a large grant
of land in the district which he had explored.
Mr. Stuart now turned his attention to crossing the interior, and, with
the assistance of his friends Messrs. Chambers and Finke, he was enabled
to make two preparatory expeditions in the vicinity of Lake Torrens--from
April 2nd to July 3rd, 1859, and from November 4th, 1859, to January
21st, 1860. The fourth expedition started from Chambers Creek (discovered
by Mr. Stuart in 1858, and since treated as his head-quarters for
exploring purposes), on March 2nd, 1860, and consisted of Mr. Stuart and
two men, with thirteen horses. Proceeding steadily northwards, until the
country which his previous explorations had rendered familiar was left
far behind, on April 23rd the great explorer calmly records in his
Journal the following important announcement: "To-day I find from my
observations of the sun that I am now camped in the CENTRE OF AUSTRALIA."
One of the greatest problems of Australian discovery was solved! The
Centre of the continent was reached, and, instead of being an
inhospitable desert or an inland sea, it was a splendid grass country
through which ran numerous watercourses.
Leaving the Centre, a north-westerly course was followed, but, after
various repulses, a north-easterly course eventually carried the party as
far as latitude 18 degrees 47 minutes south, longitude 134 degrees, when
they were driven back by the hostility of the natives. As has already
been stated, Mr. Gregory in 1855, starting from the north-west coast, had
penetrated to the south as low as latitude 20 degrees 16 minutes,
longitude 127 degrees 35 minutes. Mr. Stuart had now reached a position
about half-way between Gregory's lowest southward point and the head of
the Gulf of Carpentaria. Without actually reaching the country explored
by Gregory, he had overlapped his brother explorer's position by one
degree and a half, or more than one hundred miles, and was about two
hundred and fifty miles in actual distance from the nearest part of the
shores of the Gulf. It is important to remark that the attack of the
savages which forced Mr. Stuart to return occurred on June 26th, 1860, so
that he had virtually crossed the continent two months before Messrs.
Burke and Wills had left Melbourne.* (* They did not leave Cooper Creek
until December 14th, rather more than a fortnight before Mr. Stuart
started on his fifth expedition.)
On New Year's day 1861, Mr. Stuart again left Adelaide, aided this time
by a grant from the Colonial Government of 2500 pounds, in addition to
the assistance of his well-tried friends Messrs. Chambers and Finke. He
made his former position with ease, and advanced about one hundred miles
beyond it, to latitude 17 degrees, longitude 133 degrees; but an
impenetrable scrub barred all further progress, and failing provisions,
etc., compelled him, after such prolonged and strenuous efforts that his
horses on one occasion were one hundred and six hours without water, most
reluctantly to return. The expedition arrived safely in the settled
districts in September, and the determined explorer, after a delay of
less than a month, was again despatched by the South Australian
Government along what had now become to him a familiar road. This time
success crowned his efforts; a passage was found northwards through the
opposing scrub, and leaving the Gulf of Carpentaria far to the right, the
Indian Ocean itself was reached. Other explorers had merely seen the rise
and fall of the tide in rivers, boggy ground and swamps intervening and
cutting off all chance of ever seeing the sea. But Stuart actually stood
on its shore and washed his hands in its waters! What a pleasure it must
have been to the leader when, knowing well from his reckoning that the
sea must be close at hand, but keeping it a secret from all except Thring
and Auld, he witnessed the joyful surprise of the rest of the party!
The expedition reached Adelaide safely, although for a long time the
leader's life was despaired of, the constant hardships of so many
journeys with scarcely any intermission having brought on a terrible
attack of scurvy. The South Australian Government in 1859 liberally
rewarded Mr. Stuart and his party for their successful enterprise.* (*
Mr. Stuart's qualities as a practised Bushman are unrivalled, and he has
always succeeded in bringing his party back without loss of life.) On the
10th of March a resolution was passed to the effect that a sum of 3500
pounds should be paid as a reward to John McDouall Stuart, Esquire, and
the members of his party, in the following proportions: Mr. Stuart 2000
pounds; Mr. Keckwick 500 pounds; Messrs. Thring and Auld 200 pounds each;
and Messrs. King, Billiatt, Frew, Nash, McGorrerey, and Waterhouse, 100
pounds each. Perhaps this is the most fitting place to express Mr.
