Timbuctoo. That given by Sidi Hamed, an intelligent Arab, is the
clearest hitherto received. The whole narrative is extremely plain and
simple. There is nothing in it to destroy the credibility of the author.
Other authorities confirm his accounts. In the middle course of the
river, he is taken as our chief guide. He travelled with a caravan
consisting of 3000 men, 3000 asses, and 200 camels, laden with heavy
goods. Ten geographic miles is the utmost which can be allowed for the
horizontal distance made good each day, during their progress. In such a
country, even this is perhaps too much; but this calculation accords
very nearly with other authorities regarding particular points. This
scale is, therefore, followed in calculating all distances on every
route near the Niger, or to the southward of it. To the northward, as
the country is less rugged, 13 miles, on an average, may be allowed as a
day’s journey. In the countries that are cultivated, this scale will be
found sufficiently accurate. In the open desert, the length of a day’s
journey is much greater, and may extend 20 miles.
We have no accurate accounts of the magnitude of the Niger near
Timbuctoo. Ritchie was informed that it was so broad that a gun could
not take effect across it. The stream is, in all probability, a good
deal contracted in these parts. From Kabra, the river called here Issa,
and also Zolibib, flows in an easterly course for 60 miles. A very high
mountain to the east here bends the course of the stream more to the
S.E. In this direction, it flows in an open majestic stream, through a
hilly and woody country, for 150 miles. About the middle of the latter
bearing, the course of the stream declines to the S.W. like the arch of
a bow. At this distance from Timbuctoo, two “very large towns,” both
walled, were seen on its southern bank. Many canoes plied on its bosom.
On the N.E. side rose mountains. For 30 miles farther, the river pursued
a winding course S.E. About this place is the part where travellers from
Ashantee and Dagwumba cross the Niger in their route to Houssa.
According to Bowditch, p. 206. the ferry must be about 24 days’ journey
below Timbuctoo, and the stream here about two miles broad. At this
place the inhabitants begin to be friendly to the king of Wassanah, and
enemies to the sovereign of Timbuctoo. In this part of its course the
Niger comes to a very high ridge of mountains, thickly covered with
trees, and so abrupt and steep, that there is no path between the stream
and the hill. “_It ran against the steep side of the mountain_,” said
Sidi Hamed. From the summit of this ridge, “_a large chain of high
mountains was seen to the westward_.” In passing through the ridge
mentioned, the course of the Niger forms an arch, or curve, declining
S.W. Six days are necessary to cross this chain, which there is no
avoiding. Having crossed the ridge, the traveller in his S.E. progress,
comes to the river again, at a place where it is narrow and full of
rocks, “_which dashed the water most dreadfully_.” This is no doubt the
place below Kaffo, mentioned by Amadou Fatouma, (Park’s guide,) where
rocks in the river had formed it into three channels, through one of
which, smoother than the others, their canoe passed safely. Allowing 6
miles for each day’s journey, this ridge would be 36 miles in breadth.
From this ridge, the stream continues to flow in a S.E. direction for
120 miles. Its windings in this part are numerous, which indicates a
more level country. To the westward, “_high mountains are very plainly
discernible_.” From the eastward, in this part of its course, flow many
small streams, which empty themselves into the Niger. This would
indicate elevated land at no great distance in that quarter. The stream
“looked deep,” but “was not very wide.” At this distance, 395 miles
below Timbuctoo, is a ferry, and in all probability it is the celebrated
ferry called Yaoora, so well known, and so much frequented by all
travellers from the countries S.W. to the countries N.E. of the Niger.
Considering the distance and direction that Sidi Hamed had travelled,
and considering the bearing and distance from Yahndi to this place, as
given to Mr. Bowditch by various authorities, namely, 42 journeys N.E.
the point will be found to accord with sufficient accuracy. Here the
stream is said to be about _three miles broad_. (_Bowditch_, p. 202.)
Near Yaoora, D’Anville and De Lisle, lay down a river as joining the
Niger on its southern side. For this they, no doubt, had good authority.
The features of the country also render this extremely probable. On this
river, and not on the Niger, they erroneously lay down Cabi, Yaoora, and
Boussa, the first nearest the Niger, and the last at the greatest
distance from it, but at the distances from each other as given by later
accounts. At this point there seems a want in Sidi Hamed’s narrative.
