This Towne _Petapa_ is so called from two _Indian_ words, _Petap_,

which signifieth a Mat, and _ha_, which signifieth water, and a Mat

being the chiefe part of an _Indians_ bed, it is as much as to say a

bed of water, from the smoothnesse, plainnesse, and calmnesse of the

water of the Lake. There liveth in it a principall family of _Indians_,

who are said to descend from the ancient Kings of those parts, and

now by the _Spaniards_ are graced with the noble name of _Guzman_;

out of this family is chosen one to be Governour of the Towne with

subordination unto the City and Chancery of _Guatemala. Don Bernabe

de Guzman_ was Governour in my time, and had been many yeers before,

and governed very wisely and discreetly, till with old age he came

to loose his sight; and in his place entred his son _Don Pedro de

Guzman_, of whom the rest of the _Indians_ stood in great awe, as

formerly they had to his father. Had not these _Indians_ been given

to drunkennesse (as most _Indians_ are) they might have governed a

Town of _Spaniards_. This Governour hath many priviledges granted unto

him (though none to weare a sword, or rapier, as may the Governour of

_Chiapa_ of the _Indians_) and appoints by turnes some of the Towne

to wait and attend on him at dinner and supper, others to looke to

his Horses, others to fish for him, others to bring him wood for his

house spending, others to bring him meat for his Horses; and yet after

all this his attendance, he attends and waits on the Frier that lives

in the Towne, and doth nothing concerning the governing of the Towne

and executing of justice, but what the Frier alloweth and adviseth

to be done. There is also great service appointed for this Frier, of

Fishermen, and other attendants in his house, who liveth as stately as

any Bishop. Most trades belonging to a well setled Common-wealth are

here exercised by these _Indians_. As for herbage, and garden-fruits,

and requisites, it hath whatsoever may be found, or desired in the

City of _Guatemala_. The Church treasure is very great, there being

many Sodalities of our Lady and other their Saints, which are enriched

with crowns, and chains, and bracelets, besides the lamps, censers, &

silver candlesticks belonging unto the Altars. Upon _Michaelmas_ day

is the chief fair and feast of the Town, which is dedicated unto St.

_Michael_, whither many Merchants resort from _Guatemala_ to buy and

sell; in the afternoon, and the next day following, Bull-baiting is

the common sport for that feast with some _Spaniards_ and _Blackmores_

on Horse-backe, and other _Indians_ on foot, who commonly being drunke,

some venture, some lose their lives in the sport. Besides this generall

concourse of people every yeer at that time, there is every day at

five a clock in the afternoone a Tianguez or market, upheld by the

concourse of the _Indians_ of the Town among themselves. Besides the

lake, there runneth by this Town a river, which in places is easily

waded over, and waters the fruits, gardens, and other plantations, and

drives a mill which serves most of the valley to grind their wheat.

Within a mile and a halfe of this Towne there is a rich Ingenio or

farme of Sugar belonging to one _Sebastian de Savaletta_, a _Biscaine_

borne, who came at first very poore into that Country, and served one

of his Country men; but with his good industry and paines, he began to

get a Mule or two to traffique with about the Country, till at last he

increased his stocke to a whole Requa of Mules, and from thence grew

so rich that he bought much land about _Petapa_, which he found to be

very fit for Sugar, and from thence was incouraged to build a princely

house, whither the best of _Guatemala_ doe resort for their recreation.

This man maketh a great deale of Sugar for the Country, and sends every

yeer much to _Spaine_; he keepeth at least threescore slaves of his own

for the worke of his farme, is very generous in house keeping, and is

thought to be worth above five hundred thousand Duckats. Within halfe

a mile from him there is another farme of Sugar, which is called but

a _Trapiche_ belonging unto the Augustin Friers of _Guatemala_, which

keepes some twenty slaves, and is called a _Trapiche_, for that it

grinds not the Sugar Cane with that device of the Ingenio, but grinds a

lesse quantity, and so makes not to much Sugar as doth an Ingenio. From

hence three miles is the Town of _Amatitlan_, neer unto which standeth

a greater Ingenio of Sugar, then is that of _Savaletta_, and is called

the Ingenio of one _Anis_, because he first founded it, but now it

belongeth unto one _Pedro Crespo_ the Post-master of _Guatemala_; this

Ingenio seemeth to be a little Town by it selfe for the many cottages

and thatched houses of _Blackmore_ slaves which belong unto it, who

may be above a hundred, men, women, and children. The chiefe dwelling

house is strong and capacious, and able to entertain a hundred lodgers.

These three farmes of Sugar standing so neer unto _Guatemala_, enrich

the City much, and occasion great trading from it to _Spaine_. The Town

of _Amatitlan_, though in it there live not so many _Spaniards_ as in

_Petapa_, yet there are in it more _Indian_ families then in _Petapa_.

The streets are more orderly made and framed like a Chequer board,

they are wide, broad, plain, and all upon dust and sand. This Towne

also enjoyeth the commodity of the lake, and furnisheth with fish the

City of _Guatemala_, upon those daies before named of _Petapa_. And

though it standeth out of the rode-way, yet it is almost as rich as

_Petapa_. For the _Indians_ of it get much by the concourse of common

people, and the Gentry of _Guatemala_, who resort thither to certain

bathes of hot waters, which are judged and approved very wholesome for

the body. This Towne also getteth much by the salt which here is made,

or rather gathered by the lake side, which every morning appeareth

like a hoary frost upon the ground, and is taken up and purified by

the _Indians_, and proves very white and good. Besides what they get

by the salt, they get also by the Requa's of Mules in the valley, and

about the Country, which are brought to feed upon that salt earth a

day, or halfe a day, untill they be ready to burst (the owner paying

six pence a day for every Mule) and it hath been found by experience,

that this makes them thrive and grow lusty and purgeth them better

then any drench, or blood-letting. They have further great trading in

Cotton-wool, more abundance of fruits then _Petapa_, a fairer market

place with two extraordinary great Elm-trees, under which the _Indians_

daily meet at evening to buy and sell. The Church of this Towne is as

faire and beautifull as any about _Guatemala_, the riches and state

whereof hath caused the Dominican Friers since the yeer 1635, to make

that place the head and Priory over the other Townes of the valley,

and to build there a goodly and sumptuous Cloister, in which in my

time there was (for I told then most of it, and doubtlesse since it

hath much increased) eight thousand Duckats laid up in a chest, with

three lockes for the common expences of the Cloister. Thus my Reader, I

have led thee through the valley of _Mixco_, and _Pinola, Petapa_ and

_Amatitlan_, which in riches and wealth, what with the great trading in

it, what with the sheep & cattell, what with the abundance of mules,

what with three Farmes of Sugar, what with the great Farmes of Corn

and Wheat, what with the churches treasures yeelds to no other place

belonging unto the dominions of _Guatemala_. I may not forget yet a

double wheat harvest (as I may well term it) in this Vally. The first

being of a little kinde of Wheat, which they call _Trigo Tremesino_,

a word compounded in _Spanish_ from these two words, _tres meses_, or

from the Latin _tres menses_, which after three moneths sowing is ripe

and ready to be cut down, and being sowed about the end of _August_,

is commonly harvested in about the end of _November_; and although

in the smalnesse of it, it seemes to have but a little Flower, yet

it yeelds as much as their other sorts of Wheat, and makes as white

bread, though it keep not so well as that which is made of other Wheat,

but soone groweth stale and hard. The other harvest (which is of two

sorts of Wheat, one called _Rubio_, or red Wheat, the other called

_Blanquilleo_, or white like _Candia_ Wheat) followeth soon after this

first of _Tremesino_, for presently after Christmas every one begins

to bring their sickles into the field, where they doe not onely reap

down their Wheat, but in stead of threshing it in barnes, they cause

it to bee trod by Mares inclosed within floores made on purpose in

the fields; and when the Wheat is trod out of the Eares by the Mares

trampling, who are whipped round about the floores that they may not

stand still, but tread it constantly and throughly; then the Mares

being let out of the floores, the wheat is winnowed from the chaffe,

and put up clean into sackes, and from the field carried to the Barnes;

but the chaffe and most of the straw is left to rot in the fields,

which they esteem as good as dunging; and further set all the fields

on fire, burning the stubble that is left a little before the time of

the first showers of raine, which with the ashes left after the burning

fatteth the ground, and by them is held the best way to husband or dung

their ground. Others that will sow a new and woody peece of land, cause

the trees, though timber trees to bee cut down, and sell not a stick

of that wood, (which there is so plentifull, that they judge it would

not quit their cost to carry it to _Guatemala_, though in _England_ it

would yeeld thousand pounds) but they let it lie and dry, and before

the winter raine begins, they set on fire all the field, and burn that

rich timber, with the ashes whereof that ground becomes so fat and

fertile, that where upon an Aker wee sow here three bushels of Wheat,

or upwards, they sow such ground so thin, that they scarce dare venture

a full bushell upon an Aker, lest with too much spreading upon the

ground it grow too thick, bee lodged, and they loose their crop. The

like they doe unto the pasture of the Valley; about the end of _March_,

it is short and withered and dry, and they also set it on fire, which

being burnt causeth a dismall sight, and prospect of a black valley;

but after the first two or three showres, it puts on againe its greene

and pleasant garment, inviting the Cattell, Sheep, Lambs, Goats, and

Kids, (which for a while were driven away to other pasturing) to return

and sport againe, to feed and rest in its new flourishing bosome. But

now it is time, I return again back to the other end of this valley,

to the _Rio de las Vaccas_ (from whence I have viewed the compasse of

it, and made my long digression from East to West, to the farthest

Towne of _Amatitlan_) to shew thee, my Reader, the little part of

thy way remaining unto _Guatemala_. True it is, from the Ermitage of

our Lady, there is a streight way through the middle of the valley

leading almost to _Amatitlan_, and then turning up a hill out of the

valley on the right hand; But that hath many ascents and descents,

bottomes, falls and risings, and therefore is not the constant Rode,

which from the Ermitage pointeth on the right hand, observing the Towne

of _Mixco_, standing but five miles from _Guatemala_, from _Mixco_

the way lyeth up a hill, and leadeth to a Town somewhat bigger then

_Mixco_, of _Indians_ called _San Lucas_, or St. _Luke_, a cold Town,

but exceeding rich; the temper and coldnesse of it, hath made it the

storehouse, or Granary for all the City; for whereas below in the

Valley; the Wheat will not keep long without musting, and breeding a

worm called _Gurgojo_, such is the temper of this Town of St. _Luke_,

that in it, the Wheat will keep two or three yeeres ready threshed,

with a little turning now and then; and as it lyeth will give and

yeeld, (as experience taught mee there) so that he that hath laid up

in that Town two hundred bushels of Wheat, at the yeers end shall find

neer upon two hundred and twenty bushels. This Towne therefore receives

from the Valley most of the harvest, and is full of what wee call

Barnes, but there are called _Trojas_, without floore, but raised up

with stackes and bords a foot or two from the ground, and covered with

mats, whereon is laid the Wheat, and by some rich Monopolists from the

City is kept and hoarded two and three yeers, untill they find their

best opportunity to bring it out to sale, at the rate of their own will

and pleasure. From hence to _Guatemala_ there is but three little

leagues, and one onely _Barranca_, or bottome, and on every side of

the way little petty Townes, which they call _Milpas_, consisting of

some twenty Cottages. In the middle of the way is the top of a hill,

which discovereth all the City, and standeth as overmastring of it,

as if with a peece or two of Ordnance it would keepe all _Guatemala_

in awe; But besides this hill, which is the wide and open Rode, there

stand yet forwarder on the right and left hand other mountaines which

draw neerer to the City, and what this top peradventure with too much

distance, is not able to doe or reach, the others certainly would

reach with Cannon shot, and command that farre commanding City. Downe

this hill the way lies broad and wide, and as open as is the way downe

_Barnet_ or _Highgate_ Hill; and at the bottome it is more straitned

betweene the Mountaines, for the space of a bowshot, which passage also

is craggy by reason of stones and some small peeces of rocks which

lie in a brook of water that descends from the Mountaines, and runs

towards the City. But at a little Ermitage called St. _John_, the way

opens againe itselfe, and sheweth _Guatemala_, welcoming the weary

travellers with a pleasant prospect, and easing theirs, or their mules

or horses feet, what with green walkes, what with a sandy and gravelly

Rode unto the City, which never shut gate against any goer or comer,

nor forbad their entrance with any fenced walls, or watchmens jealous

questions, but freely and gladly entertaines them either by the back

side of the Dominicans Cloister, or by the Church and Nunnery called

the Conception. And thus my Reader, and country man I have brought and

guided thee from the Golfe unto _Guatemala_, shewing what that way is

most remarkable. I shall not now shew thee any more of this Cities

Dominions toward _Nicaragua_ and the South (having already shewed thee

the way as far as _Realejo_) leaving that untill I come to tell thee

of my journey homewards, which I made that way. There remaines yet

the Country of the _Vera Paz_ and the way unto it to discover, and so

to close up this Chapter. The _Vera Paz_ is so called, for that the

_Indians_ of that Country hearing how the _Spaniards_ had conquered

_Guatemala_, and did conquer the Country round about, wheresoever they

came, yeelded themselves peaceably and without any resistance unto the

Government of _Spaine_. This Country formerly had a Bishop to it selfe

distinct from _Guatemala_, but now is made one Bishoprick with that.

