CHAPTER IV.

System pursued towards children—Results of Jesuit

training—Anecdotes of the Sacré Cœur—A _Contessina_ just out

of the convent—Difficulty of giving a liberal education to

young nobles—No profession open to them but the church—Their

ignorance and idleness.

Amongst those Italians whose minds have risen superior to the

disadvantages that surround them, the subject of education is often

anxiously discussed. One evening, at my uncle's, we were conversing

on this topic with the Conte Enrico A——, a highly intellectual and

cultivated young man. He was a native of Ancona, but so far in advance

of his townspeople, that he stood almost isolated amongst them. Even

as an Englishman, he would have ranked high for mental acquirements,

though all perhaps of too dreamy a cast. His was a sort of passive

genius, which exhaled itself in poetry and melancholy reflections

on the misery of his country, looking upon any individual exertion

as impracticable. This want of energy in striving to carry out the

superior workings of their intellect was, until lately, peculiar to

most Italians who united reflection and high principle with patriotism

and talent. For Central and Northern Italy, however, this remark no

longer holds good. The moving spirits of the revolutions in Tuscany,

the Duchies, and Romagna, have been precisely the most cultivated

and moderate amongst the upper and middle classes; but the course

recent events have taken in the Marche, confirms the opinion that the

political leaders there are still men of thought rather than of action.

On the evening in question, I remember he told us we were not

half thankful enough, nor proud enough, of the privilege of being

Englishwomen, nor sensible of the blessings which from our very cradles

that name conferred.

“As soon as English children can distinguish one letter from another,”

he said, “books are put into their hands which inculcate truth, honour,

courage; and thus is laid the basis of that education which has made

your nation what it is—the envy and wonder of Europe.”

“That reminds me of a plan we have often talked of,” said Lucy D——:

“it is that of translating some of our nice children's story-books, and

getting them circulated through these States.”

“Ah! you forget,” he replied, shaking his head, “that before teaching

the children, you must educate the mothers of Italy; or else your

efforts will be paralysed by the ignorance and folly that would be

arrayed against you.”

“Besides you forget,” said my uncle, looking up from his paper, “that

the mothers of Italy have very little to do with the education of their

children: your convents and seminaries relieve them of that task.”

“Too true,” said the count. “As our fathers and grandfathers did before

us, so also must we: and that is why, at seven or eight years old, our

boys are sent to Jesuit colleges; while our girls, at even an earlier

age, are placed in nunneries to learn from women perpetually secluded

in the cloister, the duties that are to fit them for wives and mothers

in the world.”

“Never even coming home for their holidays,” remarked my uncle.

“Strange that there should be people in existence who can consent

to this unnecessary separation from their children for ten or eleven

years. How the character may be worked upon, and all its fresh impulses

destroyed, by this long period of unbroken influence!”

“But do they, then, never see their children?” I inquired.

“Oh yes, they may go and visit them,” he replied; “but an interview

of but an hour or so occasionally, is a very poor substitute for more

unrestrained intercourse; besides, it often happens that the convent or

college is at a considerable distance, and it does not suit people to

be always travelling.”

“Talking of these visits,” said the count, “reminds me of one I lately

paid to Loretto, to see the eldest son of the Principe L——, a handsome,

animated, and promising little fellow of nine years old, who had been

placed at the Jesuits' College there about six months before. I could

scarcely recognize the child. Without ill-usage, without any compulsory

discipline, but simply by the steady workings of their wonderful

method of compression, the boy's spirit and originality appeared to

be as completely extinguished as if they had never existed. He had

become grave, thoughtful beyond his age, with a little demure, bland

look, that seemed a reflection of the countenances of his priestly

instructors. I horrified the ecclesiastic who was present during

the interview, by rather maliciously asking the child if he still

continued to take as much interest as ever in all scientific and

mechanical pursuits, and in reading of the recent discoveries. As the

sworn upholder of a government that opposes railways, and laments the

invention of printing, the priest was bound to express his surprise at

the suggestion, 'My child,' said he, mildly addressing his pupil, 'is

it possible you ever thought thus? You have other tastes now. Tell the

signor conte what you most wish to become.' The boy coloured, cast down

his eyes, and murmured, 'Un Latinista'—a Latin scholar. Anything like a

love of aught relating to progression was a crime.”

