Thus I went away from my friends somewhat heavy having no other

company but unknowne _Indians_, leaving a pleasant and delightsome

valley behind mee, and seeing nothing before mee but high and steepy

hils and mountaines, and considering that in foure or five dayes I

should see no more gallant Dominicans and of mine own profession. Now

I wished I had the company of my _Melendez_ and other friends, who

were a comfort one to another upon the hills and rocks of _Maquilapa_.

Yet at last I concluded, up _English_ heart and courage, _quondam hæc

meminisse juvabit_. Though the mountaines seemed high afar off, yet

as I travelled on, I found the way lie between them very easie and

passable, and met now and then Requas of mules, which were no little

comfort unto mee to consider, if they being heavily laden could goe

through those Mountaines, my mule that had in mee but a light burden

would easily overcome any danger; it comforted mee also to consider

that there were Townes (though but little ones) where I might rest

every night. The further I went, the better and more open I found the

Rode; Onely the raine and dirt troubled me, which I could not avoid,

it being the end of _September_, or as there they reckon, the end of

winter. The first Town I came to amongst those Mountaines was called

St. _Martin_, a little place of some twenty houses; I went to the house

that belonged to the Franciscan Fryers (who seldome in the yeer came

to that poverty of house and house roome) where I lighted and caused

the _Indians_ to bee called who were appointed to give attendance to

travellers and passengers. I found them very tractable and dutifull,

bidding mee welcome, bringing mee hot water for my Chocolatte, which

I drunke off heartily, and gave unto my _Indians_ of _Izquintenango_,

who refreshed themselves and their mules well for nothing, this being

a custome among those Townes in the Rode to welcome one another

whensoever they come with travellers. I might have had for my supper

any thing that place would afford, but I made choice of a pullet, which

I thought would bee cheapest for the poore _Indians_. I was glad I had

brought with mee a good big Frasco, as they call it, or bottle of

wine, for I began already to find the _Cuchumatlanes_ cooler then the

valley of _Copanabastla_. My bed was made in a little thatched Cobe,

and _Indian_ boyes appointed to sleep in the next room to me, and to be

at hand if in the night I should want any thing. Thus having appointed

what attendance I had need of in the morning to the next Town,

discharging the _Indians_ that had brought me from _Izquintenango_, I

went unto my rest, which I tooke as quietly as if I had been in the

company of my best friends. The next day being accompanied by two

_Indians_, having sent my carriage by another, I tooke my journey

to the next Towne, which is called _Cuchumatlan grande_, because it

standeth on the highest part of those Mountaines, and in the way the

_Indians_ shewed mee the head spring or fountaine of the great River

of _Chiapa_ of the _Indians_, which is the onely remarkable thing in

that Rode. _Cuchumatlan grande_ is a Towne a little bigger then St.

_Martin_, and of _Indians_ very curteous, who are used and beaten to

daily travellers, and so make very much of them. Here I was entertained

as the night before; and found the poore _Indians_ willing to give mee

whatsoever I demanded for my better and safer guiding and conducting

the next day, and that night for my supper what I pleased to call for,

without any pay, but onely writing down my name and expences with the

day and moneth in their common booke of accounts. This are those poore

wretches brought to by the Fryers and commanding Justices, though of

themselves they have no more then a Milpa of Maiz as they terme it, or

a little _Indian_ Wheat Plantation, with as much Chile as will suffice

them for the yeer, and what the Merchants and Travellers give them

voluntarily, which is little enough. From this Town I would not follow

the Rode to the next, which was a long journy of seven or eight leagues

without baiting by the way; and also because I had beene informed at

_Chiapa_ and at _Copanabastla_ of a strange picture of our Lady, which

was amongst these Mountaines in a little Towne of _Indians_ called

_Chiantla_, which in this dayes journy being not above a league out of

my way, I was resolved to see. The wayes were bad, lying out of the

Rode, yet by noon I got to _Chiantla_, which is a Town belonging unto

Mercenarian Fryers, who doubtlesse would not be able to subsist in so

poore a place, had they not invented that loadstone of their picture of

_Mary_, and cried it up for miraculous, to draw people farre and neere,

and all travellers from the Rode to pray unto it, and to leave their

gifts and almes unto them for their prayers and Masses. Such an income

of treasure and riches hath beene from deluded and ignorant soules to

this beggerly Towne, that the Fryers have had wherewith to build a

Cloister able to maintaine foure or five of them. The Church is richly

furnished, but especially the high Altar where the picture standeth

in a Tabernacle with half a dozen curtaines of Silk, Sattin, cloth of

gold, with borders of golden lace before it, wearing a rich Crowne of

gold, thickly beset with Diamonds and other pretious stones. There hang

before it at least a dozen rich lampes of silver; and in the vestry of

the Church are many gownes, Candlestickes of silver, Censers to burn

Frankincense before it, besides rich Copes, Vestments, Ornaments for

the Altar, and hangings for all the Church.

To conclude, here is a treasure hid in the Mountaines; Oh that it could

bee found out to doe the Lord service. I was welcomed to this place

by those Fryers, who were strangers unto mee; my head was filled that

day by them with relations of strange and many miracles or lies, which

they told mee of that picture; but the heavinesse of my head did mee

good in something, for it made mee more drowsie at night and apter

to take good rest. The next day I got into the Rode againe, and went

to the last Town of these _Cuchumatlanes_ called _Chautlan_, where I

stayed all that day and night, and sent before a letter to the Prior of

_Sacapula_ of my going thither the next day. In _Chautlan_ I was very

kindly used by the _Indians_, and liked the Towne the better for the

excellent grapes which there I found, not planted like vineyards, but

growing up in harbours, which shew that if that land were planted, it

would certainly yeeld as good grapes for wine, as any are in _Spain_.

They are carried from that place to _Guatemala_, which stands from it

neer forty leagues, and are sold about the streets for rarities and

great dainties; and well may they, for from _Mexico_ to _Guatemala_

there are none like them. The next morning I made haste to be gone,

that I might come sooner to _Sacapula_, where I was to finde those of

mine owne profession, with whom I knew I might stay and rest a whole

weeke if I pleased. I had not rid above three leagues, when I began

to discover at a low and deep bottome, a pleasant and goodly valley,

laced with a River, whose waters receiving the glorious brightnesse

of _Phoebus_ beames reverberated up to the top of the Mountaine, a

delightsome prospect to the beholders; the more I hasted to that

seeming Paradise, the more did the twinkling and wanton streame invite

mee downe the hill; which I had no sooner descended, but I found in

an harbour by the water side the Prior of _Sacapula_ himselfe with a

good traine of _Indians_ waiting for mee with a cup of Chocolatte. At

the first light I was a little daunted to behold the Prior, who looked

most fearfully with a bladder from his throat swelled almost round his

necke, which hung over his shoulders and brest, and stayed up his chin,

and lifted up his head so, that hee could scarce looke any whither but

up to heaven. In our discourse he told mee that disease had beene upon

him at least ten yeers, and that the water of that River had caused

it in him, and in many others of that Town. This made mee now as much

out of love with the River, as above the hill I had liked the goodly

sight of it, and therefore resolved not to stay so long in that place

as I had thought, lest the waters should marke me for all my life, as

they had done this Prior; whose name was Fryer _John De la Cruz_, a

Biscaine borne, and (like some of that Nation) a little troubled with

the simples, but a good hearted man, humble, and well beloved over

all the Country both by _Spaniards_ and _Indians_. When I came to the

Towne I discovered many men and women with bladders in their throats

like the poore Prior, which made mee almost unwilling to drink there

any Chocolatte made with that water, or eat any thing dressed with it;

untill the Prior did much incourage mee and told mee that it did not

hurt all but onely some, and those who did drink it cold; wherewith I

resolved to stay there foure or five daies, because of the old Priors

importunity, who would faine have had mee continue to live with him,

promising to teach mee the _Indian_ language in a very short time. But

higher matters calling mee to _Guatemala_, I excused my selfe, and

continued there five dayes with much recreation. The Town though it be

not in the generall very rich, yet there are some _Indian_ Merchants

who trade about the country and especially to _Suchutepeques_ where is

the chief store of Cacao, and thereby some of this Towne of _Sacapula_,

have inriched themselves; the rest of the people trade in pots and

pans, which they make of an earth there fit for that purpose. But the

principall Merchandize of this place is salt, which they gather in

the morning from the ground that lyeth neere the River. The aire is

hot, by reason the Town standeth low, and compassed with high hills on

every side. Besides many good fruits which are here, there are Dates

as good as those that come from _Barbary_, and many trees of them in

the Garden belonging to the Cloister. After I had here wearied out the

wearinesse, which I brought in my bones from the _Cuchumatlanes_, I

departed taking my way to _Guatemala_, and from _Sacapula_ I went to a

Town called St. _Andres_, or St. _Andrews_, which standeth six or seven

leagues from _Sacapula_, a great Town, but nothing remarkable in it,

save onely Cotton wooll and Turkies, and about it some rich Estancia's

or Farmes of Cattell, which are commodiously seated here, it being a

plain Champaigne Country. Yet at further end of this plain there is

a Mountaine which discourageth with the sight all such as travell to

_Guatemala_; from St. _Andres_ I prepared my selfe for the next daies

journey, which was of nine long leagues, to a very great Town called

by two names, by some _Sacualpa_, by others Sta. _Maria Zojabah_, to

the which I could not goe without passing over that Mountaine. I sent

word of going to _Zojabah_ the day before (as is the custome there)

that mules and horses might meet mee upon the Mountaine; and the night

before I went to a Rancho (which is a lodge built for travellers to

rest when the journey is long) which stood within a league of the

Mountaine by a River, where with the waters murmur, and refreshing

gales I tooke good rest. In the morning having refreshed my selfe, and

my _Indians_ with Chocolatte I set out to incounter with that proud

Mountaine; and when I came unto it I found it not so hard to overcome,

as I had conceited, the way lying with windings and turnings; But the

higher I mounted the more my eyes were troubled with looking to the

River below, whose rockes were enough to astonish and make a stout

heart tremble. About the middle of the Mountaine the _Indians_ of

_Zojabah_ met with a mule for mee, and another for my carriage in a

narrow passage where the way went wheeling. Here I lighted, whilst the

_Indians_ helped one another to unload and load the mule that came of

refresh. Out of the narrow way the side of the Mountaine was steepy,

and a fearefull precipice of two or three miles to the bottome, almost

bare of trees, here and there one onely growing. My heart was true unto

mee, wishing mee to walke up a foot untill I came unto some broader

passage; but the _Indians_ perceiving my feare told me there was no

danger, assuring mee further that the Mule they had brought was sure,

and had been well used to that mountaine. With their perswasions I

got up, but no sooner was I mounted when the Mule began to play her

prankes and to kick, and to leap out of the way, casting me down and

herselfe, both rouling and tumbling a pace to the rockes and death,

had not a shrub prevented me, and a tree stopped the Mules blind

fury. The _Indians_ cried out, _milagro, milagro_, miracle, miracle,

_Santo, Santo_, a Saint, a Saint, to me so loud as if they would have

had their cry reach to _Rome_ to helpe forward my canonization; for

many such miracles have some been noised at _Rome_, and with further

contribution of mony have been enrolled in the booke and Catalogue of

Saints. Whilst the _Indians_ helped me up and brought the Mule againe

into the way, they did nothing but flatter me with this terme Saint;