It is governed by an Alcalde Maior, or high Justice sent from _Spain_,

with subordination unto the Court of _Guatemala_. The head or shire

Town of it, is called _Coban_, where is a Cloister of Dominican Friers,

and the common place of Residence of the Alcalde Maior. All this

Country as yet is not subdued by the _Spaniards_, who have now and then

some strong encounters with the barbarous and heathen people, which lie

between this Country and _Jucatan_; and faine would the _Spaniards_

conquer them, that they might make way through them unto a Town called

_Campin_ belonging to _Jucatan_, and settle commerce, and Traffique by

land with that Country, which is thought would bee a great furtherance

to the Country and City of _Guatemala_, and a safer way to convey their

goods to the Havana, then by the Golf, for oftentimes the ships that

goe from the Golf to the Havana, are met with by the _Hollanders_ and

surprised. But as yet the _Spaniards_ have not been able to bring to

passe this their design, by reason they have found strong resistance

from the heathenish people, and a hot service to attempt the conquering

of them. Yet there was a Fryer a great acquaintance of mine, called

Fryer _Francisco Moran_, who ventured his life among those barbarians,

and with two or three _Indians_ went on foot through that Country,

untill he came unto _Campin_, where he found a few _Spaniards_, who

wondred at his courage and boldnesse in comming that way. This Fryer

came back again to _Coban_ and _Vera Paz_, relating how the barbarians

hearing him speake their language, and finding him kind, loving and

curteous to them, used him also kindly, fearing (as hee said) that if

they should kill him, the _Spaniards_ would never let them bee at rest

and quiet, untill they had utterly destroyed them. Hee related when he

came back, that the Country which the Barbarians inhabite, is better

then any part of the _Vera Paz_, which is subject to the _Spaniards_,

and spoke much of a Valley, where is a great lake, and about it a Towne

of _Indians_, which hee judged to bee of at least twelve thousand

Inhabitants, the Cottages lying in a distance one from another. This

Fryer hath writ of this Country, and hath gone to _Spain_ to the Court

to motion the conquering of it, for the profit and commodity that may

ensue both to _Guatemala_ and _Jucatan_, if a way were opened thither.

But though as yet on that side the _Spaniards_ and the Country of

the _Vera Paz_, bee straightned by that heathenish people, yet on the

other side it hath free passage unto the Golf, and trade there when the

ships doe come, carrying Fowles and what other Provision the Country

will afford for the ships, and bringing from thence wines, and other

_Spanish_ wares unto _Coban_. This Country is very hilly and craggy,

and though there bee some bigge Townes in it, they are not above three

or foure that are considerable. The chief commodities, are _Achiotte_

(which is the best of all the Country belonging to _Guatemala_) and

_Cacao_, Cotton Wooll, hony, _Canna fistula_, and _Zarzaparilla_, great

store of _Maiz_, but no Wheat, much waxe, plenty of fowles and birds of

all coloured feathers, wherewith the _Indians_ make some curious works,

but not like unto those of _Mechoacan_; here are also abundance of

Parrets, Apes and Monkies which breed in the Mountaines. The way from

_Guatemala_ to this Country is that which hitherto hath beene spoken

of from the Golf, as far as the Town of St. _Luke_; and from thence

the way keeps on the hils and mountaines which lie on the side of the

Valley of _Mixco_. These hils are called _Sacatepeques_, (compounded

of _Sacate_ and _Tepec_, the latter signifying a hill, and the former,

herbe or grasse, and thus joyned, they signifie mountaines of grasse)

and among them are these chief Townes, first _Santiago_ or St. _James_,

a Town of five hundred Families, secondly, _San Pedro_ or St. _Peter_,

consisting of six hundred families, thirdly, St. _Juan_, or St. _John_

consisting also of at least six hundred Families, and fourthly, _Sto

Domingo Senano_, or St. _Dominic_ of _Senaco_, being of three hundred

Families. These foure Towns are very rich, and the two last very cold,

the two first are warmer; there are about them many Farmes of corn and

good Wheat, besides the _Indian Maiz_. These _Indians_ are somewhat

of more courage then those of other Townes, and in my time were like

to rise up against the _Spaniards_ for their unmercifull tyranny over

them. The Churches are exceeding rich; in the Towne of _Santiago_,

there was living in my time one _Indian_, who for onely vaine-glory had

bestowed the worth of six thousand Duckates upon that Church, and yet

afterwards this wretch was found to bee a Wizard and Idolater. These

_Indians_ get much mony by letting out great tuffes of feathers, which

the _Indians_ use in their dances upon the feasts of the Dedication of

their towns. For some of the great tuffes may have at least threescore

long feathers of divers colours, for every feather hiring they have

halfe a Riall, besides what price they set to every feather, if any

should chance to be lost. From the Town of St. _John_, which is the

furthest the way lies plain and pleasant unto a little village of some

twenty Cottages, called St. _Raymundo_ or St. _Raymond_, from whence

there is a good dayes journy up and down _Barrancas_, or bottomes

unto a _Rancho_, or lodge standing by a River side, which is the same

River, that passeth by the Town of _Acasabastlan_ spoken of before.

From this is an ascent of a very craggy and rocky Mountaine, called

the Mountaine of _Rabinall_, where are steps cut out in the very

Rockes for the mules feet, and slipping on one or the other side, they

fall surely downe the rockes, breaking their neckes, and mangling

all their limbes and joynts; but this danger continueth not long nor

extendeth above a league and a half, and in the top and worst of this

danger, there is the comfort of a goodly Valley, called _El Valle de

San Nicholas_, St. _Nicholas_ his Valley, from an Estancia called St.

_Nicholas_ belonging to the Dominicans Cloister of _Coban_. This Valley

though it must not compare with that of _Mixco_ and _Pinola_; yet next

after it, it may well take place for onely three things considerable

in it. The first is an _Ingenio_ of Sugar, called _San Geronymo_, or

St. _Hierome_, belonging unto the Dominicans Cloister of _Guatemala_,

which indeed goeth beyond that spoken of of _Amatitlan_, both for

abundance of Sugar made there, and sent by mules to _Guatemala_ over

that rocky Mountaine, and for multitude of slaves living in it under

the command of two Fryers, and for the excellent horses bred there,

which are incomparably the best of all the Country of _Guatemala_ for

metle, and gallantry, and therefore (though mules are commonly used for

burthens) are much desired and looked after by the Gallants and Gentry

of the City, who make it a great part of their honour to prance about

the streets. The second thing in this Valley is the Estancia or Farm

of St. _Nicolas_ which is as famous for breeding of mules, as is St.

_Hierome_ for horses. The third ornament to it is a Town of _Indians_,

called _Rabinall_, of at least eight hundred Families, which hath

all that heart can wish for pleasure and life of man. It inclineth

rather to heat then cold, but the heat is moderate and much qualified

with the many cool and shady walkes. There is not any _Indian_ fruit,

which is not there to be found, besides the fruits of _Spain_, as

Oranges, Lemmons, sweet and sowre, Citrons, Pomegranates, Grapes, Figs,

Almonds, and Dates; the onely want of wheat is not a want to them that

mind bread of wheat more then of Maiz, for in two dayes it is easily

brought from the Townes of _Sacatepeques_. For flesh, it hath Beef,

Mutton, Kid, Fowles, Turkies, Quailes, Partridges, Rabbets, Pheasants;

and for fish, it hath a River running by the houses, which yeeldeth

plenty both great and small. The _Indians_ of this Towne are much like

unto those of _Chiapa_ of the _Indians_, for bravery, for feasting,

for riding of horses, and shewing themselves in sports and pastimes.

This Town my friend Fryer _John Baptist_, after hee had been Prior of

many places, and especially of _Chiapa_ and _Guatemala_, chose to live

in to injoy quietnesse, pleasure and content; and in this Town was I

feasted by him in such a sumptuous, prodigall and lavishing way, as

truely might make poor mendicant Fryers ashamed to come so neer unto

Princes in vanity of life and dyet. From this Valley unto the _Vera

Paz_, or _Coban_, the head Town of it, there is nothing considerable,

save onely one Town more called St. _Christoval_ or St. _Christopher_,

which enjoyeth now a pleasant Lake, and bottomelesse, as is reported.

Formerly there being no Lake at all, in a great Earthquake, the earth

there opened, and swallowed up many houses, leaving this Lake which

ever since hath continued. From hence to _Coban_ the wayes are bad and

mountainous, yet such as through the worst of them, those country mules

with heavy burthens easily goe through. And thus with my pen, Reader,

have I gone through most of the bounds and limits of _Guatemala_, which

is more furnished with gallant Towns of _Indians_, then is any part of

all _America_; and doubtlesse were the _Indians_ warlike, industrious,

active for warre or weapons, no part in all _America_ might bee

stronger in people then _Guatemala_. But they being kept under and

oppressed by the _Spaniards_, and no weapons allowed them, not so

much as their naturall Bowes and Arrowes, much lesse Guns, Pistols,

Muskets, Swords, or Pikes, their courage is gone, their affections

alienated from the _Spaniards_, and so the _Spaniards_ might very well

feare, that if their country should be invaded, the multitude of their

_Indian_ people, would prove to them a multitude of enemies, either

running away to another side; or forced to help, would bee to them but

as the help of so many flies.

CHAP. XIX.

_Shewing the condition, quality, fashion, and behaviour of the_ Indians

_of the Country of_ Guatemala _since the Conquest, and especially of

their feasts, and yeerly Solemnities._

The condition of the _Indians_ of this Country of _Guatemala_ is as

sad, and as much to bee pitied as of any _Indians_ in _America_, for

that I may say it is with them in some sort, as it was with _Israel_

in _Egypt_, of whom it is said, _Exod._ 1. 7. _They were fruitfull and

increased abundantly, and multiplied, and waxed exceeding mighty, and

the land was filled with them_, and therefore _Pharaoh_ said unto his

people, Vers. 10. _Let us deale wisely with them, lest they multiply,

and it come to passe, that when there falleth out any Warre, they joyne

also unto our enemies, and fight against us_. Therefore they did set

over them taskemasters, to afflict them with their burdens, and they

made their lives bitter with bondage, in morter and in brick, and in

all manner of service in the field; and all their service wherein they

made them serve was with rigor. Though it is true, there ought not to

be any comparison made betwixt the _Israelites_ and the _Indians_,

those being Gods people, these not as yet; neverthelesse the comparison

may well hold in the oppression of the one and the other, and in the

manner and cause of the oppression, that being with bitternesse,

rigour, and hard bondage, and lest they should multiply and increase

too much. Certain it is, these _Indians_ suffer great oppression from

the _Spaniards_, live in great bitternesse, are under hard bondage,

and serve with great rigor; and al this, because they are at least a

thousand of them for one _Spaniard_, they daily multiply and increase,

in children and wealth, and therefore are feared lest they should be

too mighty, and either rise up of themselves, or joyn themselves to any

enemy against their oppressors; for both which fears and jealousies,

they are not allowed the use of any weapons or armes, no not their bows

and arrows, which their ancestors formerly used; so that as hereby the

_Spaniards_ are secured from any hurt or annoyance from them as an

unarmed people; so may any other nation, that shall be incouraged to

invade that land, be secure also from the _Indians_, & consequently

the _Spaniards_ own policy for themselves against the _Indians_ may

be their greatest ruine, and destruction, being a great people and

yet no people; for the abundance of their _Indians_ would be to them

as no people; and they themselves, (who out of their few Towns and

Cities live but here and there, too thinly scattered upon so great and

capacious a land) would be but a handfull for any reasonable Army;

and of that handfull very few would be found able or fitting men; and

those able men would do little without the help of guns and ordnance;

and if their own oppressed people, _Black-mores_ and _Indians_ (which

themselves have alwaies feared) should side against them, soon would

they be swallowed up both from within and from without. And by this it

may easily appear how ungrounded they are, who say, it is harder to

conquer _America_ now then in _Cortez_ his time, for that there are now

both _Spaniards_ and _Indians_ to fight against, and then there were

none but bare and naked _Indians_. This I say is a false ground; for

then there were _Indians_ trained up in wars one against another, who

knew wel to use their bows and arrows, and darts, and other weapons,

and were desperate in their fights and single combats, as may appear

out of the histories of them; but now they are cowardized, oppressed,

unarmed, soon frighted with the noise of a musket, nay with a sowre

and grim look of a _Spaniard_, so from them there is no fear; neither

can there be from the _Spaniards_, who from all the vast dominions of

_Guatemala_ are not able to raise five thousand able fighting men,

nor to defend so many passages as lie open in severall parts of that

Country, which the wider and greater it is, might be advantagious to an

enemy, and while the _Spaniard_ in one place might oppose his strength,

in many other places might his land be over-run by a foraine nation;

nay by their owne slaves the _Black-mores_, who doubtlesse to be set at

liberty would side against them in any such occasion; and lastly, the

Criolians who also are sore oppressed by them, would rejoyce in such a

day, and yeeld rather to live with freedome and liberty under a forain

people, then to be longer oppressed by those of their own blood.

The miserable condition of the _Indians_ of that Country is such, that

though the Kings of _Spain_ have never yeelded to what some would have,

that they should be slaves, yet their lives are as full of bitternesse

as is the life of a slave. For which I have known my selfe some of them

that have come home from toyling and moyling with _Spaniards_, after

many blowes, some wounds, and little or no wages, who have sullenly

and stubbornly lain down upon their beds, resolving to die rather then

to live any longer a life so slavish, and have refused to take either

meat or drinke, or any thing else comfortable and nourishing, which

their wives have offered unto them, that so by pining and starving they

might consume themselves. Some I have by good perswasions encouraged

to life rather then to a voluntary and wilfull death; others there

have been that would not be perswaded, but in that wilfull way have

died. The _Spaniards_ that live about that Country (especially the

farmers of the valley of _Mixco, Pinola, Petapa, Amatitlan_, and those

of the _Sacatepeques_) alleadge that all their trading, and farming,

is for the good of the Common-wealth, and therefore whereas there are

not _Spaniards_ enough for so ample and large a Countrey to doe all

their work, and all are not able to buy slaves and _Blackmores_, they

stand in need of the _Indians_ help to serve them for their pay and

hire; whereupon it hath been considered, that a partition of _Indian_

labourers be made every Monday, or Sonday in the afternoon to the

_Spaniards_, according to the farmes they occupie, or acording to their

severall employments, calling, and trading with Mules, or any other

way. So that for such and such a district there is named an officer,

who is called Juez Repartidor, who according to a List made of every

farme, house, and person, is to give so many _Indians_ by the week.

