row back, chain 11, turn, miss 1, 10 doubles in 10 stitches, catch in
1st double of side of shoe, a single in next double on side of shoe,
turn; a double in each of 9 doubles, 2 in last, turn; chain 1, 2 doubles
in 1st double, 1 in each following double, join to next double of side,
a single in next, turn; a double in each double of last row, with 2 at
end, turn; chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, chain 5, miss 5, a
double in each following double, join to next double of side, a single
in next, turn; double in each double, with 5 in 5 stitches of chain,
turn; chain 1, a double in each double; join, slip in next double of
side, turn; work 5 more rows, widening 1 stitch at end of every other
row; then chain 4, turn; miss 1, a double in each of 3 stitches and
double in each double, join, slip in next double, turn; work back with
double in each double, chain 1, turn, 2 doubles in 2 doubles, chain 5,
miss 5, double in double, join, slip in next double, turn, work back
with double in double, chain 1, turn, and work double in double around
to within 14 stitches of top of vamp on other side, turn; chain 1,
double in double to edge of flap, turn; chain 1 and make a double in
double around to the other side. Continue thus until you have worked 6
rows around top of shoe, then make a buttonhole as before, and finish
with 4 rows. The shoe may be made higher, if desired, and more
buttonholes added.
For the buttons. Chain 3, join; 8 doubles in ring; 2 doubles in each
double; a double in each double; a double in every other double; slip in
a pearl or porcelain button of requisite size, draw together, and sew to
the shoe, matching the position of the buttonholes.
Ribbed House-Slippers
[Illustration: Ribbed House-slipper]
Use 2-fold Shetland zephyr, or any similar yarn of moderate twist.
Commencing at the toe, make a chain of 11 stitches, turn.
1. A double in 2d stitch of chain and 1 in each of 8 stitches, 3 doubles
in end chain, 1 double in each of 9 stitches down other side of chain,
in same stitches where the 1st 9 doubles were worked, chain 1, turn.
2. Ten doubles in 10 doubles, taking up back vein of stitch to form the
rib, 3 doubles in next, or center stitch, 10 doubles in 10 doubles,
chain 1, turn.
3, 4, 5. Same as 2d row, making 1 extra double each side of center, each
row.
6. A double in each double, without widening, chain 1, turn.
7. A double in each double, with 3 in center stitch.
Repeat 6th and 7th rows until you have 25 ribs, or the vamp is as deep
as desired. If preferred, the widening may be made every row, putting 2
doubles in one and then the other, alternately, of the widening doubles.
For the side of foot make 24 doubles in 24 doubles, chain 1, turn, a
double in double, chain 1, turn, and continue until you have 44 ribs, or
the strip is of sufficient length to extend easily around the sole; join
neatly to 24 doubles on opposite side of vamp.
Around top of slipper work a beading in which to run the elastic, thus:
Fasten in, between 2 ribs, chain 10, * miss 5 ribs, a triple treble
(over 3 times) between next 2, chain 1, a triple treble between next 2,
chain 5, repeat from * around, ending with 1 triple treble, chain 1,
join to 5th of 10 chain.
For ruching: Have 3 strands of yarn, insert hook in work, over 4 times,
pull through, and repeat in each stitch, pulling the loops out about
three-fourths inch, and always taking yarn next to you to next stitch;
make this for bottom of beading, as well, and the latter will be
entirely covered. Run an elastic band or tape in the beading, between
the 2 triple trebles, and make a bow of ribbon for instep of the same
shade as the yarn.
Baby's Bootees
[Illustration: No. 1. Baby's Bootees]
A pair of dainty bootees makes a nice gift for baby, and is appreciated
scarcely less by baby's mamma. Two very pretty styles are given, one in
pink and white, the accepted colors for a girlie, the other in blue and
white--blue being the color usually chosen for a little son's
belongings.[Transcriber's Note: The original had blue and pink reversed
in the above paragraph.]