When he says he came to a ferry at this point, where he rested seven
days, it is not said whether the ferry was across the Niger, or across a
river which there joined the Niger on its eastern side. Perhaps Riley
never thought of asking him the question. It is to be regretted that he
did not, as it is very probable that a great river from the eastward
does join the Niger about this place. The reasons for thinking that this
is the case, will be considered more at large hereafter. Sidi Hamed says
he saw many canoes crossing the river, and though there no doubt was a
ferry across the Niger at this place, still the ferry he mentioned,
might have been one across another river which he had to cross in his
further progress S.E.
Before proceeding farther down the river, a few observations become
necessary at this part of the subject. Yaoora, we learn, is in the
country of Houssa, and the first state of that country on the Niger. To
the country of Houssa, Amadou Fatouma was engaged to conduct Park. Below
Kaffo, says he, was Carmassie, below Carmassie, was Gormou, and below
the latter, was Houssa. At Yaoora they reached that country, and at
Yaoora, accordingly, this guide left the unfortunate traveller. It is
very remarkable that Leo Africanus, and other Arabian authors, make no
mention of Houssa, either as a city or a great country. Yet there must
be a city of that name. All the negroes from the interior make mention
of it, and speak of it as of great magnitude. They also talk familiarly
about snow in their country, which shews the mountainous nature of it,
and also the great height of these mountains. Bowditch was told by
numerous authorities that the city of Houssa was situate 17 days’
journey (say 220 miles) N.N.E. from the Niger, at the point where we
have already noticed the travellers from Ashantee, Inta, &c. cross the
river in their route to it. Hornemann was indeed informed that Houssa
was the name of an extensive portion of interior Africa, eastward of the
Niger, and comprehending the kingdoms or provinces of Kashna, Daura,
Cano, Nora, Nyffe, Cabi, Zamfra, and Guber. Of these, Cabi and Nyffe
alone touched upon the Niger. These states bounded Kashna on the S.W.
and South, according to Hornemann. Cabi is stated by various authors as
being the port of Houssa on the Niger. L’Hage Mahommed says that Butoo
on the Niger, is the port of both Kashna and Houssa. By the port of
Houssa, they may mean the first city of that country which is reached in
the voyage on the river upwards from the Sea. The distance of Butoo from
Kabra is about 46 days’ journey, which would bring it below or beyond
Yaoora. Eastward of Butoo, L’Hage Mahommed says that the navigation of
the river is interrupted by falls and cataracts. Butoo, there is some
reason to suppose, may be the Bito of Leo Africanus, which, according to
the authority of _Joannes Blaev_ (taken perhaps from Leo) p. 107, is
bounded east by Guber, which latter place Bowditch informs us, is 10
days’ journey N.E. from Yaoora. Should Bito and Butoo be the same place,
then it would appear to be on the Gir; and therefore may, on that side,
be accounted as the port both of Kashna and Houssa. On the other hand,
the rocks said to be in the river east of this place, corresponds in
some measure with the account of rocks or rapids at Boussa. By the
authority of Bowditch, we learn that Nyffe is one day’s journey below
Yaoora, while another account, which appears more distinct, says that it
is below Boussa and Wauwa. This shews the great extent of the country of
Houssa; and as the name is often used to designate the country, not the
city, so the accounts of travellers are confused, or rendered confused,
by not adverting to this circumstance.
Below Yaoora, 4 days’ journey, or about 40 miles, is situated Boussa,
where Park unfortunately perished, _four months_ after he left
Sansanding, and when he was so near accomplishing the object of his
important journey. From the time he took to descend the river to this
place, it is evident he must have stopped a considerable time at
different places in his way, and the probability is, that he found the
country interesting. One account says his death was occasioned by an
hostile attack on the part of the natives, from a high rock which
overhangs the river where the stream was very confined and rapid; and
another, that the natives pressed after him to warn him of his danger,
but which he mistook for a meditated attack, and, in endeavouring to
escape, rushed into the cataracts or rapids where he perished. The
former account is, however, deemed the most correct, as the canoe and a
negro remaining in it being saved, shewed that the current was not
irresistible and overwhelming. Park and one of his companions jumped
into the river to escape by swimming, but, unfortunately, they did not
succeed. One of the bodies floated down the river, and was taken out of
the stream at Gangi, an island in it, and buried there by direction of
the king of Wauwa, a kingdom situated below Boussa. The Cape, or
headland against which the canoe struck, would indicate the termination
of a ridge or chain of mountains at this place. Amadou Fatouma’s
description of this rock and passage like a door, was not mentioned by
those eye-witnesses which related to Mr. Bowditch this fatal
catastrophe.