And here is a doore opened to the president of _Guatemala_, and to the

Judges to provide well for their meniall servants, whom they commonly

appoint for this office, which is thus performed by them. They name

the Town and place of their meeting upon Sonday or Monday, to the

which themselves and the _Spaniards_ of that district do resort. The

_Indians_ of the severall Towns are to have in a readinesse so many

labourers as the Court of _Guatemala_ hath appointed to be weekly

taken out of such a Towne, who are conducted by an _Indian_ officer to

the Towne of generall meeting; and when they come thither with their

tooles, their spades, shovels, bils, or axes, with their provision

of victuals for a week (which are commonly some dry cakes of Maiz,

puddings of frixoles, or _French_ beanes, and a little Chile or biting

long pepper, or a bit of cold meat for the first day or two) and

with beds on their backes (which is only a course woollen mantle to

wrap about them when they lye on the bare ground) then are they shut

up in the Towne-house, some with blowes, some with spurnings, some

with boxes on the eare, if presently they goe not in. Now all being

gathered together, and the house filled with them, the Juez Repartidor

or officer, calls by the order of the List such and such a _Spaniard_,

and also calls out of the house so many _Indians_ as by the Court are

commanded to be given him (some are allowed three, some foure, some

ten, some fifteen, some twenty, according to their employments) and

delivereth unto the _Spaniard_ his _Indians_, and so to all the rest,

till they be all served; who when they receive their _Indians_, take

from them a toole, or their mantles; to secure them that they run not

away; and for every _Indian_ delivered unto them, they give unto the

Juez Repartidor or officer, halfe a Riall, which is three pence an

_Indian_ for his fees, which mounteth yeerly to him to a great deale

of money; for some officers make a partition or distribution of four

hundred, some of two hundred, some of three hundred _Indians_, every

week, and carrieth home with him so many halfe hundred Rials for one,

or halfe a daies worke. If complaint be made by any _Spaniard_ that

such and such an _Indian_ did run away from him, and served him not

the week past, the _Indian_ must be brought, and surely tied to a post

by his hands in the Market place, and there be whipped upon his bare

backe. But if the poor _Indian_ complaine that the _Spaniards_ cousened

and cheated him of his shovell, axe, bill, mantle, or wages, no justice

shall be executed against the cheating _Spaniard_, neither shall the

_Indian_ be righted, though it is true the order runs equally in favour

of both _Indian_ and _Spaniard_. Thus are the poore _Indians_ sold for

three pence a peece for a whole weeks slavery, not permitted to goe

home at nights unto their wives, though their worke lie not above a

mile from the Town where they live; nay some are carried ten or twelve

miles from their home, who must not returne till Saturday night late,

and must that week do whatsoever their Master pleaseth to command them.

The wages appointed them will scarce find them meat and drinke, for

they are not allowed a Riall a day, which is but sixpence, and with

that they are to find themselves, but for six daies worke and diet they

are to have five Rials, which is halfe a crowne. This same order is

observed in the City of _Guatemala_, and Townes of _Spaniards_, where

to every family that wants the service of an _Indian_ or _Indians_,

though it be but to fetch water and wood on their backs, or to goe

of arrants, is allowed the like service from the neerest _Indian_

Townes. It would grieve a Christians heart to see how by some cruell

_Spaniards_ in that weeks service, those poor wretches are wronged and

abused; some visiting their wives at home, whilst their poore husbands

are digging and delving; others whipping them for their slow working,

others wounding them with their swords, or breaking their heads for

some reasonable and well grounded answer in their own behalfe, others

stealing from them their tooles, others cheating them of halfe, others

of all their wages, alleadging that their service cost them halfe a

Riall, and yet their worke not well performed. I knew some who made

a common practice of this, when their wheat was sowne, and they had

little to do for the _Indians_; yet they would have home as many as

were due unto their farme, and on Monday and Tuesday would make them

cut and bring them on their backes as much wood as they needed all

that week, and then on Wednesday at noon (knowing the great desire of

the _Indians_ to goe home to their wives, for the which they would

give any thing) would say unto them, What will you give me now, if I

let you goe home to doe your own worke? whereunto the _Indians_ would

joyfully reply and answer, some that they would give a Riall, others

two Rials, which they would take and send them home, and so would have

much worke done, wood to serve their house a week, and mony as much

as would buy them meat, and Cacao for Chocolatte two weeks together;

and thus from the poor _Indians_ doe those unconscionable _Spaniards_

practice a cheap and lazy way of living. Others will sell them away for

that week unto a neighbour that hath present need of worke, demanding

Rials a piece for every _Indian_, which he that buyeth them, will be

sure to defray out of their wages. So likewise are they in a slavish

bondage and readinesse for all passengers and travellers, who in any

Towne may demand unto the next Towne as many _Indians_ do goe with his

Mules, or to carry on their backes a heavy burthen as he shall need,

who at the journeys end will pick some quarrell with them, and so send

them back with blowes and stripes without any pay at all. A Petaca, or

leatherne Trunke, and chest of above a hundred weight, they will make

those wretches to carry on their backs a whole day, nay some two or

three daies together, which they doe by tying the chest on each side

with ropes, having a broad leather in the middle, which they crosse

over the forepart of their head, or over their forehead, hanging thus

the waight upon their heads and browes, which at their journeys end

hath made the blood stick in the foreheads of some, galling and pulling

off the skin, and marking them in the fore-top of their heads, who as

they are called _Tamemez_, so are easily known in a Towne by their

baldnesse, that leather girt having worn off all their hair. With these

hard usages, yet do those poor people make a shift to live amongst

the _Spaniards_, but so that with anguish of heart they are still

crying out to God for justice, and for liberty, whose only comfort is

in their Preists and Friers, who many times doe quiet them when they

would rise up in mutiny, and for their owne ends doe often prevaile

over them with fair and cunning perswasions, to bear and suffer for

Gods sake, and for the good of the Common-wealth that hard task and

service which is laid upon them. And though in all seasons, wet and

dry, cold and hot, and in all wayes plain and mountainous, green and

dirty, dusty and stony, they must performe this hard service to their

commanding Masters, their apparell and cloathing is but such as may

cover the nakednesse of their body, nay in some it is such torne rags

as will not cover halfe their nakednesse. Their ordinary cloathing

is a paire of linnen or woollen drawers broad and open at the knees,

without shooes (though in their journeys some will put on leatherne

sandals to keep the soles of their feet) or stockins, without any

doublet, a short course shirt, which reacheth a little below their

waste, and serves more for a doublet then for a shirt, and for a cloake

a woollen or linnen mantle, (called Aiate) tied with a knot over one

shoulder, hanging down on the other side almost to the ground, with a

twelve penny or two shilling hat, which after one good shower of raine

like paper falls about their necks and eies; their bed they carry

sometimes about them, which is that woollen mantle wherewith they wrap

themselves about at night, taking off their shirt and drawers, which

they lay under their head for a pillow; some will carry with them a

short, slight, and light Mat to lie, but those that carry it not with

them, if they cannot borrow one of a neighbour, lie as willingly in

their mantle upon the bare ground, as a Gentleman in _England_ upon a

soft down-bed, and thus doe they soundly sleep, and lowdly snort after

a daies worke, or after a daies journey with a hundred weight upon

their backs. Those that are of the better sort, and richer, and who

are not employed as _Tamemez_ to carry burthens, or as Labourers to

work for _Spaniards_, but keep at home following their own farmes, or

following their owne Mules about the Country, or following their trades

and callings in their shops, or governing the Townes, as Alcaldes, or

Alguaziles, officers of justice, may goe a little better apparelled,

but after the same manner. For some will have their drawers with a

lace at the bottom, or wrought with some coloured Silke or Crewel; so

likewise the mantle about them, shall have either a lace, or some work

of birds on it, some will wear a cut linnen doublet, others shooes,

but very few stockins or bands about their neckes; and for their beds,

the best _Indian_ Governour, or the richest, who may be worth four or

five thousand Duckats, will have little more then the poor _Tamemez_;

for they lie upon boards, or Canes bound together, and raised from the

ground, whereon they lay a broad and handsome Mat, and at their heads

for man and wife two little stumps of wood for bolsters, whereon they

lay their shirts and mantles and other cloaths for pillowes, covering

themselves with a broader blanket then is their mantle, and thus hardly

would _Don Bernabe de Guzman_ the Governour of _Petapa_ lie, and so

doe all the best of them. The womens attire is cheap and soon put on;

for most of them also go barefoot, the richer and better sort wear

shooes, with broad ribbons for shooe-strings, and for a petticote, they

tie about their waste a woollen mantle, which in the better sort is

wrought with divers colours, but not sowed at all, pleated or gathered

in, but as they tie it with a list about them; they wear no shift

next their body, but cover their nakednesse with a kind of surplice

(which they call _Guaipil_) which hangs loose from their shoulders

down a little below their waste, with open short sleeves, which cover

halfe their armes; this Guaipil is curiously wrought, especially in

the bosome, with Cotton, or feathers. The richer sort of them wear

bracelets and bobs about their wrists and necks; their hair is gathered

up with fillets, without any quaife or covering, except it be the

better sort. When they goe to Church or abroad, they put upon their

heads a vaile of linnen, which hangeth almost to the ground, and this

is that which costs them most of all their attire, for that commonly

it is of _Holland_ or some good linnen brought from _Spain_, or fine

linnen brought from _China_, which the better sort wear with a lace

about. When they are at home at work they commonly take off their

Guaipil, or surplice, discovering the nakednesse of their breasts

and body. They lie also in their beds as doe their husbands, wrapped

up only with a mantle, or with a blanket. Their houses are but poore

thatched cottages, without any upper roomes, but commonly one or two

only roomes below, in the one they dresse their meat in the middle

of it, making a compasse for fire, with two or three stones, without

any other chimney to convey the smoak away, which spreading it selfe

about the roome filleth the thatch and the rafters so with sut, that

all the roome seemeth to be a chimney. The next unto it, is not free

from smoak and blacknesse, where sometimes are four or five beds

according to the family. The poorer sort have but one room, where they

eat, dresse their meat, and sleep. Few there are that set any lockes

upon their dores, for they fear no robbing nor stealing, neither have

they in their houses much to lose, earthen pots, and pans, and dishes,

and cups to drinke their Chocolatte, being the chief commodities in

their house. There is scarce any house which hath not also in the yard

a stew, wherein they bath themselves with hot water, which is their

chief physick when they feel themselves distempered. Among themselves

they are in every Town divided into Tribes, which have one chief head,

to whom all that belong unto that Tribe, doe resort in any difficult

matters, who is bound to aid, protect, defend, counsell, and appear for

the rest of his Tribe before the officers of justice in any wrong that

is like to be done unto them. When any is to be married, the father of

the son that is to take a wife out of another Tribe, goeth unto the

head of his Tribe to give him warning of his sons marriage with such a

maid. Then that head meets with the head of the maids Tribe, and they

conferre about it. The businesse commonly is in debate a quarter of a

yeer; all which time the parents of the youth or man are with gifts to

buy the maid; they are to be at the charges of all that is spent in

eating and drinking, when the heads of the two Tribes doe meet with

the rest of the kindred of each side, who sometimes sit in conference

a whole day, or most part of a night. After many dayes and nights

thus spent, and a full triall being made of the one and other sides

affection, if they chance to disagree about the marriage, then is the

Tribe and parents of the maid to restore back all that the other side

hath spent and given. They give no portions with their daughters, but

when they die, their goods and lands are equally divided among their

sons. If any one want a house to live in, or will repair and thatch

his house anew, notice is given to the heads of the Tribes, who warn

all the Town to come to help in the work, and every one is to bring

a bundle of straw, and other materials, so that in one day with the

helpe of many they finish a house, without any charges more then of

Chocolatte, which they minister in great cups as big as will hold above

a pint, not putting in any costly materials, as doe the _Spaniards_,

but only a little Anniseed, and Chile, or _Indian_ pepper; or else they

halfe fill the cup with Attolle, and powre upon it as much Chocolatte

as will fill the cup and colour it. In their diet the poorer sort are

limited many times to a dish of Frixoles, or Turkey beanes, either

black or white (which are there in very great abundance, and are kept

dry for all the yeer) boyled with Chile; and if they can have this,

they hold themselves well satisfied; with these beanes, they make

also dumplins, first boyling the bean a little, and then mingling it

with a masse of Maiz, as we do mingle Currants in our cakes, and so

boile again the frixoles with the dumplin of Maiz masse, and so eat it

hot, or keep it cold; but this and all whatsoever else they eat, they

either eat it with green biting Chile, or else they dip it in water

and salt, wherein is bruised some of that Chile. But if their means

will not reach to frixoles, their ordinary fare and diet is, their

Tortilla's (so they call thin round cakes made of the dow and Masse of

Maiz) which they eat hot from an earthen pan, whereon they are soon

baked with one turning over the fire; and these they eat alone either

with Chile and salt, and dipping them in water and salt with a little

bruised Chile. When their Maiz is green and tender, they boil some of

those whole stalkes or clusters, whereon the Maiz groweth with the

leaf about, and so casting a little salt about it, they eat it. I have

often eate of this, and found it as dainty as our young green pease,

and very nourishing, but it much increaseth the blood. Also of this

green and tender Maiz they make a Furmity, boiling the Maiz in some of

the milke which they have first taken out of it by bruising it. The

poorest _Indian_ never wants this diet, and is well satisfied, as long

as his belly is thorowly filled. But the poorest that live in such

Townes where flesh meat is sold, will make a hard shift, but that when

they come from worke on Saturday night, they will buy one halfe Riall,

or a Riall worth of fresh meat to eat on the Lords day. Some will buy

a good deal at once, and keep it long by dressing it into Tassajo's,

which are bundles of flesh, rowled up and tied fast; which they doe,

when for examples sake they have from a leg of beefe sliced off from

the bone all the flesh with the knife, after the length, forme, and

thinnesse of a line, or rope. Then they take the flesh and salt it,

(which being sliced and thinly cut, soon takes salt) and hang it up in

their yards like a line from post to post, or from tree to tree, to

the wind for a whole week, and then they hang it in the smoak another

week, and after rowle it up in small bundles, which become as hard as

a stone, and so as they need it, they wash it, boyl it and eat it.

This is _America's_ powdered beef, which they call Tassajo, whereof I

have often eaten, and the _Spaniards_ eat much of it, especially those

that trade about the Countrey with Mules; nay this Tassajo is a great

commodity, and hath made many a _Spaniard_ rich, who carry a Mule or

two loaden with these Tassajo's in small parcels and bundles to those

Townes where is no flesh at all sold, and there they exchange them for

other commodities among the _Indians_, receiving peradventure for one

Tassajo or bundle, (which cost them but the halfe part of a farthing)

as much Cacao, as in other places they sell for a Riall or sixpence.

