There are many Mines of Iron which the _Spaniards_ will not busie

themselves in digging, because they have it cheaper from _Spain_; from

hence wee came to the City of _Guaxaca_, which is a Bishops Seat,

though not very bigge, yet a faire and beautifull City to behold. It

standeth fourescore leagues from _Mexico_ in a pleasant valley from

whence _Cortez_ was named _Marques del Valle_, the Marquesse of the

Valley. This City, as all the rest of _America_, except the Sea Towns,

lyeth open without walls, Bulwarkes, Forts, Towers, or any Castle,

Ordnance or Ammunition to defend it. It may consist of at the most two

thousand Inhabitants, and are governed by a _Spanish_ High Justice

called _Alcalde Major_, whose power reacheth over all the Valley, and

beyond it as farre as _Nixapa_, and almost to _Tecoantepeque_, a Sea

Towne upon _Mar del Zur_. The Valley is of at least fifteen miles

in length, and ten in breadth, where runneth in the midst a goodly

River yeelding great store of fish. The Valley is full of Sheep and

other Cattell, which yeeld much Wooll to the Clothiers of the City

of _Angels_, store of Hides to the Merchants of _Spain_, and great

provision of flesh to the City of _Guaxaca_, and to all the Townes

about, which are exceeding rich, and doe maintaine many Cloisters of

Fryers, and Churches with stately furniture belonging unto them. But

what doth make the Valley of _Guaxaca_ to bee mentioned farre and

neer, are the good horses which are bred in it, and esteemed to bee

the best of all the Country. In this Valley also are some farmes of

Sugar, and great store of fruits, which two sorts meeting together have

cried up the City of _Guaxaca_ for the best Conserves and Preserves

that are made in _America_. In the City there are some six Cloisters

of Nuns and Fryers, all of them exceeding rich; but above all is the

Cloister of the Dominican Fryers, whose Church treasure is worth two

or three Millions; and the building of it the fairest and strongest

in all those parts, the walls are of stone so broad, that a part of

them being upon finishing when I was there I saw Carts goe upon them,

with stone and other materials. Here are also two Cloisters of Nuns,

which are talked of far and neer not for their religious practices,

but for their skill in making two drinkes which are used in those

parts, the one called _Chocolatte_ (whereof I shall speake heereafter)

and the other _Atolle_, which is like unto our _Almond_ Milk, but

much thicker, and is made of the juyce of the yong _Maiz_ or _Indian_

wheat, which they so confection with spices, musk, and sugar, that

it is not onely admirable in the sweetnesse of the smell, but much

more nourishing and comforting the stomack. This is not a Commoditie

that can bee transported from thence, but is to be drunk there where

it is made. But the other, _Chocolatte_, is made up in Boxes, and

sent not onely to _Mexico_ and the parts thereabouts, but much of it

is yeerly transported into _Spain_. This City of _Guaxaca_ is the

richer by reason of the safety they enjoy for the carriage of their

Commodities to and from the port of St. _John de Ulhua_ by the great

River _Alvarado_ which runneth not far from it; and although the Barkes

come not to the City of _Guaxaca_, yet they come up to the _Zapotecas_,

and to St. _Ildefonso_, which is not farre from _Guaxaca_. And the

carelessenesse of the _Spaniards_ here is to be wondred at, that all

along this River which runneth up into the heart of their Country, they

have built as yet no Castles, Towers, or watch-houses, or planted any

Ordinance, trusting onely in this, that great ships cannot come up, as

if Frigots or smaller Barks, such as they themselves use, may not bee

made to annoy them. But of _Guaxaca_ I shall say no more, but conclude

that it is of so temperate an aire, so abounding in fruits, and all

provision requisite for mans life, so commodiously situated between

the North and South Sea, having on the North side St. _John de Ulhua_,

and on the South _Tecoantepeque_ a small and unfortified harbour,

that no place I so much desired to live in whilest I was in those

parts as in _Guaxaca_, which certainly I had attempted as I travailed

by it, had I not understood that the Criolian or Native Fryers were

many and as deadly enemies unto those that came from _Spain_ as were

the _Mexicans_. And this their spight and malice they shewed whilest

wee were there, to an ancient and grave old Fryer Master in Divinity,

who living had been for learning the Oracle of those parts. This old

man died when I was there, and because when hee lived they could

pick no hole in his Coat, being dead they searched his chamber, and

finding in a Coffer some moneys which hee had not made knowne to his

Superiour when living (which they would reduce to a sinne against his

professed poverty, called Propriety, and subject to the censure of

Excommunication) they reported that hee had died excommunicated, and

might not injoy their Christian buriall in the Church or Cloister, and

so ignominiously buried their old Divine, and with him his Credit and

reputation in a grave made in one of their Gardens. A thing much talked

on as scandalous to all the City and Country, which they salved with

saying hee was excommunicated; but the truth was, he was of _Spaine_,

and therefore at his death they would shew their spight unto him. For

certainly they could not doe it for the sinne of Propriety which by

him had been committed in his life; and to them all may be well said

what our Saviour said to the Jewes bringing to him a woman found in

adultery to bee stoned, Whosoever of you is without sinne, let him cast

the first stone; for all of them, yea even the best Fryers that live in

_America_, are some way or other, much or lesse guilty of the sinne of

Propriety which they professe and vow against. With this which wee saw

with our eyes, besides what with our eares wee had heard of discords

and factions amongst them, wee thought _Guaxaca_ was no place for us

to live in; so after three dales we made haste out of it, and departed

towards _Chiapa_, which lyeth three hundred miles from thence. And for

our comfort in our further travailing we were informed in _Guaxaca_,

that in most Towns of the Rode through that country, the _Indians_ had

an order from the High Justice to give unto Fryers travailing that way

either horse to ride on, or to carry their carriages and provision of

food freely without mony, if they had none, so that at their departure

they should write it down in the town booke what they had spent, not

abiding above foure and twenty houres in the Town; which expences of

travailers the _Indians_ afterwards at the yeers end of their ordinary

Justice and Officers were to give an account of with carrying their

Towne book unto the _Spanish_ justice to whom they belonged, and by so

doing these expences were allowed of to bee discharged by the common

Towne Purse or Treasure, for the which a common plot of ground was

alloted to bee yeerly sowen with wheat or _Maiz_. With this charitable

relief and help of the Townes wee conceived better of the rest of our

long journey, and hoped to compasse it with more ease. And so joyfully

we went on, and the first place where wee made triall of this order

was at a great Town called _Antiquera_, where wee freely called for

our fowles and what other provision we saw in the Town, fed heartily

on them, and the next day when we were to pay and to depart, wee

called for the Town book, subscribed our hands to what wee had spent

ourselves and horses, and went our way, praising the discretion of

the Justices of that Country, who had setled a course so easy and

comfortable for us, especially who had but shallow purses for our

long journy. Yet we found in some small Towns that the _Indians_ were

unwilling, and (as they alleadged) unable to extend this Charity to

us, being foure in company, and bringing with us the charge likewise

of foure horses, which made us sometimes make the longer journey

that wee might reach unto some great and rich Towne. The next to

_Antiquera_ in that Rode is _Nixapa_, which is of at the least eight

hundred Inhabitans, _Spaniards_ and _Indians_, standing upon the side

of a River, which wee were informed was an arme of the great River

_Alvarado_. In this Town is a very rich Cloister of Dominican Fryers,

where we were well entertained; & in it there is a picture of our

Lady, which superstitiously they fancy to have wrought miracles, and

is made a pilgrimage from far and neere, and consequently hath great

riches and Lampes belonging unto it. This is counted absolutely one

of the wealthiest places of all the Countrey of _Guaxaca_; for here

is made much Indigo, Sugar, _Cochinill_; and here grow many trees of

_Cacao_ and _Achiotte_, whereof is made the _Chocolatte_, and is a

commodity of much trading in those parts, though our _English_ and

_Hollanders_ make little of it when they take a prize of it at Sea,

as not knowing the secret virtue and quallity of it for the good of

the stomack. From hence we went to _Aguatulco_ and _Capalita_, also

great Towns standing upon a plain Country full of Sheep and Cattell,

abounding with excellent fruits, especially _Pines_ and _Sandia's_,

which are as big as Pumpions, and so waterish that they even melt like

snow in the mouth, & cool the heat which there is great, by reason it

is a low and Marsh kind of ground, lying neer the South Sea. The next

chief Town and most considerable after _Capalita_ is _Tecoantepeque_;

this is a Sea Town upon _Mar del Zur_, and a harbour for small vessels,

such as Trade from those parts to _Acapulco_ and _Mexico_, and to

_Realejo_ and _Guatemala_, and sometimes to _Panama_. Here upon some

occasions Ships which come from _Peru_ to _Acapulco_ doe call in. It

is a port no farther safe, then that no _English_ or _Holland_ Ships

doe come thereabouts, which if they did, they would there find no

resistance, but from thence would finde an open and easie Rode over

all the Countrey. Upon all this South Sea side from _Acapulco_ to

_Panama_, which is above two thousand miles by land there is no open

harbour, but this for _Guaxaca_, and _La Trinidad_ for _Guatemala_, and

_Realejo_ for _Nicaragua_, and _Golfo de Salinas_ for small vessels

in _Costa Rica_, and all these unprovided of Ordnance and Ammunition,

all open dores to let in any Nation that would take the pains to

surround the World to get a treasure. This port of _Tecoantepeque_

is the chiefe for fishing in all that Countrey; wee met here in the

wayes sometimes with fifty, sometimes with a hundred mules together

laden with nothing but salt fish for _Guaxaca_, City of the _Angels_

and _Mexico_. There are some very rich Merchants dwell in it, who trade

with _Mexico, Peru_ and _Philippinas_, sending their small vessels out

from Port to Port, which come home richly laden with the Commodities of

all the Southerne or Easterne parts. From hence to _Guatemala_ there

is a plaine Rode along the Coast of the South Sea, passing through

the Provinces of _Soconuzco_ and _Suchutepeques_; but wee aiming at

_Chiapa_ tooke our journey over the high Rocks and Mountaines called

_Quelenes_, travailing first from _Tecoantepeque_ to _Estepeque_, and

from thence through a desert of two dayes journey, where wee were faine

to lodge one night by a spring of water upon the bare ground in open

wide fields, where neither Town nor house is to bee seene, yet thatcht

lodges are purposely made for travailers. This plain lyeth so open

to the Sea, that the wind from thence blow so strongly and violently

that travailers are scarce able to sit their horses and mules; which

is the reason no people inhabit there, because the windes teare their

houses, and the least fire that there breaks out, doth a great deale

of mischief. This plaine yet is full of Cattell, and Horses and Mares,

some wild, some tame; and through this windy Champaigne Country with

much adoe we travailed; though my self thought I should even there end

my daies, for the second day being to reach to a Towne, and my three

friends riding before, thinking that I followed them, evening now

drawing on they made more hast to find the Town. But in the meane while

my horse refused to goe any further, threatning to lie downe if I put

him to more then hee was able. I knew the towne could not be far, and

so I lighted, thinking to walke and lead my horse, who also refused to

bee led, and so lay downe. With this a troop of thoughts beset mee,

and to none I could give a flat answer. I thought if I should goe on

foot to finde out the Towne and my company and leave my horse there

sadled, I might both lose my selfe, and my horse and saddle; and if I

should find the Towne and come in the morning for my horse, the plain

was so wide and spatious, that I might seeke long enough, and neither

finde him, nor know the place where I left him, for there was nothing

neere to marke the place, nor where to hide the saddle, neither hedge,

tree, shrub, within a mile on any side. Wherefore I considered my best

course would bee to take up my lodging in the wide and open wildernesse

with my horse, and to watch him lest hee should wander and stray away,

untill the morning or untill my friends might send from the towne to

see what was become of mee; which they did not that night, thinking

I had taken my way to another Town not far from thence, whither they

sent in the morning to enquire for me. I looked about therefore for

a commodious place to rest in, but found no choice of lodgings,

everywhere I found a bed ready for mee, which was the bare ground; a

bolster onely or pillow I wanted for my head, and seeing no bank did

kindly offer it selfe to ease a lost stranger, and pilgrime, I unsadled

my weary Jade, and with my saddle fitted my head in stead of a pillow.

