visited the Valley of Sweet Waters; an appellation conferred on it by
the Franks, instead of its proper name, Keathane, or "paper
manufactory." Greeks, Armenians, and Turks make parties on Sundays and
holidays to this retired and beautiful promenade, where they dine and
pic-nic. In proceeding thither, our caique passed the Arsenal, and we
saw one line-of-battle ship afloat, and nearly ready to join the fleet,
another on the stocks, and two frigates in a forward state. The American
builder, at present at the head of the dockyard, has built a range of
very neat workshops and stores; and great activity characterises the
whole department. In passing up, I saw the remains of the old palace of
Theodorus, on one side of which is the Jewish cemetery, extending an
immense distance, but without a single tree; and the grey head-stones,
thickly strewed over the inclosure, look as if they had fallen from
heaven in a shower. A prettily situated village, with its Turkish
burying-ground, is on the opposite side; there cypresses cast their
mournful shade upon the tombs of the departed Mahomedans, and numerous
parties had landed there from their caiques, and were regaling
themselves under the large trees, where any happened to border the
river. On arriving, we found the landing-place thronged with boats, and
the walks crowded by visitors. Sultan Selim erected a palace here, which
he intended should resemble that of Versailles. His ambassador, on
returning from Paris, had brought back some views of that splendid abode
of the [Sidenote: PALACE.--TURKISH HORSES.] French monarchs; and Selim,
struck by its magnificence, determined to build a kiosk in imitation of
it. Accordingly he changed the river into a straight canal; formed
avenues, which were planted with long lines of trees; contrived
waterfalls, and laid out a beautiful park. The trees have grown up to a
magnificent size, and cast a pleasant shade over the walks and water;
but the deserted palace is fast falling to decay, and the park is
frequented only in the spring. Here the Sultan's horses are sent to
graze; and their visit is celebrated with great pomp on St. George's day
(Old Style), when they come in procession, and to each of them is
allotted a place in the park, in which they are picketed after the
fashion usual in the East. The tents pitched near them are occupied by
Bulgarians, whose duty it is to watch the animals night and day; and,
perhaps, a more magnificent collection of fine horses was never seen
feeding together, or in an equally beautiful spot. [Sidenote: AUDIENCE
OF THE SULTAN.] Here were assembled parties of all nations. Crowds of
Turkish women, closely veiled, sat under the trees, listening to the
performances of itinerant musicians and dancers, whose instruments were
fiddles, dulcimers, and tambourines. The singing consists solely in
dwelling a considerable time on a single note, with the mouth wide open,
the head thrown back, and the eyes half shut; then, suddenly changing
to another tone, about half a dozen words are strung together, and a
sort of dialogue, in recitative, is kept up by the performers. In one
direction, a conjurer is seen exhibiting his feats of manual dexterity,
surrounded by a motley gaping crowd;--in another, a story-teller
exercises the risible faculties of the sedate Turk, as well as of the
merry laughter-loving Greek. A string of Armenian women approach,
walking two and two with slow solemn steps, and followed by a slave
carrying a basket of refreshments. Behind these come a party of gaily
dressed Greeks of Pera, laughing and joking, the very personification of
merriment; while their more stately country-woman of the Fanal, moves
majestically along in another direction, with the pride of a thousand
years of ancestry, conspicuous in her air and carriage, and all the
consciousness of perfect classic beauty, in her form and face.
[Sidenote: THE ERRABA.] Nor does she omit to display her delicate foot
with its stocking of snowy white, and neat morocco shoe. Under the
shelter of yonder magnificent plane trees, stands an erraba or Turkish
carriage, in which the Sultan's sister and a large party of female
slaves are seated, eating mahalabe and drinking sherbet, while they
enjoy the busy scene before them. The erraba has no springs, and is
richly ornamented with a profusion of gilding, and covered with
beautiful shawls, crimson silk, or white muslin fringed with silk or
gold, according to the taste and fancy of the owner. The interior is
furnished with cushions, and the entrance is from behind, by a small
ladder: it is drawn by two oxen, guided by a man on foot; and when out
on distant excursions, is generally followed by a boy, carrying
provisions. The heads of the oxen alone are furnished with harness, to
which a string of large bright blue glass beads is added, to protect the
animals from the fascination of the evil eye. From either yoke, a long
curved stick, painted alternately with blue and red, and decorated with
woollen tassels of the same colour, extends backwards over the oxen, as
far as the front of the carriage.
