next, and repeat, working back and forth until all the spaces are
filled. A very attractive finish is to work a row of doubles in color,
making a double in each treble. With fine wool, crochet-silk may be
prettily used for this finish.
A fringed wrister may be made on the foundation described by holding a
pencil on lengthwise with the left hand, and with the right sewing over
and over it; make the rows quite close together, cut the wound yarn open
with a pair of sharp scissors, and brush lightly across it, back and
forth, until the cut ends become "mossy" or fluffed up.
Motor-Scarf
[Illustration: Motor-Scarf]
This motor-scarf may be of pink and white, or any preferred colors of
Shetland floss. Use wooden needles and cast on 100 stitches with pink.
1, 3. Purl.
2. Knit plain.
4. Knit 3, over twice, narrow; repeat across, ending with knit 3.
5. Purl, dropping 2d of the over-twice loops.
6. Knit plain.
7, 9. With white, purl.
8, 10. Knit plain.
Repeat until the scarf is of the length required. The sides are finished
with shells, in white, making 8 trebles, well drawn out, in the center
of the pink stripe, and fastening in center of white stripe with 1
double.
Finish the ends with fringe knotted in, six inches long and composed of
10 threads each of pink and white.
Sport Scarf
[Illustration: Sport Scarf]
A very attractive scarf uses brown Shetland as a body color, with deep
cream-color, green and rose in combination with the brown for stripes.
Using No. 3½ or No. 4 bone needles, cast on 84 stitches and knit back
and forth for 64 rows or 32 ribs; then join in the cream-color and knit
(4 rows of cream, 2 rows of brown) 5 times, 10 rows of cream, (2 of
brown, 4 of cream) 5 times; 64 rows of brown; join in green, (4 rows of
green, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 rows of green; (2 of brown, 4 of green) 3
times; 64 rows of brown; (4 of rose, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 of rose; (2
of brown, 4 of rose) 3 times; * 64 rows of brown. Reverse from *, making
the other end of scarf as directed for first half.
For the fringe, cut strands of brown six inches long, and knot a strand
in each stitch.
For a lighter scarf use No. 4 bone needles and cast on 48 or 50
stitches. The larger needles with loose knitting will give work much
more open. If desired one may introduce rows of fancy knitting instead
of the colored stripes. In fact, having made one scarf, the worker will
find it possible to vary it in many ways, and will find such variation a
pleasing study.
Many like to use a thread of silk or mercerized crochet-cotton with the
Shetland floss or other wool which may be chosen.
Scarf in Lattice-Stitch
[Illustration: Scarf in Lattice-Stitch]
Using Shetland floss and No. 4 bone needles, cast on as many stitches as
required for width of scarf, using a multiple of 6 with 2 over.
Knit back and forth 6 times.
7. Knit 1, over 3 times; repeat, knitting last stitch.
8. Knit 1, draw up the loop about one inch in length, (drop the "overs,"
and slip the knitted stitch) 6 times, slip the 6 long stitches to
left-hand needle, draw the last 3 over 1st 3, knitting each, then knit
the 1st 3, and repeat, knitting 1 at end of row. Take care the long
stitches are not twisted.
9. 10, 11. Knit plain.
Repeat from 7th row.
Gather up the ends of the scarf and finish with cord and tassel, or a
bow of ribbon, as preferred.
Knitting for the Red Cross
(Official Red Cross Photographs)
Sleeveless Sweater
[Illustration: Sleeveless Sweater]
Three hanks of gray or khaki knitting-yarn (¾ pound), fivefold, and a
pair of amber needles No. 5, or No. 3 Red Cross needles will be needed;
11 stitches should measure two inches. Cast on 80 stitches. Knit 2, purl
2 stitches for 4 inches. Knit plain until sweater measures 25 inches.
Knit 28 stitches, bind off 24 stitches for neck, loose. Knit 28
stitches. Knit 7 ridges on each shoulder, cast on 24 stitches. Knit
plain for 21 inches. Purl 2, knit 2 stitches for 4 inches. Sew up sides,
leaving 9 inches for armholes. Two rows single crochet around neck and 1
row single crochet around armholes.
[Illustration: Sleeveless Sweater before Sides Are Sewed Together]
Washcloth
[Illustration: Washcloth]
White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red Cross needles No. 1.
Cast on 70 stitches, knit back and forth plain until cloth is about 10
inches square, and bind off. Sew a loop of tape to one corner.
Service Sock
[Illustration: Service Sock]
A service-sock requires three skeins of knitting-yarn for two pairs,
with No. 11 steel needles. Cast on 24 stitches on each of 2 needles, and
20 on the 3d. Knit 2 and purl 2 for 3½ inches.