which they needed not have done, if as they considered my dangerous

fall and stopping at a shrub (which was by chance, and not by miracle)

they had further considered my passion and hasty wrath (not befitting

a Saint) wherewith I threatned to bast their ribs for deceiving mee

with a yong Mule not well accustomed to the saddle. But all my hasty

words and anger could not discredit me with them, nor lessen their

conceipt of my holinesse and sanctity, who hold the anger and wrath of

a Preist to be the breath of Gods nostrils, and with this their foolish

conceipt of mee, they kneeled before me kissing my hands. The businesse

being further examined, they confessed that they had been mistaken

in the Mules, having sadled for me that which should have carried my

Petaca's, or leatherne chests, which was a young Mule accustomed onely

to carriages, and not to the saddle, and upon that which should have

been sadled they put my carriage. Whilst they unloaded and loaded again

and sadled the right Mule, I walked up the hill about a mile, and

when they overtooke me I got up and rid till I met with my refreshing

harbour and Chocolatte, and many _Indians_ that came to receive me,

among whom it was presently noised that I was a Saint and had wrought

a miracle in the way; with this the rest of the _Indians_ kneeled to

me and kissed my hands, and in the way that we went to the Towne, all

their talk was of my sanctity. I was much vexed at their simplicity,

but the more they saw mee unwilling to accept of that honour, the more

they pressed it upon me. When I came to the Town I told the Frier what

had happened, and what the foolish _Indians_ had conceited; at which he

laughed, and told me that he would warrant me if I staied long in the

Towne, all the men and women would come to kisse my hands and to offer

their gifts unto me. He knew well their qualities, or else had taught

them this superstition with many others; for no sooner had we dined,

but many were gathered to the Church to see the Saint that was come

to their Towne, and that had wrought a miracle in the mountaine as he

came. With this I began to be more troubled then before at the folly of

the simple people, and desired the Fryer to checke and rebuke them, who

by no means would, but rather laughed at it, saying, that in policy we

ought to accept of any honour from the _Indians_, for as long as we had

credit and an opinion of Saints among them, so long we should prevaile

to do any thing with them, yea even to command them and their fortunes

at our pleasure. With this I went downe with the Frier to the Church,

and sate downe with him in a chaire in the Quire, representing the

person of such a Saint as they imagined me to be, though in reality and

truth but a wretched sinner.

No sooner had we taken up our places, when the _Indians_, men, women,

and children came up by three and four, or whole families to the Quire,

first kneeling down for my blessing, and then kissing my hands, they

began to speake to me in their _Indian_ complements to this purpose,

that their Town was happy and doubtlesse blessed from heaven by my

coming into it, and that they hoped their soules should be much the

better if they might partake of my praiers to God for them. And for

this purpose some offered unto me money, some hony, some egs, some

little mantles, some Plantins, and other fruits, some fowles, and

some Turkeys. The Frier that sate by me I perceived was overjoyed

with this, for he knew I was to be gone, and would leave unto him all

those offerings. I desired him to make answer unto the _Indians_ in

my behalfe, excusing me as not well versed in their language (yet the

fooles if they thought and judged me to be a Saint, might have expected

from me also the gift of tongues) which he did telling them that I

had been but a while in that Country, and though I understood part

of their language, yet could not speake nor pronounce it perfectly,

and therefore from me he did give them hearty thankes for the great

love they had shewed unto an Ambassadour of God, witnessing it with so

many sorts of offerings, which assuredly should remind him and mee of

our offerings for them, in our praiers and hearty recommendations of

them and their children unto God. Thus was that ceremony ended, the

_Indians_ dismissed, and the Frier and I went up to a chamber, where

he began to tell his egs and fowles and to dispose of some of them for

our supper; he told me he would take them, but at my departure would

give me somewhat for them; he bad me keep what money they had given

me, and told me I was welcome unto him, and no burdensome guesse, but

very profitable, who had brought with me store of provision for my

selfe and for him many daies after. The money I received came to fourty

Rials, besides twenty which he gave me for the other offerings, which

might be worth fourty more; all this I got for having a fall from a

Mule, and for not breaking my necke. I would faine have departed the

next morning, but _John Vidall_ (so was the Frier named) would not

permit me, for that the next journey was of at least ten leagues, and

therefore he would have me rest my selfe the next day.

This Towne of _Zojabah_, or _Sacualpa_ is the biggest and fairest of

all the Towns that belong unto the Priory of _Sacapula_; the _Indians_

are rich, and make of their Cotton-wool many mantles, they have plenty

of hony, and great flocks of goats and kids; but here, nor in all the

Townes behind there is no wheat, save only _Indian_ Maiz. The next day

some small offerings fell unto mee, but nothing like the day before;

and so I told the Frier, that now the peoples devotion was decaied,

I would bee gone in the morning before day. That night the chiefe

_Indians_ of the Towne came to offer their service and attendance upon

me to a Rancho or lodge that standeth in the middle way; but I would

not accept of the great ones, but desired that I might have three

onely of the meaner sort to guide mee till I met with company from

the Towne whither I was going, and whither I had sent warning of my

comming. The time appointed was three of the clock in the morning; at

which houre after a little sleep I was called, and having drunke my

Chocolatte, and eat a maple bread with a little conserve, I prepared

my selfe for my journey, and found the _Indians_ ready waiting for

me in the yard, with pieces of pine-wood, which burn like torches,

and with which they use to travell in the night, and to shew the way

to him whom they guide. A little from the Towne wee had some craggy

wayes, which indeed had need of lights, but afterwards we came into a

plaine champaigne Countrey, which continued till within a league of

the middle way lodge; to the which we were to descend a steep hill.

When we came thither (which was about seven in the morning) we found

our fresh supply waiting for us, who had set out from their Towne at

midnight to meet us (note the _Indians_ subjection to their Preists

command) and had made us a fire, and warmed water for our Chocolatte.

Which whilst I was drinking, the _Indians_ of _Zojabah_, who had

guided me thither, gave notice to those that came to receive from _St.

Martin_ (so was the Towne called whither I was that day minded) of my

miracle and sanctity, wishing them to reverence and respect me in the

way. But not for this their foolish report did I make the _Indians_ of

_Zojabah_ drinke every one a cup of Chocolatte, and so dismissed them;

and took forwards my journey to _St. Martin_. Most of the way was hilly

and craggy till we came within two miles of the Towne; to the which

we arrived by noone. This Towne is cold, standing high, yet pleasant

for the prospect almost to _Guatemala_; here, and in most of the Towns

about it is most excellent wheat. The hony of this Towne is the best

in the Countrey; but above all it furnisheth _Guatemala_ with Quailes,

Partridges, and Rabbits. It is the first Towne wee enter into belonging

to the City and command of _Guatemala_; which did not a little comfort

me, that now I wanted but one good journey to make an end of my long,

tedious and wearisome travelling. The Frier of this Towne named _Thomas

de la Cruz_ belonged unto the Dominican Cloister of _Guatemala_; he

was a Criolian, but yet he entertained me very lovingly. I staied

with him but that night. And in the morning (though I might have gone

to dinner to _Guatemala_) I would needs goe by the way to one of the

biggest Townes in that Countrey, called _Chimaltenango_, standing in

an open valley three leagues from the City, consisting of a thousand

house-keepers, and rich _Indians_ who trade much about the Countrey.

In this Towne in my time there was one _Indian_, who alone had

bestowed upon the Church five thousand duckates. The Church yeelds

to none in the City of _Guatemala_, and in musick it exceeds most

about the Country. The chief feast of _Chimaltenango_ is upon the

26. day of _July_, (which they call St. _Annes_ day) and then is the

richest faire that ever my eyes beheld in those parts of all sorts of

Merchants and Merchandize; It is further set forth with Bull-baiting,

Horse-racing, Stage-playes, Maskes, dances, Musick, and all this

gallantly performed by the _Indians_ of the Town. The Fryer of this

Town was a Dominican, belonging to the Cloister of the Dominicans of

_Guatemala_, named _Alonso Hidalgo_, a foure eyed old man, for hee

alwaies wore spectacles. Hee was a _Spaniard_ borne, but having beene

brought up in that Country from his youth, and having taken his habit

and vowes in _Guatemala_ amongst the Criolians, hee degenerated from

his birth and Country-men, hating all such as came from _Spain_. Hee

was a deadly enemy to the Provinciall (ayming indeed himselfe to bee

Provinciall with the favour of the Criolians) and so I perceived hee

would have picked a quarrell with mee, whilst I was with him; hee told

mee I was welcome, though hee had little reason to bid any welcome

that had come from _Spain_, who hee thought came but to supplant those

that had been born and brought up there in their own Country, and that

for ought hee knew, I learning the language of those _Indians_ might

one day dispossesse him of that Towne, wherein hee had continued above

ten yeers; hee envied much against the Provinciall and Fryer _John

Baptist_ the Prior of _Guatemala_, whom hee knew to bee my friend;

But to all this I answered not a word, respecting his grave and old

age, and Crystall spectacles. At last he told mee that hee had heard

say, that the _Indians_ of _Zojabah_ had cried mee up for a Saint,

which hee could not beleeve of any that came from _Spain_, much lesse

of mee that came from _England_ a countrey of hereticks; but hee

feared rather that I might come as a spie, to view the riches of that

their Country, and betray them hereafter to _England_; and that in

_Guatemala_ there were many rich pieces, especially a picture of our

Lady, and a lampe in the Cloister of the Dominicans, which he doubted

not but I would bee carefull to pry into. But all this I put up with a

jest, saying, that I would bee sure to take notice first of the riches

of his chamber in pictures, hangings, and rich Cabinets, and that if

the _English_ came thither in my time, I would surely conduct them

to it; and if hee himselfe would but cause a set of teeth of silver

to bee set in his gums and jawes in stead of those leaden ones, (for

hee was so old that hee had lost all his teeth, and had got some of

lead in their stead) then surely I would also conduct the _English_

to him as to a rich prize for his teeth, and that I would warrant him

hee should bee well used for his outward and inward riches; and that

this my counsell might bee profitable and of consequence to him, I

told him; for if the _English_ should come, certainly they would try

of what metall his teeth were made, thinking that they might bee of

some rare and exquisite substance found onely in that Country, and so

might cause him to drink such hot and scalding broth, (to try whether

they were lead) as might melt them in his mouth, and make the melted

lead runne downe his throat, which if they were of silver, they would

not doe. Hee perceived I jeared him, and so hee let mee alone; I was

glad I had put him out of his former byas of rayling; so dinner being

ended, I told him I would not stay supper, but goe to _Guatemala_

to a light supper in the Cloister, for that hee had given mee such

a dinner, as I feared I should not have digested it in few daies. I

desired him to let me have _Indians_ to guide me to _Guatemala_, which

he willingly performed, peradventure fearing that if I stayed supper

with him, I should melt the teeth in his mouth with some scalding cup

of my Chocolatte brought from _Chiapa_, or that in the night I should

rifle or plunder his chamber of his rich Idols and Ebony Cabinets.

