and vegetable market, which, from its vicinity to the arsenal, and from
its being the landing-place for all pleasure boats coming from Scutari
and the neighbouring villages of the Bosphorus, is constantly occupied
by a crowd of idlers.
In the street leading up to Pera, the throng, which was also
considerable, presented an infinite variety of novel and picturesque
costume. The pavement is bad, but very clean, and greatly exceeds in
this respect the narrow streets of the generality of Italian or Scotch
towns. There is no cry of "heads below;" and a man may wander about at
night without any fear of other rain than that of heaven, provided he
carries a light with him.
[Sidenote: PERA.--DESTRUCTIVE FIRE.] Pera is recovering but slowly from
the destructive fire, which two years ago ravaged this quarter of
Constantinople; for, owing to the unsettled condition of public affairs,
and the uncertainty as to who may be the future masters of this capital,
the rich are unwilling to embark their property in building speculations
on any very extensive scale. However, three handsome streets have been
finished, the houses of which appear better and more commodiously built
than they were formerly. Having secured apartments in a very comfortable
lodging-house, kept by one Guiseppino Vitali, we paid a visit to Mr.
Cartwright, the consul-general, perhaps one of the most excellent and
kind-hearted individuals ever invested with the consular authority.
Since the fire, he has built a very comfortable house, where he
exercises a generous and unbounded hospitality.
[Sidenote: HOSPITALITY OF THE BRITISH CONSUL.] From Messrs. Black and
Hardy, our bankers in Galata, we also experienced the most friendly
attentions. We thence proceeded to Mr. Stampa's, that emporium of all
good condiments, where Adrianople tongues, Yorkshire bacon, Scotch
whisky, French cogniac, Scotch ale, London porter, English cheese, and
Havannah segars may be obtained for "a consideration." In fact, no shop
can be supplied with a greater variety of articles, nor in any city upon
the surface of the globe are luxuries, whether foreign or domestic, to
be obtained more plentifully than in Stamboul. Returning to Guiseppino,
we dined at the Europa, a good inn--at least, we had a good dinner; and
as evening advanced, proceeded to Tophana, and after a two hours' pull
up the Bosphorus, we arrived at the ship. The current runs so strong,
that the boats are obliged to keep in close to the shore, and at three
points are towed by old men and boys, who are stationed there for the
purpose, and receive a few paras for their labour.
_Friday, 3d._--To-day it poured with rain without cessation, and in
consequence, the ambassador could not go on shore. In the evening I
went to the palace for a few minutes, but it felt so cold and
comfortless that I had no wish to remain. This is by no means a fit
residence for our ambassador. I returned to the ship loaded with
newspapers, the appearance of which on the gun-room table was hailed
with satisfaction, nearly a month having elapsed since any one on board
had heard of the state of home and Europe.
[Sidenote: RUSSIAN MILITARY FUNERAL.] _Saturday, 4th._--This morning a
Russian soldier was buried, and we observed the ceremony from the
quarter deck. He was borne in an open wooden coffin; a priest in black,
and with a long beard, headed the procession, and a company of soldiers
brought up the rear. On arriving at the grave, the priest put on an
additional garment, having a yellow cross upon it, and then read the
service, sprinkling the body at intervals with holy water (as we
supposed), for the distance was too considerable to enable us to see
distinctly. After each person present had repeated this portion of the
ceremony as he walked round the corpse, the priest resumed his duties,
scattering more water upon the body, and the lid being put on the
coffin, a blessing was pronounced while it was lowered into the grave,
and with the casting in of the earth, the ceremony ended. The soldiers
then filed up the hill; while the priest, disencumbering himself of his
robes, proceeded to saunter about the shore.
[Sidenote: LANDING OF THE AMBASSADOR.] At two o'clock the ambassador
landed in state: the yards were manned, and the salute fired. Soon
after, the rest of the suite followed; and the Actaeon was now left to
quiet and regular duty. The cabins fitted up for the party were cleared
away in the course of an hour; and before the dinner drum beat, the main
deck had been again restored to its just proportions. In the evening, my
companion and self also left the ship, and went down to Pera, to
establish ourselves for the present in the house of Master Tongo; a name
by which I find our landlord is better known than by that of Vitali.