Knit 10, or halfway across the 3d needle, pick up an extra stitch and
purl it, keeping this always for the seam-stitch at back of leg, knit
plain to end of round. Continue knitting plain and purling the seam
stitch for four inches.
Knit to within 3 stitches of the seam-stitch, narrow, knit 1, purl the
seam-stitch, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped stitch over, and
knit plain to end of round. Repeat, narrowing as directed every 6th
round, 4 times. Now knit without decreasing for one inch.
For the heel: Place 15 stitches each side of the middle or seam-stitch,
and knit back and forth, 1 row plain and 1 purl, alternately, for 25
rows, always slipping the 1st stitch. To turn the heel, slip the 1st
stitch, knit 15, narrow, knit 1, turn work; slip 1, purl 2, purl 2
together, purl 1, turn, slip 1, knit 3, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1,
purl 4, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 5, narrow, knit 1,
turn; slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 7,
narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 8, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn;
slip 1, knit 9, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 10, purl 2 together,
purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 11, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 12,
purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 13, narrow, knit 1, turn;
slip 1, purl 14, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 14, narrow.
Proceed to pick up 17 stitches down side of heel next to needle just
finished, knitting each as you pick it up; knit the 30 left on the
needle for front of foot, and pick up 17 down other side of heel; then
knit on with these half the stitches left at top of heel.
Knit 1 round plain; narrow the 2d round as follows: On 1st side needle
knit to within 3 of end, narrow, knit 1; knit across front needle; on
side needle knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, and knit
to end. Decrease in this manner every 2d round until there are 15
stitches on each side needle, reducing them to correspond with the front
needle, and making 10 narrowings for the instep.
Knit five inches without narrowing, then decrease for the toe in the
following manner: Knit to within 3 of end of 1st side needle, narrow,
knit 1; on front needle, knit 1, slip and bind as before, knit to within
3 of the end, narrow, knit 1; on other side needle, knit 1, slip and
bind, knit plain to the end. Knit 2 rounds plain, and repeat last 3
rounds three times more; then decrease with 1 row plain between three
times, and after that decrease every row until there are but 4 stitches
on the front needle. Finish off neatly, drawing the toe together and
darning in with a worsted-needle.
One-Piece Helmet
[Illustration: One-Piece Helmet]
One hank of yarn (¼ pound); Red Cross needles No. 2.
Cast on 56 stitches loosely. Knit plain for 8 inches for front piece,
and leave on extra needle. Knit another piece to correspond for back.
These pieces must be at least 9 inches wide. Slip the stitches of both
pieces on to 3 needles, arranging for last 2 stitches of back piece to
be on beginning of 1st needle, with 38 stitches of front piece added
(making 40 on 1st needle).
Divide rest of stitches on other 2 needles; 36--36.
Beginning with 1st needle, knit 2, purl 2 for 6 inches. Then on 1st
needle knit 2, purl 2 for 18 stitches. Bind off 22 stitches for face
opening. (Try to keep same arrangement of stitches on needles for
further directions.) Knit 2, purl 2 forward and back on remaining 90
stitches for 1½ inches, always slipping first stitch. Cast on 22
stitches loosely to complete face opening, and knit 2, purl 2 for 2½
inches (adjust stitches by slipping 2 from end of 3d needle to 1st
needle, making 42 on 1st needle).
Knit 1 round plain. Knit 2 stitches together, knit 11, knit 2 stitches
together, knit 1. Repeat to end of round. Knit 4 rows plain. Then knit 2
stitches together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 1. Repeat to end of
round. Knit 4 rows plain. Continue in this way, narrowing on every fifth
round and reducing number of stitches between narrowed stitches by 2 (as
7, 5, 3, etc.) until you have 28 stitches left on needles. Divide on 2
needles, having 14 on 1st needle and 14 on the other.
Break off yarn, leaving 12-inch end. Thread into worsted-needle and
proceed to weave the front and back together as follows:
* Pass worsted-needle through 1st stitch of front knitting-needle as if
knitting, and slip stitch off--pass through 2d stitch as if
purling--leave stitch on, pass thread through 1st stitch of back needle
as if purling, slip stitch off, pass thread through 2d stitch of back
needle as if knitting, leave stitch on. Repeat from * until all the
stitches are off the needle.
Muffler
[Illustration: Muffler]
Two and one-half skeins of knitting-yarn and one pair amber needles No.