[Sidenote: BEAUTIFUL WOMEN.] The Turkish women, when none of their
countrymen are present, are fond of conversing with a Frank,
particularly if he appears to be a stranger newly arrived, and not a
resident at Pera. They will offer confectionary, mahalabe, and remove
their yashmaks, as several did to-day; but not one of the fair wearers
could vie in personal beauty with some of the Greeks who surrounded
them. Still, however, they were pretty, with fine dark eyes, but the
total absence of the rosy hue of health is unpleasing; and the custom
of staining the lips and blackening the eyelashes, communicates a
ghastly paleness to their features. Yet their skin is excessively
delicate; and many of the small white hands I saw to-day, would create
an envious feeling in more than one lady patroness of Almacks. I
particularly noticed one lady, apparently the wife of some Turk of
distinction, who was seated upon a splendid Persian carpet spread upon
the grass, and surrounded by fourteen young female slaves, whose
beautiful eyes were alone visible, the rest of their faces being closely
covered up. They appeared very fond of music, for they had two bands
singing and playing different airs at the same moment, both parties
contending which could scream the loudest. On returning towards the
landing-place, we met numbers of Greek ladies and gentlemen with guitars
and clarionets coming up to pass the evening in singing and dancing upon
the green turf.
As our caique again glided swiftly down the stream, we passed many
similar vessels, containing seven or eight Turkish women each, and up
went the yashmak at our approach. Boat loads of Perotes, with gay
turbans and toques, were also seen hastening to the festive scene; and,
on arriving at our homes, we found the churchyard empty, and all Pera
silent and tranquil, as if deserted by its inhabitants.
[Sidenote: DANCING DERVISHES.] _Tuesday, 14th._--Visited the mosque at
Pera, to witness the ceremonies of the dancing dervishes. This edifice
is built in the form of an octagon, having a gallery extending round the
interior on six of the sides, under which the public sit. In one of
these galleries hung the cloaks of the dervishes; and in another was
posted the music, consisting of a drum, Turkish flutes, and a dulcimer.
Outside the building on the left of the entrance, but only separated by
a trellis-work, is the women's receptacle. This was crowded, as was also
the part assigned to such as took no share in the ceremonies. The centre
of the mosque is railed off; and the chief priest, who wore a green
dress, with a white hat, partly covered by a green shawl, was seated
opposite the grand entrance on a red cushion, placed upon a carpet
spread upon the floor, which is of chestnut wood, polished to brightness
by the constant friction of the dervishes' feet. From the centre of the
roof, was suspended an octagonal bar of brass, to which lamps of
different sizes were attached, and from the galleries, which are
supported by pillars, hung several square pieces of cloth or
pasteboard, painted black, and inscribed with passages from the Koran.
I left my shoes at the entrance; and on gaining the interior of the
edifice, found the service had commenced. As each dervish entered, he
saluted the chief priest; besides whom, there were five other priests,
seated in various situations close to the railing. One, on the right of
the entrance, held a book, from which he chanted certain verses in a
monotonous voice; while the others sat silent and motionless, with their
eyes fixed on the ground. When he stopped, a slow and solemn air was
played upon the flutes, accompanied by the drum, which had an effect by
no means unpleasing; but in a few moments the other instruments
commenced a species of tune between a waltz and march, and all the
dervishes jumping up, the whole assembly followed each other slowly
round the enclosed space, led by the high priest. On arriving opposite
the seat of their leader, they bowed thrice to the ground, with their
arms crossed upon the breast, and on passing close to it, they stepped
by, with a stride and a whirl, and then resumed their march. After the
third performance of these absurdities, the high priest sat down, and
the music, which had hitherto continued playing the march, presently
struck into an air resembling a sauteuse, accompanied by the chanting
of several voices. The dervishes, having thrown off their cloaks, again
folded their arms across their breasts, and bowing three times,
re-commenced walking before the high priest, bending low as they passed
his seat, and kissing his hands, which were joined together. The
whirling at length began in reality: at first with folded arms, then
with one arm extended, the other slightly bent, and held so as to form
an obtuse angle at the elbow. Thus, with closed eyes and erect body,
these singular people whirled round and round on one leg, making a
_pirouette_ with the other, and proceeding by degrees round every part
of the enclosure, accelerating or retarding their movements as the music
and the chant became more or less animated. By looking at a stop watch,
I ascertained that on an average they turned sixty-four times in a
minute. After spinning round for about five minutes, at a signal from
the high priest, both music and dancers suddenly stopped, but
re-commenced in a few seconds, bowing as before. The third time, they
kept it up for nine minutes and three quarters; my brain was swimming
too, so much so, that I could hardly count their evolutions; and it is
extraordinary their heads should escape being affected in the same
manner. I noticed one little fellow who went round at an amazing pace.