The richer sort of people will fare better, for if there be fish or

flesh to bee had, they will have it, and eat most greedily of it; and

will not spare their fowls and Turkeys from their own bellies. These

also will now and then get a wild Dear, shooting it with their bows

and arrows. And when they have killed it, they let it lie in the wood

in some hole or bottom covered with leaves for the space of about a

week, untill it stinke and begin to be full of wormes; then they bring

it home, cut it out into joynts, and parboil it with an herbe which

groweth there somewhat like unto our Tanzy, which they say sweetneth

it again, and maketh the flesh eat tender, and as white as a peice of

Turkey. Thus parboiled, they hang up the joynts in the smoke for a

while, and then boyle it again, when they eat it, which is commonly

dressed with red _Indian_ pepper; and this is the Venison of _America_,

whereof I have sometimes eaten, and found it white and short, but never

durst be too bold with it, not that I found any evill taste in it, but

that the apprehension of the wormes and maggots which formerly had

been in it, troubled much my stomack. These _Indians_ that have little

to doe at home, and are not employed in the weekly service under the

_Spaniards_ in their hunting, will looke seriously for Hedge-hogs,

which are just like unto ours, though certainly ours are not meat for

any Christian. They are full of pricks and brisles like ours, and are

found in woods and fields, living in holes, and as they say feed upon

nothing but Amits and their egs, and upon dry rotten sticks, herbes,

and roots; of these they eat much, the flesh being as white and sweet

as a Rabbit, and as fat as is a _January_ hen kept up and fatted in

a Coope. Of this meat I have also eaten, and confesse it is a dainty

dish there, though I will not say the same of a Hedge-hog here; for

what here may be poyson, there may be good and lawfull meate, by some

accidentall difference in the creature it selfe, and in that which it

feeds upon, or in the temper of the air and climate. This meat not

only the _Indians_ but the best of the _Spaniards_ feed on it; and it

is so much esteemed of, that because in Lent they are commonly found,

the _Spaniards_ will not be deprived of it, but do eat it also then,

alleadging that it is no flesh (though in the eating it be in fatnesse

and in taste, and in all like unto flesh) for that it feeds not upon

any thing that is very nourishing, but chiefly upon Amits egs, and dry

sticks. It is a great point of controversie amongst their Divines, some

hold it lawfull, others unlawfull for that time; it seems the pricks

and brisles of the _Indian_ Hedge-hog prick their consciences with a

foolish scruple. Another kind of meat they feed much on which is called

_Iguana_; of these some are found in the waters, others upon the land.

They are longer then a Rabbit, and like unto a Scorpion, with some

green, some black scales on their backes. Those upon the land will

run very fast, like Lizards, and will climbe up trees like Squerrils,

and breed in the roots of trees or in stone walls. The sight of them

is enough to affright one; and yet when they are dressed and stewed

in broth with a little spice, they make a dainty broth, and eat also

as white as a Rabbit, nay the middle bone is made just like the backe

bone of a Rabbit. They are dangerous meat, if not throughly boiled,

and they had almost cost mee my life for eating too much of them, not

being stewed enough. There are also many water and land Tortoi's, which

the _Indians_ find out for themselves, and also relish exceeding well

unto the _Spaniards_ palate. As for drinking, the _Indians_ generally

are much given unto it; and drinke if they have nothing else, of their

poore and simple Chocolatte, without Sugar or many compounds, or of

Atolle, untill their bellies bee ready to burst. But if they can get

any drink that will make them mad drunk, they will not give it over as

long as a drop is left, or a penny remaines in their purse to purchase

it. Among themselves they use to make such drinks as are in operation

far stronger then wine, and these they confection in such great Jarres

as come from _Spain_; wherein they put some little quantity of water,

and fill up the Jar with some Melasso's, or juyce of the Sugar Cane,

or some hony for to sweeten it; then for the strengthning of it, they

put roots and leaves of Tobacco, with other kinde of roots which grow

there, and they know to bee strong in operation, nay in some places I

have known where they have put in a live Toad, and so closed up the

Jarre for a fortnight, or moneths space, till all that they have put

in him, be throughly steeped and the toad consumed, and the drink well

strengthned, then they open it, and call their friends to the drinking

of it, (which commonly they doe in the night time, lest their Preist

in the Towne should have notice of them in the day) which they never

leave off, untill they bee mad, and raging drunke. This drink they call

Chicha, which stinketh most filthily, and certainly is the cause of

many _Indians_ death, especially where they use the toads poyson with

it. Once I was informed living in _Mixco_, of a great meeting that

was appointed in an _Indians_ house; and I took with mee the Officers

of Justice of the Town, to search that _Indians_ house, where I found

foure Jarres of _Chicha_ not yet opened, I caused them to be taken

out, and broken in the street before his doore, and the filthy Chicha

to be poured out, which left such a stinking sent in my nostrils, that

with the smell of it, or apprehension of its loathsomenesse, I fell to

vomiting, and continued sick almost a whole week after.

Now the _Spaniards_ knowing this inclination of the _Indians_ unto

drunkennesse, doe herein much abuse and wrong them; though true it

is, there is a strict order, even to the forfeiting of the wine of

anyone who shall presume to sell wine in a Towne of _Indians_, with

a mony mulct besides. Yet for all this the baser and poorer sort of

_Spaniards_ for their lucre and gaine contemning authority, will goe

out from _Guatemala_, to the Towns of _Indians_ about, and carry such

wine to sell and inebriate the Natives as may bee very advantagious

to themselves; for of one Jarre of wine, they will make two at least,

confectioning it with hony and water, and other strong drugs which are

cheap to them, and strongly operative upon the poore and weak _Indians_

heads, and this they will sell for currant _Spanish_ wine, with such

pint and quart measures, as never were allowed by Justice Order, but

by themselves invented. With such wine they soone intoxicate the poore

_Indians_, and when they have made them drunk, then they will cheat

them more, making them pay double for their quart measure; and when

they see they can drinke no more, then they will cause them to ly

down and sleep, and in the meane while will pick their pockets. This

is a common sinne among those _Spaniards_ of _Guatemala_, and much

practised in the City upon the _Indians_, when they come thither to buy

or sell. Those that keep the Bodegones (so are called the houses that

sell wine, which are no better then a Chandlers shop, for besides wine

they sell Candles, Fish, Salt, Cheese and Bacon) will commonly intice

in the _Indians_, and make them drunk, and then pick their pockets,

and turne them out of doores with blowes and stripes, if they will

not fairly depart. There was in _Guatemala_ in my time one of these

Bodegoners, or shopkeeper of wine and small ware, named _Joan Ramos_,

who by thus cheating and tipling poore _Indians_ (as it was generally

reported) was worth two hundred thousand duckates, and in my time gave

with a daughter that was married, eight thousand Duckats. No _Indian_

should passe by his doore, but he would call him in, and play upon him

as aforesaid. In my time a _Spanish_ Farmer, neighbour of mine in the

Valley of _Mixco_, chanced to send to _Guatemala_ his _Indian_ servants

with half a dozen mules loaden with wheat to a Merchant, with whom hee

had agreed before for the price, and ordered the money to bee sent

unto him by his servant (whom hee had kept six yeers, and ever found

him trusty) the wheat being delivered, and the money received (the

which mounted to ten pound, sixteen shillings, every mule carrying

six bushels, at twelve Rials a bushel, as was then the price) the

_Indian_ with another Mate of his walking along the streets to buy

some small commodities, passed by _John Ramos_ his shop, or Bodegon,

who enticing him and his Mate in, soone tripped up their heals with

a little confectioned wine for that purpose, and tooke away all his

mony from the intruded _Indian_, and beat them out of his house; who

thus drunk being forced to ride home, the _Indian_ that had received

the money, fell from his mule, and broke his neck; the other got home

without his Mate, or money. The Farmer prosecuted _John Ramos_ in the

Court for his money, but _Ramos_ being rich and abler to bribe, then

the Farmer, got off very well, and so had done formerly in almost the

like cases. These are but peccadillo's among those _Spaniards_, to make

drunke, rob, and occasion the poor _Indians_ death; whose death with

them is no more regarded nor vindicated, then the death of a sheep or

bullock, that falls into a pit. And thus having spoken of apparrell,

houses, eating and drinking, it remaines that I say somewhat of their

civility, and Religion of those who lived under the Government of the

_Spaniards_. From the _Spaniards_ they have borrowed their Civill

Government, and in all Townes they have one, or two _Alcaldes_, with

more or lesse _Regidores_, (who are as Aldermen or Jurates amongst us)

and some _Alguaziles_, more or lesse, who are as Constables, to execute

the orders of the _Alcalde_, (who is a Maior) with his Brethren. In

Towns of three or four hundred Families, or upwards, there are commonly

two Alcaldes, six Regidores, two Alguaziles Maiors, and six under,

or petty Alguaziles. And some Towns are priviledged with an _Indian_

Governour, who is above the Alcaldes, and all the rest of the Officers.

These are changed every yeer by new election, and are chosen by the

_Indians_ themselves, who take their turnes by the tribes or kindreds,

whereby they are divided. Their offices begin on New-Yeers day, and

after that day their election is carryed to the City of _Guatemala_

(if in that district it bee made) or else to the heads of Justice,

or _Spanish_ Governours of the severall Provinces, who confirm the

new Election, and take account of the last yeers expences made by the

other Officers, who carry with them their Town-Book of accounts; and

therefore for this purpose every Town hath a Clerk, or Scrivener,

called Escrivano, who commonly continueth many yeers in his office, by

reason of the paucity and unfitnesse of _Indian_ Scriveners, who are

able to bears such a charge. This Clerk hath many fees for his writings

and informations, and accounts, as have the _Spaniards_, though not so

much money or bribes, but a small matter, according to the poverty of

the _Indians_. The Governour is also commonly continued many yeers,

being some chief man among the _Indians_, except for his misdemeanours

hee bee complained of, or the _Indians_ in generall doe all stomack him.

Thus they being setled in a civill way of government, they may execute

justice upon all such _Indians_ of their Town as doe notoriously

and scandalously offend. They may imprison, fine, whip, and banish,

but hang and quarter they may not; but must remit such cases to the

_Spanish_ Governour. So likewise if a _Spaniard_ passing by the Town,

or living in it, doe trouble the peace, and misdemean himself, they

may lay hold on him, and send him to the next _Spanish_ Justice,

with a full information of his offence, but fine him, or keep him

about one night in Prison they may not. This order they have against

_Spaniards_, but they dare not execute it, for a whole Town standeth in

awe of one _Spaniard_, and though hee never so hainously offend, and

bee unruly, with oathes, threatnings, and drawing of his sword, hee

maketh them quake and tremble, and not presume to touch him; for they

know if they doe, they shall have the worst, either by blowes, or by

some mis-information, which hee will give against them. And this hath

been very often tried, for where _Indians_ have by virtue of their

order indeavoured to curbe an unruly _Spaniard_ in their Town, some of

them have been wounded, others beaten, and when they have carried the

_Spaniard_ before a _Spanish_ Justice and Governour, hee hath pleaded

for what hee hath done, saying it was in his owne defence, or for his

King and Sovereign, and that the _Indians_ would have killed him, and

began to mutiny all together against the _Spanish_ Authority, and

Government, denying to serve him with what hee needed for his way and

journey; that they would not bee slaves to give him or any _Spaniard_

any attendance; and that they would make an end of him, and of all the

_Spaniards_. With these and such like false and lying mis-informations,

the unruly _Spaniards_ have often been beleeved, and too much upheld

in their rude and uncivill misdemeanors, and the _Indians_ bitterly

curbed, and punished, and answer made them in such cases, that if they

had been killed for their mutiny and rebellion against the King, and

his best subjects they had beene served well enough; and that if they

gave not attendance unto the _Spaniard_, that passed by their Town,

their houses should bee fired, and they and their children utterly

consumed. With such like answers from the Justices, and credency to

what any base _Spaniard_ shall inform against them, the poore _Indians_

are fain to put up all wrongs done unto them, not daring to meddle

with any _Spaniard_, bee hee never so unruly, by virtue of that Order,

which they have against them. Amongst themselves, if any complaint

be made against any _Indian_, they dare not meddle with him untill

they call all his kindred, and especially the head of that Tribe, to

which hee belongeth; who if hee and the rest together, find him to

deserve imprisonment, or whipping, or any other punishment, then the

Officers of Justice, the Alcaldes or Maiors, and their Brethren the

Jurates inflict upon him that punishment; which all shall agree upon.

But yet after judgment and sentence given, they have another, which

is their last appeale, if they please, and that is to their Priest,

and Fryer, who liveth in their Town, by whom they will sometimes bee

judged, and undergoe what punishment hee shall think fittest. To the

Church therefore they often resort in points of Justice, thinking the

Preist knoweth more of Law and equity, then themselves; who sometimes

reverseth what judgement hath been given in the Town house, blaming

the Officers for their partiality and passion against their poore

Brother, and setting free the party judged by them; which the Preist

does oftentimes, if such an _Indian_ doe belong to the Church, or

to the service of their house, or have any other relation to them,

peradventure for their wives sake, whom either they affect, or imploy

in washing, or making their Chocolatte. Such, and their husbands may

live lawlesse as long as the Preist is in the Town. And if when the

Preist is absent, they call them to triall for any misdemeanor, and

whip, fine, or imprison, (which occasion they will sometimes pick out

on purpose) when the Preist returnes, they shall bee sure to heare of

it, and smart for it, yea, and the Officers themselves peradventure bee

whipped in the Church, by the Preists order and appointment; against

whom they dare not speake, but willingly accept what stripes and

punishment hee layeth upon them, judging his wisdome, sentence, and

punishing hand, the wisdome, sentence and hand of God; whom as they

have been taught to be over all Princes, Judges, worldly Officers,

so likewise they beleeve, (and have been so taught) that his Preists

and Ministers are above theirs, and all worldly power and authority.

It happened unto mee living in the Town of _Mixco_, that an _Indian_

being judged to bee whipped for some disorders, which hee committed,

would not yeeld to the sentence, but apealed to mee, saying hee would

have his stripes in the Church, and by my order, for so hee said his

whipping would doe him good, as comming from the hand of God. When

hee was brought unto mee, I could not reverse the _Indians_ judgment,

for it was just, and so caused him to be whipped, which hee tooke

very patiently and merrily, and after kissed my hands and gave mee an

offering of mony for the good hee said, I had done unto his soule.