Thus without a supper I went to bed in my Mothers owne bosome, not a

little comforted to see my tired horse pluck up his spirits, and make

much of his supper, which there was ready for him, of short, dry and

withered grasse, upon which hee fed with a greedy and hungry stomack,

promising mee by his feeding that the next day he would performe a

journey of at least thirty or forty miles. The poor Beast fed apace,

my careful eye watched him for at least an houre, when upon a suddain

I heard such an hideous noise of howling, barking, and crying, as if a

whole Army of dogs were come into the wildernesse, and howled for want

of a prey of some dead horse or mule. At first the noise seemed to be a

pretty way off from mee; but the more I hearkened unto it, the nigher

it came unto mee, and I perceived it was not of dogs by some intermixt

shriekings as of Christians, which I observed in it. An observation

too sad for alone man without any helpe or comfort in a wildernesse,

which made my haire to stand upright, my heart to pant, my body to bee

covered with a fearfull sweat as of death. I expected nothing else,

not knowing from whence the noise proceeded; sometimes I thought of

Witches, sometimes of devils, sometimes of _Indians_ turned into the

shape of beasts, (which amongst some hath beene used) sometimes of

wild and savage beasts, and from all these thoughts I promised my self

nothing but sure death, for the which I prepared my selfe recommending

my soule to the Lord, whilst I expected my body should bee a prey to

cruell and mercilesse beasts; or some instruments of that roaring Lion

who in the Apostle goeth about seeking whom he may devoure. I thought

I could not any waies prevaile by flying or running away, but rather

might that way runne my selfe into the jawes of death; to hide there

was no place, to lie still I thought was safest, for if they were wild

beasts, they might follow their course another way from mee, and so

I might escape. Which truly proved my safest course, for while I lay

sweating and panting, judging every cry, every howling and shrieking an

alarm to my death, being in this agony and fearfull conflict till about

midnight, on a suddain the noise ceased, sleep (though but the shadow

of death) seized upon my wearied body, and forsook me not, til the

mornings glorious lamp shining before my slumbering eies and driving

away deaths shadow greeted me with life & safety. When I awaked, my

soul did magnifie the Lord for my deliverance from that nights danger,

I looked about & saw my horse also neer the place where I had left

him, I sadled him presently with desire to leave that wildernesse

and to find out my company, and to impart unto them what that night

had happened unto mee; I had not rid above a mile, when I came to a

brook of water, where were two waies, the one straight forward along

the desart, where I could discover no Towne, nor houses, nor trees in

a prospect of five or six miles at least; the other way was on the

left hand, and that way some two or three miles off I saw a wood of

trees, I imagined there might be the Towne; I followed that way, and

within a quarter of a mile my Horse beganne to complaine of his poore

provender the night before, and to slight me for it; I was fain to

light and lead him; and thus againe discouraged with my Horse, and

discomforted for the uncertainty of my way, looking about I spied a

thatcht house on the one side of the way, and one on Horse-back, who

came riding to mee; it was an _Indian_ belonging to that house which

was the farme of a rich _Indian_, and Governour of the next Towne, of

whom I asked how farre it was to the Town of _Estepeque_, he shewed me

the trees, and told me that a little beyond them it stood, and that I

should not see it untill I came unto it. With this I got up againe and

spurred my sullen jade, untill I reached unto the trees, where he was

at a stand and would goe no further. Then I unsadled him, and hid my

saddle under some low shrubs, and leaving my horse (whom I feared not

that any would steale him) I walked unto the Towne which was not above

halfe a mile from thence, where I found my three friends were waiting

for me, and grieved for the losse of me, had sent to another Towne to

enquire for me; it was the least thought they had that I had been a

lodger in the desart. When I related unto them and to the _Indians_

the noise and howling that I had heard, the _Indians_ answered me that

that was common musick to them almost every night, & that they were

Wolves and Tigres which they feared not, but did often meet them and

with a sticke or hollowing did scare them away, and that they were

onely ravenous for their Fowles, Colts, Calves or Kids. After a little

discourse I returned with an _Indian_ to seeke my Horse and saddle, and

in that Towne I sould my wearied _Mexican_ beast, and hired another to

_Ecatepeque_ whither we went all four friends again in company. Where

note that in this plain and champaigne country of _Tecoantepeque_

are five rich and pleasant Townes full of fruits and provision of

victuall, all ending in _Tepeque_, to wit, _Tecoantepeque, Estepeque,

Ecatepeque, Sanatepeque_, and _Tapanatepeque_. Now from _Ecatepeque_

wee could discover the high mountaines of _Quelenes_, which were the

subject of most of our discourse to _Sanatepeque_, and from thence to

_Tapanatepeque_. For we had been informed by _Spaniards_ and Travailers

in the way, that they were the most dangerous mountains to travail over

that were in all those parts; and that there were on the top of them

some passages so narrow, and so high, and so open to the boisterous

winds that came from the South-sea, which seemed to lie at the very

bottom of them; and on each side of these narrow passages such deep

precipices among rocks, that many times it had happened, that the wind

blowing furiously had cast downe Mules laden with heavy carriages downe

the rockes, and likewise Horse-men had been blown down both Horse

and man. The sight of the rockes and mountaines did terrifie us, and

the report of them did much affright us; so that in all this way we

did conferre which way to take, whether the rode way to _Guatemala_

which lieth under those mountaines along the coast by the Country of

_Soconuzco_, from whence (though out of our way) we might have turned

to _Chiapa_, or whether we should steer our right course to _Chiapa_

over those mountains, which we had been informed, we might safely passe

over if the winds did not blow too boisterously. We resolved that when

wee came to _Tapanatepeque_ we would choose our way according as the

winds did favour or threaten us, but however to _Chiapa_ we would goe,

because there we had understood was the Superiour and Provinciall or

all the Dominicans of those parts, (to whom we ought to addresse our

selves) and also because we would see that famous and much talked of

Province of _Chiapa_. In _Sanatepeque_ wee met with a Frier who gave

us stately entertainment, and from thence gave us _Indians_ to guide

us to _Tapanatepeque_, and a letter to the chiefe of the Towne (which

also was at his command) to give us Mules to carry us, and _Indians_

to guide us up the mountaines. Here the rest of our Horses also failed

us, but their wearinesse was no hinderance to us, for the _Indians_

were willing to give us as much or more then they had cost us, because

they were true _Mexican_ breed, and all the way we went to _Chiapa_

and through that country to _Guatemala_ the Towns were to provide us

of Mules for nothing. We came to _Tapanatepeque_ (which standeth at

the bottome and foot of _Quelenes_) on Saturday night, and with the

letter we carried were very much welcomed and entertained well by the

_Indians_.

This Towne is one of the sweetest and pleasantest of any we had seen

from _Guaxaca_ thither, and it seems God hath replenished it with

all sorts of comforts which Travailers may need to ascend up those

dangerous and steepy rockes. Here is great plenty of cattel for flesh,

and rich _Indians_ which have farmes, called there _Estantia's_, in

some a thousand, in some three or four thousand head of cattell; fowles

here are in abundance, fish the best store and choisest of any Towne

from _Mexico_ thither; for the Sea is hard by it, and besides there

runneth by it a small river which yeelds divers sorts of fish. From

the mountaines there fall so many springs of water, that with them the

_Indians_ water at their pleasure their gardens which are stored with

much herbage and sallets. The shade which defends from the heat (which

there is great) is the daughter of most sweet and goodly fruit trees,

and of Orange, Lemmon, Citron and Fig leaves. The Sabbath morning was

so calme that we desired to make use of it, lest by longer delayes the

winds should stay us, or force us to the coast of _Soconusco_. But the

_Indians_ intreated us to bee their guests at dinner, not doubting but

the weather would hold, and promising us to provide us strong and lusty

Mules, and provision of fruits, and fried fish, or fowles, or what

our selves desired. We could not refuse this their kind offer, and so

stayed dinner with them. After dinner our Mules were brought, and two

_Indians_ to guide us and carry our provision, which was some fried

fish, and a cold rosted Capon, with some fruit as much as might suffice

us for a day, for the chief ascent and danger is not above seven

leagues, or one and twenty _English_ miles, and then beyond the top

of the mountaines three miles is one of the richest farms for Horses,

Mules, and Cattel, in all the Countrey of _Chiapa_, where we knew we

should be welcomed by one _Don John de Toledo_, who then lived there.

Though these mountaines shew themselves with severall sharp pointed

heads, and are many joyned together, yet one of them is only mentioned

in that Country by the Travailers, which is called _Maquilapa_, over

the which lieth the way to _Chiapa_. To this high, steepy, and craggy

_Maquilapa_ we tooke our journey after dinner, and were by the proud

mountaine that night well entertained, and harboured in a green plot of

ground resembling a meadow, which lay as a rib of the one side of that

huge and more then _Pyrenian_ monster. The _Indians_ comforted us with

the shews of faire weather, and told us that they doubted not but the

next day at noone we should be at _Don John de Toledo_ his _Estancia_,

or farme. With this we spread our supper upon the green table-cloth,

and at that first meale eat up our Capon and most of the provision of

our cold fried fish, leaving only a bit for our mornings breakefast,

the springs of water like Conduit-pipes, trickling downe the rockes,

gave us melodious musicke to our supper; the _Indians_ fed merrily, and

our Mules contentedly, and so the fountaine Nymphes sung us asleep till

morning, which seemed to us as calme and quiet as the day before, and

encouraged us hastily to snatch that bit which we had left and so up

from breakefast, to say merrily, up to _Maquilapa_. We had not winded

the mountaine upwards much above a mile, when the higher we mounted,

the more we heard the wind from above whistling unto us, and forbidding

us to goe any further. We were now halfe way up, and doubtfull what wee

should doe, whither go forward, or returne to _Tapanatepeque_ to eat

more fish, or to stay where we were a while untill the weather were

more calme, which we thought might be at noone or towards evening. The

_Indians_ told us that about a mile further there was a fountaine of

water, and a lodge made under trees on purpose for Travailers that

were either benighted or hindred by the winds to compasse their journey

up the mountaine. Thither we went with much adoe, hoping the wind

would fall; but still the higher we climbed, the stronger we felt the

breath or _Æolus_, and durst not like the people called _Psilli_ (of

whom _Herodotus_ writeth) march against him, least as they in stead of

a victory found a grave in the sands where they met to oppose him, so

we in stead of ascending should by a furious blast be made to descend

into those deep and horrid precipices, which truely threatned death,

and offered themselves to be a grave unto our torne and mangled bodies.

We liked the fountaine very well, and the lodge better for the harbour

of trees which compassed it about. The wind kept on breathing, and we

stood still fearing, till the day was so farre spent that we had no

hopes of going back, or forward. Of any supper we despaired that night,

who would have been glad now to have picked a bone of a Capons leg, or

to have sucked a fishes head, and saw there was nothing for us, but

only to feed our hungry stomackes with the remembrance of the plenty

the night before. Thus gazing one upon another, and sometimes looking

down to the fountaine, sometimes looking up to the trees, we perceived

amongst them a Lemmon tree, full of small and very sowre green Lemmons.

It was not with us as with _Tantalus_ who could neither injoy the fruit

above him, nor the waters beneath him; we could and did most greedily

catch and snatch the Lemmons, which were sawce for no meate, but onely

to fill an empty stomack; with them wee supped and tooke our rest. The

next morning the wind was rather stronger then calmer, and we as strong

the second day as the first in our purpose of staying there, and not

turning our backes like Cowards. The _Indians_ were also willing to

stay yet one day longer; so we fell to our breakefast of Lemmons which

were somewhat coole to a fasting stomack, and relished nothing the

better with a draught from the cleere fountaine. And of what we left

on the tree we made our dinner and supper, adding to our water what we

saw the _Indians_ did drinke, who had their small bags full of powder

of their Maiz, of which first making cakes as dry as bisket they then

grind them to powder, and when they travaile, carry with them that

powder to drink with water. This wee thought might bee more nourishing

to us, then Lemmons and water onely, and so for that day we bought of

them halfe a bagfull of powder giving for it in our want and necessity

four rials, or two _English_ shillings, which out of _Maquilapa_ and

that our feare of starving might not be worth above a penny; and yet

this was but weake nourishment for our feeble bodies. Thus we waited

all Tuesday for the laying of the wind, resolving the next morning

either to goe up the hill, or downe againe to _Tapanatepeque_. But on

Wednesday morning the wind seeming to be somewhat laid, we purposed

to stay till noon hoping then it would be sure travailing; but it

ceased not but rather increased a little; whereupon one of our company

resolved to goe upwards a mile or two on foot, and trie the passages,

and the danger of the wind and to bring us word againe; for we thought

our feare might be greater then the danger, who had heard much talke,

but had not as yet seen any thing worth our feare. Up therefore went

our friend, who staid from us neer two houres, and then returning backe

he told us he thought we might get up leading our Mules by the bridles.

But what with further questions and debates the time passed away, so

that we thought it might be too late; and for that day we put off our

journey untill the next morning, resolutely purposing to goe forwards

altogether if the wind were not much increased. So that day we fell

again to our green crabby Lemmons, water and Maiz powder, all which

we found had much weakned our bodies and feared if we continued there

any longer they might hasten our death. Wherefore on Thursday morning

(the wind being as the day before) commending our selves first unto

the protection of that Lord whom the winds and sea obey, we mounted

up upon our Mules (leaving our names written in the barke of a great

tree, and the dayes we stayed there without food) and so went upward.

Wee perceived no great danger in the wind a great while, but some steps

and passages upon stony rockes we feared for the narrownesse of them,

and there we lighted, thinking our selves safer upon our own two feet,

then upon the four feet of a beast. But when we came up to the very

top of _Maquilapa_ (which signifies in that tongue, A head without

haire) we perceived truly the danger so much talked of, and wished our

selves again with our green Lemmons in the way to _Tapanatepeque_,

for we found it indeed a head without haire, a top without a tree or

branch to shelter a fearfull Traveller; the passage that lieth open to

the sea may be no more than a quarter of a mile, but the height and

narrownesse of it stupefieth, for if we looke on the one side, there

is the wide and spatious South-sea lying so deep and low under it that

it dazleth the eies to behold it; if wee looke on the other side, there

are rockes of at least six or seven miles depth; whose sight doth

make the stoutest and hardest heart (though like themselves) to quake

and quiver; so that here the sea expects to swallow, there the rockes

threaten to tear with a downfall, and in the midst of those dangers in

some places the passage is not above an ell broad. We needed better

cordialls for that quarter of a mile then feeding three daies upon

green Lemmons and water, and durst not man our selves so much as to goe

through it upon our Mules; we lighted, and gave the _Indians_ our Mules

to lead, and we followed them one by one not daring to walk upright

for fear of head giddinesse with looking on either side, but bowing

our bodies we crept upon our hands and feet as neere unto the trackes

which beasts and Travailers had made as we could without hindering

our going. And when we had got to the end of that passage, and where

the mountaine was broader, and the trees promised reliefe, we then

looked back boldly, and accused of folly both our selves and all other

Travailers that sought no other way though ten miles about, to avoid

that danger both for man and beast. From thence joyfully we made haste

to _Don John de Toledo_, who made us welcome and gave us some warme

broath to comfort our stomacks, which were so weake that no sooner had

wee eat any thing, but presently we cast it up againe; till after many

sups of broath and wine we recovered strength towards night, and eat

our suppers; there we stayed two daies; and thus thoroughly refreshed

wee went to _Acapala_ a very great Towne of _Indians_ in the Province

of _Chiapa_, standing by the same river that passeth by _Chiapa_,

which is called _Chiapa de Indios_, or _Chiapa_ of the _Indians_, to

distinguish it from another _Chiapa_, called _Chiapa Reall_ the Roial

_Chiapa_, or _Chiapa de Espanoles, Chiapa_ of the _Spaniards_. From

_Acapala_ we went first to _Chiapa_ of the _Indians_, which standeth

almost as low as _Maquilapa_ is high, seated upon a river as broad as

is the _Thames_ at _London_, which hath its spring from the mountaines

called _Cuchumatlanes_, in the rode from _Chiapa Real_ to _Guatemala_,

and runnes towards the Province of _Zoques_, where it entreth into

the river of _Tabasco_. But of this _Chiapa_ I will speak a little

more in the next Chapter, and now onely say that here we were joyfully

entertained by those Fryers, who looked upon us as members belonging

to the Corporation of that their Province, and assured us that the

Provinciall and chief Superiour would be very glad of our coming, who

wanted _Spanish_ Fryers to oppose the Criolians and Natives who strived

to get a head as they had done in _Mexico_ and _Guaxaca_. Here we

understood that the Provinciall was not above one daies journey from

thence. Here also we met with our friend _Peter Borallo_, who had come

before us alone, and made his escape from _Mexico_: he comforted us

much with the good and kind usage which he had found there; yet he told

us how _Calvo_ was gone with the rest of his traine from _Mexico_ to

_Acapulco_, & from thence was shipped with them to _Philippinas_; but

that at his departure he had writ a letter of bitter complaints unto

the Superiour of _Chiapa_ and _Guatemala_ against him and us four,

desiring the Provinciall not to entertaine us, but to send us backe to

_Mexico_, to be shipped from thence the next yeer unto _Philippinas_;

which letter was not regarded; but much slighted by the Provinciall.