Commencing with white Saxony, make a chain of 11 stitches, turn.
NO. 1. 1.--Miss 1 stitch, a double in each of 10 stitches, turn.
2. Chain 1, a double in each of 10 doubles, taking up the back loop of
stitch to form a rib, turn.
Repeat 2d row until you have 8 ribs; at the end of the last row chain
11, turn, miss 1, a double in each of 10 stitches of chain and in 10
doubles, chain 1, turn, and continue, making 4 of the long ribs, then,
working only on the 10 doubles, make 8 more short ribs, and join at the
back of the leg to the foundation chain, taking into each stitch.
For the upper part of leg:
1. Chain 3, and make trebles all around, 38 in all, joining to top of 3
chain.
2. Draw out the stitch on needle, pull up a loop through 1st and 3d
stitches of preceding row, take up the yarn, and draw through the 3
loops on the needle at once, chain 1 to close the cluster, * draw up a
loop in same place with last and another in 3d stitch, work off as
before and repeat around.
3. Draw out the stitch on needle, take a loop in the space before
pineapple-stitch of last row and another in the space after, work off as
before, take a loop in same space as before, another in next space, work
off, and repeat.
4. Like 3d row, with blue.
5, 6. Like 3d row, with white.
7. With blue, a double in each stitch.
8. With white, chain 3, a treble in each double, join.
9. With blue, make 1 double in 1st stitch, chain 3, 1 double in same
stitch, miss 1; repeat. Fasten off neatly.
For the foot:
1. With blue make a double in each stitch all around bottom of leg and
instep.
2. A double in each double, taking up both veins of stitch to avoid a
rib.
3, 4. Same as 2d row, with white.
5, 6. Same as 2d row, with blue.
7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 2d row, with white, joining the last row with
single crochet on the wrong side. Finish with cord and tassels or with
ribbon, run in and out the 1st row of trebles on upper part of leg.
* * * * *
[Illustration: No. 2. Baby's Bootees]
NO. 2. Using the white yarn make a chain of 37 stitches, join.
1. Chain 3, a treble in each stitch, join.
2, 3. With pink, make a double in each stitch, join. Repeat 1st, 2d and
3d rows 3 times, which will give you 4 ribs each of pink and white.
13. Chain 3, with white, miss 1st stitch of last row, make a treble in
next, then a treble back in 1st stitch, forming a crossed treble; repeat
around, join.
14. With pink, a double in a stitch, chain 3; repeat. Fasten off
securely.
For the foot:
1. With white, fasten in the 17th treble from back of leg, draw up a
loop through each of 6 stitches, keeping all on needle; take up yarn and
draw through 1st stitch, * again draw through 2, and repeat until all
are worked off; now insert hook under the little upright bar formed by
working off the last row, draw up a loop and repeat until you have again
the number of loops on needle; continue until you have 9 rows of
afghan-stitch.
Again using white, fasten at back of leg and make a double in each
stitch of leg and around the instep; make 4 more rows of doubles, 1 in
each stitch of preceding row, taking up both loops to avoid a rib, then
5 rows of pink in the same way, joining the last row as before directed.
Finish with cord and tassels or ribbon, run in the 4th row of trebles
around top of bootee.
A Sweater and Cap for Dolly
[Illustration: Sweater and Cap for Dolly]
One skein of white and blue Saxony will be sufficient for two sets; use
a crochet-hook that will carry the wool easily. Commence the sweater
with a chain of 60 stitches.
1. A double in each stitch of chain, turn.
2. A treble and a double in back of double of last row (chain 3 for 1st
treble of the row), miss 1 double; repeat to end of row, turn.
3. A treble and a double taken between treble and double of last row;
repeat.
4. A double in back of each stitch of last row (chain 1 for 1st double).
5. Same as 4th row. This completes the portion over the shoulder.
On one half the length repeat the 2d, 3d, 4th, 5th and again the 2d row
which completes one front. Work in the same way on the other half of
length, which brings you to the center of the back and makes half of the
sweater. Make the other half to correspond, and join neatly down center
of back. Fold and join under the arms, making the armscye of desired
size.
