at corner of left front, make a treble under 1 chain (chain 3 for 1st
treble), * chain 1, a treble under next 1 chain; repeat from * all
around, putting 2 trebles with 1 chain between in same stitch at
corners, and on the shoulders at the neck to shape the collar.
Make another row in the same way, then work in seed-stitch as you did
the body of the jacket (a double under 1 chain, chain 1) for 8 rows,
widening the same stitches at corners each time.
Fold the garment at the shoulders, bringing fronts and back together.
Commencing in 10th chain from bottom of front and back, work in the
usual way for 25 stitches, a double under each chain. Work from underarm
around the armscye until the sleeve is 12 inches in length, or as long
as desired, then make the 2 rows of spaces, in treble crochet, as before
and finish with 7 rows of seed-stitch, same as body of jacket.
For the picot edge: Two doubles in 2 stitches, chain 3 for a picot;
repeat.
The stitch given is very simple and pretty, but any other fancy stitch
may be used that is liked. Among others may be named Lancaster-stitch,
made as follows: Having a chain of an even number of stitches, turn.
1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each remaining stitch, turn.
2. Chain 3, wool over, draw a loop through 1st stitch, over, draw a loop
through next stitch, over, draw a loop through same stitch, over, draw a
loop through next stitch, over, draw through all the loops on needle, *
chain 4, a double in 1st stitch of the chain just made, which closes or
joins the cluster of loops, over, draw a loop through same stitch with
last loop of preceding cluster, over, draw a loop through next stitch,
over, draw a loop through same stitch, over, draw a loop through next
stitch, over, draw through all the loops on needle, and repeat from *;
turn.
3. A double in 1st space, double around the thread between 4 chain and
cluster; repeat, ending with a double in top of 3 chain with which last
row started. Repeat 2d and 3d rows for the pattern.
The bird's-eye-stitch is simple and pleasing: Having a chain of desired
length, turn.
1. Miss 1, a double in each stitch of chain, turn.
2. A double in double, taking front loop of stitch in last row, a double
in next double, taking back loop; repeat to end, and repeat 2d row.
Still another pretty stitch, easily adjusted to any garment, is as
follows: Chain a number of stitches divisible by 3, turn.
1. Miss 1, a double in each remaining stitch of chain, turn.
2. Chain 1, a double in each double of last row, turn.
3. Chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, * wool over, insert hook in
3d stitch of 1st row, take up wool and draw through, (over, draw through
2 stitches) twice, miss 1, a double in each of next 2 doubles; repeat
from * to end of row, turn.
4. Same as 2d row.
5. Chain 1, a double in each of 1st 2 doubles, * wool over and make a
treble as before, inserting the hook under the treble of 3d row, miss 1,
a double in each of 2 stitches; repeat from * to end, turn. Repeat 4th
and 5th rows.
And another still: Make a chain of length required, turn.
1. Miss 3, a treble in next stitch, * miss 1, 2 trebles in next stitch,
repeat to end of row, turn.
2. Chain 3, 2 trebles between each group of 2 trebles in last row;
repeat. Repeat 2d row.
Tam-o'-Shanter in Double Crochet
[Illustration: Tam-o'-Shanter in Double Crochet]
For the model were used one skein of electric-blue knitting-worsted and
a ball of gray Angora wool, with a hook large enough to carry the yarn
easily.
Make a chain of 3 stitches, join.
1. Seven doubles in ring.
2. Two doubles in each double, taking both veins of stitch.
3. A double in double, 2 in next; repeat.
4. A double in each of 2 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.
5. A double in each of 3 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.
Continue in this way, adding 1 double between widenings each row, until
you have 30 doubles in each section--between widenings--or more, if a
larger crown is desired.
33. A double in each of 7 doubles, miss 1; repeat.
34. A double in each of 6 doubles, miss 1; repeat.
35. A double in each of 2 doubles, miss 1; repeat.
36 to 45. A double in each stitch.
46, 47. With gray Angora wool, make a double in each stitch and fasten
off the last row neatly.
Cover a large, flat button-mold with the blue wool: Make a chain of 3
stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch of chain make 8 doubles; make 2 doubles
in each of 8 doubles, working in both veins of stitch; then make 1
double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, and repeat. Continue to work around and
around, widening to keep the work flat, until you have a circle which
will cover the button-mold, say 6 rounds; then work once around without
widening, slip in the mold, * miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until
the cover is closed.
