and near which it is probably joined by a very large river called Bahr
Kulla. The proper name of it however is perhaps different. This must be
a very large river. It may take its name from the country from whence it
flows, and in which it takes its rise, namely, Dar Kulla. All accounts
agree in placing this country nearly south-west of Darfur. The branches
which form the river in question rise on the west side of the mountains
of El Komri, which give birth to the Bahr-el-Abiad, or Egyptian Nile.
The country hereabouts is extremely mountainous and woody; large rivers
must consequently soon be formed. Browne informs us that in this part of
Africa the rivers were numerous and large, and that they were crossed in
ferry-boats hollowed out of a single tree, and managed partly by poles
and partly by double oars. Burkhardt also informs us, from good
authority, that Dar Kulla, and the countries around, “were throughout
mountainous, and that several very large rivers flowed through them,
_which were never dry_,” a strong Arabic expression, denoting rivers of
the first magnitude. The rivers, according to Browne and others, take
courses first north-westerly; in this point corroborating the earliest
authors, and corresponding very accurately with the features of the
country as delineated by Ptolemy. The sources are east of his Thala
mountain, north of his Aranga mountain, and west of that chain which
intervenes between these springs and the Misselad. The Bahr Kulla is
perhaps the branch which Ptolemy mentions joins the Niger from the east
above the Lybian Lake.
Bounding the range of Mount Thala, in a westerly course, the Bahr Kulla
declines southerly till its junction with the Gir, where the united
stream soon after joins the Niger, if the two streams do not join it at
the same place. Many Moors and Arabs who travel in the interior of
Africa, state, that the Niger joins the Bahr Kulla, and flows to form
the Bahr-el-Abiad. Bowditch, Park, and Hornemann, were each told this;
and an Arab pilgrim, in the suite of the Morocco Princes, told Captain
Dundas of the Tagus frigate, that the Niger communicated with the Nile
of Egypt, through the sea of Sudan. All these accounts only tend to
prove the course of a river in the direction already mentioned, and its
subsequent junction with the Niger. Better authority enables us to shew
the junction of the Bahr Kulla and Bahr-el-Abiad to be a
misapprehension, arising from the manner in which the Arabs frequently
express themselves on these matters. Of the junction of the river which
comes from Dar Kulla with the Niger, there is no doubt; but it is
probable that the words Bahr Kulla, or Kûlha, have a very different
signification than this particular river.
Betwixt the river of Kulla and the Misselad there is a great extent of
country where rivers rise, and flow to join the Gir in its middle
course. Of these, however, we are imperfectly informed. The chief seems
to be that called Bahr Salamat, which runs north-west, and passes
through Lake Haimat. Numerous other streams, however, spring in those
parts, and pursue their course in a westerly direction, but which no
traveller has yet completely explored. The chief of these streams are
the Miri, the Junchor, and the Terruge, the latter between the Miri and
the Salamat. The two first are certainly large streams; in their upper
parts their courses are north-westerly, and there is little doubt but,
as Major Rennel supposes, they join the great river in Vancara. Hence it
is easy to see that this country must be greatly flooded during the
height of the floods in August. It is curious that, carrying their lower
courses on the bearings mentioned, that the positions and bearings, and
distances of Reghebil and Ghanara, (both situated on fresh water streams
or seas,) as given by Edrisi from Ghana, and from each other, should
correspond so very exactly.
Browne mentions a singular circumstance, that merchants from Darfur, who
go to Dar Kulla across the Misselad to trade, do not return till the end
of two years, and that they occupy from 80 to 90 days in going there,
and as much on returning. This would indicate that the country was at a
much greater distance than in the immediate vicinity of the Mountains of
the Moon. In fact, at ten miles per day, it would reach almost to the
flat country near Benin. There may, however, be some error even in the
reckoning, or some particular obstructions to travelling, which indeed
must necessarily be very slow through such a woody, hilly, and well
watered country as intervenes. He mentions also that the inhabitants are
partly copper-coloured, which would indicate a mixture of Arabs; and
that this country was towards the west and centre of Africa. On the
other hand, the kingdom being invaded by the arms of Dar Saley, would
shew that the distance from the latter is not very great.
