west, and, flowing in that direction a distance of 11 days’ journey,
(Browne,) it falls into lake Fittre, certainly the Nuba Palus of
Ptolemy. The coincidence is very remarkable. Lake Fittre is two days
journey south-east of the Bahr-el-Gazalle. The size of this lake varies
in the relations given by different travellers. Some make it four days’
journey in circumference, others 15. The difference may proceed from the
one account relating to the magnitude in the dry, and the other in the
rainy season, and estimating by different scales. This lake is also
called by the Arabs Caudee and Bahr-el-Noëh. According to a tradition,
the waters of the deluge were absorbed in it. A very high mountain is
situate near it. (_Bowditch_, p. 203.) It is evidently the same lake as
that mentioned by Leo, as lying 150 miles east of Bornou. From Dar Saley
to lake Fittre, the country, it would appear, is rather flat than
mountainous, and much flooded during the rains. (_Burk._ p. 484.)
Towards the Bahr-el-Gazalle the land is woody, and the soil clayey.
(_Browne_.)
Issuing from lake Fittre, the river takes a western course. According to
the accounts obtained by Ritchie, it is hereabouts one mile broad, and
very deep. (_Quart. Rev._ May, 1820.) At the distance of 12 days’
journey from the lake, (_Bowditch_, p. 203,) the river is joined by a
large stream descending from the north-east, and called the Sharee or
Shary. Burkhardt also was informed that it flowed from north-east to
south-west, and was as large as the Nile in Egypt, (2000 feet broad,)
full of fish, and abounding in crocodiles. This stream, there is reason
to believe, is also called the river of Baghermee. From its magnitude at
its junction with the Gir, the sources must be remote, and towards the
eastern parts of the mountains of Tibbou of Bilmah. In these parts,
according to Burkhardt, (p. 488,) the country is flat, flooded during
the rains, and fine water is abundant found even during the dry season,
upon slightly digging the sands. Therefore it is called _Bahr_. The
sweetness of the water shews that it is entirely free from the saline
particles of the desert, and, therefore, on the confines of those
countries where rivers spring forth. Perhaps this is the stream which
forms the Chelonidæ Paludes of Ptolemy. A considerable river, called the
Bahr Djad, runs into the Shary on its western side, before the junction
of the latter with the great river. Also, on the eastern side, the
Shary, in like manner, receives a still more considerable stream, called
Bahr-el-Feydh, or _inundating river_. (_Burk._ p. 478 and 479.) On this
river, or near it, according to the same authority, is situated Kanem in
the Bahr-el-Gazalle. Edrisi mentions a river called the Nile, three
days’ journey from the town of Angimi, in the province of Kanem.
According to Bowditch, (p. 213,) six days’ journey east of the confines
of Bornou, and close to Aweeac, travellers pass a very large river,
called by the negro merchants Zerookoo Kerooboobie. It is evidently the
Shary, which is said to be 15 days’ slow march eastward of the confines
of Bornou. (_Burkhardt_.)
From the junction of the Shary the great river continues a westerly
course, and, it is probable, under different names. The exact course is
not readily delineated. Nevertheless we cannot err far in the chief
features. At no great distance from the junction of the Shary, the
mighty stream approaches within half a day’s journey of the capital of
Bornou, and passes the port of this city named Gambarou. Here it is
joined by another river from the northward; but whether this river is
called Kamadkoo, (the same as the Kammadoo mentioned to Mr. Hutchison,
_Bowd._ p. 213,) and the great river, Tshadi or Tzad; or, that the great
river bears the former name, and the river from the north the latter, it
is difficult in the present state of our information to determine.
Hornemann was informed that the river of Bornou was called Zad, and that
it was a mile broad. Burkhardt was also informed, that the river was
called Tzad, and he was told that it flowed at a short distance from the
capital; therefore, the Tzad may be taken as the proper name of the
great river, particularly as we find it bears that name in its lower
course. The river, coming from the northward, as conjectured by
Burkhardt, probably springs from Mount Dirka, in the great range of
hills south of the desert of Bilmah. These mountains lie nearly under
the tropic of Cancer, and in about 21° east longitude, corresponding
with the chain Girgiris of Ptolemy. The river that he mentions springing
from Mount Girgiris in two places, 5° of longitude separate, may be the
river we have mentioned, or the Shary. The resemblance is very striking.
