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Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet
[Illustration]
Published by
Needlecraft Publishing Company
Augusta, Maine
1918
* * * * *
[Illustration: Handbook of Crochet]
_You can crochet the most fascinating things imaginable if you have this_
Handbook of Crochet
By Emma Chalmers Monroe
This book is equally appreciated by beginner or expert. It contains most
valuable information and instructions for everyone who crochets or
wishes to learn to do this beautiful work. It embodies a very careful
selection of designs; and, from the simplest to the most ornate, every
successive step is explained and illustrated so fully that perfect
results are a certainty.
It describes the making of the newest designs for the ever popular use
of crochet and gives instructions and patterns for Edgings, Borders,
Scarf-Ends, Insertions, Yokes, Lunch-Sets, Doilies, etc.
The book has twenty-eight pages (size 7×10 inches) and 44 illustrations.
It is printed on a fine quality of paper with the cover in colors.
Your copy of Emma Chalmers Monroe's Handbook of Crochet will be sent
you, prepaid, upon receipt of 12 cents, stamps or coin. It can be
obtained only from us.
Needlecraft
Augusta--Maine
Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet
A Lesson in Knitting
[Illustration: Figure 1. Casting on with Two Needles]
The first thing to be done in knitting is to cast on or, as it is
sometimes called, to "set up the foundation." (Figure 1). There are
several methods for this, the following being that preferred and
generally used by the writer: Leave a spare end of thread, sufficient
for the number of stitches you wish to cast on, lying toward the left,
the spool or ball from which the working-thread is drawn being at the
right. Lay the thread between the little finger and the third of the
left hand; bring the working-thread across the palm of the hand, around
the thumb and back between the forefinger and second finger; bend the
forefinger over this thread (which passes between it and the second
finger), pass it under the thread which crosses the palm of the hand,
and then draw the forefinger back, or straighten it, which will give you
a loop with crossed threads. Put the needle under the lower part of this
loop, which draws from the ball, bring the working-thread (or
ball-thread) around the point of needle from right to left, as in plain
knitting, draw it back through the loop, slip off the latter, and draw
up the left thread. Then proceed to make the crossed loop and knit it
off in the same way for the next and following stitches. The whole
operation is very simple, although the instructions seem long because
explicit. Take your needle and yarn or thread and follow them through
carefully, and you will very soon master the "crossed casting on."
Another method, preferred by many and practically the same in effect,
except that the edge is not quite so firm, is as follows: Loop the
thread around the left forefinger, holding the spare end between thumb
and second finger, pass the needle upward through the loop, pass the
thread around the point, draw back through the loop, slip off the latter
and pull up the spare thread. By passing the needle under the loop, or
lower thread, instead of through it, bringing it back through, and then
knitting off, you will really get the crossed loop, and many find this
method easier than the first. The thread used in casting on may be
doubled, particularly for beginning a stocking, mitten, or any article
where much wear comes.
Casting on may also be done with two needles, and many like this method
when there are many stitches. Twist a loop around the needle held in the
left hand, bring the end of thread, or spare thread, to the front,
crossing the working-thread to hold it in place--or, if preferred,
simply tie a slip-knot and put the loop on the left needle; insert the
right needle through this loop from left to right, put thread around
point of right needle and draw through the loop, bringing the right
needle again in front of left. Thus far, the process is quite like that
of plain knitting. Keeping the right needle still in the new stitch or
loop, transfer the stitch to the left needle by bringing the latter in
front and putting the point through the loop from front to back, leaving
the right needle in place for the next stitch; the loops are not slipped
off, as in knitting plain, but transferred, so that all are kept on the
needle. A little practise will enable one to cast on thus very rapidly
and evenly.
[Illustration: Figure 2. Knitting Plain]
The plain knitting (Figure 2), is done as follows: Having cast on the
requisite number of stitches, insert the right needle through the front
of left needle from left to right, the right needle passing behind the
left; carry the thread around point of right needle and bring it down
between the two needles, then draw the point of right needle back and
through the stitch, forming the new stitch on right needle and letting
the other slip off the left, pushing down the point of left needle to
facilitate this process; repeat until all the stitches are knitted off
and the row is complete. Where there are edges to be joined, as in
knitting back and fronts of a sweater, it is a good plan to slip the
first stitch of each row.
Right here a suggestion about the method of holding the thread may be of
value: By the first method the thread is carried over the little finger
of right hand, under second and third fingers and over the tip of the
forefinger, which should be held close to the work; it is this finger
which passes the thread over point of right needle for the new stitch.
By another method the thread is carried over the left forefinger, under
second and third and over the little finger, exactly as it is held for
crocheting: insert the right needle through 1st stitch on left needle in
usual way, push it over the thread on left forefinger, and draw this
back through the stitch with the point of right needle. Only the needle
is held in the right hand, and many workers claim that the work is much
more rapidly done.
[Illustration: Figure 3. Purling]
The purl- or seam-stitch (Figure 3) is the exact reverse of plain
knitting, both as to method of work and appearance, being in reality the
wrong side of plain knitting. In the latter the thread is kept at the
back of the work; for purling, bring it to the front between the two
needles. Put the point of right needle through the front of 1st stitch
on left needle from right to left, the right needle being thus brought
in front of the left; pass the thread around the front of right needle
from right to left and back between needles, then push down the point
and draw the loop backward through the stitch, instead of forward, as in
plain knitting, the right needle being thus brought behind the left.
Slip off the old stitch as usual, and take care to return the thread to
its place at the back before beginning to knit plain again.