_Sunday, 5th._--On looking out of window into the street this morning, I
beheld crowds of Armenian and Greek women proceeding to church, the
former wearing the gashmak, or veil, and their long dark feridges, or
cloaks, with red morocco slippers just peeping out beneath. They differ
from the Turkish women only in not covering the nose, and having red
instead of yellow slippers, in which they shuffle along slowly to their
worship. Of the Greeks, however, some wore over their hair embroidered
handkerchiefs, arranged _a la Francaise_ in the shape of a toque; others
were muffled in cloaks of a snuff-brown colour, with a white muslin veil
arranged upon the back of the head, and having both ends brought round
upon the breast: thus exposing the whole face, and setting off to the
best advantage the handsome regular features, and the dark eye, with its
long black silky lash.
[Sidenote: VISIT TO THE BAZAARS.] After breakfast, a party was made to
visit the bazaars; and we embarked at the new custom-house stairs, in
Galata, where numbers of caiques lie ready for hire, and where the same
scramble occurs for passengers as at Blackfriars or Tower Stairs in
England. We glided rapidly across, skilfully avoiding the numerous
caiques that were plying in a contrary direction, the boatman calling
out, "On the European side,"--"On the Asiatic side," as it suited his
purpose to pass to the right or left, there appearing to be no
established law for regulating their motions.
On landing at the Balouk[9], or fish bazaar, we passed through the
bazaar of drugs, called also that of Alexandria, an extensive covered
building, where rhubarb, paints, senna, and other commodities of that
sort, are sold in stalls fitted up on both sides of the passage. The
articles are all exposed in the most tempting manner, according to the
fancy of the vendor, who sits cross-legged on the shop-board behind,
waiting anxiously for his customer; and when any one stops but for an
instant, he pops out his head like a spider, to ascertain whether it is
a bite or not. We passed through the pipe-stick bazaar, situated in an
open street: on one side of which, pipe-sticks and amber mouth-pieces
are exposed to sale; the other being almost entirely occupied by
turners, who work with extraordinary neatness, considering the imperfect
nature of their tools. From the bazaar where cotton handkerchiefs and
shawls, English and German, are sold, we passed to the shop of Mustapha,
the scent dealer, where we established ourselves for a luncheon,
consisting of pipes, coffee, and lemonade, while the various bottles of
perfume,--viz. attar of roses and jasmine, musk, musk rat-tails, lemon
essence, sandal wood, pastilles, dyes, all the sweet odours that form
part and parcel of a sultana's toilet, were temptingly exposed to our
view. From time to time, portions of these delicacies were rubbed on our
whiskers, hands, and lips, to induce us to purchase; so that when we
left the shop to return to Pera, we were a walking bouquet of
_millefleurs_, and might have been scented a mile off. After visiting
the dockyard, where a line of battle ship and two frigates were getting
ready for sea, we climbed the hill of Pera, under the shade of the dark
and splendid cypress trees covering the burial ground, and from which
long avenues lead to various parts of the town. [Sidenote: PUBLIC
PROMENADES.] These are the favourite walks of the Perotes; and the gay
dresses of the ladies, who, in joyous parties, ramble along the silent
and gloomy pathways, contrast oddly with the sad and mournful character
of this place of tombs. We again strolled about in this ground after
dinner; but were soon tired, the cold being too severe to be pleasant;
and even the inhabitants retire early. The evenings at Pera are not
agreeable, there being no public amusements into which one can enter;
and society is so garbled with form and etiquette, that it is hardly
worth seeking; smoking, therefore, is the only resource, and most people
adopt it.
[Sidenote: PIPE-STICK BAZAAR.] _Monday, 6th._--This morning we landed at
the Lemon Skalese, where the fruit bazaar stands. Here were shops full
of Smyrna figs, dried dates, plums, and various other fruits; with
cheese, and Russian butter. We went thence through the place where wax
candles are sold, to the pipe-stick bazaar, where I intended to be a
purchaser both of amber and cherry sticks. Of the former there are two
sorts: the white, creamy, or lemon-coloured amber is the most valuable;
and a large mouth-piece of the very purest is sometimes worth 5000 or
6000 piastres, equal to about 50_l._ or 60_l._ sterling. The second or
yellow kind, being more common, is comparatively little esteemed, for
the perfection of this article consists in its being free from flaws,
cracks, or spots; and if the tube of wood can be seen through the amber,
it is considered as very inferior in a Turk's estimation. There is a
third sort, which is valueless from its transparency. It is either real
or factitious, and often consists merely of the scrapings and refuse
morsels, melted into lumps, and manufactured into cheap mouth-pieces.
