the evening, and dined at the palace. Ibrahim's army is passing the
Taurus, and will soon be followed by its chief, who is taking the baths
near Kutahieh. It is perfectly true, that Greek pilots are on board the
Russian men-of-war, and that the Count Orloff has proposed to the Sultan
to man the Turkish fleet with Russian artillery-men; so little
dependence can be placed on their own sailors, should they come to blows
with France or England.
_Sunday, 19th._--This morning I went over to the Sultan's Valley, which
is kept by outposts of Turks and Russians, one of each nation mounting
sentinel together. The Russian has orders to instruct his Turkish
comrade in the manual exercise, and in marching, during the time they
are on duty. The poor Turks do not like it; for, when left to
themselves, they make but lazy guards.
The Captain of the Actaeon considers that he has received a marked
affront from the Russian Commander-in-Chief. In consequence of his
invitation, he went to head-quarters, and sent in his name; but after
being kept standing for twenty minutes in the hall, among orderlies and
common soldiers, he came away in disgust. Next day the General, who was
probably a little alarmed, came on board to make an apology, saying the
whole matter originated in a mistake, and that the attendants were
ignorant of the rank of his English visitor. What! not recognise a
captain in his Britannic Majesty's navy, commanding a frigate which lies
moored within sight of the Russian army, when he visits its General in
full uniform, in his boat, and with his pennant displayed? I think it is
full time that these northern barbarians should be instructed, with the
point of the bayonet, in the respect due to a British officer. However,
it is to be hoped that such insolence will not long remain unpunished.
[Sidenote: RUSSIAN MILITARY PUNISHMENT.] In this beautiful valley there
is a kiosk of the Sultan, at present used as a paper-mill; and near the
landing-place stands a large house once occupied by an Englishman, sent
hither by the Sultan to establish a leather manufactory. It is now the
Russian head-quarters, the valley being their exercising ground. This
morning a Russian soldier was flogged at parade. I was not in time to
witness the punishment, but it was explained to me by one of the
midshipmen. The whole regiment was drawn up in two lines facing each
other, each man having in his hand a small twig or stick. The offender,
stripped of his jacket and shirt, was made to run the gauntlet through
the ranks, every man giving him a sharp cut as he passed, while the
officers and sergeants stood by to see that the blows were sufficiently
severe; and in case of any neglect, the delinquents are punished
themselves. The man roared like a bull, and seemed to suffer immensely.
[Sidenote: SULTAN'S VALLEY.] Under the pleasant shade of some remarkably
fine plane trees growing near to each other, close to the borders of a
stream, thousands of Turkish and Armenian, as well as Greek parties,
formerly came to spend the day during the summer months. This is all
over now: the presence of the Russians prevents a single pic-nic, and
the lovely valley is deserted. Crossing over to the European side, I
walked along the shore towards Buyukdere, and at the point of Kerridge
Bournu enjoyed a fine view of the entrance to the Black Sea, and the old
Venetian castles which rise so romantically on the opposite coast, a
little beyond the Giant's Mountain. The view in the Sultan's Valley is
very grand, and the undulating hills approach each other in a
picturesque manner, forming a wooded vista, terminated in the distance
by the arched aqueduct which carries the water across several deep
valleys from the bents near Belgrade to Constantinople. These bents are
large reservoirs, resembling artificial lakes, bordered by thick woods,
groves, and pasture land, and converting their immediate vicinity into a
beautiful and luxuriant landscape, while all around is barren and
exhausted.
[Sidenote: RUSSIANS AND TURKS.] _Monday, 20th._--I strolled about in the
Sultan's Valley till dinner-time; and on returning again in the evening
to play at cricket with the officers of the Actaeon, I found all the
Russian cavalry horses had been turned out to graze. They are sorry
steeds, supplied for the Cossacks by the Sultan; they seemed, however,
to enjoy this liberty very much. Just before dusk, some Russian soldiers
came down to catch them, and we amused ourselves with observing their
motions. In vain they drove them from one side to the other, and into
all the corners of this extensive pasture-ground; it was of no use, they
would not be caught either by stratagem, or the temptation of corn. An
old white stallion seemed to be the prime devil of the lot; for the
moment the men got near, away he gallopped, kicking and flinging, with
all the others at his heels. The Turkish commmandant of the army
encamped near the Russians now came and sat down, and took a pipe. He
laughed heartily at the discomfiture of his Frankish allies; and when we
asked him how he liked them, (for he understood Italian, though he could
not speak it,) making every sign of contempt, he spat upon the ground,
pronouncing the word Rusky; as much as to say, he spat in their faces,
and called them some very unpolite names in Turkish. But the Inglez--oh!
