from the screams of the disputing parties, and the vociferating of
prices by those who have articles for sale. It is a sort of Babel in
miniature, where Jews and brokers push by you every instant, hastily
shuffling along, and loaded with some piece of second-hand finery to be
put up at auction; such as, for instance, an incense salver, a piece of
Persian silk, an Albanian rifle, an old silk or velvet robe, embroidered
with gold, the property of some gay Turkish lady, who having exhausted
her purse the day before in a party of pleasure to the Keathane "Sweet
Waters," wishes to replenish it by the sale of a portion of her
wardrobe. To these may be added, amber mouth-pieces, bundles of long
pipe-sticks, a lot of worn-out clothes, a Persian battle-axe, China
ornaments for scents, coffee cups with their silver filigree stands, a
Cashmere shawl, &c. Each seller bawls out the last bidding for his
separate commodity in the highest note of which his voice is capable;
and as all are pitched in different keys, the stranger is soon driven
forth to seek a purer and more quiet retreat, either within the gold and
silver embroidery bazar, or in that of the Broussa silks, close by.
[Illustration: Drawn & Etched by George Cruikshank from a Sketch by the
Author.
Slave Market, Constantinople.
Published by Longman & Co. April, 1835.]
[Sidenote: SLAVE MARKET.] Quitting this scene of tumult, I visited a
place of a very different character,--the slave market, situated in a
square yard, three sides of which are occupied by low stone buildings,
with wooden sheds projecting in front. They were divided into rows of
cells, each having a window and door opening into the wooden enclosure
just mentioned. Within these dens,--and they exactly resemble the cells
usually occupied by wild beasts,--a "crowd of shivering slaves" were
seen either penned up within the inner apartment, or lying about, like
cattle, in the open space in front. They appeared to be all
Nubians,--black, dirty, and clothed in ragged blankets. Born to no other
inheritance but slavery, they seemed wholly unconscious of their
degraded state; and continued chattering unconcernedly, and, to all
appearance, very happy. As I stood gazing on the novel scene, the
ruffian keeper (and never did a vile, debasing occupation stamp its
character more indelibly on the physiognomy of man) led one of the black
victims forth, to meet the speculating caprices of a haggard old
Turkish woman. He proceeded to point out her good qualities, and to
descant on the firmness of her muscles, the robustness of her limbs, and
her mature age; at the same time pinching her tender flesh, by way of
proving the truth of his assertions, till the poor creature shrieked out
with agony. He then tore down her eye-lids, to exhibit the healthiness
of her eye-balls; and wrenched open her mouth, to prove, by ocular
demonstration, that he practised no deception in speaking of her age.
The old woman herself examined her all the time, and haggled, as to the
price, like a butcher when purchasing an ox in the cattle market. As I
witnessed all this, my heart sickened, and I turned with loathing from
the disgusting spectacle. Yet the poor negress was wanted only for a
domestic slave, and would, probably, be kindly treated, when once the
property of the old hag, who, I believe, purchased her at last for 1000
piastres, or fifty dollars. Indeed the girl appeared to be conscious
that the change would be advantageous to her, from the meekness with
which she bore the treatment of her persecutors. Proceeding a little
further on, we observed, sitting at the window of one of the cells, a
solitary female, whose head was covered with a linen veil. On hearing
our approach, she looked at us through its folds; in an instant after,
the covering was removed, and a pair of brilliant, dark eyes shed their
lustre upon us. Nowadays a white slave is seldom found in the market,
the Russians protecting the Circassian and the Georgian, and the French
and English the Greek. When they do appear, they are generally disposed
of at a high price. [Sidenote: GEORGIAN SLAVE.] This beautiful captive,
who proved to be a Georgian, was neither bashful nor timid. She saluted
us with smiles, severing her raven locks, and trying to captivate the
spectators, by making her beauty appear to the greatest advantage.
However, it did not seem to possess any power over the Turks; and as to
the Christians, they are not allowed to purchase slaves publicly, though
sometimes it is done indirectly, and by the assistance of some friendly
Osmanli. I saw but three or four men-slaves, with a few boys, all
Nubians, and, like their female companions, in a dirty, miserable
condition. They were chained together, two and two, by the ankles.
Having now satisfied my curiosity in regard to this much talked-of but
loathsome spot, I was most glad to hear the proposition that we should
adjourn to Mustapha's. From him we learned that the Georgian beauty had
been exposed to sale for several days; but that no one had offered to
purchase her, the sum demanded being exorbitant. Her proprietor was a
rich man, and could afford to wait until some one consented to put down
the 2500 piastres at which he valued her.