[Illustration: Figure 4. Garter-Stitch, or Ridge-Stitch]
Garter-stitch, so called (Figure 4) is simply plain knitting back and
forth, which gives the effect of ridges, one row knit, the next purled.
This is a stitch much used for sweaters, and other knitted garments. If
one wishes to have the right side appear as in plain knitting, the 1st
row must be knitted plain, the next purled. Since one is the reverse of
the other, the right side will be plain knitting, the wrong side
purled.
[Illustration: Figure 5. The Double Rib]
The rib-stitch is alternately plain and purled. To knit the single rib,
* knit 1, purl 1; repeat. For double rib, (Figure 5,) * knit 2, purl 2;
repeat; and for triple-rib, * knit 3, purl 3; repeat. Any width of rib
may be made that is liked, always taking care--unless knitting in
rounds, as a wristlet, mitten or stocking--to knit the stitches purled
on the preceding row, and purl the knitted ones. There are a large
variety of fancy patterns made by combining plain knitting and purling,
such as the basket-stitch and others, of even or broken "check."
There are many variations of the simplest stitches; for example, the
common garter-stitch gives a particularly good effect if knitted from
the back. Put the needle in from right to left, through the back part of
the stitch to be knitted; leave the thread behind the needle, then pass
it from right to left over the needle and draw it through the stitch,
allowing the latter to slip off as in plain knitting. In this stitch the
two threads of the loop are crossed, instead of lying side by side as in
plain knitting.
[Illustration: Figure 6. Making "Overs"]
"Overs" (Figure 6) are used in all lace patterns, and many times in
fancy designs for wool knitting. To make an "over" bring the thread
before the needle as if to purl, then knit the next stitch plain as
usual. This brings a loop over the needle, which in the next row is to
be knitted as any stitch, thus increasing the number of stitches in the
row. In case it is not desired to increase the stitches, one must
narrow, by knitting two stitches together, once for every "over." If a
larger hole is wanted, the thread is put twice over the needle, and in
the following one of these loops is knitted, the other purled.
To "purl-narrow," or purl two together, bring the thread to the front as
for purling, then to form the extra stitch, carry the thread back over
the needle and to the front again; then insert the right needle through
two stitches instead of one, and knit them as one stitch. "Fagot" is an
abbreviation frequently used for this.
[Illustration: Figure 7. Binding Off]
To slip and bind, slip 1st stitch from left needle to the right needle,
without knitting it; knit next stitch, then draw the stitch on right
needle over the knitted one, letting it fall between needles. To slip,
narrow and bind, slip first stitch, knit next two together, and draw the
slipped stitch over. To cast off or bind off, (Figure 7,) slip 1st
stitch, knit next, draw slipped stitch over, knit next stitch, draw the
previous knitted stitch over, and continue, taking care that the chain
of stitches thus cast off be neither too tight nor too loose, but just
as elastic as the remainder of the work.
A Sleeveless Sweater
[Illustration: A Sleeveless Sweater]
A sleeveless sweater, as pretty as it is comfortable, requires six
skeins of Shetland floss and a pair of No. 5 amber needles. Pink floss
was chosen for the model, but any preferred color may be substituted.
Cast on 85 stitches; knit in basket-stitch, as follows:
1. * Knit 5, purl 5; repeat across, ending with knit 5.
2. Purl 5, knit 5; repeat across, ending with purl 5.
Repeat these two rows twice, making 6 rows in all; then to change the
check knit 7th row like 2d, 8th like 1st, repeat twice, and again change
the check by repeating from 1st row. Continue until the border is five
checks deep, or 30 rows.
Knit across plain and purl back for 84 rows; narrow 1 stitch each side
every other row, three times, for the armhole, leaving 79 stitches on
your needle, and giving 89 rows from the border. Knit across plain and
purl back for 38 rows; putting these stitches on a large safety-pin for
convenience, knit 31, bind off 17 stitches for neck, and on the
remaining 31 stitches, knit 6 rows back and forth, or 3 ribs, to give
the effect of a seam on the shoulder. Continue the front, knitting
across and purling back, adding a stitch toward the front each time to
make the neck V-shaped, for 38 rows; then add 1 stitch at the armhole,
and next row cast on 8 stitches for underarm. Do not widen further
toward the front, but continue knitting forward and purling back for 85
rows; then make the border of 30 rows, five checks wide, to correspond
with the back, and bind off. Knit the other front to correspond.
Pick up the stitches around armhole, 80 in all, and knit 5, purl 5 for 6
rows, making an edge of checks; bind off. Pick up the stitches on front,
to the center of back of neck, about 175 in all, make a row of checks to
correspond with the arm, and bind; work a border in the same way on
other side of front, and sew neatly at back of neck, also join the
underarm seams, taking care to match the checks of the border perfectly.
For the belt: Cast on 25 stitches, and proceed as directed for the
border until you have the desired length; the belt illustrated is 42
checks long. Across one end crochet 3 chain loops, filling these with
doubles, and sew to the other end three pearl buttons to match. The belt
is caught along the top in the back, giving the short-waisted effect.
Costume for the Winter-Girl
[Illustration: Costume for the Winter-Girl]
Materials: Thirteen skeins of Shetland floss (dark rose was used for the
model, but any preferred color may be substituted), three balls of gray
Angora, one pair each of bone knitting-needles, No. 3 and No. 5, and a
steel crochet-hook, No. 6.