and then he shook our hands--they were good fellows, he liked them
exceedingly. When our midshipmen visited the Russians, they did not
offer them any refreshment; but on their arrival at the Turkish
encampment they were immediately taken to the officers' tent, and
regaled with ices, coffee, pipes, lemonade, &c.; and it was with
difficulty that they got away from their hospitable entertainers. When
it became dark, there came down a reinforcement of Cossacks, and after a
short chase the horses were caught. [Sidenote: RUSSIAN HORN BANDS.] The
Russian and Turkish bands play every evening for a couple of hours. The
latter also chant hymns at meal-time and at sunset; and the sound of so
many voices, pealing forth these solemn and beautiful airs, and swelling
and modulating as the breeze wafts them over the waves, diffuses over
the mind a sensation of tranquillity which it is difficult for language
to describe.
_Thursday, 23d._--Went to the other side of Pera, to visit a garden
established by a Frenchman for vegetables and the cultivation of the
vine. He makes a delicious wine from the Chious grape, called
Altintash, resembling the white lachryma of Vesuvius, but neither so
strong nor so highly flavoured. He also manufactures an effervescing
liquor, in imitation of champagne, but very inferior to that sparkling
elixir, of which many of the Turks are, in secret, decided worshippers.
[Sidenote: ANECDOTE.] This evening, while sitting under the cypresses
near the walls of Galata, upon the grass-covered tomb of an old Turk,
our guide, Guiseppino, amused us with some Venetian tales, of which the
following is a specimen:--"Many years since, there arrived in Venice a
traveller of commanding exterior, and very magnificently dressed. He
appeared exceedingly inquisitive respecting the curiosities of the city,
and spent all his time in visiting the palaces, the museums, cathedrals,
&c. One day, he called a gondolier, desiring that he might be carried to
the church of a certain saint. The boat accordingly plied through
several canals, and pulled up, at length, near the stairs of a church.
The gentleman entered the building, but quickly returned, saying,--'That
it was not the church he sought.'--'Well, then,' replied the gondolier,
'we will try another.' In this way they visited half a dozen churches;
but the traveller was still unsatisfied. The gondolier was in despair:
he had been rowing to and fro, from one end of Venice to the other, for
the last four hours. At length he suddenly pulled up before a very
ancient and venerable building; the gentleman entered, but as quickly
came out again, with the same complaint. 'Not right this time?' said the
gondolier: 'Why this is the church of Tutti Santi[11]; and if your
patron saint is not here, by San Giacomo, he is in no other church of
Venice!'".
[Sidenote: COLLEGE OF PAGES.] _Friday, 24th._--To-day I passed by the
ruins of the College of Pages, situated at the north end of Pera. Here
were educated, in various languages and accomplishments, the pages of
the Sultan,--selected from the sons of persons of the greatest
distinction among the Turks. Their education began about the age of nine
years, and continued till they were thought sufficiently instructed to
attend to the duties of their appointments about the Sultan's palace.
This noble structure was destroyed in the great fire; and will,
probably, never be rebuilt, unless some rich merchant purchases the
ground and materials, or some foreign ambassador receives it as a
present. Passed through the Christian burying-ground, which is adorned
with beautiful walks, overshadowed by cypresses; it is the favourite
winter promenade. Thence a steep descent leads to the Sultan's new
barracks; which are handsome square buildings, with regular windows, and
a turret at each angle. [Sidenote: SULTAN'S VISIT TO THE MOSQUE.] The
Sultan himself is now staying at his new palace in the neighbourhood of
Dolma Batche; and the streets of the village were gravelled for him to
go to prayers, which we were informed he would do at twelve o'clock.