The _Indians_ being come, I made hast to be gone from that four eyed

beast, being now desirous of a constant rest in _Guatemala_. Within a

league from this Town of _Chimaltenango_, the Rode way leaving that

open, wide, and spatious valley, contracts and gathereth in it selfe

between hils and mountaines standing on each side, and so continueth

to the City. From this Valley unto _Guatemala_, neither is there any

ascent or descent but a plaine, broad and sandy way. The eye hath much

to view, though compassed with Mountaines, in these two last leagues;

for yet it may behold a Town of _Indians_ which taketh up most of the

way, and is counted as big as _Chimaltenango_, if not bigger, the

houses lying scattered with a distance one from another, mingled with

many fair buildings of _Spaniards_, who resort much thither from the

City for their recreation. This Town is called _Xocotenango_, of a

fruit named Xocotte, which is most plentifull there, and all about the

Country; it is fresh and cooling, of a yellow colour when ripe, and

of two sorts, some sweet, and others sowre, of the stones whereof the

_Indians_ make a fire; they lie so thick in the way, dropping from the

trees for want of gathering and spending them all, that the _Spaniards_

have begun to practise the buying of Hogs on purpose to let them runne

about that high way, finding that they fat as speedily and as well with

those plummes, as our Hogs doe in _England_ with Akorns. All this way

are also many faire gardens, which supply the Markets of _Guatemala_

with herbs, roots, fruits, and flowers all the yeer. There are further

in this Rode three water mills for the corn of the City, whereof the

chief and the richest belongs to the Dominican Fryers of _Guatemala_,

who keep there a Fryer constantly with three or foure Blackmores to doe

and oversee the worke; What will not those Fryers doe to satisfie their

covetous mindes? Even dusty Millars they will become to get wealth. The

Frontispice of the Church of this Town is judged one of the best pieces

of worke thereabouts; the high Altar within is also rich and stately,

being all daubed with gold. I made no stay in this place, because I

knew I should have many occasions after my setling in the City to come

unto it. And thus keeping between the hils I continued on my journey

till I came to _Guatemala_, whose Dominions, riches and greatnesse the

following chapter shall largely shew.

CHAP. XVIII.

_Describing the Dominions, Government, Riches, and greatnesse of the

City of_ Guatemala, _and Country belonging unto it._

I had not rid on above a mile from the Church of _Xocotenango_, when

the hils and Mountaines seemed to depart one from another, leaving

a more spatious object for the eye to behold, and a wider Valley

to wander in. The fame of that City from _Mexico_ and _Chiapa_ had

raised up my thoughts to conceit of some strong walls, Towers, Forts

or Bulwarks to keep out an aspiring or attempting enemy; But when I

came neere and least thought of it, I found my self in it without

entring through walls, or gates, or passing over any bridge, or finding

any watch or guard to examine who I was; but passing by a new built

Church, standing neere a place of dunghils, where were none but mean

houses, some thatched, and some tyled, and asking what Town that was,

answer was made me that it was the City of _Guatemala_, and that

that, being called St. _Sebastian_, was the onely Parish Church of

the City. With this my high conceiting thoughts stooped down to think

of some second _Chiapa_; till having continued on a while by houses

on my right hand and dunghils on my left, I came to a broader street

having houses on each side, which seemed to promise a City at hand.

At my first turning I discovered a proud and stately Cloister, which

was the place of rest to my wearied body. I surrounded it to finde out

the back gate, and there lighted, and enquired for the Prior, who bad

me very welcome, assuring me that for the Provincials sake, I should

want no incouragement, and that hee would doe for mee much more then

what the Provinciall had signified unto him by Letters. He told mee hee

had beene brought up in _Spain_, in the Country of _Asturias_, where

many _English_ ships did use to come, and having seen there many of

my Nation, he affected them very much, and to mee as one of so good

a Nation, and as a stranger and Pilgrime out of my owne Country, hee

would shew all the favour that the utmost of his power would afford.

How glad was I, to find in him so contrary an opinion to that of foure

eyed _Hidalgo_? And how did he performe his words? He was the chief

Master and Reader of Divinity in the University, his name Master

_Jacintho de Cabannas_, who finding mee desirous to follow the Schools,

and especially to hear from him some lessons of Theologie, within the

first quarter of yeer, that I had been his constant and attentive

Auditor, graced mee with a publick act of conclusions of Divinity,

which I was to defend under his direction and moderation in the face

of the whole University and Assembly of Doctors and Divines, against

the Tenents of _Scotus_ and _Suarez_. But the principall and head

conclusion was concerning the birth of the Virgin _Mary_, whom both

Jesuites, _Suarez_ and Franciscans, and Scotists hold to have beene

borne without Originall sinne, or any guilt or staine of it, against

whose fond, foolish and ungrounded fancies, I publickly defended

with _Thomas Aquinas_, and all Thomists, that shee (as well as all

_Adams_ posterity) was borne in Originall sin. It was an act, the like

whereof had not been so controverted in that University with arguments

in _contra_, and their answers and solutions, and with reasons and

arguments in _pro_ many yeers before. The Jesuites stamped with their

feet, clapt with their hands, railed with their tongues, and condemned

it with their mouths for a heresie, saying, that in _England_, where

were hereticks, such an opinion concerning Christs mother might bee

held, and defended by mee who had my birth among hereticks, but that

Master _Cabannas_ borne among _Spaniards_, and brought up in their

Universities, and being the chief Reader in that famous Academy should

maintaine such an opinion, they could not but much marvaile and wonder

at it. But with patience I told them, that strong reasons, and the

further authority of many learned _Thomist_ Divines should satisfie

their vaine and clamorous wondring. The Act was ended, and though with

Jesuites I could get no credit, yet with the Dominicans, and with

Master _Cabannas_, I got so much that I never after lost it for the

space of almost twelve yeers; but was still honored by the meanes of

this _Cabannas_ and Fryer _John Baptist_ the Prior of _Chiapa_ (who

at Christmas ensuing was made Prior of _Guatemala_) with honors and

preferments as great as ever stranger was living among _Spaniards_.

These two above named being at Candlemas or beginning of _February_

that same yeer at _Chiapa_, at the election of a new Provinciall, would

not forget mee their poorest friend stil abiding in _Guatemala_, but

remembring that the University (which belonged chiefly to the Cloister)

at Michaelmas would want a new Reader or Master of Arts to begin with

Logick, continue through the eight bookes of Physicks, and to end with

the Metaphysicks, propounded mee to the new elected Provinciall (whose

name was Fryer _John Ximeno_) and to the whole Chapter and Conventicle

of the Province for Reader of Arts in _Guatemala_ the Michaelmas next

ensuing. Their suit for me was so earnest and their authority so great

that nothing could bee denied them, and so they brought unto mee from

the Provinciall Chapter these insuing Letters Patents, from Fryer _John

Ximeno_, whose form and manner I thought fit here to insert out of the

Original in _Spanish_ (which to this day abideth with me) for curiosity

and satisfaction of my Reader.

_Fray Juan Ximeno Predicador General y Prior Provincial desta

Provincia de San Vicente de Chiapa y Guatemala, Orden de Predicadores.

Por quanto nuestro Convento de Sancto Domingo de Guatemala carece de

Lector de Artes. Por la presente Instituyo y doy por Lector Al Padre

fray Thomas de Sancta Maria_ (so was my Name then, and by this name

will some _Spaniards_ know mee, who may chance hereafter to read this,

and curse mee) _por la satisfaccion que tengo de su sufficiencia. Y

mando al Pe. Prior del dicho nuestro Convento, le ponga en possession

del tal Officio. Y para mayor merito de obediencia le mando in virtute

Spiritu sancti, et sanctæ obedientiæ, et sub præcepto formali; In

nomine Patris, et Filii et Spiritus sancti. Amen. Fecho en este

nuestro Convento de Chiapa la Real en nueve de Febrero de_ 1627. _Y la

mande sellar con sello mayor de nuistro officio._

Fray Juan _or_ Ximeno Plis.

Por Mandado de Nostro Rdo. Padre, Fray Juan de Sto. Domingo Noto.

_Notifique esta Patente a el Contenido, en_ 12 _dias del mes de Abril

de_ 1627. Fray Juan Baptista Por.

This Form according to the Originall in _Spanish_ is thus in _English_,

and to this purpose.

Fryer _John Ximeno_ Preacher Generall, and Prior Provinciall of this

Province of Saint _Vincent_ of _Chiapa_ and _Guatemala_, Order of

Preachers. Whereas our Convent of Saint _Dominick_ of _Guatemala_

wanteth and stands in need of a Reader of Arts: By these presents I

doe institute, name and appoint for Reader Fryer _Thomas_ of Saint

_Mary_, for the great satisfaction which I have of his sufficiency.

And I command the Prior of the foresaid our Convent, that hee put him

into full possession and enjoyment of the said Office. And for the

greater merit of obedience I command him (our forenamed Reader,) by

vertue of the Holy Ghost, and of holy obedience, and under a formall

precept, In the Name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy

Ghost, Amen. Dated in this our Convent of _Chiapa_ the Royall, the

ninth of _February_, 1627. And I commanded these to bee sealed with

the great Seale of our Office.

_Fryer John or Ximeno Pal._

_By the command of our Reverend Father Fryer John of St. Dominick.

Notary._

_I notified these Letters, Patents, unto the contained in them the_

12. _day of the moneth of_ Aprill. 1627.