For the sweater: Using No. 5 needles, cast on for the back 100 stitches
(these will measure 20 inches). Knit plain, back and forth (which will
give you ridges or ribs) for 2 inches; then decrease a stitch at each
end of needle every 8th row, to shape the back, until there are 76
stitches on the needle, measuring 15 inches (this is the waistline);
knit on these stitches for 9½ inches from the waistline, then
decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every other row for 3 times, or
until 70 stitches remain, and knit on these stitches until the back
measures 15½ inches from the waistline. Knit 25 stitches off on a
spare needle, bind off 20 stitches for back of neck, and on the other 25
stitches knit one front after the following directions, and the other to
correspond.
Front: Knit in ridges as usual, increasing 1 stitch toward the front
every other row until you have added 6 stitches; cast on 7 stitches more
toward the front, giving 38 stitches on the needle; knit in ridges,
increasing 1 stitch toward armhole every other row until 12 stitches
have been added, then cast on 10 stitches toward the underarm, making 60
stitches on the needle (about 12 inches). Knit on the 60 stitches for
9½ inches, then increase 1 stitch every 8th row toward the underarm-
or side-seam, until the latter is of the same length as that of the
back, including the 2 inches. Do not bind off. Knit other front to
correspond and sew up side-seams.
With a needle pick up 1 stitch from each ridge on front (have an uneven
number of stitches on needle), and on another spare needle pick up the
stitches across the back; on another pick up the stitches of front,
having the same number of stitches on needle; tie a thread in 1st stitch
on needle at bottom of each front, toward the front, which will be the
corner stitch.
1. With bone needles No. 5 start at top of left front, knit 1, * over,
narrow, repeat from * to the corner stitch, over, knit the corner
stitch, again repeat from * to next corner, over, knit corner stitch,
repeat from * until but 1 stitch remains, over, knit last stitch.
2. Knit plain, each "over" forming a stitch to take the place of
narrowed one.
3. Knit to corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over, knit to next
corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over, and knit plain to end of
row.
Repeat 2d and 3d rows until there are 4 ridges or 9 rows from the
beginning.
In next row make the buttonholes thus: Knit 2 stitches from the neck,
bind off 4 stitches for the buttonhole, then knit 13, bind off 4, and
repeat, making 8 buttonholes 13 stitches apart. In next row cast on 4
stitches over where they were bound off, then repeat 2d and 3d rows for
4 more ridges, and bind off.
Sleeves.--Cast on 34 stitches (about 7½ inches); knit in ridges,
casting on 2 stitches at each end of needle every other row until there
are 74 stitches on needle (about 15 inches), knit 1 inch, then decrease
1 stitch at each end of needle every 12th row until there are 56
stitches remaining on needle, knit on these until the sleeves measure 17
inches, or desired length, (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) twice, knit 13
ridges for cuff, then with gray Angora and No. 3 needles knit 7 ridges,
bind off, and sew up sleeves and cuffs.
Collar.--Using the dark rose pick up 84 stitches around neck of sweater
(not the border), knit 30 ridges; do not bind off. With a spare needle
pick up 1 stitch from each ridge on each end of collar; with gray Angora
and No. 3 needles repeat 3d and 2d rows alternately for border until
there are 7 ridges, and bind off.
Pockets.--Cast on 28 stitches; knit in ridges for 4 inches, change to
Angora and No. 3 needles, knit 7 ridges, making a buttonhole in 4th
ridge at center of pocket, bind off and sew the pocket neatly in place
on the sweater. Sew the sleeves in.
Belt.--With dark rose cast on 23 stitches (about 4½ inches), knit in
ridges until the belt is the width of the back at waistline, bind off
and sew in place with two buttons at each side.
Buttons.--With dark rose, chain 3, turn; miss 1 stitch, 8 doubles in
next; 2 doubles in each of 8 doubles; * 2 doubles in 1st double, 1 in
next; repeat from * until the circle is of a size to cover the mold,
work 1 row without widening, slip the mold in, * work around with 1
double in a stitch, miss 1, repeating from last * until closed. If
preferred, a small square may be knitted like the body of the sweater
and used to cover mold.
The skating-cap is 23 inches head-size, and requires three skeins of the
dark-rose floss, two balls of gray Angora wool and 4 steel needles No.
8.
Using the Angora wool, cast on 136 stitches; knit 45 on each of 2
needles and 46 stitches on the 3d, and knit in single rib (knit 1, purl
1) in rounds for 1½ inches, change to the rose floss and knit in
single rib for 1 inch; change to Angora, again knit in single rib for
1½ inches; change to rose floss and knit in single rib until the top
measures 14½ inches, then bind off and draw together, leaving
sufficient opening for the tassel to be sewed in.
Tassel.--Using the rose floss, cut about 40 strands 8 inches long, tie
in the center, fold where tied and tie again below. Sew the tassel at
top of cap.
Scarf.--Materials required are four skeins of dark rose Shetland floss,
two balls of gray Angora wool, and one pair each of No. 3 and No. 5 bone
knitting-needles. With gray Angora wool and No. 3 needles cast on 60
stitches, and knit 7 ridges; change to rose floss and No. 5 needles and
knit 7 ridges, change to Angora wool and No. 3 needles, and again knit 7
ridges, change to rose floss and No. 5 needles and knit for 50 inches,
or length of scarf desired; then, as at beginning, knit 7 ridges of
Angora, 7 ridges of rose and again 7 ridges of Angora; bind off.
Knitted Gloves.--Materials required are three skeins of Shetland floss,
and four steel knitting-needles, No. 12. Use two threads of the floss at
once.
Cast 16 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit in single rib (knit 1, purl
1) for 44 rounds, or until the wrist is as long as desired, then knit 16
rounds plain.