For the sleeve: Make a chain of 15 stitches, and repeat from 1st to 5th
row; then repeat from 2d to 5th row twice, and join last row to 1st;
also crochet sleeve in the armscye.
Entirely around the sweater make 4 rows of double crochet with blue
yarn, working in both veins of stitch to avoid a rib, and putting 3
stitches in 1 at corners to turn smoothly. After working 2 rows of left
front make the buttonholes, separated by 8 doubles, by chain 3, miss 3;
then in next row make a double also in each stitch of chain.
Finish bottom of sleeves in same way, missing every 2d stitch in 1st row
to draw in the cuff a little. Sew on pearl buttons to match the
buttonholes.
Cap: Chain 5, join to form a ring.
1. Chain 3, (yarn over hook, insert hook in ring, take up yarn and draw
through) twice, yarn over and draw through all the loops on needle,
chain 1 to close the "bean," make 6 more bean-stitches in ring, and join
to top of 1st.
2. Chain 3, and make a bean in top of each of last row, and between each
2; join.
3. Chain 3, a bean-stitch between each 2 of last row, widening every 3d
or 4th by making a bean in top of bean.
4, 5. Same as 3d row, widening every 5th bean, or as necessary in order
to keep the shape.
Make 5 more rows without widening, which completes the body of cap.
For the border, turn cap wrong side out and tie in the blue yarn,
working on the wrong side to form the band so that it will turn up on
the right side.
1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches from hook, also
through next 2 stitches of last row of cap, * take up wool and draw
through all the stitches on needle, chain 1 to close the star, draw up a
loop through eye of star last made, under the 1 chain, another through
back part of last loop of preceding star, and 2 loops in next 2
stitches; repeat from *, and continue until you have made 4 rows of
star-stitch. Fasten off neatly.
Make a tassel of the colored (blue) yarn, and attach to top of cap by a
crocheted cord.
This set will make a charming gift for a little girl. By using fourfold
Germantown the sweater will be large enough for the small mother herself
to wear, or it may be easily enlarged by using the heavier wool and
working in the same pattern on a longer foundation-chain. The cap may
also be made large enough for a child by adding to the number of
bean-stitches in each row.
Child's Cap in Bean-Stitch
[Illustration: Child's Cap in Bean-Stitch]
Materials required are one skein of cream-white Shetland floss and a
little light-blue Saxony yarn, with medium-sized bone hook. Chain 5,
join.
1. Draw up loop one-fourth inch long, yarn over, hook in ring, draw loop
through, over and draw through 3 loops now on needle, * chain 1, draw up
a loop in ring, over, draw up another loop in ring, over, draw through
all 4 loops; repeat to make 4 more bean-stitches, 6 in all, with 1 chain
between, and join last 1 chain to top of 1st stitch.
2. Draw loop up long over 1st bean-stitch, over, hook through same
stitch, draw through, over and draw through all the loops; this is 1st
stitch of each row. Chain 1, a bean-stitch in following space, chain 1,
bean-stitch in bean-stitch; repeat around, join.
3. Bean-stitch in 1st stitch, in each space and every 3d bean-stitch,
with 1 chain between, join.
4. Same as 3d row, with bean-stitch over every 4th bean-stitch.
5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 4th row, with an additional space between
widenings; in 5th row make a bean-stitch in every 5th, and so on, with
bean-stitch in every 10th, in 10th row.
11, 12, 13. Bean-stitch in each space.
14. Change to double crochet for head-band, making a double in each
stitch.
15, 16, 17, 18, 19. A double in each double, working in both veins of
stitch; narrow twice in each row.
20, 21. Double in each double.
22. A bean-stitch in each 2d double, 1 chain between.
23, 24, 25, 26, 27. Bean-stitch in each space; fasten off white yarn.