From a dread of tumult or assassination, he never visits any mosque in
the city, contrary to the custom of his predecessors; and, for similar
reasons, he never announces to which he will go until the same morning,
and that as late as possible: in fact, time is only allowed for the
guards to assemble, and the ordinary preparations to be made for
receiving him.
[Illustration: Drawn & Etched by George. Cruikshank, from a Sketch by the
Author.
The Sultan going to Mosque.
Published by Longman & Co. April, 1835.]
At half past eleven we were enlivened by the distant sounds of "Zitti,
Zitti," played by a military band; and in a short time afterwards a
regiment marched by the coffee-house in which we were smoking, and drew
up on either side of the street, which extends from the new palace to
the mosque. The band was stationed about midway, and no one was allowed
to pass or remain standing. On taking our position in front of the crowd
at the appointed hour, a Turkish officer came up, and politely
addressed us in French, with an invitation to come within the file. He
led us some distance nearer the palace, and placed us under a doorway;
where we were joined by a German baron, who resides near the village,
and who appeared to be on very friendly terms with all the officers,
three of whom speak French. The one to whom we were indebted for our
present advantageous situation remained some time conversing with us. He
was a very handsome man, the son of a Georgian; and is esteemed a good
officer, being second in command, although only nineteen years of age.
He quitted us, to join a party of American ladies, who came within the
lines, and as soon as the Sultan had passed by, he ordered ices and
lemonade for them; and although he has never been out of Constantinople,
he behaved just as any well-bred European officer would have done under
similar circumstances. [Sidenote: ANECDOTE.] As we stood chatting
together, our German friend related a curious adventure which happened
to him last year:--He was out shooting behind the village, when his
Highness rode up, accompanied by two or three officers; and as it is
unlawful to appear in the Sultan's presence with fire-arms, the German
felt himself in a very embarrassed situation. However, he stood still,
taking off his hat. The Sultan, on passing, looked hard at him; and just
at that moment, a swallow, happening to fly towards the party, he
pointed to it, and said "Tirez!" The German, though in a great fright,
understood him perfectly: he fired, and, as luck would have it, killed
the bird, which fell at the head of the Sultan's horse. His Highness was
quite delighted, exclaiming, "Eh, eh," (good, good,) and desired one of
the attendants to enquire who the sportsman was, and where he lived;
after which he rode away. Next morning, a person attached to the court
came to the baron's house, with a present of china, flowers, and a purse
containing 5000 piastres, which his sublime Highness had condescended to
present to the successful shot. The baron requested the bearer to take
his compliments and thanks to his master, and say, that he was ready to
kill a swallow every day for the same reward.
[Sidenote: SULTAN'S VISIT TO THE MOSQUE.] Namik Pasha, who had arrived
from England, France, and Prussia only a few days before, now came to
tell us, that as it was past the usual time of the Sultan's going to the
mosque, he was afraid he would not come at all to-day; that he had left
him with Count Orloff, with whom he was in a towering passion, many
angry speeches having passed between the cunning diplomatist and the
enraged sovereign. However, soon after, the order to fix bayonets and
shoulder arms, both of which were very well executed, announced his
approach, and in a few minutes afterwards the band struck up his
favourite march. At the head of the procession were three led horses,
richly caparisoned, having saddle-cloths embroidered with gold and
precious stones, and bridles ornamented in a similar gorgeous style.