Besides this civility of justice amongst them, they live as in other

Civill and Politick and well governed Common-wealths; for in most of

their Townes, there are some that professe such trades as are practised

among _Spaniards_. There are amongst them Smiths, Taylors, Carpenters,

Masons, Shoomakers, and the like. It was my fortune to set upon a hard

and difficult building in a Church of _Mixco_, where I desired to make

a very broad and capacious vault over the Chappell, which was the

harder to bee finished in a round circumference, because it depended

upon a triangle, yet for this work I sought none but _Indians_, some

of the Town, some from other places, who made it so compleat, that the

best & skilfullest workmen among the _Spaniards_ had enough to wonder

at it. So are most of their Churches vaulted on the top, and all by

_Indians_; they onely in my time built a new Cloister in the Town of

_Amatitlan_, which they finished with many Arches of stone both in

the lower walks and in the upper galleries, with as much perfection

as the best Cloister of _Guatemala_, had before beene built by the

_Spaniard_. Were they more incouraged by the _Spaniards_, and taught

better principles both for soule and body, doubtlesse they would among

themselves make a very good Common-wealth. For painting they are much

inclined to it, and most of the pictures, and Altars of the Country

Townes are their workmanship. In most of their Townes they have a

Schoole, where they are taught to read, to sing, and some to write. To

the Church there doe belong according as the Town is in bignesse, so

many Singers, and Trumpeters, and Waits, over whom the Preist hath

one Officer, who is called _Fiscal_; he goeth with a white Staffe with

a little Silver Crosse on the top to represent the Church, and shew

that he is the Preists Clerk and Officer. When any case is brought to

be examined by the Preist, this Fiscall or Clerk executeth Justice

by the Preists Order. He must be one that can read & write, and is

commonly the Master of Musick. He is bound upon the Lords Day and other

Saints dayes, to gather to the Church before and after Service all the

yong youths, and maids, and to teach them the Prayers, Sacraments,

Commandements, and other points of Catechisme allowed by the Church

of Rome. In the morning hee and the other Musicians at the sound of

the Bell, are bound to come to Church to sing and officiate at Masse,

which in many Townes they performe with Organs and other musicall

Instruments, (as hath beene observed before) as well as _Spaniards_.

So likewise at Evening at five of the clock they are again to resort

to the Church, when the Bell calleth, to sing Prayers, which they

call Completa's, or Completory, with _Salve Regina_, a prayer to the

Virgin Mary. This Fiscal is a great man in the Town, and beares more

sway then the Majors, Jurates, and other Officers of Justice, and

when the Preist is pleased, giveth attendance to him, goeth about his

arrants, appointeth such as are to wait on him, when hee rideth out of

Town. Both hee and all that doth belong unto the Church, are exempted

from the common weekely service of the _Spaniards_, and from giving

attendance to Travellers, and from other Officers of Justice. But

they are to attend with their Waits, Trumpets, and Musick, upon any

great man or Preist that cometh to their Town, and to make Arches with

boughes and flowers in the streets for their entertainment. Besides

these, those also that doe belong unto the service of the Preists

house, are priviledged from the _Spaniards_ service. Now the Preist

hath change of servants by the week, who take their turnes so, that

they may have a weeke or two to spare to doe their work. If it bee a

great Town, hee hath three Cookes allowed him, (if a small Town, but

two) men Cookes who change their turnes, except hee have any occasion

of feasting, then they all come. So likewise hee hath two or three more

(whom they call Chahal) as Butlers, who keepe whatsoever Provision is

in the house under lock and Key; and give to the Cooke what the Preist

appointeth to bee dressed for his dinner, or supper; these keep the

Table Clothes, Napkins, Dishes, and Trenchers, and lay the Cloth, and

take away, and wait at the Table; hee hath besides three or foure,

and in great Towns half a dozen of boyes to doe his arrants, wait at

the Table, and sleep in the house all the week by their turnes, who

with the Cookes and Butlers dine and sup constantly in the Preists

house, and at his charges. Hee hath also at dinner and supper times the

attendance of some old women (who also take their turnes) to oversee

half a dozen yong maids, who next to the Priests house doe meet to

make him, and his family Tortilla's or Cakes of Maiz, which the boyes

doe bring hot to the Table by halfe a dozen at a time. Besides these

servants, if hee have a Garden hee is allowed two or three gardeners;

and for his stable, at least half a dozen _Indians_, who morning and

evening are to bring him Sacate (as there they call it) or herb and

grasse for his Mules or Horses, these diet not in the house; but the

groome of the stable, who is to come at morning, noone, and Evening,

(and therefore are three or foure to change) or at any time that the

Preist will ride out; these I say and the Gardners (when they are at

work) dine and sup at the Priests charges; who sometimes in great

Townes hath above a dozen to feed and provide for. There are besides

belonging to the Church priviledged from the weekly attendance upon the

_Spaniards_ two or three _Indians_, called Sacristanes, who have care

of the Vestry and Copes, and Altar Clothes, and every day make ready

the Altar or Altars for Masse; also to every Company or Sodality of the

Saints, or Virgin, there are two or three, whom they call Mayordomo's,

who gather about the Towne Almes for the maintaining of the Sodality;

these also gather Egges about the Town for the Preist every week, and

give him an account of their gatherings, and allow him every moneth, or

fortnight, two Crownes for a Masse to bee sung to the Saint.

If there be any fishing place neer the Town, then the Preist also

is allowed for to seek him fish three or foure, and in some places

half a dozen _Indians_, besides the offerings in the Church, and

many other offerings which they bring whensoever they come to speak

unto the Preist, or to confesse with him, or for a Saints feast to

bee celebrated, and besides their Tithes of every thing, there is a

monethly maintenance in money allowed unto the Preist, and brought unto

him by the Alcaldes, or Maiors, and Jurates, which he setteth his hand

unto in a book of the Townes expences. This maintenance (though it be

allowed by the _Spanish_ magistrate, and paid in the Kings name for the

preaching of the Gospel) yet it comes out of the poor _Indians_ purses

and labour, and is either gathered about the Town, or taken out of the

Tribute, which they pay unto the King, or from a common plat of ground

which with the help of all is sowed and gathered in and sold for that

purpose. All the Townes in _America_, which are civilized and under the

_Spanish_ government, belong either to the Crowne, or to some other

Lords, whom they cal Encomendero's, and pay a yeerly tribute unto them.

Those that are tenants to their Lords or Encomendero's (who commonly

are such as descend from the first conquerors) pay yet unto the King

some small tribute in mony, besides what they pay in other kind of

commodities unto their owne Encomendero, and in mony also. There is no

Town so poor, where every married _Indian_ doth not pay at the least in

mony four Rials a yeer for tribute to the _King_, besides other four

Rials to his Lord, or Encomendero. And if the Town pay only to the

King, they pay at least six, and in some places eight Rials by statute,

besides what other commodities are common to the Town or Country

where they live, as Maiz, (that is paid in all Townes) hony, Turkeys,

fowles, salt, Cacao, Mantles of Cotton-wool; and the like commodities

they pay who are subject to an Encomendero; but such pay only mony,

not commodities to the King. The Mantles of tribute are much esteemed

of, for they are choise ones, and of a bigger size, then others, so

likewise is the tribute _Cacao, Achiotte, Cochinil_, where it is

paid; for the best is set apart for the tribute; and if the _Indians_

bring that which is not prime good, they shall surely be lashed, and

sent backe for better. The heads of the severall Tribes have care to

gather it, and to deliver it to the Alcaldes and Regidores, Maiors

and Jurates, who carry it either to the Kings Exchequer in the City,

or to the neerest _Spanish_ Justice (if it belong to the King) or to

the Lord, or Encomendero of the Towne. In nothing I ever perceived the

_Spaniards_ mercifull and indulgent unto the _Indians_, but in this,

that if an _Indian_ bee very weak, poore, and sickly and not able to

work, or threescore and ten yeers of age, he is freed from paying

any tribute. There be also some Towns priviledged from this tribute;

which are those that can prove themselves to have descended from

_Tlaxcallan_, or from certaine Tribes or families of or about _Mexico_,

who helped the first _Spaniards_ in the conquest of that Country. As

for their carriage and behaviour, the _Indians_ are very courteous and

loving, and of a timorous nature, and willing to serve and to obey,

and to doe good, if they be drawn by love; but where they are too much

tyrannized, they are dogged, unwilling to please, or to worke, and will

choose rather strangling and death then life. They are very trusty,

and never were known to commit any robbery of importance; so that the

_Spaniards_ dare trust to abide with them in a wildernesse all night,

though they have bags of gold about them. So for secrecy they are very

close; and will not reveal any thing against their own Natives, or a

_Spaniards_ credit and reputation, if they be any way affected to him.

But above all unto their Preist they are very respective unto him; and

when they come to speak unto him; put on their best clothes, study

their complements and words to please him. They are very abundant in

their expressions, and full of circumloquutions adorned with parables

and simile's to expresse their mind and intention. I have often sate

still for the space of an houre, onely hearing some old women make

their speeches unto me, with so many elegancies in their tongue (which

in _English_ would be non-sense, or barbarous expressions) as would

make me wonder, and learne by their speeches more of their language,

then by any other endeavour or study of mine owne. And if I could

reply unto them in the like phrases and expressions (which I would

often endeavour) I should be sure to win their hearts, and get any

thing from them. As for their Religion, they are outwardly such as the

_Spaniards_, but inwardly hard to beleeve that which is above sense,

nature, and the visible sight of the eye; and many of them to this day

doe incline to worship Idols of stocks and stones, and are given to

much superstition, and to observe crosse waies, and meeting of beasts

in them, the flying of birds, their appearing and singing neer their

houses at such and such times. Many are given to witchcraft, and are

deluded by the devill to beleeve that their life dependeth upon the

life of such and such a beast (which they take unto them as their

familiar spirit) and think that when that beast dieth they must die;

when he is chased, their hearts pant, when he is faint they are faint;

nay it happeneth that by the devils delusion they appear in the shape

of that Beast, (which commonly by their choice is a Buck, or Doe, a

Lion, or Tigre, or Dog, or Eagle) and in that shape have been shot

at and wounded, as I shall shew in the Chapter following. And for

this reason (as I came to understand by some of them) they yeeld unto

the Popish Religion, especially to the worshiping of Saints Images,

because they looke upon them as much like unto their forefathers Idols;

and secondly, because they see some of them painted with Beasts; as

_Hierom_ with a Lion, _Anthony_ with an Asse, and other wild Beasts,

_Dominick_ with a Dog, _Blas_ with a Hog, _Mark_ with a Bull, and

_John_ with an Eagle, they are more confirmed in their delusions,

and thinke verily those Saints were of their opinion, and that those

beasts were their familiar spirits, in whose shape they also were

transformed when they lived, and with whom they died. All _Indians_ are

much affected unto these Popish Saints, but especially those which are

given to witchcraft, and out of the smalnesse of their means they will

be sure to buy some of these Saints and bring them to the Church, that

there they may stand and be worshipped by them and others. The Churches

are full of them, and they are placed upon standers gilded or painted,

to be carried in procession upon mens shoulders, upon their proper day.

And from hence cometh no little profit to the Preists; for upon such

Saints daies, the owner of the Saint maketh a great feast in the Towne,

and presenteth unto the Preist sometimes two or three, sometimes four

or five crownes for his Masse and Sermon, besides a Turkey and three

or four fowls, with as much Cacao as will serve to make him Chocolatte

for all the whole _Octave_ or eight daies following. So that in some

Churches, where there are at least fourty of these Saints Statues and

Images, they bring unto the Preist at least fourty pounds a yeer.

The Preist therefore is very watchfull over those Saints daies, and

sendeth warning before hand unto the _Indians_ of the day of their

Saint, that they may provide themselves for the better celebrating it

both at home and in the Church. If they contribute not bountifully,

then the Preist will chide, and threaten that he will not preach. Some

_Indians_ through poverty have been unwilling to contribute any thing

at all, or to solemnize in the Church and at his house his Saints

day, but then the Preist hath threatned to cast his Saints image out

of the Church, saying, that the Church ought not to be filled with

such Saints as are unprofitable to soul and body, and that in such a

statues room one may stand, which may doe more good by occasioning a

solemn celebration of one day more in the yeer. So likewise if the

_Indian_ that owned one of those images die and leave children, they

are to take care of that Saint as part of their inheritance, and to

provide that his day be kept; but if no son, or heirs be left, then

the Preist calleth for the heads of the severall Tribes, and for the

chief officers of justice, and maketh a speech unto them, wherein he

declareth that part of the Church ground is taken up in vain by such

an image, and his stander, without any profit either to the Preist,

the Church, or the town, no heir or owner being left alive to provide

for that orphan Saint, to owne it; and that in case they will not seek

out who may take charge of him, and of his day, the Preist will not

suffer him to stand idle in his Church, like those whom our Saviour in

the Gospel rebuked, _quid hic statis tota die otiosi?_ for that they

stood idle in the market all the day (these very expressions have I

heard there from some Friers) and therefore that he must banish such

a Saints picture out of the Church, and must deliver him up before

them into the Justices hands to be kept by them in the Town-house,

untill such time as he may be bought and owned by some good Christian.

The _Indians_ when they hear these expressions, begin to feare, lest

some judgement may befall their Town for suffering a Saint to be

excommunicated and cast out of their Church, and therefore present unto

the Preist some offering for his prayers unto the Saint, that he may

doe them no harme, and desire him to limit them a time to bring him

an answer for the disposing of that Saint (thinking it will prove a

disparagement and affront unto their Town, if what once hath belonged

to the Church, be now out, and delivered up to the secular power) and

that in the mean time, they will find out some good Christian, either

of the neerest friends and kindred to him or them who first owned the

Saint, or else some stranger, who may buy that Saint of the Preist (if

he continue in the Church) or of the secular power (if he be cast out

of the Church and delivered up unto them, which they are unwilling

to yeeld to, having been taught of judgements in such a case like to

befall them) and may by some speedy feast and solemnity appease the

Saints anger towards them, for having been so sleighted by the Town.