After we had been a week feasted in _Chiapa_, we thought it now fit

to present our selves to the Provinciall (whose name was Fryer _Peter

Alvarez_) that from him we might receive judgement, and know whether

we should stay in that Province, or be forced to return to _Spaine_,

for in no other part of _America_ we could be entertained. We found

the Provinciall in a little Towne called _St. Christopher_, between

_Chiapa_ of the _Indians_ and the Roiall _Chiapa_, recreating himselfe

in the shady walkes, which are many sweet and pleasant in that small

Towne; where also there is store of fish, and great abundance of rare,

and exquisite fruits. He entertained us very lovingly with faire

and comfortable words, with a stately dinner and supper, and before

we went to bed, to shew his humility hee did unto us what Christ to

his Disciples, hee washed our feet. The first day he said little or

nothing unto us concerning our continuing in that Country; but the next

day he discovered unto us his full resolutions, with many wile and

cunning sophismes. For first he read unto us the letter which _Calvo_

had writ unto him against us, glossing upon it how ill we had done in

forsaking our first love and calling to _Philippinas_, and the danger

many _Indian_ soules might bee in by reason of our not going thither

to convert and instruct them, whose gifts and abilities he supposed

might have been more profitable and comfortable to those souls, then

those who in our stead and absence should be sent amongst them. And

secondly hee told us how wee had frustrated the King of _Spaines_ good

hopes of us who had allowed us means and maintenance from _Spain_ to

_Mexico_, hoping that by us many soules of _Indians_ in _Philippinas_

might bee saved. Thirdly, hee told us that hee looked upon us as

his prisoners, in whose power it was to imprison us, and to send us

Prisoners to _Mexico_ to the Viceroy, to bee shipped from thence to

_Manila_, according to _Calvo_ his demand. But for the present hee

would not let us know what hee meant to doe with us; Onely hee bad us

not to bee discouraged, but to be merry and recreate our selves, and

that after dinner wee should know more from him, when he had received

an answer to a Letter which hee had writ unto the City of _Chiapa_

concerning the disposall of our persons. These reasonings of the grave

and old Provinciall did not a little sad our hearts; for the losse of

soules, and King of _Spain_ his intentions and charity charged upon us,

and imprisonment spoke of by the by, were words which seemed of a very

high straine, and so could hardly bee digested by us; this mornings

breakfast had quite taken away from us our stomack to our dinner. And

thus wee departed from the presence of the venerable Fryer _Peter

Alvarez_, and betooke our selves to a shady walke under Orange trees

belonging to the house where this Superiour was. In this shade wee

conferred with our selves upon the words of _Alvarez_, and finding them

of so high a nature, as involving soules, a King, and imprisonment, we

thought verily wee should bee sent back to _Mexico_, and from thence

like fugitive slaves bee forced to _Philippinas_. Here my hopes of ever

more seeing _England_ were lost; _Antonio Melendez_ his heart panted,

wished himself again upon the highest top of _Maquilapa_; another

wished himselfe with old _Calvo_ at Sea sailing to _Manila_, though it

were but to help him scrape his rusty Gammons of Bacon.

The motion was made to make an escape from _Alvarez_, as wee had done

from _Calvo_; but to this answer was made, that whither so ever wee

went, not knowing the Country, wee should bee discovered; and that

put case the worst, wee should bee sent to _Mexico_, wee might better

escape in the way, then there where wee were. At last I told the rest,

that I could conceive no hard nor harsh usage from that smiling and

loving countenance of the Provinciall, nor after that his low and

humble act of washing our feet the night before; and that I thought

verily hee wished us well for having come so far to offer our selves

for fellow-labourers in that harvest of souls belonging to his charge,

and whom wee knew wanted such as we were newly come from _Spain_ to

oppose the Criolians or Natives faction in that Province; alleadging

furthermore the example of our friend and companion _Peter Borallo_,

whom hee had already incorporated into that province, and could doe

no lesse with us without partiality and acceptation of persons. And

lastly, my opinion was, that in case wee ought not to be entertained

there, yet the Provinciall would not send us back to _Mexico_, there

to be disgraced and affronted, but would give way unto us to returne

to _Spain_, or whither else wee would, with some relief and mony

in our purses. Whilst wee were thus troubled, and in this sad and

serious discourse, old _Alvarez_ it seemes had been eying of us from

his window, and as _Joseph_ could not long suppresse and keep in the

expressions of a loving and tender heart unto his brethren; so this

good Superior perceiving that we were troubled with what he had said

unto us, sent his companion unto us to comfort us; which wee easily

perceived by his discourse when hee came unto us. For as soone as hee

came hee asked us why wee were so sad and melancholy? hee told us, the

Provinciall also had observed that wee were troubled. But, said hee,

bee of good cheare; bee confident that the Provinciall wisheth you very

well, and needeth such as you are, and having come into his Dominion

to thrust your selves upon his mercy, by harsh and unkind usage hee

will not doe what Martiall Law forbids a hard hearted Souldier to doe

unto his enemy upon such termes. Many such comfortable words did he

speak unto us; and told us further that the Provinciall had been much

censured by the Criolian party for entertaining of _Peter Borallo_; and

that now they would stir worse seeing four more come to weaken their

faction; and therefore hee desired to bee well advised concerning us,

and to carry our businesse with such discretion, as might give little

offence to those who were apt to judge and censure the best of all

his actions. And finally hee did assure us, that wee should never bee

sent back as prisoners to _Mexico_ by the Provinciall, who in case hee

could not entertaine us in _Chiapa_, or _Guatemala_, would further us

with all his favour, and friends, and money in our purses to return

againe to _Spain_. These reasons were heart fainting Cordials unto us,

and stomack preparatives to a good dinner, to which by the sound of

a bell wee were invited. When wee came in, the loving, smiling, and

fatherly countenance of the good Provinciall did chear us more then

all the cheare that waited for us upon the table in severall dishes,

all which were seasoned to our palates with the sauce of the comfort,

which the Provincials messenger had brought unto us in the shady Orange

walke in the garden. The great provision of fish and flesh, with fruits

and sweet meats were yet to us a strong argument that wee were very

welcome; for what wee fed on that day, might well become a Noble mans

Table; besides in many passages of our discourse wee perceived that

good old _Alvarez_ his heart was overjoyed with our comming to him.

Dinner being ended the Provinciall desired to play a game at Tables

with us round about, saying hee would not win our money, because hee

judged us poore after so long a journey. But thus hee setled the game

and sport; that if he did win, we should say for him five _Pater

Nosters_, and five _Ave Maries_; but if wee wun, wee should win our

admittance, and Incorporation into that Province. This sport pleased

us well, for our winnings wee judged would be to us more profitable

at that time, then to winne pounds, and our loosings we valued not;

besides wee were confident all went well with us, when from the favour

of the Dice, wee might challenge that favour which with many weary

journeys wee had come to seek above foure hundred miles. The sport

began, and wee young blades taking one by one our turnes were too

hard for the old man, who (as wee perceived) would willingly bee the

loser, that his very losses might speak unto us what through policy and

discretion hee would not utter with words. Yet wee boldly challenged

our winnings, which as soone as wee had ended our game were now surely

confirmed unto us by the returne of an _Indian_ messenger, who that

morning had been sent to the City of _Chiapa_ for advice and counsell

from the Prior and the chiefe of the Cloister concerning our disposal,

and now was returned with an answer from the Prior, who in his letter

expressed great joy unto the Provinciall for our comming, and so from

the rest of the Seniors of the Cloister, and did earnestly begge of

the Superiour, that hee would send us to him to bee his guests, for

that our case had beene his owne some ten yeers before, for hee had

also at _Mexico_ forsaken his company to _Philippinas_, and fled to

_Guatemala_, where for his learning and good parts hee had been as a

stranger much envied by the Criolian faction; but now hee hoped hee

should have some to side with him against such as spighted and maligned

him. Old _Alvarez_ was much taken with his letter, and told us hee

must pay what hee had lost, and that the next day he would send us to

_Chiapa_, there to abide untill hee tooke further care of us, to send

us to other parts of the Country, to learne the _Indian_ languages,

that wee might preach unto them. This discourse being ended wee betooke

our selves again to the Garden which smelled more of comfort then

before dinner, and to our shady walks which now offered us a safer

protection then they had done in the forenoone, countenancing that

protection which we had gained from the Provinciall.

Here we began to praise God, who had looked upon us in our low estate,

not forgetting the wise and politick Provinciall, who though hee had

lost his games for our comfort, wee would not hee should lose our

prayers, which there wee offered up to God for his health and safety.

And so till supper time wee continued our discourse in the Garden

fuller of mirth and pleasant jests, then wee had done before dinner,

snatching now and then at the Oranges and Lemmons, which were there

both sowre and sweet, eating of some, and casting some one at another,

but especially at him who had wished himselfe with _Calvo_ dressing

his rusty Bacon, whom we strived to beat out of the garden by force of

Orange and Lemmon bullets; which sport we continued the more willingly,

because wee perceived the good Provinciall stood behind a Lattice in

a Balcony beholding us, and rejoycing to see our hearts so light and

merry. Wee had no sooner beat _Calvo_ his friend out of the garden,

when the bell to supper sounded a retreat to us all, and called us

again to meet our best friend _Alvarez_, who had furnished us a Table

againe like that at noone. After supper hee told us that the next

morning hee would send us to _Chiapa_, for that the Prior had writ unto

him he would meet us in the way with a Breakfast at a Towne called St.

_Philip_; wherewith wee conceited very highly of our selves to see

that Provincialls and Priors were so forward to feast us. Yet before

we went to bed, the Provinciall would try again a game at Tables with

every one of us, to see if now hee could beat us that had been too

hard for him at noon. The matter of our game was now altered, and what

we played for was this; if the Provinciall wun, wee were to bee his

Prisoners, (which mystery wee understood not till the next day, for the

old man was crafty and Politick, and knew hee could winne of us when

he listed, for hee was an excellent gamester at Tables) but if wee wun

of him, hee was to give us a box of _Chocolatte_, which was a drinke

wee liked very well. The Game went on, and wee every one of us one by

one were losers, yet understood not how wee should bee his Prisoners,

but slighted our losses. Yet for all this the merry Provinciall told

us, hee was sory wee had lost, and wished wee might never bee prisoners

to a worse enemie then hee; and that wee should perceive it, hee would

comfort us each one as a Prisoner with a box of _Chocolatte_, to drinke

for his sake, and to comfort our hearts, when most wee should find them

discomforted for our losses. Wee understood not his meaning till the

next day at noone, but thought it was a jest and a word of sport and

mirth, like many such like which in his discourse had come from him.

With this wee tooke our leaves, and went to bed with light and merry

hearts. In the morning two Mules of the Provinciall and two of his

Companion were sadled for us, and at least a dozen _Indians_ on horse

back waited for us to conduct us up a steepy hill and through woods to

the Towne of St. _Philip_. After our breakfast the good Provinciall

imbraced us, and bad us farewell, desiring us to pray for him; and not

to bee discouraged by any thing that might befall us, assuring us hee

wished us very well, and would doe what lay in his power for our good;

yet so, that hee must use policy and discretion to stop the mouths of

the Criolians, whom hee knew hated both him and us. Thus we departed

with Waits and Trumpets sounding before us, which rebounded an Echo

all the way up the hill from us to old _Alvarez_ whom we had left in a

low bottome compassed about with hils on every side. Wee had no sooner

ascended up to the top of the Mountaine, when we discovered a little

Valley, and in it the City of _Chiapa_ of the _Spaniards_; with two or

three small Villages, of which one was St. _Philip_ at the bottom of

the Mountaine, which we were to descend. The Trumpets which still went

sounding before us were a sufficient and loud Alarme to St. _Philips_

Inhabitants of our coming, and a warning for the speedier hastening of

our second breakfast, for the which the cold morning aire (which wee

found somewhat piercing upon the Mountaine) had whetted and through

prepared our stomacks. We had not got down the Mountaine halfe a mile,

when wee met with a matter of twenty gallant _Indians_ on horse-back

with their trumpeters sounding before them, and behind them came upon

a stately Mule the Prior of _Chiapa_, (whose name was Father _John

Baptist_) a merry fat Fryer, who calling us his brethren fugitives

from _Philippinas_, told us wee were welcome to that country, and to

him especially, and that in the next St. _Philip_ he would shew us

better sport, then any _St. Philip_ in all the _Philippinas_ Islands

could have shewed us, if wee had gone thither. Thus with a pleasant

discourse, and many merry conceits from the good Prior wee soone came

downe the hill, where the whole Village of St. _Philip_ waited for us

both men and women, some presenting unto us nosegaies, others hurling

Roses and other flowers in our faces, others dancing before us all

along the street, which was strowed with herbes and Orange leaves, and

adorned with many Arches made with flowers and hung with garlands for

us to ride under untill wee came to the Church, where for halfe an

houre wee were welcomed with the best musick from the City of _Chiapa_,

which the Prior had hired to come with him to entertaine us. Our Musick

being ended, fat Father _John Baptist_ stood up and made a short speech

unto the _Indians_, giving them thankes for their kind and pompous

entertainment of us his speciall friends, and that their soules might

gaine by it, hee granted unto them a plenary indulgence of all their

sinnes past to bee gained by as many of them as should visit that

Church the next Lords Day either before or afternoon. And thus from the

Altar wee went unto our breakfasting Table, which was furnished with

many well seasoned dishes of salt and well peppered and spiced meats,

all fit to make us relish better a cup of _Spanish Pier Ximeny_ which

the Prior had provided for us. After our salt meats, came such rare and

exquisite sorts of sweet meats made by _John Baptist_ his best devoted

Nuns of _Chiapa_, that the like wee had not seen from St. _John de

Ulhua_ to that place. These were to prepare our stomacks for a Cup of

_Chocolatte_, with the which we ended our breakfast. But whilst all

this was gallantly performed by the Prior, it was a hard Riddle unto

us, what hee often repeated unto us saying, Brethren break your fast

well, for your dinner will be the meanest as ever yee did eate in your

lives, and now enjoy this sweet liberty which will not last long unto

you. Wee observed the words, but knew not what to make of them, till

wee came unto the Cloister. After our breakfast the _Indians_ shewed

us a little sport in the Market place, running races on horse-back,

and playing at _Juego de Canna's_; which is to meet on horseback, with

broad Targets to defend their heads and shoulders while passing by they

hurle Canes, or darts one at another, which those _Indians_ acted with

great dexterity.