_Fryer John Baptist. Por._

This honour conferred upon mee a stranger, and new commer to the

Province, made the Criolian party and some others (who had aymed at

that place and preferment in the University) to stomack mee. But to

mee it was a spurre to stir and prick mee on to a more eager pursuit

of learning, to frequent the _Academy_ lessons with more care and

diligence; and to spend my selfe and time, day and night, more in

studying, that so I might performe with like honour that which was

laid upon mee, and answer the expectation of my best and forwardest

friends. Three yeers I continued in this Convent and City in obedience

to the forecited Patents; oftentimes I thought within my self that the

honour of my _English_ Nation here lay upon me in _Guatemala_, in not

suffering any _Spaniard_ to goe beyond mee, or to outbrave mee with

gallant, witty and well seeming arguments; and so many times I would

at nine of the clock at night, when others were gone to bed, take in

my chamber a cup of hot Chocolatte, that with it I might banish sleep

from mine eyes, and might the better continue in my study till one or

two in the morning, being bound to awake and bee up again by six. I was

loath in these three yeers to take upon mee any other of such charges

which are common in such Convents; but especially to preach much, and

to hear the Confessions of such both men and women as resorted to the

Church of that Cloister, lest hereby my studies might bee hindered, and

time spent in other waies. Yet the Prior and Master _Cabannas_ would

often bee very importunate with mee, to obtaine the Bishops License

for hearing of Confessions, and Preaching abroad in the City and

Country (for in the Church of that Cloister I might and did sometimes,

though seldome preach with Permission of the Provinciall) but this I

strongly refused, untill such time as the Provinciall himselfe came

to _Guatemala_, who hearing me once Preach, would by all meanes have

mee further licensed and authorised from the Bishop, that so I might

not bee straitned within the Cloisters limits, but abroad in other

Churches might freely Preach, and thereby get some money for the better

furnishing my selfe with Bookes. Hee therefore commanded mee to bee

examined by five examiners all able Divines, for the space of three

houres (as is the custome of that Order) and having three houres stood

under their hard and rigid questions and examination, having also at

the end obtained their approbation, then the Provinciall presented mee

unto the Bishop with these words following, being taken out of the

Originall yet abiding with mee.

_Fray Juan Ximeno Predicador General, y Provincial desta Provincia de

San Vicente de Chiapa y Guatemala, Orden de Predicadores, Presento

a Vuestra Sennoria Illustrissima al Padre Fray Thomas de Sancta

Maria, examinado y a provado por cinco examinadores per vota Secreta,

conforme a nuestras Constitutiones, Para que Vuestra Sennoria

Illustrissima se sirva de darle licencia para Confessar y Predicar a

todo genero de Gente en su Obispado, Conforme a la Clementina,_ Dudum

de Sepulturis.

_A Vuestra Sennoria Illustrissima Suplico le aya por Presentado, y se

sirva de dalle la dicha licencia, que en ello recibire merced._

Fray Juan or Ximeno, Palis.

This forme of presentation, used among them, naming the party

presenting, and the party presented, is in English much to this purpose.

Frier _John Ximeno_, Preacher Generall, and Provinciall of this

Province of _St. Vincent_, of _Chiapa_ and _Guatemala_, Order of

Preachers, do present unto your Lordship the father Frier _Thomas_ of

_St. Mary_ (already examined, and approved by five Examiners by secret

Votes, according to our Rule and Constitutions) that your Lordship may

be pleased to grant him licence to heare Confessions, and to preach

to all sorts of people in your Bishoprick, according to that Rule

and Canon of Pope _Clement_, beginning with these words, _Dudum de

Sepulturis_.

I humbly beseech your Lordship, to have him for presented, and to

grant him your foresaid licence, and therein I shall receive great

favour.

_Frier John or Ximeno. Palis._

The Bishop of _Guatemala_ being my great friend, and a well-wisher to

learning and especially to that Universitie, needed not many words of

intreaty, but presently gave me this Licence written on the back-side

of the presentation, and that without any further examination by his

Clergy and part of his Chapter, which hee may and doth use when he

pleaseth.

_Nos el Maestro Don Fray Joan de Sandoval, y, Capata, de la Orden

de San Augustin por la Divina Gracia Obispo de Guatemala y la Vera

Paz, y del Confejo de su Magistad etc. Por la Presente damos licencia

al Padre Fray Thomas de Santa Maria de la orden de Predicadores

Contenido en la Presentacion de su Religion atras Contenida, Para que

en todo este nuestro Obispado pueda Predicar, y Predique la Palabra

de Dios, y para que pueda administrar, y administre el Sacramento

Santo de la Penitentia generalmente a todas las Personas que con el

tubieren Devocion de Confessare (excepto Monias) y a las Personas que

Confessare pueda absolver, y absuelva de todos sus pecados, Crimines

y excessos, excepto de los casos reservados a su santidad, y a Nos

por Direcho. Dada en la Ciudad de Santiago de Guatemala, en quarto de

Diziembre de Mill, y Seyscientos, y veynte y nueve Annos._

El Obispo de Guatemala

Por Mandado del Illmo. mi Senor Pedro Ramirez de Valdes, Secretario.

This forme of licence to preach and heare confessions, from the Bishop

of _Guatemala_, is worth Englishing for some things in it, which I

shall observe with inclosed Parentheses as I goe along for the better

reminding my Reader of them.

Wee (_Bishops in that Church scorne the name of a singular person,

shewing they have the power of all persons joyned together in them, of

rich and poore, of subject and Prince_) Master and Lord Frier _John de

Sandoval y Capata_ of the Order of St. _Augustin_ (_though brought up

in a poore Mendicant Cloister, yet now he takes upon him the Title of

a Lord, and shewes how Prelates in that Church use to Lord it over the

people_) by the Divine Grace Bishop of _Guatemala_ and the _Vera Paz_,

(_he stiles himselfe a Bishop by Divine Grace, whereas he himselfe

acording to the common report of him, as also are most Bishops there

made, was made Bishop not by any Divine Grace, but by unwarranted

Simony and favour from Courtiers, having given many thousand Crownes

for that his Bishopricke_) of his Majesties Councell (_Bishops there

must be Counsellors to Kings, and meddle in Court and Politicke

affaires_) by these Present give licence to Father Frier _Thomas_ of

Saint _Mary_, of the Order of Preachers, contained in the Presentation

from his religious Order on the back-side of this our licence, that

throughout all our Bishopricke he may and doe preach the word of

God (_yet I confesse This word of God is little used in Sermons in

that Church, but rather the words of Saints of theirs and Fathers,

and lying words of miracles, wherewith they stuffe up a whole houres

preaching_) and that he may and doe administer the holy Sacrament

of Penance (_not holy as it came from the mouth of him to whom the

Seraphims cry Holy, Holy, Holy, but as it came from the head of_ Rome,

_who sacrilegiously stiles himselfe Holinesse and most Holy Father.

Not a Sacrament as so left and ordained by Christ, but one of_ Romes

_seven Sacraments, which as it is a City knowne and distinguished by

seven hills, so will that Church be knowne and distinguished from the

true Church by seven Sacraments_) generally to all persons, which

shall have devotion to confesse with him, excepting Nuns (_this Bishop

had in that City one of the six Judges of the Chancery his daughter

a Nun called_ Donna Juana de Maldonado y Paz, _whom he loved dearly,

and much conferred with her in private in the Cloister, whose private

conferences he was jealous they should be knowne in Confession, and

therefore would suffer none to hear Nuns Confessions, but such as were

his most intimate friends, and of whom he had great satisfaction,

alleadging this reason that such as heard Nuns Confessions ought

to be very skilfull and experienced in such waies, and men of age;

for that greater cases of Conscience were to be met with in Nuns

Confessions, than in others. By which reason he unwisely brought an

aspersion upon those Virgins, who should live chastly and holily

as separated from the world and inclosed, and yet it seems by this

Bishops opinion, that within their inclosed walls sins are committed

more grievous then abroad in the wide world, and such as may puzzle

a Ghostly Father if not skillfull and ancient_) and that he may and

doe absolve all persons which shall confesse with him (_if onely God

can pardon and absolve from sinne, Oh how is Gods power arrogated and

taken, yea and abused by those sacrilegious Priests!_) from all their

sins, crimes, and excesses, excepting such cases as are reserved to

his Holinesse, and to us by Canon right. (_A wicked rule and Canon,

a Government certainly most cruell and tyrannicall, that bindes poor

wretches in some cases to goe from_ America _to_ Rome_, at least eight

thousand miles to cleare their Consciences before the Pope, or else

they must die without pardon and absolution from sinne, many having

not meanes to goe thither, nor gifts to bestow upon their Pope, who

must be bribed to absolve them. O how more sweet, comfortable and

safe is it for a heinous sinner and offendour even at home or in the

Church grieving within his heart, and keeping within himselfe, to lift

up a broken heart, and make that poste and flie with wings of Eagles

to the high Throne of Gods grace and mercy, with assured confidence

that there only is pardon, remission and absolution granted to all

such as doe truely and unfeignedly repent of their sins, crimes and

excesses!_) Dated in the City of _St. James of Guatemala_, the fourth

day of _December_, in the yeer of our Lord 1629.

_The Bishop of_ Guatemala.

_By the Command of my most Illustrious Lord_, Peter Ramirez de Valdes.

_Secretary._

Thus with full and ample Commission from the Bishop and the Provinciall

was I setled in _Guatemala_, to read and preach, where, (although I

might have continued many yeers and was offered to read Divinity,

having in part begun it one quarter of a yeere) I continued yet but

three yeers and almost an halfe for the reason I shall shew hereafter.