Alas poore _Indians_, what will they not be brought unto by those

Friers and Preists, who study nothing more than their own ends, and to

enrich themselves from the Church and Altar! their policies (who are

the wise and prudent children of this world spoken of in the Gospel)

can easily overtop and master the simplicity of the poor _Indians_;

who rather then they will bring an affront upon their Towne, by

suffering any of their Saints to be cast out of their Church, or to

be with mony redeemed out of the secular powers hands, will make hast

to present unto him an owner of that orphan Saint, who for him shall

give to the Preist not only what he may be prized to be worth in a

Painters shop for the workmanship, gold and colours belonging to him;

but besides shall present him what before hath been observed, for the

solemnizing of his Feast. These feasts bring yet unto the Saints more

profit then hitherto hath been spoken of; for the _Indians_ have been

taught that upon such daies they ought to offer up somewhat unto the

Saints; and therefore they prepare either mony (some a Riall, some

two, some more) or else commonly about _Guatemala_ white wax-candles,

and in other places Cacao, or fruits, which they lay before the image

of the Saint, whilst the Masse is celebrating. Some _Indians_ will

bring a bundle of candles of a dozen tied together of Rials a peice

some, some of three or four for a Riall, and will if they be let alone

light them all together and burne them out, so that the Preist at the

end of the Masse will find nothing but the ends. Therefore (knowing

well of the waies of policy and covetousnesse) he chargeth the Church

officers, whom I said before were called _Mayordomo's_ to looke to the

offerings, and not to suffer the _Indians_ who bring candles to light

more then one before the Saint, and to leave the other before him

unlighted (having formerly taught them, that the Saints are as well

pleased with their whole candles as with their burnt candles) that so

hee may have the more to sell and make mony of. After Masse the Preist

and the _Mayordomo's_ take and sweep away from the Saint whatsoever

they find hath been offered unto him; so that sometimes in a great

Towne upon such a Saints day the Preist may have in mony twelve or

twenty Rials, and fifty or a hundred candles, which may be worth unto

him twenty or thirty shillings, besides some ends and pieces. Most of

the Friers about _Guatemala_ are with these offerings as wel stored

with candles, as is any Wax-chandlers shop in the City. And the same

candles, which thus they have received by offerings they need not care

to sell them away to _Spaniards_, who come about to buy them (though

some will rather sell them together to such though cheaper, that their

mony might come in all at once) for the _Indians_ themselves when they

want again any candles for the like feast, or for a Christening, and

for a womans Churching (at which times they also offer candles) will

buy their own againe of the Preist, who sometimes receiveth the same

candles and mony for them again five or six times. And because they

find that the _Indians_ incline very much to this kind of offerings,

and that they are so profitable unto them, the Friers doe much presse

upon the _Indians_ in their preaching this point of their Religion, and

devotion. But if you demand of these ignorant, but zealous offerers the

_Indians_ an account of any point of faith, they will give you little

or none. The mystery of the Trinity, and of the incarnation of Christ,

and our redemption by him is too hard for them; they will only answer

what they have been taught in a Catechisme of questions and answers;

but if you ask them if they beleeve such a point of Christianity, they

will never answer affirmatively, but only thus, Perhaps it may be so.

They are taught there the doctrin of _Rome_, that Christs body is

truely and really present in the Sacrament, and no bread in substance,

but only the accidents; if the wisest _Indian_ be asked, whether he

beleeve this, he will answer, Perhaps it may be so. Once an old woman,

who was held to be very religious, in the Town of _Mixco_, came to me

about receiving the Sacrament, and whilst I was instructing of her, I

asked her if she beleeved that Christ body was in the Sacrament, she

answered, Peradventure it may be so. A little while after to try her

and get her out of this strain and common answer, I asked her what &

who was in the Sacrament which she received from the Preists hand at

the Altar; she answered nothing for a while, and at last I pressed upon

her for an affirmative answer; and then she began to looke about to the

Saints in the Church, (which was dedicated to a Saint which they call

_St. Dominick_) and, as it seemed, being troubled and doubtful what

to say, at last she cast her eyes upon the high Altar, but I seeing

she delayed the time, asked her again who was in the Sacrament? to

which she replyed _S. Dominick_ who was the Patron of that Church and

Town. At this I smiled, and would yet further try her simplicity with

a simple question. I told her she saw _S. Dominick_ was painted with

a dog by him holding a torch in his mouth, and the globe of the world

at his feet; I asked her, whether all this were with _St. Dominick_ in

the Sacrament? To which she answered, Perhaps it might be so; wherewith

I began to chide her, and to instruct her. But mine instruction, nor

all the teaching and preaching of those _Spanish_ Preists hath not

yet well grounded them in principles of faith; they are dull and

heavie to beleeve or apprehend of God, or of heaven, more then with

sense or reason they can conceive. Yet they goe and run that way they

see the _Spaniards_ run, and as they are taught by their idolatrous

Preists. Who have taught them much formality, and so they are (as our

Formalists formerly in _England_) very formall, but little substantiall

in Religion. They have been taught that when they come to confession,

they must offer somewhat to the Preist, and that by their gifts and

almes, their sins shall be sooner forgiven; this they doe so formally

observe, that, whensoever they come to confession, but especially in

Lent, none of them dareth to come with empty hands; some bring mony,

some honey, some egs, some fowls, some fish, some Cacao, some one

thing, some another, so that the Preist hath a plentifull harvest in

Lent for his pains in hearing their Confessions. They have been taught

that also when they receive the Communion, they must surely every

one give at least a Riall to the Preist, (surely _England_ was never

taught in _America_ to buy the Sacrament with a two pence offering,

and yet this custome too much practised and pressed upon the people)

which they performe so, that I have known some poor _Indians_, who

have for a week or two forborne from coming to the Communion untill

they could get a Riall offering. It is to be wondred what the Preists

doe get from those poore wretches in great Towns by Confession and

Communion Rials in great Townes, where they denie the Sacrament to none

that will receive it, (and in some Townes I have knowne a thousand

Communicants) and force all above twelve or thirteen yeers of age to

come to Confession in the Lent. They are very formall also in observing

_Romes_ Monday, Thursday, and good-Friday, and then they make their

monuments and sepulchres, wherein they set their Sacrament, and watch

it all day and night, placing before it a Crucifix on the ground, with

two basins on each side to hold the single or double Rials, which every

one must offer when he cometh creeping upon his knees, and bare-footed

to kisse Christs hands, feet, and side. The candles which for that

day and night and next morning are burned at the sepulchre are bought

with another Contribution-Riall, which is gathered from house to house

from every _Indian_ for that purpose. Their Religion is a dear and

lick-penny religion for such poor _Indians_, and yet they are carried

along in it formally and perceive it not. They are taught that they

must remember the souls in Purgatory, and therefore that they must cast

their almes into a chest, which standeth for that purpose in their

Churches, whereof the Preist keepeth the key, and openeth it when he

wanteth mony, or when he pleaseth. I have often opened some of those

chests; and have found in them many single Rials, some halfe pieces

of eight, and some whole pieces of eight. And because what is lost

and found in the high-waies, must belong to some body, if the true

owner be not knowne, they have been taught that such monies or goods

belong also to the soules departed; wherefore the _Indians_ (surely

more for fear or vanities sake that they may be well thought on by the

Preist) if they find any thing lost will bestow it upon the soules

surer then the _Spaniards_ themselves (who if they find a purse lost

will keep it,) and will bring it either to the Preist or cast it into

the chest. An _Indian_ of _Mixco_ had found a patacon or peece of

eight in a high-way, and when he came to Confession, he gave it unto

me telling me he durst not keep it, lest the soules should appear unto

him, and demand it. So upon the second day of _November_ which they

call All soules day, they are extraordinary foolish and superstitious

in offering monies, fowles, egs and Maiz, and other commodities for

the soules good, but it proves for the profit of the Preist, who after

Masse wipes away to his chamber all that which the poore gulled and

deluded _Indians_ had offered unto those soules, which needed neither

mony, food, nor any other provision, and he fills his purse, and

pampers his belly with it. A Frier that lived in _Petapa_ boasted unto

me once that upon their All Soules day, his offerings had been about a

hundred Rials, two hundred Chickens and fowls, half a dozen Turkeyes,

eight bushels of Maiz, three hundred egs, four sontles of Cacao, (every

sontle being four hundred granes) twenty clusters of plantins, above a

hundred wax candles, besides some loaves of bread, and other trifles

of fruits. All which being summed up according to the price of the

things there, and with consideration of the coyn of mony there (halfe a

Ryall or three pence being there the least coyn) mounts to above eight

pounds of our money, a faire and goodly stipend for a Masse, brave

wages for halfe an houres work; a politick ground for that Error of

Purgatory, if the dead bring to the living Preist such wealth in one

day onely. Christmas day with the rest of those holy daies is no lesse

superstitiously observed by these _Indians_; for against that time they

frame and set in some corner of their Church a little thatched house

like a stall, which they call _Bethlehem_, with a blazing Starre over,

pointing it unto the three Sage wise men from the East; within this

stall they lay in a Crib, a child made of wood, painted and guilded

(who represents Christ new borne unto them) by him stands _Mary_ on

the one side, and _Joseph_ on the other, and an Asse likewise on the

one side and an oxe on the other, made by hands, the three wise men of

the East kneel before the Crib offering gold, Frankincense and Myrrhe,

the shepheards stand aloof off offering their Country gifts, some a

Kid, some a Lambe, some Milk, some Cheese, and Curds, some fruits, the

fields are also there represented with flocks of Sheep and Goats; the

Angels they hang about the stall some with Vialls, some with Lutes,

some with Harps, a goodly mumming and silent stage play, to draw those

simple souls to look about, and to delight their senses and fantasies

in the Church.

There is not an _Indian_ that cometh to see that supposed _Bethlehem_

(and there is not any in the Town but doth come to see it) who bringeth

not either money or somewhat else for his offering. Nay the policy of

the Preists hath been such, that (to stirre up the _Indians_ with their

Saints example) they have taught them to bring their Saints upon all

the holy dayes, untill Twelfth day in Procession unto this _Bethlehem_

to offer their gifts, according to the number of the Saints that stand

in the Church, some daies there come five, some daies eight, some

daies ten, dividing them into such order, that by Twelfth day all may

have come and offered, some money, some one thing, some another; The

owner of the Saint, hee cometh before the Saint with his friends and

kindred (if there bee no sodality or company belonging unto that Saint)

and being very well apparelled for that purpose, he bowes himselfe

and kneels to the Crib, and then rising takes from the Saint what

hee bringeth and leaveth it there, and so departs. But if there be a

sodality belonging to the Saint, then the Mayordomo's or chief Officers

of that company they come before the Saint, and doe homage, and offer

as before hath been said. But upon Twelfth day the Alcaldes, Maiors,

Jurates, and other Officers of Justice, must offer after the example

of the Saints, and the three Wise men of the East (whom the Church of

_Rome_ teacheth to have been Kings) because they represent the Kings

power and authority. And all these daies they have about the Town and

in the Church a dance of Shepheards, who at Christmas Eve at midnight

begin before this _Bethlehem_, and then they must offer a Sheep amongst

them. Others dance clothed like Angels and with wings, and all to

draw the people more to see sights in the Church, then to worship God

in Spirit and in Truth. Candlemas day is no lesse superstitiously

observed; for then the picture of _Mary_ comes in procession to the

Altar, and offereth up her Candles and Pigeons, or Turtle-Doves unto

the Preist, and all the Town must imitate her example, and bring their

Candles to be blessed and hallowed; of foure or five, or as many as

they bring, one onely shall bee restored back unto them, because they

are blessed, all the rest are for the Preist, to whom the _Indians_

resort after to buy them, and give more then ordinary, because they

are hallowed Candles. At Whitsontide they have another sight, and that

is in the Church also, whilst a Hymne is sung of the Holy Ghost, the

Preist standing before the Altar with his face turned to the people,

they have a device to let fall a Dove from above over his head well

dressed with flowers, and for above half an houre, from holes made

for that purpose, they drop down flowers about the Preist shewing the

gifts of the holy Ghost to him, which example the ignorant and simple

_Indians_ are willing to imitate, offering also their gifts unto him.

Thus all the yeer are those Preists and Fryers deluding the poore

people for their ends, enriching themselves with their gifts, placing

Religion in meer Policy; and thus doth the _Indians_ Religion consist

more in sights, shewes and formalities, then in any true substance. But

as sweet meat must have sowre sawce; so this sweetnesse and pleasing

delight of shewes in the Church hath its sowre sawce once a yeer

(besides the sowrenesse of poverty which followeth to them by giving

so many gifts unto the Preist) for, to shew that in their Religion

there is some bitterness, & sowrenesse, they make the _Indians_ whip

themselves the weeke before Easter, like the _Spaniards_, which those

simples both men and women perform with such cruelty to their owne

flesh, that they butcher it, mangle and teare their backs, till some

swound, nay some (as I have known) have died under their own whipping,

and have selfe murthered themselves, which the Preists regard not,

because their death is sure to bring them at least three or foure

Crownes for a Masse for their soules, and other offerings of their

friends.

Thus in Religion they are superstitiously led on, and blinded in the

observance of what they have been taught more for the good and profit

of their Preists, then for any good of their soules, not perceiving

that their Religion is a Policy to inrich their teachers. But not onely

doe the Fryers and Preists live by them and eat the sweat of their

browes; but also all the _Spaniards_, who not onely with their worke

and service (being themselves many given to idlenesse) grow wealthy

and rich; but with needlesse offices, and authority are still fleecing

them, and taking from them that little which they gaine with much

hardnesse and severity.