61. Knit to within 4 stitches of end of round, widen 1, knit 4, widen 1.
62, 63, 64, 65. Knit plain.
Repeat the last 5 rounds, increasing 2 stitches every 5th round until
you have 10 stitches between the two widening points, and 58 stitches on
the needles.
To form the thumb, knit 7 stitches on each of 2 needles and cast on 4
stitches between the widening points, thus making 18 stitches on 3
needles.
Knit 22 rounds plain. * Narrow, knit 1; repeat around; knit 1 round
plain; repeat from *. Narrow until the thumb is closed, draw the wool
through, and leave an end to fasten down on the wrong side.
Pick up the 4 stitches cast on at base of thumb, making 48 stitches on
the hand. Knit 15 rounds, then divide the stitches as follows: Slip 24
stitches on one knitting-needle for top of hand starting from the 3d
cast-on stitch at beginning of thumb, and the remaining 24 stitches for
palm of hand on another needle.
First Finger: Knit 6 stitches from top of hand, slip remaining 18
stitches on a safety-pin, also 18 stitches from palm of hand on another
safety-pin, cast on 3 stitches for between fingers, knit remaining 6
from palm of hand, making 15 stitches in all, on these knit 30 rounds,
and finish off as directed for the thumb.
Second Finger: Knit 7 stitches from back of hand, cast on 3 stitches,
knit 6 stitches from palm of hand, and pick up 3 stitches cast on at
base of first finger, making 19 stitches on needle; * knit 1 round
plain; knit to last 2 stitches of round, which will be 2 of the stitches
picked up, narrow; repeat from * twice, and on the 16 stitches remaining
knit 28 rounds more, 34 rounds in all; narrow off like the thumb.
Third Finger: Knit 6 stitches from safety-pin at top of hand, cast on 3
stitches, knit 6 from palm of hand, and pick up 3 stitches at base of
second finger, making 18 stitches in all; knit 1st 6 rounds as directed
for 2d finger, knit 25 more rounds on remaining 15 stitches, and narrow
off as thumb.
Fourth Finger: Knit 5 stitches from back of hand on 1 needle, 6 stitches
from palm on another, pick up 3 stitches at base of 3d finger on 3d
needle, knit 26 rounds on the 14 stitches, then narrow off as the thumb.
These directions are for the left glove. Knit the right glove in same
way to where you divide the stitches for the fingers; then remember that
the palm of the glove must be toward you, the thumb on the right-hand
side. So you would first knit 6 stitches from palm, cast on 3, and knit
7 from back of hand, reversing directions as given for left glove.
Children's Knitted Sets
Set No. 1
[Illustration: Set No. 1]
Hood.--Cast on 80 stitches, and knit back and forth for 70 rows, or 35
ribs; then join the color and knit 6 ribs, and bind off evenly. Sew up
the edge where you cast on for the back of the hood. Fold the border
back its width, and pick up the stitches across end of this and the 6
ribs back of it on the body of hood, then the stitches around neck and
the other side of border, knit 3 ribs, then in next row, knit 4, over,
narrow, and repeat, ending with knit 3. This row forms the holes for the
cord. Knit back plain, knit 3 more ribs and bind off.
The hood may be of any desired size by casting on any number of
stitches, and knitting just half that number of ribs.
Scarf.--Cast on 30 stitches (or 35 for a little wider scarf); knit 14
ribs of blue, 3 of gray, 2 of blue, 1 of gray and 2 of blue; then knit
34 inches of gray, 2 ribs of blue and continue with the other end as at
first, reversing the order. Knot fringe of the two colors in at each
end.
Sweater.--Cast on 60 stitches, and knit 2, purl 2 (or double rib) for
two inches. Knit plain for 100 rows (or 50 ribs, if you knit back and
forth; the model was knitted forward and purled back, to give the work
the appearance of plain knitting on the right side). Cast on 42 stitches
for sleeve, knit back and cast on 42 stitches for the other sleeve; knit
30 rows on this length, then take 65 stitches off on an extra needle,
bind off 14 stitches for neck, and on the remaining 65 stitches work 12
rows; then cast on 13 stitches toward the front and on this length knit
28 rows, bind off 42 stitches for the sleeve, work 18 rows on the
remaining stitches, slip these on an extra needle, work the other front
to correspond, slip all the stitches on one needle, knit until the front
is as long as the back, and finish with the double rib for two inches;
bind off evenly.
Using the color, pick up the stitches at the end of sleeve and knit back
and forth for 12 rows; bind off. Sew up the sleeves and underarm seams
and turn back the cuffs.
For the collar pick up the stitches around the neck, knit 8 rows of
gray, then 6 rows of color, and bind off.
Work around edge of collar and down the front opening with double
crochet, 1 chain between; lace up the front with cord, ends finished
with balls or tassels.
Set No. 2
[Illustration: Set No. 2]
Jacket.--Cast on 52 stitches and knit 60 rows or 30 ribs; cast on 26
stitches for sleeve, knit back and cast on 26 stitches for the other
sleeve. Knit 34 rows, then knit 43 stitches, bind off 18 stitches for
the neck, knit remaining 43 stitches, and on these continue with the
front. Knit 6 rows, then continue knitting back and forth, adding a
stitch at the end of each row toward the front for 22 rows, which will
give 11 extra stitches; knit 6 rows without widening, then bind off 26
stitches, and knit remainder of front to correspond with the back.