The junction of the Gir with the Niger, I suppose, takes place in about
10° east longitude, and 9° north latitude. Jackson, in his favourite
theory, that a water communication exists between the Nile of Sudan and
the Nile of Egypt by means of the Bahr Kulla and the Bahr-el-Abiad,
states the belief to be, that such a union of waters takes place in Bahr
Kulla, Wangara, or the Sea of Sudan. That this union, by the junction of
the streams about these parts of Africa, does take place, there is
little room to doubt. But Mr. Jackson seems at length to have renounced
the idea that the Bahr-el-Abiad is a continuation of the Niger.
(_Jackson’s Shabeeny_, p. 443.) Almost all accounts, ancient and modern,
speak of a large lake in the central parts of Africa, but its exact
position it is very difficult to fix; indeed, it would seem that there
are more than one lake in these southern parts of Africa. Some
authorities, however, by identifying the ocean with the lake, or lakes
with the ocean, may thus create the apparent uncertainty. In the map by
Ortellius, in 1570, this lake is called the Lake of Guber, which would
lead us to look for it about the place where that kingdom is placed.
There can be no doubt that the lake in question is the Lybian Lake laid
down by Ptolemy in 16° 30′ north latitude, and 35° east longitude, or,
when corrected, from 11° to 12° east of Greenwich. This is east of the
course of the Niger at Yaoora, above 3° 30′, which would bring the
position of this lake directly in the course of the Gir to the
southward. Ptolemy has placed it in 16° 30′ north latitude; but we have
seen that he was 3° wrong in the position of the Nigrites Palus, and a
similar allowance may fairly be made for the position of his Lybia
Palus. This would place it in about 13° north latitude. It is remarkable
that Hadji Hamet informed Mr. Ritchie that “at Nyffe there was a _large
sea, not salt but sweet_, and that the river Tshadi (river of Bornou or
Gir,) came out of that sea and flowed to the Egyptian Nile. He could not
tell whether the river of Timbuctoo flowed into that sea or not.”
(_Quart. Rev._ May, 1820.) The misapprehension concerning the true
course of the Tshadi is here so obvious, that it scarcely requires
pointing out; the fact, however, of the Gir flowing into this lake, and
the coincidence with the Lybia Palus of Ptolemy, is very remarkable and
important. The lake being formed by the Gir, and not by the Niger,
sufficiently accounts for no notice being taken of it by Sidi Hamed in
his journey to Wassanah.
Jackson states that this lake, which he takes for the Sea of Sudan, is
450 miles eastward of Timbuctoo, and that “the Neel-el-Abeed (Niger)
_passes through it_.” (_Jack. Shab._ p. 486.) This, supposing that city
to be in 3° east longitude, would bring the position of the lake to be
in 10° 30′ east longitude, 1° or more to the west of the point
mentioned. It must however be observed, that, in tracing the course of
the Niger below Timbuctoo, I have followed the bearings given by Sidi
Hamed. It is possible that it may be carried 1° too far east, and the
course of the Gir not carried sufficiently to the westward. Perfect
accuracy in these things at present is impossible, nor does the want
materially alter the grand features it is my chief object to delineate.
Jackson says that “a lake is formed by the waters of the Neel-el-Abeed,
of which the opposite shore is not visible. It is navigated by large
vessels, which sometimes _come to Timbuctoo, manned by a particular kind
of people_. On its eastern bank begins the territory of white people,
denominated by the Arabs N’sareth,” (Christians.) From this description
it is quite evident that the “lake” here mentioned is a different lake
to that represented as being situated 450 miles east of Timbuctoo. It is
clearly the sea on the Gold coast, and Bights of Benin and Biafra—“a
lake whose opposite shore is not visible,” and on the eastern or north-
eastern bank of which “is the territory of Christians.” The fact of
large vessels coming up from this lake to Timbuctoo, “_manned by a
particular kind of people_,” is an additional proof that the navigation
of the Niger is unobstructed from the ocean to Timbuctoo.