This portion of the Turkish pipe is frequently adorned with precious
stones, enamelling, or carved wood, according to the fancy of the
purchaser. The cost of those generally exposed for sale varies from 20
to 1500 piastres, and when one of a higher price is required, it is
found in the possession of some wealthy Turkish or Armenian merchant.
The amber is imported from Dantzic in lumps; there is considerable risk
in the purchase of the crude article, and hence arises its excessive
dearness when it turns out well. The cherry sticks come from Persia by
Trebisond; they are brought to Constantinople in pieces of about two
feet long; and after being set straight, are dressed and polished with
infinite care. They are united into sticks generally of five or six
feet, though some are as long as twelve feet, and the junction is so
skilfully concealed with the bark, that in a well-made pipe it is
impossible to discover it. When repolished, they are ready for sale,
being left unbored until the merchant has found a purchaser. From 30 to
100 piastres is the usual price demanded, but it differs according to
the length, size, and fineness of the bark; and dark-coloured sticks are
preferred to those which are lighter. Pipe-sticks are also made of
rose-tree and other woods; but the favourite summer pipe is of jasmine,
which is not so dear as the cherry, and is very light and flexible. I
have seen them of one entire piece, measuring ten feet. These are
cleaned by squeezing lemon juice through them, which is also rubbed over
the outside to render them cool. Another species of pipe is the narghile
or water pipe; our sailors have christened it the hubble-bubble: it is a
species of hookah, consisting of a glass bowl partly filled with water,
a pipe holder fitted into its taper neck, and a long flexible tube, made
of embossed leather and brass wire, through which the smoke is drawn.
The bowls are manufactured of clay in various forms; some being very
plain, others really elegant, with abundance of gilding and ornament.
[Sidenote: TURKISH TOBACCO.] The tobacco smoked in the ordinary pipe, is
brought from the Crimea, Salonica, Latakia, Ormus, and other parts of
the East. The Salonica tobacco is mild and excellent; that from Latakia,
on the contrary, is strong and dark coloured. The price varies between
four and ten piastres the oke, of two pounds and three quarters English;
it is also sold in bales of ten okes each, at the same rate. The tobacco
smoked in the narghile is of a different quality and cut: the best comes
from Shiraz, and it is damped previously to being put into the clay
bowl. The mode of using the narghile is not only difficult to acquire,
but, to a beginner, is painful and sickening; the air being exhaled from
the lungs, and replaced by the smoke and breath. Every Turk, and indeed
every inhabitant of Stamboul, carries about his person a square bag,
either of cachemire ornamented with embroidery, or of common silk, in
which he keeps a supply of tobacco; and as the coffee-house supplies him
with a pipe-stick and pipe gratis, he pays only for the cup of coffee
which accompanies it. He loads his pipe from his own bag, and the boy
of the establishment places a small bit of lighted charcoal on it. They
may be seen by hundreds before every coffee-shop, seated on low stools,
blowing clouds, sipping Mocha juice, and exhibiting the most solemn
taciturnity and perfect content. In driving bargains, the Turk, having
seated the purchaser at his side, presents him with coffee and a pipe,
and between the puffs of smoke the negotiation is carried on. If it does
not succeed, the pipe is resigned, thanks are returned for the coffee,
and the business is at an end; should they agree, another pipe generally
concludes the affair.