Across a desert 200 miles broad, and south-east from Fezzan, lies the
country of Tibesti, full of fertile vales and mountains, affording
excellent pasturage. Though it never rains in this country, still
springs are abundant. In this country, therefore, and to the southward
and eastward of it, in all probability, rise all the rivers which flow
south from the river, which passes the capital of Bornou to the Shary.
From the extent of country through which these flow, it is evident that
they must be powerful streams.
A native of Bornou informed Dr. Seitzen, that the river, within a mile
of the city, was as large as the Nile in Egypt, abounding with
hippopotami and fish. It was navigated by vessels having sails and oars.
It overflowed its banks, and, during the inundation, a virgin female
slave, richly dressed, is thrown into the river by order of the king.
Bowditch, (p. 218,) was informed, that a small river, called Gaboöa, ran
southwards near Bornou; and Burkhardt was told, that the river formed a
lake of a considerable size, on the west side of which stood Birney, the
capital of Bornou, a city of such magnitude, that travellers, in
describing it, state, “_Cairo was a trifle to it_.” Other authorities,
however, deny the existence of any lake; and, whether the river Gaboöa
mentioned to Bowditch, is the same as that alluded to by Burkhardt, it
is difficult to determine. They may be the same; and the smallness of
the Gaboöa may be estimated in comparison with the great river.
All the countries through which the rivers we have mentioned flow are
very mountainous and woody, and greatly inundated by the tropical rains.
They are also populous, powerful, and well cultivated. The inhabitants
are great traders. Bornou is a mighty empire. Its authority is
acknowledged to the banks of the Niger. The sovereign is represented as
more powerful than the emperor of Morocco. Wangara and Kashna are
subject to him. This country is situated a great deal farther to the
southward and the westward than has hitherto been allowed. Burkhardt is
of opinion that it lies not much to the eastward of south from Fezzan.
According to Browne, (p. 448,) from Cubcabea in Darfur, by Wara to
Bornou, is 60 days’ journey. This places it much to the westward. Two
things prove its southern position: First, its territories are said to
extend to within 20 days’ journey of the Bahr-el-Abiad. Second,
elephants are found there, which animals, it is well known, cannot live
in the dry countries to the northward. The country of Bornou is, in
general, level, and very rich and fertile. It produces maize, rice,
beans, cotton, hemp, indigo in abundance, grapes, apricots,
pomegranates, lemons, limes, melons, &c. and plenty of sheep, goats,
camels, horses, buffaloes, and horned cattle. There are also lions,
leopards, wolves, foxes, elephants, and the rivers abound with fish,
crocodiles, and hippopotami. This country is what was known to the early
Arabian geographers as the land of Kanem, a very extensive region and
powerful state, ruled by the Beni Wayl, one of the most ancient and
powerful of all the Arabian tribes.
From the port of Bornou, the Gir (for we shall retain the ancient name)
continues its course west, declining southward; and, from the accounts
received by Ritchie, at a distance of 12 days’ journey, reaches Cano, no
doubt the ancient Ghana. Bowditch calls it Kano, or Kanoo, and makes the
distance 24 days’ journey. Ritchie’s informant, however, might mean the
frontier of the kingdom, while the distance given to Bowditch, extends
from capital to capital. The river here, according to Ritchie, is called
Tshadi. Bowditch, (p. 211,) says he was informed that the river skirted
Kano and Oongooroo, or Vancara. In the Geography of Joannes Bleav, (p.
105,) it is particularly mentioned that the kingdom of Cano extends,
_for a part only_, along the channel of the Nile on the right hand. This
would serve to shew, if correct, that the course of the stream turned
more to the southward, leaving the territories of Cano. This is by no
means improbable. A difficulty, however, here occurs, as we shall see
presently. Ritchie’s informant appears to make the river continue
westward to Kassena, which he stated was only 5 days’ journey from Cano;
here again he seems to mean the frontier of the former kingdom, for
Bowditch was informed that the distance was 10 days’ journey. Ritchie’s
informant, Hadji Hamet, states that Kassena, (Cassena, or Cashna) was
upon the river here called Gulbe; and as broad as from the gate of
Tripoli to the Bazaar on the sands, or _one-third_ of a mile. It would
appear, however, that when speaking of the Gulbe, he is speaking of a
different river to the great river. The name of the latter above Kashna,
is Tshadi. The name far from and below it is Tshadi also. It is not at
all probable that he would mention the river in Kashna under a different
name to that which the same stream bore, both above and below that city.