Thus the good Prior of _Chiapa_ feasted us, and permitted us to injoy

our liberty as long as it seemes it had beene agreed upon by letters

between him and the Provinciall, which was till it might be dinner time

in the Cloister of _Chiapa_, where wee were to bee before noone. The

time drew neere, and we had from St. _Philip_ to the City of _Chiapa_

some two _English_ miles to ride; Wherefore the Prior commanded our

Mules to bee brought; the waits and trumpets gave warning to the Town

of our departure; and so with many horsemen, with dances, Musick and

ringing of Bells wee were as stately and joyfully conducted out of

the Town, as wee had been inducted into it. At the first halfe miles

end the Prior gave thankes unto the _Indians_, and desired them to

return, the Cloister being neer where wee expected another kinde of

entertainment, not using in the City and Cloister that pompe and state,

which in the Country might bee allowed. The _Indians_ tooke their

leaves of us; and on we went with onely two as guides before us. Within

halfe a mile of the City, the Prior and a companion of his stopped,

and tooke out of his pocket an order from the Provinciall, which he

read unto us, to this effect, That whereas we had forsaken our lawfull

Superior _Calvo_ in the way to _Philippinas_, and without his licence

had come unto the Province of _Chiapa_, hee could not in conscience

but inflict some punishment upon us before he did enable us to abide

there as members under him; therefore hee did strictly command the

Prior of _Chiapa_, that as soone as wee should enter into his Cloister,

hee should shut us up two by two in our chambers, as in prisons, for

three daies, not suffering us to goe out to any place, save onely to

the publick place of refection (called Refectory) where all the Fryers

met together to dine and sup, where at noon time we were to present

our selves before all the Cloister sitting upon the bare ground, and

there to receive no other dinner, but only bread and water; but at

supper we might have in our chambers, or Prisons, what the Prior would

be pleased to allow us. This was the Penance enjoined upon us by the

wise and cunning Provinciall. This newes at the first was but sowre

sawce, or a dry Postpast after a double sumptuous breakfast; it was

a dolefull ditty to us after our Musick, and dances, to heare of a

treble fast after our feast; to heare of imprisonment after so great

liberty. We now began to remember the Provincialls winnings at Tables

the night before, and the mystery thereof, and began to thinke how

comfortable his boxes of _Chocolatte_ would be unto us after a meale

of bread and water. Now wee called to minde the short dinner the Prior

had told us at St. _Philips_ wee were like to have that day, and of

the liberty hee bad us then make much of. But the good Prior seeing

us sad upon a suddaine, and our countenances changed, smiled upon us,

wishing us not to thinke the worse of him, nor of the Provinciall, who

did that out of Policy, and to stop the Criolians mouths, whom he knew

would murmur, if no punishment were inflicted upon us. Hee assured

us, after our imprisonment, of honours and preferments, and that as

long as wee were with him, wee should want no incouragement; and that

after a bread and water dinner hee could send us to our chambers a

Supper, that should strongly support our empty stomacks, and furre

and line them well for the next foure and twenty houres. With these

incouragements on wee went to the Cloister of _Chiapa_, where wee were

welcomed by most of the Fryers, but in some few wee noted a frowning

and disaffected countenance. We were no sooner conducted to our

chambers, when the bell sounded to dinner for the rest, and cryed aloud

to us Penance with bread and water. Downe wee went to the common dining

place, and thanks being given, the Fryers sitting round the tables, wee

foure _Philippinian Jonahs_ (so some Criolians were pleased to term

us) betook our selves to the middle of the Refectory, where without

cushions, stooles, seats or forms, wee sate upon the bare ground crosse

legged like Tailors, acting humility now for our disobedience unto

slovenly _Calvo_. While the first dish was presented round the tables,

to each of us was presented a loafe of reasonable bignesse, and a pot

of pure Crystall water, whereof wee fed and dranke most heartily though

with full stomacks from a double breakfast before. Yet even here in

this publick Act of shame and disgrace (which wee knew was usuall among

Fryers for lesse faults then ours) we had this comfort, that we had a

Prior and Provinciall for friends, and that that punishment came from a

friendly hand, whose Chocolatte wee had to comfort our fasting bodies;

and secondly, wee knew that wee should have that night in our prison

chambers a better supper than any of those before us, who fed upon

their three or foure dishes. But thirdly, it was our comfort that at

that very time a Criolian Frier also sate upon the ground with us (of

whose company we had been informed by some friends before wee went into

the refectory) for some love letters which had been intercepted between

him and a Nun of that City, tending to much uncivility, and breaking

their oath of professed chastity. But when I perceived this Frier to

looke discontentedly upon us, I chose my place as neer unto him as I

could, and hearing him mutter within himselfe against us, calling us

disobedient _Philippinian Jonahs_, I softly and friendly spoke unto him

with these two following Hexameters, which suddenly came unto my mind

about his misdemeanor.

_Si Monialis Amor te turpia scribere fecit,

Ecce tibi frigidæ præhent medicamina lymphæ._

But my good neighbour snuffing and puffing at my suddain muse, seemed

to be more discontented then before, and would faine withdraw himselfe

by degrees from mee, not rising up (for that was not lawfull to doe

till dinner had been ended) but wrigling his elbowes and shoulders

scornefully from me, whom in like manner I followed, cleaving friendly

to him with this verse,

_Solamen misera est socios retinere Panettes,_

Hee thought I followed him to steale away his loafe from him. This new

found word, _Panettes_, had almost choaked him, had not hee made use of

the medicinall water which stood before him; of the which he dranke a

good draught, whereby I perceived his courage against me and my friends

was tamed, and I told him, I hoped his burning wanton love was cooled.

Thus with my Criolian neighbours company my bread and water went down

cheerfully; and dinner being ended, we were again conducted to our

chambers, where we dranke a cup of old _Alvarez_ his _Chocolatte_. The

_Castilian_ Friers flocked unto our prisons, some to talke with us,

some bringing us conserves and sweet-meats, others other dainties,

which they had prepared to helpe our digestion of bread and cold water.

My suddain verses to my Criolian neighbour were presently noysed about

the Cloister, and were the chiefe subject of our talke that afternoone.

Our supper was provided for us according to the promise and generous

spirit of the Prior, who also honoured our prison that night with his

owne and two other Friers company supping with us all in one chamber

together. And thus we passed our three daies of imprisonment merrily

and contentedly, wishing we might never suffer harder usage in any

prison then we had done in this, which was not to us such a punishment

as did bring with it the privation of any liberty of enjoying the

company of friends, of feasting with them, but onely the privation of

the liberty of our legs to walke about those three daies; and this

rather an ease then a punishment, for that we wanted rather rest, then

much stirring after so long and tedious a journey as we had compassed

from _Mexico_ thither. We were no sooner set at liberty, but we

presently found the Provinciall and Prior ready to dispose of us so,

that in lieu of our imprisonment we might receive honor and credit.

Two were sent into the Country to learne some _Indian_ language, that

so they might be beneficed and preach unto the _Indians_. My selfe and

another desired to goe farther to _Guatemala_, that there we might

practise Philosophy and Divinity in the famous Universitie of that

City. Nothing that we desired was denied unto us, onely the time was

thought not fit untill _Michaelmas_, because then the schooles were

renewed, and new Orders setled. In the meane time the Provinciall

having also heard of my verses _ex tempore_ to the Criolian Frier, and

knowing that the _Latin_ tongue is better grounded in _England_ then

among the _Spaniards_ (who abuse poore _Priscian_ and daily breake his

pate with foolish soloecismes) and considering the want hee had of a

Master of the _Latine_ tongue to supply a Lecture of Grammar and Syntax

to the youthes of _Chiapa_ in a schoole in that Cloister, which brought

a sufficient yeerly stipend unto the Covent, desired me to accept

of that place untill such time as he should take care to send me to

_Guatemala_, promising me all incouragements in the meane time fitting,

and that I should when I would go about to see the Country (which I

much desired) and also that out of the schoole annuity I should have my

allowance for bookes, and other necessaries. I could not but accept of

this good offer; and so with this imployment I remained in that City

from _Aprill_ to the end of _September_, where I was much esteemed of

by the Bishop and Governour, but especially by the Prior, who would

never ride about the Country for his recreation, but he would take

me with him, whereby I had occasion to note concerning the Province,

riches, commodities, and government of _Chiapa_, what in the ensuing

Chapter I shall faithfully commend unto the Presse.

CHAP. XV.

_Describing the Countrey of_ Chiapa, _with the chiefest Townes and

Commodities belonging unto it._

Though _Chiapa_ in the opinion of the _Spaniards_ be held to be one of

the poorest Countries of _America_; because in it as yet there have

been no mines discovered, nor golden sands found in the rivers, nor

any haven upon the South-sea, whereby commodities are brought in and

carried out, as to _Mexico, Guaxaca_ and _Guatemala_; yet I may say it

exceedeth most Provinces in the greatness and beauty of fair Towns,

and yeeldeth to none except it be to _Guatemala_; nay it surpasseth

all the rest of _America_ in that one, and famous and most populous

Towne of _Chiapa_ of the _Indians_. And it ought not to be so much

slighted by the _Spaniards_ as it is, if they would looke upon it as

standing between _Mexico_ and _Guatemala_, whose strength might be all

_Americaes_ strength, and whose weakenesse may prove dangerous to all

that flourishing Empire, for the easy entrance into it by the river

of _Tabasco_, or for its neer joyning and bordering unto _Jucatan_.

Besides, the commodities in it are such as doe uphold a constant

trading and commerce amongst the inhabitants themselves, and with other

neighbouring Countries, and from no one part of _America_ doth _Spaine_

get more _Cochinil_ then from one of the Provinces of _Chiapa_; the

Townes also being great and populous, by their yeerly pole tribute do

adde much to the King of _Spaines_ revenues.

This Country is divided into three Provinces, to wit, _Chiapa,

Zeldales_, and _Zoques_; whereof _Chiapa_ it selfe is the poorest.

This containes the great Towne of _Chiapa_ of the _Indians_, and all

the Townes and farmes North-ward towards _Maquilapa_, and West-ward

the Priory of _Comitlan_, which hath some ten Townes, and many farmes

of Cattle, Horses, and Mules subject unto it; and neighbouring unto

it lieth the great valley of _Capanabastla_, which is another Priory

reaching towards _Soconuzco_. This valley glorieth in the great river,

which hath its spring from the mountaines called _Cuchumatlanes_, and

runneth to _Chiapa_ of the _Indians_, and from thence to _Tabasco_. It

is also famous for the abundance of fish, which the river yeeldeth,

and the great store of Cattell which from thence minister food and

provision both to the City of _Chiapa_, and to all the adjacent

Townes. Though _Chiapa_ the City, and _Comitlan_ as standing upon the

hils, bee exceeding cold, yet this valley lying low is extraordinary

hot, and from _May_ to _Michaelmas_ is subject to great stormes and

tempests of thunder and lightning. The head Towne where the Priory

stands, is called _Capanabastla_, consisting of above eight hundred

_Indian_ inhabitants. But greater than this is _Izquintenango_ at the

end of the valley and at the foot of the mountaines of _Cuchumatlanes_

Southward. And yet bigger then this is the Towne of _St. Bartholomew_

Northward at the other end of the valley, which in length is about

fourty miles, and ten or twelve onely in breadth. All the rest of the

Townes lie towards _Soconuzco_, and are yet hotter and more subject

to thunder and lightning, as drawing neerer unto the South-sea coast.

Besides the abundance of cattell, the chiefe commoditie of this valley

consisteth in Cotton-wooll, whereof are made such store of mantles for

the _Indians_ wearing, that the Merchants far and neer come for them.