They were noble-looking animals, and seemed as if conscious of the
magnificence with which they were decorated. Next to these followed
about thirty officers, consisting of generals, colonels, and captains of
the fleet, walking two and two: they wore a sort of frock coat, with
that description of cap called a fez. [Sidenote: HIS PERSONAL
APPEARANCE.] After the ministers of state, came his Sublime Highness
himself on horseback, closely wrapped up in a greyish brown cloak, with
a collar of diamonds, emeralds, and rubies, arranged in the form of
flowers--the richest and most brilliant ornament I ever beheld. Like his
officers, he also wore a plain fez, to the silk tassel of which the
paper was still left attached, as is customary with the lower orders of
the people; this fashion, in fact, seems almost universal; and when the
paper is destroyed, a new tassel is put to the cap. It was drawn close
over his ears, and down to his large black eyebrows, and his beard hung
over the diamond clasp of the cloak. His face is long; his nose,
slightly arched, indicates talent and resolution; and his eye is
remarkably large, bright, and penetrating. We took off our hats as he
passed: he looked earnestly at us, without turning his head, and after
acknowledging the salute by a slight inclination of his body, again
addressed himself to Namik Pasha, with whom he had been conversing
before he came up to us. Another party of officers closed the
procession. The Sultan has the appearance of being about fifty-five
years of age; and his blotched face, and red nose, sufficiently indicate
a _penchant_ for the bottle: indeed, on the present occasion, he
displayed strong symptoms of being in what is called "a state of
liquor," as well as in a most particular bad humour. It is reported that
he and his sword-bearer get drunk together every day, and that he once
forced the Grand Mufti to drink half a bottle of Champagne, which he
refused at first, declaring that to do so was contrary to the religion
and ordinances of the Prophet. But the Sultan told him that he was
himself the Head of the Church, and that he would make a new ordinance,
bidding the Mufti swallow what was offered him, or take the
consequences of disobedience. Upon this the Chief Priest drank off the
potion, perhaps, after all, by no means new or unacceptable; and the
Sultan, turning to a certain officer of state, who had also refused the
wine on account of similar scruples, said, "Now then you may drink,
seeing that the Head of the Church and the Chief Priest have set you the
example."
[Sidenote: NEW REGULATION SOLDIER.] In about a quarter of an hour the
Sultan returned in the same manner, and entering his palace, the
regiment marched off in good order. It was almost entirely composed of
boys; and though the whole body looked rather imposing when together,
yet individually they have by no means a military air or appearance.
Their uniform is extremely mean and unbecoming: it consists of a fez
cap, worn slouching over the eyes and ears; an ill-made jacket of coarse
blue cloth, faced and turned up with red; coarse white Russia duck
trousers, always exceedingly dirty; Wellington boots in the same
condition, into one of which the right leg of the pantaloon is generally
stuffed, while the left hangs in the ordinary fashion, or is turned up
over the ankle; the bayonet and cartouch box are both suspended at least
half a foot lower than they should be; and their linen and persons are
also disgustingly filthy. The whole of this description is by no means
an exaggerated sketch of the new regulation soldier--the hope of the
Sultan, and the terror--of whom? of himself. It is but justice, however,
to add, that the officers of this regiment presented a striking contrast
to their men, being all good looking, well dressed, and of a
soldier-like appearance; the band also was respectable, and executed
their different marches in a masterly style.
[Sidenote: PALACE OF THE BRITISH EMBASSY.] I returned by Tophana, where
there is a great mart for tobacco pipes in the vicinity of the fountain
before described. In the evening I went into the garden of the English
palace, which is very beautiful, with shrubberies, shady walks, and
bowers; but the building itself is in ruins, having been destroyed
during the late fire. Being quite isolated from any other dwelling, and
surrounded by a large garden enclosed with lofty walls, it was positive
negligence that caused its destruction. The ambassador, Sir Robert
Gordon, was up the Bosphorus, and his principal servant obstinately
refused to allow any one to enter the room where the fire had
originated, until it was too late. The damages are estimated at
20,000_l._, and perhaps the best thing that could now be done would be
to sell the materials, and either let the ground on building leases, or
dispose of it altogether. By either of these methods, a large sum would
certainly be realised, and with the produce a suitable house might be
purchased in Pera, when it is decisively ascertained that the Russians
are not to be the future masters of Constantinople; until then, it would
be useless to think of spending the money. In fact, there can be no
question that the ambassador ought to reside in Pera, in the winter
season, when the roads are often blocked up with snow, and the wind on
the Bosphorus so violent, that all communication by water, with the
villages far up the channel, is cut off; so that serious evils might
arise, not only from the distance, but occasionally from the
impossibility of claiming the ambassador's protection on any sudden
emergency. The Russians are building a splendid palace in Pera; that of
the Austrian mission was not injured; and the representatives of the new
Allies, England and France, are the only two who do not make Pera their
residence, much to the inconvenience of merchants, and all persons
connected with the embassy, particularly the members of the diplomatic
corps.