Besides, the magnitude of the Gulbe, only one-third of a mile, would
shew it to be a different river from the Tshadi, which, and much nearer
its source, is represented by various authorities as three times the
breadth of the Gulbe. Hornemann also heard that in the country of Houssa
and Kashna, there was a river called Gulbe.
Mr. Lucas was informed that Kashna was 5 days’ journey, about 65 miles
north of the great river. Bowditch, (pages 207 and 211,) gives it the
same distance; for he states that, three days’ journey from Goobur, and
13 from the Niger, travellers, in their route to Kashna, pass “_a large
river_.” The point to be determined here is, what river is it that is
here mentioned? It is not the Niger. If it was the Gir continuing to
flow westward, then that stream would join the Niger at the place where
the ferry mentioned by Sidi Hamed is placed: but, on the other hand, it
may be a stream descending from the north, and which, passing Kashna
under the name of Gulbe, flows south to join the Gir, the latter river
having previously bent its course in that direction. Sheeref Imhammed
says that the Nile, or the great river, flows west through the kingdom
of Kashna with a rapidity no vessel can stem; and that its breadth at
the island called Gongoo, where the ferry men reside, is so great, that
the sound of the loudest voice from the northern shore can scarcely be
heard. Its depth is 24 feet. Still, however, this river may be said to
run westward through the kingdom of Kashna, and not reach the Niger at
the point supposed. It may also there join the Niger, and yet, previous
to its doing so, receive the waters of the Gulbe from the northward.
Whoever casts his eye upon the map, and considers the nature and extent
of the country to the northward of Kashna, must perceive that it is not
at all probable such a great space can be destitute of rivers. The
cultivated country commences from the Tropic, 450 miles to the
northward. A river descends from the Tropic of Cancer, and passes
Agadez. D’Anville calls it Wad-el-Mezzeran, and makes it rise in about
26° north latitude. He says the caravans from Tripoli to Nigritia
(perhaps kingdom of Kashna,) perform seven days’ journey along its
banks. The authors of the Encyclopedia Britannica affirm, that this
river joins the Niger. In the French maps of 1757, drawn by Robert de
Vagondy for the king of France, this river is laid down as joining the
Niger about 250 miles below Timbuctoo. It is also curious, that in all
the old maps of Africa, (particularly that by Ortelius, in 1570, and
that by Joannis Bleav, 1662.) various rivers are laid down as flowing
from the northward and joining the Niger. Cassena, in particular, is
laid down by Ortelius on a river; and the river of Agadez is laid down
as running into lake Guber. For these things, these authors certainly
had positive, though not perfectly accurate information. Upon the whole,
however, comparing their accounts with those of the most recent date,
there seems the best reason to believe that Kashna does stand upon a
river descending from the north, but whether it is the same with that
which passes Agadez or not, I cannot take upon me to determine. The
probability is, that it is the same.
Kashna, it would appear, stands in 15° north latitude, and 11° 30′ east
longitude. At this rate Cano, 130 miles, or 2° farther east, will stand
very nearly where Ptolemy has placed his Gira metropolis. This city
stood in 18° north latitude, and 36° east longitude, which, corrected as
before mentioned, is about 13° east of Greenwich. This correction agrees
very well with what Ptolemy says in another place, namely, that this
city was in time 1⅛ hour, (or 17° nearly) west of Alexandria, which is
exactly 13° east of Greenwich.