They exchange them to _Soconuzco_ and _Suchutepeques_ for _Cacao_,

whereby they are well stored of that drinke. So that the inhabitants

want neither fish (which they have from the river) nor flesh (for

that the valley abounds with Cattell) nor clothing (for of that they

spare to others) nor bread, though not of wheat, for there growes

none; but _Indian_ Maiz they have plenty of; and besides they are

exceedingly stored with fowles and Turkeys, fruits, Hony, Tobacco and

Sugar-canes. Neither is mony here nor in _Chiapa_ so plentifull as in

_Mexico_ and _Guaxaca_; and whereas there they reckon by Patacones,

or pieces of Eight; here they reckon by Tostones which are but halfe

Patacones. Though the river be many waies profitable to that valley,

yet it is cause of many disasters to the inhabitants, who lose many

times their children, and their Calves and Colts drawing neere to

the water-side, where they are devoured by Caymanes, which are many

and greedy of flesh, by reason of the many prizes they have got. The

City of _Chiapa Real_, is one of the meanest Cities in all _America_,

consisting of not above four hundred housholders _Spaniards_, and

about an hundred houses of _Indians_ joyning to the City, and called

_el barrio de los Indios_, who have a Chappell by themselves. In this

City there is no Parish Church, but onely the Cathedrall, which is

mother to all the inhabitants. Besides, there are two Cloisters, one

of Dominicans, and the other of Franciscans, and a poore Cloister of

Nuns, which are burdensome enough to that City. But the Jesuites having

got no footing there (who commonly live in the richest and wealthiest

places and Cities) is a sufficient argument of either the poverty of

that City, or of want of gallant parts, and prodigality in the gentry,

from whose free and generous spirits they like Horse-leeches are still

sucking extraordinary and great almes for the Colledges where they

live; but here the Merchants are close handed, and the Gentlemen hard,

and sparing, wanting of wit and Courtiers parts and bravery, and so

poore _Chiapa_ is held no fit place for Jesuites. The Merchants chiefe

trading there is in _Cacao_, Cotton-wool from the adjacent parts of the

Country, in Pedlers small wares, and in some Sugar from about _Chiapa_

of the _Indians_, in a little _Cochinil_; for commonly the Governour

(whose chiefe gaine consisteth in this) will not suffer them to be

too free in this commoditie, lest they hinder his greedy traffique.

These have their shops all together in a little Market-place before

the Cathedrall Church, built with walkes and Porches, under which the

poore _Indian_ wives meet at five a clock at evening to sell what

slap and drugges they can prepare most cheape for the empty Criolian

stomackes. The richer sort of these Merchants go and send yet further

to _Tabasco_ for wares from _Spaine_, such as wines, Linnen cloth,

Figs, Raisins, Olives, and Iron, though in these commodities they

dare not venture too much, by reason the _Spaniards_ in that Country

are not very many, and those that are there, are such as are loath to

open their purses to more then what may suffice nature. So that what

are _Spanish_ commodities are chiefly brought for the Friers who are

the best and joviallest blades of that Countrey. The Gentlemen of

_Chiapa_ are a by-word all about that Country, signifying great Dons

(_dones_, gifts or abilities I should say) great birth, phantasticke

pride, joyned with simplicity, ignorance, misery and penury. These

Gentlemen will say they descend from some Dukes house in _Spain_, and

immediately from the first Conquerors; yet in carriage they are but

clownes, in wit, abilities, parts and discourse as shallow brained,

as a low brooke, whose waters are scarce able to leap over a pibble

stone; any small reason soone tries and tires their weak braine, which

is easily at a stand when sense is propounded, and slides on speedily

when non-sense carrieth the streame. The chiefe families in this City,

are named, _Cortez, Solis, Velasco, Toledo, Zerna_, and _Mendoza_. One

of these, who was thought the chiefe in my time, called _Don Melchor de

Velasco_, one day fell into discourse with mee concerning _England_,

and our _English_ nation, and in the best, most serious and judicious

part of his Don-like conference, asked me whether the sun and moone in

_England_ were of the same colour as in _Chiapa_, and whether _English_

men went barefoot like the _Indians_, and sacrificed one another as

formerly did the Heathens of this Countrey? and whether all _England_

could afford such a dainty as a dish of Frixoles (which is the poorest

_Indians_ daily food there, being black and dry Turkey or French beanes

boyled with a little biting Chille or _Indian_ pepper with garlicke,

till the broath become as black as any Inke)? And whether the women

in _England_ went as long with child, as did the _Spanish_ women? And

lastly, whether the _Spanish_ nation were not a farre gallanter nation

then the _English_? When I perceived my Don ran farther and farther

into his simple and foolish questions, I cut him off suddenly, telling

him, Sir, It is long since I came out of _England_, if you give me

leave to recollect my memory, I will answer some of these your hard

questions the next time we meet (thinking hereby to try my Dons wit

further, whether he could perceive I jeared him.) To which my simple

Don replyed, I pray Sir doe, and whensoever you come, you shall be

welcome to a dish of Frixoles. With this I tooke my leave of him, and

at our farewell, he againe desired mee to study well his questions,

and to return him a speedy answer, whereby I was more confirmed in

my conceit of my _Don_, that he was either _tonto_ or _bobo_, foole

or simple. Yet thought I my best way to answer is to answer a fool

according to his folly, and so resolved within two or three daies to

return unto him some simple answer according to his simple and foolish

questions. Therefore speedily I singled out a good occasion of meeting

with him at his own house, who welcomed me with much _Spanish_ gravity,

and sitting down before _Donna Angela_, his painted wife and Angel;

began to answer, or more to jeer his _Donship_. I began with the Sun

and Moon, telling him that they were planets, & had their speciall

influences upon severall nations, as all planets have upon mans body.

And so they did shew themselves according to the inclination of the

people of severall Kingdomes. And therefore as the _Spaniards_ were

much inclined to _Venus_ and to beauty, and not contenting themselves

with the naturall beauty of their faire Ladies, would yet have Art

add to nature by the skill and use of the best painting colours; so

these glorious planets of the Sun and Moon among the _Spaniards_, and

especially in _Chiapa_, shewed themselves most comely, bright, glorious

and beautifull, working the like inclination to beauty upon, and in

all _Spaniards_. My instance was in the land of the Blackmores, where

I told them that their bodies were black, and that among them the

Sun appeared with a dark and sad visage. Here my _Don_ cried out; An

excellent example. I gave him yet a second instance from the Eclipse

of the Sun; which being eclipsed, made all the Earth, mens faces and

bodies seeme of a darke, or yellow colour, to shew the proportion or

sympathy of sublunary bodies to that high and overmastering planet.

To this that good _Don_ replyed; _sennor no se puede decir mas_, sir,

nothing can be answered or said more or better. _Vengamos agora a

Ingalatierra_, Let us draw now to _England_. To which I answered him,

that in _England_ the Sun and Moon appeared halfe yeer of one colour,

and half of another; for the women one half yeer it appeared as in

_Spain_ and _Chiapa_, beautifull and glorious, for that naturally

without painting they yeelded to none in beauty. But the other half

yeer it appeared as red as blood, or scarlet; and the reason might

easily bee guessed at, for that no Nation is more warlik and high

spirited then the _English_, whose very clothes were fiery, wearing

more scarlet then any nation in the World; as hee might perceive by

their coming so much with their ships to the _Indian_ Coasts to fight

with the _Spaniards_; and that as they delighted to goe in red, and

to bee like the Sun, so naturally they were brought to those Seas to

single out such ships as from _America_ carried the rich Commodity

of _Cochinill_, whereof they make more use then _Spain_ it selfe to

die their cloaths and Coats withall. Here my _Don_ jogged his head,

and replyed; Sir, I thought no nation had been so like the Sun as the

_Spaniards_; for I have read that when our Ancestors came to conquer

these parts, the _Indians_ called them, _hijos del Sol_, that is, sons

of the Sun, being comely and gallant, and more like the Sun then any

other people. To this I answered him. Sir, no doubt but you are like

the Sun here, and none more glittering and bright, your very hatbands

shining with Pearls and Diamonds like the brightnesse of the Sun; But

as I said before the Blackmores are like their Sun, so I say, the

_English_ is like their Sun, which is red, and so doe and will affect

to wear Scarlet, as long as any _Cochinill_ is to be found in the

_India's_.

Now _Don Melchor_ began to understand mee, and told mee, never man

had satisfied him with better reasons then my self. Hee thanked mee

heartily, and told mee, hee thought no Gentleman in _Chiapa_ could

tell so well as himself now why the _English_ ships came so much

upon their Coasts; and that my discourse had satisfied him to the

full. Hee desired mee to goe on to his other questions. To his second

demanding whether the _English_ went barefoot like the _Indians_, I

told him I thought that the Count of _Gondomar_, (who had been many

yeers Ambassadour from _Spain_ in _England_) had satisfied all the

_Spaniards_ that doubt, who coming from _England_ to _Madrid_, and

being there asked by some Courtiers, whether _London_ was as big as

_Madrid_, and as well peopled; he made answer, that hee thought there

was scarce a hundred left in _London_. Hee proved it from the use and

custome of his own Countrymen of _Spain_; who when they are to make a

journey, shew themselves two or three daies before in colours, walking

with boots and spurs, that their friends may take notice that they are

departing out of the Towne or City. So said the Count of _Gondomar_,

I think by this there are very few People in _London_; for when I

came from thence I left them all almost in cloaths of colours, booted

and spurred as ready to depart and take some journey. And truely my

_Don_ (quoth I) your owne Count hath answered for mee; yet I say, the

_English_ are so farre from going barefoot, that they goe booted, and

are all in a readinesse to move out of _England_ for any noble and

generous designe; but above all they are still ready for _America_,

where they know is store and abundance of Hydes to make them Bootes to

cover the barenesse of their legges, that they may not be suspected

to be like bare-footed _Indians_. Here _Don Melchor_ replyed, I pray

sir, when they come by Sea to these parts doe they come also booted

and spurred? For I should thinke, when they fight, their Spurs should

hinder them. To this his doubt I answered first, as concerning spurres

in the ships, with the example of one of his own Nation, and of the

best Divines in _Spain_, living in my time in _Valladolid_, called

_Maestro Nunno_, (Reader of Divinity in the Colledge of St. _Gregorie_,

but in his carriage and experience in the World a simple noddy) who

being invited by a Noble man to goe with him in his Coach out of the

City a mile or two to a garden of recreation, went hastily about the

Colledge to borrow boots and spurs; and when he had put them on, being

asked whither he went, and why he put on boots and spurs, answered

that he was to goe in a Coach out of the City, and that hee thought

the Coach and Mules would want spurs to goe and come the sooner. Even

so my _Don_ (quoth I) the _English_ men come booted and spurred in

their ships, to make their ships sail on the swifter. And this is the

reason why the _English_ ships saile faster, and when they are in fight

turn about quicker then a _Spanish_ Galeon, because they are spurred

& kicked within. O Sir, I humbly thank you (said _Don Melchor_) for

that by your discourse now I know the truth of what indeed I have often

heard say, that the _English_ ships are nimbler, and quicker at Sea

then our heavy Galeons. Now as for fighting the _English_ mens spurs

(said I) are no hinderance to them, but rather a great advantage.

For they fight with weapons, with their hands and with their feet,

wherein they exceed the _Spaniards_; for when they have shot with

their peeces, or cut down with their swords any enemy, or knocked

him with their holbards, then with their feet and spurres, they fall

upon him, and so soone rid him out of the way, that hee may no more

rise up against them. All you have told mee (said the wise _Velazco_)

stands with so much reason, that my judgment is convinced by you. As

for eating and sacrificing one another like the _Indians_ (I told him)

that the _English_ filled their bellies so well with fat Beef and

Mutton, fowles, Rabbits, Partridges and Pheasants, that they had no

stomacke at all to mans flesh. And that truly for frixoles dressed with

garlick, that onely daintie dish was wanting in _England_; and that

for Garlick, three reasons moved the _English_ not to bee lavishing of

that little they had; first, for feare they should want it for their

horses drenches; secondly, for that they felt not themselves so much

troubled with the wind, nor puffed up with windy and vaine conceits

as other nations did; but thirdly and chiefly they refrained from it

among themselves, that they might not smell of it, and that by the

sent and smell of it a farre off at Sea they might when they came to

the Coast of _America_, smell out a _Spanish_ ship, and know it from

a _Hollander_. Here my _Don Melchor_ fell into admiration, assuring

mee, hee had never heard more solid reasons from any man. Alas poore

Criolian of _Chiapa_ (thought I) if I had spoken sense, thy shallow

braine had not beene able to have leaped over it, but after non-sense

thou art easily carried away. As for his last question, I told him that

was above my reach, for that poore Fryers ought not to meddle with

women, neither had my mother ever told mee how long shee went with mee.

But how ever if _Donna Angela_ would tell mee how long shee went with

her children, I would by the constellations of the Heavens search out

against our next meeting, how long the _English_ women went with their

children. To this my _Don Melchor_ answered that he would not trouble

me to study what he thought was not belonging to my profession; but he

knew that if I would study that or any other hard & difficult point, I

could give him more & better satisfaction then any scholar in that City.

And thus (Reader) by this Don _Melchors_ wit and ability would I have

thee judge of the Gentlemen Criolians or natives of _Chiapa_; and

yet as presumptuous they are and arrogant, as if the noblest bloud

in the Court of _Madrid_ ran through their veines. It is a common

thing amongst them to make a dinner only with a dish of Frixoles

in black broath, boyled with pepper and garlicke, saying it is the

most nourishing meat in all the _India's_; and after this so stately

a dinner they will be sure to come out to the street-dore of their

houses to see and to be seen, and there for halfe an houre will they

stand shaking off the crums of bread from their cloaths, bands (but

especially from their ruffes when they used them) and from their

mustachoes. And with their tooth-pickers they will stand picking their

teeth, as if some small Partridge bone stuck in them; nay if a friend

passe by at that time, they will be sure to find out some crum or other

in their mustacho (as if on purpose the crums of the table had been

shaken upon their beards, that the losse of them might be a gaining

of credit for great house keeping) and they will be sure to vent out

some non-truth, as to say, _A Senor que linda perdiz he comido oy,_ O

Sir, what a dainty Partridge have I eat to day, where as they picke out

nothing from their teeth but a black husk of a dry frixole or Turkey

bean. Though great in blood and in birth they say they are, yet in

their imployments they are but rich Grasiers, for most of their wealth

consisteth in farmes of Cattell and Mules. Some indeed have Townes of

_Indians_ subject unto them, whereof they are called Encomendero's, and

receive yeerly from every _Indian_ a certaine Pole tribute of fowles

and mony. They have most cowardly spirits for warre, and though they

will say, they would faine see _Spaine_, yet they dare not venture

their lives at sea; they judge sleeping in a whole skin the best maxime

for their Criolian spirits. One hundred fighting souldiers would easily

lay low those _Chiapa Dons_, and gain the whole City, which lyeth so

open to the fields, that the Mules and Asses come in and grase, the

streets being very commodious to entertain Asses from within, and from

without. Yet in this City liveth commonly a Governour, or Alcalde

Major, and a Bishop. The Governours place is of no small esteem and

interest, for that his power reacheth farre, and he tradeth much in

Cacao and Cochinil, and domineers over both _Spaniards_ and _Indians_

at his will and pleasure. But ill gotten goods never thrive, as was

seen in _Don Gabriel de Orellana_ (Governour of this City and Countrey

in my time) who having sent the worth of eight thousand crownes in

Cochinil, Cacao, Sugar, and Hydes by the river of _Tabasco_ towards

the _Havana_ lost it all into the hands of the _Hollanders_, who

doubtlesse knew how to make better use of it, then would have done

that tyrannizing Governour. The Bishops place of that City is worth at

least eight thousand duckats a yeer, which truly he had need of that

comes so far from _Spain_ to live in such a City where are such able

_Dons_, as _Don Melchor de Velasco_, and where Asses are so freely fed

and bred. Most of this Bishops revenues consisteth in great offerings

which he yeerly receiveth from the great _Indian_ Townes, going out

to them once a yeer to confirme their children, whose confirmation is

such a means to confirme and strengthen the Bishops revenues, that none

must be confirmed by him who offer not a faire white Wax-candle, with

a ribban and at least foure Rials. I have seen the richer sort offer

him a Candle of at least six pound weight with two yards of twelve

penny broad ribban, and the Candle stucke from the top to the bottom

with single Rials round about. Nay the poore _Indians_ make it the

chiefe masterpiece of their vanity to offer proudly in such occasions.