5, or Red Cross needles No. 3 will be required. Cast on 50 stitches,
measuring 11 inches, and knit back and forth until the muffler is
sixty-eight inches in length.
Hot-Water-Bottle Cover
[Illustration: Hot-Water-Bottle Cover]
White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red Cross needles No. 1.
Cast on 56 stitches, knit 2, purl 2 and repeat until the work is 4
inches deep. Then knit back and forth plain for 9½ inches more, or
until entire work measures 13½ inches. Next decrease 2 stitches at
beginning and 2 stitches at end of each needle until there are sixteen
stitches left, and bind off. Make another piece in same manner and sew
together. Attach a 20-inch piece of tape to seam at one side of ribbing
to tie around neck of bottle.
Helmet Made in Two Parts
[Illustration: Helmet Made in Two Parts]
One hank of yarn (¼ pound); 1 pair Red Cross Needles No. 2.
The helmet is made in two parts, which afterward are sewed together.
FRONT OF HELMET.--Cast on 48 stitches (11 inches), knit plain for 25
ribs (6 inches) and knit 2, purl 2 for 35 rows. On the next row the
opening for the face is made as follows: Knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2,
knit 2, knit and bind off loosely the next 28 stitches and purl 1, knit
2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2. Run the stitches before the opening on a
spare needle and on the stitches at the other side of opening knit 2,
purl 2 for 12 rows. The last row will end at the opening, and at that
point cast on 28 stitches to offset those bound off. Begin at the face
opening of stitches on spare needle and knit 2, purl 2 for 12 rows. At
the end of the 12th row continue all across to the end of other needle,
when there should be 48 stitches on needle as at first. Knit 2, purl 2
for 24 rows.
TOP OF HELMET.--Knit 2, narrow (knitting 2 stitches together), knit 14,
narrow, knit 14, narrow, knit 12. Purl the entire next row. On the 3d
row knit 2, narrow, knit 13, narrow, knit 13, narrow, knit 11. Purl 4th
row. On the 5th row knit 2, narrow, knit 12, narrow, knit 12, narrow,
knit 10. Purl 6th row. Continue to narrow in the 3 places every plain
knitted row with 1 stitch less between narrowings until 9 stitches are
left.
BACK OF HELMET.--Work in same manner as for front but omit the face
opening. Sew the stitches of upper edges together with joining-stitch.
Sew up the side seams, leaving the plain knitting at shoulders open.
Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet
[Illustration: Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet]
The thumbless mitt or wristlet requires one half hank of knitting-yarn,
gray, with No. 2 Red Cross needles or No. 11 or No. 12 steel needles.
Nine stitches measure one inch. Cast on 48 stitches and knit 2, purl 2,
for 12 inches; bind off and sew up, leaving an opening for the thumb two
inches in length, three inches from one end. The ordinary wristlets or
pulse-warmers are knitted in the same way, 8½ inches long, and sewed
up with no thumb-opening.
Wristlets made in one piece require one half hank of yarn, and 4 bone
needles No. 3, or steel needles No. 12. Cast on 52 stitches on 3
needles; 16-16-20. Knit 2, purl 2, for 8 inches. To make opening for
thumb, knit 2, purl 2 to end of "Third" needle, turn; knit and purl back
to end of "First" needle, always slipping first stitch, turn. Continue
knitting back and forth for 2 inches. From this point continue as at
first for 4 inches for the hand. Bind off loosely; buttonhole
thumb-opening.
Bed-Sock
[Illustration: Bed-sock]
One hank of yarn (¼ pound) is required, with Red Cross needles No. 2
or steel needles No. 11 or 12.
Cast 48 stitches on three needles, 16 on each. Knit plain and loosely
for 20 inches. Decrease every other stitch by knitting two stitches
together until you have 12 stitches on each of two needles opposite each
other. Break off yarn and weave stitches together as per directions for
finishing one-piece helmet.
Child's Drawers-Leggings Knitted
[Illustration: Child's Drawers-Leggings, Knitted]
Materials required are six hanks of Germantown wool, a pair of bone
needles No. 4, and a pair of steel needles, No. 15.
Cast on 68 stitches.
1 to 16. Knit 2, purl 2; repeat. This is the double rib.
17. Knit 6 plain, turn; knit back on these 6 stitches, turn.
18. Knit 12, turn; knit back on these 12 stitches.
Continue working in this way, knitting 6 more stitches forward each row
and knitting back on the same, until you have 36 stitches on the needle.
Knit back on these 36 stitches, turn. This brings 6 ridges at one side
of the work. Now knit plain across the entire 68 stitches.