For the edge of the button and the cord around top of band either the
double chain may be made, an ordinary chain filled with double crochet,
or--better still--the cord may be knotted by what is called the "fool's
delight" method--which seems a very sensible method, indeed: Take a
length of the Angora wool six times as long as the cord is wanted to be;
indeed, it will be better to start with a longer piece, for fear it may
"take up" more rapidly than anticipated. Make a slip or half knot at one
end of the yarn, pass the other end down through this to form a loop,
then tie the ends of the yarn together. Hold this knot between thumb and
forefinger of one hand (say the right), with the yarn which pulls
through the half knot under the same hand, and the loop which was formed
held on the forefinger, holding the yarn which does not pull in the left
hand; pass the forefinger of left hand through the loop on right
forefinger from front to back, catch up and draw through the non-pulling
or left-hand thread--exactly as you would make a chain-stitch in
crochet--transfer the knot which ties the two ends together to thumb and
forefinger of left hand, keeping the loop over forefinger, and draw up
the pulling yarn, or that passed originally through the half knot. Now
the position of the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the same in
the left hand as formerly in the right. Continue by passing forefinger
of right hand through the loop on left forefinger, catching up the
non-pulling thread and drawing it through to form the new loop (on right
forefinger again), transfer the knot from left hand to right, and pull
up, repeating the process from beginning. This is really a sort of
double chain, and when one has learned to make it evenly and well--as
may be done with a little practise--it will be found superior for bags,
lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring or a cord.
Sew this cord evenly around button and top of band, and the cap is
completed.
Ladies' Sleeveless Jacket or Hug-Me-Tight
[Illustration: Ladies' Sleeveless Jacket or Hug-Me-Tight]
Use Germantown worsted, white or any desired color, with a hook large
enough to carry the yarn smoothly. Commence with a chain of 140
stitches, turn.
1. Miss 3, 1 treble in each of 68 stitches following, shell of 3
trebles, 2 chain and 3 trebles in next stitch, to widen for center of
back, a treble in each remaining stitch, turn.
2. Chain 3 for 1st treble, a treble in each treble, including the 3
trebles of shell, up to the 2 chain, make a shell as before under 2
chain, then a treble in each following to the end, turn. Work always in
back vein of stitch to produce the ribbed or striped effect.
3 to 23. Same as 2d row. The jacket is now ready for joining.
Commencing at the point in center of back, count 26 stitches, then fold
over and, starting from the other end of the same row, crochet the two
sides together for 25 stitches, taking a stitch from each side. This
will leave about 65 stitches for armscye.
For the border:
1. Shell of 6 trebles in a stitch, miss 2, a treble in next, miss 2;
repeat. Commence with 3 chain for 1st treble of 1st shell, and join to
that.
2. Shell of 6 trebles between 3d and 4th trebles of shell in previous
row, and treble in treble; repeat.
3. Chain 4, fasten back in 1st stitch for a picot, a double between 2
trebles, repeat, making 5 picots around the shell, a double in single
treble; repeat.
Work around the armscye in same way.
Child's Coat Sweater
[Illustration: Child's Coat Sweater]
Use Germantown wool, cream-white or any color desired, and bone hook
size 4, or a hook large enough to carry the wool easily. The sweater is
crocheted in the length in two parts, and is joined in center of back.
Make a chain of 160 stitches, turn.
1. A double in each stitch of chain, chain 1, turn.
2. A double in each double, working in back vein of stitch to form a
rib.
3. Make star-stitches along the rib, thus: Chain 3, draw a loop through
2d and 3d stitches of chain, counting from hook, and a loop through each
of 2 doubles; take up wool and draw through the 5 stitches on needle,
chain 1 to close the star, draw a loop through eye of star just made
(under the 1 chain), another through the back part of last perpendicular
loop of the same star, and a loop through each of 2 doubles, close the
star by working off all the loops, chain 1, and repeat to end of row,
turn.
Make another rib of doubles by working across twice, then a row of
star-stitches, and continue until you have 4 rows of stars and 5 ribs;
on next row work 39 stars, then a rib, and continue until you have 3
rows of 39 star-stitches each. Work a row of doubles, break and fasten
the wool securely. Bear in mind that the star-stitches must be all
worked on the right side; the 1st row will come so, but the 2d will not
unless the wool is broken off at the end of 2d rib and fastened in at
other end again; then chain 3, and proceed with the row.
Beginning at the neck-end of the front strip, leave the 1st 6 stitches
(equal to 3 stars) and work to end of row in star-stitch; make a rib as
directed. Work 2 more rows of stars, with the ribs alternating, leaving
1 star less at the top or neck-end each time.