_Don Bernardino de Salazar_ was the Bishop of this City in my time,

who desired my company to ride with him his circuit but one moneth,

about the Townes neer to _Chiapa_, and in this time I was appointed by

him to hold the basin wherein the _Spaniards_ and _Indians_ (whilst

he confirmed their children) did cast their offerings, which my selfe

and another Chaplaine did alwaies tell and cast up by good account

before we carried the mony up into his chamber, and I found that at

our returne at the moneths end he had received one thousand and six

hundred duckats of onely offerings, besides the fees due to him for

visiting the severall companies, or sodalities and confraternities

belonging to the Saints or soules in their purgatory (which are

extraordinary rich there) whereof he and all other Bishops in their

district take account yeerly. This Bishop was (as all the rest are

there) somewhat covetous; but otherwise a man of a temperate life and

conversation, very zealous to reforme whatsoever abuses committed in

the Church, which cost him his life before I departed from _Chiapa_ to

_Guatemala_. The women of that City it seems pretend much weakenesse

and squeamishnesse of stomack, which they say is so great, that they

are not able to continue in the Church while a Masse is briefly hudled

over, much lesse while a solemn high Masse (as they call it) is sung,

and a Sermon preached, unlesse they drinke a cup of hot Chocolatte,

and eat a bit of sweet-meats to strengthen their stomackes. For this

purpose it was much used by them to make their maids bring to them to

Church in the middle of Masse or Sermon a cup of Chocolatte, which

could not be done to all, or most of them without a great confusion

and interrupting both Masse and Sermon. The Bishop perceiving this

abuse and having given faire warning for the omitting of it, but all

without amendment, thought fit to fixe in writing upon the Churches

dores an excommunication against all such as should presume at the time

of service to eat or drinke within the Church. This excommunication

was taken by all, but especially by the Gentlewomen much to heart, who

protested if they might not eat or drinke in the Church, they could

not continue in it to heare what otherwise they were bound unto. The

chiefe of them knowing what great friendship there was between the

Bishop and the Prior, and my selfe, came to the Prior and mee desiring

us to use all meanes wee could with the Bishop for the revoking that

his excommunication so heavily laid upon them, and threatning their

soules with damning judgement for the violation of it. The good Prior

and my selfe laboured all we could, alleadging the custome of the

Countrey, the weakenesse of the sex whom it most concerned, and also

the weaknesse of their stomackes, the contempt that might from them

ensue unto his person, and many inconveniences which might follow to

the breeding of an uproar in the church and in the City, whereof we

had some probable conjecture from what already we had heard from some.

But none of these reasons would move the Bishop; to which he answered

that he preferred the honour of God, and of his house before his owne

life. The women seeing him so hard to be intreated, began to stomacke

him the more and to sleight him with scornefull and reproachfull words;

others sleighted his excommunication, drinking in iniquity in the

Church, as the fish doth water, which caused one day such an uproare

in the Cathedrall, that many swords were drawne against the Preists

and Prebends, who attempted to take away from the maids the cups of

Chocolatte, which they brought unto their mistresses; who at last

seeing that neither faire nor foule meanes would prevaile with the

Bishop, resolved to forsake the Cathedrall, where the Bishops own and

his Prebends eies must needs be watching over them; and so from that

time most of the City betooke themselves to the Cloister Churches,

where by the Nuns and Friers they were not troubled nor resisted,

though fairely counselled to obey the command of the Bishop; whose name

now they could not brooke, and to whose Prebends they denied now all

such reliefe and stipend for Masses which formerly they had used to

bestow upon them, conferring them all upon the Fryers who grew rich by

the poor impoverished Cathedrall. This lasted not long, but the Bishop

began to stomacke the Fryers, and to set up another excommunication,

binding all the City to resort unto their owne Cathedrall Church; which

the women would not obey, but kept their houses for a whole month; in

which time the Bishop fell dangerously sick, and desired to retire

himselfe to the Cloister of the Dominicans, for the great confidence

he had in the Prior that he would take care of him in his sickenesse.

Physitians were sent for far and neere, who all with a joynt opinion

agreed that the Bishop was poisoned; and he himself doubted not of

it at his death, praying unto God to forgive those that had been the

cause of it, and to accept of that sacrifice of his life, which he was

willing to offer for the zeale of Gods house and honour. He lay not

above a week in the Cloister, and as soone as he was dead, all his

body, his head and face did so swell, that the least touch upon any

part of him caused the skin to break and cast out white matter, which

had corrupted and overflowne all his body. A Gentlewoman with whom I

was well acquainted in that City, who was noted to be somewhat too

familiar with one of the Bishops Pages, was commonly censured to have

prescribed such a cup of Chocolatte to be ministred by the Page which

poysoned him who so rigorously had forbidden Chocolatte to be drunk in

the Church. My self heard this Gentlewoman say of the deceased Bishop,

that she thought few grieved for his death, & that the women had no

reason to grieve for him, and that she judged, he being such an enemy

to Chocolatte in the Church, that which he had drunk at home in his

house had not agreed with his body. And it became afterwards a Proverbe

in that Country, Beware of the Chocolatte of _Chiapa_; which made me

so cautious, that I would not drinke afterwards of it in any house,

where I had not very great satisfaction of the whole Family. The women

of this City are somewhat light in their carriage, and have learned

from the Devill many entising lessons and baits to draw poore soules

to sinne and damnation; and if they cannot have their wills, they wil

surely work revenge either by Chocolatte or Conserves, or some faire

present, which shall surely carry death along with it. The Gentlewoman

that was suspected (nay was questioned for the death of the Bishop)

had often used to send me boxes of Chocolatte or conserves; which I

willingly received from her, judging it to be a kind of gratuity for

the paines I tooke in teaching her son _Latin_. She was of a very

merry and pleasant disposition, which I thought might consist without

sin; untill one day she sent unto mee a very faire plantin wrapped up

in a hankerchief, buried in sweet Jazmines and roses; when I untied

the handkerchief, I thought among the flowers I should find some rich

token, or some peeces of eight, but finding nothing but a plantin, I

wondred; and looking further upon it, I found worked upon it with a

knife the fashion of a heart with two of blind Cupids arrows sticking

in it, discovering unto my heart the poisoned heart and thoughts of

the poisoner that sent it. I thought it a good warning to be wary and

cautious of receiving more presents or Chocolatte from such hands, and

so returned unto her againe her plantin with this short rhyme cut out

with a knife upon the skinne _fruta tan fria, amor no cria_, as much

as to say, fruit so cold, takes no hold. This answer and resolution of

mine was soone spread over that little City, which made my Gentlewoman

outragious, which presently she shewed by taking away her sonne from

schoole, and in many meetings threatning to play me a _Chiapaneca_

tricke. But I remembred the Bishops Chocolatte and so was wary, and

staid not long after in that poisoning and wicked City, which truly

deserves no better relation then what I have given of the simple

_Dons_, and the Chocolatte-confectioning _Donna's_.

There is yet twelve leagues from this City of _Chiapa_, another

_Chiapa_ which deserveth better commendations. This consisteth most

of _Indians_, and is held to be one of the biggest _Indian_ Townes in

all _America_, containing at least four thousand families. This Towne

hath many priviledges from the King of _Spain_, and is governed chiefly

by _Indians_ (yet with subordination unto the _Spanish_ government of

the City of _Chiapa_) who doe choose an _Indian_ Governour with other

inferiour officers to rule with him. This Governour may wear a rapier

and dagger, and enjoyeth many other liberties which to the rest of the

_Indians_ are denied. No Towne hath so many _Dons_ in it of _Indian_

blood as this. _Don Philip de Guzman_ was Governour of it in my time,

a very rich _Indian_, who kept up commonly in his stable a dozen of as

good Horses for publike shewes, and ostentation as the best _Spaniard_

in the Countrey. His courage was not inferiour to any _Spaniard_,

and for defence of some priviledges of his Town sued in the Chancery

of _Guatemala_ the proud and high minded Governour of the City of

_Chiapa_, spending therein great sums of money till he had overcome

him, whereupon he caused a feast to be made in the Towne, both by water

and land, so stately, that truly in the Court of _Madrid_ it might have

been acted.

This Towne lyeth upon a great river, whereunto belong many boats and

Canoas, wherein those _Indians_ have been taught to act sea-fights,

with great dexterity, and to represent the Nymphes of _Parnassus,

Neptune, Æolus_, and the rest of the heathenish Gods and Goddesses, so

that they are a wonder of their whole nation. They will arme with their

boats a siege against the Town, fighting against it with such courage

til they make it yeeld, as if they had been trained up all their life

to sea-fights. So likewise within the Town they are as dexterous at

baiting of buls, at _juego de Cannas_, at Horse-races, at arming a

Campe, at all manner of _Spanish_ dances, instruments, and musick as

the best _Spaniards_. They will erect Towers and Castles made of wood

and painted cloth, & from them fight either with the boats or one

against another, with squibs, darts, and many strange fire-works, so

manfully, that if in earnest they could perform it as well as they do

it in sport and pastime, the _Spaniards_ and Fryers might soon repent

to have taught them what they have. As for acting of playes, this is

a common part of their solemne pastimes; and they are so generous,

that they nothing think too much to spend in banquets & sweet-meats

upon their Friers, and neighbouring Towns, whensoever they are minded

to shew themselves in a publike feast. The Towne is very rich, & many

_Indians_ in it that trade about the Country as the _Spaniards_ do.

They have learned most trades befitting a Common-wealth, and practise

and teach them within their Town. They want not any provision of fish

or flesh, having for the one that great river joyning unto their

Towne, and for the other many Estantia's (as they call them) or farmes

abounding with cattell. In this Towne the Dominican Fryers bear all

the sway, who have a rich and stately Cloister with another Church

or Chappel subordinate unto it. The heat here is so great, that both

Fryers and _Indians_ commonly wear a linnen towel about their necks to

wipe off the constant swet from their laces, which maketh the Friers

sit longer at their dinner then els they would do, for that at every

bit they eate, and draught they drinke, they are faine to make a stop

to wipe their dropping browes. Yet the evenings are fresh and cool,

which are much made of there, and spent in the many walkes and gardins

which joyne close unto the River side. Two or three leagues from the

Towne, there are two _Ingenio's_ or Farmes of Sugar, the one belonging

to the Cloister of the Dominicans of the City of _Chiapa_; the other

unto the Cloister of this Towne, which containe neer two hundred

Blackmores, besides many _Indians_, who are imployed in that constant

worke of making Sugar for all the Country. Hereabouts are bread great

store of Mules, and excellent horses for any service. The Towne of

_Chiapa_ of the _Indians_, and all the Townes about it want nothing

but a more temperate climate and cooler aire, and Wheat, which there

cannot bee sowne, yet for _Spaniards_ and such as cannot live without

it, it is brought from _Chiapa_ of the _Spaniards_ and from about

_Comitlan_; yet this is not generally acknowledged a want by reason of

the great plenty of _Maiz_ which all the Townes enjoy, and which is now

more used both by _Spaniards_ and dainty toothed Fryers then bread of

Wheat. Yet your poore _Spaniards_, and some _Indians_ who have got the

trick of trading from them doe gaine not a little in bringing to these

Townes bisquets of wheaten bread, which though it be dry and hard, yet

because they are novelties to the _Indians_; they get by changing them

for other commodities, especially of Cotton wooll, which here is more

abounding then in the Valley of _Copanabastlau_.

Upon this Country of _Chiapa_ of the _Indians_ bordereth the Province

of _Zoques_, which is absolutely the richest part of _Chiapa_.

This reacheth on the one side to _Tabasco_, and by the River named

_Grijalva_ sendeth commonly the Commodities which are in it with

safety unto St. _John de Ulhua_, or _Vera Cruz_. It trafiqueth also

with the Country of _Jucatan_ by the Haven called _Puerto Real_, which

lyeth betweene _Grijalva_ and _Jucatan_. Yet these two, the River

of _Tabasco, alias Grijalva_, and _Puerto Real_, though they bee

commodious to this Province of _Zoques_, yet they are causes of daily

feares unto the _Spaniards_, who well know the weaknesse of them, and

that if a forraine Nation should manfully thrust into that Country

by any of these two wayes, they might so conquer all _Chiapa_, and

from thence passe easily unto _Guatemala_. But the River of _Tabasco_

lying low, and being somewhat hot, and the Towns about it infested

with many gnats, and the chiefest commodity there being but _Cacao_,

have often discouraged both our _English_ and _Hollanders_, who

have come up some part of the River, and minding more the foresaid

reasons, then what was forward to bee had, have turned back, losing

a rich Country and slighting an eternall name, for few and frivolous

present difficulties. In this Province of _Zoques_, the Towns are not

very bigge, yet they bee very rich; the chief Commodities are Silk

and _Cochinill_; whereof the latter is held the best of _America_,

and the store of it so great that no one Province alone exceeds it.