The President of _Guatemala_, the Judges of that Chancery, the

Governours and High Justices of other parts of the Country, that they

may advance and inrich their meniall servants, make the poor _Indians_

the subject of their bountifulnesse towards such. Some have offices

to visit as often as they please their Towns, and to see what every

_Indian_ hath sowed of Maiz, for the maintenance of his wife and

children; Others visit them to see what fowles they keepe for the

good and store of the County; others have order to see whether their

houses bee decently kept and their beds orderly placed according to

their Families; others have power to call them out to mend and repaire

the high wayes, and others have Commission to number the Families and

Inhabitants of the severall Townes, to see how they increase that

their Tribute may not decrease, but still bee raised. And all this,

those officers doe never perform but so, that for their pains they

must have from every _Indian_ an allowance to bear their charges,

(which indeed are none at all) for as long as they stay in the Town,

they may call for what fowles and provision they please without paying

for it. When they come to number the Townes, they call by list every

_Indian_ and cause his children, sonnes and daughters to be brought

before them, to see if they bee fit to be married; and if they be of

growth and age, and bee not married, the fathers are threatned for

keeping them unmarried, and as idle livers in the Towne without paying

tribute; and according to the number of the sonnes and daughters that

are marriageable, the fathers tribute is raised and increased, untill

they provide husbands and wives for their sons and daughters, who as

soone as they are married, are charged with tribute; which that it

may increase, they will suffer none above fifteen yeers of age to

live unmarried; Nay the set time of age of marriage appointed for the

_Indians_, is at fourteen yeers for the man, and thirteene for the

woman, alleadging that they are sooner ripe for the fruit of Wedlock,

and sooner ripe in knowledge and malice, and strength for worke and

service, then are any other people. Nay sometimes they force them to

marry who are scarce twelve and thirteene yeeres of age, if they find

them well limbed, and strong in body, explicating a point of one of

_Romes_ Canons, which alloweth fourteene and fifteen yeers, _nisi

malitia suppleat ætatem_. When I my selfe lived in _Pinola_, that Town

by order of _Don Juan de Guzman_, (a great Gentleman of _Guatemala_, to

whom it belonged) was numbred, and an increase of tributary _Indians_

was added unto it by this meanes. The numbring it lasted a full week,

and in that space I was commanded to joyne in marriage neer twenty

couple, which, with those that before had been married since the last

numbring of it, made up to the Encomendero or Lord of it an increase

of about fifty Families. But it was a shame to see how young some

were that at that time were forced to marriage, neither could al my

striving and reasoning prevail to the contrary, nor the producing of

the Register Book to shew their age, but that some were married of

between twelve and thirteene yeers of age, and one especially who in

the Register booke was found to bee not fully of twelve yeers, whose

knowledge and strength of body was judged to supply the want of age.

In this manner even in the most free act of the will, (which ought to

bee in marriage) are those poore _Indians_, forced and made slaves

by the _Spaniards_, to supply with tribute the want of their purses,

and the meannesse of their Estates. Yet under this yoke and burden

they are cheerfull, and much given to feasting, sporting and dancing,

as they particularly shew in the chief feasts of their Townes, which

are kept upon that Saints day to whom their Town is dedicated. And

certainly this superstition hath continued also in _England_ from the

Popish times, to keep Faires in many of our Towns upon Saints dayes

(which is the intent of the Papists to draw in the people and country

by way of commerce and trading one with another, to honor, worship,

and pray to that Saint, to whom the Town is dedicated) or else why are

our Faires commonly kept upon _John Baptist, James, Peter, Matthew,

Bartholomew, Holy Rood, Lady_ dayes, and the like, and not as well a

day or two before, or a day or two after, which would bee as good and

fit dayes to buy and sell, as the other? True it is, our Reformation

alloweth not the worshipping of Saints, yet that solemne meeting of

the people to Fairs and mirth, and sport upon those daies it hath kept

and continued, that so the Saints and their dayes may bee and continue

still in our remembrance. There is no Town in the _India's_ great or

small (though it be but of twenty Families) which is not dedicated thus

unto our Lady or unto some Saint, and the remembrance of that Saint is

continued in the mindes not onely of them that live in the Towne, but

of all that live farre and neere by commercing, trading, sporting, and

dancing, offering unto the Saint, and bowing, kneeling, and praying

before him. Before this day day cometh, the _Indians_ of the Town two

or three Moneths have their meetings at night, and prepare themselves

for such dances as are most commonly used amongst them; and in these

their meetings they drinke much both of Chocolatte and Chicha. For

every kind of dance they have severall houses appointed, and masters

of that dance, who teach the rest that they may bee perfected in it

against the Saints day. For the most part of these two or three moneths

the silence of the night is unquieted, what with their singing, what

with their hollowing, what with their beating upon the shels of fishes,

what with their Waits, and what with their piping. And when the feast

cometh, then they act publikely, and for the space of eight dayes, what

privately they had practised before. They are that day well apparelled

with silkes, fine linnen, ribbands and feathers according to the dance;

which first they begin in the Church before the Saint, or in the

Church yard, and from thence all the _Octave_, or eight dayes they goe

from house to house dancing, where they have Chocolatte or some heady

drink or Chicha given them. All those eight daies the Towne is sure to

bee full of drunkards; and if they bee reprehended for it; they will

answer, that their heart doth rejoyce with their Saint in heaven, and

that they must drinke unto him, that hee may remember them. The chief

dance used amongst them is called Toncontin, which hath been danced

before the King of _Spain_, in the Court of _Madrid_ by _Spaniards_,

who have lived in the _India's_ to shew unto the King somewhat of the

_Indians_ fashions; and it was reported to have pleased the King very

much. This dance is thus performed. The _Indians_ commonly that dance

it (if it bee a great Towne) are thirty or forty, or fewer, if it be

a small Town. They are clothed in white, both their dublets, linnen

drawers, and Aiates, or towels, which on the one side hang almost to

the ground. Their drawers and Aiates are wrought with some workes of

Silk, or with birds, or bordered with some Lace. Others procure dublets

and drawers and Aiates of Silk, all which are hired for that purpose.

On their backs they hang long tuffes of feathers of all colours, which

with glew are fastned into a little frame made for the purpose, and

guilded on the outside; this frame with Ribbands they tie about their

shoulders fast that it fall not, nor slacken with the motion of their

bodies. Upon their heads they wear another lesse tuffe of Feathers

either in their hats, or in some guilded or painted head-peece, or

helmet. In their hands also they carry a fan of feathers, and on their

feet most will use feathers also bound together like short wings of

birds; some weare shooes, some not. And thus from top to toe they are

almost covered with curious and coloured feathers. Their Musick and

tune to this dance is onely what is made with a hollow stock of a tree,

being rounded, and well pared within and without, very smooth and

shining, some foure times thicker then our viols, with two or three

long clefts on the upper side and some holes at the end which they call

_Tepanabaz_. On this stock (which is placed upon a stool or fourm in

the middle of the _Indians_) the Master of the dance beates with two

sticks, covered with wooll at the ends, and a pitched leather over the

wooll that it fall not away. With this Instrument and blowes upon it

(which soundeth but dull and heavy, but somewhat loud) hee giveth the

dancers their severall tunes, and changes, and signes of the mothion of

their bodies either straight or bowing, and giveth them warning what

and when they are to sing. Thus they dance in compasse and circle

round about that instrument, one following another sometimes straight,

sometimes turning about, sometimes turning half way, sometimes bending

their bodies and with the feathers in their hands almost touching the

ground, and singing the life of that their Saint, or of some other. All

this dancing is but a kind of walking round, which they will continue

two or three whole houres together in one place, and from thence goe

and perform the same at another house.

This Toncontin the chief and principall onely of the Towne doe dance

it; It was the old dance which they used before they knew Christianity,

except that then in stead of singing the Saints lives, they did sing

the praises of their heathenish Gods. They have another dance much

used, which is a kind of hunting out some wild Beast (which formerly

in time of Heathenisme was to bee sacrificed to their Gods) to bee

offered up unto the Saint. This dance hath much variety of tunes, with

a small Tepanabaz, and many shels of Tortoi's, or in stead of them

with pots covered with leather, on which they strike as on Tepanabaz,

and with the sound of pipes; in this dance they use much hollowing

and noise and calling one unto another, and speaking by way of Stage

play, some relating one thing, some another concerning the Beast they

hunt after; these dancers are all cloathed like Beasts, with painted

skins of Lions, Tigers, Wolves, and on their heads such headpieces as

may represent the head of such Beasts, and other weare painted heads

of Eagles or Fowles of rapine, and in their hands they have painted

Staves, Bils, Swords and Axes, wherewith they threaten to kill that

Beast they hunt after. Others in stead of hunting after a Beast, hunt

after a man, as Beasts in a wildernesse should hunt a man to kill him.

This man that is thus hunted after must bee very nimble and agil, as

one flying for his life, and striking here and there at the Beasts

for his defence, whom at last they catch and make a prey of. As the

Toncontin consists most of walking and turning and leasurely bending

their bodies, so this dance doth wholly consist in action, running in

a circle round, sometimes out of circle, and leaping and striking with

those tooles and instruments which they have in their hand. This is a

very rude sport, and full of scrieking and hideous noise, wherein I

never delighted. Another _Mexican_ dance they use, some clothed like

men, others like women, which in Heathenish times they did use with

singing praises unto their King or Emperour; but now they apply their

songs unto the King of Glory, or unto the Sacrament, using these or

commonly the like words with very little difference, and some variety

of praise,

_Salid Mexicanas, bailad Toncontin.

Cansalas galanas en cuerpo gentil._ And againe,

_Salid Mexicanas bailad Toncontin.

Al Rey de la gloria tenemos aqui._

Thus they goe round dancing, playing in some places very well upon

their Guitarres, repeating now and then all together a verse or two,

and calling the _Mexican_ Dames to come out to them with their gallant

Mantles to sing praise unto their King of Glory. Besides these they

have, and use our Morris dances, and Blackmore dances with Sonajas

in their hands, which are a round set of small Morris dancing bells,

wherewith they make variety of sounds to their nimble feet. But the

dance which doth draw to it the peoples wondering is a Tragedy acted by

way of dance, as the death of St. _Peter_, or the beheading of _John_

the _Baptist_. In these dances there is an Emperour, or a King _Herod_

with their Queens clothed, another cloathed with a long loose Coat who

represents St. _Peter_, or _John_ the _Baptist_, who whilst the rest

danceth, walketh amongst them with a book in his hands, as if hee were

saying his prayers, all the rest of the Dancers are apparelled like

Captaines and souldiers with Swords, Daggers, or Holbards in their

hands. They dance at the sound of a small drum and pipes, sometimes

round, sometimes in length forward, and have and use many speeches to

the Emperour or King, and among themselves concerning the apprehending

and executing the Saint. The King and Queen sit sometimes down to hear

their pleading against the Saint, and his pleading for himselfe; and

sometimes they dance with the rest; and the end of their dance is to

crucifie St. _Peter_ downwards with his head upon a Crosse, or behead

_John_ the _Baptist_, having in readinesse a painted head in a dish,

which they present unto the King and Queen, for joy whereof they all

again dance merrily and so conclude, taking down him that acted _Peter_

from the Crosse. The _Indians_ that dance this dance most of them are

superstitious for what they do, judging as if it were indeed really

acted and performed what onely is by way of dance represented. When

I lived amongst them, it was an ordinary thing for him who in the

dance was to act St. _Peter_ or _John_ the _Baptist_, to come first to

Confession, saying they must bee holy and pure like that Saint, whom

they represent, and must prepare themselves to die. So likewise hee

that acted _Herod_ or _Herodias_, and some of the Souldiers that in the

dance were to speak and to accuse the Saints, would afterwards come to

confesse of that sinne, and desire absolution as from bloodguiltinesse.

More particular passages of the _Indians_ according to my experience of

them, I shall in the Chapter following truly relate unto my Reader.

CHAP. XX.

_Shewing how and why I departed out of_ Guatemala _to learne the

Poconchi language, and to live among the_ Indians, _and of some

particular passages and accidents whilst I lived there._

Having read in the University of _Guatemala_ for three years space a

whole course of Arts, and having begun to read part of Divinity, the

more I studied and grew in knowledge, and the more I controverted by

way of Arguments some Truths and points of Religion, the more I found

the spirit of Truth inlightening me, and discovering unto me the

lies, errors, falsities and superstitions of the Church of _Rome_. My

conscience was much perplexed, and wavering, and I desirous of some

good and full satisfaction: Which I knew might not bee had there; and

that to professe and continue in any opinion contrary to the Doctrine

of _Rome_, would bring mee to the Inquisition, that Rack of tender

Consciences, and from thence to no lesse then burning alive, in case

I would not recant of what the true Spirit had inspired into mee. The

point of Transubstantiation, of Purgatory, of the Popes power and

authority, of the merit of mans workes, of his free will to choose

all soul-saving wayes, the sacrifice of the Masse, the halving the

Sacrament of the Lords Supper unto the Lay people, the Preists power to

absolve from sinne, the worshipping of Saints though with δουλεία, as

they call it, and not with λατρεία, and the Virgin _Mary_ with a higher

degree of worship then that of the Saints, which they call ὑπερδουεία;

the strange lies and blasphemies which they call miracles recorded in

the Legend and lives of their Saints, the infallibility of the Pope,

and councell in defining for truth and point of Faith, what in it selfe

is false and erroneous; these points especially, with many more of

_Romes_ policies, and the lewd lives of the Preists, Fryers, Nuns, and

those in authority, did much trouble and perplex my conscience, which

I knew would bee better satisfied if I could returne againe to my owne

Countrey of _England_, where I knew many things were held contrary

to the Church of _Rome_, but what particulars they were, I could not

tell, not having been brought up in the Protestant Church, and having

been sent young over to _St. Omers_. Wherefore I earnestly addressed

my selfe to the Provincial; and to the President of _Guatemala_, for

a licence to come home, but neither of them would yeeld unto it,

because there was a strict order of the King and Councell, that no

Preist sent by his Majesty to any of the parts of the _India's_ to

Preach the Gospell, should return againe to _Spain_ till ten yeers were

expired. Hereupon I seeing my self a Prisoner, and without hopes for

the present of seeing _England_ in many yeers, resolved to stay no more

in _Guatemala_, but to goe out to learne some _Indian_ tongue, and to

preach in some of their Townes, where I knew more money might bee got

to help mee home, when the time should come, then if I did continue to

live in the Cloister of _Guatemala_. Yet in the mean time I thought it

not unfit to write to _Spain_ to a friend of mine an _English_ Fryer in

_San Lucar_, called Fryer _Pablo de Londres_ to desire him to obtain

for mee a License from the Court, and from the Generall of the Order

at _Rome_, that I might return unto my Country. In this season there

was in _Guatemala_, Fryer _Francisco de Moran_, the Prior of _Coban_

in the Province of _Vera Paz_, who was informing the President and

whole Chancery, how necessary it was that some _Spaniards_ should bee

ayding and assisting him for the discovery of a way from that Country

unto _Jucatan_, and for the suppressing of such barbarous people and

Heathens, as stopped his passage, and did often invade some _Indian_

Towns of Christians. This _Moran_ (being my speciall friend, and

having been brought up in _Spaine_ in the Cloister of _San Pablo de

Valladolid_, where my selfe was first entred Frier,) was very desirous

of my company along with him, for the better bringing into Christianity

those Heathens, and Idolaters, telling me that doubtlesse in a new

Countrey new treasure and great riches was like to be found, whereof

no small share and portion should befall him and me for our pains and

adventure. I was not hard to be perswaded, being above all desirous

to convert to Christianity a people that had never heard of Christ;

and so purposed to forsake that honour which I had in the Universitie,

for to make Christ knowne unto that Heathenish people. The Provinciall

was glad to see this my courage, and so with some gifts and mony in my

purse, sent me with _Moran_ to the _Vera Paz_ in the company of 50.