So what in that time I could observe of that City, and of the Countrey

round about, having had occasions to travaile about it both when I

lived in _Guatemala_, and afterwards when I lived for above seven yeers

in the Countrey Townes, I shall truly and faithfully recommend unto my

Reader. This City of _Guatemala_ (called by the Spaniards _Santiago_,

or _St. James_ of _Guatemala_) is seated in a valley, which is not

above two miles and a halfe broad, for the high mountaines doe keep

it close in; but in length towards the South-sea it continues a wide

and champaigne Countrey, opening it selfe broader a little beyond

that Towne, which to this day is called _la Ciudad Vieja_, or the old

City, standing somewhat above three miles from _Guatemala_. Though the

mountaines on each side doe strongly environ it, and especially on

the East-side seem to hang over it, yet none of them are hinderers to

Travellers, who over them have opened waies easie for man and beasts

though heavily laden with wares of all sorts. The way from _Mexico_,

if taken by the coast of _Soconuzco_, and _Suchutepeques_ comes into

the City North-west-ward, which is a wide, open and sandy rode; if

it be taken by _Chiapa_, it lieth North-east, and entreth into the

City between the mountaines, as before hath been noted. West-ward to

the South-sea the way lieth open through the valley and a champaigne

Countrey. But South or South-East, the entrance is over high and

steepy hils, which is the common Rode from _Comayagua, Nicaragua_,

and the _Golfo dulce_ or sweet Gulfe, where the ships come yeerly

and unlade all the Commodities which are brought from _Spaine_ for

_Guatemala_. This also is the way followed by them who take a journey

meer East-ward from this City. But the chiefest mountaines, which

straighten in this City and valley are two, called Vulcanes, the one

being a Vulcan of water, and the other a Vulcan or mountain of fire,

termed so by the _Spaniards_, though very improperly a Vulcan may be

said to containe water, it taking its name from the heathenish God

_Vulcan_, whose profession and imployment chiefly was in fire. These

two famous mountaines stand almost the one over against the other,

on each side of the valley; that of water hanging on the South-side

almost perpendicularly over the City, the other of fire standing lower

from it, more opposite to the old City. That of water is higher then

the other, and yeelds a goodly prospect to the sight, being almost all

the yeer green, and full of _Indian_ Milpa's, which are plantations

of _Indian_ wheat; and in the small and petty Townes which lie some

halfe way up it, some at the foot of it, there are Roses, Lillies,

and other flowers all the yeer long in the gardens, besides Plantins,

Apricockes, and many sorts of sweet and delicate fruits. It is called

by the _Spaniards, el Vulcan del agua_, or the Vulcan of water, because

on the other side of it from _Guatemala_ it springs with many brookes

towards a Towne called Saint _Christopher_, and especially is thought

to preserve and nourish on that side also a great lake of fresh water,

by the Townes called _Amatitlan_ and _Petapa_. But on the side of it

towards _Guatemala_ and the valley it yeelds also so many springs of

sweet and fresh water, as have caused and made a river which runneth

along the valley close by the City, and is that which drives the

water-mills spoken of before in _Xocotenango_. This river was not known

when first the _Spaniards_ conquered that Country; but since, according

to their constant Tradition, the City of _Guatemala_ standing higher

and neerer to the _Vulcan_ in that place and Town which to this day

is called _la Ciudad Vieja_, or the old City, there lived in it then

about the yeer 1534. a Gentlewoman called _Donna Maria de Castilia_,

who having lost her husband in the warres, and that same yeer buried

also all her children, grew so impatient under these her crosses and

afflictions, that impiously she defied God, saying, What can God do

more unto me now then he hath done? he hath done his worst without it

be to take away my life also, which I now regard not. Upon these words

there gushed out of this Vulcan such a flood of water as carried away

this woman with the streame, ruined many of the houses, and caused the

inhabitants to remove to the place where now standeth _Guatemala_.

This is the _Spaniards_ own Tradition, which if true, should be our

example to learne to feare and not to defie God, when his judgements

shew him to us angry and a God that will overcome, when he judgeth.

From that time, and from this their Tradition is the Towne now standing

where first stood _Guatemala_, called _la Ciudad Vieja_, or the old

City, and hath continued a river which before was not knowne, having

its head and spring from this high Vulcan, whose pleasant springs,

gardens, fruits, flowers and every green and flourishing prospect

might be a fair object to a _Martials_ wit, who here would fancie a

new _Parnassus_, find out new steps of flying _Pegasus_, and greet

the Nymphes and nine Sisters with this their never yet discovered and

_American_ habitation. This Vulcan or mountaine is not so pleasing to

the sight (whose height is judged full nine miles unto the top) but

the other which standeth on the other side of the valley opposite unto

it, is unpleasing and more dreadfull to behold, for here are ashes

for beauty, stones and flints for fruits and flowers, baldnesse for

greennesse, barrennesse for fruitfulnesse, for water whisperings and

fountaine murmurs, noise of thunders and roaring of consuming metals,

for running streams, flashings of fire, for tall and mighty trees and

Cedars, Castles of smoak rising in height to out-dare the skie and

firmament, for sweet and odoriferous and fragrant smels, a stink of

fire and brimstone, which are stil in action striving within the bowels

of that ever burning and fiery Vulcan. Thus is _Guatemala_ seated in

the midst of a Paradise on the one side and a hell on the other, yet

never hath this hell broke so loose as to consume that flourishing

City. True it is formerly many yeers agoe it opened a wide mouth on

the top, and breathed out such fiery ashes as filled the houses of

_Guatemala_ and the Country about, and parched all the plants and

fruits, and spued out such stones and rockes which had they fallen upon

the City would have crushed it to pieces, but they fell not farre from

it, but to this day lie about the bottome and sides of it, causing

wonder to those that behold them, and taking away admiration from them

that admire the force and strength of fire and powder in carrying on

a weighty bullet from the mouth of a cannon, whereas here the fire of

this mountaine hath cast up into the aire and tumbled downe to the

bottom of it such rockes as in bignesse exceed a reasonable house, and

which not the strength of any twenty Mules (as hath been tried) have

been able to remove. The fire which flasheth out of the top of this

mountain is sometimes more and sometimes lesse; yet while I lived in

the City, on a certaine time for the space of three or foure dayes

and nights it did so burne that my friend Mr. _Cabannas_ confidently

avouched to mee and others, that standing one night in his window he

had with the light of that fire read a letter, the distance being above

three _English_ miles. The roaring also of this monstrous beast is not

constantly alike, but is greater in the summer time then in the winter,

that is, from _October_ to the end of _April_, then all the rest of the

yeer; for then it seems, the winds entring into those concavities set

the fire on work harder then at other times, and cause the mountaine

to roare and the earth about to quake. There was a time three yeers

before my comming to that City, when the inhabitants expected nothing

but utter ruine and destruction, and durst not abide within their

houses for nine dayes (the earthquakes continuing and increasing more

and more) but made bowers and arbours in the Market place, placing

there their Idoll Saints and Images, especially St. _Sebastian_, whom

they hoped would deliver them from that judgement, and for this purpose

they dayly carried him through the streets in solemn and idolatrous

procession and adoration. But all the while I lived there the noise

within the mountaine, the smoake and flashes of fire without, and the

Summer earth-quakes were such that with the use and custome of them

I never feared any thing, but thought that City the healthiest and

pleasantest place of dwelling that ever I came into in all my travels.

The climate is very temperate, farre exceeding either _Mexico_ or

_Guaxaca_. Neither are the two fore-named Cities better stored with

fruits, herbes for salets, provision of fish, and flesh, Beef, Mutton,

Veale, Kid, Fowles, Turkies, Rabbets, Quailes, Partridges, Pheasants,

and of _Indian_ and _Spanish_ Wheat, then is this City: from the South

Sea (which lyeth in some places not above twelve leagues from it) and

from the Rivers of the South Sea Coast, and from the fresh Lake of

_Amatitlan_ and _Petapa_, and from another Lake lying three or foure

leagues from _Chimalienango_; it is well and plentifully provided for

of fish. But for Beef there is such plenty, that it exceeds all parts

of _America_, without exception, as may be known by the Hydes, which

are sent yeerly to _Spain_ from the country of _Guatemala_, where

they commonly kill their Cattell, more for the game of their Hydes in

_Spain_, then for the goodnesse or fatnesse of the flesh, which though

it bee not to bee compared to our _English_ Beef, yet it is good mans

meat, and so cheap, that in my time it was commonly sold at thirteene

pound and a halfe for half a Riall, the least coyne there, and as much

as three pence here. Though all about this Country there are very great

and spatious Estancia's, or Farmes for breeding onely, even neer to the

_Golfo Dulce_, where the ships ride that come from _Spain_, yet from

_Comayagua_, St. _Salvador_ and _Nicaragua_, is _Guatemala_ stored; But

above all are the great Estancia's in the South Sea Coast or Marsh,

where in my time there was a Grazier that reckoned up going in his

owne Estancia and ground, forty thousand heads of Beasts, small and

great, besides many which are called there Simarrones, or wild Cattell,

which were strayed among the Woods and Mountaines, and could not bee

gathered in with the rest, but were hunted by the Blackmores like wild

Bores, and daily shot to death, least they should too much increase and

doe hurt. My selfe chanced to bee present at the Fair of the Town of

_Petapa_, with a friend named _Lope de Chaves_, (who was as they call

there, Obligado, or charged to provide flesh for six or seven Townes

thereabouts) who at one bargain, and of one man, bought six thousand

head of Cattell, great and small, paying one with another eighteen

Rials, or nine English shillings a head.

The manner and custome of _Guatemala_ for the better providing both

Beef and Mutton for it, and the Country Townes about, is this. Nine

daies before Michaelmas, every day Proclamation is made about the City

for an Obligado, or one that will bee bound to the City and Country for

competent provision of Flesh meat upon forfeiture of such a summe of

money to his Majesty, if hee faile, as shall bee agreed upon between

him and the Court, and to the Inhabitants of the City; if hee fail in

beef, hee is to allow in Mutton so many pounds at the same rate as hee

should have allowed beef. If the Obligado faile in Mutton, hee is to

allow in Fowle flesh, so many pounds and at the same rate as hee was

to allow the Mutton; and this with consideration of the family, what

competent allowance of flesh meat shall bee judged for a day, or the

dayes that the Obligado shall fail. Besides this the Proclamation is

made for whom offers most to his Majesty for one yeers Obligation. So

that sometimes it happeneth that the eight daies severall men come

into the Court, offering more and more, till upon the ninth day and

last Proclamation, the Office is setled for one yeere upon him that

hath offered most unto his Majesty. Thus many Butchers are not allowed

but one onely Obligado, who also is abridged to so many pound for so

much mony, so that if any other besides him offer to kill or sell, he

may follow an action and the Court against him: Thus the Obligado (who

commonly is a monied man) buyeth by the hundred or by the thousand,

as for the present hee findeth the expence of the City, without hee

bee himself such a Grazier, as hath Cattell enough of his owne.