Work the other half to correspond, then join in center of the back with
single crochet, putting hook through a loop of each part. If carefully
done the joining will not be discernible. Join under arms, also, leaving
the opening for armholes.
For the border: Work 10 rows of double crochet, a double in each stitch,
around the entire garment, fronts, bottom and neck, widening at each of
the lower corners in each row to form the miter. Or, if preferred, work
around neck and down fronts first, completing the border; then work
around the bottom and across the front border. The widening for miter is
neater. The buttonholes are made in the 5th row of front; chain 5, miss
5, and repeat, making as many openings as desired, at equal distances.
In working back, next row, make also a double in each stitch of 5 chain.
For the sleeve: Chain 80 stitches, with 1 to turn, work a rib of doubles
on the chain, then 40 star-stitches. Repeat until there are 10 rows of
star-stitch and 11 ribs, taking care, as before, that the stars are
worked on the right side always. Join the sleeve-seam on the wrong side
with single crochet, as you did the back.
For the cuff: Work 12 rounds of double crochet, 1 double in each stitch
and turn back. Sew the sleeves into the armholes, and sew on buttons of
a size appropriate to the garment and corresponding with the
buttonholes.
This sweater may be very easily enlarged to any desired size by starting
with a longer chain and making more rows of star-stitch and ribs to keep
the proportion. The combination of stitches is a most attractive one.
Child's Jacket
[Illustration: Child's Jacket]
Materials required are three skeins of cream-white Saxony and one skein
of blue or pink, with a bone hook of suitable size to carry the yarn
smoothly.
Make a chain of 78 stitches.
1. On the chain make 8 stars, widen, (1 star, widen, 9 stars, widen)
twice, 1 star, widen, 8 stars. Break and fasten wool, and fasten in
again at beginning of row so as to have all stars made on the right
side. Or, one can work back with a row of doubles to beginning of 1st
row.
2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. Same as 1st row, except that you widen only every
other row, and always exactly in the center. Keep 8 stars on each front,
thus constantly increasing the upper portion of the sleeve, or gore
between 1st and 2d and 4th and 5th widenings.
9. Make 8 stars, chain 22 for armhole, fasten in 1st star on the back,
continue the stars across the back, chain 22, and make 8 stars across
front again.
10. Same as preceding row, making 11 stars on chain under each arm.
11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Same as 10th row, widening only
in center of back every other row, as at first. This completes the body
of the jacket.
21. Commencing the border, fasten in the colored wool at left front
corner of neck, and make 21 stars down the front. At the corner make 2
stars as if to widen, in order to turn the corner neatly, and continue
all the way around to top of right front, not widening at all in the
back of border, but making 2 stars to turn the corner as at first.
22. Stars all around, of color.
23. Fasten in the white wool at top of left front, chain 3, then make 2
trebles in the eye of each star all around, with 4 trebles in eye of
star at corners, so as to make the work lie smoothly.
24. With color, fasten in at top of left front, chain 3, and make 2
trebles between each 2 trebles of last row, with 4 at corners.
25. Same as 24th row, with white wool.
26. Across top of neck make spaces of trebles, separated by 2 chain, in
which to run cord or ribbon.
27. Also with white, make 2 trebles in every space.
28. With color, make 2 trebles between each group of last row.
29. Like 28th row, with white. This completes the collar.
30. Fasten color at top of left front, * chain 4, fasten in space
between trebles, repeat from * around the jacket, collar and all; fasten
off neatly.
For the sleeve:
1. Fasten wool where you started the underarm chain, make the required
number of stars (not widening) across shoulder, and 9 stars on the chain
under the arm.
2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11. Same as 1st row, making star over star
of previous row, and joining underneath the arm.
12. With color, work the cuff in star-stitch, only omit taking the
stitch under the back loop of star in last row, and take a loop through
each of 2 eyes of stars instead, thus drawing in the sleeve, and making
only 12 stars in the round.
13. With the color, make star in star.
14. Using white wool, make 2 trebles in eye of each star.
15, 16, 17. Same as 28th, 29th and 30th rows of border.
This makes a dainty, soft little garment. If one likes, treble stitch
may be alternated with star-stitch, on the return rows; that is, after
making a row of stars, instead of breaking the wool, turn, chain 3, and
make trebles across, or the trebles may be crossed to give a more fancy
effect, making a treble in 2d stitch, then a treble back in preceding
stitch.
Run ribbon matching the colored wool, or cord and tassels made of both
white and color, in the spaces around the neck.
Girl's Jacket
[Illustration: Girl's jacket]
Materials required are 12 skeins of gray Germantown yarn and 1 skein of
blue. Make a chain of 52 stitches.