Continue knitting back and forth until you have 34 ridges (not counting
the 6 ridges at one side of work); in next row narrow once at each end
of row, and continue in this way, narrowing a stitch each end, until you
have 50 stitches remaining on the needle.
Do 12 rows of double rib (knit 2, purl 2), then begin the cable-twist of
ankle, thus:
1. Knit 7, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on a spare needle, knit 6, then knit
the 3 stitches from the spare needle, forming the twist, purl 2, knit
10, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on spare needle, knit 6, knit the 3 stitches
from spare needle, purl 2, knit 7, turn.
2. Knit 6, purl 1, knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 8, purl 1, knit
2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 6, turn.
3. Knit 7, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit
7.
Repeat last 2 rows, alternately, for 30 rows, making the twist, as
directed in 1st row, every 6th row.
For the instep: Count off or leave 29 stitches; knit back 8 stitches on
these 29, and on the 8 stitches work back and forth until you have 8
ridges. Pick up the stitches around edge of instep, and work back and
forth along the entire row for 4 ridges; bind off.
Make the other leg in the same way, sew up the seams and join the two by
the middle seam.
Around the top work a row of spaces, in which to run the drawstrings,
thus:
1. Fasten in, chain 5, * miss 2, a treble in next, chain 2; repeat
around, and join to 3d of 5 chain.
2. Miss 1 space, 4 trebles in next, miss 1 space, fasten in next;
repeat.
Crochet a cord of the wool and finish the ends with tassels.
A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly
[Illustration: A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly]
Using blue Saxony and medium steel needles, cast on 74 stitches; knit
plain back and forth until you have 10 single ribs, then bind off 6,
knit across to within 6 stitches of the end and bind off these. This is
for the front or turnover of the hood.
Next row, knit 1, * over, narrow, knit 1; repeat, forming holes in which
to run ribbon.
Now change to white yarn and knit across, adding 6 extra stitches
distributed along the front near the top in order to make the back a
trifle full, * knit 1 row, purl 1 row and knit 1 row for a triple rib;
repeat from * 16 times, always slipping the 1st stitch of each row to
give a good selvage.
Bind off 26 stitches on each end of the work; be sure that this is done
on the wrong side, and just before knitting the last row of last rib, as
the binding off finishes the rib and is essential in keeping all the
ribs the same.
Knit the crown on the 16 middle stitches, in the triple ribs described.
Widen twice each end of crown needle during 1st 2 ribs. Knit same number
of ribs as the front, narrowing once or twice each end of needle near
extreme end of crown.
Pick up the stitches for the neck around lower part of crown and fronts,
about 18 stitches on each of the latter and alternate loops on the
crown; knit across with blue, making a row of holes as on the front;
knit 6 or 7 single ribs, and sew neatly to the stitches bound off at
lower edge of front.
Sew the crown neatly to front, run ribbon in the spaces made for it and
tighten slightly, and finish with ties and bows of ribbon.
By adding extra stitches to the front, and making the crown
proportionately larger, these directions will be found to serve
admirably for baby's first hood, or as large a hood as wanted.
A Lesson in Crochet
The stitches and terms given herewith are such as are in general use,
and were taught the writer by an English teacher of crocheting, herself
a professional in the art. In some periodicals and books, the real
slip-stitch is omitted, and the single is called slip-stitch; the double
is called single, the treble is called double, the double treble is
called treble, and so on.
There are different ways of holding the crochet-needle and carrying the
thread, and many consider one way as good as another unless, as is
usually the case, one's own method is thought a little the best. The
following instructions were given by the English teacher in question,
and are those commonly accepted: Hold the needle in the right hand very
much as you hold a pen when writing, letting the handle extend between
the forefinger and thumb, which rest on and hold the needle. Hold
nothing but the latter in the right hand, not allowing the fingers of
that hand to so much as rest on the work. Hold work with thumb and
second finger of left hand, letting the thread pass over the forefinger,
slightly raised, or held up from the work, under the second, over the
third and under the little finger. These instructions are especially
good for using yarns, when it is desirable to keep the work as soft and
fluffy as possible.
[Illustration: Figure 1. The Chain-Stitch]
THE CHAIN. (Figure 1.) Make a loop of thread around the needle, take up
the thread and draw through this loop (that is, push the hook under the
thread that passes over the forefinger, draw it back, catching the
thread, and pull this through the loop on the needle), forming a new
stitch or loop, take up the thread and draw through this, and so
continue until the chain is of the length required, tightening each loop
as drawn through, so that all will be of uniform size and smoothness.
After a little practise one does this without thought. When
abbreviations are used, that for chain is ch.