Few _Indians_ there are who have not their Orchards planted with the

trees whereon the worms breed which yeeld unto us that rich Commodity;

not that the _Indians_ themselves esteem otherwise of it, then as

they see the _Spaniards_ greedy after it, offering them mony for it,

& forcing them to the preservation of it in those parts, which have

proved most successeful for this kind. There is great store of silk

in this Country, in so much that the _Indians_ make it their great

Commodity to imploy their wives in working Towels with all colours of

silk, which the _Spaniards_ buy, and send into _Spain_. It is rare to

see what works those _Indian_ women will make in silk, such as might

serve for Patterns and samplers to many School-mistresses in _England_.

The people of this Country are witty, and ingenious, and faire of

complexion; the Country towards _Tabasco_ is hot, but within in some

places very cold. There is also plenty of _Maiz_, but no wheat; neither

is there such plenty of Cattell as about _Chiapa_, but Fowles and

Turkies as many as in other parts. The Province called _Zeldales_ lyeth

behind this of the _Zoques_, from the North Sea within the continent,

running up towards _Chiapa_, and reacheth in some parts neer to the

borders of _Comitlan_ north-westward. South-eastward it joyns to such

_Indians_ which as yet have not been conquered by the _Spaniards_,

who make many invasions upon the Christian _Indians_, and burn their

Towns, and carry away their Cattell. The chief and head Town in this

Province is called _Ococingo_, which is a Frontier against those

Heathens. This Province is esteemed rich for the _Spaniards_, who make

much of _Cacao_, which serveth to make their drink of _Chocolatte_,

and here is great store of it. There is also another Commodity, great

among the _Spaniards_, called _Achiotte_, wherewith they make their

_Chocolatte_ looke of the colour of a brick. Here is also plenty of

Hogs and Bacon, Fowles, Turkies, Quailes, Cattell, Sheep, Maiz, Hony,

and not farre from _Ococingo_, in my time was setting up an _Ingenio_,

or Farm of Sugar, which was thought would prove as well as those about

_Chiapa_ of the _Indians_. The Country in most parts is high and hilly;

but _Ococingo_ stands in a pleasant Valley, injoying many Brookes and

streams of fresh water, and therefore hath been thought a fit place

for Sugar. Here also in this Valley the fryers have attempted to sow

Wheat, which hath proved very good. Thus Reader, I have shewed you the

Country of _Chiapa_, which as it is compassed about on the one side by

_Soconuzco_, and from thence almost to _Guatemala_, by the Province of

_Suchutepeques_, on the other side by _Tabasco_, and on the other side

by _Zeldales_ with excessive plenty of _Cacao_ and _Achiotte_, which

are the chief drugs for the making of _Chocolatte_; I wil yet before

I depart from _Chiapa_ to _Guatemala_, say somewhat of that drinke so

much used by the _Spaniards_, and in my judgment not to be sleighted,

but rather to bee published and made known to all Nations, whose use

might remedy the great abuse of wines and strong drinks which too much

are esteemed amongst us here in _Europe_.

CHAP. XVI.

_Concerning two daily and common Drinkes, or Potions much used in the_

India's, _called Chocolatte, and Atolle._

Chocolatte being this day used not onely over all the _West-India's_,

but also in _Spain, Italy_, and _Flanders_, with approbation of

many learned Doctors in Physick, among whom _Antonio Colmenero_ of

_Ledesma_; (who lived once in the _India's_) hath composed a learned

and curious Treatise concerning the nature and quality of this drink;

I thought fit to insert here also somewhat of it concerning my own

experience for the space of twelve yeers. This name Chocolatte is an

_Indian_ name, and is compounded from Atte, as some say or as others,

Atle, which in the _Mexican_ language signifieth water, & from the

sound which the water (wherein is put the Chocolatte) makes, as Choco,

Choco, Choco, when it is stirred in a cup by an instrument called a

Molinet, or Molinillo, untill it bubble and rise unto a froath. And as

there it is a name compounded, so in _English_ wee may well call it a

compounded or a confectioned drink wherein are found many and severall

Ingredients, according to the different disposition of the body of

them that use it. But the chief Ingredient (without which it cannot be

made) is called Cacao, a kind of nut or kernell bigger then a great

Almond, which growes upon a tree called the tree of Cacao, and ripens

in a great huske, wherein sometimes are found more, sometimes lesse

Cacao's, sometimes twenty, sometimes thirty, nay forty, and above.

This Cacao, though as every simple, it containes the quality of the

foure Elements, yet in the common opinion of most Physitians, it is

held to bee cold and dry, _a prædominio_; It is also in the substance

that rules these two qualities, restringent and obstructive, of the

nature of the Element of the earth. And as it is thus a mixed, and

not a simple Element, it hath parts correspondent to the rest of the

Elements; and particularly it partakes of those which correspond with

the Element of Aire, that is, heat and moisture, which are governed by

unctious parts; there being drawn out of the Cacao much Butter, which

in the _India's_ I have seen drawn out of it by the Criolian women for

to oint their faces. And let not this seeme impossible to believe,

that this graine or nut of Cacao should bee said to bee first cold

and dry, and then hot and moist; for though experience bee a thousand

witnesses, yet instances will further clear this truth; and first in

the Rubarbe, which hath in it hot and soluble parts, and parts which

are binding, cold and dry, which have a virtue to strengthen, bind and

stop the loosenesse of the belly. Secondly, wee see this cleerly in

the steel, which having so much of the nature of the earth, as being

heavy, thick, cold, and dry, should be thought unproper for the curing

of Oppilations, but rather to bee apt to increase them; and yet it is

given for a proper remedy against them. The authority of _Galen_ may

further cleare this in the third booke of the Qualities of simples,

where hee teacheth that almost all those medicines, which to our

sense seeme to be simple, are notwithstanding naturally compounded,

containing in themselves contrary qualities, that is to say, a quality

to expell, and to retaine, to incrassate and to extenuate, to rarifie

and to condense. And in the fifteenth Chapter following in the same

booke, he puts an example of the broth of a Cock, which moves the

belly, and the flesh hath the virtue to binde. Yet further that this

differing virtue and quality is found in divers substances, or parts of

simple medicaments, he shewes in the first book of his simple medicines

in the seventeenth Chapter, bringing the example of milke, in which

three substances are found and separated, that is to say, the substance

of cheese, which hath the virtue to stop the fluxe of the belly; and

the substance of whay, which is purging, and butter, as it is expressed

Chap. 15. Also we find in wine which is in the Must, three substances,

that is to say, earth, which is the chiefe; and a thinner substance,

which is the flower, and may be called the scum, or froath; and a

third substance which we properly call wine; and every one of these

substances containes in it selfe divers qualities and virtues, in the

colour, in the smell, and in other accidents.

And this is very comformable to reason, if we consider that every

aliment, be it never so simple, begets and produceth in the liver four

humours, not only differing in temper, but also in substance; and

begets more or lesse of that humour, according as the aliment hath

more or fewer parts corresponding to the substance of that humour,

which is most ingendred. From which examples we may gather that when

the Cacao is grinded and stirred, the divers parts, which nature hath

given it, doe artificially and intimately mixe themselves one with

another; and so the unctuous, warme, and moist parts, mingled with

the earthy represseth, and leaveth them not so binding, as they were

before; but rather with a mediocrity, more inclining to the warme, and

moist temper of the aire, then to the cold and dry of the earth; as it

doth appear, when it is made fit to drink, that scarce two turnes are

given with the Molinet, when there ariseth a fatty scum, by which is

seen, how much it partaketh of the oyly part. So that from all that

hath been said, the error of those is wel discovered, who speaking of

this drink of Chocolatte, say, that it causeth oppilations, because

Cacao is astringent; as if that astriction were not corrected and

modified by the intimate mixing of one part with another, by meanes of

the grinding, as is said before. Besides it having so many ingredients,

which are naturally hot, it must of necessity have this effect, that is

to say, to open, attenuate, and not to binde. And leaving aside more

reasons, this truth is evidently seen in the Cacao it selfe; which if

it be not stirred, grinded and compounded to make the Chocolatte; but

be eaten as it is in the fruit (as many Criolian and _Indian_ women eat

it) it doth notably obstruct and cause stoppings, and make them looke

of a broken, pale and earthy colour, as doe those that eat earthen

ware, as pots, or pieces of lime-walls (which is much used among the

_Spanish_ women thinking that pale and earthy colour, though with

obstructions and stoppings, well becomes them) and for this certainly

in the Cacao thus eaten there is no other reason, but that the divers

substances which it containes, are not perfectly mingled by the

mastication onely, but require the artificiall mixture, which wee have

spoken of before.

The tree which doth beare this fruit, is so delicate, and the earth

where it groweth so extream hot, that to keep the tree from being

consumed by the sunne, they first plant other trees, which they call,

_las Madres del Cacao_, mothers of the Cacao; and when these are grown

up to a good height fit to shade the Cacao trees, then they plant the

Cacaotals, or the trees of Cacao; that when they first shew themselves

above the ground, those trees, which are already grown may shelter

them, and as mothers nourish, defend, and shadow them from the sunne;

and the fruit doth not grow naked, but many of them (as I have said

before) are in one great huske or cod, and therein besides every grain

is closed up in a white juicy skin, which the women also love to suck

off from the Cacao, finding it coole, and in the mouth dissolving into

water. There are two sorts of Cacao; the one is common, which is of a

darke colour inclining towards red, being round and peeked at the ends;

the other is broader, and bigger, and flatter, and not so round, which

they call, Patlaxte, and this is white, and more drying, and is sold a

great deal cheaper then the former. And this especially, more then the

other, causeth watchfullnesse, and drives away sleep, and therefore is

not so usefull as the ordinary, and is chiefly spent by the ordinary

and meaner sort of people. As for the rest of the ingredients which

make this Chocolatticall confection, there is notable variety; for

some put into it black Pepper, which is not well approved of by the

Physitians, because it is so hot and dry, but onely for one who hath

a very cold liver; but commonly instead of this Pepper, they put into

it long red Pepper, called Chile, which though it be hot in the mouth,

yet is cool and moist in the operation. It is further compounded

with white Sugar, Cinnamon, Clove, Anniseed, Almonds, Hasell-nuts,

_Orejuela, Bainilla, Sapayoll_, Orenge flower water, some Muske, and as

much of Achiotte, as will make it looke of the colour of a red bricke.

But how much of each of these may be applyed to such a quantity of

Cacao, the severall dispositions of mens bodies must be their rule.

The ordinary receipt of _Antonio Colmenero_ was this; To every hundred

Cacao's, two cods of Chile, called long red Pepper, one handfull of

Anniseed and _Orejuela's_, and two of the flowers called _Mechasuchil_,

or _Bainilla_, or instead of this six roses of _Alexandria_, beat to

powder, two drams of Cinnamon, of Almonds and Hasel-nuts, of each one

dozen; of white Sugar halfe a pound, of Achiotte, enough to give it

the colour. This Author thought neither Clove, nor Musk, nor any sweet

water fit, but in the _India's_ they are much used. Others use to put

in Maiz, or _Paniso_, which is very windy; but such doe it onely for

their profit, by increasing the quantity of the Chocolatte; because

every fanega or measure of Maiz containing about a bushel and a half,

is sold for eight shillings, and they that sell Chocolatte, sell it

for four shillings a pound, which is the ordinary price. The Cinnamon

is held one of the best ingredients, and denied by none, for that it

is hot and dry in the third degree, it provokes urine, and helpes the

kidneys and reines of those who are troubled with cold diseases, and it

is good for the eyes, and in effect it is cordiall, as appeareth by the

Author of these verses,

_Commoda & urinæ Cinamomum & renibus affert,

Lumina clarificat, dira venena fugat._

The _Achiotte_ hath a piercing, attenuating quality, as appeareth by

the common practice of the Physitians in the _India's_, experienced

daily in the effects of it, who do give it to their Patients to cut and

attenuate the grosse humors, which doe cause shortnesse of breath, and

stopping of urine: and so it is used for any kind of oppilations, and

is given for the stoppings which are in the breast, or in the region

of the belly, or any other part of the body. This _Achiotte_ also

groweth upon a tree in round huskes, which are full of red graines,

from whence the _Achiotte_ is taken, and first made into a paste, and

then being dried up is fashioned either into round balls or cakes,

or into the forme of little brickes, and so is sold. As concerning

the long red Pepper, there are foure sorts of it; one is called

_Chilchotes_; the other is very little, which they call _Chilterpin_,

and these two kinds are very quick and biting. The other two are

called, _Tonalchiles_, and these are but moderately hot, for they are

eaten with bread by the _Indians_, as they eat other fruits. But that

which is usually put into Chocolatte, is called _Chilpaclagua_, which

hath a broad huske, and is not so biting as the first, nor so gentle as

the last. The _Mechasuchil_, or _Bainilla_ hath a purgative quality.

All these ingredients are usually put into the Chocolatte, and by some

more, according to their fancies. But the meaner sort of people, as

_Blackmores_ and _Indians_, commonly put nothing into it, but _Cacao,

Achiotte, Maiz_, and a few _Chiles_ with a little Anniseed. And though

the _Cacao_ is mingled with all these ingredients, which are hot; yet

there is to be a greater quantity of _Cacao_, then of all the rest of

the ingredients, which serve to temper the coldnesse of the _Cacao_;

from whence it followeth that this Chocolatticall confection is not so

cold as the _Cacao_, nor so hot as the rest of the ingredients, but

there results from the action and reaction of these ingredients, a

moderate temper, which may be good, both for the cold and hot stomacks,

being taken moderately.

Now for the making or compounding of this drinke, I shall set downe

here the method. The Cacao, and the other ingredients must be beaten

in a morter of stone, or (as the _Indians_ use) ground upon a broad

stone, which they call _Metate_, and is only made for that use. But

first the ingredients are all to be dried, except the _Achiotte_,

with care that they may be beaten to powder, keeping them still in

stirring, that they be not burnt, or become black; for if they be

overdried, they will be bitter, and lose their virtue. The Cinnamon

and the long red pepper are to be first beaten, with the Anniseed, and

then the Cacao, which must be beaten by little and little, till it be

all powdred; and in the beating it must be turned round, that it may

mixe the better. Every one of these ingredients must be beaten by it

selfe, and then all be put into the vessell, where the Cacao is, which

you must stirre together with a spoon, and then take out that paste,

and put it into the morter, under which there must be a little fire,

after the confection is made; but if more fire be put under then will

only warme it, then the unctuous part will dry away. The _Achiotte_

also must be put in in the beating, that it may the better take the

colour. All the ingredients must be searsed, save onely the Cacao,

and if from the Cacao the dry shell be taken, it will be the better.