Though Mutton bee not so plentifull as is Beef, yet there never wants

from the Valley of _Mixco, Pinola, Petapa_, and _Amatitlan_, and the

_Marsh_ and other places. In the Valley fore-named I lived, and was

well acquainted with one _Alonso Capata_, who had constantly going

in the Valley four thousand sheep. _Guatemala_ therefore is so well

stored with good provision, plentifull and cheap, that it is hard to

finde in it a begger, for with halfe a Riall the poorest may buy beef

for a weeke, and with a few Cacao's they may have bread of _Indian_

Maiz, if not of _Spanish_ Wheat. This City may consist of about five

thousand families, besides a Suburb of _Indians_ called _el Barrio de

Sto. Domingo_, where may bee two hundred families more. The best part

of the City is that which joyneth to this Suburb of _Indians_, and is

called also _el Barrio Santo de Domingo_, by reason of the Cloister of

Saint _Dominick_ which standeth in it. Here are the richest and best

shops of the City, with the best buildings, most of the houses being

new, and stately. Here is also a dayly Tianguez (as they call it) or

petty Market, where some _Indians_ all the day sit selling fruits,

Herbs, and Cacao, but at the foure in the afternoone, this Market

is filled for a matter of an houre, where the _Indian_ women meet

to sell their Country slap, (which is dainties to the Criolians) as

Atolle, Pinole, scalded Plantins, butter of the Cacao, puddings made

of _Indian_ Maiz, with a bit of Fowle or fresh Porke in them seasoned

with much red biting Chile, which they call Anacatamales. The trading

of the City is great, for by Mules it partakes of the best commodities

of _Mexico, Guaxaca_ and _Chiapa_, and Southward of _Nicaragua_, and

_Costarica_. By Sea it hath commerce with _Peru_, by two Sea Ports and

Havens, the one called _la Villa de la Trinidad_, the Village of the

Trinity, which lyeth Southward from it five and twenty leagues; and by

another called _el Realejo_, which lyeth five or six and forty leagues

from it. It hath traffique with _Spain_ by the North Sea from _Golfo

dulce_, lying threescore leagues from it. It is not so rich as other

Cities, yet for the quantity of it, it yeelds to none. There were in my

time five (besides many other Merchants who were judged worth twenty

thousand Duckats, thirty thousand, fifty thousand, some few a hundred

thousand) who were judged of equall wealth, and generally reported

to bee worth each of them five hundred thousand Duckats; the first

was _Thomas de Siliezer_, a Biscain born, and _Alcalde de Corte_, the

Kings High Justice, or chief Officer at Court; the second was _Antonio

Justiniano_, a _Genovois_ born, and one that bore often Offices in

the City, and had many Tenements and houses, especially a great and

rich Farme for corn and Wheat in the Valley of _Mexico_. The third was

_Pedro de Lira_, born in _Castilia_, the fourth and fifth, _Antonio

Fernandez_, and _Bartolome Nunnez_, both _Portingals_, whereof the

first in my time departed from _Guatemala_ for some reasons which here

I must conceale. The other foure I left there, the three of them living

at that end of the City called _Barrio de Santo Domingo_, or the street

of St. _Dominick_, whose houses and presence makes that street excell

all the rest of the City, and their wealth and trading were enough to

denominate _Guatemala_ a very rich City. The Government of all the

Country about, and of all _Honduras, Soconusco, Comayagua, Nicaragua,

Costa Rica, Vera Paz, Suchutepeques_, and _Chiapa_, is subordinate unto

the Chancery of _Guatemala_; for although every Governour over these

severall Provinces is appointed by the King and Councell of _Spain_,

yet when they come to those parts to the enjoyment of their charge and

execution office, then their actions, if unjust, are weighed, judged,

censured, and condemned by the Court residing in the City. This Court

of Chancery consisteth of a President, six Judges, one Kings Attourney,

and two chief Justices of Court. The President, though hee have not

the name and title of Viceroy, as they of _Mexico_ and _Peru_, yet

his power is as great and absolute as theirs. His Pension from the

King is but twelve thousands Duckats a yeer; but besides this, if he

be covetous, hee makes by bribes and trading twice as much more, nay

what hee list, as was seen in the _Count de la Gomera_, President of

that City and Chancery for the space of fourteen yeers, who departed

in old age from _Guatemala_ to _Canaria_ (where was his house and

place of birth) worth Millions of Duckats. After him succeeded _Don

Juan de Guzman_, formerly President of _Santo Domingo_, who losing his

Wife and Lady in the way, lost also his former spirit and courage,

betaking himselfe wholly to his devotions, contemning wealth and

riches, governing with love and mildnesse, which made the rest of the

Judges, who were all for lucre, soone weary him out of his office,

continuing in it but five yeers. His successor (whom I left there when

I came away) was _Don Gonzalo de Paz y Lorencana_, who was promoted

from the Presidency of _Panama_ to that place, and came into it with

such a spirit of covetousnesse as the like had not been seen in any

former President. Hee forbad all gaming in private houses in the City,

which there is much used (though by women not so much as in _Mexico_)

not for that hee hated it, but because hee envied others, what they

got and gained by their Cards, drawing to himselfe thereby all that

gaine, spending sometimes in one night foure and twenty paire of Cards,

appointing a Page to assist at the Tables, and to see the box well paid

for every paire of Cards, which for his, and his Court respect, was

seldome lesse then a crown or two for every paire. Thus did hee lick up

with his Cards most of the gamesters gaines, and would grudge and pick

quarrels with such rich men whom hee knew to affect gaming, if they

frequented not his Court at night time for that bewitching Recreation.

The Pension which the King alloweth to every Judge of Chancery is

foure thousand duckats yeerly, and three thousand to his Attorney,

all which is paid out of the Kings Exchequer abiding in that City. Yet

what besides they get by bribes, and trading is so much, that I have

heard a Judge himselfe _Don Luis de las Infantas_ say, that though a

Judges place at _Mexico_ and _Lima_ be more honourable, yet none more

profitable then _Guatemala_. In my time were such causes at Chancery

tried, as had never been, of murthers, robberies, and oppressions, and

whereas it was expected the offendants some should be hanged, some

banished, some imprisoned, some by fines impoverished, bribes took all

off, so that I never knew one hanged in that City for the space of

above eight yeers. The Churches though they be not so fair and rich as

those of _Mexico_, yet they are for that place wealthy enough. There

is but one Parish Church and a Cathedrall which standeth in the chiefe

Market-place. All the other Churches belong to Cloisters, which are of

Dominicans, Franciscans, Mercenarians, Augustines, and Jesuites, and

two of Nuns, called the Conception and _St. Catharine_. The Dominicans,

Franciscans, and Mercenarians are stately Cloisters, containing neer a

hundred Friers a piece; but above all is the Cloister where I lived, of

the Dominicans, to which is joyned in a great Walk before the Church

the Universitie of the City. The yeerly revenues which come into this

Cloister, what from the _Indian_ Towns belonging to it, what from a

water-mill, what from a farme for corne, what from an Estancia, or

farme for Horses and Mules, what from an Ingenio, or farme of Sugar,

what from a Mine of silver given unto it the yeer 1633. are judged to

be (excepting all charges) at least thirty thousand duckats; wherewith

those fat Friers feast themselves, and have to spare to build, and

enrich their Church and Altars. Besides much treasure belonging to it,

there are two things in it, which the _Spaniards_ in merriment would

often tell me that the _English_ nation did much inquire after, when

they tooke any ship of theirs at sea, and that they feared I was come

to spie them, which were a Lampe of silver hanging before the high

Altar, so big as required the strength of three men to hale it up with

a rope; but the other is of more value; which is a picture of the

Virgin _Mary_ of pure silver, and of the stature of a reasonable tall

woman, which standeth in a Tabernacle made on purpose in a Chappel of

the Rosary with at least a dozen lampes of silver also burning before

it. A hundred thousand duckats might soone be made up of the treasure

belonging to that Church and cloister. Within the walls of the Cloister

there is nothing wanting which may further pleasure and recreation. In

the lower Cloister there is a spatious garden, in the midst whereof is

a fountains casting up the water, and spouting it out of at least a

dozen pipes, which fill two ponds full of fishes, and with this their

constant running give musicke to the whole Cloister, and encouragement

to many water-fowles and Ducks to bath and wash themselves therein. Yet

further within the Cloister, there are other two gardens for fruits

and herbage, and in the one a pond of a quarter of a mile long, all

paved at the bottom, and a low stone wall about, where is a boat for

the Friers recreation, who often goe thither to fish, and doe sometimes

upon a suddaine want or occasion take out from thence as much fish as

will give to the whole Cloister a dinner. The other Cloisters of the

City are also rich; but next to the Dominicans is the Cloister of Nuns,

called the Conception, in which at my time there were judged to live

a thousand women, not all Nuns, but Nuns, and their serving maids or

slaves, and yong children which were brought up and taught to worke by

the Nuns. The Nuns that are professed bring with them their portions,

five hundred duckats the least, some six hundred, some seven, and some

a thousand, which portions after a few yeers (and continuing to the

Cloister after the Nuns decease) come to make up a great yeerly rent.

They that will have maids within to wait on them may, bringing the

bigger portion, or allowing yeerly for their servants diet. In this

Cloister lived that _Donna Juana de Maldonado_ Judge _Juan Maldonado

de Paz_ his daughter, whom the Bishop so much conversed withall. She

was very fair and beautifull, and not much above twenty yeers of age,

and yet his love blinding him, he strove what he could in my time

against all the ancient Nuns and Sisters, to make her Superiour and

Abbesse, and caused such a mutiny and strife in that Cloister, which

was very scandalous to the whole City, and made many rich Merchants

and Gentlemen run to the Cloister with their swords drawne, threatning

to breake in amongst the Nuns to defend their daughters against the

powerfull faction which the Bishop had wrought for _Donna Juana de

Maldonado_: which they had performed if the President _Don Juan de

Guzman_ had not sent _Juan Maldonado de Paz_, the yong Nuns father, to

intreat her to desist in regard of her yong age from her ambitious

thoughts or being Abbesse. With this the mutiny both within and without

ceased, the Bishop got but shame, and his yong Sister continued as

before under command and obedience, to a more religious, grave, and

aged Nun then her selfe. This _Donna Juana de Maldonado y Paz_ was the

wonder of all that Cloister, yea of all the City for her excellent

voice, and skill in musicke, and in carriage, and education yeelded

to none abroad nor within; she was witty, well spoken and above all a

_Calliope_, or Muse for ingenious and suddain verses; which the Bishop

said, so much moved him to delight in her company and conversation. Her

father thought nothing too good, nor too much for her; and therefore

having no other children, he daily conferred upon her riches, as might

best beseem a Nun, as rich and costly Cabinets faced with gold and

silver, pictures and Idols for her chamber with crownes and jewels to

adorne them; which with other presente from the Bishop (who dying in my

time left not wherewith to pay his debts, for that as the report went,

he had spent himselfe and given all unto this Nun) made this _Donna

Juana de Maldonado_ so rich and stately, that at her owne charges shee

built for herselfe a new quarter within the Cloister with roomes and

galleries, and a private garden-walke, and kept at worke and to wait

on her halfe a dozen _Black-more_ maids; but above all she placed

her delight in a private Chappel or Closet to pray in, being hung

with rich hangings, and round about it costly lamina's (as they call

them) or pictures painted upon brasse set in blacke Ebony frames with

corners of gold, some of silver brought to her from _Rome_; her Altar

was accordingly decked with Jewels, Candlesticks, Crownes, Lamps, and

covered with a Canopie embroidered with gold; in her Closet she had

her small organ, and many sorts of musicall instruments, whereupon she

played sometimes by herselfe, sometimes with her best friends of the

Nuns; and here especially she entertained with musicke her beloved the

Bishop. Her Chappel or place of devotion was credibly reported about

the City to be worth at least six thousand Crownes, which was enough

for a Nun that had vowed chastity, poverty, and obedience. But all this

after her decease she was to leave to the Cloister; and doubtlesse with

this State, and riches she would win more and more the hearts of the

common sort of Nuns, till she had made a strong party, which by this

may have made her Abbesse. Thus is ambition and desire of command and

power crept into the walls of Nunneries, like the abominations in the

wall of _Ezekiel_, and hath possessed the hearts of Nuns, which should

be humble, poore, and mortified Virgins.

But besides this one Nun, there are many more, and also Friers, who

are very rich, for if the City be rich (as is this) and great trading

in it, they will be sure to have a share. Great plenty and wealth hath

made the inhabitants as proud and vicious, as are those of _Mexico_.