Stuart's appreciation of the honour done him by the Royal Geographical
Society of London, in awarding him their gold medal and presenting him
with a gold watch. He wishes particularly to express his hearty thanks to
Sir Roderick Murchison, and the other distinguished members of the
society, for the lively interest they have evinced in his welfare.
Mr. Stuart's experiences have led him to form a very decided opinion as
to the cause of the well-known hot winds of Australia, so long the
subject of scientific speculation. North and north-west of Flinders Range
are large plains covered with stones, extending as far as latitude 25
degrees. To the north of that, although the sun was intensely hot, there
were no hot winds; in fact from that parallel of latitude to the Indian
Ocean, either going or returning, they were not met with. "On reaching
latitude 27 degrees on my return," writes Mr. Stuart, "I found the hot
winds prevailing again as on my outward journey. I saw no sandy desert to
which these hot winds have been attributed, but, on lifting some of the
stones that were lying on the surface,* I found them so hot that I was
obliged to drop them immediately. (* On the surface, as I suppose, of the
large plains North of Flinders Range. ED.) It is my opinion that when a
north wind blows across those stone-covered plains, it collects the heat
from them, and the air, becoming rarified, is driven on southwards with
increased vehemence. To the north of latitude 25 degrees, although
exposure to the sun in the middle of the day was very oppressive, yet the
moment we got under the shade of a tree we felt quite alive again; there
was none of that languid feeling which is experienced in the south during
a hot wind, as for example that which blew on the morning after reaching
the Hamilton,* in latitude 26 degrees 40 minutes. (* Journal 1861 to
1862.) That was one of the hottest winds I ever experienced. I had the
horses brought up at 7 o'clock, intending to proceed, but seeing there
was a very hot wind coming on, I had them turned out again. It was well I
did so, for before 10 o'clock all the horses were in small groups under
the trees, and the men lying under the shade of blankets unable to do
anything, so overpowering was the heat." Unfortunately, Mr. Stuart had no
thermometer.
Mr. Stuart is anxious to direct attention to the establishment of a
Telegraph line along his route. On this subject he writes as follows:--
"On my arrival in Adelaide from my last journey I found a great deal of
anxiety felt as to whether a line could be carried across to the mouth of
the Adelaide river. There would be a few difficulties in the way, but
none which could not be overcome and made to repay the cost of such an
undertaking. The first would be in crossing from Mr. Glen's station to
Chambers Creek, in finding timber sufficiently long for poles, supposing
that no more favourable line than I travelled over could be adopted, but
I have good reason for supposing that there is plenty of suitable timber
in the range and creek, not more than ten miles off my track: the
distance between the two places is one hundred miles. From Chambers Creek
through the spring country to the Gap in Hanson Range the cartage would
be a little farther, in consequence of the timber being scarce in some
places. There are many creeks in which it would be found, but I had not
time to examine them in detail. Another difficulty would be in crossing
the McDonnell Range, which is rough and ragged, but there is a great
quantity of timber in the Hugh; the distance to this in a straight line
is not more than seven miles; from thence to the Roper River there are a
few places where the cartage might be from ten to twenty miles, that is
in crossing the plains where only stunted gum-trees grow, but tall timber
can be obtained from the rising ground around them. From latitude 16
degrees 30 minutes south to the north coast, there would be no difficulty
whatever, as there is an abundance of timber everywhere. I am promised
information, through the kindness of Mr. Todd, of the Telegraph
department, as to the average cost of establishing the lines through the
outer districts of this colony, and it is my intention to make a
calculation of the cost of a line on my route, by which the comparative
merits and expense will be tested, and I am of opinion I shall be able to
show most favourable results. I should have been glad for this
information to have accompanied my works, but I find I cannot postpone
them longer for that purpose, as parties have already taken advantage of
the delay occasioned by my illness at the time of, and since, my arrival
home to collect what scraps of information they could obtain, with the
intention of publishing them as my travels. I leave the reward of such
conduct to a discriminating public; I shall not fail to carry out my
intention with regard to a Telegraph line; and should I have no
opportunity of submitting it to the public, I shall take care to advance
the matter in such channels as may be most likely to lead to a successful
issue. I beg reference to my map accompanying this work, which will at
once show the favourable geographical situation of the Adelaide River for
a settlement, and the short and safe route it opens up for communication
and trading with India: indeed when I look upon the present system of
shipping to that important empire, I cannot over-estimate the advantages
that such an extended intercourse would create."