[Sidenote: TURKISH CONFECTIONERY.] Passing through the old-clothes'
bazar, the Monmouth Street of Stamboul, we came to a range of stalls
occupied by the engravers and cutters of precious stones. Many talismans
were offered to us, set very neatly in blood-stone, carnelian, and lapis
lazuli. The day was wound up with the important business of tasting the
different varieties of confectionery to be found in a large, handsome
shop near the Balouk bazar. All were luscious, and many, particularly
the preserved rose leaves, were even delicate. We partook of some thirty
or forty different sorts; in which flowers, scents, fruits, and gums
were mixed with sugar, until of the consistence of damson cheese. The
Turks eat a vast quantity of these cloying sweetmeats, after which they
drink abundance of sherbet. A glass of good brandy, however, would, in
my opinion, be a much better corrective.
[Sidenote: ARMENIAN VISITORS.] _Sunday, 26th._--Went up to Terapia this
morning, and spent the day in wandering through the Sultan's Valley,
under the superb plane trees, and returned to dine on board the Actaeon.
After dinner, a party of young Armenians came on board, accompanied by
their tutor. They were sons of a man of distinguished rank among his
countrymen, residing on the Bosphorus; and one of them, the eldest,
about eighteen years of age, was so fat, round, and sleek, that we all
decided him to be what Baba threatened to make poor Juan. The other two
brothers were very fine intelligent lads, and there was also a cousin
with them, a heavy, shy, youngster. The tutor, who was a young man of
about twenty-two, spoke French, Italian, English, and Latin, fluently.
His pupils, likewise, understood a little English, and French uncommonly
well. They were delighted with their reception, and remained a long time
at table in the gun-room, drinking their wine with much relish, and
seeming to prefer it to coffee, especially the younger boy, who, had he
been permitted, would have willingly finished a whole bottle to his own
share. On taking leave, they invited us all to their father's residence;
but we never availed ourselves of the invitation, possibly because we
discovered that they had no sisters; and the inside of the black house,
below Jene Keni, was in itself an insufficient attraction, without the
chance of getting a glimpse of a fair Armenian girl, divested of her
odious gashmak, and the form-concealing cloak.
The evening was lovely, and my sail down to Pera delightful: no sound
broke upon the ear, save the rippling of the current against the caique
as it glided lightly along, like the bird, which skims closely over the
surface of the ocean, and appears to bathe its plumage in the waves,
though in reality without wetting its crescent wings.
[Sidenote: ORIENTAL COSTUME.] _Monday, 27th._--Strolled again in the
bazar: this word means barter, or the act of bargaining for the sale or
purchase of any commodity; and it is in them that all the retail trade
of Constantinople is carried on. As these cloistered passages exclude
the rays of the sun, they are cool and pleasant places to lounge in,
except that the pavement is usually in a very dilapidated state. The
merchants themselves present an interesting spectacle, each wearing the
proper costume of his respective country, which, with the motley garb of
the crowd incessantly passing to and fro, amuses the stranger's eye with
a curious and almost infinite variety of dress and appearance. For the
convenience of those who arrive periodically at Stamboul from the most
distant portions of the empire, in caravans, there are large khans
provided; which, being built entirely of stone, are fire-proof, and
afford ample accommodation for the merchants with their attendants and
property. [Sidenote: TURKS.--ARMENIANS.--GREEKS.] Yonder sits the Turk,
grave and taciturn: his goods are spread before him on his counter, and
samples hang around in neat array; but satisfied with this, and trusting
to their intrinsic value to recommend them, he smokes with a haughty
air, and disdains to utter a single word to arrest the stranger's
passing steps. Should you question him about the price, and attempt to
cheapen his merchandise, the answer will be comprised in two words; and
if the abatement be again proposed, he replies with an economical "No,"
and a whiff of smoke, after which he again relapses into his former
apathy.
That bearded elder, seated on a low stool with the dark clouds of
thought and mental calculation visible on his countenance, is an
Armenian. Though he will submit to a diminution of his price, he is
honest; and though a man of few words also, yet is he civil without
affectation, and persuasive from the apparent sincerity of his
professions.
[Sidenote: JEW INTERPRETERS.] Their neighbour, however, makes ample
amends for the taciturnity of both. He is a Greek, and you may hear him
at the other extremity of the bazar. The most laboured efforts of the
rhetorician bear no comparison with the honied, artful speeches, and the
gay and cheerful air by which he detains, wheedles, and finally
succeeds in obliging the passer by to purchase, or at least examine the
contents of his stall. Observe yon poor devil, dragged first this way,
then thrust back again, trying in vain to still the tempest which rages
around him, by speaking half a dozen languages in a breath. He is an
interpreter, or go-between in a purchase, and seems torn to pieces in
the whirlwind of voices which assail him from the disputing parties, in
each of whose languages he tries to explain; but, poor patient Jew! you
never could speak any of them intelligibly, and your nasal twang, and
drawling accent, so disguises what you do say, that nothing but a
miracle could make you understood. The screams, the grimaces, the
gestures which these people exhibit, during their unavailing efforts to
render themselves understood, appear inexpressibly ludicrous to the
indifferent spectator, and their perseverance is still more
extraordinary, since it rarely happens that their best endeavours are
repaid by any thing better than reproaches, kicks, and imprecations.