Here is not onely Idolatry, but Fornication and uncleannesse as

publike as in any place of the _India's_: The _Mulatto's, Black-mores,

Mestica's, Indians_, and all common sort of people are much made on

by the greater and richer sort, and goe as gallantly apparrelled as

doe those of _Mexico_, fearing neither a Vulcan or mountaine of water

on the one side, which they confesse hath once powred out a flood and

river executing Gods wrath against sin there committed; neither a

Vulcan of fire, or mouth of hell on the other side, roaring within and

threatning to raine upon them _Sodoms_ ruine and destruction; neither

the weakness of their habitation; lying wide open on every side,

without walls, or workes, or bulwarkes, to defend them, or without

guns, drakes, bullets, or any Ammunition to scare away an approaching

enemy, who may safely come and without resistance upon them who live as

professed enemies of Jesus Christ. This is the City of _St. James_ or

_Santiago de Guatemala_, the head of a vaste and ample Dominion, which

extendeth it selfe nine hundred miles to _Nicoya_ and _Costa Rica_

South-ward; three hundred miles to _Chiapa_ and _Zoques_ North-ward; a

hundred and fourescore miles to the further parts of _Vera Paz_, and

the _Golfo dulce_ East-ward; and to the South-sea twenty or thirty, in

some places fourty miles West-ward.

From _Tecoantepeque_ (which is no harbour for any great ships) which

standeth from _Guatemala_ at least foure hundred miles, there is no

landing place for ships neerer to this City then is the village _de

la Trinidad_, or of the Trinity. The chiefe commodities which from

along that coast are brought to _Guatemala_, are from the Provinces of

_Soconuzco_ and _Suchutepeques_, which are extreame hot, and subject to

thunder and lightning, where groweth scarce any remarkeable commodity,

save only _Cacao, Achiotte, Mechasuchil, Bainillas_ and other drugs

for Chocolatte, except it be some _Indigo_ and _Cochinil_ about _St.

Antonio_, which is the chiefe and head Town of all the _Suchutepeques_.

But all the coast neer joyning to _Guatemala_, especially about a Towne

called _Izquinta_, or _Izquintepeque_ twelve leagues from _Guatemala_,

is absolutely the richest part of the Dominion of this City; for there

is made the greatest part of the _Indigo_ which is sent from _Honduras_

to _Spaine_, besides the mighty farmes of Cattel which are all along

that marsh. Though the living there be profitable and the soile rich,

yet it is uncomfortable by reason of the great heat, thundrings and

lightnings, especially from _May_ to _Michaelmas_. If _Guatemala_ be

strong (though not in weapons or Ammunition) in people, it is strong

from hence from a desperate sort of _Black-mores_, who are slaves in

those Estancia's and farms of _Indigo_. Though they have no weapons but

a Machette, which is a short Tuck, or lances to run at the wild Cattel,

yet with these they are so desperate, that the City of _Guatemala_

hath often been afraid of them, and the Masters of their owne slaves

and servants. Some of them feare not to encounter a Bull though wild

and mad, and to graple in the rivers (which are many there) with

Crocodiles, or Lagarto's, as there they call them, till they have

overmastered them, and brought them out to land from the water.

This hot, but rich Country runnes on by the Sea side unto the Village

of the Trinity, which (though somewhat dangerous) yet is a haven

for ships from _Panama, Peru_, and _Mexico_; It serves to enrich

_Guatemala_, but not to strengthen it, for it hath neither Fort,

nor Bulwarke, nor Castle, nor any Ammunition to defend it selfe.

Between this Village and the other Haven called _Realejo_, there is a

great Creek from the Sea; where small vessels doe use to come in for

fresh water and Victuals to St. _Miguel_ a Towne of _Spaniards_ and

_Indians_, from whence those that travaile to _Realejo_ passe over in

lesse then a day to a Town of _Indians_ called _La Vieja_, two miles

from _Realejo_, whither the journey by land from St. _Miguel_ is of

at least three daies. But neither this Creeke or Arme of the Sea is

fortified (which might be done with one or two peeces of Ordnance at

most placed at the mouth of the seas entrance) neither is the _Realejo_

strong with any Ammunition, no nor with people, for it consists not

of above two hundred families, and most of them are _Indians_ and

_Mestico's_, a people of no courage, and very unfit to defend such an

open passage to _Guatemala_ and _Nicaragua_, which here begins and

continues in small and petty _Indian_ Townes unto _Leon_ and _Granada_.

On the North side of _Guatemala_ I shall not need to adde to what

hath been said of _Suchutepeques_ and _Soconuzco_, and my journy that

way from _Mexico_ and _Chiapa_. The chiefe side of _Guatemala_ is

that on the East, which points out the way to the Golfe, or _Golfo

dulce_, or as others call it _St. Thomas de Castilia_. This way is

more beaten by Mules and Travellers, then that on the North side,

for that _Mexico_ standeth three hundred leagues from this City, and

the Golfe but threescore, and no such passages as are in some places

in the Rode to _Mexico_. Besides the great trading, commerce, and

traffique, which this City injoyeth by that Golfe from _Spaine_, hath

made that rode exceed all the rest. In _July_ or at furthest in the

beginning of _August_ come into that Golfe three ships, or two, and

frigate, and unlade what they have brought from _Spain_ in _Bodega's_

or great Lodges, built on purpose to keep dry and from the weather the

commodities. They presently make hast to lade againe from _Guatemala_

those Merchants commodities of returne, which peradventure have lien

waiting for them in the _Bodega's_ two or three moneths before the

ships arrivall. So that these three moneths of _July, August_ and

_September_, there is sure to be found a great treasure. And O the

simplicity or security of the _Spaniards_, who appoint no other watch

over these their riches, save only one or two _Indians_ and as many

_Mulatto's_, who commonly are such as have for their misdemeanours

been condemned to live in that old and ruinated Castle of _S. Thomas

de Castilia_! True it is, above it there is a little and ragged Town

of _Indians_, called _S. Pedro_, consisting of some thirty families,

who by reason of the exceeding heat, and unhealthinesse of the air,

are alwaies sickly and scarce able to stand upon their legs. But the

weakenesse of this Golfe within might well bee remedied and supplyed

at the mouth of the sea, or entrance into it by one or two at the

most good peeces of Ordnance placed there. For the entrance into this

Golfe is but as one should come in at the doore of some great Palace,

where although the dore and entrance be narrow, the house within is

wide and capacious. Such is this Golfe, whose entrance is straitned

with two rocks or mountaines on each side (which would well become two

great Peeces, and so scorne a whole fleet, and secure a Kingdome of

_Guatemala_, nay most of all _America_) but here being no watch nor

defence, the ships come freely and safely in (as have done some both

_English_ and _Holland_ ships) and being entred find a rode and harbour

so wide and capacious as may well secure a thousand ships there riding

at anchor, without any thought of feare from _St. Pedro_, or _Santo

Thomas de Castilia_. I have often heard the _Spaniards_ jear and laugh

at the _English_ and _Hollanders_, for that they having come into this

Golfe, have gone away without attempting any thing further upon the

land. Nay while I lived there, the _Hollanders_ set upon _Truxillo_

the head Port of _Comayagua_ and _Honduras_, and tooke it (though

there were some resistance) the people for the most part flying to the

woods, trusting more to their feet then to their hands and weapons

(such cowards is all that Countrey full of) and whilst they might have

fortified themselves there and gone into the Countrey, or fortifying

that have come on to the Golfe (all _Guatemala_ fearing it much and not

being able to resist them) they left _Truxillo_ contenting themselves

with a small pillage, and gave occasion to the _Spaniards_ to rejoyce

and to make processions of thanksgiving for their safe deliverance out

of their enemies hands.

The way from this Golfe to _Guatemala_ is not so bad as some report and

conceive, especially after _Michaelmas_ untill _May_, when the winter

and rain is past and gone, and the winds begin to dry up the waies. For

in the worst of the yeer Mules laden with four hundred waight at least

goe easily thorow the steepest, deepest, and most dangerous passages of

the mountaines that lie about this Golfe. And though the waies are at

that time of the yeer bad, yet they are so beaten with the Mules, and

so wide and open, that one bad step and passage may be avoided for a

better; and the worst of this way continues but fifteen leagues, there

being Rancho's, or Lodges in the way, Cattel and Mules also among the

woods and mountaines, for reliefe and comfort to a weary Traveller.

What the _Spaniards_ most feare untill they come out of these

mountaines, are some two or three hundred _Black-mores, Simarrones_,

who for too much hard usage, have fled away from _Guatemala_ and

other parts from their Masters unto these woods, and there live and

bring up their children and encrease daily, so that all the power of

_Guatemala_, nay all the Countrey about (having often attempted it) is

not able to bring them under subjection. These often come out to the

rode way, and set upon the Requa's of Mules, and take of Wine, Iron,

clothing and weapons from them as much as they need, without doing any

harme unto the people, or slaves that goe with the Mules; but rather

these rejoyce with them, being of one colour, and subject to slavery

and misery which the others have shaken off; by whose example and

encouragement many of these also shake off their misery, and joyne with

them to enjoy libertie, though it be but in the woods and mountaines.

Their weapons are bowes and arrows which they use and carry about

them, onely to defend themselves, if the _Spaniards_ set upon them;

else they use them not against the _Spaniards_, who travell quietly

and give them part of what provision they carry. These have often said

that the chiefe cause of their flying to those mountaines is to be

in a readinesse to joyne with the _English_ or _Hollanders_, if ever

they land in that Golfe; for they know, from them they may injoy that

liberty which the _Spaniards_ will never grant unto them. After the

first fifteen leagues the way is better, and there are little Towns

and villages of _Indians_, who relieve with provision both man and

beast. Fifteen leagues further is a great Town of _Indians_, called

_Acasabastlan_, standing upon a river, which for fish is held the best

all that Country. Though here are many sorts, yet above all there is

one which they call Bobo, a thick round fish as long or longer then

a mans arme, with onely a middle bone, as white as milke, at fat as

butter, and good to boil, fry, stew or bake. There is also from hence

most of the way to _Guatemala_ in brooks and shallow rivers, one of the

best sort of fishes in the world, which the _Spaniards_ judge to be a

kind of Trout, it is called there Tepemechin, the fat whereof resembles

veal more than fish.

This Towne of _Acasabastlan_ is governed by a _Spaniard_ who is called

Corrigidor; his power extendeth no farther then to the Golfe, and to

those Townes in the way. This Governour hath often attempted to bring

in those _Simarrones_ from the mountaines, but could never prevaile

against them. All the strength of this place may bee some twenty

muskets (for so many _Spanish_ houses there may bee in the Towne) and

some few _Indians_ that use bowes and arrowes, for the defence of the

Town against the _Blackmore Simarrones_.