Mr. Stuart is also very anxious for the formation of a new colony on the
scene of his discoveries on the River Adelaide, and would fain have been
one of the first pioneers of such an enterprise, but his health has been
so much shattered by his last journey that he can only now hope to see
younger men follow in the path which he had made his own. He writes as
follows:--
"Judging from the experience I have had in travelling through the
Continent of Australia for the last twenty-two years, and also from the
description that other explorers have given of the different portions
they have examined in their journeys, I have no hesitation in saying,
that the country that I have discovered on and around the banks of the
Adelaide River is more favourable than any other part of the continent
for the formation of a new colony. The soil is generally of the richest
nature ever formed for the benefit of mankind: black and alluvial, and
capable of producing anything that could be desired, and watered by one
of the finest rivers in Australia. This river was found by Lieutenant
Helpman to be about four to seven fathoms deep at the mouth, and at one
hundred and twenty miles up (the furthest point he reached) it was found
to be about seven fathoms deep and nearly one hundred yards broad, with a
clear passage all the way up. I struck it about this point, and followed
it down, encamping fifteen miles from its mouth, and found the water
perfectly fresh, and the river broader and apparently very deep; the
country around most excellent, abundantly supplied with fresh water,
running in many flowing streams into the Adelaide River, the grass in
many places growing six feet high, and the herbage very close--a thing
seldom seen in a new country. The timber is chiefly composed of
stringy-bark, gum, myall, casurina, pine, and many other descriptions of
large timber, all of which will be most useful to new colonists. There is
also a plentiful supply of stone in the low rises suitable for building
purposes, and any quantity of bamboo can be obtained from the river from
two to fifty feet long. I measured one fifteen inches in circumference,
and saw many larger. The river abounds in fish and waterfowl of all
descriptions. On my arrival from the coast I kept more to the eastward of
my north course, with the intention of seeing further into the country. I
crossed the sources of the running streams before alluded to, and had
great difficulty in getting more to the west. They take their rise from
large bodies of springs coming from extensive grassy plains, which proves
there must be a very considerable underground drainage, as there are no
hills of sufficient elevation to cause the supply of water in these
streams. I feel confident that, if a new settlement is formed in this
splendid country, in a few years it will become one of the brightest gems
in the British Crown. To South Australia and some of the more remote
Australian colonies the benefits to be derived from the formation of such
a colony would be equally advantageous, creating an outlet for their
surplus beef and mutton, which would be eagerly consumed by the races in
the Indian Islands, and payment made by the shipment of their useful
ponies, and the other valuable products of those islands; indeed I see
one of the finest openings I am aware of for trading between these
islands and a colony formed where proposed."
Mr. Stuart was accompanied on his last journey by Mr. Waterhouse, a
clever naturalist, whose report to the Commissioner of Crown Lands of
South Australia, although too long for insertion here, is full of most
interesting information. Unfortunately, the interests of geographical
science were apparently lost sight of in the hurry to effect the grand
object of the expedition, namely, to cross from sea to sea. Thermometers
were forgotten; two mounted maps of the country from Chambers Creek to
Newcastle Water, in a tin case, never came to hand, and the expedition
was provided with no means of estimating even the approximate height of
the elevated land or of the mountains in the interior. As Mr. Waterhouse
remarks: "The thermometers were much needed, as it would have been very
desirable to have kept a register of the temperature, and to have tested
occasionally the degree of heat at which water boiled on the high table
lands. The loss of the maps prevented my marking down at the time on the
maps the physical features of the country, and the distribution of its
fauna and flora."
Mr. Waterhouse divides the country into three divisions. The first, which
extends from Goolong Springs to a little north of the Gap in Hanson
Range, latitude 27 degrees 18 minutes 23 seconds, may be called the
spring and saltbush country. The second division commences north of the
Gap in Hanson Range, and extends to the southern side of Newcastle Water,
latitude 17 degrees 36 minutes 29 seconds. It is marked by great scarcity
of water--in fact, there are few places where water can be relied on as
permanent--and also by the presence of the porcupine grass (Triodia
pungens of Gregory, and Spinifex of Stuart), which is the prevailing
flora. The third division commences from the north end of Newcastle
Water, latitude 17 degrees 16 minutes 20 seconds, and extends to Van
Diemen Gulf, latitude 12 degrees 12 minutes 30 seconds; it comprises a
large part of Sturt Plains, with soil formed of a fine lacustrine
deposit, the valleys of the Roper filled with a luxuriant tropical
vegetation, and thence to the Adelaide River and the sea-coast.