28. Fasten blue yarn in space, chain 4, draw up a loop in 2d chain from
hook, 1 in 3d and 1 in 4th, all rather long loops, over, draw through
all 4 loops, chain 1, fasten in next space with a single, and repeat.
This makes a small, pointed scallop and finishes edge of cap.
For the button: Using the blue yarn, chain 3, 8 doubles in 2d stitch of
chain. Continue around and around without joining, 1st row with 2
doubles in each stitch, then widen sufficiently to keep the work flat
until nearly as large as the button you wish to cover; after one or two
more rounds, decrease by working off 3 loops instead of 2, slip the
button in and continue, keeping the work tight over the button until you
have about half of space covered; then break the yarn, draw up with
needle and sew to center of crown.
This cap is large enough for a little boy or girl of three years, and
may be easily enlarged. The border may be turned down over the ears for
extra warmth.
Child's Crocheted Hood
[Illustration: Child's Crocheted Hood]
Use eiderdown or very heavy Germantown worsted, with a hook large enough
to carry the wool without fraying. Chain 4 stitches, join.
1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches of chain, and 2
through the ring; take up wool and work off all together, chain 1 to
close the star, draw a loop through eye of star (under 1 chain just
made), another through back part of last loop, and 2 in ring; work off
as before, and repeat until you have made 6 stars; join.
2. Make 12 stars in the row, taking the 4th loop of each star in same
stitch with last stitch of preceding star, and 5th in stitch ahead, so
that you get 2 stars over each star of preceding row.
3. Make 16 stars, widening 4 times.
4, 5, 6. Leave 4 stars for back of neck and work back and forth for 3
rows. Break wool at end of each row and fasten in at beginning, so the
stars will come on the right side; chain 3, draw 2 loops through 2d and
3d stitches of chain, then proceed as usual.
Make 4 rows of doubles around the lower edge, then a row of stars
entirely around the hood, widening by putting an extra star at each
corner of front to prevent drawing.
For the rosette: Chain 3, join; chain 7, * a double treble in ring,
chain 3, repeat from * 6 times, and join to 4th of 7 chain. Run ribbon
in and out the spaces, sew the rosette in place, and finish with ties of
ribbon.
This hood is easily enlarged, by following general directions, and any
stitch, plain or fancy, may be used for it.
Child's Crocheted Hood in Wedge-Stitch
[Illustration: Child's Crocheted Hood in Wedge-Stitch]
Materials required are one and one-half hanks of 4-fold Germantown wool,
white, or any preferred color, and a bone crochet-hook of medium size.
While intended for a small child, this hood may be very easily enlarged
to fit any head.
Chain 4 stitches with white wool, join.
1. Chain 3 for a treble, 19 trebles in ring, join.
2. Draw up a loop, insert hook in 1st stitch, * wool over, draw up a
loop, wool over, hook in next stitch, over, draw up a loop, wool over,
draw through all the loops on hook, chain 1, insert hook in same stitch,
and repeat from * until there are 19 wedge-stitches in the round.
3. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a loop, over, insert
hook in next space, draw up a loop, over, draw through all loops on the
needle, chain 1, * insert hook in same space, draw up a loop, over,
insert hook in next space, draw up a loop, over, draw through all
stitches on needle, chain 1, and repeat, widening by putting 2 stitches
in every 3d of previous round.
4. Widen in every 5th stitch.
5. Plain, that is, without widening.
6. Widen every 3d stitch.
7, 8, 9. Plain.
10. Plain to within 7 stitches of the end; break wool and fasten in at
other end again.
11, 12, 13, 14, 15. Same as 10th row, leaving the 7 stitches for back of
neck.
16. Fasten in, chain 3, and work a treble in every stitch. It is very
pretty to use a thread of ice-wool with the Germantown when making the
border.
17, 18. A double in each stitch around bottom or neck of hood.