In this manner perished our unfortunate country-man, after all his
honourable toils and labours, and when he was so near being crowned with
complete success. The account which his guide gives of the events which
led to his destruction are by no means satisfactory. Treachery
occasioned the fatal event; and there is too much reason to believe that
this guide was the traitor and betrayer of his former master. He, I
suspect, it was that kept back the presents which Park had sent to the
chief of Yaoora, and who communicated, at the same time, a message that
Park never intended to return; a message, the very reverse of what Park
was sure to have sent. These things irritated the chief; and in the
deception under which he laboured, he took those rash measures which
deprived society of an excellent man, and his country of an useful
subject. The falsehoods of Amadou Fatouma, put forth to screen himself,
we are, in one instance, enabled completely to expose. Passing Kabra, he
says, they were followed by several canoes filled with men with hostile
intentions. On these Mr. Park and his party fired, and killed a great
many of them. This account was so contrary to Park’s disposition, and so
improbable in itself, that it bore the strongest marks of falsehood. In
a letter received at Mogadore, in the month of March 1806, by Seedi
L’Abbes Buhellal Fasee, from his liberated slave at Timbuctoo, the
writer says, “a boat arrived a few days since from the west at Kabra,
having two or three Christians in it. One of them was (_rajeel Kabeer_)
a tall man, who stood erect in the boat which displayed (_shinjuk bied_)
a white flag. The inhabitants of Kabra did not, however, understand the
signal to be emblematic of peace, and _no one went to the boat_,
although it remained at anchor the whole day, till night. In the morning
it was gone.” (_Jackson’s Shabeeny_, p. 319.) Here there is no account
of hostile attacks or slaughter of the natives, all of which, had they
been true, the writer must have known, and would most certainly have
related. Mr. Jackson translated this letter himself, therefore there can
be no imposition. Mr. Park left Sansanding on the 17th November, 1805,
and the letter quoted must have been written early in December that
year. The falsehoods advanced by Amadou were evidently contrived to
justify the attack made by the people of Boussa upon Park, while his
great anxiety to prevent Isaaco from proceeding to Yaoora was no doubt
occasioned by his fears, lest, by going there, the latter should come to
the knowledge of his treachery.
From the plain and simple narrative of Sidi Hamed, it is quite clear
that the country below Timbuctoo, on the south and south-west side of
the Niger, is extremely mountainous. On that side they seem to have
attracted his particular attention. The very high “_chain_” which he saw
to the westward, from the summit of that ridge which he passed over, and
near which place the Niger bursts through the chain, is a remarkable
feature, and leaves us scarcely any room to doubt that it is the
continuation of the Kong range, or a main branch thereof, extending in a
northerly direction towards the high lands, north and west of Kashna,
and those north of Bornou, upon the confines of the northern deserts,
and which must be the same as the Usurgala and Girgiris mountains of
Ptolemy. The ridge here mentioned by Sidi Hamed is within a short
distance of the high land of Zegzeg, to which it is no doubt joined. A
branch of the Kong range, more to the southward, may extend eastward,
and cross the course of the Niger about Boussa, or even lower down,
until it is merged in the chains of hills to the eastward. The
mountainous nature of the country we have been considering is mentioned
by various authorities, particularly by Ledyard and Lucas, who were
informed, that, south of the Niger, the mountains were of a most
stupendous height all the way to Ashantee and the Gold Coast. It is
probable that the very high mountains last mentioned by Sidi Hamed are
the dry barren range, 40 miles distant from the Niger, and in the route
from Gago to Guber, mentioned by Leo, and the Desert placed by Bowditch
in these parts. In that journey this chain must be crossed, and its
great height may render it barren and destitute of water. On the north-
east side of the Niger, with the exception of the chain he crossed, it
would appear from the narrative of Sidi Hamed, that the country, near
the river, was less mountainous. This agrees with other authorities, and
will be considered more particularly hereafter.