On visiting Hergott Springs, Mr. Waterhouse learnt that Mr. Burtt, whose
station* is only a few miles distant, in opening these springs discovered
some fossil bones, casts of which were forwarded to Professor Owen, who
pronounced them to be the remains of a gigantic extinct marsupial, named
Diprotodon Australis. (* Hergott Springs were only discovered and named
by Stuart three years before, yet we now find a station close by them.
The explorer is not far ahead of his fellow-colonists, as is well
remarked by the Edinburgh Review for July, 1862: "Australian occupation
has kept close on the heels of Australian discovery.") Bones of this
animal have also been found in a newer tertiary formation in New South
Wales. Mr. Waterhouse considers that a great tertiary drift extends over
this part of the country, obscuring and concealing at no great depth
below the surface many springs, which may hereafter be discovered as the
country becomes better known.
The Louden Spa is a hot spring arising out of a small hillock, and
proceeds from the fissures of volcanic rock. This water is medicinal, but
not disagreeable to the taste: the damper made with it was very light,
and tasted like soda-bread.
In his remarks on the second division Mr. Waterhouse states much that is
valuable. He estimates the height of Mount Hay at two thousand feet,
regarding it as the highest point of the McDonnell Range, which is the
natural centre of this part of the continent. Mr. Waterhouse only saw
Chambers Pillar from a distance, but he had an opportunity of examining a
smaller hill of the same character, and found it to be composed of a soft
loose argillaceous rock, at the top of which was a thin stratum of a hard
siliceous rock, much broken up. "The isolated hills appear to have been
at some remote period connected, but from the soft and loose nature of
the lower rock meeting with the action of water, had arisen a succession
of landslips. These have been washed away and others have followed in
their turn; the upper rock, from being undermined, has fallen down and
broken up, supplying the peculiar siliceous stones so widely distributed
on parts of the surface of the country."
The vegetation of this district is poor; the myall is scarce, but the
mulga (Acacia aneura) generally plentiful. Both these shrubs are species
of acacia, the myall being of much larger growth and longer lived than
the mulga. Nutritious grass is seldom found except in the immediate
vicinity of the creeks, and the scrubs are very extensive.
Mr. Waterhouse collected a great number of specimens of natural history,
but, from want of the convenience for carrying them, many of the more
delicate objects were broken.
In the Appendix will be found some remarks by Mr. John Gould, F.R.S.,
etc., on the birds collected by Mr. Waterhouse during Mr. Stuart's
expedition, including a description of a new and beautiful parrakeet.
There are also descriptions of new species of Freshwater Shells from the
same expedition, by Mr. Arthur Adams, F.L.S., and Mr. G. French Angas, to
the skill of which latter gentleman this work is indebted for its
admirable illustrations.
Dr. Muller, the Government Botanist, Director of the Botanic Garden at
Melbourne, in his report to both Houses of the Legislature of Victoria,
April 15th, 1863, says, "A series of all the plants collected during Mr.
J.M. Stuart's last expedition was presented by the Hon. H. Strangways,
Commissioner of Crown Lands for South Australia, and those of the former
expeditions of that highly distinguished explorer, by the late J.
Chambers, Esquire, of North Adelaide." Of this collection, Dr. Muller has
furnished a systematic enumeration, which will be found in the Appendix.
This enumeration must not, however, be accepted as final, for Dr. Muller
has forwarded all the specimens to England for the inspection of Mr.
Bentham, the learned President of the Linnaean Society of London, who is
now elaborating his great and exhaustive work on the Flora of Australia,
the second volume of which will shortly be before the public.
WILLIAM HARDMAN.
CONTENTS.
JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S EXPEDITION TO THE NORTH-WEST. MAY TO SEPTEMBER,
1858.
JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S SECOND EXPEDITION (IN THE VICINITY OF LAKE
TORRENS). APRIL TO JULY, 1859.
JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S THIRD EXPEDITION (IN THE VICINITY OF LAKE
TORRENS). NOVEMBER, 1859, TO JANUARY, 1860.
JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S FOURTH EXPEDITION (FIXING THE CENTRE OF THE
CONTINENT). FROM MARCH TO SEPTEMBER, 1860.
JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S FIFTH EXPEDITION. FROM NOVEMBER, 1860, TO
SEPTEMBER, 1861.
JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S SUCCESSFUL EXPEDITION ACROSS THE CONTINENT OF
AUSTRALIA. FROM DECEMBER, 1861, TO DECEMBER, 1862.
APPENDIX.
(LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PORTRAIT OF JOHN MACDOUALL STUART. Adelaide, April 1863. Professor Hall.
Photograph.
SKETCH MAP OF AUSTRALIA, SHOWING THE POSITION OF MR. STUART'S ROUTE.
NORTH-WEST OF STUART'S CREEK.
NORTH-WEST POINT OF LAKE TORRENS.
THE HERMIT HILL AND FINNISS SPRINGS.
ELIZABETH SPRINGS.
SOUTH SHORE OF LAKE EYRE.
CHAMBERS PILLAR.
CENTRAL MOUNT STUART.
ATTACK CREEK.
BRINKLEY BLUFF.
CHAMBERS CREEK.
TABLE LAND AND VALLEY OF THE ADELAIDE.
PLANTING THE FLAG ON THE SHORES OF THE INDIAN OCEAN.)
EXPLORATIONS IN AUSTRALIA.
JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S EXPEDITION TO THE NORTH-WEST. MAY TO SEPTEMBER,
1858.
On the 14th of May, 1858, Mr. Stuart started from Oratunga (the head
station of Mr. John Chambers), accompanied by Mr. Barker, with six
horses, and all that was requisite (with one important exception, as will
be seen hereafter), for an excursion to the north-west of Swinden's
Country. They arrived at Aroona the same evening. On the following day
(the 15th) they made Morleeanna Creek, and reached Ootaina on the 16th,
about 7 p.m. Here they remained for a couple of days, as sufficient rain
had not fallen to enable them to proceed. On the afternoon of the 19th
they arrived at Mr. Sleep's, who informed them that Mr. M. Campbell had
returned from the West, being hard pushed for water; very little rain
having fallen to the west. The next day (20th) Mr. Stuart arrived at Mr.
Louden's, but, in consequence of some difficulties about the horses, he
returned to Ootaina. Various preparations, combined with want of rain,
compelled him to delay his start until the 10th of June. Here the journal
commences:--
Thursday, 10th June, 1858. Started from Ootaina at 1 p.m. for Beda.
Camped on the plain, about thirteen miles from Mount Eyre.
Friday, 11th June, West Plain. Made Mudleealpa at 11 a.m. The horses
would not drink the water. Proceeded for about five miles towards Beda.
The plains are fearfully dry; they have the appearance as if no rain had
fallen here for a long time, and I am very much afraid there will be no
water at Beda. If such should be the case, the horses will suffer too
much in the beginning of their journey to be without a drink to-night. I
think it will be best to return to Mudleealpa, leave our saddles,
rations, etc. there, and drive the horses back to water. I sent Mr.
Forster back with them, telling him if he can find no water between this
and Mr. Sleep's, to take them there, remain for the night, give them a
drink in the morning, and return; we shall then be able to make a fresh
start to-morrow. Bearings: Mount Arden, 154 degrees 30 minutes; Mount
Eyre, 77 degrees 30 minutes; Beda Hill, 272 degrees; Mount Elder, 64
degrees 50 minutes; Dutchman's Stern, 162 degrees 15 minutes.
Saturday, 12th June, Mudleealpa. In examining the creek a little higher
up, we found another well. By cleaning it out, the water is drinkable.
The horses did not arrive until it was too late to start, and having
water here now, that they can drink, we camped here another night.
Sunday, 13th June, Mudleealpa. Started for Beda. Some of the horses would
not drink the water, and others drank very little: they will be glad to
drink far worse than this before they come back, or I am much mistaken.
Arrived at Beda at sundown. I was right in my opinion; no fresh water to
be found; nothing but salt, salter than the sea. I can see nothing of Mr.
Babbage's* encampment; he must be higher up the creek. All the country we
have come over to-day is very dry. (* It will probably be recollected
that Mr. Babbage was sent out by the Government to make a north-west
course through the continent, but, when at the Elizabeth, he made an
unaccountable detour, and found himself at Port Augusta, his original
starting-point. On my return from this journey he called on me at Mount
Arden, when I furnished him with such information as he required, and he
again started, and made Chambers' Creek, which I had previously found and
named after my old friend, Mr. James Chambers, but which he called
Stuart's Creek in acknowledgment of my information, etc. J. McD. Stuart.)