When it is well beaten, and incorporated (which will be known by the

shortnesse of it) then with a spoon (so in the _India's_ is used) is

taken up some of the paste, which will be almost liquid, and made into

tablets, or else without a spoon put into boxes, and when it is cold

it will be hard. Those that make it into tablets, put a spoonefull of

the paste upon a peece of paper (the _Indians_ put it upon the leaf

of a plantin tree) where, being put into the shade (for in the sunne

it melts and dissolves) it growes hard; and then bowing the paper or

leaf, the tablet falls off, by reason of the fatnesse of the paste.

But if it be put into anything of earth, or wood, it stickes fast,

and will not come off, but with scraping or breaking. The manner of

drinking it, is divers; the one (being the way most used in _Mexico_)

is to take it hot with Atolle, dissolving a tablet in hot water, and

then stirring and beating it in the cup, where it is to be drunke, with

a Molinet, and when it is well stirred to a scumme or froath, then to

fill the cup with hot Atolle and so drinke it sup by sup. Another way

is, that the Chocolatte, being dissolved with cold water and stirred

with the Molinet, and the scumme taken off and put into another vessel;

the remainder be set upon the fire, with as much sugar as will sweeten

it, and when it is warme, then to powre it upon the scum which was

taken off before, and so to drinke it. But the most ordinary way,

is, to warme the water very hot, and then to powre out halfe the cup

full that you mean to drinke; and to put into it a tablet or two, or

as much as will thicken reasonably the water, and then grind it well

with the Molinet, and when it is well ground and risen to a scum, to

fill the cup with hot water, and so drinke it by sups (having sweetned

it with Sugar) and to eat it with a little conserve, or maple bread,

steeped into the Chocolatte. Besides these waies there is another way

(which is much used in the Island of _Santo Domingo_) which is, to

put the Chocolatte into a pipkin, with a little water, and to let it

boyle well till it be dissolved, and then to put in sufficient water

and sugar according to the quantity of the Chocolatte, and then to

boyle it againe, untill there comes an oily scumme upon it, and then

to drinke it. There is another way yet to drinke Chocolatte, which

is cold, which the _Indians_ use at feasts, to refresh themselves,

and it is made after this manner. The Chocolatte (which is made with

none or very few ingredients) being dissolved in cold water with the

Molinet, they take off the scumme or crassy part, which riseth in great

quantity, especially when the Cacao is older and more putrefied. The

scumme they lay aside in a little dish by it selfe, and then put sugar

into that part from whence was taken the scum, and then powre it from

on high into the scumme, and so drinke it cold. And this drinke is so

cold, that it agreeth not with all mens stomacks; for by experience it

hath been found, that it doth hurt, by causing pains in the stomack,

especially to women. The third way of taking it is the most used, and

thus certainly it doth no hurt, neither know I why it may not bee used

as well in _England_ as in other parts both hot and cold; for where it

is so much used, the most, if not all, as well in the _India's_, as

in _Spaine, Italy, Flanders_ (which is a cold Countrey) find that it

agreeth well with them. True it is, it is used more in the _India's_,

then in the _European_ parts, because there the stomackes are more apt

to faint then here, and a cup of Chocolatte well confectioned comforts

and strengthens the stomack. For my self I must say, I used it twelve

yeers constantly, drinking one cup in the morning, another yet before

dinner between nine or ten of the clock; another within an houre or

two after dinner, and another between four and five in the afternoon;

and when I was purposed to sit up late to study, I would take another

cup about seven or eight at night, which would keep me waking till

about midnight. And if by chance I did neglect any of these accustomed

houres, I presently found my stomacke fainty. And with this custome I

lived twelve yeers in those parts healthy, without any obstructions,

or oppilations, not knowing what either ague, or feaver was. Yet I

will not dare to regulate by mine owne the bodies of others, nor take

upon me the skil of a Physitian, to appoint and define at what time

and by what persons this drinke may be used. Onely I say, I have known

some that have been the worse for it, either for drinking it with too

much sugar, which hath relaxed their stomackes, or for drinking it too

often. For certainly if it be drunke beyond measure, not only this

Chocolatte but all other drinkes, or meats, though of themselves they

are good and wholesome, they may be hurtfull. And if some have found

it oppilative, it hath come by the too too much use of it; as when one

drinkes overmuch wine, instead of comforting and warming himselfe, he

breeds and nourisheth cold diseases, because nature cannot overcome

it, not turne so great a quantity into good nourishment. So he that

drinkes much Chocolatte, which hath fat parts, cannot make distribution

of so great a quantity to all the parts; and that part which remaines

in the slender veines of the liver must needs cause oppilations and

obstructions. But lastly, to conclude with this _Indian_ drinke, I will

adde what I have heard Physitians of the _India's_ say of it, and have

seen it by experience in others (though never I could find it in my

selfe) that those that use this Chocolatte much, grow fat and corpulent

by it; which indeed may seem hard to beleeve; for considering that all

the ingredients, except the Cacao, doe rather extenuate, then make

fat, because they are hot and dry in the third degree. And we have

already said, that the qualities which doe predominate in Cacao, are

cold and dry, which are very unfit to adde any substance to the body.

Neverthelesse it may be answered that the many unctuous parts, which

have been proved to be in the Cacao, are those which pinguifie and make

fat; and the hotter ingredients of this composition serve for a guide,

or vehicall, to passe to the liver, and the other parts, untill they

come to the fleshy parts; and there finding a like substance which is

hot and moist, as is the unctuous part, converting it selfe into the

same substance, it doth augment and pinguifie. But how then might this

Cacao with the other _Indian_ ingredients be had in _England_? even

by trading in _Spaine_ for it, as we doe for other commodities; or

not sleighting it so much as we and the _Hollanders_ have often done

upon the _Indian_ seas; of whom I have heard the _Spaniards_ say that

when we have taken a good prize, a ship laden with Cacao, in anger and

wrath we have hurled over board this good commoditie, not regarding

the worth and goodnesse of it, but calling it in bad _Spanish,

Cagaruta de Carnero_, or sheeps dung in good _English_. It is one of

the necessariest commodities in the _India's_, and nothing enricheth

_Chiapa_ in particular more then it, whither are brought from _Mexico_

and other parts, the rich bags of Patacons onely for this _Cagaruta de

Carnero_, which we call sheeps dung. The other drinke which is much

used in the _Indians_ is called Atolle, of which I will say but a

little, because I know it cannot be used here. This was the drinke of

the ancient _Indians_, and is a thick pap made of the flower of Maiz,

taking off the huskes from it, which is windy and melancholy. This is

commonly carried by the _Indian_ women to the Markets hot in pots, and

there is sold in cups. The Criolian students, as wee goe to a Taverne

to drink a cup of wine, so they go in company to the publike Markets,

and as publikely buy and drinke by measure of this Atolle; which

somtimes is seasoned with a little Chile, or long Pepper, and then it

pleaseth them best. But the Nuns and Gentlewomen have got a trick of

confectioning it with Cinnamon, Sweet-waters, Amber, or Muske, and

store of Sugar, and thus it is held to be a most strong and nourishing

drinke, which the Physitians doe prescribe unto a weake body, as we doe

here our Almond-milke. But of what _England_ never knew nor tasted, I

will say no more, but hasten my penne to _Guatemala_, which hath been

my second _patria_.

CHAP. XVII.

_Shewing my journy from the City of_ Chiapa, _unto_ Guatemala, _and the

chief places in the way._

The time now being come that I was to leave the little City of

_Chiapa_, I took some occasion before-hand to take my leave of my

best friends, whose children I had taught, and at my departure I must

confesse I found them kind and bountifull, except it were _Donna

Magdalena de Morales_, from whom I did not expect, neither did I

desire any farewell, or Adieu token. But among all, the Governours

wife was most liberall unto mee, sending mee many boxes of Aromaticall

Chocolatte, and one extraordinary great box with foure severall

divisions of different conserves gilt over, besides many Maple breads,

and Biskets made with Egs and Sugar, a present it was which might have

been sent to a greater man then to a poor worthlesse Mendicant Fryer,

and with this in a handkerchief a dozen peeces of eight. _Don Melchor

del Velazco_ yet exceeded her, in words and complements I meane, but

in deeds, hee and all the crew of the Criolians must thinke to come

short of them, who are borne in _Spain_. The first Town I went unto,

was _Theopixca_, six leagues from _Chiapa_, a faire and great Towne of

_Indians_, who are held to bee next unto the _Indians_ of the other

_Chiapa_ in sitting and riding a horse. In this town is nothing so

considerable as the Church, which is great and strong, and the musick

belonging unto it sweet and harmonious. The Vicar or Curate of this

place was one Fryer _Peter Martir_ a Criolian, whom I knew could not

indure the Prior nor mee, yet he would dissemble a love complementall

exceeding well, and in outward shews raise it up to _gradus ut Octo_.

He knowing my prevalency with the Prior, durst not but give mee very

good entertainment, which continued two dayes, untill I was weary of

his complements.

The third day I tooke my leave of him, who would not yet leave mee,

but would conduct mee to _Comitlan_, whither I was invited by the

Prior of that Cloister, named Fryer _Thome Rocolano_, a _French_ man,

who being a stranger to the _Spaniards_ (for besides him and my selfe

there was no other stranger in that County) desired acquaintance with

mee, which hee began to settle by meeting mee at the half way with

many _Indians_ on horse back, having provided an harbour where wee

might more conveniently conferre and rest while our Chocolatte and

other refreshments were provided. But the Criolian _Peter Martir_ was

not a little envious, (as I was afterwards informed in the Cloister)

to see mee so much made of and esteemed in the Country, yet his faire

words and complements farre exceeded the sincerity and down-rightnesse

of my _French_ friend. At _Comitlan_ I staied a whole weeke, riding

about with the Prior unto the _Indian_ townes, and downe the hill

to the valley of _Copanabastla_, where I injoyed much pastime and

recreation among the Fryers and _Indians_ and was feasted after the

manner of that Country, which knoweth more of an Epicurian diet then

doth _England_, or any part of _Europe_; nay I am perswaded (and I

have heard _Spaniards_ confesse it) that _Spain_ hath taken from the

_Indians_ since the conquest many lessons for the dressing of severall

dishes and compleating a feast or banquet. After the week was ended my

_French_ friend the Prior conducted mee to _Izquintenango_, to see mee

well furnished up the Mountaines of _Cuchumatlanes_. This Towne (as I

have formerly observed) standeth almost at the end of the Valley of

_Copanabastla_, and within two leagues of the _Cuchumatlanes_. It is

one of the finest _Indian_ Townes of all the Province of _Chiapa_, and

very rich, by reason of the much Cotton wooll in it, and especially by

reason of its situation, for standing in the Roade way to _Guatemala_,

all the Merchants of the Country that trade with their mules that way,

passe through this Towne, and there buy and sell, enriching it with

mony and farre brought Commodities. It is most plentifully stored

with fruits, especially with what they call Pina's or Pine fruit. It

standeth close by the great River, which runneth to _Chiapa_ of the

_Indians_, and hath its spring not farre off from the _Cuchumatlanes_,

and yet at this Town is very broad and deep. No man nor beast

travelling to _Guatemala_ can goe into it, or from _Guatemala_ can

goe out of it, but by ferrying over. And the Rode being much used and

beaten by travellers, and by such as they call Requas of mules (every

Requa consisting of fifty or threescore mules) this Ferry is day and

night imployed, and yeelds much treasure to the town at the yeers

end. The _Indians_ of the Town besides the ferry boat, have made many

other little boats, or Canoa's to goe up and down the River. Hither

when the Prior of _Comitlan_ had brought me, we were waited for by the

Vicar or Fryer of that Town with the chief and principall _Indians_,

and most of the Canoa's. As we ferryed over, the little Canoa's went

before us with the Quiristers of the Church singing before us, and

with others sounding their Waits and Trumpets. The Fryer that lived in

this Town, was called Fryer _Geronymo de Guevara_, little in stature,

but great in state, pride and vanity, as hee shewed himself in what

hee had provided for us both of fish and flesh. A brave professour

or vower of Mendicancy and poverty he was, who in twelve yeers that

hee had lived in that Towne, what by mumming of Masses for the dead

and living, what by shearing and fleecing the poore _Indians_, what

by trading and traffiquing with the Merchants that used that Rode,

had got six thousand Duckats, which hee had sent to _Spain_ to the

Court of _Madrid_, to trade with them Simoniacally for the Bishoprick

of _Chiapa_, which if he obtained not, (yet when I came out of that

Country the report went that hee had obtained it) hee would and was

well able with a second supply to obtaine a better. After two daies

feasting with him, hee and the Prior of _Comitlan_ both joyned their

power and authority to see mee well manned with _Indians_, to the

first Towne of the _Cuchumatlanes_. A mule was prepared to carry my

bedding, (which wee commonly carried with us in chests of leather

called Petaca's) another _Indian_ to carry my Petaquilla wherein was

my Chocolatte and all implements to make it; and three more _Indians_

to ride before and behinde to guide me; but to all these nothing was

to be paid, (lest a custome of paying should bee brought in, for so

they doctrined mee as a novice in that Country) except it were to give

them a cup of Chocolatte if I drank in the way, or when I came to my

journeys end. Here I tooke my leave of my good _French_ friend, (who

yet continued friendship with mee by frequent letters to _Guatemala_)

and of my low but high minded _Guevara_, who bad mee expect no friendly

entertainment, untill I were well passed over the _Cuchumatlanes_ and

arrived at _Sacapula_, which was foure daies journey from thence. Yet

hee told mee I might demand what service I list from the _Indians_, and

call for what I had a minde to eat without paying any mony, so that I

did write down my expences in the common Town Book.