[Sidenote: ARM BAZAR.] _Saturday, 25th._--Went to the arm bazar, or
curiosity shop, which I found stored with a motley show of weapons,
dresses, ornaments, horse trappings, and armour, such as would make
George Robins's fortune, could he send his myrmidons of porters to lay
hands on all they could carry away. Helmets, spears, bucklers, bows,
battle-axes, swords, daggers, rifles, long guns; in a word, every
species of offensive and defensive weapon, from the common musket of the
English soldier to the stiff bow of the Persian, were here gathered
together from every kingdom of the East and West. [Sidenote: DAMASCUS
SWORD BLADES.] A fat Turk, squatting on his counter, tempts you, on one
hand, with a blade of the rarest Damascus steel, inscribed from hilt to
point with some verse from the Koran in Arabic letters of gold; such as
an invocation to the one God,--"Strength to the arm who wields the blade
in a righteous cause, and death to him it reaches," &c. Drawing the
sword from the gold-embroidered velvet scabbard, he rings it with his
nail, to convince you of its soundness and temper. [Sidenote: SCENE IN
THE BAZAR.] Cast your eyes in the opposite direction, and you may
observe the Armenian, in the next stall, winking and slily beckoning you
towards him. He smiles, should you condescend to notice him, but frowns
and shows impatience when you appear to disregard his attempts to seduce
you from his portly rival. The latter, finding you will not buy the
sword, displays his pistols, silks, mouth-pieces of tempting amber, and
appears determined that you shall purchase something; till at length,
his patience being fairly exhausted, he packs up his wares, and
surrenders you to the wiles of his now triumphant opponent, who feels
satisfied that he can make you take something off his hands, though the
Turk was unsuccessful. As most Englishmen appear to value swords, he
takes from his cupboard a black-looking, dust-covered, white-handled
weapon; and pushing aside his long robe with an air of the utmost
importance, he draws forth the blade, which proves to be a black
Khorassan, entirely destitute of ornament: he rings it, it returns a
silver sound; he points out the beautiful watering, the gradual
deepening of the colour from the edge to the back, and finishes by
swearing to you, whilst he looks towards the Armenians and Jew brokers
gathered around for their attesting nods, that it is the most exquisite
blade in Stamboul; that it will cut a lawn kerchief, thrown into the
air, into two parts, as clean as a pair of scissors. He then closes his
panegyric with the demand of, "How much will you give?" Scarcely waiting
for a reply, he throws it aside, as if of no value; and, in imitation of
his neighbour the Turk, endeavours to keep your curiosity awake, by
placing all his wares before you. [Sidenote: JEW BROKERS.] The instant
you turn from the disappointed merchant, you are assailed by twenty Jew
brokers at once, who, having espied their quarry from afar, have
assembled from all quarters of the bazar, and, like a flock of vultures,
are waiting near to devour you, congratulating themselves on your
unwillingness to buy of the cunning Armenian. One attacks you in bad
Italian, another in modern Greek, interlarded with a few words of
unintelligible English or French. Each is master of a stall; where,
according to his own account, you can purchase whatever you want at the
greatest advantage, though, as yet, they know not what that is, even if
you do yourself. Thus, like Actaeon, the unfortunate stranger is exposed
to the chance of being torn to pieces by the dogs who profess to call
him master, and to do his utmost bidding.
The bazar is always crowded with buyers, sellers, and idlers, so that it
costs some little squeezing and pushing to get through its various
passages. When a large purchase is contemplated, or if the seller be an
Armenian or Greek, he will adjourn with you to the neighbouring
coffee-house, and there, over a pipe and a cup of coffee, the bargain is
concluded on much better terms than in public, where, possibly, the
merchant's pride would not relish the exposure of abating some hundred
piastres, and where the sharks of brokers might lay claim to a good
recompense, for bringing the _Ingles capu dou_ to be plucked.