The Sea of Sudan, however, or this interior lake, if it really bears
that name, is certainly a different expanse of water from the _Bahar
Sefeena_ of Park, which Jackson labours to prove is the same. His Bahar
Sudan, he asserts, is east of Timbuctoo 450 miles. From Sego to Bœdoo,
according to Park, is 30 days journey, in a southerly direction. “One
month’s travel,” says he, “_south_ of Bœdoo, through the kingdom of
Gotto, (Moosee) will bring the traveller to the country of the
Christians, who have their houses on the banks of the Ba-Se-Feena. This
water is incomparably larger than the Lake Dibbie, and the water
sometimes ran one way and sometimes another.” (_Park_, vol. ii. p. 229,
8vo. ed.) The words Ba-se-Feena are very properly shewn, by Jackson, to
be a corruption of the Arabic words Bahar Sefeena, signifying literally
“_the sea of ships_,” or the sea where ships are seen. The direction,
the distance, and every other particular mentioned, however, clearly
point out the European settlements on the Gold coast. The water running
sometimes one way and sometimes another, obviously relates to the flux
and reflux of the sea, a phenomenon which could not fail to arrest the
attention of a negro from the interior. The water here mentioned never
can be taken as a lake in the interior to the _eastward_ of Timbuctoo;
and it is strange that a person of Mr. Jackson’s discrimination in
African affairs should attempt to confound two things so clearly
distinct. The Bahar Sefeena and Bahar Sudan may be the same; but, if
they are so, it is certainly the Gulph of Guinea which is represented
under the appellation.
But to return to the junction of the Niger with the rivers from the
eastward. From Robertson’s Notes in Africa, lately published, we learn,
by information which he received on the coast at Greghwee, from people
belonging to the interior, that, _forty_ days’ journey from Greghwee,
and in a north-east direction, lay the country of Fillanee, on the river
Kakoa, which flowed into a lake called Issebee, near the sea. Still
farther, in the same direction, and betwixt the Fillanee and another
people called Boolamas, lay the great river Loro, which, descending from
the north-west, was at this point joined by _several other great
rivers_, coming from the north-east. At this position there is a large
island called Wadamsera, the capital of which is called Oendera, or
Wandera. The inhabitants were great traders, and carried on a brisk
trade with the opposite banks of the river: what is more remarkable,
they were partly Negroes and partly Arabs, but all Mahommedans. It is
impossible not to recognize in this account the junction of the Gir and
the Niger. The Fillanee country lay 400 miles north-east of Greghwee;
between it and the Boolamas lay the river Loro. This term Boolamas does
not apply to any particular nation, but it is evidently of the same
signification as Boolas, which, according to Bowditch, is a term of
reproach which the inhabitants of the sea-coasts, who account themselves
more civilized, apply to the slaves brought from these interior parts,
as well as to the population thereof in general. One hundred miles
farther to the north-east of Fillanee would bring us to the river in
question, beyond which are these Boolamas, or savage people, which will
correspond with that country already mentioned where it is said they
devour their prisoners. The direction and distance from Greghwee, as
given to Robertson, would thus agree very accurately with the point
where the junction is supposed to take place, and where, it is extremely
probable, that an island may be formed. The fact also mentioned, that
the population of this island are all Mahommedans, a circumstance
unknown in the middle course of the Niger, proves the existence of an
easy communication between this place and the north-east parts of
Africa, which could only be by water. Park’s guide distinctly informed
him, that, on going down the Niger, as far as he knew it, they would
touch on the Moors no where else but at Timbuctoo. Shabeeny also
distinctly states that “no Arabs are found on the banks of the Nile.”
(_Jack. Shabeeny_.) Sidi Hamed shews this to be correct, when he laments
so pathetically, that the population of Wassanah were ignorant of the
true faith. The fact of a water communication with the distant N.E.
parts of Africa, is otherwise clearly established. Robertson met on the
coast, two intelligent Arabs, who came from a country which lay _five
moons_ journey distant, in a N.E. direction from Lagos. These men stated
that “they _came a great part of the way by water_, in canoes hired from
the chiefs of the country through which they passed.” From the
description which they gave of their country, where “all the gentlemen
could read and write, and where _camels_, horses, and cattle of all
descriptions were plenty,” (_Robertson_, p. 288, 289.) it is evident
their country must be Bornou. Other authorities, from accounts similarly
obtained, give us the like information.
Descending southward from its junction with the Gir and other rivers,
the Niger, pursuing his course first south, and then south-west,
approaches the low lands in the country of Benin. Here the stream
separates, as is the case with other large rivers, into several large
branches, which take their course to the sea in different directions.