There was some bitterness, but no exaggeration, in what the young

Anconitan related. The question of the Jesuits is purely a political

one, they being supported by the party termed by the liberals

_Oscurantisti_ or _Codini_—the first name signifying literally

obscurers, and the last derived from the queue worn by the gentlemen

of the last century, and without which, to this day, upon the Italian

stage, the portrait of a prejudiced obstinate old noble is incomplete.

Families of these views esteem it, therefore, a point of conscience to

intrust the education of their children to this order.

The Jesuit colleges nearest Ancona are at Loretto, a distance of twenty

miles; and at Fano, about thirty miles off, in an opposite direction.

At the former place also, the French _Dames du Sacré Cœur_ have a

convent for young ladies, embracing much the same line of principles.

It cannot be denied that, as respects general accomplishments and

ladylike deportment, their pupils infinitely surpass those of all other

conventual establishments in the country; but the Jesuit leaven that

pervades the whole course of tuition, deters all parents, not devoted

to the tenets of Loyola, from placing their daughters under their care.

The House at Loretto was admirably conducted; simplicity, cleanliness,

refinement, order, were its striking features. The pupils appeared

to me perfectly happy. Most of them had entered at six or seven

years of age, and cherished an enthusiastic affection for the nuns,

or _Ladies_, as they are generally styled, who by their gentle and

dignified deportment, their patient study of character, and the

devotion of their whole faculties to the task, acquired over them

an unlimited ascendancy. A girl in the Sacré Cœur never learned to

reason;—what “_La Mère Supérieure_” once said, was to her an article

of faith,—infallible, unimpeachable. The opinions thus formed—and they

designedly embraced every relation of society—were seldom or never

shaken off.

In politics, as may be conceived, the Sacré Cœur is unmitigatedly

Austrian. In 1848, while all Italy was applauding the prowess or

lamenting the misfortunes of Charles Albert, the pupils at Loretto

knew of no hero but Radetsky; and celebrated his triumph over Italian

independence by a grand march for the pianoforte, composed expressly

for them by their music-master, _maestro di cappella_ to the Church of

the Santa Casa.

The acquaintance possessed by these ladies with all that is passing

in the outer world, down to the minutest details of inner life, is a

well-known attribute of the order. Imparted to their Jesuit confessors,

this knowledge has often become a powerful political engine. The means

by which it is acquired is through the confidence and affection of

their pupils. I once happened to be staying in the same house with a

young lady who had recently left the convent. The Contessina used to

write every day to the _Mère Supérieure_ long crossed letters, in a

delicate French hand. “You carry on an active correspondence,” some one

remarked. “Oh, yes!” was the unsuspecting reply; “the Mère is so good!

She tells us always to remember, when we leave her care, that whatever

is of interest to us interests her; and to tell her of our occupations,

our acquaintances; of those who come to the house, and what they speak

about.”

I had also an opportunity of observing the mastery the Sacred Heart

obtains over family ties and instincts. Another young girl of our

acquaintance—indeed, she was one of our most intimate friends—was on

the eve of entering the novitiate, when she heard that the cholera was

raging at Trieste. The alarm was great in Ancona, where a belief in

contagion prevailed; and it was generally anticipated that, through

the constant communication going on between the Austrian garrison and

that port, the epidemic would be speedily transmitted. The parents of

the future novice were somewhat advanced in years, delicate in health,

and apprehensive of the impending danger. She therefore wrote to the

Superior, proposing to adjourn her entrance into the order till after

the cholera had visited Ancona, in order to be at hand to nurse her

parents if attacked. “My child,” was the reply, “leave your parents

to higher care. This is clearly a temptation of the Evil One.” And

accordingly she went.