Though, from the reasons mentioned, there is a very great probability
that a river, or the great river from the east, does join the Niger
above or near Yaoora, still the silence of Sidi Hamed and Bowditch, with
others, upon that important point, leaves a doubt on the subject. That
junction, perhaps, takes place lower down, and if so, must be below
Wassanah. That such a junction does take place, must be self-evident,
and is, moreover, positively stated. Bowditch was informed that the
Moors call the Niger Quolla at Jinnë, and Sansanding, &c. and describes
the Joliba as falling into the Quolla, east of Timbuctoo (p. 191.) Here
the names are evidently misplaced, no uncommon thing with Arab
travellers. (Burkhardt, p. 489,) states that the Tzad of Bornou, and the
Joliba were connected together. Leo Africanus also states the same
thing, when he says that, during the inundation, “a man in a bark may
pass over all the land of the Negroes.” (_Purchas_, lib. 6. c. 1. p.
765.) In the present state of our information, the greatest difficulty
is to determine the exact point where that junction takes place. The
accounts concerning this portion of Africa are, as regards these more
minute points, very confused and unsatisfactory. The grand features,
however, we are still enabled to trace with considerable precision.
It is quite common for the Moors, the Arabs, and the Negroes, in their
descriptions of countries through which they pass, to reverse the course
of rivers, by placing the geographical line, or bearing, of the bed of
each as the course of the stream. It is also very common for them to
describe, as one, different rivers which may in their course approach
near each other, and to state as a continuation of a river, any stream
that joins another coming from an opposite direction. Of these, numerous
instances might be given from the narratives of all their authors and
travellers. A few may here suffice. Abulfeda says “the Egyptian Nile
goes on to the land of the Zingians (Ethiopians;”) and Scheabeddin
states, that “many rivers derived from this great river, water Nubia,
&c.” Now the Nile does not go to these countries, but is formed by
various streams flowing from them. Three Moors described to Bowditch the
course of the Niger to Egypt thus: One began it, or made it rise at the
mouth of the Senegal,—one in Bambouk, and continuing it along the
Senegal, came to the Niger above Sego,—where the third made it rise, and
then all three carried the course of the stream down to Yaoora, thence
to Noofee, thence to Rakah, thence to Bornou, thence to Dar Saley,
thence to Darfur, thence to Sennaar, and thence to Egypt; thus embracing
and marking as one, four distinct rivers, all running in different
directions. In short, they identify the course of the rivers with the
direction of their journey: But having one or more sure points to direct
us, such as the course of the Niger east, and the course of the Gir
west, it will enable us to decypher with ease, many apparent
inconsistencies in accounts given by the Moors, Arabs, or Negroes; and
explain their meaning about the Joliba and the river of Bornou being one
stream, as well as other things of a similar description.
The eastern parts of Sudan, or Central Africa, which we have been
considering, exhibit features very different to what has hitherto been
believed. The mountains are numerous, and, as in Zegzeg, of a stupendous
height. Around Agadez, the country is delightful, fruitful, and
populous. Kashna is beautifully diversified with hill and dale,
delightfully wooded, and well cultivated. Here and there to the
northward, strips of desert countries, and a bare ridge intervenes, but
the fruitful land prevails. The rivers, which are found in almost every
part, are of great magnitude. Ritchie was informed that, in that part of
its course due south of Fezzan, the great river is so broad, that people
can scarcely see an object on the opposite bank. Cities of very
considerable magnitude rear their heads on every side, and at short
distances from each other. Commerce is active; cultivated fields, flocks
and herds, every where meet the eye. None of these things could be found
in a country wild or full of sandy deserts, or inhabited by mere
savages.
In this part of Africa, all accounts agree, the streams bend their
course to the southward. Amadou Fatouma, “who was the greatest traveller
in this part of Africa, told Park that he was certain that the Niger did
not terminate either in Kashna or Bornou, as he had been in both these
places; but that, after passing Kashna, the river turned, _and_ ran to
the right hand (south.”) Its further course was to him unknown.
Hornemann was informed that the Niger flowed southward from Houssa. Park
was informed (so was Hornemann) that the Niger declined south, till it
joined the Bahr Kulla. Scheabeddin evidently points out the southerly
course of the Niger, when he says, that, except the Nile of Egypt, which
runs north, all the other “rivers of Africa have their direction to the
east, to the west, and _to the south_.” There could be no other great
river known to the Arabs in his days that flowed south but the Niger.