19, 20, 21, 22, 23. A double in each stitch across front, working in
both veins of stitch.
Turn back the border, finish with a bow of ribbon at back, a rosette on
top, and ribbon ties.
To make the hood larger you have but to continue widening the crown
until of proper size, which will make the front proportionally longer
and leave the neck wider. Any fancy stitch may be used in the same way,
following the general directions given.
Child's Toque in Wedge-Stitch
[Illustration: Child's Toque in Wedge-Stitch]
This pretty cap, which will fit a girl of ten to fourteen years, and is
easily enlarged to any desired size, requires five hanks of
eiderdown-wool. If desired, two colors may be used, say white for cap
and blue for the turnover or border. It is worked in wedge-stitch, and
Germantown wool may be used by making more stitches. Use a bone hook of
suitable size, that is, one which will carry the wool easily without
catching in it. Make a chain of 4 stitches and join.
1. Draw out the loop, insert hook in ring, draw up a loop, wool over,
insert hook in ring, draw up another loop, wool over, draw through all
the loops on needle, chain 1, and repeat until you have 11
wedge-stitches in the ring; join.
2. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a loop, wool over,
hook in next space, draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all loops on
needle, chain 1, * hook in same space, draw up a loop, wool over, hook
in next space, draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all on hook,
chain 1, and repeat from *, widening by making an extra stitch in every
other stitch of last round.
3. Widen in every 3d stitch.
4. Widen in every 6th stitch.
Work six times around plain, that is, without widening; then if color is
used for the turnover join it in and work once around, turn the work so
that the border will be right side out when turned up, and work around
five times more. Make a chain of 18 or 20 stitches, according to length
you wish the tassel, wind the wool over four fingers, or a card five
inches wide, 20 times, slip off, tie tightly near one end to form the
head of tassel, and cut open the other end.
* * * * *
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Needlecraft
Augusta--Maine
How To Secure Your Yarn Without Cost
The women of America are knitting as never before. In the social set, no
gathering can be fashionable that does not tolerate knitting; the
business woman must needs knit on the car to and from her work; while to
the busy housewife no duty is so imperative as to exclude knitting from
the daily routine. It almost seems as if the women of America--all
women, rich and poor alike--were devoting their united efforts to one
vast universal consecration--the comfort of our boys over there.
There is just one drawback to the fulfilment of this noble ambition that
every woman in America shall devote every spare moment to the knitting
of warm sweaters, stockings, and other comforts for the boys in khaki,
and that is--the tremendously high price of worsted yarns. We can all
squeeze out a little more time but we can none of us spend more money
than we have, and in these times the calls for cash donations are urgent
and not infrequent. But now you can have all the yarn that you will use
without spending any money. A little more time is now the only essential
to your doing your bit for the comfort of those who are offering their
all for our safety. You who have been unable to knit as much as you have
wanted to, because you have lacked the means to do with, need feel that
drawback no longer. Needlecraft has provided
~An assured supply of Knitting-Worsted in the Regulation Blue, Gray and
Khaki which you can secure without cost by getting subscriptions to
Needlecraft on the following liberal terms:~
Send us only ~10~ yearly subscriptions to Needlecraft at our regular
subscription-price of ~35 cents~ each, and we will send each subscriber
this paper one year, and we will send you, prepaid, one
one-quarter-pound skein of Knitting-Worsted (Premium No. 6395). (We
reserve the right to provide an equal weight in balls instead of skeins
if necessary.)
NOTE--To those who prefer Knitting-Worsted of some other color for a
lady's sweater or any purpose whatever, we will provide it on the
same liberal terms; or if you prefer finer yarns we will provide
Germantown Zephyr at four subscriptions a skein (Premium No. 6396),
and Shetland Floss at three subscriptions a skein (Premium No.
6397).
Needlecraft
Augusta--Maine
[Illustration]
End of Project Gutenberg's Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet, by Anonymous