Monday, 14th June, Beda. This morning we have searched all round, but can
find no fresh water, although there are numerous places that would retain
water if any quantity had fallen. Mr. Forster, whom I had sent up the
creek to Mr. Babbage's, to inquire if there was any water at Pernatta,
has returned with the information that Mr. B. was up there with all his
horses, and that there was still a little water, but not much. Started at
11.30 a.m. for that place; camped in the sand hills one hour after dark.
Here we found some pig-faces* which the horses eat freely. (* These
pig-faces belong to the Mesembryaceae, of which the common ice-plant of
our gardens is an example.) There is a great deal of moisture in them,
and they are a first-rate thing for thirsty horses; besides, they have a
powerful diuretic effect. I was unable to fix Beda Hill, all my time
being taken up in looking for water, but I hope to get its position at
Pernatta. The country was very heavy--sand hills.
Tuesday, 15th June, Sand Hills. Started at break of day for Pernatta.
About 10 a.m. met Mr. Babbage's two men returning with some of the horses
for rations. They informed me that the water was nearly all gone, but
that there was plenty in the Elizabeth, nineteen miles from Pernatta. I
intended to keep on the track, but our black insisted that Pernatta lay
through a gap, and not round the bluff. I allowed him to have his own
way. Our route was through a very stony saddle. When there we saw a gum
creek, and made for it; when we arrived at the creek he told us that was
Pernatta. We looked for water, and found a little hole, which, to our
great disappointment, contained salt water. Could see nothing of Mr.
Babbage's camp. I then asked our black where there was another water; he
said, "Down the creek," which we followed. He took us to five or six
water holes, with native names, every one dry. The last one he called
Yolticourie. It being now within an hour of sundown, I would follow him
no longer, but unsaddled, and told Mr. Forster to take the black and the
horses, and to steer for the bluff; if he found no water between, to
intersect Mr. Babbage's tracks, and follow them up and get water. I
remained with our provisions. The black fellow evidently does not know
the country. I am sorry that I have taken him with me. I think I shall
send him back; he is of little use in assisting to get the horses in the
morning.
Wednesday, 16th June, Yolticourie. The horses have returned; they found
no water last night; they were obliged to camp for the night, it being so
dark, but they found Mr. Babbage's camp very early. The horses drank all
the water. I was wrong in blaming the black fellow; he took us to the
RIGHT Pernatta. It is another water that Mr. B. is encamped at. He moves
to-day for the Elizabeth, which I also will do. He found the remains of
poor Coulthard yesterday. We must have passed quite close to them in our
search for water. He has sent for me to come and assist at the burial. It
being so late in the day (12 o'clock), and the horses requiring more
water, and he having four men besides himself, I do not see that I can be
of any use, and it might cause me to lose another day, and the horses to
be another night without water, which would be an injury to them, they
not having had sufficient this morning. Mr. B. also sent to say that he
would accompany me to the Elizabeth. I have delayed an hour for him, and
he has not yet made his appearance; it being now 1 o'clock, and having to
travel seventeen miles, I can wait no longer. Started for Bottle Hill;
arrived on the south side of the hill an hour and a half before sundown,
found some water and plenty of grass; encamped for the night. Distance
to-day, seventeen miles. The former part of the journey was over very
stony country; the latter part very heavy sand hills.
Thursday, 17th June, Bottle Hill. Got on the top of Bottle Hill to take
bearings, but was disappointed; could see no hill except one, which was
either Mount Deception or Mount North-west; the bearing was 51 degrees 30
minutes. There is a small cone of stones on the top, and a flat stone on
the top of it, with the names of Louden and Burtt. From here I saw the
gum trees in the Elizabeth; course to them 325 degrees 30 minutes, seven
miles to the creek. The country from the hill here is of the very worst
description--nothing but sand and salt bush.
Friday, 18th June, The Elizabeth. We must rest our horses to-day, they
have not yet recovered from their long thirst. I am quite disappointed
with this creek and the surrounding country. The water is not permanent,
it is only rain water; since we arrived yesterday it has shrunk a great
deal. There are small plains on each side from a quarter to half a mile
broad with salt bush; the hills are very stony with a little salt bush,
and destitute of timber, except the few gum-trees in the creek and the
mulga bushes in the sand hills.