[Sidenote: THE SHOE BAZAAR.] We next went through the shoe bazaar, where
are arranged thousands of pairs of slippers and boots, some of yellow,
others of red morocco, and of all sizes. But the most superb exhibition
consists of the embroidered slippers for the use of the women within
doors; these are made of velvet, silk, or cloth, covered with gold and
silk embroidery, pearls, &c. Here also are sold mirrors of different
shapes, with the backs likewise embroidered in various colours and
devices, intended for the fair inhabitants of the harem. [Sidenote:
JEWELLERY.--BROUSSA SILKS.] Though this bazaar, from its novelty, is
generally acknowledged to be the most attractive, it does not offer such
splendid temptations as that devoted to the sale of jewellery, which we
now entered, and which consists of a series of low, narrow arched
passages, opening into each other, and very badly paved. The shops or
stalls, instead of the usual inner apartment, have only high counters,
behind which sits the Armenian jeweller. Before him is placed a square
glass case, in which are huddled together, in precious confusion, silver
filagree coffee-cup holders, chased gold and silver boxes for talismans,
silver heads for narghile, female ornaments, pastile burners, old
snuff-boxes, rings, cornelian ointment boxes, gems, and agate-hilted
dirks. The more valuable articles are probably kept in drawers under the
counter, or in the strong room of some fire-proof khan or warehouse.
Thence I went into the Broussa silk bazaar, a square building divided
into compartments, in which are piled up pieces of the silk of a
thousand different patterns. The produce of the Broussa manufacture is a
mixture of cotton and silk, with which gold and silver thread is
frequently intermingled; the pattern is exceedingly splendid, and it is
used for the gowns and jackets of both men and women. There is also a
stuff made in Constantinople of similar materials, which, though all of
one colour, is exceedingly handsome, and well adapted for dresses. The
bazaars closing at two o'clock, we returned to Pera highly gratified
with the day's excursion.
[Sidenote: RESIDENCE OF THE BRITISH EMBASSY.] _Tuesday, 7th._--Went up
this morning to Terapia to pay a visit at the palace, and learned that
Count Orloff had arrived from Odessa as ambassador extraordinary and
commander-in-chief of the Russian force, with a _carte blanche_ from his
sovereign as to the treaties and measures he might think fit to adopt. I
went over the palace, which is but just large enough to accommodate the
family of our ambassador, and the _attache_ is obliged to live in a
house higher up the hill, but within the walls of the government
property. Returned in the evening to Pera, more than ever captivated
with the beauties of the Bosphorus; though the cold weather still
retards the progress of vegetation, and the leaves are but slowly making
their appearance. Indeed so late a spring, and such inclement weather,
have rarely been experienced at Constantinople before.
[Sidenote: FUNERAL OF A FRANK PHYSICIAN.] _Wednesday, 8th._--The funeral
of the Sultan's French physician passed our lodgings, on its way to the
burying-ground. It was accompanied by about 100 officers and soldiers
without arms; and, this being the first time any Turks had appeared at a
Christian ceremony, a great sensation was excited in Pera. The man
was much esteemed by the Sultan, and was a favourite with all classes,
both Turks and Christians. The following was the order of the funeral.
First came the soldiers, divided into two bodies, one occupying either
side of the street, with the officers in the centre; then followed a
number of Capuchin monks, with priests and servitors of the Greek
church; lastly appeared the body, carried upon a bier, and covered with
a black silk pall, with a yellow cross, its four orange tassels being
held by supporters. A crowd of Franks, Turks, and Armenians, wearing
crape upon their arms, closed the procession. The bearers were
distinguished by large fur caps, decorated with red cloth, resembling
the calpac of the Armenians, and every individual carried in his hand a
long thin wax taper.