About _Acasabastlan_, there are many Estancia's of Cattell and

Mules, much Cacao, Achiotte, and drugs for Chocolatte; There is also

Apothecary drugs, as _Zarzaparilla_, and _Canna fistula_, and in the

Town as much variety of fruits and gardens, as in any one _Indian_ Town

in the Country; But above all _Acasabastlan_, is farre known, and much

esteemed of in the City of _Guatemala_, for excellent Muskmillians,

some small, some bigger then a mans head, wherewith the _Indians_

load their mules and carry them to sell all over the Country. From

hence to _Guatemala_, there are but thirty short leagues, and though

some hills there be, ascents and descent, yet nothing troublesome

to man or beast. Among these Mountaines there have beene discovered

some mines of metall, which the _Spaniards_ have begun to digge, and

finding that they have been some of Copper, and some of iron, they

have let them alone, judgeing them more chargeable then profitable.

But greater profit have the _Spaniards_ lost, then of iron and copper,

for using the poore _Indians_ too hardly, and that in this way, from

_Acasabastlan_ to _Guatemala_, especially about a place called, _el

Agua Caliente_, the hot water, where is a River, out of which in some

places formerly the _Indians_ found such store of gold, that they were

charged by the _Spaniards_ with a yeerly tribute of gold. But the

_Spaniards_ being like _Valdivia_ in _Chille_, too greedy after it,

murthering the _Indians_ for not discovering unto them whereabout this

treasure lay, have lost both treasure and _Indians_ also. Yet unto this

day search is made about the Mountaines, the River, and the sands for

the hidden treasure, which peradventure by Gods order and appointment,

doth and shall lie hide, and kept for a people better knowing and

honouring their God. At this place called _el Agua Caliente_, or the

hot water, liveth a Blackmore in an Estancia of his own, who is held

to be very rich, and gives good entertainement to the Travellers that

passe that way; he is rich in Cattell, Sheep, and Goates, and from his

Farm stores _Guatemala_ and the people thereabout with the best Cheese

of all that Country. But his riches are thought not so much to increase

from his Farm and cheeses, but from this hidden treasure, which

credibly is reported to be known unto him. He hath been questioned

about it in the Chancery of _Guatemala_, but hath denyed often any such

treasure to be known unto him. The jealousie and suspicion of him, is,

for that formerly having been a slave, hee bought his freedome with

great summes of money, and since hee hath been free, hath bought that

farm and much land lying to it, and hath exceedingly increased his

stock; To which hee answereth, that when hee was young and a slave,

hee had a good Master, who let him get for himself what hee could,

and that hee playing the good husband, gathered as much as would buy

his liberty, and at first a little house to live in, to the which God

hath since given a blessing with a greater increase of stock. From

this hot water three or foure leagues, there is another River called,

_Rio de las Vaccas_, or the River of _Cowes_, where are a company of

poore and country people most of them Mestizo's, and Mulatto's, who

live in thatched houses, with some small stock of Cattell, spending

their time also in searching for sands of Gold, hoping that one day by

their diligent search they and their children, and all their Country

shall bee inriched, and that _Rio de las Vaccas_, shall parallel

_Pactolus_, and stirre up the wits of Poets to speak of it as much as

ever they have spoke of that. From this River is presently discovered

the pleasantest valley in all that Country, (where my selfe did live

at least five yeers) called the Valley of _Mixco_, and _Pinola_, lying

six leagues from _Guatemala_, being fifteen miles in length, and ten

or twelve in breadth; Out of the inclosures this Valley is stored with

sheep; the ground inclosed is divided into many Farmes, where groweth

better wheat then any in the Country of _Mexico_. From this Valley the

city is well provided of wheat, and Bisket is made for the ships that

come every yeere unto the Golf. It is called the Valley of _Mixco_, and

_Pinola_ from two Townes of _Indians_, so called, standing opposite

the one to the other on each side of the Valley, _Pinola_, on the

left side from _Rio de las Vaccas_, and _Mixco_ on the right. Here do

live many rich Farmers, but yet Country and clownish people, who know

more of breaking clods of earth, then of managing Armes offensive or

defensive. But among them I must not forget one friend of mine, called

_Juan Palomeque_, whom I should have more esteemed of then I did if I

could have prevailed with him to have made him live more like a man

then a beast, more like a free man then a bond slave to his gold and

silver. This man had in my time three hundred lusty mules trained up in

the way of the Golf, which hee divided into six Requa's, or companies,

and for them he kept above a hundred _Black-more_ slaves, men, women,

and children, who lived neer _Mixco_ in severall thatched cottages.

The house he lived in himselfe was but a poore thatched house, wherein

he tooke more delight to live then in other houses which he had in

_Guatemala_, for there hee lived like a wilde _Simarron_ among his

slaves and _Black-mores_, whereas in the City he should have lived

civilly; there he lived with milke, curds, and blacke, hard and mouldy

bisket, and with a dry tassajo, which is dry salted beefe cut out in

thinne slices, and dryed in the sun and wind, till there be little

substance left in it, such as his slaves were wont to cary to the

Golfe for their provision by the way, whereas if he had lived in the

City, he must have eat for his credit what others of worth did eat.

But the miser knew well, which was the best way to save, and so chose

a field for a City, a cottage for a house, company of _Simarrones_ and

_Black-mores_ for Citizens, and yet he was thought to be worth six

hundred thousand duckats. He was the undoer of all others who dealed

with Mules for bringing and carrying commodities to the Golfe for the

Merchants; for he having lusty Mules, lusty slaves, would set the

price or rate for the hundred weight so, as he might get, but others

at that rate hiring _Indians_ and servants to goe with their Mules,

might lose. He was so cruell to his _Black-mores_, that if any were

untoward, he would torment them almost to death; amongst whom he had

one slave called _Macaco_ (for whom I have often interceded, but to

little purpose) whom he would often hang up by the armes, and whip him

till the blood ran about his back, and then his flesh being torne,

mangled, and all in a goar blood, he would for last cure powre boyling

grease upon it; he had marked him for a slave with burning irons upon

his face, his hands, his armes, his back, his belly, his thighes, his

legs, that the poor slave was weary of life, and I thinke would two

or three times have hanged himselfe, if I had not counselled him to

the contrary. He was so sensuall and carnall that he would use his own

slaves wives at his pleasure; nay when he met in the City any of that

kind handsome and to his liking, if she would not yeeld to his desire,

he would goe to her master or mistresse, and buy her, offering far more

then she was worth, boasting that he would pull downe her proud and

haughty lookes, with one yeers slavery under him. He killed in my time

two _Indians_ in the way to the Golfe, and with his mony came off, as

if he had killed but a dog. He would never marry, because his slaves

supplyed the bed of a wife, and none of his neighbours durst say him

nay; whereby he hasted to fill that valley with bastards of all sorts

and colours, by whom, when that rich miser dieth, all his wealth and

treasure is like to be consumed.

Besides the two Townes which denominate this valley, there standeth

at the East end of it close by the _Rio de las Vaccas_ an Ermitage,

called _Nostra Sennora del Carmel_, or our Lady of _Carmel_, which

is the Parish Church to all those severall farmes of _Spaniards_

living in the valley; though true it is, most constantly they doe

resort unto the _Indian_ Townes to Masse, and in _Mixco_ especially,

the _Spaniards_ have a rich sodality of our Lady of the Rosary, and

the _Black-mores_ another. In all the valley there may be between

fourty and fifty _Spanish_ farmes or houses belonging to the Ermitage,

and in all these houses, some three hundred slaves, men and women,

_Black-mores_ and _Mulatto's. Mixco_ is a town of three hundred

families, but in it nothing considerable, but the riches belonging

unto the two forenamed Sodalities, and some rich _Indians_, who have

learned of the _Spaniards_ to break clods of earth, and to sow wheat,

and to traffique with Mules unto the Golfe. Besides what fowles and

great store of Turkeys which in this Towne are bred, there is a

constant slaughter house, where meat is sold to the _Indians_ within,

and to the farmes without, and provision is made for all the Requa's

and slaves that go to the Golfe with their masters Mules. Besides the

six Requa's before named of _Juan Palomeque_, there are in this valley

four brothers, named _Don Gaspar, Don Diego, Don Thomas, Don Juan de

Colindres_, who have each of them a Requa of threescore Mules (though

few slaves, and onely hired _Indians_ to goe with them) to traffique

to the Golfe, and over all the Country as far as _Mexico_ sometimes.

Yet besides these there are some six more Requa's belonging to other

farms, which with those of the Towne of _Mixco_ may make up full twenty

Requa's; and those twenty Requa's containe above a thousand Mules,

which only from this valley are imployed to all parts of the Country by

the rich Merchants of _Guatemala_. But to returne againe to the Towne

of _Mixco_, the constant passage thorow it of these Requa's, of rich

Merchants, of all passengers that goe and come from _Spain_, hath made

it very rich; whereas in the Town it self there is no other commodity,

except it be a kind of earth, whereof are made rare and excellent

pots for water, pans, pipkins, platters, dishes, chafing-dishes,

warming-pans, wherein those _Indians_ shew much wit, and paint them

with red, white, and severall mingled colours, and sell them to

_Guatemala_, and the Towns about, which some Criolian women will eat

by full mouth fulls, endangering their health and lives, so that by

this earthly ware they may looke white and pale. The Towne of _Pinola_

in bignesse is much like unto _Mixco_, but a far pleasanter Town, more

healthy and better seated, standing upon a plain, whereas _Mixco_

stands on the side on a hill, which carrieth the Travellers quite out

of the sight of the valley. In _Pinola_ there is also a slaughter

house, where beef is dayly sold, there is plenty of fowles, Fruits,

Maiz, Wheat, (though not altogether so bright as that of _Mixco_) hony,

and the best water thereabouts; it is called in the _Indian_ tongue

_Panac_, (some say) from a fruit of that name which is very abundant

there. On the North and South side of this valley are hils, which

are most sown with wheat, which proveth better there then in the low

valley. At the West end of it, stand two greater Townes then _Mixco_

and _Pinola_, named _Petapa_, and _Amatitlan_, to the which there are

in the midst of the valley some descents and ascents, which they call

Baranca's or bottomes, where are pleasant streames and fountaines, and

good feeding for sheep, and Cattel.

_Petapa_ is a Towne of at least five hundred inhabitants very rich,

who suffer also some _Spaniards_ to dwell amongst them, from whom

also those _Indians_ have learned to live and thrive in the world.

This Towne is the passage from _Comayagua, St. Salvador, Nicaragua_,

and _Costa Rica_, and hath got great wealth by the constant goers and

comers. It is esteemed one of the pleasantest Townes belonging unto

_Guatemala_, for a great Lake of fresh water neer unto it, which is

full of fish, especially crabs, and a fish called, Mojarra, which is

much like unto a mullet (though not altogether so big) and eateth like

it. In this Towne there is a certaine number of _Indians_ appointed,

who are to fish for the City, and on Wednesdayes, Fridayes, and

Saturdayes, are bound to carry such a quantity to _Guatemala_, of Crabs

and Mojarra's, as the Corregidor and Regidores, Major and Aldermen (who

are but eight) shall command weekly to be brought.