1. A double in 8th stitch of chain, * chain 3, miss 3, 1 double in next;
repeat from * 10 times, making 12 loops in all, turn.
2. Chain 4, 3 trebles in 1st loop, * chain 1, 3 trebles in next loop;
repeat from * across the row, ending with 4 trebles, turn.
3. Chain 4, a double under 1 chain, * chain 3, a double under next;
repeat to end of row.
Repeat 2d and 3d rows 23 times, making 24 rows of blocks in all,
alternating with rows of loops. Divide the width into three parts, 4
blocks for back of neck and 4 for each front. Work same as 3d row until
you have made 4 blocks, the last block of 4 trebles, turn and work back
same as 3d row. Repeat these 2 rows twice more; in next row, to widen,
make 6 trebles under 4th loop, chain 4, turn, miss 3 of 6 trebles, a
double between next 2, chain 3, fasten under 1 chain, and continue
across. The next row will consist of 5 blocks, and there are 20 rows of
5 blocks each, in all, making the same length of back. Make the other
front in exactly the same way.
For the border:
1. Fasten in at corner of neck (at end of 1st row of 5 blocks), work in
blocks down the front, across the bottom, putting 3 extra trebles at
each corner to turn smoothly, up over shoulder and down back, and so on
around to opposite corner, omitting the stitch between blocks.
2. Fasten blue yarn at right front and work a row of loops as described,
fastening the chains between groups of 3 trebles.
Make 3 more rows of blocks, same color as body of jacket, with always
the 3 extra trebles (6 in all) at corners to turn, and following the 2d
and 3d rows with the row of loops in blue.
For the sleeve: Fold the jacket evenly and fasten yarn at the back of
jacket, at the desired width for sleeve--9 blocks from top of shoulder,
in the model; chain 9, fasten to front, work around armhole with a row
of loops (gray), making 21 loops in all, 3 under arm, chain 3, 2 trebles
under 1st loop, chain 1, 3 trebles under next loop; repeat around, join,
and repeat the rows of loops and blocks to required length; the model
has 25 rows of blocks, ending with the row of loops.
For the cuff: Leave 7 blocks on top of sleeve, fasten in 8th loop (the
3d from center loop at top of sleeve), work around as usual to 3d loop
from center on other side, turn, make a row of loops, then a row of
blocks. Fasten the blue yarn to sleeve, and work around cuff with loops;
make a row of blocks with 6 trebles at corners to turn, and continue to
match border of jacket, making 4 rows of blocks and 3 of blue
chain-loops.
For the collar: Fasten yarn at corner of neck, in 1st block made in
border, and make 3 trebles in the same place, make a block in the side
of each 3 following blocks, along the neck toward the back, putting
chain 1 between, 2 blocks in side of next, to widen, 6 blocks, widen, 3
blocks. Follow with a row of loops, and continue same as for cuffs,
widening as directed and twice putting 6 trebles under each of 2
consecutive loops in outer row. Join at beginning and end of each row to
upper edge of jacket-border.
Finish with a border of loops, as follows: A double between blocks,
(chain 3, a double in same place) twice. Crochet a chain of the blue
yarn and use this to lace under the arms, finishing the ends with loops
as for the edge, and tying in a bow. Make a shorter chain for each cuff,
lace together and tie in a little bow to the sleeve. A similar chain is
used to draw in the neck.
Any preferred colors may, of course, be used. The jacket can be easily
made large enough for an adult, and is beautiful in blue-and-white
Saxony for a baby.
Babies' Jacket
[Illustration: Babies' Jacket]
Materials required are three skeins of Saxony yarn, one spool
silk-finished crochet-cotton or crochet-silk, and two and one-half yards
of No. 1 ribbon. Use a hook which will carry the yarn easily.
Make a chain of 100 stitches, turn.
1. Miss 1st 4 stitches, make a treble in each of 96 stitches, drawing
up to about five-eighths of an inch. Break and fasten wool (this so the
work will be done on the right side; one may turn, if preferred, but the
effect is not so good).
2. Fasten in where you began, pull up, make 2 trebles in top of 3d
treble and 1 treble back to where you fastened in, which makes a cross;
repeat, making 32 crosses in all; break thread and again join in at the
end where you began.
3. Make 21 trebles over 7 crosses, (12 trebles over next 2, 18 trebles
over 6 crosses) twice, 12 over 2, and again 21 over 7, which brings you
to end of row. The 12 trebles over 2 are to widen; the others are made 2
on each cross and 1 between.