_Spaniards_, who were appointed by the President to aid and assist us.

When we came to _Coban_ we were well refreshed and provided for a hard

and dangerous enterprize. From _Coban_ we marched to two great Townes

of Christians called _St. Peter_, and _St. John_, where were added unto

us a hundred _Indians_ for our further assistance. From these Towns

two daies journey we could travail on Mules safely among Christians

and some small villages; but after the two daies we drew neer unto the

Heathens Frontiers, where there was no more open way for Mules, but we

must trust unto our feet. We went up and down mountaines amongst woods

for the space of two daies, being much discouraged with the thickets

and hardnesse of the way, and having no hope of finding out the

Heathens. In the night we kept watch and guard for feare of enemies,

and resolved yet the third day to goe forward. In the mountaines we

found many sorts of fruits and in the bottomes springs and brookes with

many trees of Cacao and Achiotte. The third day we went on, and came to

a low valley, in the midst whereof ran a shallow river, where we found

some _Milpa's_ or plantations of Maiz. These were a testimony unto us

of some _Indians_ not far off, and therefore made us keep together

and be in readinesse, if any assault or onset should be made upon us

by the Heathens. Whilst we thus travelled on, we suddenly fell upon

halfe a dozen poore cottages, covered with boughes and plantin leaves,

and in them wee found three _Indian_ women, two men and five young

children, all naked, who faine would have escaped, but they could not.

We refreshed our selves in their poore cottages and gave them of our

provision, which at the first they refused to eat, howling and crying

and pulling, till _Moran_ had better incouraged and comforted them,

whose language they partly understood. We clothed them and tooke them

along with us, hoping to make them discover unto us some treasure or

some bigger plantation. But that day they were so sullen that we could

get nothing out of them. Thus we went on, following some tracks which

here and there we found of _Indians_, till it was almost evening,

and then we did light upon above a dozen cottages more, and in them

a matter of twenty men, women, and children, from whom we tooke some

bows and arrowes, and found there store of plantins, some fish, and

wild Venison, wherewith we refreshed our selves. These told us of a

great Towne two daies journey off, which made us be very watchfull that

night. Here I began with some more of our company to be sick and weary,

so that the next day I was not able to goe any further; whereupon we

resolved to set up our quarters there, and to send out some scouts of

_Indians_ and _Spaniards_ to discover the country, who found further

more cottages and plantations of Maiz, of Chile, of Turkey beans, and

Cotton-wooll, but no _Indians_ at all, for they were all fled. Our

scouts returned, and gave us some incouragement from the pleasantnesse

of the Country; but withall wished us to be watchfull and carefull,

for that certainly the flight of those _Indians_ was a signe that our

coming was noised about the Country. The next day we purposed to move

forward to that plantation which our scouts had discovered, being (as

we were informed) safer and more open to foresee any danger ready to

befall us. All these plantations lay along by the river, where the sun

was exceeding hot, which had caused feavers and a flux in some of us.

With much wearinesse and faintnesse I got that day to our journeys end,

beginning now to repent mee of what I was ingaged in and on foot, and

fearing some suddain danger, by reason our coming was now known by the

_Indians_. The prisoners we had with us began to tell us of some gold

that they did sometimes find in that river, and of a great lake yet

forward, about which did inhabit many thousand _Indians_, who were very

warlike, and skilfull in their bows and arrows. The one incouraged

some, the other much discouraged the rest, who wished themselves out of

those woods and unknown places, and began to murmur against _Moran_,

who had been the cause of their ingagement in that great danger. Our

night was set, and I and the rest of the sick _Spaniards_ went to rest,

some upon the bare ground, but my self and others in hamacca's, which

are of net work tied at two posts or trees, and hanging in the aire,

which with the least stirring of the body, rocke one asleep as in a

Cradle. Thus I tooke my rest till about midnight; at which time our

watches gave an alarm against our approaching enemies, who were thought

to be about a thousand. They came desperately towards us, and when they

saw they were discovered, and our drums beat up, and our fowling peeces

and muskets began to shoot, they hollowed and cried out with a hideous

noise, which uproar and suddain affrightment, added sweat and fear to

my feaver. But _Moran_ (who came to confesse with mee, and to prepare

himselfe for death or for some deadly wound) comforted me, wishing me

to fear nothing, and to lie still, for that I could doe them no good,

and that lesse was my danger then I apprehended, because our Souldiers

had compassed me about, so that on no side the Heathens could come in,

and flie we could not without the losse of all our lives. The skirmish

lasted not above an hour, and then our enemies began to flie back. We

tooke ten of them, and in the morning found thirteen dead upon the

ground, and of ours five onely were wounded, whereof one died the next

day.

In the morning our Souldiers began to mutiny and to talke of returning

back, fearing a worse and more violent onset that day or the night

following, for some of the _Indians_ who were taken, told them plainly

that if they went not away there would come six or seven thousand

against them. They told us further, that they knew well that the

_Spaniards_ had all the country about, except that little portion of

theirs, which they desired to enjoy quietly and peaceably, and not

to meddle with us, but rather if we would see their countrey and goe

through it as friends, they would let us without doing us any hurt;

but if we came in a warlike manner to fight and to bring them into

slavery, as we had done their neighbours, they were all resolved to

die fighting rather then to yeeld. With these words our Souldiers

were divided, some with _Moran_ were of opinion to try the _Indians_,

and to go peaceably through their Country til they could come to some

Towne of _Jucatan_; others were of opinion to fight, others to return

back again, considering their weakenesse against so many thousands of

_Indians_ as were in the Country. But that day nothing was agreed upon,

for that we could not stir by reason of the sick and wounded. So we

continued there that night, and as the night before much about the same

time the enemies came againe upon us, but finding us ready and watching

for them, they soone fled. In the morning we resolved to returne back,

and _Moran_ sent the Heathens word, that if they would let him goe

through their country quietly to discover some land of _Jucatan_, he

would after a few monthes come peaceably unto them with halfe a dozen

_Indians_, no more, trusting his life upon them; whom he knew if they

wronged, all the _Spaniards_ in the country would rise up against them,

and not leave one alive. They answered that they would entertaine him,

and any few _Indians_ well and willingly; all which _Moran_ and they

performed according to their agreement the next yeer following.

Thus we returned that day backe the same way that we had come, and I

began to find my self better, and my feaver to leave me. We carried

with us some of those young children which we had taken, to present

them unto the President of _Guatemala_. And in _Coban_ the Prior

_Moran_ thought he might first do God good service if he christened

those yong children, saying that they might become Saints, and that

afterwards their prayers might prevaile with God for the conversion

of their parents and of all that country to Christianity. I could not

but oppose this his ignorance, which seemed much like unto that of

the Friers who entred _America_ with _Cortez_, and increased after

the conquest daily more in number, who boasted to the Emperour, that

they had some of them made above thirty thousand _Indians_ Christians

by baptizing them; which truely they did as sheep are forced to the

waters and driven to be washed; so were those first _Indians_ by

thousands sprinkled (or if I may use their word, baptized) for they

were driven by compulsion & force to the rivers, neither were they

first principled in any grounds of belief and Christianity, neither

themselves beleevers, nor children of of beleeving and faithfull

parents. So would _Moran_ christen these children, though I told him

that they ought not to partake of that sacrament and Ordinance of

Christ, unlesse they were grounded in articles of Christianity and

beleeved, or were children of beleeving parents. But as he had been

brought up in errours, whereof that Church of _Rome_ is a wide and

spatious nest, so he would be obstinate in this point against me and

the truth, sprinkling with water those children, and naming them with

names of Christians. After this he sent them well apparelled to the

President of _Guatemala_, who commanded them to be kept, and brought up

in the Cloister of the Dominican Friers.

I remained after this for a while in _Coban_, and in the Townes about,

untill such time as the ships came to the Gulfe; whither I went with

_Moran_ to buy wines, oyle, iron, cloth and such things as the Cloister

wanted for the present. At which time there being a frigate ready to

depart to _Truxillo_ (some occasions drawing _Moran_ thither) I tooke

ship with him. We staied not much above a week in that Port (which is a

weak one, as the _English_ and _Hollanders_ taking of it can witnesse)

but presently we thought of returning back to _Guatemala_ by land

through the countrey of _Comayagua_, commonly called _Honduras_. This

is a woody and mountainous countrey, very bad and inconvenient for

Travellers, and besides very poore; there the commodities are Hides,

_Canna fistula_, and _Zarzaparilla_, and such want of bread, that

about _Truxillo_ they make use of what they call _Cassave_, which is

a dry root, that being eaten dry doth choak, and therefore is soaked

in broth, water, wine or Chocolatte, that so it may go down. Within

the Countrey, and especially about the City of _Comayagua_ (which is

a Bishops seat, though a small place of some five hundred inhabitants

at the most) there is more store of Maiz by reason of some _Indians_,

which are gathered to Townes, few and small. I found this Countrey

one of the poorest in all _America_. The chief place in it for health

and good living is the valley which is called _Gracias a Dios_, there

are some rich farms of Cattle and Wheat; but because it lieth as

neer to the Countrey of _Guatemala_ as to _Comayagua_, and on this

side the waies are better then on that, therefore more of that Wheat

is transported to _Guatemala_ and to the Townes about it, then to

_Comayagua_ or _Truxillo_. From _Truxillo_ to _Guatemala_ there are

between fourescore and a hundred leagues, which we travelled by land,

not wanting in a barren Countrey neither guides nor provision, for the

poore _Indians_ thought neither their personall attendance, nor any

thing that they enjoyed too good for us.

Thus we came again to _Guatemala_, and were by the Friers joyfully

entertained, and by the President highly rewarded, and by the City

called true Apostles, because we had ventured our lives for the

discovery of Heathens, and opened a way for their conversion, and

found out the chief place of their residence, and sent before us those

children to the City, who witnessed with being in the Cloister our

pains and indeavours. _Moran_ was so puffed up with the Presidents

favour, and the popular applause, that he resolved in _Guatemala_

to venture again his life, and, according to that message which he

had sent before to the Heathen _Indians_, to enter amongst them in a

peaceable way with halfe a dozen _Indians_. He would fain have had me

gone with him; but I considered the hardnesse of the journey, which I

thought I should not be able to perform on foot; and also I feared that

the _Barbarians_ might mutiny against us for those children which we

had brought; and lastly I liked not the Countrey, which seemed poore

and not for my purpose, to get meanes sufficient to bring me home

to _England_, which was the chiefest thought and desire of my heart

for the satisfaction of my conscience, which I found still unquiet.

Wherefore I resolved to forsake the company of my friend _Moran_,

and to desist from new discoveries of Heathens, and such difficult

undertakings, which might endanger my health and life, and at last

bring no profit, but only a little vain glory, fame and credit in that

Countrey. I thought I might better employ my time, if I learned some

_Indian_ tongue neerer to _Guatemala_, where I considered the riches

of the Townes, the readinesse of the _Indians_, and their willingnesse

to further their Preists wants; and lastly, their ignorance in some

points of Religion, which I thought I might help and clear with some

sound doctrin, and with preaching Christ crucified unto them, and

bringing them unto that rock of eternall blisse and salvation. I

trusted in my friends so much, that I knew it would not be hard for me

to take my choice of any place about _Guatemala_; from whence I might

facilitate my returne to _England_, and write to _Spain_, and have

every yeer an answer easier then any where else. I opened my mind

unto the Provinciall (who was then at _Guatemala_) and he presently

and willingly condescended to my request, and counselled me to learn

the _Poconchi_ language, (whereof I had already got some grounds in

the _Vera Paz_) which is most used about _Guatemala_, and also is

much practised in _Vera Paz_, and in the Countrey of _San Salvador_.

He promised to send me to the Town of _Petapa_, to learne there the

language, with a speciall friend of his named Frier _Peter Molina_, who

was very old, and wanted the help and company of some younger person

to ease him in the charge that lay upon him, of so great a Towne, and

many Travellers that passed that way. The Provinciall as if he had

knowne my mind, pitched upon my very hearts desire; and thus two weeks

before _Midsummer_ day I departed from _Guatemala_ to _Petapa_, which

is six leagues from thence, and there setled my selfe to learn that

_Indian_ tongue. The Friers of those parts that are any way skilful in

the _Indian_ languages, have composed Grammars & Dictionaries for the

better furthering of others who may supply their places after their

decease; but whilst they live are unwilling to teach the languages unto

others, lest their schollers should after a good and well grounded

knowledge of the tongues, supplant their own Masters, and be means of

taking from them that great profit which they have by living as Curates

in the _Indian_ Townes. Yet this old _Molina_ considering himselfe in

yeers, and for his good friends sake the Provinciall, was not unwilling

to accept of my company, and to impart unto me what knowledge he

had got by many yeers practice of the _Poconchi_ tongue. He gave me

therefore a short abstract of all the rudiments belonging unto it,

which did consist chiefely of declining Nounes, and conjugating Verbs,

(which I easily learned in the first fortnight that I had been with

him) and then a Dictionary of _Indian_ words, which was all the rest of

my study to get without book, untill I was able of my selfe to preach

unto the _Indians_, which with much easinesse I obtained by discoursing

and conferring with them, what with my private study I had learned.