Saturday, 19th June, The Elizabeth. The sky was quite overcast with cloud
during the night, and a few drops of rain fell, but of no consequence.
Started at 9.30 a.m., on a bearing of 308 degrees for six miles; changed
the bearing to 355 degrees for one mile and a half; next bearing 328
degrees for four miles, to the north side of a dry swamp; next bearing 4
degrees for ten miles and a half; next bearing 350 degrees for four miles
to a sand hill. Camped. Distance to-day, twenty-five miles, over a very
bad country, with large fragments of a hard flinty stone covering the
surface. Salt bush with small sand hills. No water.
Sunday, 20th June, Sand Hill. Started at 9 a.m., on a course of 25
degrees for sixteen miles. At 1 p.m., came upon a creek, in which I
thought there might be water; examined it and found two water holes, with
plenty of grass upon their banks. The water is not permanent. Our course
to-day has been across stony plains (covered on the surface with
fragments resembling hard white quartz), with sand hills about two miles
broad dividing them. The black did not know of this water; I am very
doubtful of his knowing anything of the country. The stony plains are
surrounded by high heavy sand hills, especially to the west and
north-west; I dare not attempt to get through them without rain. They are
much higher than the country that I am travelling through. It seems as if
there had been no rain for twelve months, every thing is so dried and
parched up. On further examination of the creek we have found a large
hole of clear water, with rushes growing round it; I almost think it is
permanent, and intend to run the risk of falling back upon it should I be
forced to retreat and wait for rain. The creek seems to drain the large
stony plains that we crossed; the water is three and a half feet deep,
ten yards wide, by forty yards long.
Monday, 21st June, Water Creek. Started at 9.30 a.m. on a course of 25
degrees. At a mile passed a small table-topped hill to the west of our
line; at three miles and a half crossed the creek; at four miles passed
another table-topped hill connected with the low range to the east, and
passed the first ironstone hill; at seven miles changed to 55 degrees; at
eight miles halted at a large permanent water hole (Andamoka). I can with
safety say that this is permanent; it is a splendid water hole, nearly as
large as the one at the mouth of the gorge in the John. The low range to
the east of our course, and running nearly parallel with it, is composed
of conglomerate, quartz, and a little ironstone. Part of to-day's journey
was over low undulating sandy and very well grassed country. There seems
to have been a little rain here lately; the grass is springing
beautifully. At eleven miles we came upon a salt lagoon (Wealaroo) two
miles long by one broad. From the north end of it, on a bearing of 55
degrees, one mile and a half will strike Andamoka. I think we have now
left the western sand hills behind us; and now that we have permanent
water to fall back on, I shall strike into the north-west to-morrow. The
distance travelled to-day was fifteen miles. The country around this
water consists of bold stony rises and sand, with salt bush and grass; no
timber except mulga and a few myall bushes in the creek. On an
examination of the creek, we have found salt water above and below this
hole. In one place above there are cakes of salt one inch and a half
thick, a convincing proof that this is supplied by springs.
Tuesday, 22nd June, Andamoka. Started on a bearing of 342 degrees. At
seven miles and a half, crossed a low stony range running east-north-east
and west-south-west, which turned out to be table land, with sand hills
crossing our line, bearing to a high range east of us 93 degrees 30
minutes. About eight miles in the same direction there is the appearance
of a long salt lake. At nine miles and a half, on a sand hill, I obtained
the following bearings: Mount North-west, 60 degrees 30 minutes; Mount
Deception, 95 degrees. At eleven miles and a half passed a large reedy
swamp on our left, dry. At seventeen miles sand hills ceased. At eighteen
miles and a half the sand hills again commenced, and we changed our
course to north for three miles. Camped for the night at a creek of
permanent water, very good. The last four miles of to-day's journey have
been over very stony rises with salt bush and a little grass.
Wednesday, 23rd June, Permanent Water Creek. The horses had strayed so
far that we did not get a start until 10 a.m. Bearing to-day, 318
degrees. At two miles crossed a tea-tree creek, in which there is water,
coming from the stony rises, and running to the north of east. At six
miles the sand hills again commence. To this place we have come over a
stony plain, covered on the surface with fragments of limestone, quartz,
and ironstone, with salt bush and grass. In a watery season it must be
well covered with grass; the old grass is lying between the salt bushes.