Knit the other front in same way, sew up sleeves and underarm seams,
work around the neck with double crochet, in color, 1 chain between, and
around the body of the jacket with shells of three trebles in a stitch,
miss space of two ribs; repeat. With the gray make 2 trebles, picot of 3
chain caught in last treble and 1 treble around neck, and between 1st
and 2d trebles of shells around body of jacket. Finish edge of sleeves
in the same way, and run in cord and balls.
For the Hood.--Cast on 64 stitches, knit 28 ribs, then 2 ribs of color
and 2 of gray; bind off, sew up the back of hood where cast on, finish
around the neck with double crochet, space of 2 chain between, using
color, work the shells around front of hood, and finish with the shells
of gray, as for jacket. Run in the cord, with balls of the two colors of
yarn.
The cords may be done in plain crochet, the ordinary chain or, as
preferred because stronger, knotted by what is called the "fool's
delight" method, although why named thus it is impossible to say. Surely
it seems a very sensible way: Take a length of yarn six times as long as
the cord is wanted; make a slip or half knot at one end and pass the
other end down through it to form a loop, then tie the ends of yarn
together. Hold this knot between thumb and forefinger of one hand, say
the right, with the yarn which pulls through the knot under the same
hand, and the loop which was formed held on the forefinger; hold the
yarn which does not pull in the left hand, pass the forefinger of the
left hand through the loop on right forefinger from front to back, catch
up and pull through the non-pulling or left-hand thread--exactly as you
would make a chain-stitch in crochet--transfer the knot (which ties the
two ends together) to the thumb and forefinger of left hand, keeping the
loop over forefinger, and draw up the pulling yarn. Now the position of
the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the same in the left hand as
formerly in the right. Continue by passing the forefinger of right hand
through the loop, catching up the non-pulling thread and drawing it
through to form the new loop (on right hand again), transfer the knot
and pull up. This is really a sort of double chain, and when one has
learned to make it evenly and well, it will be found superior for bags,
lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring or cord.
A Serviceable Sweater
[Illustration: A Serviceable Sweater]
Use fourfold Germantown zephyr and a pair of No. 5 needles, with one
pair two sizes smaller. As the sizes or numbers of needles vary, and
also do methods of knitting, it is a good plan to work a little block
before beginning the pattern. Cast on, say, 12 stitches, knit across and
purl back, repeating these two rows until you have a square. There
should be 5 stitches to the inch in width, and seven rows should make an
inch in length. If you get less, use larger needles, say No. 6.
It is also a good plan to practise on the pattern a little, so that you
will become familiar with it and can narrow or widen and still keep the
ridge. Cast on any number of stitches divisible by four, with one stitch
over, knit 2, purl 2, until but one stitch remains, and knit that. All
rows are the same, the odd stitch breaking the rib and making a ridge.
When you come to the decreasing later you can tell whether you are
keeping the pattern correct, by watching the knitted stitch, which forms
a sort of chain right on top of the ridge, and must be kept throughout.
Left front: Cast on 65 stitches on the larger needles and knit 12 rows
plain for the band at lower edge.
13. Knit 10 (these stitches are for the plain border up the front), *
purl 2, knit 2, repeat from *, knitting last stitch.
14. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from *, knitting last 10.
Repeat these two rows until you have 110 rows in all.
111. Knit 2, narrow, knit 6; finish row in pattern.
112. In pattern until 9 stitches remain, knit these.
113. Knit 2, narrow, knit 5; continue in pattern.
114. In pattern, knitting last 8 stitches.
115. Knit 2, narrow, knit 4; continue in pattern.
116. Like 114th, knitting 7 at end.
117. Knit 2, narrow, knit 3; continue in pattern.
118. Like 114th, knitting last 6.
119. Knit 2, narrow, knit 2; continue in pattern.
120. Bind off 3, knit in pattern to within 5 stitches of end, knit
these.
121. Knit 2, narrow, knit 1; continue in pattern.
122. Like 120th row, knitting 4 at end.
123. Knit 2, narrow; continue in pattern.
124. Like 120th row, knitting 3 at end.
125, 127, 129. Like 123d row.
126, 128. Bind off 1, knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, knit
these.
130. Knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, knit these.
Continue to work until you have completed the 171st row, doing the odd
rows like the 123d and even rows like 130th, when you should have 23
stitches on the needle. From this point work until you have completed
the 183d row, increasing at beginning of 172d, 176th and 180th rows by
knitting in the back, then in the front of the 2d stitch. You should
then have 20 stitches on the needle. Knit one plain row (the 184th) and
bind off.
Right front: Begin like left front, doing 12 plain rows.
13. Knit 10, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * to end, knitting last
stitch.
14. Knit 2, purl 2, repeat until 11 stitches remain, purl 1, knit 10.
Repeat last two rows until you have 27 rows in all.
28. Knit as usual until you have the 10 border stitches remaining, knit
3, bind off 3, knit 4.
29. Knit 4, cast on 3, knit 3, and continue as usual. This forms the
buttonhole. Make five buttonholes at equal distances apart, and begin
the narrowing for collar in the 11th row, continuing like left front.
Back: Cast on 79 stitches and knit 12 rows plain; then work in the
pattern until you have 120 rows in all, which brings the work to the
armhole.
121. Bind off 2 stitches and knit remainder as usual, taking care to
keep the pattern. Repeat this row seven times, when you will have taken
8 stitches from each side. Knit 48 rows in pattern on the remaining 63
stitches.
177, 178. Knit in pattern until within 7 stitches of the end; turn,
leaving these stitches on left-hand needle without knitting.
179, 180. Knit in pattern to within 13 stitches of the end (including
the 7 stitches previously left), turn.