[Sidenote: TURKISH CIVILITY.] Our old friend Mustapha reposes so much
confidence in the honour of an Englishman, that this morning he offered
to lend me any sum I wished, with no other security than my simple
word. In order to convince me of his ability to make good this promise,
after removing a stone from the floor, he unlocked an iron trap-door,
and showed me a mine of gold pieces concealed below. He was delighted
with a rough sketch I made of him; indeed, many circumstances go to
prove that the fanatical aversion of the Turks to portraits and pictures
is much on the decline, notwithstanding all representations of the human
figure are strictly prohibited by the Mahomedan law. The Sultan has had
his likeness taken twice already, and he is going to sit a third time to
an English artist of the name of Atkins.
_Tuesday, 28th._--A ship arrived from Malta to-day, bringing
intelligence that the formidable English fleet destined to join the
French squadron might soon be expected in the Dardanelles. All Pera is
in raptures at this news, and there is now some hope that the Russian
Bear will be forced to draw in his claws.
[Sidenote: DECREASE OF FANATICISM.] I walked about Stamboul to-day, and
experienced much civility from the Turks, who took infinite trouble to
answer all my enquiries. When I made them understand by signs that I
wished to cross the Horn, many left their little stools and walked some
distance to put me in the right course. How changed is their conduct in
this respect from what it was at no very remote period, when a
Christian hardly dared be seen in the streets, and when the Turk, for
mere sport, thought nothing of drawing a pistol and shooting at any
Frank whom he happened to observe looking out of his window; and not
only the foreign merchant, but even the consul, was obliged to have a
guard of janissaries to attend him from his house to his office. At that
time, too, the wealthy Christian, in passing through the streets of
Stamboul, was often stopped and compelled to sweep the muddy crossing;
and even the dogs were allowed to worry him, without his daring to beat
them off. Happily those days of fanatical intolerance are for ever
passed; and the irresistible march of civilisation, by gradually
weakening his prejudices, has humanised even the intolerant and
ferocious Mussulman.[12]
[Sidenote: CASHMERE SHAWLS.] _Thursday, 30th._--To-day a man brought for
sale a quantity of Persian silk, which was very soft and beautiful, and
the colours were bright and well arranged; he had also some black
Cashmere shawls with variegated borders: though the patterns looked
handsome, they were of inferior qualities, and not to be compared with
the French and Scotch imitations. Not being inclined to purchase any, I
posted off to the khan, where the Angora shalee is sold, and saw some
beautiful specimens of this soft and warm manufacture, whose fine silky
texture renders it a great object of commerce for ladies' dresses: the
price is about 300 piastres for eight pics, which is the requisite
quantity.
[Sidenote: TURKISH BATH.] I returned to Pera to take the hummum or bath,
the one there being very clean, quiet, and well managed. A narrow
platform, raised about three feet from the ground, and covered with
cushions, runs round the whole of the first chamber, which is lighted
from above by a glazed cupola; and a fountain of clear water playing
continually in the centre, spreads a delicious coolness throughout. As
soon as we had mounted the stage, one of the bath-men offered carpets
and cushions, but my companion refused them, for the plague is often
communicated by using these _pro bono publico_ comforts; and a Perote
lives in constant dread of this terrible malady. After undressing, we
hung our clothes on pegs, and covered ourselves with a linen towel,
devoted to that laudable purpose, and which, if neglected in the
slightest degree, calls forth the most energetic remonstrances from the
old Turk, who sits smoking near the fountain.