The fourth and last time they whirled for five minutes and three
quarters, thus making in all
5 + 3 + 9-3/4 + 5-3/4 = 23-1/2 x 64 = 1504 turns.
Having been highly amused with this extraordinary exhibition, I was most
anxious to ascertain when and where their brethren, the howling
dervishes, performed their antics; I found, however, that they had been
banished Stamboul and Pera, and now went through their orgies at
Scutari, but in secret, and very seldom.
[Sidenote: GREEK BOOKSELLER.] Thence I went to the shop of a Greek
bookseller in Galata, who has English and Italian as well as French and
modern Greek books for sale, all which pay an _ad valorem_ duty of three
per cent. I did not find any worth buying, except a description of the
manners, customs, and new regulations of Constantinople, up to 1832;
written by an Italian attached to the Sardinian mission, and published
in Genoa. The only Greek books were some wretched translations of French
tales, and of one or two German plays.
_Wednesday, 15th._--This morning we took Mustapha, once the consul's
janissary, and now his servant, as a guide to the curiosities on the
other side of the water. He is by birth a Swiss, who, after having
experienced various vicissitudes and adventures, was taken by pirates,
sold as a slave, turned Mussulman, and is now happy and contented in the
service of so good a master. Few English visitors who have remained any
time in Constantinople during the last fifteen years, have quitted it
without making the acquaintance of our friend Mustapha.
[Sidenote: MOSQUE OF SOLIMANIE.] The first object to which he conducted
us was the mosque of Solimanie, the largest and most elegant in
Stamboul; though it does not possess the same interest or renown as St.
Sophia, nor the beauty and lightness of that of Sultan Achmet. The outer
court is surrounded by fine old plane trees, and we looked into the
inner one, which is surrounded on three sides by cloisters, and several
antique pillars, with a fine ornamented fountain in the centre. On
entering by the principal door, we took off our shoes, which was no
hardship, the whole floor being covered with soft carpeting. The dome is
supported by four enormous pillars of grey granite, polished by age. I
was desirous to have measured them, but the priest or servitor, who
accompanied us, refused permission. From the ceiling of the aisles, and
around the dome, hung innumerable lamps of different sizes; an
octangular frame of iron, suspended under the dome, also supported
[Sidenote: SERASKIER'S TOWER.] an immense quantity about ten feet from
the floor. The aisles were filled with many little recesses, in which
were placed books on stands; and one of them was occupied by a Turkish
priest, who chanted some verses from one of these open volumes. Neither
ornaments nor pictures decorate the interior, all being plain and
simple, except that portion nearest Mecca, where an enormous wax candle
is placed on each side of a little niche in the wall. There is something
extremely impressive in the unadorned simplicity, vast extent, and
sombre aspect of this mosque, which is the only religious edifice in
Constantinople, that can be seen by a Christian without a firman; a
donation to the priest of thirty-five piastres being sufficient to admit
a large party. We now proceeded to the Seraskier's tower, situated in a
large court by the side of the palace of the Seraskier Pasha. In the
upper chamber a party of men are constantly stationed to watch for
fires, and, I believe also, to give notice of any unusual assembling of
the people. On the appearance of a fire, they sound the alarm by beating
gongs, and by despatching messengers to various parts of the city. From
the windows of this apartment, is a most perfect bird's eye view of the
whole capital and its vicinity. In the whole course of my travels, I
can recall but one prospect, whose exquisite loveliness affords a
similar combination of all the ingredients necessary to a perfect
landscape, and which I, in some degree, prefer, as presenting even a
still greater variety of beautiful objects,--I mean the view of Naples
from the hermitage on Vesuvius.
[Illustration: Etched by G. C. from a Sketch by the Author
The Burnt Pillar.
Published by Longman & Co. April, 1835.]