181, 182. Knit in pattern to within 19 stitches of end, turn.
183. Knit 4, narrow, (knit 5, narrow) twice, knit rest plain, to end of
needle.
184. Knit plain entirely across, and bind off.
Sleeves. Cast on 97 stitches.
1. Knit 40, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 3 times, purl 1, turn.
2. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 4 times, knit 1,
turn.
3. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 5 times, purl 2, knit
1, turn.
4. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 7 times, knit 1,
turn.
5. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 8 times, knit 3,
turn.
6. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 10 times, knit 1,
turn.
7. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 11 times, purl 2,
knit 1, turn.
8. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 13 times, knit 1,
turn.
9. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 14 times, knit 3,
turn.
10. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 16 times, knit 1,
turn.
11. Slip 1 knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 17 times, purl 2,
knit 1, turn.
12. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * until but 7 stitches
remain, turn.
13. Like 12th row, leaving 4 stitches at end.
14. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat to end, knitting last
stitch.
15. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat to end, knitting last
stitch. Continue to knit in pattern, decreasing at beginning and end of
every 8th row until 73 stitches remain, then knit without decreasing
until you have 120 rows, counting from the 15th row.
Take the smaller needles and commence the cuff on the sleeve-stitches as
follows: Slip 1, (narrow, knit 2) 3 times, (narrow, knit 1) 14 times,
narrow, knit 2, to end of row.
Repeat last 3 rows until you end with 2 stitches and bind off.
Pockets.--With the larger needles cast on 23 stitches.
1. Knit 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * across, ending with knit 2.
2. Slip 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat, ending with purl 1, knit 1.
3. Slip 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat, ending with knit 2.
Repeat last two rows until you have 32 rows in pattern, then knit 10
rows plain for top of pocket and bind off.
To make up the coat, first press the border of fronts; stretch into
shape, pin to an ironing-board, cover with a damp cloth and press with a
fairly hot iron until the cloth is dry. This will prevent the coat from
drawing up, as the ribs are inclined to do. For sewing, use a
blunt-pointed needle to avoid splitting the wool. Sew up the side and
shoulder-seams, taking a stitch from each edge and keeping the edges
perfectly even, being careful not to draw the sewing-yarn so tightly as
to pucker the seam in the least. Sew up the sleeves, and place the
sleeve-seam an inch to the front of the side-seam, easing in any fulness
there is around the top. Place the center of collar at center of back
before sewing on; this must be done on right side of coat, and the
collar turned over. Sew on the pockets, matching the ridges, and sew on
five pearl or bone buttons, about three-fourths of an inch in diameter,
to correspond with the buttonholes, placing a small pearl button at the
back of the larger one on wrong side of coat and sewing through both
together.
This coat measures twenty-six inches from shoulder to hem. It may easily
be made longer, if desired, but the model is an excellent one for
ordinary wear, and very "natty," and it has the merit of being quickly
knitted.
As has been suggested, a good way to do, when knitting a sweater in any
stitch, is to have a pattern and work to fit that. First, have a coat
cut from any old cloth, and of any style desired. Seam it up and try it
on, having it fitted nicely, then cut along the seam and take apart.
Fasten the different parts on a smooth surface by means of thumbtacks
and knit to measure, without stretching your work.
Ladies' Sweater
[Illustration: Ladies' Sweater]
This sweater requires five skeins of knitting-worsted, and four balls of
Angora; electric blue for the body of the garment, and gray Angora were
combined in the model, but other colors may be chosen at pleasure. The
work is done in plain knitting, back and forth, with ribbed belt. With
the knitting-worsted and No. 5 needles, cast on 119 stitches for the
back, which will measure about twenty-four inches, and knit 48 ribs, or
96 rows. Next row, * narrow, knit 4; repeat from *. Then change to No.
12 steel needles and do 20 rows in triple rib (knit 3, purl 3) for the
belt. Change to No. 5 needles and knit 20 ribs; then decrease 1 stitch
at end of needle every other row five times. Knit 29 ribs plain, or
without decreasing. Next row, knit 34 stitches, slip them on to a spare
needle, bind off 21 stitches for neck, and on the remaining 34 stitches,
knit 4 ribs; then cast on 30 stitches at the neck, knit 29 ribs,
increase 1 stitch at armhole every other row five times, and knit 22
ribs plain. Change to the steel needles, and work the belt as directed
for the back, (purl 3, knit 3,) starting from front edge. Having
completed the belt--20 rows of triple rib--change to No. 5 needles; *
knit 4, increase 1 stitch, repeat from *. Then knit 48 ribs and bind off
on the wrong side. Knit the other front to correspond, omitting
buttonholes if these are used.
For the sleeve: Working on right side of sweater, pick up 1 stitch on
each rib around the armhole, 72 stitches in all; knit 8 ribs, then
decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every 8th rib, eight times.
Change to steel needles and knit 12 ribs for the wrist; change to the
larger (No. 5) needles, * knit 4, narrow; repeat across, then knit 12
ribs, join the Angora, knit 7 ribs, and bind off.
Collar: Using No. 5 needles and the knitting-worsted, cast on 65
stitches; knit 28 ribs. Join the Angora wool, knit 11 rows, increasing 1
stitch at each end of needle every other row, and bind off. Working on
right side of collar pick up 1 stitch on each rib at the side, knit 11
rows, increasing 1 stitch every other row toward the corner and keeping
the neck edge even, and bind off. Make the other side of collar to
correspond and sew up the mitered corners. The border of Angora wool may
be as much wider as one chooses to make it by adding more rows or ribs.