THE SLIP-STITCH is properly a close joining stitch: Drop the stitch on
the needle, insert hook through the stitch of work to which you wish to
join, take up the dropped stitch and pull through, thus making a close
fastening. This stitch is sometimes used to "slip" along certain
portions of the work, from one to another point, but single crochet is
more often employed for this. The abbreviation is sl-st.
[Illustration: Figure 2. Single Crochet]
SINGLE CROCHET (Figure 2, frequently called slip-stitch, and sometimes
mitten-stitch) is made thus: Having a stitch on needle, insert hook in
work, take up the thread and draw it through the work and the stitch on
the needle at the same time. The abbreviation is s c.
[Illustration: Figure 3. Double Crochet]
DOUBLE CROCHET. (Figure 3). Having a stitch on needle, insert hook in
work, take up thread and draw through, giving you two stitches on the
needle; take up thread and draw through the two stitches. The
abbreviation is d c. There are many variations of the double-crochet
stitch; the slipper-stitch, or ribbed stitch, is formed by taking up the
back horizontal loop or vein of each stitch in preceding row. A quite
different effect is given when the hook is inserted under both loops.
[Illustration: Figure 4. Treble Crochet]
TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 4.) Having a stitch on the needle, take up the
thread as if to make a stitch, insert hook in work, take up thread and
draw through, making three stitches or loops on the needle; * take up
thread and draw through two, again and draw through two. The
abbreviation of treble crochet, is t c. It will be noted that the single
crochet has one "draw," the double two, and the treble three, from which
these stitches take their names.
[Illustration: Figure 5. Half-Treble Crochet]
HALF-TREBLE OR SHORT-TREBLE CROCHET. Like treble to *; then take up
thread and draw through all three stitches at once.
[Illustration: Figure 6. Double-Treble Crochet]
DOUBLE-TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 6.) Having a stitch on the needle, take
up the thread twice, or put it twice over the needle, insert hook in
work, take up thread and draw through, making four stitches to be worked
off; (take up thread and draw through two) three times. The abbreviation
of double-treble crochet is d t c.
[Illustration: Figure 7. Triple-Treble Crochet]
TRIPLE-TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 7.) Take up thread three times, insert
hook in work, take up thread and draw through, making five stitches on
needle; work these off two at a time, as in double treble. The
abbreviation is t t c.
One sometimes has occasion to use other extra-long stitches, such as
quadruple crochet (over four times before insertion of hook in work),
quintuple crochet (over five times), and so on, which are worked off two
at a time, exactly as in treble or double treble. In turning, one
chain-stitch corresponds to a double, two chain-stitches to a half or
short treble, three chain to a treble, four to a double treble, five to
a triple treble, and so on, adding one chain for each extra "draw."
PARENTHESES () AND ASTERISKS OR STARS * * are used to prevent the
necessity of repetition and save space. They indicate repeats of like
directions. Thus: (Chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next) three times is
equivalent to chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1
treble in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next; or to * chain 3, miss
3, 1 treble in next, repeat from * twice.
The worker should be careful in the selection of a hook. It should be
well made and smooth, and of a size to carry the wool smoothly, without
catching in and roughening it. If too large, on the other hand, the work
is apt to be sleazy. Needles that have been used for some time work more
easily than new ones. If all makes of crochet-needles were numbered in
the same way the size might be easily designated; but it happens that no
two manufacturers use like numbers for the same sizes, hence the rule
given is the best that can be.
Crocheted Jacket
[Illustration: Crochet Jacket]
One color or two may be used for making this pretty jacket, which is
extremely modish, and very comfortable for the cool days and evenings
sure to be experienced during summer outings. Six skeins of fourfold
Germantown will be sufficient; or four skeins of one color for the body
and two of white for the border, if made in two colors.
Make a chain of 54 stitches, turn.
1. Miss 3, a double in next, * chain 1, miss 1, 1 double in next; repeat
from * across, making 26 doubles; turn.
2. Chain 2, a double under 1 chain, * chain 1, a double under next 1
chain; repeat across, turn.
Repeat 2d row until you have completed a strip 22 inches long, for the
back, bringing the work to the shoulder.
Now work back and forth for one shoulder and front, repeating 2d row
until you have made 9 doubles; turn, chain 2, and repeat until you have
made 4 rows.
In the next row widen by making 2 doubles, 1 chain between, in center of
row, finishing row as usual; widen in the center of every 8th row until
you have 15 doubles in the row, then continue without widening until the
front is of the same length as the back.
Leave 8 doubles for back of neck and on the remaining 9 doubles work the
other front to correspond.