We have a view of part of the lake (Torrens) bearing north-east about
fifteen or twenty miles from us; to the west again the stony rises,
apparently more open. At ten miles, in the sand hills, we have again a
view of Flinders range. The bearings are: Mount North-west, 78 degrees 35
minutes; Mount Deception, 107 degrees. At fourteen and a half miles we
found a clay-pan of water, with beautiful green feed for the horses. As
we don't know when we shall find more water, and as Forster has a damper
to bake, I decide to camp for the rest of the day. Our route has lain
over heavy sand hills for the last eight miles.
Thursday, 24th June, Sand Hills. At 8.30 we left on a course of 340
degrees, commencing with about two miles of rather heavy sand hills. At
eight miles these sand hills diminished, and the valleys between them
became much wider--both sand hills and valleys being well covered with
grass and salt bush, with courses of lime and ironstone cropping out and
running east and west. At twelve miles changed our course to 79 degrees,
to examine a gum creek (Yarraout), which we ran down for water, but did
not obtain it before four miles, when we found a small hole of rain
water. This creek seems to be a hunting-ground of the natives, as we saw
a great many summer worleys on its banks. They had evidently been here
to-day, for, a little above where we first struck the creek, we saw some
smoke, but on following it up, we found they had gone; most likely they
had seen us and run away. The latter part of our journey to-day was over
a stony plain, bounded on the west by the stony table land with the sand
hills on the top. All this country seems to have been under water, and is
most likely the bed of Lake Torrens, or Captain Sturt's inland sea. In
travelling over the plains, one is reminded of going over a rough,
gravelly beach; the stones are all rounded and smooth. Distance to-day,
thirty miles.
Friday, 25th June, Yarraout Gum Creek. Started at 9.40 from the point
where we first struck the creek last night, bearing 20 degrees for two
miles, thence 61 degrees for one mile to a high sand hill, thence 39
degrees for one mile to a stony rise. My doubt of the black fellow's
knowledge of the country is now confirmed; he seems to be quite lost, and
knows nothing of the country, except what he has heard other blacks
relate; he is quite bewildered and points all round when I ask him the
direction of Wingillpin. I have determined to push into the westward,
keeping a little north of west. Bearing 292 degrees for five miles, sand
hills; thence 327 degrees to a table-hill nine miles. Camped without
water. Our route to-day has been through sand hills, with a few miles of
stones and dry reedy swamp, all well grassed, but no water. We came
across some natives, who kept a long distance off. I sent our black up to
them, to ask in which direction Wingillpin lay. They pointed to the
course I was then steering, and said, "Five sleeps." They would not come
near to us. About three-quarters of an hour afterwards I came suddenly
upon another native, who was hunting in the sand hills. My attention
being engaged in keeping the bearing, I did not observe him until he
moved, but I pulled up at once, lest he should run away, and called to
him. What he imagined I was I do not know; but when he turned round and
saw me, I never beheld a finer picture of astonishment and fear. He was a
fine muscular fellow, about six feet in height, and stood as if riveted
to the spot, with his mouth wide open, and his eyes staring. I sent our
black forward to speak with him, but omitted to tell him to dismount. The
terrified native remained motionless, allowing our black to ride within a
few yards of him, when, in an instant, he threw down his waddies, and
jumped up into a mulga bush as high as he could, one foot being about
three feet from the ground, and the other about two feet higher, and kept
waving us off with his hand as we advanced. I expected every moment to
see the bush break with his weight. When close under the bush, I told our
black to inquire if he were a Wingillpin native. He was so frightened he
could not utter a word, and trembled from head to foot. We then asked him
where Wingillpin was. He mustered courage to let go one hand, and
emphatically snapping his fingers in a north-west direction, again waved
us off. I take this emphatic snapping of his fingers to mean a long
distance. Probably this Wingillpin may be Cooper's Creek. We then left
him, and proceeded on our way through the sand hills. About an hour
before sunset, we came in full sight of a number of tent and table-topped
hills to the north-west, the stony table land being to the south of us,
and the dip of the country still towards Lake Torrens. I shall keep a
little more to the west to-morrow if possible, to get the fall of the
country the other way. The horses' shoes have been worn quite thin by the
stones, and will not last above a day or two. Nay, some of the poor
animals are already shoeless. It is most unfortunate that we did not
bring another set with us. Distance to-day, twenty-four miles.