Notwithstanding the favour it enjoys with the Government, some members

of the _vieille roche_ are hostile to the Sacré Cœur; not, as it

may be supposed, on account of its political bias, but because its

teaching—which comprehends a thorough knowledge of French and music,

with some insight into the other usual elements of female education—is

unnecessarily erudite. A strong party still exists in favour of the

old-fashioned nunneries; of the system pursued in which the following

is no exaggerated report:—

One day a pretty, bashful-looking _contessina_, just emancipated

from her convent, came with her mother to pay a morning visit. While

the latter was engaged with poor Lucy, on whom doing the honours to

the elderly ladies always devolved, I endeavoured to overcome the

daughter's timidity, and draw her into conversation. Not knowing what

else to speak of, I began about her recent studies, and inquired if she

knew French.

“No, signora,”[3] with downcast eyes, “they did not teach that in the

convent.”

“Did you learn history or geography?”

“No, signora.”

“But you can embroider?”

“Si, signora—the nuns taught us that, and we worked a beautiful set of

vestments for the priest who said Mass in our church.”

“And what did you learn besides?”

“To read and write, and the Catechism.”

“And have you read many pretty books?”

“No, signora; only the 'Lives of the Saints.'”

“Where was this convent?—was it near Loretto, or Jesi, or Macerata?”

“I do not know, signora.”

“You do not know!—was it very far off, then?”

“Not very, signora; it took four hours to go there from Ancona in a

carriage. I remained ten years; I never went out all the time, and I

returned home the same way that I went.”

During this dialogue her voice never changed in its monotonous

intonation, with the unvarying “signora” at every sentence, which

Italian convent girls are so remarkable for bestowing; when my uncle

walked into the drawing-room with a young Oxonian, the son of a very

old friend, who had unexpectedly arrived to take the steamer for Greece

on an eastern tour.

We jumped up in delight and shook hands so heartily, that I fear

the _Contessa_ was quite scandalized; but for a few minutes we were

too much taken up with our countryman to think of her. When calmness

was restored, and she rose to take leave, I perceived, to my great

amusement, that although the daughter's eyelids were drooping as

before, she was busy, beneath their long lashes, in taking a survey

of the handsome young stranger, although not the movement of a muscle

in the smooth expressionless face was perceptible; neither did she

evince any apparent consciousness of all that was going on, as, meekly

following her mother, she curtseyed herself out of the room.

It is certainly extraordinary how, after this penitential discipline,

the instant they are married, these demure little damsels acquire

the full use of their visual organs, and bring all their latent

fire into play. Indeed, the sudden transition from an awkward,

silent, ill-dressed girl, such as I have described, into an elegant,

self-possessed, talkative woman, is so wonderful as only to be credited

by those who daily witness the metamorphosis effected in Italy by the

dignity and enfranchisement of matrimony.

Persons desirous of a more extended scale of instruction for their

daughters, and who are, at the same time, hostile to the Sacré Cœur,

find themselves in great perplexity. The experiment has been tried

by one or two families of sending them into Tuscany, where there are

several institutions for female education, conducted on comparatively

liberal principles; but the distance, the danger and expense of the

journey, were all such serious drawbacks, that the example found few

imitators. The manners of the country, and, it must be added, the

incapacity of the mothers for the task, render it inexpedient to bring

up girls at home; so that, after much talking and deliberation, nine

fathers out of ten resign themselves to do as their fathers did before

them, and deposit their daughters in the old convents, out of harm's

way, for half a score of years at least.

It must be confessed, they have enough to occupy them as to the means

of educating their sons, when they have the bad taste not to confide

them to the Jesuits. Sometimes they send them to Pisa or Sienna in

Tuscany, at which last there used to be a college of some eminence,

conducted on moderate principles by the Padri Scolopj; but of late

years abuses have crept in, and it has greatly degenerated. Others,

again, engage an abbé or tutor, for the first few years, and then place

them to complete their studies at the once celebrated university of

Bologna.