[Sidenote: BURNT PILLAR.] A short walk brought us to the Tchernberle
Tasch, or burnt pillar, built of red porphyry, which has been cracked
and splintered by the numerous fires that have taken place around it;
and, to prevent its falling to pieces, it has been enclosed within a
sort of iron cage. It is ninety feet in height, and thirty in
circumference at the base. Of the inscription, only a few letters can at
present be made out. It originally ran thus:--
[Greek: To theion ergon enthade phtharen chrono
kainei manouel eusebes autokrator.]
Passing onwards, we came to a dark dismal place, called the Cistern of
the Thousand and One Pillars, a large reservoir for water, but now dry
and occupied by the winders of silk thread. Its extent is very great,
and the number of pillars far exceeds that above-mentioned. There is
also another cistern, but as the entrance is through a Turk's dwelling,
it cannot be visited except as a special favour, not always granted.
[Sidenote: HIPPODROME.] From this, we were led to the Atmeidan, or
place of horses, the ancient hippodrome; a large oblong area, on one
side of which is the beautiful mosque of Sultan Achmet, separated from
the open square by a handsome screen of masonry; over which a number of
plane trees hang their luxuriant foliage, and through its windows we
were gratified with a view of the court of the mosque. The Atmeidan is
famous as being the scene of countless insurrections and tumults; it was
the rendezvous of the turbulent janissaries; here they made their last
noble stand, and were hewn to pieces and swept down by the Sultan's
cannon and cavalry. Here too were held games and reviews, and here
stands the obelisk of Theodosius, the brazen serpents from Delphi, and
the lofty monument of Constantine, built of rough masonry, and supposed
to have been once covered with brass. It is ninety feet in height. The
obelisk was brought from Egypt and placed there by Theodosius, as
appears from the following inscription on the pedestal, which is now
covered up with earth, and the Turks will not allow of its being cleared
away.
Difficilis quondam Dominis parere serenis
Jussus, et extinctis palmam portare tyrannis:
Omnia Theodosio cedunt sobolique perenni;
Terenis sic victus ego, duobusque diebus,
Judice sub Proclo, superas elatus ad auras.
It measures sixty feet in height, and each of its faces is covered with
hieroglyphics. On the pedestal is a badly executed _alto relievo_,
intended to represent the victories of Theodosius. Between these two
monuments is the celebrated tripod from the island of Delphos; the heads
of the serpents of which it is composed are lost: one of them was cut
off by Sultan Mechmed with a single blow of his sword. From the number
of people that gathered about me, I had some difficulty in making a
drawing of these objects; and the soldiers from a neighbouring
guard-house really appeared to consider I was forming a plan to pocket
the columns and run away with them. Had not Mustapha been with me, it is
probable I should have been arrested, as a friend of mine was yesterday,
when he attempted to sketch Constantinople from Tophana. A superior
officer, however, soon ordered him to be released, and gave him two
soldiers as a protection whilst he finished his drawing. [Sidenote: ST.
SOPHIA.] Thence our course lay to St. Sophia, which is a confused heap
of unsightly buildings; the centre having enormous buttresses built
against it, and the dome is much too low in proportion to the great size
of this edifice. The principal entrance to the seraglio is also situated
in the square, of which St. Sophia occupies one side, the walls of the
palace another, and a row of small houses and coffee shops a third. In
the centre is a very beautiful fountain; which, though inferior in size
to that of Tophana, is much more richly ornamented.
[Sidenote: SERAGLIO.] The guard having allowed us to pass the gate, we
entered the first court of the seraglio--a large oblong enclosure,
formed by the Sultan's gardens, the inner gate, the grounds of the
serai, barracks, stables, and a portion of the outer wall. Within a
niche on the left-hand side of this entrance, the heads of rebellious
Pashas and other traitors are exhibited to the gazing multitude, and
among the more recent of those placed there, may be mentioned that of
Ali Pasha. The second gate, which is flanked by double towers, resembles
that of an ancient Gothic abbey; the interior is highly ornamented with
gilding and inscriptions in letters of gold; and a large gilt cipher of
the Sultan decorates the front. Our attempt to pass into the second
court was less successful: Mustapha being a great coward, he was afraid
to offer the sentinels a bribe; yet I have no doubt that the sight of a
gold dollar never fails to gain admission for the unbeliever, whether
Jew or Christian. Turning away from this forbidden paradise, we
proceeded to examine a fine old plane tree, in the trunk of which three
people live and keep a coffee-shop. A grove of plane, oak, chestnut, and
cypress trees, conducted us out by the lower gate, and we walked to the
sultanas' mosque, where the bodies of the late Sultan, and of the wives
of his two predecessors, lie in state. The present Grand Signior's
favourite sultana, and her son, also repose upon the same bier.