Those again divide into numerous small branches, which intersect the
coast in every direction. The inhabitants of Bonny or Bannee river, who
traded into the interior by means of that river, state, that the Bonny
“_came out of a large river in the interior, which made all the rivers
in that country_.” (_Robertson_, p. 298.) This is positive testimony to
an important circumstance, which the natural features of the country
rendered probable. From other accounts which Robertson obtained, it
would appear that the Niger, before it approaches the sea, forms a lake
called Issebee, from whence the river issues in three streams, which
bend their course south-easterly to the sea, and a fourth which flows
westerly to Lagos. This lake may be 200 miles east from the latter
place, considering the time the travellers took to descend from it to
the sea in August when “_the water ran fast_.” Of its magnitude we are
wholly ignorant. It is well known that the same term in Arabic denotes
both a lake and a large river, and the Arabs use the same often without
discrimination. From a circumstance regarding this lake, namely, that,
during the night, the canoes near the shore were carried backwards
almost as far as these had advanced down the middle of the stream during
the day, (an occurrence which was believed to be the work of some evil
spirit,) it would appear that it is merely the reach of a great river.
Such a phenomenon Tuckey found at every reach in the Congo. The lake
Issebee, therefore, may only be the undivided trunk of the mighty Niger.
If the accounts is correct, this lake, or separation of the stream, will
be in about 7° 20′ north latitude, and 6° 40′ east longitude.
The country through which the Niger here flows is very level. The
mountains, however, are at no very great distance northward from Benin.
These mountains are represented by the natives as stretching eastward
from the Kong range, and forming a kind of amphitheatre to the
northward. Encircling Benin, they descend south-easterly, till they are
merged in the high land, stretching north from Cameroons. This is
particularly mentioned by Joannes Bleav[7], and also by Robertson. The
general features of the country render this very probable. A small
stream joins the Niger at Wauwa. Near Goodeberry, we are informed by
Bowditch, there runs a river called Leeäsa, but what course it takes we
are uncertain. It is possible it may be the Kakoa, on which is situated
the Fillanee, as mentioned by Robertson. There is, however, no certainty
on this point, and the Kakoa may be a branch of the Niger, or even the
Niger itself, though different circumstances lead me to suppose that it
is a distinct river, which joins the Niger in or near the territories of
Benin.
Before turning our attention to the coast, it is of consequence to
consider the explanation which Mr. Jackson gives of the Arabic words
Bahr Kulla. The term, he says, in proper Arabic, is _Bahar Kûlha_, which
term signifies the Ocean; and also, an alluvial country. If this
explanation is correct, and which there seems little reason to doubt, we
have the clearest account of the termination of the Niger. Numerous
authorities state, that, in its middle course, it turns to the
southward, and flows till it joins the Bahr Kulha, the sea, or the
alluvial country. This it certainly does do at the points we have
mentioned, and which we are about to consider. It may be necessary
further to observe, on what Mr. Bowditch was informed, namely, that,
close to the northward of Houssa, were two large lakes; “one called
Balahar Sudan, and the other Girrigee Marragassee.” (_Bowditch_, p.
198.) The first, as Mr. Jackson distinctly states, is clearly a negro
corruption of the words Bahar Sudan, and the other, he supposes, is a
negro name for the same sea. Bowditch, there is the greatest reason to
believe, has completely mistaken the information concerning the position
of this lake, or lakes, which must be to the southward of _the country
of Houssa_, and not to the northward of the city of that name. He has
been led into the error by taking the city for the country of Houssa,
and from not adverting to the misapprehension which both negroes and
Arabs are so apt to entertain on these subjects. The greatest care is
necessary in order to make them state bearings and positions of places
conformably to our mode of expressing these things. They very
frequently, in their figures of speech, reverse them. Thus, the shores
of the Atlantic Ocean which bound Africa, are called by them the western
shores of that sea. “The _western_ border of the ambient sea,” says
Abulfeda, “namely, that which washes Africa and Spain, is the Ocean,”
&c. We call it the eastern. Here they seem to look to the land, and we
to the sea. By applying this rule to Bowditch’s account of the lake
north of Houssa, we will see more satisfactorily that he has just
reversed its position. Situate to the south of the country of Houssa, it
may be either the Lybia Palus of Ptolemy, or else the gulf of Guinea,
which, after all, there is reason to believe, will turn out to be the
true sea of Sudan.