4. Same as 2d row, 38 crosses.
5. Make 21 trebles plain (that is, 3 over each cross). 24 over 4
crosses, 21 plain, 12 over 2 crosses, 21 plain, 24 over next 4, 21
plain.
6. Forty-eight crosses.
7. Make 21 plain, 12 over next 2 crosses, 12 plain, (12 over next 2, 24
plain) twice, 12 over next 2, 12 plain, 12 over next 2, 21 plain.
8. Fifty-eight crosses.
9. Make 24 plain, miss 12 crosses, 24 plain, 12 over next 2, 24 plain,
miss 12 crosses, 24 plain.
10. Thirty-six crosses.
11. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under each arm, and 6 extra over the 6
crosses at center of back.
12. Forty crosses.
13. Plain, with 6 extra in back.
14. Forty-two crosses.
15. Like 13th row.
16. Forty-four crosses.
17. Like 13th row.
18. Forty-six crosses.
19. Plain, without widening in the back.
Around the neck make spaces for the ribbon by fastening in at end of
foundation-chain, chain 5, miss 2, a treble in next, * chain 2, miss 2,
1 treble, and repeat. Now make a row of crosses entirely around the
jacket, putting extra crosses at corners to keep the work flat, follow
this with a row of trebles, widening by making extra trebles at corners
to turn them nicely, finish with a row of shells of 8 trebles in a
stitch, miss 3, fasten, miss 3; repeat, and edge with the crochet-silk,
making a double between 1st 2 trebles of shell, (chain 2, a double
between next 2) 6 times, chain 2, double in double between shells, chain
2, and repeat.
For the sleeves:
1. Make 6 trebles on trebles under the arm, and 36 over the 12 crosses.
2. Fourteen crosses.
3. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under arm, 45 in all.
4. Fifteen crosses.
5. Same as 3d row, making 48 trebles.
6. Sixteen crosses.
7. Same as 3d row, making 51 trebles.
8. Seventeen crosses.
9. Same as 3d row, making 54 trebles.
Finish with shells and chain-loops, as described for the body of jacket.
Run one and one-fourth yards of ribbon in the neck, and divide the
remainder, running it in the 7th row of sleeve and making a pretty bow
on top.
Baby's Shoes in Crochet
[Illustration: Baby's Shoes in Crochet]
These little shoes may be made of crochet-cotton, or silk, white or
delicate color, or of wool. They are very firm and neat, and shaped to
the foot. The sample pair was made of No. 15 crochet-cotton; finer or
coarser material will result in a smaller or larger shoe, by the same
directions.
Commence at bottom of the sole with a chain of 33 stitches.
1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each of 31 stitches, 3 in end stitch, 1
in each of 31 stitches down other side and 3 in last, join.
2. A double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, 1 in each double down the side to
within 2 stitches of middle of toe, 2 in next, 1 in next, 3 in middle
stitch, 1 in next, 2 in next, 1 in each down side, ending with 2 in 3d
stitch from middle of heel, 1 in next, and 3 in next, join.
3. Chain 1, a double in each of 2 stitches, 2 in next, 1 in each down
the side to within 4 of the end, 2 in next, 1 in each of 3, 3 in middle
stitch, 1 in each of 3, 2 in next, 1 in each down side, 2 in 4th stitch
from the end, 1 in each of 3, 2 in middle stitch of heel, join.
4. Same as 3d row, making an extra stitch between widenings.
5. Chain 4, miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat, making 2 trebles
with 1 chain between in each of the widenings of the toe, and 3 trebles,
with 1 chain between, at back of heel.
6. Chain 1, a double in each stitch all around, making 2 doubles in the
widening spaces at side of toe and in the middle of heel.
7. Chain 1, a double in each stitch around, widening as usual on each
side of toe and in the middle, also in middle of heel; join.
8. Same as 7th row.
9. Chain 4, * miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat around, join to
3d of 4 chain.
10. Chain 1, a double in each treble and in space; narrow 11 stitches
from middle of toe by putting hook through 2 stitches at once, or by
missing a stitch, also at middle of toe, join.
11, 12. Same as 10th row, making double in double, and narrowing as
directed.
13. Like 11th row until you have reached the 3d narrowing on the vamp,
then turn and work back across vamp, narrowing at the end, turn.
14. Chain 1, a double in each double across vamp, narrowing in the
middle and at end.
15, 17. Like 13th row.
16, 18. Like 14th row.
19. Chain 1, a double in each double, narrowing at middle of vamp and on
the sides.
20. Turn and work across top of vamp with a double in each stitch.