Two large buttons covered with the knitting-worsted--either knitted or
crocheted--and furnished with a loop sewed on each side, are used to
fasten the belt.
For the buttons: Using a bone hook which will carry the yarn, make a
chain of 3 stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch of chain make 8 doubles; in
next round make 2 doubles in each stitch, working in both veins so there
will be no rib; then make 1 double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, and repeat.
Continue to work around and around until you have a circle which will
cover the button-mold--5 rounds in all were required for top of buttons
used on model, work around without widening, slip in the mold, then *
miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until the cover is closed. If
preferred, knit a tiny square as you did the body of the garment; and
use this to cover the mold, drawing it snugly over, and fastening
underneath. For the loop, make a chain of 30 stitches, turn and make a
double in each stitch; fasten securely beneath the button.
Ladies' Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs
[Illustration: Ladies' Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs]
Use No. 16 steel needles, with Spanish knitting-yarn or worsted. Cast on
57 stitches.
1. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, purl 2,
knit 6; repeat twice.
2. Purl 2, knit 13, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.
3. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 9, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.
4. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 7, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.
5. Same as 4th row.
6. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, purl 2,
take 3 of the 6 stitches off on a separate needle, hold this at back of
work, knit next 3 stitches, then knit the 3 on separate needle; repeat.
Continue in pattern, twisting the "cable" as directed every 6th row,
until the wrist is seven patterns in length. Then carry one cable up
back of hand, with an openwork stripe each side, and knit plain across
palm.
Commence thumb at top of wrist. As the gloves are right and left, care
must be taken in starting the thumb so that both will not be for the
same hand. On the left-hand glove the thumb is started at right of the
stripe, on the right-hand glove at the left of stripe. Begin thumb with
widen, knit 1, widen; knit 3 rows as usual, then widen, knit 3, widen;
continue in this way until you have widened the thumb to 17 stitches.
Put these on 2 needles, on a 3d needle cast on 7 stitches, join and knit
once around, in each of next 3 rounds narrow 1 of the 7 stitches,
arrange the stitches evenly on 3 needles, knit two inches, then narrow
at end of each needle until you have 6 remaining, put these on 2 needles
and bind off.
Continuing with the hand, pick up the 7 stitches cast on at base of
thumb, knit to the base of the little finger, and divide the stitches on
2 needles, or, if more convenient, take them off on a twine. For the
little finger: Take 8 stitches from back needle and 8 from front, and
cast on 6 stitches, knit once around plain, narrow off 1 of the 6
stitches in each of next 5 rounds, knit 2 inches, narrow 1 stitch at end
of each needle until 6 stitches remain, put these on 2 needles and bind
off.
First Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for little finger, knit to
the middle, take 8 stitches from each side next the thumb, cast on 6
stitches for inside of finger, knit once around plain, in next 4 rounds
narrow off 1 of the 6 stitches, knit two and one-half inches, and finish
off as before.
Third Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for first finger, knit
them, knit plain, leaving 9 stitches toward little finger, putting these
on separate needle, 9 stitches from other side, cast on 6 stitches, knit
until you get to those left for little finger, narrow 1 of these and 1
of the 6 each time around for 6 rounds, knit two and one-half inches,
and finish off as directed.
Middle Finger: Pick up the 6 from last finger, knit around plain,
proceed as directed for third finger, knit two and three-fourths inches
plain and finish off.
Knitted Slippers with Ermine Trimming
[Illustration: Knitted Bedroom-Slippers with Ermine Trimming]
Materials required are three skeins fourfold Germantown yarn, two
colors, and one yard of ribbon. Pink and white yarn, with a little
black, and pink ribbon are used for the slippers illustrated.
Cast on 15 stitches with white yarn, using medium-size steel needles.
Knit back and forth until you have a perfect square of white, then join
the color. The square is for the toe of slipper.
Knit back and forth on the 15 stitches until you have a strip long
enough to extend around the sole of slipper and join to the square on
other side, leaving two sides and one corner for the toe.
Darn the white with black; beginning at lower right-hand corner, bring
the needle through the first two ribs and down between next two, miss
three ribs, keeping the long thread on the wrong side, and repeat,
having every other row alternate. This may be done before the strip is
joined to opposite side of square, if more convenient. Sew to the sole,
using strong thread and over-and-over stitches. The strip should be
stretched somewhat during the sewing, in order to make the slipper cling
well to the foot.
For the border: Cast on 10 stitches with white and knit plain, back and
forth, until the strip is long enough to go around the top. Darn with
the black yarn, making three rows, over one rib and under three,
alternating the stitches. Sew to top of slipper, turn back, and put on
the bows.
These slippers are very easily knitted, extremely pretty and may be made
to fit any size of sole. For a larger slipper cast on an additional
number of stitches for the square, which will make the strip
proportionally wider; knit it long enough for the larger sole, and make
the border wider, if desired. A smaller slipper is begun with less
stitches, following the same general directions.
Babies' Long Bootees
[Illustration: Babies' Long Bootees]
Two colors of Saxony, blue and white or pink and white, and two steel
knitting-needles, No. 14, are required for these bootees.
With color, cast on 57 stitches.
1. Knit plain.
2. With white, knit 4, over, knit 3, * slip, narrow and bind, knit 3,
over, knit 1, over, knit 3; repeat from * to end of row.
3. Purl.
Repeat last 2 rows three times; with color knit 2 rows; with white
repeat 2d and 3d rows twice, and again knit 2 rows plain with color and
2 rows plain with white.
With white knit 14 rows of single rib (knit 1, purl 1).