Before proceeding further, it may be observed, that the Niger, about
Yaoora and Boussa, is called Kood, Kaoda, and Coudha, a term of similar
import as Quolla. It is not easy to determine, whether the Arabs apply
the term Coudha to the Niger, or to the eastern river, or to both
streams indiscriminately. It is evident, from the manuscript which gives
the account of Park’s death, that the term is applied to the Niger,
because he was on the Niger. But to whichever of the rivers it is
applied, or, if applied to both, it is clear they communicate with each
other. Shereef Brahima, an intelligent Arab, informed Mr. Bowditch, that
the water of the Coudha goes to lake Caudee, or Fittre; but he enables
us to understand distinctly what he means by that expression, when he
says that lake Caudee is “_the mother of Coudha_,” or, in other words,
that the Coudha flows westward from the lake, instead of eastward into
it. From the same authority, we learn, that between Gamba and the
_extremity_ of Coudha at Yaoora, the traveller passes four rivers,
namely, Kadarkoo, Doodirba, Shawanka, and Wada rivers, at the distances
as marked on the map. Of their course and magnitude we have no
information; but it is probable that the former is to the south or
south-east, and that one of them, namely, the Wada, is the same as the
Leeäsa river. The distance from Yahndi to each corresponds very
accurately. By this information we are enabled to fill up another blank
in the geography of Africa, and to fix, with considerable accuracy, the
features of the country, and the course which the various rivers take in
those parts of that continent.
[Illustration: _Page 128._
The Coast _FROM_ CRADOO LAKE to the HIGHLAND OF CAMEROONS _from the_
African Pilot
W. H. Lizars Sculpt.]
CHAP IV.
_Bights of Benin and Biafra — Rio de Formosa — Delta of Benin —
Innumerable Rivers — Rio Forcados — Gatto Creek — Cape Formosa — Rivers
East — New Calabar and Bonny River; their great magnitude — Old Calabar
and Cross Rivers — Rio Elrei — Salt Ground — Great Trade in Salt — Face
of the Country in the Delta — Trade to these Places — Inundation of the
Rivers — Time of ditto — Shews they are different from either the Congo
or the Egyptian Nile — Currents in the Sea near the Coast — Number and
Magnitude of the Rivers in the Delta — Breadth — Depth — Trade — Natives
into the Interior — a Race of People almost White — Leucæ Ethiopians of
Ptolemy — General Observations on the N.E. and North parts of Central
Africa — Accounts of Travellers — Kong — What it means — Great Magnitude
of the Niger, and his Tributary Streams — Length of course — Compared to
Magnitude of Bahr-el-Abiad at Shilluk — Cannot be the same Stream — No
Connection with that River._
Let us now turn our attention to the rivers which enter the Ocean in the
Bights of Benin and Biafra. Of the larger branches the Rio de Formosa,
though not the largest, may be considered the parent stream from which
all the others are deflections. At its mouth it is three and a half
British miles broad, with two bars of mud, on which there is 13 feet
water. Besides numerous creeks which issue from it, a very large, deep,
and navigable branch flows into the lake Cradoo, which communicates with
the Lagos river near its junction with the Sea. The space betwixt them,
according to the French maps, drawn for the French Marine service, under
the late Emperor, is filled with low islands; and several rivers from
the northward fall into the lake, or sound mentioned, betwixt the Rio de
Formosa, and the Rio Lagos. The account which Bosman gives of the Rio de
Formosa, is the most particular and satisfactory which I have met with.
“Upwards,” say she, “it is sometimes broader, and sometimes narrower. It
sprouts _into innumerable branches_, some of which may very well deserve
the name of rivers.” About five miles from its mouth, it throws off two
branches within two miles of each other. Agatton, the chief place of
trade, is situated sixty Dutch miles (220 British,) up the river, and on
a Peninsula formed by it. “_So far, and yet farther, ships may
conveniently come, sailing by hundreds of branches of the river, besides
creeks, some of which are very wide_. Its branches extend into all the
circumjacent countries. The country all about is divided into islands,
by the multiplicity of its branches.” The Portuguese, who had
settlements inland, and were well acquainted with those parts, affirm
that “it was easy, with a canoe, to get from the Rio de Formosa into the
circumjacent rivers, viz. the Rio Lagos, Rio Volta, Elrei, New Calabar,
Bonny, and other rivers. The Rio de Formosa meanders through a fine
fertile country, and brings down innumerable floating islands of
considerable extent on its waves. On the north side, the river is joined
by the Gatto creek, which may be the termination of a river descending
from the north, perhaps the Kakoa heard of by Robertson. The Rio dos
Forcados, apparently a mighty stream, no doubt branches off from the Rio
de Formosa, after the streams running south-east have separated. South
of the Rio dos Forcados, is a lake of considerable magnitude, which
communicates with the sea, west of Cape Formosa, and also with the New
Calabar river. The number of rivers which enter the sea from the Rio de
Formosa to Cape Formosa, is six.