But, to return to the river:—Continuing its course south-eastward, for
150 miles below the place mentioned, or Yaoora, the Niger reaches
Wassanah, a city twice as large as Timbuctoo, and situated on its
eastern bank. Here the river turns nearly south, and is so broad that it
is scarcely possible to discern a man on the opposite bank. From 300 to
400 canoes, each capable of containing from ten to twenty persons, plied
constantly on the river. Crocodiles and alligators were numerous in the
stream. The land on its banks was well cultivated, low, flooded during
the inundation, and, consequently, produced excellent rice in abundance.
On the western side were many towns and small settlements. Oxen, cows,
asses, and elephants, were numerous, but there were no camels, mules,
sheep, or goats. The King’s guards were armed with musquets; the
sovereign and principal inhabitants wore shirts and trowsers of European
manufacture. The inhabitants were all Pagans, a circumstance which Sidi
Hamed pathetically laments, and which is perhaps the chief cause why
this celebrated city has not been mentioned by other Arabs; it being
well known that in their trading journeys they generally take those
routes where they meet inhabitants professing their own faith. Sidi
Hamed was 51 days constant travelling, exclusive of the 6 days taken to
cross the chain of mountains, in his journey from Timbuctoo to Wassanah.
This would place Wassanah in 10° 40′ north latitude, and 9° 40′ east
longitude. Ten miles per day, however, is certainly more than such a
caravan could make good. That was the utmost which Bowditch and a small
travelling party could make good in their journey from Cape Coast to
Coomassie. We cannot err far, however, in placing Wassannah in 11° north
latitude, and 9° 30′ east longitude.
Though the accounts given of the progress of this river below Wassanah
are less positive, still these are plain and satisfactory as to the
great point at issue. From this city, according to Sidi Hamed, the
Niger, called here by the natives Zadi, (which seems a very general name
for a large river in Southern Africa,) flows first south and then west,
till it reaches the _great water_, where were found “_pale people, who
come thither in great boats_, and brought muskets, powder, tobacco, blue
cloth, and knives, which they exchanged for slaves, ivory,” &c. These
pale people had in their great boats “_guns as big as men’s bodies_, and
with which they could kill all the people in a hundred negro boats.”
With these people the inhabitants of Wassanah traded. Many people had
been down at “the great water” with slaves and teeth, and come back
again. The brother of the King of Wassanah told Sidi Hamed that he was
soon to set out on such a voyage with 60 boats and 500 negro slaves, and
wished the latter to accompany him. It would, he said, take three moons
to reach the “great water,” and to return by land he would be absent
twenty moons—a striking proof of the slowness of, and difficulties
attending African communications.
The description here given of the European trade, and European vessels
(for it could be no others,) engaged in it, and all the articles of that
trade, are extremely accurate. Sidi Hamed, a native of the northern
parts of the Great Desert, wholly unacquainted with such a traffic,
never could invent such a story as this, nor had his informants any
reason to deceive him with fictitious accounts; therefore, the
authenticity of his narrative is clearly established, and the course of
the Niger, and certainty of its being navigable, satisfactorily
ascertained. That it is a different river from the Congo, is established
by this fact, for the latter river cannot be navigated by any vessel in
its lower course, by reason of rocks, rapids, and cataracts. Sidi Hamed
arrived at Wassanah early in May, and stopped there two moons.
Consequently, it must have been after the inundation, and when the
heaviest rains were over, that the son of the King intended to set out
on his journey. The current would then be less rapid. The progress of
such a fleet, creeping along the banks of the river, and stopping at
almost every place in its way for the purposes of trade, or to procure
provisions, would necessarily be extremely slow. The voyage also only
continues during the day. As the level country was approached, the
windings of the river would be more frequent and extensive, and,
consequently, greatly protract the voyage. More than a third of the time
would be occupied in stoppages; from 20 to 22 miles per day is the
utmost extent passed over during such voyages; and the horizontal
distance made good on general bearings does not perhaps exceed 14 miles.
Lagos, the great slave trading station, was evidently the place where
these traders reached the “great water.” On the general bearings, the
distance from Wassanah to Lagos cannot be less than 700 miles. Park took
four months in one canoe to travel an equal distance from Sansanding to
Boussa. The time therefore mentioned to Sidi Hamed as necessary to
descend from Wassanah to the _great water_ was no more than was
absolutely necessary, considering the slowness of African travelling.