With color knit 2 rows plain; then with white knit 8 rows in single rib;
repeat the last 10 rows, and again knit 2 rows plain, with color.
With white knit 1 row, purl 1 row, alternately, for 4 rows; this gives
the appearance of plain knitting on the right side.
Make a row of spaces in which to run ribbon, thus: Knit 2, * over 3
times, narrow, knit 1; repeat from * to end of row. Purl back, dropping
2 of the "overs."
Again knit forward and purl back for 5 rows; then knit 15 rows in single
rib, completing the leg.
For the instep: Slip 1st 18 stitches on to the needle, join in the
color, knit 21 stitches, turn and knit back. With white knit 1 row and
purl 1 row, alternately, for 6 rows. Repeat last 8 rows three times,
which will give four white stripes and the same of narrow ones, in
color; again knit forward and back with color.
For the slipper or foot, using color, knit off 18 stitches on right-hand
needle, pick up and knit 17 stitches along the side of instep, knit 21
across instep, pick up 17 on other side and knit the 18 stitches on left
needle. Knit back and forth plain for 20 rows and bind off. Sew up the
foot and back of leg, and draw ribbon through the spaces.
These bootees come up well to the knee, and are warm as well as pretty.
The ribbed portions cause them to fit snugly, so they are not likely to
slip down and off the little feet.
Child's Knitted Mittens
[Illustration: Child's Knitted Mittens]
Use Saxony yarn with needles of suitable size, as you knit tight or
loose. No. 17 is a good average size. Cast 18 stitches on each of three
needles.
Knit 2, purl 1; repeat, until the wrist is of length desired, say two
inches.
For the pattern, knit as follows:
1. Purl.
2, 3, 4. Knit 2, purl 1.
These 4 rows are repeated throughout.
Begin to widen for the thumb in the 2d row above the wrist; to widen
pick up a stitch between needles and knit it, knit 1, widen, and
continue in pattern. Knit 2 rows, in pattern, and again widen, knit 3,
widen, across base of thumb. Continue in this way, adding 2 stitches
between the widenings every 3d row, and keeping as closely as possible
to the pattern, until you have 21 stitches across the thumb. Knit around
twice in pattern and take the thumb-stitches off on a strong thread.
Knit around in pattern, and when you come to the thumb cast on 7
stitches, or one third the number widened for the thumb. Continue
knitting the hand to the tip of the little finger, then commence
narrowing. The manner in which this is done depends on the shape of the
hand to be fitted. For an ordinary mitten, narrow every 5th stitch, and
knit 5 times around; then narrow every 4th stitch and knit 4 times
around; every 3d stitch and knit 3 times around; every 2d stitch and
knit twice around; then narrow, knit 1, repeat around, knit once around,
narrow every stitch, draw yarn through, and darn the end neatly and
securely. It is an excellent plan to "run" the tip of a mitten on the
wrong side, as you do the heel of a stocking, since it makes it wear
longer, especially if intended for rough usage. The narrowing of a
child's mitten may begin with every 4th stitch. Also, if the hand is
long and slender, an additional row may be knitted between the widenings
for the thumb.
Take the stitches off the thread on 2 needles, and with the 3d pick up
and knit the stitches across the hand, which were cast on. When knitting
around the first time, narrow once each end of the picked-up stitches.
Even the stitches on the needles, and knit around in pattern until you
reach the base of the nail, then narrow off, beginning with once in 3
stitches. Draw through the last stitches at tip and darn down.
Knee-Cap
[Illustration: Knee-Cap]
Elderly people, or those at all inclined to rheumatic twinges,
appreciate the knee-cap, and a pair of them will make a most acceptable
gift to grandpa or grandma. No. 12 steel needles and Germantown yarn
were used for the model, which may be made more or less heavy, as
desired, by choosing coarser or finer yarn.
Cast 35 stitches upon each of three needles and knit around 30 times in
single rib--that is, knit 1, purl 1, alternately. You are now ready to
begin the gore, which may be done in single rib, like the rest, or in
basket-stitch (or other fancy pattern) as in the model.
Take 26 stitches on one needle, leaving all other stitches idle; take a
stitch from each side every time across until but 42 stitches are left
on both idle needles. Narrow at the end of the busy needle each time
until but 26 stitches are left on the busy needle. Take up 23 stitches
on the selvage at each side, divide the stitches evenly on the three
needles, and you should have the original number of 35 stitches on each
of the needles. Again knit 30 rows in single rib, bind off loosely, and
finish with a simple crocheted border of chain-loops or shells caught
down in every other stitch.
To knit the gore in basket-stitch, * purl 6, knit 2; repeat for 3 rows,
then knit 1 row plain; repeat 1st 3 rows, placing the 2 plain stitches
exactly in the center of the 6 purled stitches of previous rows. This
change, made after each plain row, gives the woven- or basket-effect,
and the pattern is a very pretty one for sweaters.
Wristers or Pulse-Warmers
[Illustration: Wristers or Pulse-Warmers]
Wristers or pulse-warmers, are very comfortable on a cold day, and those
described particularly so, as they fill the sleeve and completely
exclude the wind. Using knitting-worsted, or yarn of any desired size or
quality with needles to correspond, such as would be employed for a
man's knitted sock, cast 18 to 22 stitches on each of 3 needles, and
knit 2, purl 2, alternately, for 35 rows or more, according to length
required. Bind off loosely.
With bone crochet-hook work in straight rows from top to bottom, putting
a treble in every other stitch and 2 chain-stitches between trebles;
after the last treble at the edge chain 2, miss a row and return on the
next.