Taking it as certain that the Gir, or Tshadi, joins the Niger below
Wassanah, we will return to that part of its course where it must turn
to the south-west. This will be between Cano and Kashna. This
necessarily leads us to consider the kingdom or province of Guangara,
mentioned by Leo, and, no doubt, the same as the Vancara of Edrisi, and
the Owencara of Ibn-al-Vardi. This country is certainly not only
situated upon a river, but at the junction of one or more rivers.
Bowditch, (page 212,) informs us that it is called Oongooroo, being a
negro corruption of the Arabic name. It lay between Kano and Bornou, and
was skirted by a river on the north: at present, it seems much reduced
in its opulence and extent. According to Leo, it extended westward as
far as Zamfra or Zamfara, which, we learn from Bowditch, adjoins Guber
on the north-west. On the east it is bounded by Bornou, to which power
it is subject. Edrisi calls it an “empire,” which shews its former
extent; formerly it was subject to Ghana. It was then a very rich
country, and carried on a great traffic with the neighbouring and
distant countries in gold dust, found in the country itself, and also
brought from mountainous districts to the southward. This district is
much flooded in August, when the inundation is highest. According to
Edrisi, it is “most famous for its excellency and abundance of gold;”
and, according to Ibn-al-Vardi, it is “the country of gold and
aromatics.” The gold, they inform us, is collected after the flood
retires; then the inhabitants “slightly dig the earth, and not one of
them is disappointed in his labour.”
These Arabian authors call this district an island, and say it was 300
(Arabic) miles long, and 150 miles broad, surrounded by the Nile all the
year, says Edrisi—but only on three sides, says Ibn-al-Vardi. The former
calls it an “island,” the latter an “isle or peninsula.” It has been
already noticed that these writers use the words isle, or peninsula, or
lands lying about and between the junction of rivers, as synonymous
terms. Two examples may suffice. Ibn Selym, the old Arabian traveller
already quoted, says, regarding the Egyptian Nile, that “an _island_ is
enclosed between the Bahr-el-Abiad and Bahr-el-Azreek, the upper end of
which is unknown, as is likewise the extremity of these rivers;” and
again, concerning the branches of the Bahr-el-Azreek, “they have fewer
side-channels and _islands_” than the other rivers. (_Burk._ p. 499.)
This affords us a complete elucidation of what the Arabian geographers
meant by the Island of Vancara. With this explanation also we unriddle
much of the Arabian geography. Edrisi says the frontier of Vancara lay
south-west of Ghanah about 8 days’ journey. Ibn-al-Vardi says this
country was situate “_on the shore of the great Bahr_,” (river or lake,)
which would seem to point out the lake into which the Gir, or Tshadi,
enters. Vancara therefore seems to comprehend the country in the middle
course of the Gir to the lake, and may also be intended to include the
country betwixt the Gulbe and the Gir, the Gir and the Niger, and might
extend to another large river about to be mentioned. The land betwixt
them is, in the oriental style, denominated an island.
East of Bito, and south of Guangara, is the large district of Temian,
inhabited, according to Leo and others, by a wild savage people, who are
represented as cannibals. I notice this here for two reasons; first,
because it is said that this country is bounded _south_ by the Niger,
which shews how much both it and the Gir decline south even according to
ancient authorities. It is uncertain which river is meant; but as Bito
is represented as being east of Guber, and Temian east of Bito, the
river which bounds Temian on the south is more probably the Bahr Kulla
than the Niger. Second, I notice this kingdom because various other
authorities mention a nation of cannibals in this part of Africa, and
also that they are near the Quolla or Niger. Mr. Bowditch, (page 202,)
was informed that their country was called Canna, Dall and Yum-Yum, and
subject to Quollaliffa, or Quollaraba, a powerful kingdom on the Niger,
below Noofee or Nyffe. Hornemann was informed they were called Yem-Yems,
and that their country lay to the south of Cano. Yam-yam was also heard
of by Burkhardt, as a Pagan country very far distant from Dar Saley.
Browne also was told of this Pagan country very _remote_ from Darfur,
and called by the Arabs Gnum-Gnum, whose inhabitants eat their prisoners
taken in war. (_Browne_, p. 310.) This is no doubt the country called
Temian by Leo and others, and which is said to be bounded _south_ by the
Niger.