The wooden pattens or slippers used by the bathers were arranged on the
steps by which we mounted the stage, and I had several narrow escapes
from being prostrated on the marble pavement ere I reached the small
door leading into the hummum; so difficult do the uninitiated find the
use of these wooden bridges, which are clumsy, heavy, and slippery as
skates. I shuffled along very awkwardly, much to the amusement of three
sedate old gentlemen, who were puffing and melting from the effects of a
long sojourn in the heated atmosphere of the inner chamber. The first
hot room was rather pleasant; and after remaining there a few moments,
to break ourselves in for the furious attack on the pores to be expected
in the next, we entered the second chamber, and again pushed on into the
third, where the sensation, though at first unpleasant, gradually became
delightful. Coffee and pipes were now brought in; and sitting down on a
low marble bench, we consigned ourselves to the influence of the melting
atmosphere, thinking of the unhappy condition of the mutton-chop, when
it exclaimed in a piteous voice to the gridiron, "I am all of a
perspiration." There were several other bathers undergoing this process
of fermentation; and when the coffee was finished, and the pipe laid
aside, two fellows placed me gently on my back, and commenced rubbing,
squeezing, and twisting my arms, ribs, and legs till I thought every
joint would be dislocated. I soon felt satisfied with this sort of
discipline, though, upon the whole, the sensations were rather
disagreeable than painful. The room where we underwent the operation is
an octagon, with an arched roof, into which light is admitted through a
number of bulls' eyes, or knots of glass; and a marble basin is fixed
against the wall on each of its eight sides, into which two pipes, with
stop-cocks, admit both hot and cold water. With this you deluge yourself
by means of a large metal ladle chained to the wall; or it is done by
the bath-man, should you prefer the assistance of another. Within this
chamber was a smaller one, containing similar basins, and to one of
these I moved, followed by one of the men, who, after lathering me from
head to foot with a sort of slimy caustic soap, scrubbed me down with a
brush made of aloe shreds. Having overwhelmed me once more with cold and
hot water, and given a finishing pull or two at my limbs, he left me to
duck myself, if I thought fit; but I had had quite enough, and hurried
back into the second chamber. Here I was enveloped in hot towels, one
being wound round my head, another round each leg, &c., and in this way
I returned to the first court, where I mounted the stage, and sat down
to dry, smoking a good half hour before I resumed my clothes. Instead of
being exhausted, as might have been expected, I felt highly refreshed,
and grew delightfully cool in a short time, though I fancied I had lost
some pounds of flesh.
As regards the natives of the East, bathing can scarcely be styled a
luxury; to them, it is really indispensable; for as they do not change
their clothes even at night for months together, in fact, not until worn
out, they would be otherwise insufferable beasts; but by frequenting the
bath every day, or every other day, and performing the ablutions imposed
on them in the Koran, with their quiet sedate mode of life, they are
actually rendered very cleanly animals. The women have the use of the
baths in the afternoon, when they assemble in crowds, and all the
scandal and news of the town is circulated, marriages concluded, and the
secret intrigues of the parties are reciprocally detailed; in short,
every thing which may be supposed to be brought on the tapis in an
exclusive meeting of the fair sex. Nature is every where the same; and I
presume, whether in a bath at Stamboul, a Parisian saloon, or a
drawing-room in London, a similar love of gossip is their distinguishing
characteristic. Almost every quarter of Stamboul is furnished with its
baths or hummums; and the houses of all rich Turks possess this
desirable luxury, which is used by the male part of the family in the
morning, and by the females afterwards. The plan on which they are
constructed is the same throughout the East: in them shaving is
universally performed; the hair is dyed, the beard is made to assume a
beautiful glossy black; and the depilatory pincers and ointments of the
ladies are applied to the purposes for which they are designed. The bath
I used was opposite the sherbet vender, on the hill of Pera, who is so
well described in "The Armenians" of Macfarlane; and whose little
fountain of water, flowing through machinery, and setting wheels,
circles, and bells all in motion together, is no slight decoy to the
thirsty passenger. I have read "The Armenians" with great pleasure. The
description of the _locale_, as well as of the manners, customs, and
general appearance of the native and foreign inhabitants of
Constantinople, is given with admirable fidelity; in short, no modern
work with which I am acquainted presents a more lively and faithful
picture of this queen of cities.
[Sidenote: EASTERN STORY-TELLER.] _Friday, 31st._--Instead of making an
excursion to the Sweet Waters, I went with my friend the American
secretary to visit the coffee-houses in the Armenian quarter, where an
improvisatore exhibits his talents every holyday. Immense crowds of
respectable Turks assemble there to listen to the narrations of this
accomplished story-teller; and it is even said that the Grand Signior
himself is often present as an auditor in disguise. In all the
coffee-houses there were concerts of vocal and instrumental music; the
former consisting of songs or chants performed by a number of voices
together, or else one man sang a single verse, to which all the others
responded by way of chorus. Occasionally they varied their performances
by singing alternate verses of the same song. We sat in the open air, on
a long pier of wood built out into the sea, where there were hundreds
besides, perched upon low stools, smoking, or eating delicious ices and
mahalabe, and laughing and talking with more vivacity than I could have
expected in beings generally so taciturn, and so absorbed in the
contemplation of their own importance. At last, a man came to the door
of the largest coffee-room and clapped his hands, when the Turks
immediately moved into this apartment, in which seats were arranged in a
semicircular form one above the other, as in a theatre. A portion of the
floor, in front of the benches, was occupied by low stools, probably
reserved for visitors of distinction; and close to the wall was a
rostrum and a large easy arm-chair, on one side of which stood a little
desk.