Time, to an African, however, is an object of no consideration.
In his journey from Yaoora to Wassanah, Sidi Hamed makes no mention of
any mountains or rocks in the river, though “_he travelled most of the
time in sight of it_.” From this account, it would appear, that the
course of the stream was here more direct, and the country more open.
Yet it is possible that there may have been obstructions which he had
not seen, or neglected to mention, from no questions being put to him on
that head. The canoes which Sidi Hamed describes, as plying on the Niger
at Wassanah, and descending the river to the sea, are exactly the same
as Bowditch and other authorities were informed did go down from the
interior, and which Robertson and others saw come down from the interior
to these parts of the sea coasts. These canoes are all large, and have
apartments for the trader and his wives separate from the slaves and
servants. Wassanah, from the previous accounts, will stand on the Niger
about 100 miles below the place where Park perished, and evidently out
of the track of the great trading routes chiefly frequented by the
Arabs.
CHAP. III.
_Eastern rivers — Misselad or Gir, source and course — Dar Saley — Wara
— Other rivers — Gir turns west — Lake Fittre — Magnitude of River;
Junction with the Shary — Bahr-el-Feydh — Bahr Djad — Course of Gir west
— Gambarou — Birney — Bornou — River Tzad — Face of the country — Cano
or Ghana — Kashna — Gulbe, supposed course of ditto — Position of Kashna
— Junction of eastern and western rivers — Vancara or Owencara; what it
is — Bito — Temian — Cannibals — Junction of Gir and Bahr Kulla, source
and course of ditto — Mount Thala — Miri — Junchor and Bahr Salamat
Rivers — Lake Haimat — Island at the Junction of Gir and Niger — Lybia
Palus — Lake of Jackson, or Sea of Sudan; what that is — Robertson —
River Loro — Fillanee — Water communication between the sea coast and
north-east parts of Africa — Course of the Niger to the sea in the
Bights of Benin and Biafra — Boundary of Benin — Bahr Kulha; what it
is._
Before examining more particularly the accounts of the country from
Wassanah to the sea, and the outlets of the Niger from other
authorities, it is necessary to turn our attention to the immense supply
of waters which it receives from the eastern and the north-eastern parts
of Africa. With our present information, it is not easy to fix with
accuracy the points where these waters form a junction with the Niger.
Nevertheless, it is hoped that this may be done with sufficient
accuracy, to shew the great geographical outlines of the rivers of
northern Africa, which are the object of the present research. Let us
take the chief or parent stream first.
On the north side of the chain, which gives birth to the Bahr-el-Abiad,
or chief branch of the Egyptian Nile, springs the Misselad of Browne,
the Abou Teymam, or Om Teymam of Burkhardt, and the Gir of Ptolemy. It
is satisfactory to learn, from the authority of Burkhardt, the discovery
of this long lost name. It is called by the natives of these parts Djyr,
which, in the Egyptian pronunciation, sounds Gir. Mr. Beaufoy was
informed, that the river of Bornou rose “from the same source,” or, in
other words, in the vicinity of the Egyptian Nile. Leo also heard the
same thing reported. Edrisi states the matter distinctly; and Ptolemy
evidently brings it from the southernmost point of his Garamantican
rampart, in 10° north latitude. The Gir flows first in a north-north-
west direction towards the kingdom of Dar Saley or Borgo. Inclining more
to the north-west, it passes the parallel of Wara, the capital of Dar
Saley, three days’ journey to the west of that city; and, according to
the accounts obtained by Dr. Seibzen, it is in this part of its course
as large as the Nile in Egypt, or near half a mile broad. From the
eastward, according to Burkhardt, it must have previously received the
Oul Rashid, Abou Redjeyle, and Om Ettyman, besides other streams, which
flow from the kingdom of Darfur. The country between Wara and Darfur is
mountainous and rocky. Deep lakes are formed by the rains which remain
throughout the year, and afford retreats for the crocodiles and
Hippopotami. The natives of Dar Saley use canoes in passing their
rivers, a proof of the magnitude of the same. The country about the
sources of the Misselad, is represented as extremely mountainous, and
giving birth to numerous streams. Westward of Wara is several very high
mountains.