But this institution, like everything else in the Roman States, has

fallen into such decay, and its professors are under such restrictions,

that at the conclusion of his academical career, unless a youth has

more than average abilities, particularly if he belongs to the higher

classes, the general range of his attainments may be rated as beneath

mediocrity. Debarred by the prejudices of caste from entering any

profession but that of the Church, conscious that he will never have a

field on which to display his abilities, without stimulus to exertion

or prospects for the future, the young noble seems to resign himself

to the conviction that his safest course is to vegetate unthinking,

unquestioning, unknowing, and unknown.

Even the desire for distinction in arms, or the excitement of merely

holiday soldiering, parades, reviews, and a gay garrison life, so

common to most young men, cannot stir the dull waters of his patrician

existence; for there is no military career open to the pontifical

subjects, with the exception of the Guardia Nobile at Rome, which is

limited to a small number of the sons of the old nobility. The few

miserable regiments which compose the Pope's army are so low in the

scale of social estimation, that to say a man is only fit to become a

Papalino soldier is almost the grossest insult that can be passed upon

him.

The ranks, wholly composed of volunteers, there being no conscription,

are recruited from the dregs of the population, spies, quondam thieves,

and so forth. As for the officers, I know not whence they are procured,

never having been acquainted with a family owning to the discredit of

relationship with an individual thus engaged, although one or two, who

had scapegraces of sons, whose existence it was desirable to ignore,

were supposed to have sent them, by way of punishment, into the

service.

The ignorance of some of these young nobles on most subjects of

general information was perfectly startling. Many of them were

quite unacquainted with the nature of tenets which had rent Europe

asunder, with the geographical position of neighbouring countries, or

with the best-known historical facts. Not having access to any easy

literature, such as our magazines and miscellanies afford, owing to the

extraordinary limitations imposed upon the press, they had been left

without an inducement to read, or an opportunity of discovering their

own deficiency.

One or two anecdotes, the first of which I heard my cousins relate,

will prove there is no exaggeration in these remarks.

During the wild excitement of the early part of 1849, a youthful count,

glowing with new-born patriotism, confided to them one day that he and

all the _Gioventù_—that is, Young Ancona—had determined upon turning

Protestant, in order to get rid of the _preti_, and to conciliate

England. Presently a shade of embarrassment came over his face, and he

said, “Pardon me, but now I think of it, tell me, do the Protestants

believe in God?”

On one occasion, I was present when some conversation took place

before a youth fresh from Bologna, in which an allusion was made to

Cleopatra and the asp. “How can I know anything about these matters?”

he exclaimed; “I have never read the Bible!” Another time, I remember

hearing my uncle gravely asked, in reference to a journey he was

meditating, whether he meant to go by sea from Marseilles to Paris?

It was melancholy in the extreme to see the number of young men thus

idling away their lives, filling the caffès and casino, and subsisting

on a stipend that an English younger son would consider inadequate to

purchase gloves for a London season. The plan pursued is, to give each

son an apartment in the family residence, his dinner, and the allowance

of from ten to twelve dollars a month, which is to provide for his

dress, his breakfast, the theatre, and cigars.

How they contrived, with these limited means, to keep up the appearance

they did is perfectly inexplicable. They even seemed able to gratify

little harmless flights of fancy, such as coming out unexpectedly in

singular suits of Brobdignagian checks or startling green cut-aways,

which, with a pair of luxuriant whiskers, a hasty, determined walk,

and a peculiar flourish of the stick, were supposed to constitute

the faithful portraiture of an Englishman, than to resemble whom

there could be no greater privilege, so great was the Anglomania that

prevailed.

And now, I fancy, I hear the remark, “All this time you have been

describing the manners of the Italian nobility. What are their gentry

like—their middle classes?” Which inquiries shall be answered, as fully

as circumstances admit, in my next chapter.

The Englishwoman in Italy Impressions of life in the Roman states and Sardinia, during a ten years' residence · 第 4 / 35 章