[Sidenote: TURKISH FUNEREAL POMP.] On looking through the window, we
distinguished the Sultan's coffin, deposited on a kind of throne, with
four large wax tapers burning around it, and covered with the most
splendid Cashmere shawls. All the other coffins were decorated in a
similar manner: those of the women being distinguished by having no
turban at the head; and the Fez, or Greek cap, with a feather and
diamond _aigrette_, lay on that of the Sultan's son. The court of the
Sultana Valide's mosque conducted us to the water-side; and, embarking
at the steps of the Balouk bazar, we glided swiftly across to Galata,
highly delighted with the novelty of the objects witnessed during our
day's excursion.
[Sidenote: COSTUME.] _Thursday, 16th._--The clothes' bazar attracted our
curiosity to-day, where, in a few minutes, a person may be rigged out,
either _a la Turque_, or as an Armenian, the whole dress costing about
270 piastres. A cloth cloak, a silk gown, a silk jacket, camlet
trowsers, yellow or red morocco boots, a shawl for the waist, with a
waistcoat, shirt, and a calpac or turban, form the dress of a gentleman
or merchant. The Jews wear a low black hat, round which is twisted a
white handkerchief, inscribed with some Hebrew sentences from their law.
The calpac of the Greek differs from that of the Armenian, by having a
hole at the top, out of which peeps a bit of red cloth. The Turks wear
yellow, Greeks and Armenians red, and Jews black, boots. The day was
finished at Mustapha's, the scent dealer; or, to describe him by his
real appellation, "Kortz Sultanee Amel Mehemet Said," as his card duly
setteth forth. There we generally took a luncheon of beed caimac, a
species of curd; or of mahalabe, a mixture of rice boiled to a jelly,
and eaten with ice and cream; at other times we discussed a large dish
of cabobs and a few glasses of lemonade. Occasionally our party
adjourned to the coffee-house built in his garden, where, under the
shelter of a delicious rose and jasmine bower, we spent the interval
between dinner in all the luxury of idleness, smoking and drinking
sherbet.
[Sidenote: ANECDOTE.] _Friday, 17th._--I visited a printing-office in
Galata, and saw the types of a work on the Greek church, some specimens
of music, and a few Turkish books. The types were cast in Paris, and
brought here at a great expense. The proprietors are now preparing a
Hebrew work for the press, which will take them two years to execute.
Went again in the afternoon to the Valley of Sweet Waters, where a
greater crowd had assembled than even on the former occasion. I walked
to the village, where there is a coffee-shop in a very agreeable
situation, overshadowed by plane trees, one of which is nearly as large
as that of the seraglio, and also quite hollow. In one part of the
canal, near the palace, where the water is very deep, the favourite
sultana of Selim drowned herself. She was young and exceedingly
beautiful, but grew so jealous of the attentions paid by her lord and
master to a Greek slave whom he had recently purchased, that she
determined on committing suicide. Accordingly, having succeeded in
eluding the vigilance of the guards and eunuchs, she one night escaped
from the palace; and having procured a large stone, she carried it to
the edge of the canal, and there fastened it to her person by means of
the Cashmere shawl which she wore round her waist. On her absence being
discovered next morning, the utmost consternation prevailed throughout
the harem; and her slaves and attendants trembled at the fate which
awaited them when the Sultan was informed of his favourite's escape. The
harem, the palace, the gardens, the whole neighbourhood, were instantly
searched, but in vain; no one had seen the sultana, and her absence
remained a mystery. The eunuchs were threatened with death, if she were
not found; and the horror of all was aroused by the suggestion that she
might possibly have eloped with some giaour[10], and several of the
slaves were sent to atone for their neglect with the forfeit of their
lives. In the mean time, the poor Sultan remained inconsolable: all his
former love returned, and the Greek slave was sent as a present to one
of the Pashas. At the expiration of a few days, as the disconsolate
Selim was seated smoking on the borders of the canal, the body became
detached from the stone, and rose to the surface of the water.
Overwhelmed by the heart-rending spectacle, which too well explained the
mystery of his beautiful queen's disappearance, he was with difficulty
prevented by his attendant slaves from throwing himself upon the corpse.
When he retired, it was taken out, and sent into Constantinople to be
buried. Thus ends this little episode in the life of the mighty Selim.