_Thursday, 9th._--I again went up to Terapia, where there is a report,
that the pilots of the Sea of Marmora and the Dardanelles have gone on
board the Russian fleet, and that more troops have arrived. The
Russians, however, strongly deny both facts. [Sidenote: AUDIENCE OF THE
SULTAN.] Our ambassador had a private audience of the Sultan this
morning, an express having arrived, somewhat unexpectedly, at the palace
of the British embassy yesterday evening, intimating that the Sultan
would receive Lord Ponsonby at nine o'clock on the following day. It
seems that Count Orloff had peremptorily demanded an audience; but as
our ambassador arrived before him, he was entitled to precedence in this
matter; and Count Orloff's reception was accordingly arranged to take
place one hour afterwards. Lord Ponsonby went with his nephew Captain
Grey, and Mr. Waller, the _attache_. They were received at the palace or
new kiosk at Dolma Batche, on the European side; and as they landed, the
Sultan's band struck up "God save the King." On being ushered into the
presence, they found his Highness seated on his divan, an apartment
splendidly painted and decorated, and after the ambassador had paid and
received the usual compliments, coffee and pipes were introduced. The
Sultan shewed them a portrait, in a wide gilt frame, of himself on
horseback, painted by some Sardinian artist. It was a resemblance, but
indifferently executed. After remaining an hour, they took leave; and
found a Russian steamer, with Count Orloff on board, waiting near the
palace. The Count's audience lasted _two hours_. Many plans were, no
doubt, formed; and every one feels in great anxiety to know the result
of this conference. [Sidenote: NAVAL PUNISHMENTS.] I dined to-day at
the palace. Admiral Roussin, the French ambassador, came in, in the
evening. He is frank and undisguised, as a sailor ought to be; and
entered at once upon the policy intended to be adopted by his
government. He seemed persuaded that Ibrahim would retire behind Mount
Taurus; and expressed himself very doubtful of the good faith of the
Russians.
Slept on board the Actaeon, in the cockpit,--a terribly close berth, and
hot as an oven. Penny, one of the carpenter's crew, who had been ill for
a long time with rheumatic pains, died in the course of the afternoon,
and will be buried to-morrow.
_Friday, 10th._--There being a punishment
this morning, of course I remained in the gun-room.
Two sailors received the cat, and although
the thing is perfectly disgusting, my experience
convinces me it is necessary to the maintenance
of discipline. The captain and first lieutenant
are averse to the practice of flogging; but, if
the first man had been punished for a similar
dereliction of duty, a fortnight since, he very
probably would not have repeated the offence;
and his fate might have served as a warning to
his companion in suffering. In fact, the knowledge
that the captain dislikes to proceed to this
extremity, encourages the unruly to get drunk
and be insolent.
[Sidenote: CRICKET.--TURKISH FLEET]
The Russians exercise their troops daily in
marching, counter-marching, skirmishing, and
firing at a mark. The officers of the Actaeon
have written orders to be admitted into the
camp, and now go on shore every afternoon to
play cricket in the Sultan's Valley, much to the
amusement of both Russian and Turk. The
Russian general recently came on board, and
expressed his surprise that the captain had not
visited the camp, inviting him to do so, and at
the same time leaving these orders for the officers.
Returned to Pera in the evening. The
shore on either side the channel daily acquires
new beauties, as the warm weather advances,
and the trees assume their summer clothing.
As I passed the Turkish fleet at sunset, the
Mahmoudiel fired a gun; and, in an instant,
every topmast was lowered, with as much precision
and celerity as would have been displayed
by an English fleet at Spithead.
[Illustration: Drawn & Etched by George. Cruikshank, from a Sketch by the
Author.
Sweet Waters
Published by Longman & Co. April, 1835.]
[Sidenote: CABOBS.--RAPACITY OF THE SULTAN.] _Saturday, 11th._--Went to
a cabob shop. Cabobs are made of small pieces of mutton, about the size
of a small walnut; which being strung on iron or silver skewers, and
roasted over a fire, with plenty of grease, are served up with a
species of soft cake, toasted, and soaked in gravy, or with milk,
water, parsley, and garlic, brought all together in a large bowl. The
Turks eat it with their fingers; we had forks: they were, however, so
dirty, that we quickly abandoned them for the Oriental method. This is a
capital dish, with the single exception of the garlic. A glass of cold
water, and a pipe at the nearest coffee shop, finished our repast, and
we then went to a rich Greek merchant's strong room, to see some amber
mouth-pieces; and he certainly did shew us a splendid collection, valued
at 200,000 piastres. On returning to his shop, when about to pay him a
large sum on account of my purchases, he requested me not to do so
there, but accompany him to a more convenient situation, lest the Turks
should observe that he was receiving money. Both Armenians and Greeks
most anxiously conceal their wealth, as it might subject them to be
pillaged by the Sultan, either directly, or through the extortions of
his tax gatherers.